I think that there is enough room on the crank to double the journals so that you could an X16 engine.

This engine is on another level. Just watch it again

love the birds singing Sweden

Beautiful work! I’ve installed and operated many wells with these pumping units on them. The speed range is wide with small (minuscule) ones like my Jenkins 13W rated for up to 40 spm (strokes per minute) and large ones that stand around 30 feet tall at the saddle bearing and have up to a 320” stroke with a maximum of 4.5 spm. Check out the Redhead pumping units online if you’re interested. There are a variety of controllers used along with VFDs to allow the units to have a variable speed during the rotation to allow for things like pump barrel fillage, rod stretch and other factors unique to each well. Some oil is thin and flows into the pump quickly while other oil is more viscous and takes more time to flow. The solution gas flows up the casing to the surface where it is usually compressed and sent down the pipeline, often along with the oil to a battery for gathering, storage and processing. There are many companies specializing in oil well optimization that do things like run dynamometers that draw what’s called a “pump card” that can be interpreted and used as a valuable diagnostic tool for getting the most out of a pumping system. There’s so much more to it and those folks are the real experts. You’ve done a beautiful job on this unit, congratulations!

ade your a real cool guy

I worked on full size Ajax and Continental engines in the 20th century. They were all over the oil fields of south Arkansas but there’s not a lot of them left. A friend of mine traded one for a cherry model A coupe in the late 70s. I’ve been trying to buy a small holt H75. I finally found one I could afford to buy. It’s on the way but needs a little work from some fan and radiator damage. With the deal I got I don’t mind doing a little extra work on it. I can hardly wait on it to arrive. Big plans I have,!😂😂😂. I will have a good time fooling around with it anyhow.

hi ade i have to make two bronze nuts for my xslide on my DW do you know the thread size and type, appreciate any advice

Having just built one of these and watching your video I noticed a couple of things. One is that it vibrated quite a bit, then I noticed that your flywheel timing is off. When the piston is a top dead center the counter weights on the flywheels should be away from the top of the engine. The piston is 180 degrees from weights. The other thing I noticed is that your valve clearance is way too much. There is a gauge provided in the kit and you adjust the valve clearance at the push rod and rocker arm contact. There is also another video by another assembler that shows how the wiring is routed so that it is neat, but requires some removal of material from the base. I had fun building it, but the hardest part is putting the three ball bearings on the shaft and then sliding the collar over it. The next is getting the clearance correct on that collar. You think it is correct, but when you tighten the flywheel down it changes the clearance. When you build one you will see what I mean. Cheers.

For you not being a wood worker, your box looks fine, and it also gives your engine an interesting sound!

At 66 new to lathe work, not without knowledge as an engineer but this explains it perfectly. Top dog ❤

Looks like the head is leaking a bit. If I could suggest Permatex copper gasket maker in an aerosol, it works great for sealing and applying evenly.

LOVE THIS

Nicely done review, thank you for taking the time to put it all together

when machining stuart casting kits get too boring😂 hats off to you sir, that is some next-level model engineering!

Those extra riser are not necessary if poured the rite way! Crucible are suppose to be made of ceramic. You only need to wait 2 mins too so you don't burn the sand. I wouldn't follow this guy way of pouring anything.

Awesome project, thank you for sharing

haha, excellent video!

Very helpful video thanks - what Oil did you lubricate with ?

Thank you.

It's always nice to watch workings with metal. This video is a real eye opener for me now I'm retired. 10 out of 10 for the showing. 9 out of 10 for the comedy segments. Looks like a new hobby coming in.

Very cool I make model pumpjacks. I work on them as my day job lol. Got a few videos on my channel.

Why do you use the cutoff blade in reverse?

I got mine, assembled no problem. One tip though. On the first run I used live steam, with no go, so I ran it on low pressure compressed air for ten minutes to bed it in and then switched to steam and it worked well. One question though. Should I add some steam oil to the water in the boiler for lubrication? I currently use just sewing machine oil on the joints and three or four drops to the top of the cylinder. The other thing, the governor tries to throw itself to pieces, but adjustment seems to fix the problem. All in all, a nice well behaved little model

Thank you so much Ade i would be using your way to make my Schmidt coupling part, hope that went well😅

very cool, looks like the acme steam engine

Thank you Mister.

You mentioned breaking centre drills... A little tip I used as a professional manual machinist is when you lift (vertical spindle) the centre drill to breal the swarf and allow some coolant/oil to lube the tip AVOID lifting it TOO far, one thing that can happen if you do is that swarf will fall into your hole and happily snap off the tip of your centre drill. I had lots of sucess just 'micro lifting' it will break your swarf and allow a wee bit of lube that ive always found enough, i have to admit that it was often flood coolant but give it a try it worked very sweetly for me!

Nice work. Thanks for this very interesting video.

The ignition system they come with is horrible you need a buzz box to run these

It looked like there is something loose between the rocker arms

Sounded just like a Jensen Intercepter V8.

Instead of giving the supply line a squirt of oil every once in a while bet an Air Tool FRL ( Filter. Regulator Lubricator ) Init, That way you can regulate the speed and give a steady supply of oil.

Blooming marvellous. Great work

Respect to you. Nice engine and well explained.

try putting each bank into a single exhaust. i.e twin pipes this might make your classic v8 sound 👍

Lovely Ade, absolutely lovely 👍👍👍👍👍 I also really liked the start up 🤣🤣 Cheers, Alan.

beautiful

Nice work Ade as always

Enjoyed the vid Ade,just got my first Myford at 71 some great tips Thankyou

Putting the cut on useing the compound slide,you didn't say how you measured the thread depth.Did you turn the minor diameter on the end of the job and then then touch on it,or did you use trig and use the thread depth at 27 1/2 degrees.Not being a smart ass just wondered.

Good to see you back Ade and glad to hear you’ve got plenty of projects in the future.

Good to see you and your latest project Ade! My suggestion (because I'm sure you need more project ideas 🤣) for an extended version of this would be to make a 60 degree V12. And to make it extra challenging, maybe flip one bank of engines so that all the intakes are on the inside of the V, and all the exhausts are on the outsides of the cylinder banks. Then you could have a "proper" intake manifold within the V like on an actual car engine.

Well in intro ade it sounded better than my 4.6litre v8 TVR. Nice one. Steve.

❤

Great job, Ade. Lovely engine.

What a legend! Gets sponsored and doesn’t even remember the sponsor’s name! Haha!! That’s doing it right… 🤣 Cool engine!

It's a @#@###@ model. 😉

That's way cool. 😊

Like this very much Ade, followed on FB group as did many others and it is a joy to see it here on KZbin also.

Absolutely incredible Ade love your work, I'm currently in the process of building my own 1/2 scale version of the original Wig-Wag which has been loads of fun, can't wait for your future builds!