Casting Warhammer 40k Parts using Sprue Goo

Simple mould making using silicone rubber & Oyumaru/Blue stuff and casting using Warhammer 40k sprues dissolved in acetone to make sprue goo.
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#Warhammer40k #MouldMaking #CastingParts

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Like, Share, Subscribe and Leave comments, it all helps out, cheers guys 🙂

[@LFTerrain]

@Miniature Hobbyist would you like to do a collab

[@valentin_bj7326]

Regards! First of all I Will tell you that I am from Argentina and I am using a translator so I apologize if there is any error of expression. I am a follower of yours and your videos seem very useful to me. I would like to know exactly what you have in the jar? What type of plastic do you use and also what do you dissolve it with? I would appreciate it if you could answer me, surely you have already said it in your videos but as I told you I am from Argentina and I do not understand english. Thank you and success

[@stevenstrnad4890]

Spread out a thin layer of PVA glue first over foam contact areas. Then you can put superglue over the PVA and it won't attack the foam. I have been doing this for over 30 years.

[@liesureleeminis8268]

Had no idea. Thanks!

[@higheyrie6176]

I have discovered the technique! I made a 2-part mold using oyumaru. Both surfaces should be flat so we can easily compress with a weight. To cast with spruegoo, i put small (very small) pinches of semisolid goo in the mold then brush with plastic glue. Tamiya airbrush cleaner or very thin sprue goo. The aim is to gradually build up goo on the surface of the mold. Estimate hm goo will meet when both parts of the mold meet. After joining the mold, apply a weight on top. I had a happy accident when a small amount of goo splured out the side which became my indicator when the goo has hardened enought to be separated from the mold. (suggest adding vents).Remember to be in a well ventilated space and wear protective equipmebt like masks, goggles and glove. Also, use a transparent mold (mine's still oyumaru) as you can judge if there are air bubbles trapped. Push down goo with lubricated tools to avoid sticking. Hopefully this page could make a vid based on my suggestion! 😃

[@homericteacher]

Low temp hot glue for your joint seams works great.

[@paintingbyminions8360]

Nice. I’ve been playing with the thermoplastic. Good to know the sprue goo doesn’t dissolve it. I must try now.

[@emrickazor2610]

Spru goo looks like a sci-fi dystopia meal.

[@geekfreak69]

Great idea

[@electricbill1778]

Using plasticine, and glue, looks like a really slow process, it's a lot easier to just use a glue gun. If you get one with an accurate nozzle, you can just squeeze the trigger, and lay down a thin bead where the foam meets the baseboard. Just takes a few seconds, so the foam doesn't have time to melt :)

[@puckerbutton7025]

is there a way to liquify the goo to make it pourable for recasting sort of the consistency of resin used for casting

[@FIRSTNAMELASTNAME-zt4kf]

How well does it harder cause some look a bit..... floppy.

[@garfieldwithissuez]

Now this is what I came here for!

[@j453]

Hey bud, I've been wondering. Is there a story behind all those bracelets you have?

[@yoosha9153]

About how long would this take to cure in a humid climate like florida?

[@MrNitrox91]

I think I'll just stick to greenstuff

[@vcxlll]

Why not call it sprooge rather than sprue goo

[@funoff3207]

The tapping does nothing

[@23nacho23]

How toxic is that melted plastic? You don’t wear gloves or a mask.

[@nivekian]

Mold, not Mould. You are making positives/ negatives, not fungal growths.

[@Farmerwal]

this video should be a lot shorter

[@HeWhistlesTunes]

I told y’all I’m working Summers. I want Christmas off. All of December and January off.

[@Holktube]

I'm putting out a request for Necron Warriors to Flayed Ones conversion with sprue goo, please!

[@ChaseDaOrk3767]

That'd be pretty to cool to see.

[@Exotac]

Blue stuff is actually the best for getting small detail out of what you're casting. The important thing is applying pressure. The more pressure you can apply to whatever you're trying to cast, the more the blue stuff will shape around the details. Also, it's easy to make sure the molds can come apart. When you make the initial mold, once you have the piece suitably pushed into it, press a couple (4 is a safe bet) indents into areas around the mold, but not close enough to actually impact the object in the mold itself. Wait for it to cure, and then create the second part of the mold by using additional blue stuff and pressing it on top of the first, making sure it is dense enough that some of it go into the indents you made before. The end result will be easy to pull apart because they are not merely flat against each other, and the indents will also give you the added benefit of guaranteeing that the two halves of the mold always line up.

[@darko-man8549]

I’ve also found, you get a better result but redoing the first side after doing the second. So you do side 1, then side 2 then side 1 again.

[@harronroyer681]

I've found the best way for me with blue stuff mold is to use a Lego border and push mold...

[@Primal2229]

I definitely advise against using acetone with blue stuff. I used it once just to clean some uncured resin since I already had a bit on a q tip already and yeah it cleaned it great no question there. The downside is that the acetone changed it chemically because I had to cut off a few mil of the area I cleaned because it was sticky and malleable. Weeks later that chunk was still tacky soft rubber.

[@whiskymylove]

Ive beem thinking. Couldnt you use a bottle cap while casting the tires, pushing it into the center of your mold, that way there not solid all the way through and you use lesst sprue goo?

[@jasonstatham5879]

i wonder how well this would work in a vacuum chamber if that would get rid of some of the bubbles?

[@hypo7351]

I think a pressure chamber would be better if he actually let the molds in until they dried. It takes less time to create a vacuum. If he were to use a vacuum chamber on the resin and then a pressure pot on the poet gooey spruey stuff, that would probably result in the best looking parts

[@stevenstrnad4890]

@@hypo7351 The pressure pot will make a better cast, BUT since the material is so thick, both pressure and vacuum won't work as good as if a liquid resin was poured into the mold.

[@CeeJayThe13th]

@@stevenstrnad4890 I wonder if you "de-gassed" it (so to speak) in a vacuum chamber and then put the casting into a pressure pot if you would get cleaner results. However, all of that kinda defeats the purpose of this being something that you can do basically for free and would remove the rough and ready, salvaged parts look that MH is generally looking for in his crafting.

[@hypo7351]

@@stevenstrnad4890 Well yeah, I was meaning it would be the best if he kept using the sprue stuff. If he used resin then it would be a whole lot better

[@stevenstrnad4890]

@@CeeJayThe13th it could, it just wonder if degassing would hasten the cure time since it would be sucking out the VOC acetone from the he goo.

[@danielbergholtz5761]

You use acetone to make the goo, correct? Does the silicone mould get damaged from the acetone in the goo? Was planning on buying some ready made moulds to try using the goo but it would be pretty sad if they melted away or got warped or something.

[@charleyedwards2121]

actually i found using a stronger solvent (laquer thinner) makes the spru goo even runnier! still get lots of bubbles tho

[@richardlucas-white8136]

Hey my friend hope your keeping well ! Great video can you include links for items in the US Amazon store please I’m from London but now live in Atlanta

[@MrDraegun]

How long would you recommend leaving spruegoo in a bluestuff mold before trying to remove it? An casting a normal base and don't want to try too early!

[@CeeJayThe13th]

So, I meant to mention this for like a year but the thing I think is neat about the tires (or tyres, whichever you like) made from the sprue goo is that they look like solid tires like you would see on forklifts and such like. Those tend to get chunks knocked out of them (depending on the environment they're used in) and solid tires seem more like something that an Ork might use rather than the more complicated pneumatic tires that we actually use on modern vehicles. Solid tires do kinda suck on soft ground so the Orks might wanna watch out for that lol

[@SquareViking]

They just believe that the tires are light enough to skate over mud and the problem's solved!

[@CeeJayThe13th]

@@SquareViking I believed that before but I guess I didn't believe hard enough.

[@braliusprimero4785]

And since vibration helps to get rid of the bubbles why not puting the mold over a working washing machine and see how it ends haha

[@dlwilhelmdw]

I do that on the dryer when I resin cast.

[@chrissyross]

For the blue stuff Oyamaru, you can get incredible detail. Heat it up and place it in a "box" either lego structure or something that confines the space. Apply a release agent to the part you wish to recast for the first "side" (I use coconut oil spray). Apply the part to the blue stuff in the box and add sizeable dimples outwith the area so when you press together the second part it is easier to release. Let it set. Once its set apply a release agent to the blue stuff and part that is in your box. Apply the second "side" worth of blue stuff and make sure it has been applied with sufficient pressure. Once its set prize apart and you should have your bit recast pretty damn well. I use it for non-40k items to fix toys etc and the detail is fine.

[@CeeJayThe13th]

I don't really have anything to add yet but I'm commenting for the algorithm!

[@derGhebbet]

For The Algorithm!

[@CeeJayThe13th]

Am I the only one who every time they see aluminum foil being wadded up they imagine it against their fillings in their teeth? Or am I the only old person who still has the fillings that react to it?

[@carlosbarker8301]

Great video boss, casting isn't something I've had much practice with. This is vary informative.

[@andrewashby70]

Brilliant video, one tip I have is to use the pots of cheap Wilko's version of Lego to build casting chambers, I have a couple of pots so I'm not using my good Lego and I use a silicone/cornflower mix to make my molds.

[@XyerDark]

xps and even the expanded variant are still types of styrene, meaning if you use a type of glue containing acetone you might melt it just as you would with sprue, to check if that's the case, you can look for the recycling symbol surrounding a 6 (or 06) with a PS underneath it. This also means any cup with this symbol cannot be used to store acetone or cement glues as they will melt, and likely make a mess of your table.

[@pigcatapult]

Some of the bubbles from offgassing could be patched up with green stuff just fine, right? Although I guess that'd bump up the price. Maybe more sprue goo applied with a toothpick?

[@JonMendenhall]

Definitely going to try and make some Necromunda terrain with this technique.

[@steve8846]

i mean. if you're paying $40 for silicone to make moulds with you might as well shell out another $40 for some epoxy resin to make actually nice replications. the holes you get in the copy from the bubbles are cool for wasteland environmental pieces but not really much else.

[@walkerawhite4698]

I've gotten thinner, more liquid, sprue-goo when using 50/50 Acetone and Ethyl Acetate (MEK Substitute). But I'm definitely gonna try and cast up some molds soon like this to see if I can get a smooth cast that way.

[@veritech4884]

Share your results when you do! That sounds cool as heck

[@clarkwalter7170]

Do you think its possible to make torso and legs for cadian with this technic ? Got so many bits of guard ( arm head gun and accessory) and want to make more guy with recycling sprue :)

[@XmortoxX1990]

I'm 100% doing this at some pint. Even if I mess up and the part I casted is not looking good, I can either turn it back to Goo or just use for terrain, bases or kitbashing.

[@Seoz]

I wonder about the results. I've made few casts like this but they took very long to be hard enough to remove from mold. But the outcome is pretty interesting :)

[@Phoenix8492]

I’m sure as well that the beauty of this technique might be that should you completely screw up trying to mold something with sprue goo, then back into the acetone it goes!

[@NoNameIsBest89]

My sprue goo didnt come out like yours. Mine looks like you took some beans and blended them up to make a very liquid likr paste. How did you get your goo to be more solid and able to hold its shape to them be able to be cast?

[@shinchan6866]

Did you test how Blue-Stuff (from Greenstuffworld) reacts to your Oozy mixture?

[@travisjohnson622]

What is the brand name on the liquid silicone you used to make the mold? Hard to see the labels. I'd like to pick some up on ebay soon.

[@miafillene4396]

I have seen people use legos to create the box instead of foam styrene. Nice tight seal and ready made indents.

[@joshuaedley5191]

Vary interesting

[@FIRSTNAMELASTNAME-zt4kf]

If you were to let it dry a bit could you use it in a similar way to green stuff for like sandbags and such.

[@FIRSTNAMELASTNAME-zt4kf]

Could I do this with ooh like say miliput or something like that and oh say have a better detailed model?

[@nonamed9613]

The comment to get you out there. A bit late because Youtibe decided to just not notify me, again.

[@johnporten8303]

Great video. Unleash your imagination

[@fancifuldevices]

Man you must go through a lot of acetone. I love watching you make these and I love your happy voice.

[@thelittlestgiant]

Your work is seriously underrated. You deserve a lot more KZbin traffic. This man is a hero! True greenskins love to recycle. 😉

[@pablocamargo8744]

GW will love this video. 😀😊👍

[@GallonMilkProductions]

Alternative for siding: legos! That's what us sculptors do! Use mold release for easier release. Also this allows two part moulds

[@WeyounLP]

Hey MH, have you ever tried heating up the goo-stuff after you used acetone? It might make them easier to put into the molds?

[@mango7514]

Fun times

[@midnightflare9879]

Building with sprue goo is probably the most ork thing a player can ever do

[@theycallmepiccolo9985]

Hadn't you already got a slap on the wrist for doing this?

[@gregwing7355]

Do you need some sort of mold release to help get the cast out of silicon molds

[@andrevandervlies5700]

Nice! Not for every style of build, but the bubbled texture has its charms.

[@ДмитрийТишков-ц4х]

хороший результат! есть места которые поцеловал Нургл. но это хороший опыт. попробуйте в полусфере сделать верх гриба. лес из грибов - это хорошо.

[@ticctacc609]

translation from my basic school level understanding of russian: good resolution! it is places which Nurgle kissed. but that's good experience. try to do it with top mushroom hemisphere. mushroom forest. that is good so I'm assuming he is interested in a mushroom forest model, maybe you might be able to understand now

[@DicePunk]

I see the term "sprue goo" is catching on!

[@hypo7351]

If you don’t have a pressure pit already, it might be a good idea to get one

[@CeeJayThe13th]

I wonder if it would even help much with the ooey gooey spruey stuff

[@Nagytika]

1:04 The forbidden nutella

[@0LordZarfax0]

how do you get thick sprue goo to dry out

[@bigginsmcsauce]

And it tastes great too!

[@artepresepialesalomone]

Really nice video!

[@Slurgical_3D_Terrain_Channel]

Mmmm….grey Nutella…….

[@BodyGuardOfLies1]

Never say "so yeah" ever again.

[@greenmurray7919]

Very impressive!

[@ThatFrench]

Forbidden Nutela

[@wireworks616]

Just started my own sprue goo jar. Am using sprue goo to fill in seams and open cracks in my model builds. Great idea.👍👍👍👍👍

[@echtvergoldet]

Have you experimented with heating the sprue goo yet? I think about a way to liquify the sprue goo even more, which would eliminate at least some of the bubbley surface I would imagine.

[@idontwanttopickone]

I don't think GW has anything to worry about here. Unless you can work out how to remove all the bubbles and make it actually dry all the way through (I imagine there is acetone trapped inside based on how it appeared to form a shell) then it's only going to be good for making flexible volcanic rocks.

[@nonchip]

i wonder if there's a mold material that the acetone can actually soak through (without destroying it) to prevent those bubbles by giving the acetone vapours at the bottom somewhere to go

[@SDJW2016]

Hows Steve?

[@ticctacc609]

legendary

[@theministryofminiatures]

Great video, would this work with Hirst moulds?

[@higheyrie6176]

I'm hoping somebody will come up with method on how to decrease the viscosity of spruegoo.

[@darylliguid6724]

So yeah

[@scottbradley379]

For the time involved and the quality I'd rather just save up for a 3d printer.

[@NoNameIsBest89]

This is exactly what Ive been looking for! Thank you

[@fireanduril]

Why do you no longer utilise lego? It's reusable, even if you do lose some silicone.

[@sfchronicfsmeh5312]

Ah I see you're playing Valheim in the background! Good man!

[@vladiladstagueule36]

We can use lot of plastic around us !! I Fu******* luve it !!

[@charleyedwards2121]

ive been experimenting with sprue goo :) thanks for turning me onto such a cool idea

[@janeblogs324]

Don't leave the paper on, the acetone has to evaporate to reharden the abs

[@valentin_bj7326]

Regards! First of all I Will tell you that I am from Argentina and I am using a translator so I apologize if there is any error of expression. I am a follower of yours and your videos seem very useful to me. I would like to know exactly what you have in the jar? What type of plastic do you use and also what do you dissolve it with? I would appreciate it if you could answer me, surely you have already said it in your videos but as I told you I am from Argentina and I do not understand english. Thank you and success

[@PLASMAMATE]

It's spruces melted in acetone : spruces are made from the same plastics that game workshop uses to make their Warhammer figurines.

[@zackcook5123]

Absolutely cracking man, you are truly a mad genius!

[@enriquel2959]

Never thought of using sprues in this way :). Have you ever considered using a pressure pot to get rid of the bubbles?

[@Krasher247]

you need a vacuum chamber not a pressure pot to remove the bubbles... ;)

[@Dwilson1282]

I just stumbled onto this channel! What’s in the jar? Does this work with resin or just plastic?

[@echtvergoldet]

I know, your comment is old. Anyways: in the jar is left over sprue plastic with acetone. It wouldn't work with resin though. That resin is already activated and won't dissolve in the acetone the way the plastic does.

[@Matt-md5yt]

Sweet video today my man

[@markgnepper5636]

Great stuff friend 👏 👍

[@mariahhusted3274]

Amazing

[@Blazinter]

Honestly, the usefulness of this sprue goo would be way too beyond perfection if they didn't leave so much air bubbles

[@ParryHisParry]

Yeah I wish there was some way to seriously reduce them

[@johnphillips5965]

@@ParryHisParry using a pressure chamber would probably do wonders

[@idontwanttopickone]

​@@johnphillips5965 I think it's too thick and forms a thin shell too quickly for a pressure chamber to help. You can see where he stretches it into thin strands (around 12:45 - 13:00 ) that it starts to dry out almost instantly and then becomes very difficult to mix back in. So it likely wouldn't allow for the bubbles to escape through the material like resin or silicone would. It also appears to stay very liquid in the middle as acetone is probably trapped inside once the shell is formed. I wouldn't be surprised if the bubbles are partially from asotone getting caught between the mould and the goo. I have made moulds with blue stuff and 2 part epoxy putty (which would probably be a similar comparison). You can get the most bubbles out of that by keeping moulds small and thin, and pressing down on it with all your strength. But even then you still get the odd bubble. But it's a lot easier to press down on putty than it is this goo, as putty is thicker and appears easier to handle in the first place. Still interesting to see what can be done with sprues.

[@HeWhistlesTunes]

I make money off the summer crowd.

[@pingASS_]

Use hotglue for the styrene! Edit: you said you usually do... 😂