Chain Saw Won't Start Stihl 009L

[@DavoShed]

www.buymeacoffee.com/davosshed If you like watching my KZbin channel or just watched a single video that helped you out why not buy me a coffee. I’d really appreciate it. Consider subscribing if you haven’t already or simply drop me a comment to say hi or suggest a topic that I may like to cover. 🤠

[@richardcontant4659]

What I like about this video, is that you made all of the "mistakes", and had all the interrogations that anyone would have had while taking this great little saw down. Thanks for doing the thinking for us ! Great vid.

[@DavoShed]

Glad you liked it.

[@havannaGS]

Thank you for showing the spring position at 30:12 I gave my 009 to my neighbour for inspection who took it apart and lost this particular spring to never be found. Now, 5 years later I found time for repair. Just wanted to make sure where its position is.

[@DavoShed]

Well done! Good feeling to finally sort out those jobs. I have a few of them in the back of the shed🤠

[@willmacleod1742]

Great Video, one of Stihls great saws, mine is 20 yr old, and still going strong, plenty of preventative maintainance, is key to longevity. WELL DONE.

[@DavoShed]

Thanks, that’s a friends saw. Mine is about the same size but a different model. I find sharpening the blade after each use keeps it going well. At least it feels that way 🤠 I always have a spare blade with me incase it goes blunt while I’m out. I made a video on how I sharpen them as well. Thanks for commenting

[@blarneyetone]

Great Video! My friend has a 009 that quit running. Had spark and good compression. Rebuilt the carb with a kit, fixed the broken gas tank vent with an aftermarket check valve instead of the screws in the vent line. Plugged the hole to where the line went to where foam used to be above the chain clutch. Major problem was the Oiler was not working. Pulled that and the pump needle on the diaphragm was locked in place. Shot some Kroil in the hole and managed to carefully finesse it out of the cylinder. Oiler Filter had decomposed and left debris in the oil tank. Diaphragm was pretty dry and inflexible. There were some spots where the coating had worn off and I could see some light through the diaphragm material but no cracks or holes. I used a thinned out RTV silicone to put a thin coat on the back side of the diaphragm and then soaked it in 303 protectant for a day. Loosened it up and gained a lot of flexibility. Bought a replacement oil pump filter and Re-installed. It worked. Not sure how long it will hold up, but the oiler diaphragms are not available any longer. Great little saws and worth the time to try and keep them running.

[@chrisrageNJ]

I know this is an old comment but you can find new reproduction oilers online now for pretty cheap. You can find the full oilers or the parts to rebuild them, including just the diaphragms and gaskets. I'm working on two 011s now and I've been researching parts extensively. I also did an experiment using E6000 to repair a cracked fuel diaphragm and it worked. I smeared a thin coat of E6000 on the cover side where it was cracked and then I stuck it to a piece of clear packing tape so I could squish the glue into a thin even film and it worked well enough to get the saw running and idling. It leaked where the glue wasn't even but it was also missing the gasket that goes with the diaphragm. That stuff seems to be fuel resistant and if it works for fuel it should certainly work for oil. New is better but it's nice to know there are options for irreplaceable parts, just make sure all the oil is removed with brake parts cleaner or acetone, whatever will degrease it without destroying the plastic

[@williamgrissom1995]

I had that model and they oil like crazy, so the guy must have run the oil dry or failed to clean the bar for the bar to get that hot. Cleaning the spark plug was the cure on this fix in my opinion. This saw has plenty of torque but it's not a fast saw. So my guess is the owner is running it with too much oil in the mix causing the plug to foul. I ran 50:1 and never had any issues with the plug fouling. Great job in taking it all apart and putting it back together with it being a new saw to you. And taking the bur off the bar does matter in my opinion and a very good idea. Great video. 😎👍 PS. I wouldn't mind having that saw again. Very reliable little saw.

[@DavoShed]

Thanks for commenting. Most saws are nice if you keep them sharp 🤠 I’m currently fixing a old Mantle Clock. I have it completely disassembled and I’m cleaning all those gears and bearings. I can’t help but think I’m an old dog and this is a new trick! Not sure if I’ll film it. Might be boring as hell for someone else to watch. Dave

[@tomwhelan4561]

You remind me of myself,mate! Helpful video for those of us that love older stihl chainsaws,cheers!

[@DavoShed]

Hey Tom, You must be a healthy, good looking intelligent bloke then :) Glad you liked the video. I have made many others not as popular as this one :) Thanks for the comment Dave

[@bachduong534]

I have the same kind of hobby as yours and I'm imagining to be in the time as yours in this video. Thanks for this video...

[@DavoShed]

I’m not sure what you mean? Do you like fixing and or making stuff? I surprised my self the other day. I bought a 90ish year old broken mantle clock, pulled it apart and put it back together again and now it works. I didn’t video it as it would be like watching paint dry.🤠

[@bachduong534]

@@DavoShed That's right. You've said what one of my primary hobbies is, that has given me some entertainment, physically and mentally healthy activities and many helful, nice and durable tools/equipments. I feel your love and patience (never-giving-up) through your video. We're different at the present but totally have similar journeys of life. Be happy and best wishes from Vietnam...

[@DavoShed]

Thanks I understand now. If you want to see me not giving up look for the one where I fix a broken tape measure I found in the rubbish at a building site.

[@Hear-MeoutTwo2]

/Fantastic video. I pulled mine out yesterday to try to get it back running. I have had it since 1988 and the last time I used it was approximately three years ago. It was running fine until my friend put oil in the gas tank and fuel in the oil tank. We drained it but I never took actions to get it back up. When I checked it out yesterday and it was stiff as the one in this video, I decided to wait until viewing some instructions before diving into it. I plan to clean the carb before moving forward. Your demonstration with this saw was on point because I had forgotten how to break it down. Thanks

[@DavoShed]

I felt a bit disappointed when I got to the end of that video because I didn’t find anything wrong. But I did teach my self how it comes apart and how some of that stuff worked. Some footage of me pulling other bits apart got cut as I was going down a blind ally :) I didn’t need to pull the carby apart. I’d say clean the plug and check for spark first. Although straight oil in the fuel tank could certainly block up the carb. My attitude was “Nothing to loose as it’s already broken”. Keep your eyes open and your brain on. You will figure it out. I had to refer to my own video to figure out how some things went back. Take photos as you go just in case. Good Luck!

[@chrisrageNJ]

I know this is an old comment but Kain Kustom Garage has a great video on the 011s if you need more in-depth information on how to tear down the carb. I found out the hard way there's a couple different carbs depending on the year of manufacturing, make sure you have the right rebuild kit for your carb. One of mine has a warlboro carb that is different from the other one and the carburetor parts aren't interchangeable. They're really simple though, just make sure you fully disassemble the carb before you blow air through any of the ports bc I believe I blew out a fuel diaphragm doing that

[@5203mhr]

Great video content I am having issues to tighten the chan and putting cover back on and chain getting jammed

[@DavoShed]

Hi There, It’s hard to know what’s going on without seeing your saw. Make sure everything is clear of sawdust. If you have a compressor blow it off. If not try a brush. Have a look at the parts logically and think about how they work together. I don’t have that saw that my place any more but I recall a screw that is used to adjust the chain tension. Wind it all the way to the loose end of things (anti-clockwise). That screw moves a little pin back that fits into a hole in the chain bar. I think the brake also needs to be off. With my own saw which is a little different in design, I put the chain on the bar first, then when putting the bar back on the saw I loop the chain over the drive sprocket. Then put the cover back on and tighten the chain gradually making sure it rotates smoothly. Glad you liked the video and hope this helps you get it back together again. Dave

[@timbrown2637]

Best video on this saw that I have seen

[@graemepotts-iv1gb]

What actually caused the difficulty with pulling the cord at the start of the video which seems to have been remedied by the end of it?...my faithful 009L has suddenly developed the same problem 🙁

[@DavoShed]

I think I decided in the finish that this saw was simply hard to pull or had high compression. It’s not my saw so I didn’t have the “before shot” to compare. Sometime you pull things apart and when you put them together again the problem is solved. Sorry I don’t have the golden nugget for you.

[@graemepotts-iv1gb]

@@DavoShed thanks for your prompt reply Davo...I enjoyed your excellent video which has inspired me to tackle my collection of "dead" chainsaws ....

[@DavoShed]

@@graemepotts-iv1gb I remember watching a video from a guy called donyboy who said something about the pull cord being hard to pull out. Check out my chain saw sharpening video. They cut like new after that 🤠

[@DavoShed]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/oWjMpoxobcqAm68si=6G4QoBzORSbyms6C KZbin recommended this video to me. Probably should have been to you 🤠 You might get something out of it. Dave

[@waltermaloney1008]

I'm not a mechanic but I've used a bunch of 09's and fix them and so on as a matter of fact I still have and 011 AVT from 1993 that still runs fine

[@andrewclarkacpt]

The screw is actually supposed to be in the vent line believe it or not. Pretty unusual for sure, but it keeps fuel from running out of the tank but still allows it to vent. Like a crude check valve. You can however cut the vent line to about a 1 inch length, put the screw in and the foam tip on, and it can be relocated under the air filter for simplicity sake

[@DavoShed]

Sure does look like an after thought. 🤠 Thanks for the info. From memory I did put the screw back in.

[@billyrossco6556]

that is a great video Dave. I've got that old saw and want to do a clean up tune up on mine. Learned a lot from your video. Was the chain oil blocked? Think I see a second video to get the answer. thanks again.

[@DavoShed]

Glad you liked the video. This one gets mixed responses but I’m really just showing if I can do it you can too 🤠

[@Michel-Artois]

Hi Davo, the very little screw without head in the breather line must be in place so it was .It allows air going to the fuel tank but gazoline cannot flow outside. For your first try to test spark, it seems that simply the stop button was on off position in the video.

[@DavoShed]

Hi Christine, You are very observant :) The switch was in the stop position. It took me a while to figure out how that stop switch actually worked but no excuse. It won’t start with the stop switch on. Ha ha. I didn’t realise what that screw was for. Makes a lot more sense now. It can let the air in slowly but won’t let the fuel run out if the saw is on its side. Thanks for commenting!

[@KaivitiSingh]

You "Davo's Shed" have done so much of EXTRA work of disassembly/'assembly for no reasons. There was nothing wrong with this Chain Shaw apart from spark-plug + air-filter cleaning && smoothing the chain-path ! ! ! If you go back and check your clip at position 11.48 than you will find that your "Spark Switch" is on "KILL" position so you had no spark on the Plug when you tested for it. I find a lot of online clips (by older people) who carry on doing Extra things where as college trained techs are taught about the checks to be made before proceeding further...... So this over 36min clip was just effective 10min for a RRL tech.

[@DavoShed]

Yes I did notice my mistake with the kill switch. I never put myself forward as a trained technician. I really just want to demonstrate that “old” people can pull stuff apart and look for problems and still assemble it again. Do you really watch Davo’s Shed and hope for a polished technical video? My goal is to encourage people not to pay lots of money for repairs or simply throw it out and buy a new one. Thanks for commenting Dave.

[@KaivitiSingh]

@@DavoShed 🎄

[@joemcgraw5529]

When starting the saw put choke on if dosnt start in 2 pulls you have to take the choke off or it will flood

[@robertontiveros946]

Which hose goes to carburator and where that other goes to

[@DavoShed]

I don’t have this saw anymore so I can’t check this for you.

[@robertontiveros946]

@@DavoShed ok thanks please

[@alotl1kevegas860]

Great video. Keep up the good work!

[@DavoShed]

Thanks for the encouragement! I make two kinds of videos. Popular ones and not so. 🤠

[@gregwilson9035]

Davo, that fuel tank breather line goes across behind the carb & down beside the clutch. Remove the RH side plastic cover that holds the cutter bar. There’s a metal plate at about the 1 o’clock position behind the clutch mechanism. Remove the screw and plate. You’ll find the end of the breather with a sponge fitted to the end.

[@DavoShed]

Thanks for the details. That saw has gone back to its owner now. He has it as a backup in case his other three all break :) I just couldn’t stand to see it on his shelf in a non functioning state. I can now also borrow it if my one chainsaw breaks :) Funny this has been by far my most popular video so far. Gotta find more broken chainsaws!

[@MegaDirtyberty]

Right so, that screw in the vent line is supposed to be there, the air travels around the threads and allows the tank to breathe, the bar (they are not called a 'blade') is supposed to have the bluing on the rails, the factory hardens the rails for a longer life. Make sure the air filter is very clean, the diaphragms in the carb are pliable and the intake gaskets are good.

[@chrisrageNJ]

I've got a bar with some heavy bluing and it's about a quarter inch shorter in height than the other factory bar I have (I have two 011s), and it looks like overheating from no bar oil. Not all bluing is on purpose

[@MegaDirtyberty]

@@chrisrageNJ Sure, if the bar is not getting oil. If the factory didn't harden the rails then the bar would wear excessively.

[@DavoShed]

I’ve also seen bars go blue from extremely blunt blades but that’s pretty obvious from all the smoke. Not saying that’s your problem. Thanks for commenting 🤠

[@richardcontant4659]

Always, always try a new spark plug first, even two, juste in case, LOL.

[@DavoShed]

Yep the little bastards can look fine. Been caught by that more than once

[@geoffreykail9129]

I think you had the kill switch in the stop when you first tested it.

[@DavoShed]

It’s a while back now but I think you are right. I have some recollection of that. You’d be the first one to notice :) Umm Ahh I was just clearing the chamber 🤠

[@jimlyndoe2927]

Chainsaws have bars and chains,knives have blades.

[@DavoShed]

What was I thinking 🤠

[@wranglers2]

I just found this video because I have the exact same saw with the exact same problem starting. I checked the plug, it is OK. I cleaned the filter, it is OK. I have spark, but I still have too much compressions starting. Did you ever decide what you did to fix your problem? Someone said on another video, that the pawl needs to be replaced. Can you advise?

[@DavoShed]

Hi Wranglers, I didn’t find the cause of the seemingly high compression problem. Does your start cord pull out easy when the spark plug is removed? I was expecting to find some kind of compression release valve that flicks closed once it starts but could not find one. My other chain saw has this feature. When I pulled the saw in the video apart and put it back together it started ok. Partly I was investigating how it all goes together. I suspected there was a problem with the cut off switch but I was tricking myself. I’m not sure what a “pawl” is. Perhaps a typo or an expression I have not herd before. Good luck. Let me know what you find if you like. I have given that saw back to the owner now.

[@waynewigger9904]

Its called a spark aristor

[@DavoShed]

Thanks Wayne. ;)

[@richardcontant4659]

Without the blade and chain and the cover on, you can see the oil coming out, or not, of the oil port. Just saying. But you already know, of course.

[@DavoShed]

Ha, I never thought to start it with the blade and bar off. So obvious when I think about it.

[@waltermaloney1008]

Just a suggestion learn how this all works and how the parts move before you post a video

[@DavoShed]

I don’t pretend to have all the answers. I’m simply showing what I found when I pulled it apart. Perhaps someone else can solve their own problem after seeing what I found.