How to grade a sewing pattern

  Рет қаралды 29,772

Catherine Sews

Catherine Sews

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер
@836dmar
@836dmar Жыл бұрын
I’m a guy and I typically draft WWII era/vintage style clothing. I learned a lot from this. Glad to see a basic classic type of grading. Thank you!
@leila1700
@leila1700 Ай бұрын
Do you sell the drafts you make? Do you have a website?
@836dmar
@836dmar Ай бұрын
@ no on both accounts, unfortunately. I’m a little old fashioned in that way. lol
@corirodriquez2889
@corirodriquez2889 11 ай бұрын
I have been a one person design, grading and construction business for 56 yrs now. This is how I grade using a manual grading machine. A Dario. I have all my notes etc. from fashion design schools, LA Trade Tech and HCC College (Hawaii) and just needed a refresher. You are extraordinarily talented and just a wonderful person. Your voice is more then pleasant and your simplicity is a key to life. I can’t thank you enough ❤ I am brainfarting over a raglan slv grading. Do you have a tutorial, my notes are ????? I know I can figure it out but I want someone else’s input. Your so amazing and really get it that I had to subscribe ❤ thank you 🌴
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews 11 ай бұрын
Thanks for the lovely comment. Send me an email at contactcatherinesews@gmail.com so I can share a sketch with you. I haven’t graded a raglan in years, but I think I still know how!
@lfuentes4098
@lfuentes4098 Ай бұрын
This refresher is great. I still have my 30 year old grading ruler. My notes are golden. The raglan would be great to see.😊
@SunnaLee
@SunnaLee 2 жыл бұрын
More pattern grading videos please! For knits! Advanced Pattern grading! This is so good!!
@robintheparttimesewer6798
@robintheparttimesewer6798 Жыл бұрын
This makes so much sense! I don’t think it’s ever been explained like this to me. I’ve saved this so that I can reference it. This KZbin makes everything so easy. No one wants to help me in real time in the middle of the night!
@SarahEkman
@SarahEkman Жыл бұрын
I think I’ll have to see this ten more times to be able to do it myself but thank you! You are great! Best whishes from Sarah in Sweden 😅
@blumenaue7590
@blumenaue7590 Жыл бұрын
I would need to rewatch this a few times. But, honestly this is so much easier then cutting the pattern in strips and splitting it 1/4” here, and 1/2” there.
@sarawelder1
@sarawelder1 6 ай бұрын
I may have to watch this 10 times till I really get it....
@lizann3058
@lizann3058 Ай бұрын
I'm lost already...
@Marie-mj6jb
@Marie-mj6jb 11 ай бұрын
Wow this is really helpful! This makes way more sense than any other video I’ve watched about grading! Thank you!!
@miragafni1
@miragafni1 6 ай бұрын
This was so helpful! I used to sort of wing it...Catherine, you're an exeptional teacher!
@AndrewEthans
@AndrewEthans 11 күн бұрын
Single most relaxing video I've watched in a while, and helpful. 😁
@Roarekter
@Roarekter 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you very much I took pattern grading in fashion college in my 3rd year. But I really didn't understand it then and I had a terrible time with fractions back then. over 20 years ago. grading and alterations have been a real challenge to me through the years in designing and making clothing for people. this video that you did here finally makes me understand this now. the classes dealt with pattern blocks where they split the pattern into blocks. and it was hard for me to understand at that time. I do have a 2 year associates degree in fashion design. but never worked in the industries of fashion designing. just making clothing for local clients.
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын
Your comment makes my day! I'm beyond happy if my tutorial helps you understand something that you learned 20 years ago! Cheers!
@moonchild6952
@moonchild6952 2 жыл бұрын
my story exactly.. :)
@christinebutcher300
@christinebutcher300 Жыл бұрын
Thanks Catherine . I am going to have to watch this a couple of times to get my head round it, but its definitely going to be so useful.
@mlandry491
@mlandry491 5 ай бұрын
so clever! i will have to watch again a few times to get it, but so much easier than measuring bit by bit all the way round
@barbaragill5703
@barbaragill5703 6 ай бұрын
This information is excellent. So glad I found you. I will be watching more so I can get a better understanding about the MATH part of it. You made it easier to get a better comprehension of understanding the increasing and decreasing of pattern sizes.
@ElenaThreadsWell
@ElenaThreadsWell 2 ай бұрын
This was very helpful. Especially seeing the directions in which the pattern moves. Thanks !
@vickiewilliams3259
@vickiewilliams3259 3 жыл бұрын
Loved this video. I've never seen this done before, but it makes perfect sense. Thanks!
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews 3 жыл бұрын
That's great to hear! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
@vernabohnert635
@vernabohnert635 2 жыл бұрын
Yes, more grading videos 🙏
@yoursewingteacher1729
@yoursewingteacher1729 3 жыл бұрын
You are just rocking these videos. So many new videos coming out. Thank you. I teach the kids how to do this, I will have them watch this video now. Thank you so much. 👍💜
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews 3 жыл бұрын
Oh, you're braver than I am! I sometimes do grading for my students but I haven't tried teaching them the process. It's so technical and tedious, and they're just itching to get onto the fun stuff. Thanks for watching as always (I know that no one will watch this video purely for entertainment, lol.)
@yoursewingteacher1729
@yoursewingteacher1729 3 жыл бұрын
@@CatherineSews It’s funny, I grade with mine and you drape. 😁
@ckim5134
@ckim5134 Жыл бұрын
Each time you did it I understood a little bit more. Still need to understand more.
@annefalloon7595
@annefalloon7595 Жыл бұрын
Thank you, such a cool technique. I would love to sew vintage patterns I find in thrift shops but they are rarely the right size. Now I can fly :)
@sbaumgartner9848
@sbaumgartner9848 Жыл бұрын
You did a good job of simplifying the process. People just have to remember to do it accurately for each style they have to know what standard sizes to use. There are a lot of standard sizes out there. Some things like darts are more complex to grade. If you look at a multi-sized patterns you will see this.
@thapelotlou1254
@thapelotlou1254 3 жыл бұрын
Also, thank you so much for this video, I've been searching for videos on how to grade and I couldn't find any, you're literally a life saver, thank you !!🥺🥰
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews 3 жыл бұрын
So glad to hear this! Thanks for finding my channel!!
@authenticbatman
@authenticbatman 3 жыл бұрын
Back to support you, Sister!
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews 3 жыл бұрын
Thank you my friend!
@denisestone9119
@denisestone9119 Жыл бұрын
That’s very clear, helpful directions. Thanks!
@ColleenMarble
@ColleenMarble Жыл бұрын
This is brilliant. Thank you. I'm making a jacket from Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 6, and I know right now the pattern will be too small for me, but the patterns are taken from extant garments, so there is only one size provided. This will help me to get the pattern closer to my size before making my first mockup. THANKS!
@GOdeg-kn2mc
@GOdeg-kn2mc Жыл бұрын
Wow, that is amazing. Once I understood the concept, that makes total sense. Thank you.
@patriciaingraldi4719
@patriciaingraldi4719 9 ай бұрын
You are such a pleasure to listen to and watch. I forgot how to grade and your tutorial brought it all back. I know it's going to be complicated because it's a jacket with many pieces 😣but 🤷🏼‍♀️. Thank you so much
@margaretttowler9404
@margaretttowler9404 Жыл бұрын
Loved this video, I found your channel a couple of weeks ago and have watched several. I subscribed as soon as I watched the first video.
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews Жыл бұрын
That's great to.hear, Margarett! So happy to have you on board!
@Luxclassy_Realconsignment
@Luxclassy_Realconsignment Ай бұрын
I have been trying to learn this for years
@dunjatomic2388
@dunjatomic2388 Ай бұрын
This video is phenomenal!!!! My mind is blownnnn
@studentRN81
@studentRN81 2 жыл бұрын
I’ve seen grading done a few different ways but never like this, wow. Can we see how you would grade a skirt? Hmm I’m guessing the skirt would be super easy to do. Would love to see more grading videos. Is there a name for this particular grading? I am enjoying all your videos. Thank you.
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын
Great comment! I was thinking about doing another grading video because I wanted to make sure the process was clear enough. I could definitely do a skirt! Coming up soon!
@1wolfpup
@1wolfpup 2 жыл бұрын
Your videos are so helpful. Thank you!
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын
Oh, thanks for giving this older video some love! Grading is such a useful skill. I use it all the time for my classes.
@christinemaryfield
@christinemaryfield 2 жыл бұрын
This was SO clear and helpful!!!
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting!
@iamnajeha
@iamnajeha 3 ай бұрын
Thanks!
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews 2 ай бұрын
Thanks so much for the super thanks! Greatly appreciated!
@mioangel1227
@mioangel1227 2 жыл бұрын
TFS! Could you please teach us how to grade a jacket with collar, cuff, pocket, Etc.? Thanks! Very much appreciated!
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын
Great suggestion! That was one of my first jobs in the fashion industry - to take a trenchcoat pattern down to a 4 and up to a 16. It's a lot of work to do it by hand, but I will try to make a video like that for you.
@mioangel1227
@mioangel1227 2 жыл бұрын
@@CatherineSews Thanks so much! 🙏
@dino2064
@dino2064 11 ай бұрын
Very helpful video, thank you. Happy new year, sending positive thoughts!
@briantaylor9475
@briantaylor9475 11 ай бұрын
Thank you for the video. It is fantastic!! It is sort of a mix of a Ouija board and an Etch-A-Sketch. It will be fun to try it out. I may use metric based on multiples of 3.
@gwensampson1336
@gwensampson1336 2 жыл бұрын
So interesting...more of this grading classes will be appreciated plsssse!
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын
So glad you liked this one! I'll do more grading videos sometime soon!
@mioangel1227
@mioangel1227 2 жыл бұрын
@@CatherineSews Thanks for your teaching! Please could you make one grading a pattern with dart? Very much appreciated!
@vernabohnert635
@vernabohnert635 2 жыл бұрын
Very interesting, thanks for sharing 😀
@ireneclark1217
@ireneclark1217 2 жыл бұрын
Please can you show how to grade a princess bodice up to a larger size. Thank you
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын
Ok, I will add that to my To Do list! Thanks for watching.
@heatherwall6877
@heatherwall6877 9 ай бұрын
You are amazing! Thank you so much! My daughter wants a 60's men's double breasted jacket and trying to figure out how to size it down has been a nightmare. This will help me a ton! If you have any advice for changes from a man's pattern to a women's I would really appreciate it. The bust is the only worry I have.
@beckyreid1711
@beckyreid1711 9 ай бұрын
Now I finally understand, thank you!
@delbarnes8285
@delbarnes8285 Жыл бұрын
Thank you for this amazing video. What about grading for a certain individual, like a custom dress specifically for that person?
@nusaibahibraheem8183
@nusaibahibraheem8183 2 жыл бұрын
Very helpful
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын
Glad to hear that. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
@anymoose6685
@anymoose6685 2 жыл бұрын
So clear!
@leila1700
@leila1700 Ай бұрын
Do you draft your own Lutterloh system? The miniature design that you can then enlarge to your own measurement? I would love to see such a video.
@dthomascful
@dthomascful 2 ай бұрын
only had to watch about 20 times, but I get it! The math was the hardest part to get all the different directions calculated correctly.. Where do I put the pattern marks though to be sure they are in the correct position with the increased scaling I just did?
@puledressdesigns
@puledressdesigns 2 жыл бұрын
How do you know how to balance or where exactly to grade? Are these grading places the same everywhere?
@puledressdesigns
@puledressdesigns 2 жыл бұрын
I got it. Thank you for this video.
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын
@@puledressdesigns It's not an easy thing to understand, so I'm glad you'r feeling like you've got it now. At some point I'll make another video that explains a bit more about grading, but until then, just let me know if you have any questions.
@puledressdesigns
@puledressdesigns 2 жыл бұрын
@@CatherineSews I’ve always wanted to learn how to grade. I have this ruler like paper that grades but I wanted to learn how to manually grade with just a ruler, pencil and a sheet of paper. This video clarified everything. I read a comment about the dart so I will go back and read up on that. Would love to see more videos on grading though. Thank you again.
@KN-bx9nt
@KN-bx9nt Жыл бұрын
Hi, great video - is the front t-shirt the exact same increment as the back?
@Alaskaraised
@Alaskaraised 6 ай бұрын
Thank you for this! What paper are you using and where do you get it?
@delbarnes8285
@delbarnes8285 2 жыл бұрын
You mentioned having the bodice a half inch longer, if you were grading to a 1” instead, would you have just made it a quarter inch longer?
@IAMSHAISMA
@IAMSHAISMA 2 жыл бұрын
great video !!!
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@antoniaclarke830
@antoniaclarke830 3 ай бұрын
Thank you for explaining the process so clearly and concisely! I have a question: I’m grading up an old pattern for a onesie from M (adult 10/12) to fit a much larger lady. I have basically got to add 16 inches circumference. I don’t need to lengthen the pattern as she is quite short but I’m not absolutely sure how to grade the pattern for the crotch. I will do a toile, as the fabric is expensive, but can I grade up in one go, or should I grade up one size at a time? Thanks
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews 3 ай бұрын
@@antoniaclarke830 you can do it in one go. You’d be adding 4” to each quadrant to get your 16” total. If you can get a thigh measurement then you’d know how much you need to extend at the crotch/top of the leg.
@dorcassanya
@dorcassanya Жыл бұрын
Thank you, for the great video. How would you grade a pattern with darts?I.e bust, waist and shoulder darts?
@kristicorbett8038
@kristicorbett8038 Жыл бұрын
Great video! Just wanted to know if going from a LG to xl would it be 4 in all around?
@janicecollier2787
@janicecollier2787 2 жыл бұрын
I still grade by hand 🙂
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews 2 жыл бұрын
Yes, sister!! We must be from the same generation!
@stellfashion1268
@stellfashion1268 Жыл бұрын
You’re amazing ❤
@zarakalom4607
@zarakalom4607 Жыл бұрын
firstly, thank you soo much Cathrine for this Video. i am new to pattern grading and found this super helpful. I am a bit confused though, was hoping you can clarify this for me. You said you are going up by 2" all together and dividing it into 4 quadrants which would be 1/2" total in each piece. In the example you gave for the top and shorts with 4 pieces, the amount you're adding is coming up to 1" which multiplied by 4 pieces is double what you are suggesting. so instead of going up by 2" i end up going up by 4. Could you provide some clarification, it would be so helpful, Thank youu!!!!!!!
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews Жыл бұрын
Good catch, Zara! After I made this video, I realized my error, so I posted a correction. You'll find the link in the description box.
@dorcassanya
@dorcassanya Жыл бұрын
What books would you recommend to learn more about this topic?
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews Жыл бұрын
Excellent question. I don't think I've ever seen a book on it!
@haymur8533
@haymur8533 Жыл бұрын
Hey mam, if there is dart how much you move ?
@dcwatashi
@dcwatashi Жыл бұрын
Oh I have a Pajamas Short Pattern where the front is fine the length is fine but the back piece is 2 inches wider than necessary So I’m just guessing I sliced the pattern piece down the middle move it in 2 inches and then true up the other lines like the waistline and the hemline?
@Kwacze
@Kwacze 19 күн бұрын
so simple , thx
@momzilla9491
@momzilla9491 3 ай бұрын
Hi Katherine, Could this method of pattern grading be used for stretch fabric. I want to use my woven Block. I don't think fabric with only a 10% stretch would matter much. What kind of formula is used for Stretch? I only saw one Pattern Maker use a formula and didn't explain it. She was extremely slim using a minimal stretch fabric. Formula 1.1 divided by 4. I worked the math out for my bust without ease. The calculation only reduced my bust circumference by less than 10%. .932 . The end of Summer sales are on and I would love to buy some stretch fabric. If you know how the percentages work would you pleaseeeeeeeeeeeee teach us? Biggest thanks sweet Lady! p.s. Maybe I don't know what I am doing at all? I just looked at a Note from 2020 saying that unless a fabric has more than 60% Stretch, it isn't enough to use for a pattern with negative ease. HONK!
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews 3 ай бұрын
Yes, you can use the same method with knits.
@momzilla9491
@momzilla9491 3 ай бұрын
@@CatherineSews Great! Please help us deal with the Formulas! Thanks Catherine!
@TriciaLBarber
@TriciaLBarber 3 ай бұрын
I got how to figure out how much you want to grade. But drawing the lines kinda confused me. How do you know what each line is for?
@sheom538
@sheom538 Жыл бұрын
I need someone to coach me for pattern grading by Gerber or whatever? Do you think we can have a meeting online! Please let me know.
@abielaird
@abielaird Жыл бұрын
In your sketch why didn't you add 1/4 of an inch to each side of the sleeve?
@kaidyncemoffitt6193
@kaidyncemoffitt6193 Жыл бұрын
Thank god for KZbin tho!!
@jasmiereroyster2401
@jasmiereroyster2401 Жыл бұрын
Hi i noticed, in the beginning on your small sketches you said you wanted the front bodice to be 1/2 inch longer. But on the vertical lines in the neckline and sleeve you put 1/8, then on the vertical side seam you put 3/8. That doesn’t equal 1/2 inch if you add the side seam and the vertical arm hole line. I’m confused. Then on the center front vertical line you put /8. I don’t understand what you did there. Please help. I hope you answer 🙏🏾
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews Жыл бұрын
I just rewatched that section and either I forgot to write the 3 in the 3/8 on the centre front edge as I was saying it, or it’s just hard to see! (On second look, I think you’re right! I said 3/8 but I only wrote /8!) So yes, it should say 3/8 on the centre front to balance the 3/8 on the side seam. Add the 1/8 in the neck/shoulder. 1:8 + 3/8 = 4/8 = 1/2. Sorry for any confusion!
@jasmiereroyster2401
@jasmiereroyster2401 Жыл бұрын
@@CatherineSews thank you for responding :) i got confused because the horizontal lines at the top of the bodice all equal 1/2 inch to balance the bottom. So i was expecting the left side vertical lines to equal 1/2 and the right side to equal 1/2. I was doing 3/8+1/8=7/16 of an inch. Because i wasn’t getting 1/2 inch on the vertical like i got on the horizontal i got lost.
@helenwood3199
@helenwood3199 Жыл бұрын
Try rubbing alcohol to remove permanent marker from your ruler.
@thapelotlou1254
@thapelotlou1254 3 жыл бұрын
Hey Catherine, I wanted to know how do you grade a pattern that has darts? Where do you put/move the darts to?
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews 3 жыл бұрын
Great question! You want to keep the dart directed to the bust point, so the safest route is to split your grading increment and put half before the dart and half after.
@moniquedespins3574
@moniquedespins3574 3 ай бұрын
I just don't quite understand how the body measurements for the different sizes works. If it's arbitrary, how does that work?
@CatherineSews
@CatherineSews 3 ай бұрын
@@moniquedespins3574 each pattern company works out their own system, so when you’re grading a pattern, you can just decide how much you want to make it bigger and go from there.
@moniquedespins3574
@moniquedespins3574 3 ай бұрын
@@CatherineSews thanks for the reply!
@helenwood3199
@helenwood3199 Жыл бұрын
A tad confusing when you say slide down, but move the original pattern piece to your right.
@kaidyncemoffitt6193
@kaidyncemoffitt6193 Жыл бұрын
I hope this isn’t offensive but things used to be so less confusing technology has arguably complicated my life entirely
@kaidyncemoffitt6193
@kaidyncemoffitt6193 Жыл бұрын
God bless
@Parakeetfriend4215
@Parakeetfriend4215 11 ай бұрын
What irks me is if I find something that fits my middle, the neckline is like a dinnerplate. What's with explanding the neckline on women's wear???! Men are the ones whose necks get larger, not women.
@debbiesnyder4778
@debbiesnyder4778 Жыл бұрын
Sorry I got lost
@stephaniecollins6052
@stephaniecollins6052 Жыл бұрын
I see why it's done by computer. Yikes
@venkateshvenkatesh3933
@venkateshvenkatesh3933 Жыл бұрын
Not clear exzplain
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