Denim Guru Gives Verdict on GQ's Raw Denim Guide

[@jakethomas6975]

you can get straight-ahead raw wranglers, they're typically denoted as "rigid" in their product listings and imo they're preferable to the one-wash variants

[@skandahooligan88]

I definitely still count one wash as raw. If not technically, then in spirit. Literally the only difference is if the manufacturer shrinks them with water or I do the moment I get them home. Yes, I have more control over sizing but given the straight fits I go for, it's not much of a problem. Then you have the fact that so many brands like TCB, Orslow, Warehouse etc sell almost exclusively washed jeans and you'd be missing out on so much great denim if you discounted them on that basis.

[@CeeAreDee]

Yeah. You’re right. Got too much in the weeds with that one.

[@skandahooligan88]

​@@CeeAreDeeyou're damned if you do and damned if you don't on social media. If you didn't mention it, there'd no doubt be someone chipping off in the comments that the jeans you mentioned aren't technically raw 😅

[@CeeAreDee]

@@skandahooligan88 hahaha. Man. It’s a minefield out there.

[@JayCrisologo-wj4ml]

Kenzo recently got NIgo as a creative director, and from what I understand he's a hardcore vintage denim collector valued highly.

[@CeeAreDee]

And that explains why those jeans are so dope. Thanks for the info. 🙏🏻👍🏻

[@Arcticneo_]

since I don't really care for slim fits in general I was happy to see APC bringing back the Standard cut... perhaps i'm uncultured when it comes to raw denim but the pants feel great and look amazing

[@chrisgoodman1997]

I would love to see more of your take on menswear in media. Specifically a reaction to the clothes in the TV show the Bear. The main character has a deep love for denim and his collection is used to drive the plot at times.

[@robertaguilar3279]

Thank you for your videos. I enjoy them a lot. I just wanted to share a personal preference. I do wear boot cut jeans and have been doing so for the past 30 years. It's very disappointing when really good brands don't offer them. Thank you again.

[@CeeAreDee]

There are a few good brands doing them these days. Iron heart and eat dust spring to mind.

[@oscarserna6221]

You should do a review of the mister freedom ranch blouse. It has to be one of the most unique takes on a type 1&2 style jacket

[@CeeAreDee]

Haha. Need to sell more ads to get my hands on one of those. They are beautiful but so pricey.

[@RogerLoera]

So I just purchased left field muleskinner black jacket. It's pretty rad! And it's nonselvedge too. Made from Mount Vernon Mills. Not too much information on them. Just maybe you can do some research on them and their fabric. I've never even heard of them till I bought the jacket.

[@justintullock9371]

I’m a big fan of everything Buck Mason. Seriously, they have a wonderful selection of tees. Their Black Curve Hem Slub tee is possibly the best out there for the money. I own a lot of their items. Their jeans are wonderful! Though they may not be raw they are righteous.

[@hammalamiri12]

Love the Evisu jacket in the background

[@ttv.snakez1x402]

I have some apc selvedge denim and they are my favorite considering the price why are they ranked so low here?

[@CeeAreDee]

I personally find the quality really lacking and the founder has just outed himself as a big tone deaf to the times a few too many times saying dumb shit.

[@roberttudisco6530]

What would the tailoring on the Wranglers be? Are we talking more than hemming? The fit is pretty spot for me

[@nichoorr9976]

Hey you should make a video about Evisu jeans. Specifically how to wash the jeans and care for them so there is no paint fading, and how to make them fade greenish hue that Evisu is famous for

[@StelmachsWorld]

Off topic but have you ever looked at Ralph lauren denim? Recently I picked up a jacket and some trousers and I gotta say the quality with the polo line denim impressed me

[@terrywilcox6189]

I'm so glad Levi's & Wrangler Jeans are still made to fit Big & Tall men AND they're reasonably priced; unfortunately, they as well as Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger (still happy they too make jeans in big & tall sizes) have strayed away from making High Rise jeans! Gone are the days when you used to be able to wear jeans that used to comfortably fit OVER your belly button.

[@Esylvan]

the Kenzo jeans are from the new creative director Nigo who is a collector of vintage levis

[@CeeAreDee]

Ahhh. That explains things. 😊🙏🏻👍🏻

[@brianroney541]

What brand makes the denim jacket that was popped on the screen a couple of times? It must be a japanese brand. The last pop up was just after 13:30.

[@cash4chaos]

Give credit to RRL, they started the selvedge craze in 1994, before that Japanese kids were coming to the US to buy Levi’s Big E’s and Redline jeans.

[@thedroneofthebagpipes4926]

Hi Matt, a “pick your brain” comment here, I’ve just had two pairs of selvedge jeans delivered today, my first ever, a pair of Edwin and a pair of Brave Star, I love both of them, the Edwin are good to go right out the box but the Brave Star are needing four inches off the leg, they are 36 inches long, I’m wondering if you know a tailor in Glasgow that you would recommend please? I only happened upon your channel about a month or so ago and I’m now hooked on all things selvedge and Japanese! Cheers, Bill.

[@djchesterhk]

Would like to know your UPDATED Denim list for 2023. Video would be nice =)

[@CeeAreDee]

Hmmm. Not a bad idea.

[@marlinspike1235]

There is Vidalia mills in US making selvedge denim. Just waiting when Brave Star takes their denim and we have again real American made jeans and jackets......

[@CeeAreDee]

If you want to get some right now. Check left field nyc. They have vadalia denim and made in USA

[@marlinspike1235]

@@CeeAreDee thanks for the info, should go and check 😁

[@chrisalexander6307]

@@marlinspike1235 Check out Freenote Cloth(you have search for it ) and Imogene + willie they’re also made in the US and using vadilia mills denim

[@KDP2009]

I just discovered raw through N&F with my first pair of heavy weight Japanese Denim and it's opened my eyes. I used to only wear cheap color Levi's, but I've been exposed to a whole new world of slub selvedge 😭

[@michaelschafer6379]

What I always wonder: how is your take on "AliExpress" jeans, not the cheap cheap, but"brands" like Maden, SauceZhan or Bronson?

[@CeeAreDee]

I’ve never had my hands on any of them. But I heard good things about saucezahn. Branson is ok but the quality is not there. But this is second hand info.

[@michaelschafer6379]

Thanks

[@DMorgan77]

Great video as always. Hopefully, people who read the article in hopes of finding a pair will come across this video.

[@CeeAreDee]

I hope so too!

[@DefectorOfFutureDays]

I love the 18th century miner look 😂

[@CeeAreDee]

It’s a look. I just can’t pull it off. Not even close 😂

[@isaiahgonzalez6709]

I hope you respond but what denim jacket is that you are wearing in this video??

[@CeeAreDee]

It’s from Benzak. benzakdenimdevelopers.com/collections/jackets?ktk=UEdKczZRLWVjNGY4NzgzOWI4 Unfortunately it’s not in production at the moment. But they have some other really nice ones.

[@isaiahgonzalez6709]

@@CeeAreDee OMG you replied! Thank you!

[@CeeAreDee]

@@isaiahgonzalez6709 you’re welcome mate.

[@AJ-by6pd]

I’d like to get a pair of naked and famous selvage denim jeans, but I like to wear boots without wearing the flared out boot cut jeans. Do they make a straight fit?

[@argondrolf785]

They did but I don’t know if they’re making more. You might be able to find some pairs on the website. It was called the skinny guy

[@skandahooligan88]

They've got all their different fits with descriptions and pictures on their website. There should be at least one cut that works for you.

[@AJ-by6pd]

@@skandahooligan88 I have seen that, but I don’t believe they make a true straight fit.

[@manfredmar]

@@AJ-by6pd they are coming out with a new fit this month called "True Guy" that is supposed to be a straight fit.

[@AJ-by6pd]

@@manfredmar yes I know. I spoke with the owner of naked and famous about a 2 weeks ago and he told me about that.

[@lowkeybredhead8083]

are we seeing a video any time soon?

[@mattiagallo1780]

How good are gstar raw denim?

[@matthewmagda4971]

Inspirational!!

[@JM12044]

Great video. I believe the unbranded brand ub101 started raw denim for me. Or just the raw Levi’s 501. One of the two.

[@VenomousTeddy]

I'm not agreeing with your assessment that some of these jeans aren't truly raw because they are a single wash fabric. If you're going to say that, sanforized jeans are not truly raw because the fabric is not the same as it was off of the loom. If the fabric is not industrially worn in for the sake of attaining an aesthetic, it's raw in my books.

[@saltedracer18]

Nice video once again. Can you point me toward a video you've made on the idea of 'stolen valor' if indeed you've made one. Or explain it a little. I ask because I encountered someone recently who was really offended by, for exmaple, Iron Heart flannels and used that term specifically. This individual argued, essentially , that it's disrespectful to wear work-inspired clothing and did reference you specifically in their argument. As I'm sure you know, it can me difficult to have an open minded conversation with someone on the internet. I'd love to hear more about this perspective in less of an "angry person on the internet" manner.

[@blueband8114]

You can't have stolen valour off a flannel shirt. That's ridiculous. They are clothes, designed to be worn by anyone. They are not a military uniform.

[@saltedracer18]

@@blueband8114 Yes, that's what I was thinking blue-the argument was that tp say Japanese flannels are the best is taking something away from USA makers--but flannels came from Europe as far as I know. It's the first I ever heard of "stolen valor.' I get it if you are walking around in military gear saying that 'I've served' or something...

[@blueband8114]

@Salted Racer a lot of it originates from Europe, Kersey fabric, Denim, Herringbone, Chambray etc.

[@DMorgan77]

Just wear what you like, pointless to argue with someone on the internet. Like you said, it's not like you're walking around in a uniform pretending to have served.

[@HereForTheStories]

I’d get different friends, people trying to find offence

[@johnnyc.3261]

Watching the video with my girlfriend and she pointed out how your always putting your middle finger up to your face and moving it around a bunch. I can’t unsee it now and it is a bit distracting. Great video though, thx.

[@jaggavan]

Damn you lol its distracting

[@leodileodileo]

‘Cause he’s a guitar player needs to hold the pick with the tumb and the index finger.

[@CeeAreDee]

A few folks pointed that out. Guess I’ve got myself a little nervous tick. Tell your other half I’ll work on it and thanks for the feedback. 😊😊😊

[@karlrepollo9463]

I still wear nudies since 2010 and really need to try other brands

[@CeeAreDee]

Ahh. They are a good brand and if it’s working for you then that’s cool after a decade.

[@mihranbobson7753]

This GQ list is an absolute joke !! Once again they have shown how woefully out of touch and irrelevant they have sadly become. I was an avid subscriber to them from when they were actually quarterly. But have read them ever in the passed 10 years

[@saltedracer18]

some of those jeans do look atrocious...but that's very subjective of course. I do like the Cee R Dee just didn't include the same ole brands--I do like seeing new brands even if they are def not for me

[@caivsivlivs]

lol tf as the IFYKYK arbiters

[@밤톨톨이-q4o]

Excuse me sir you look like Liverpool FC manager

[@CeeAreDee]

Well paid and in charge. I’ll take that. Thank you. 😊

[@lonniesharp9109]

I don't mind you flipping me off for 80% of the video, but the oversized clunky ring accentuating your middle finger while you do it, that's just cruel. 😎

[@CeeAreDee]

😂 it’s been brought to my attention by a few folk that I’ve found myself a nice little nervous tick. I’ll work on it.

[@Curdle7]

hahahahaha size will shrink by half .. a regular size guy will need to buy the 70 inch waist

[@CeeAreDee]

I hope they mean a half size 😂

[@airdbreck]

Havering 😂😂😂

[@CeeAreDee]

🗣️

[@latetodagame1892]

I don't know what you are mumbling and going on about. Can you finish a thought?

[@HereForTheStories]

Do GQ actually bother getting humans to write their content as the quality seems to be at the level of non-domesticated monkeys?

[@CeeAreDee]

Ah. I think Jake is quite well respected in the community.

[@jamesrrr37657]

"Denim guru"? You goof.

[@CeeAreDee]

🧘🏻‍♂️😂

[@harrybrown7680]

Kanntest du den deutschen Hersteller BLAUMANN JEANSHOSEN?🤔 Das helle ecru-farbende Jeanshemd von denen ist nicht schlecht

[@CeeAreDee]

Yeah. I know the blaumann guys. They make some great jeans and the work shirt is amazing. Never owned anything from them though.

[@harrybrown7680]

Check out the 22oz RAW Denim from THE UNBRANDED BRAND!

[@CeeAreDee]

22oz. Way too heavy for me. 🏋🏻

[@harrybrown7680]

@@CeeAreDee CHECK IT OUT!

[@dark_gravity_edc]

Typical GQ. A few legit mixed in with a bunch of fashion trend only companies. They're a joke.

[@xXcangjieXx]

I had a pair of raw denim jeans from Acne several years ago. They were actually really good quality and faded really nice.

[@blueband8114]

Not a single pair on that list that would remotely be on my radar, bar the 3sixteen.

[@adoboFosho]

Did you want like samurai PBJ iron heart 😂