Caterpillar D2

[@clydebalcom8252]

Every step of this rebuild is so fascinating.

[@johnbarham7718]

You do yourself an injustice when you say "Thank you for your patience" Your films are brilliant. You explain VERY well how and why you measure, check and recheck everything. Thank you for very instructional films.

[@Thunderstixx77]

I don't comment often, but I really enjoy watching your work on your various projects and love the detail oriented method that you use to make certain that your work is done correctly. I also like your humour, it's filled with the Midwestern values I grew up with a couple hundred miles from where you are. At which point I would add that I moved away from the snow and cold for the heat of Texas. We all know that you can't shovel heat !!! Keep up the great work !!!

[@michaelbaumgardner2530]

The diesel engine fun time hour...Lol...that's original...👍👍

[@chrisskelhorn5727]

Yes, that was good! And delivered with a straight face! :-)

[@michaelbaumgardner2530]

@@chrisskelhorn5727 I think the straight face is what got me...lmao had to watch 3 times.!!!

[@danielburke8350]

I think it's remarkable that somehow you manage to work a full-time day job, spend all your spare time working on the farm or on these tractors, and yet still somehow produce and edit videos and upload them. There must be more than 24 hours in your days!

[@billjohnson9343]

Squatch253 Your doing us a huge favor in recording, editing and posting these videos for our entertainment. If someone doesn’t like it, no one is forcing them to watch... Never let impatient clickers stir you up, keep up all the great work. Love this series!!

[@scruffy6151]

The way you are checking all the pieces to make sure they are with in specs is a joy to watch. The information helps everybody watching to understand the important of checking the specs as part of the rebuild. Waiting for the next video and lessons on this rebuild. Thank you for all the work you put into making these video's for all to watch.

[@lukestrasser]

Squatch, I didn't make it past the intro without cracking up! Some keyboard warriors and high and mighty race engine perfectionists may be appalled by the use of plastigauge but they would also be equally appalled by the maximum permissible wear and out of round that's permitted in the manual. On a slow turning large clearance engine such as this the plastigauge check is more of a sanity check than anything, this is a slow turning low output (in terms of power per unit displacement) engine, not a 500 cubic inch 10,500 rpm pro stock engine. However your attention to every detail that may be infuriating or boring to some, I find it therapeutic. I'm also the type to take pages and pages of notes when building or assembling engines, those notes either get filed away for future reference or go with the engine when its sold. Someone in 2119 will appreciate this when they want to show their friends the rebuild of their Cat D2 5J1113 from 100 years prior. Have a great weekend, I'm going to watch the video you recommended, and I can assure you, I don't ever tire of airplanes, especially the older ones and war birds, to include cold war aircraft. If you've ever seen footage of B52s unceremoniously being dismantled in a guillotine it's painful to watch. Back in 2015 I had the experience of dropping off a fantastic aircraft to Davis Monthan AFB better known as the Boneyard. It was a P-3C Bureau number (or BuNo) 157319. It was an aircraft accepted in May of 1970 and had served admirably during the last 20 years of the Cold War and spent it's last few years finding drug smugglers. It was one of my favorite P-3's I ever served on and after recording a lifetime total of just under 26,000 flight hours, the flight to the Boneyard would be it's last flight as it was slated as a parts and reclamation bird, not a long term storage or resale bird. It was a bittersweet moment as the flight there marked the end of a 7 month deployment, but felt an awful lot like bringing your favorite dog to the vet to be put down. I wish that old 157319 could talk as I'm sure it would have great stories to tell, from carrying nuclear depth bombs, to tracking Soviet Submarines and even time spent in thr Vietnam war, it admirably carried it's crews and executed missions for 45 years. Hope you're having an excellent weekend, take care!

[@barrywhitley2535]

Squatch 253. Excellent video as usual. You are fastidious in your work, a true craftsman. That plasta gauge is a good idea. Old school, we used to ‘lead’ the bearings. Squeeze a piece of lead wire and measure it with a mic.

[@allanmain5666]

Thanks for these videos. It's helping this carpenter to understand my Caterpillar 955H. I paid 10 grand for it, and drove it 2 miles toward my property when I had trouble. I really need to familiarize myself with the workings of these engines.

[@MichaelTJD60]

I admire your precision and your attentiveness to the small details like clearances. People don't realize it, but those small clearances make a world of difference when it comes to the final assembly of the engine...and will greatly impact how the engine runs (and how long the rebuild lasts). I've seen plenty of "rebuilt" engines where the "mechanic" on the job didn't check to make sure clearances were within spec, and ended up with a knocking or vibrating engine once it was all re-assembled. In the near future I will be rebuilding the engine in my grandfather's John Deere 60 two-cylinder tractor and will be sure to pay close attention to the small details...on an engine with 10,000+ hours of wear, one rebuild, and 30+ years of sitting out in the elements, God knows what surprises await me when I tear that engine apart.

[@starflite3]

Another great video. The only thing that made me queasy about this video was watching you walk around the crank standing on its end on a concrete floor. I can almost guarantee you if that were me I would have bumped it and knocked it over.

[@junglejonny1000]

It should probably be noted for the viewers even though it wasn't said in the video that the book would say that you should not put oil on the back of the bearings because that would take up part of the gap of the oil clearance and when the oil clearance is like half the thickness of a hair, that gap is critical. It should also be said that you should not put oil or assembly lube on the crank before you do the plasti-gauge because it takes up the clearance and won't give you a correct reading. You are an amazing technician. Can't wait to see that beast running.

[@carp614]

Your explanation of clearance, influence of gravity, and checking rods versus mains was really helpful to this amateur. Thank you.

[@davidpierce3386]

I love the simple design of the oil screw comcept. Such a simple idea to drag the oil back into the circuit and remove the drag of the rubber of the oil seal.

[@paulmanson253]

Back in the late 60s there was a "Say Smoky" column in one of the monthly mags. Smoky Yunick responded to a letter,and stated a number of GM(I think) cranks with scrolls cut, had been computer programmed machined ,someone got careless and the threading was the wrong direction. Oil everywhere on a bunch of warranty engines. Oops. Normally apparently it works great until the clearances get just a wee bit too big. But yes an elegant solution.

[@jacquesblaque7728]

BMC used this sort of "Archimedes screw" seal on ~1 liter engines since the '30s. Worked great on the 948 cc Sprite I raced, FWIW.

[@paulmanson253]

@@jacquesblaque7728 My previous tablet crashed no warning . Otherwise I could send you a pretty darn decent document that not only covered the history of Austin/Morris/BMC engines that also included reminisces as well as important measurements and criteria for such things as just what turned out to be excessive clearances for the screw to work. One of much in the memory that is unretrievable. I can only say that such a thing is out there if you wish to do homework to find such.

[@jacquesblaque7728]

I don't muck about with tablets. Prescription meds okay. My point was, and is: this sort of main-bearing seal was in use, and doing quite nicely, thank you, well before Cat used it on diesels. FWIW Archimedes screws are used widely in pumping Dutch dewatering canals, powered by diesels., augmenting windmills.

[@paulmanson253]

You know,given decades of hard use,"rode hard and put away wet" ,further hard use at the end of its working life likely with little maintenance,then parked neglected outdoors for God knows how long, gallons of water in the block,hard frosts,critters,whatever else, it just makes sense to meticulously measure absolutely everything. It really is a tribute to the designers they came up with such a machine . Overbuilt by modern standards ? Maybe,almost certainly. But after all that,that Plastigauge being out what,a thou from original spec,no worrisome runout either end of the crank ? Wow,just wow. First started watching because of the Minneapolis Moline. Still looking forward to that,but the Cat episodes sure have been interesting. All the best.

[@machinistbytrade]

Attention to detail is critical! As a machinist very familiar with engine specs & tolerances, there's a saying...whats worse than not properly measuring is going back to tear it apart when the unit fails because specs weren't right at assembly!

[@digitalrailroader]

Nobody is faulting you for being absolutely thorough with this engine build; seeing as brand new parts are extremely hard to come by. You said yourself that you likely got the very last D3400 cylinder liners that were in the entire Caterpillar parts system. Those NOS cam bearings you squirreled away into your “parts warehouse” are likely made of .999% pure unobtainium. And we all want to see 1113 run for years to come.

[@tractorhyatt7044]

You sure know your stuff! Thank you Squatch! 🚜👍

[@TheRebelOne.]

Everyday is a learning day. Putting plastigauge on the undeside of the crank for rod clearence checks is new to me! Makes complete sence once you described it...👍

[@robertmailhos8159]

You are that old cat,s best friend any body else who knows thank,s for bringing that classic back to life will.be looking forward to the video when you fire her up.😊😁😁😃😄👍😀😎

[@leoashrae4199]

Wow! I have never been that lucky to find an old used crank in such good shape. I could do a story about my search for a useable crank for an Oliver 70. I'd call it, "A quest that failed".

[@leoashrae4199]

@@squatch253 Many thanks for the reply. For some reason I have assumed that a big company like CAT would always have better parts availability than a smaller company like Oliver. I can tell you that finding parts for the later Olivers and Whites, which used Waukesha and Perkins engines, is MUCH easier than parts for the engines that were Oliver - built. I guess all good things must come to an end... some sooner than others. Keep up the good work!

[@joelknierim1456]

I've never done a full engine rebuild, or observed it- very good information! One of these days I'm going to have to do an engine rebuild on my Farmall H and I'll be a bit more prepared. Thanks for the systematic info and the explanation along the way.

[@garyfeltus9801]

Love your videos. You could do an online class with your video. I don't find them boring at all. Thanks for sharing.

[@wsbrand]

I like your attention to detail. Nicely done.

[@charlesward8196]

Seeing the Plast-I-gage took me back 50 years to working on the family Ford Galaxy 100k engine overhaul with my Dad who was an aircraft mechanic/instructor at SFO for United Air Lines. He had us doing the measurements on the crankshaft as we were putting it back together. Sometimes analog is better than digital.

[@bruceb3786]

Inside and outside mics show you what it should be, but plastigage shows you what it Actually is. Great informative video. (cleaning the oil ports with gun stuff, the scrolling rear "seal", etc). WOW, huh? Only the Cat design engineers knew as much. Thank you !!

[@bigDH123]

I'm guessing that thing will run better than it did right out of the factory.

[@timstouder5149]

Couldn't have got a better crank if you time traveled back & got it brand new

[@alistairpowers8129]

Another very interesting video, thank you for posting

[@evankibbe590]

Squatch i understand the crank run out check is a very necessary check because way back in 82 i put a big block Chevy together in a hurry and didn't check every thing. And it ran but not right. I done this in Louisiana and when I got it home to Iowa it failed so i had to start over . The reason being the machine shop that turned and polished my crank had turned the mains .020 off center and I didn't check it because I was in a hurry. A major mistake on my part. So I can appreciate your attention to detail. Because anyone wanting to learn how to build a engine is going to learn how to do right here . Thank you very much for that.😊😊😊😊👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@jamesanderton344]

Built several competition engines with Plastigage. That “ wind the oil back into the engine” design was common in British car engines too in the 1950s and earlier. Great stuff and fun to watch.

[@claysmagicalland9097]

Nice work, Holmes.

[@aussiedazvk4djh889]

Hay Squatchy. It sounds like the old engine was only just run in. 👍🙂

[@GeminiWoods]

Good stuff, man. Watching this is almost therapeutic. How I am when I'm working on computers and server racks in my spare time.

[@scottgm321]

Thank you for the time you take to teach us and make these videos for us.

[@bobferranti5222]

I've always used plasti-gage on engine rebuilds and I find it much faster and easier to use than trying to get accurate measurements with calipers. I've assembled hundreds of engines that way and never had a issue. I commend you on your diligence and accuracy in building this engine.

[@danmcleod7365]

Nice simple explanation of how to do it right. Keep them coming.

[@duanequam7709]

One step closer. Can't wait for it's first run. Will mean alot more seeing it assembled. Great video again!!

[@shifty4277]

Dang it Squatch! Keeping us in suspense again! 😬

[@KennyKizzleRustyNutzRanch]

Ok, I've really got to up my game. I feel so inadequate when listening to my opening statement! Come to think of it, I feel inadequate when looking at your entire process! Ha ha ha. Looks real good - could eat off that thing inside it is so clean. The rifle cleaning kit is what I thought would work well for cleaning oil galleys as well. The flexible wire brushes are great for it, too. Good call (actually I think I asked you about that some time ago). I am kind of at a standstill right now with the H. Waiting to go down to my cousin's shop to hot-tank the trans casing, clutch housing, axles housings, etc. I'll also be cleaning all of the parts in a solvent bath (parts washer).. That should help everything go back together nice and clean. Won't be able to do that until December, though. Until then, I am staying tuned and hope to see some more good progress.

[@KennyKizzleRustyNutzRanch]

@@squatch253 I definitely have had my share of surprises, not to mention a couple of "woopsies". Ha ha. We all enjoy watching your stuff (and at this point I don't feel so bad only having one thing going at a time)! It is like a little treasure hunt when you open these things up - except with treasure it usually increases the size of your wallet. These tractors have a way of decreasing the size! There are a couple things I can think of off the top of my head, but nothing real critical at this stage. Keep me in the loop as well. I have some extra gear sets sitting here so if you open that spare trans up and see it is worse of than yours, let me know. We'll keep making progress (although this cold weather doesn't help any)... Until the next video..

[@bruceferrero8178]

So where do the old beer cans go?

[@ajnonameajnoname7173]

Very good video makes understanding for us people who don't know anything about it much more clear and why things are done good video

[@PRRGG1]

And as always, I learned something with this visit!

[@rock.doctor]

Funny watching you go through the measurements...i teach a small engines class and we spend a couple days doing this and the kids hate it but it is so important. I make them go though everything and make me a pass/fail data chart for the whole engine. :)

[@billjohnson9343]

Someday those students will look back and realize why that’s important . Probably after they go through a failure event... lol

[@brianmorrow6355]

Toby, I'm so glad to see someone who knows and does everything right. Your explanations are perfect. I thought my ol man was too particular but the truth is I'm the same way after some failure I finally understand why.

[@MalcOfLincoln]

100% agree 😊😊👍

[@stevezwemer1262]

Appreciate the details on the plasti-gauge. Heard of it many times. Never knew exactly how to use it. Lol. Excellent video as always Thank you

[@bobcrone6151]

Steve Zwemer Same. Always heard about it but never understood how it worked. Never really knew about the wax I guess. Makes perfect sense now. Also not utilizing it on the gravity side. Totally makes sense now! Thx Squatch! Excellent!!!

[@thomasphilyaw8593]

Again excellent video and great to see everything is checking out with the clearances.

[@Amyj78]

I can't wait to here this engine start for the first time

[@uncle_moose]

Like what i see. Educational and fun.

[@joezaloga]

And I thank you for sharing your knowledge

[@bobpaterson1845]

Lovin these videos so much information that can be used on any engine rebuild 💪💪

[@mikemilburn7823]

Excellent video, your explanations are so easy to understand and well presented, good work as always.

[@jenniferwhitewolf3784]

nice to see correct detailed procedures.👍

[@philipstreechon4523]

Hi like all the mesurements

[@SPEEDOFDOG]

Always very well explained. Very useful information as well. I learn something with every video. Thank you.

[@charlescastle5566]

Looks like that one will be a good runner. Keep up the good work.

[@morgansword]

Not that you would ever sell it as you collect, not sell them, but if someone were curious as to condition... your record skills outweigh anyone else that I have witnessed! I used to put engines together and considered my own work commendable... not now as you don't have to count on memory, its in "lead and white"/lol. I did good work or they were so good in first place that they lived because of it, in any event, no failures. I did have a engine come back and it only took a few minutes to prove it wasn't mine. I put my initials on every freeze plug and used one of those heat sensors that tells you if the block has been run hot. I made the owner stay for a few minutes and walked him over to a block I had finished and just went ahead and knocked out two freeze plugs in casual conversation and pulled them sideways out so I could reuse if had to but what ever I worked on I had plenty of plugs in the plug box and pre signed. then walked over to his and knocked out a freeze plug and guess what, my name wasn't on the plug and the serial no., wasn't in my record book as I kept those so this couldn't happen to me. I had heard of it so just covered my own butt. The guy was white hot and he was apologizing as he was under the microscope now. I didn't have to make good on that engine cause it wasn't mine but I did build it and it set us straight. He was my best advertisement I ever had/lol

[@shaneholst6940]

Action-packed ha ha and crazy yes you are but we are all a little bit crazy!!👍

[@northstar2007]

thanks for explaining the plastigauge!

[@pethoviejo]

That was fun. Thanks for sharing.

[@reedbooth543]

Great vid. Learning a lot on rebuild

[@bsalightning69]

I had to do the same thing on my old BSA motorcycle. Many people don't do this on old engines and wind up grenading them...

[@bcbloc02]

All looking good so far!!

[@richardwestwell4902]

'Monkey Brain?" I don't think so. More like a meticulous engineers brain to me. Good job.

[@lewiemcneely9143]

2nd this!

[@craigh4677]

@@lewiemcneely9143 3rd this! haha

[@KW-qt6df]

Thank you for the video keep them coming!!! You are probably doing a better job on that engine then when they built it brand new 👍👍

[@thomasmarion3209]

Can't wait keep them coming👍👍👍

[@dixiemae5042]

So interesting these old cat motors

[@volvoguy76]

Thanks as always! Great stuff.

[@tvoyds7035]

I love the specs! I also really like how you made a bible for the D2. Do you do that for ever build?

[@retireddriver16]

Yep A brand new D2 coming soon

[@rolandtamaccio3285]

,,, like, the crank pushed forward for final torque on the thrust cap .

[@joelmollenkopf3767]

Excellent

[@rickyjessome4359]

Great video!

[@JJ-jv1gu]

Hey Yankiee FANTASTIC MOTION PICTURE

[@thefixerofbrokenstuff]

Do you all boys plastigauge with a little sewing machine oil on the shells, or do you wipe them dry? I know you have a little between the shells and block, but I mean between the crank and shell.

[@drifterdolittle67]

0:34 its at a area that travels slowly but has the most force on it

[@jankotze1959]

Super video

[@skylinefever]

I thought that to determine crank straightness, you had to put the first and last main bearing in V-blocks, spin it, and record runout with a dial bore gauge. In addition, runout had to be checked against the manual.

[@michellehoefer5922]

Thank you for the video.I'm no mechanic-Is an ''oil scroll" on a rear main bearing common?Just on a low rpm engine? Sorry, I just think thats something.

[@georgesherfick2444]

I don't know about you but I am too clumsy to store that clean and inspected crankshaft vertically on a concrete floor. I found myself wincing expecting it to fall over. :)

[@KC2DZB]

Squatch, I'm interested in what you did to prep the crank journals. Is that something you already did a video on?

[@KC2DZB]

Very good, thanks Squatch. I know from machine work that even new fine paper doesn't cut steel very quickly. Have you ever used the technique where you wrap the abrasive around the journal several times and work it back and forth with a long string?

[@HiwasseeRiver]

congrats!

[@barneyeckert9702]

When mix and matching parts old and new, taking a little extra time to check everything makes alot of sense. Someone keeps the oil and antifreeze up, you looking at a 50 year engine.

[@cambo1200]

What is that, like a .30-06 oil passage? 😉

[@wilsonlaidlaw]

Squatch, would it be possible to move a Cat with a failed main motor in an emergency, using the pony motor, albeit very slowly in first gear and in a straight line only?

[@iceblue72wot]

This channel needs a more accurate name. The CAT Professor. 👍👍👍 He needs a white professor's coat that matches as it stands written CATerpillar on his back. 😎

[@ryansmifh]

Stand next to Sr or Jr and you won’t think it’s inaccurate lol

[@rogermarshall8991]

Speaking of oil, & cleanliness. I've recently changed my brand of oil from standard. 15W-30 Quaker state to fully synthetic : Royal Purple. After doing some research & hopefully my Jeep wrangler is the last vehicle I plan to buy. For a daily & good. Reliable transportation. I couldn't believe the cleaning power of that stuff. After a bit over 1,000 miles it's. a blackish brown, because the block looks like new again. If they don't make a suitable oil for Diesel they should. Just a FYI for the folks stuck on the regular oil. My Jeep, had 52,000 miles on it when I got it. I checked, in almost 2 1/2 years I've put just over 3,000 on it. I believe I'll stay with Royal Purple & WIX filters. A Diesel application is truly where the High detergent level would shine. A freshly sealed engine is best for going to synthetic. A older engine the Synthetic likes to find weak spots & leaks. Mabe check & see if they make diesel engine compatible oil and maybe get a sponsor. I had no idea until I did some looking. I'd like to see your The D-2 passed down to your great grandkids.... Every little bit helps... Doing great I've used plastigage on all my engine builds & only 1 failure in 35+ years. Great video, every regular. Joe can follow that kind of info. Kinda old news to me but I've done it all my life. 👍👍

[@lukestrasser]

Roger, I'd recommend you head over to the site bobistheoilguy and do some reading. Nothing wrong with Royal Purple, it's serviceable oil, but more marketing than magic oil. You're likely spending money for purple dye and a feel good. Go check it out, do some reading, and make your own decision. If you really want to run a high end boutique oil, consider Red Line over Royal Purple. But the gods honest truth is that it doesn't much matter what you use with modern synthetic oils, Super Tech Synthetic is even great stuff.

[@JoeHynes284]

@@lukestrasser for sure. Safe for an engine, but all marketing

[@barrywhitley2535]

Squatch253. I have a question regarding the plasta gauge readings of the main bearing. If the service manual says clearance for No.1 bearing is .0055"- .012" and the plasta gauge reading is .006" with the crankshaft resting on the upper bearing, wouldn't that mean the clearance is actually .003" ?

[@barrywhitley2535]

@@squatch253 Got you now. Many thanks for the comprehensive explanation. I really enjoy your and seniors videos.

[@Michael-he7xn]

How do you make the decision whether or not to paint the inside of the block casting?

[@mattthescrapwhisperer]

What is your preference for quality oil for old diesel engines?

[@mattthescrapwhisperer]

@@squatch253, thanks!

[@seniorelectrician6831]

straight shot in torquing and front to rear pattern?

[@DOCTORDROTT]

Hello Squatch253 I have a fault on number 1 cylinder. It chuffs when you introduce fuel to that cylinder. Back off the injector nut it stops. It only does it when it fires. I supect ring or valve issue. The injector is as new, overhauled and tested . What do you think ?

[@DOCTORDROTT]

Its a Cat D2 3J

[@DOCTORDROTT]

@@squatch253 Thanks. I will look at that

[@nigeltheboss894]

How come you don't fit crank then fit pistons from the top ?

[@markhull1366]

Ain't nothing wrong with using plastigage. Always found it to be amazingly close to what I measured with the mics.

[@rockymini625]

A true American professional, working in a U.S.A. Caterpillar.

[@mikemcginley6309]

Do it right the first time seems like the best way. It may take more time now but you won't have to do it again.

[@wackowacko8931]

I have worked on a D2 5J that some relatives have. I was wondering if someone could answer a question about it. The fuel pressure on the gauge is almost non-existent when being spun over by the pony motor or on the rare occasion I can get it running. It take forever to start (1/2 hour running the pony) and doesn't have any power. I can't find any manual that has more than 1/2 a page on the lift/transfer pump and no diagrams to speak of. I'm assuming that the pressure relief valve needs to be shimmed, but again there is no information I can find on it and gaskets are not available. Is there a source of information that someone can recommend?

[@wackowacko8931]

@@squatch253 Thank you for your quick reply. I kind of figured that it would require complete removal and rebuild of the transfer pump tower.

[@workaholic5318]

Attention to detail never sank a ship.

[@raymondkoonce5827]

An ounce of prevention. Personally, I like the overkill.

[@paulmanson253]

Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.

[@pwaletzko]

You didn’t discuss the torque sequence.