Centrifugal switch start Metropolitan-Vickers electric motor - Refurb

[@bruv2u2]

I had exactly the same issue with my Metropolitan-Vickers electric motor (Exactly the same as yours for Myford ml7 lathe) and thought that I might be looking for a new motor to replace it. After searching I found your video. What an inspiration! Spent the day stripping , cleaning and repairing faulty insulation following your method. All reassembled and back on the lathe now working perfectly again. Hopefully will outlive me now. Thank you.

[@AdeSwash]

That's great to hear Matt Williamson, another motor restored instead of the scrap man. :) Regards. Ade

[@Pagweldfab]

Thanks for sharing. My son and I are restoring a 1940's GE motor and your video was very helpful.

[@alanheath5322]

The only video that shows how to lubricate the motor correctly, really enjoyed watching Thank You

[@AdeSwash]

Glad you enjoyed it Alan :)

[@lourias]

I appreciate how you found braided coverings, but added the shrink fit sleeves for the best prevention of improper contact! Thank you for the extra safety tips!

[@stevesimpson5994]

Terrific. I really enjoyed your detailed commentary. You have a very clear voice and straight forward manner.

[@clivecorlett8204]

Hi Thanks for the video. I have inherited an ML7 and after seeing that this is just a 2 spanner job, had a go myself. Swarf blocked oilers, burnt contacts, massive clumps of dirt; now all paraffin shiny and clean. Good for another 70yrs.

[@AdeSwash]

Good for you Clive, nice to hear another old motor has been saved from the scrapheap :) Regards Ade

[@emiliomagnus940]

the voice makes me very focused on the video that it was like I'm watching History Channel - very detailed

[@lourias]

... and the very old-styled orchestra music was a classic touch!

[@AdeSwash]

Thanks Emilio :)

[@shauna260]

I’ve just bought a super 7, so now doing binge watching lathe videos. Found your channel and have to say I like your videos very much, and your presentation style, I’m going through all of yours now, and I have subscribed! Thank you very much Ade. Regards Sean

[@AdeSwash]

Hi Sean, thanks for the sub, hope my videos help you out with the new Myford, they are superb machines, have fun :) Regards. Ade

[@truegritbulldog]

Really well done. Have a similiar USA motor that needs about the same service. Thanks for sharing!

[@andrewclarkehomeimprovement]

Thanks for this. I have exactly the same job to do on the same motor but I'm intending to keep the reversing aspect.

[@musavirkhan9795]

This was really worth watching, besides very educating it was very hybonotizing to see how one remains gentle of thier machines that have lived along with ones life.

[@AdeSwash]

Thank you Musavir, I'm happy that you appreciated the video :)

[@KirkyRC]

I have the same motor on my 69yr old Myford ML7. I've just stripped it to clean it. I was lucky with mine as the windings we all ok..Great video and nice bit of history too 😊

[@AdeSwash]

Thanks John, they are great motors, good to hear you have an old MetroVic also. Regards Ade

[@SteveJordan]

Great video and lovely result. Its excellent to see something cleaned and restored like this. Your motor and lathe is so quiet!

[@AdeSwash]

Thanks Steve, hopefully the motor will serve me well for time to come :)

[@trevorchapman5139]

Thanks ade after seeing this video my motor went down and remembering your video stripped and cleaned it all as you did and now back in action.

[@AdeSwash]

Good to hear the video was useful to you Trevor :)

[@shane5809]

Makes me want to take mine off and give it a good coat of paint. My ML7 has an old American made General Electric motor. Thanks for the video!

[@roberthughes6240]

great video, I have a compressor with a slightly later version of this motor, it has ball bearings not bushes,and where yours has the centrifugal switch on a circuit board type material the one I have was Bakalite, I broke this when stripping it down so I 3d printed one, I've not got it running yet as I've mixed up the wires inside, I'm going to be looking more closely at your video for some pointers shortly. Thank you

[@pauln1557]

Hi Ade, A quality refurbishment , good for another 70 years!! Isn't it awesome to see the condition of the bearings after all those years and revolutions. This is a truly, environmentally friendly item, built to last beyond the life expectancy of its makers. How many Chinese motors will still be running in 2088??? Regards Paul

[@AdeSwash]

Thanks Paul

[@SuperKwame1]

It is sad, Because The Old British Motor You are working on is no longer being Made. The only thing Left is New Chinese Junk! Great Work and Fantastic skills.

[@AdeSwash]

They dont make 'em like they used to!

[@TheUlrikkaul]

A quality motor like this, deserves a longer life. Thumbes up from me.

[@AdeSwash]

Thanks Ulrik :)

[@johanstoltz2147]

Very wel documented and detailed. Thank you.

[@AdeSwash]

Glad it was helpful, regards. Ade

[@mrbissi9377]

Great video. If the centrifugal switch is not releasing would this cause for the motor to draw higher current. My motor runs approximately 3amp without load and about 4-6 amp with load. I have found when the switch is not opening the current jumps to 22amps. The problem was a dead capacitor which I feel was the cause from the centrifugal switch not releasing when motor on. I find that the switch only doesn't release when the load is on the motor soon as I put some load after turning the motor on and off eventually the switch doesn’t release and the current jumps higher. The switch looks clean and no damage. Any help to diagnose is appreciated. Cheers

[@bobbystanley8580]

Incredible video and exceptional narration!

[@AdeSwash]

Thanks for watching

[@juanrivero8]

Glad you got away with WD-40. It is mostly kerosene (paraffin) but has some oil added and I was pleasantly surprised that the oil gave you no problems.

[@robertoswalt319]

I was expecting it to start smoking when he turned it on. That is what happened to me a couple of decades ago when I cleaned a motor that way.

[@MrPete1x]

Excellent video, thank you for showing this.

[@AdeSwash]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@piecetoyou8285]

What a great job,nice to keep these well made motors going,I have a few old sewing machine motors that look like yours , But I notice with one of mine on start up it sparks or arks behind the wiring plate,only on start up when I flick the switch, It might be some thing to do with the ceterfugle switch or the points,would it show where it the trouble is by black arc,

[@fasousa4798]

brake cleaner to remove that soot mate. works wonders and then wd40 to remove moisture

[@zvonibab]

great tip thank you!

[@petermartin5030]

How would you remedy a contact on a similar centrifugal switch that is too far gone to fix? The mechanism of the switch is fine but the contacts are shot.

[@machiningbasics1729]

Wow! Excellent job on that motor, the newton Tesla conversion is v expensive for sure !

[@Hamjaz]

I was just so absorbed watching this to the end. It just took over my mine, I don't know what in the earth he was doing but it was damn interesting.

[@AdeSwash]

Thanks for watching Abdul :)

[@olddognewtricks4804]

Good video, so the motor had a main winding and starter winding yes? Thanks,

[@AdeSwash]

Yes, and no capacitor

[@jrborrett7073]

Great video, many thanks, it inspired me to do an overhaul on my ML7 motor which is an AEI, just a few years newer. I was getting a lot of arcing on motor start and sometimes this would trip the RCD. After cleaning everything including the centrifugal switch contacts as you did, I still get significant sparks from the contacts on motor start. Did you notice if this happened on your motor after the refurbishment? Maybe some arcing is fairly normal? Would appreciate your comments.

[@AdeSwash]

Hi JR, the occasional spark is to be expected on the contacts closing, but should not be excessive, check that the contacts when closed have a good pressure between them and make full flat contact, mine was originally slightly misaligned causing a small contact surface and sparking

[@jrborrett7073]

@@AdeSwash Thanks for the advice Ade, I think the sparking is actually when the contacts open as the motor speeds up, but same thing I guess. I found this kzbin.info/www/bejne/g17NZ4Oeqc2LgLs which shows sparking on a pretty new looking motor, so seems it's fairly normal! Cheers

[@AdeSwash]

of course, my bad, wasnt thinking correctly

[@finchleyturner497]

thank you very much for the entertaining and informative video. My Myford ml7 has an identical motor and you encouraged me to give it a good service. I have only one question- can the motor run in reverse with your copper couplings?

[@AdeSwash]

Hi Finchley, no, the couplings allow only one direction, it needs additional wiring for reverse capability

[@finchleyturner497]

@@AdeSwash thank you! If I may ask you again- why original ML7 were fitted with a rotary switch which has 3 positions? I never had my lathe running (it came to me disassembled) so I wondered why 3 positions for this type of motor or is it just for convenience of switching it? thank you!

[@AdeSwash]

@@finchleyturner497 the motor is reversable, I chose to only have it running in one direction, hence the couplings, it can be wired to your dewhurst type switch to give forward and reverse

[@mwbkkk1]

I have the same motor on my myford 7 and it runs well and very quiet just wondering if you have added a reverse switch to yours and if you have a diagram

[@AdeSwash]

Hi Matthew, I havent fitted a reversing switch as I dont have the need for it

[@mwbkkk1]

@@AdeSwash thanks just a thought and decided not going to do mine neither

[@simpliciocamirino2271]

Thank you for that sharing sir.

[@jamesschenk1963]

Excellent job on the sweet old motor love the video.

[@AdeSwash]

Thankyou James, too good to throw away, they don't make 'em like they used to!

[@steveallen8987]

I have a myford ml7 with this exact same motor. I want to add a dewhurst type reversing switch. My understanding is that this type of motor with a governor switch uses two windings. A running winding that is always connected to power the same way. And a startup winding that disconnects when the motor is running, this winding is switched in its power connection polarity to determine which way the motor runs. Is this your understanding? Also am I correct in the two outer connections being the run winding and the inner two being the startup governor switched winding? Loved the video btw. Steve

[@AdeSwash]

I think thats correct Steve, you will need to run 2 extra wires to the dewhurst to reverse the polarity as far as I remember, but not too sure, I didnt want a reverse switch as the chucks I use are screw on and dont want to risk them unscrewing under power

[@AndyTaylorprinter]

Fantastic Cheers Ade.

[@Z-Ack]

•So you enjoy turning metal on the lathe? -sure do, spend every extra dime and minute i got towards it... •what do you turn on it? -turns metal into shavings, what else can a lathe do?

[@AdeSwash]

Hi Z Ack, the lathe is the backbone of any workshop, it can do more or less everything, except weld

[@jessestrum]

ade can you tell me what starter you have on your lathe , like you i only want to run my motor in one direction cheers

[@AdeSwash]

@jessestrum I use a NVR type switch with built in E stop

[@jessestrum]

thanks ade,

[@mkktbkkt5015]

😯 Great Video 👍

[@AdeSwash]

Thanks Mkkt :)

[@shadoman7682]

I have one of these that powered my Dads old Rand lathe. I have restored it back to looking brand new. I have a question; The oil wells for lubrication of the spindle. Just how far are these to be filled? I have put plenty of oil in each of the two wells and I am wondering where is all this oil going? I cannot see that the wells are topping up. I have measured with a gauge that they go down appx 1 inch to the spindle. Are these wells to be filled to the top half way? as I have put three cap fulls & more in each. They don't seem to be filling up & I cannot see any oil in them. I don't want to keep pouring more oil in each one if it is just overflowing into the motor casing or something. The motor runs perfectly. Is there meant to be a bit of felt in each oil well so that it slowly drips oil onto the spindle

[@AdeSwash]

Yes, there should be a felt plug to absorb the oil and slowly lubricate the shaft

[@shadoman7682]

@@AdeSwash Thanks, that great to know. The motor is from the 50's and the original felt plugs must have rotted away or something. It just didn't seem right That I kept putting oil into the wells & it was just disappearing. I'm not sure if now if too much Oil might have pooled into the casing of the motor. I may have to open it up again to check..

[@Farli-Gaming]

good job my dear chap

[@williamcarnell8677]

Superb video!!!

[@rayner1guerra]

Never sand the contacts. Clean them with a blade, scrape them off, you have to remove the rivets. By sanding them they lose their color or silver metal, useless forever. You have to go through the work of removing the rivets.

[@AdeSwash]

Thanks for the advice Rayner, the motor has been working perfectly on my lathe for the last 6 years

[@aliimran9322]

Incredible

[@Mehanathan_Raju]

PLs give me centrifical switch connection

[@rayfalcone6897]

nice video,ade........thank you.

[@mikej460]

Fascinating, your video sent me on a Wikipedia search on Metrovick and AEI then to GEC etc. with lots of side searches on WW11 aircraft! I bought an old AEI version of this motor in a garage sale some 15 years ago, it's identical to yours except for the name on the ratings plate. I've never used it until now after deciding to use it to power a bench disc sander I've made. I ran it up and it worked well kzbin.info/www/bejne/iKObpJlpnJp1fqM (the vibration is due to the motor not being clamped down). However today I tried to connect it to a NVR power switch using a new cable and the positive terminal post came loose. I've broken the motor apart but the leads from the terminal board to the windings are very short and I can't get to the screws that hold the terminal board to the housing! I'm going to have another go at it tomorrow and if I can get the whole thing disassembled I'm going to follow your video to clean and fix it. I suspect I will need to snip the wires and solder in new ones as you have done.

[@steveallen8987]

I have a myford ml7 with this exact same motor. I want to add a dewhurst type reversing switch. My understanding is that this type of motor with a governor switch uses two windings. A running winding that is always connected to power the same way. And a startup winding that disconnects when the motor is running, this winding is switched in its power connection polarity to determine which way the motor runs. Is this your understanding? Also am I correct in the two outer connections being the run winding and the inner two being the startup governor switched winding? Loved the video btw. Steve

[@AdeSwash]

Hi Steve, you are correct in your assessment, the start windings dictate direction of startup using the switched polarity, and they disconnect once up to speed via centrifical force