Changing axle seal on semi truck at home without all the special tools

Changing axle seal while doing a brake job on my truck. See my other videos on truck and equipment repair.

[@moeosman3517]

Gordon Robinson, I have been driving truck for the last 10 year and I knew nothing about what I learned from you. Your videos help me to become a better drive. I can't express words how much I appreciate you.

[@57bagre]

Thank you sir.

[@jimjones1678]

I have done some auto repair over the years. I love your attention to detail and taking time to clean important parts. A job done right is the best way to go.

[@57bagre]

Thank you Sir.

[@1chevroletcorvette]

Attention to detail? He is a butcher

[@jaker805]

I have found that cursing helps at every stage in this process.

[@57bagre]

Thanks for watching.

[@jasondesouto919]

Cursing seems to help when doing alot of things. Lol

[@allenwinder3644]

An easier way to get that seal off is to put a nut back on the end of the axel and just knock the hub against it as you take it off the axel and the seal will pop right off.

[@1965Gindy]

Sometimes you need to

[@jimmybrown169]

I like to lay my hub down in the break drum Backwards keeps it from moving while you take the seal out and install the new one. I enjoy watching your videos.

[@festus51]

I have just found your channel. Excellent video! I am happy to know that I am not the only person to put seals in with board and hammer. Also you are working outside just like I have too.

[@57bagre]

Thank You Sir. I was a pro car mechanic in the '80s and worked inside, but my truck can't go in my shop. I'm not a pro mechanic anymore but I still do all of my repairs here at home. I'm rebuilding my truck engine right now, subscribe and follow the progress.

[@UBIQUITAR]

Drop that hub upside down into a wheel and thread a nut on there. Then pry that seal out easy

[@JoseHernandez-zm5cy]

Brian Stark drum works too

[@ct381]

Thank you had a wheel speed sensor go out on my truck and because of watching your videos i was able to perform the work myself. This is what old time trucking is all about keep up sharing the videos man they are helpful.

[@VincesEngines]

Great instruction , The manual and sockets are always available and it is good to see it done the old school way with a bit of improvisation .

[@57bagre]

Thanks for watching.

[@dwes8098]

i always tape the threads on the spindle up so as not to damage the new seal. just a little tip. only takes 10 seconds to do.

[@patricioaguayo9088]

I have use a plain claw hammer for these seals,it works great. Just a lil advise. Thank you for sharing.

[@bigpappahemi4263]

Your voice reminds me of my late grandfathers who was also a trucker. Good job on the video and stay safe out there!

[@ronreeves6224]

Better get up to speed about torque on inner nut to preload bearing. Great video up to that point

[@andrewwilson8317]

I was given an old tool for doing those large hub nuts. From the look of it I think it's ex military. It is a tee handle with two v shaped jaws that wind in and out towards each other to suit the size of the nut. It can reach in about seven inches. It looks like a load of torque would bend it but for reaching into hubs to do the big,low torque nuts it's perfect. There is a half inch square on back,probably for a torque wrench. I have never seen one on eBay or in any of the tool catalogues . Bit of a shame as it gets used by me on pretty much all the big hubs I do that use a nut to preload and secure the bearings. One observer once told me a similar tool was used to fit the sealing gland nuts on torsion bar suspension tanks and that would explain the military link. Well worth keeping an eye out for at the flea markets and swap meets.

[@317dougie]

Great video watching from Cupar Scotland

[@57bagre]

Thank You for subscribing all the way from the USA.

[@phillip_mcguinness7025]

Thanks for the video! I'm much less intimidated to change the hub seal on our truck. I like to use 50/50 Diesel and ATF for cleaning. Less vapor inhalation, almost no accidental ignition risk. Solvent and detergent together, easier on seals, has a good shelf life.

[@57bagre]

Thanks for watching Phillip.

[@ht76sonny]

Good job it's good to know how to change the brakes and seals with simple tools, I might have to change out my own one of these days never know but I enjoy learning you made it very clear to understand

[@57bagre]

Thank you Sir.

[@robertotoledo1910]

I always wanted to say Hello, and thank you for the educational information you provide, shout out from Fort myers, Fl Robert, 👋

[@57bagre]

Thanks for the shout out from south Florida Roberto and I do miss Florida from my "OTR" days.

[@akawireguy1197]

As I was watching this hard working man I was thinking about the number of seals and bearings I have replaced in hubs. I have had monstrous loads in my utility trailer and nothing I have ever installed has failed. I just tighten them down very snug to make sure they are seated, back all the way off, snug them and back off just to the first holder tab, or if they are aligned upon snugging (they never are) back off to the next nut flat. It's hard for an honest man to make an honest living.

[@57bagre]

Thanks for watching.

[@martinlavoie4002]

Nice install I like the Chicago rawhide seals my self a lot nice then the Stemco seals where you have to put the slip sleeve over the axle. Anyhow a little tip I do is to put a bit of oil in the hub between both bearings before putting the outer bearing just a little insurance for me that the bearings get oil also don’t forget to top up the diff oil

[@joseperez-vy2xy]

pleasing the hub on the brake drum brings more stability to pull the seal, also to pull the seal out you could use a self tap screw a 2x4 and a carpenter hammer

[@robb118821]

best way ive found to getting seals out is using a long prybar that is square. put the pry bar between seal and bearing and twist the prybar with a big adjustable wrench.

[@robb118821]

dependind on the hub itll pop right out. if not chisel. collaps the seal in. wedge the chisel between seal and hub to move it inward slighly and punch inwards after that. clean up an chips the chisel made on hub.

[@00Blqze]

good idea

[@ipissed]

Slide hammer.

[@jimmylovell4465]

crowfoot prybar two seconds it's out works every time

[@Imwright720]

Awesome thanks. I don’t know if it would help but I place a block or tool on the opposite side under the pry bar to pop seals. Mine aren’t as large as yours put they pop right out.

[@duanethomasdirtpile5737]

This right here children is some old School shit you don't see work being done like this anymore everybody's got the special tool

[@69adrummer]

It's New Years 2018/2019 and I'm sitting here alone on the couch watching a guy replace axle seals on youtube....haha what a life.........ugh! haha

[@57bagre]

I'm home alone getting started on a video taking off the carburetors on my '88 Goldwing 1500 to clean them and debating weather or not to repaint it while it's in my shop. Thanks for watching and Happy new year to you.

[@theangrytruckerchannel359]

I have that same seal puller, works great

[@hillonwheels8838]

I have worked on cars and light trucks for years and seeing you do the brakes and this seal looks way easier than what i'm used to. The hardest part looks to be the weight and size of all the parts. The weight of a light truck hub may weigh 2 lbs where yours looks to be 10+ lbs. Great video, I like to learn new things like this.

[@57bagre]

Thanks for watching and subbing. I have newer videos on brakes that are faster and easier.

[@jonathanwilliams4501]

If you turn the hub with the seal facing down on the drum you can take a hammer and bar and tap the inside race of inside bearing and pop the seal out...and you need to put oil in the hub before you stick it on there so you don’t burn the bearings up...

[@marshallasher4543]

Yep! "thanks Mate" really enjoyed your video, like the way you do it the old tried and easy way; will you make it look easy anyway, so thanks.

[@57bagre]

Thanks for watching Marshall

[@rezzgoatrising1829]

Old school hell yeah..... and I don’t miss doing that at all

[@57bagre]

thanks for watching.

[@mkloppel]

Thank you for this video. The hub seal on my IHC 4700 tossed oil everywhere and I hadn't the slightest clue how to fix it. Seems like a very easy job.

[@jesusian7]

Mine is going now on my IHC

[@thatlowesguy5544]

Thank You for this extremely helpful video sir. I was stuck on a military installation and no mechanic was able to get to me. I knew I had enough technical knowhow in performing the job myself when I blew a seal but your video helped totally clear up a lot of my second guesswork. I was 100 times more confident in performing this task myself and it turned out great and safe. I decided to go ahead an replace both bearings while I was at it since they had seen better days. It's people like you who give power back to the every day trucker. Because of your selfless service our independent way of life will live on. God bless and many thanks for your time and effort you put into making this video.

[@57bagre]

Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@miguelaguilar9605]

Gordon Robertson DIY tnks sr all your videos is very helpful tnks again.

[@XxSedyanxX]

Inner lock nut is meant to pull hub and seal farther on the spindle is it not?

[@smenh1]

If you put the hub in the drum when you take the seal out it will help hold it

[@lobitosanchez4045]

good job buddy, thanks .. !!!

[@57bagre]

Thank you Sir.

[@Larry-cp3uy]

That dirty hub was supposed to be cleaned BEFORE replacing the (freshly washed and inspected bearing) and installing a new seal, that way no dirt will get into the bearing or inside the hub as that dirty hub is being washed. Then everything is clean and ready to be installed back onto the axle. Also, the FORD factory Service manual recommends packing the bearing with wheel bearing grease (which will later be dissolved into the gear oil), so the bearing will have lubrication until the gear oil has a chance to refill the hub properly. Just my 2 cents :)

[@mikev7987]

Larry Kuzyk your $0.02 is worthless here... First of all - this isnt a little ford, second - the bearings in drive axles on a class 8 truck are lubricated in an oil bath shared with the rear differential and you don't pack them with grease.

[@Larry-cp3uy]

Well my friend, first of all, the manufacturers of the class 8 trucks you refer to do not manufacture the drive axles themselves, but rather, they install third party items, the most common of which are Rockwell and Eaton, to name a few drive axle manufacturers. This also applies to the diesel engines, suspensions, brake components and transmissions as well, as I'm absolutely sure you're well aware of. Gee, since when does Peterbilt, Freightliner, Ford, Kenworth, Volvo, etc, build a rear end? One exception to this is Mack, who manufactures and installs their own drive axles and diesel engines, but I cannot comment on their transmissions. I believe they build/install their own transmissions too. So to say a Ford is a 'small' truck when Ford installs the same components such as Drive axles, Transmissions, Suspensions, and Diesel engines (as per customer request) as any other Manufacturer in the country, seems to me to be an uninformed and very short sighted comment. Obviously a biased comment against Ford which is amusing. Actually, I was never a fan of Ford as far as a Car manufacturer, (and still not), but when comparing the construction quality of my Ford L Series Tandem Cab and Frame (these are the only manufacturer specific items, generally speaking) against the others such as Pete and Freightliner, (who seem to be dominating truck sales in my local area) it is the superior product, even though Ford does not manufacture Trucks any longer. The engines, suspensions, transmissions of the said trucks are identical, so there's not much of a comparison to be had in those regards. Secondly, of course anyone who knows Trucks to any degree, knows that wheel bearings on drive axles are lubed with the same lube that lubes the differential gears, which you refer to as Oil bath. I agree totally, how could I not. Read my post again, I stated that the Ford SERVICE MANUAL, not me, (I had no contributions to the content of said Publication), suggests packing the wheel bearings in grease (WHICH WILL LATER BE DISSOLVED INTO THE GEAR OIL) to ensure the wheel bearing are well lubricated until such time as the rear end lube has a chance to migrate to the bearings. According to the Manual, This procedure applies to ALL ROCKWELL AND EATON rear ends, REGARLESS OF SIZE, which have been installed on any Ford L- Series truck. These are NOT small trucks. This is a Ford publication remember. I actually like this pre-greasing idea and have adopted it into my own maintenance regime as and added degree of superior maintenance. Thirdly, the idea of my post was to say that the Hub shown in the video, (where the wheel seal had obviously been leaking for a very long time to allow the accumulation of THAT much dirt), should have been cleaned PRIOR to installing the bearing and seal....I couldn't believe my eyes. AND also, who lets the outer bearing sit outside all night with the breeze blowing dust and dirt onto the bearing covered in oil, and not even rinse and/or clean it prior to replacement? Of course this job got done, and the truck still drove down the road with gritty bearings and all, not the end of the world, but c'mon, if you're going to make a video, have some pride in your work. Another 2 cents.

[@christopherwilliams4647]

Your install isn’t scary, and I’m trying to be as nice as possible.

[@57bagre]

Thanks for watching.

[@IndianTruckWorkshop]

Great work buddy 👍👍👍

[@benni9462]

hi sir Gordon i love youre videos allways good info how and what Tim Taylor sure only works on trucks with only pro tools we use what we have and are good for the job

[@57bagre]

Thank you sir and thanks for subbing.

[@benni9462]

NP sir i been working on trucks and Excavator me self for 17 years I Nerver use pro tools they are costly And you can get the job done anyways Rock on Cordon

[@zaidchalabi1599]

how do you see leak ? on back of tire on drum

[@rcracer641]

I really liked your video. Thanks.

[@57bagre]

Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@arnoldramos39]

Mr. Robertson, is there a way of checking the hub oil level without removing the wheel and brake drum? Or is it the same oil that goes in the differentials

[@57bagre]

It's the same oil as the differential.

[@arnoldramos39]

Gordon Robertson thank you sir

[@arguswil]

Extremely helpful video

[@57bagre]

Thanks for watching.

[@myrnapagan3280]

Hola Mr Gordon. how do you know you seals are bad? im having problem with my semi and dont know its the seal or the bearings .

[@57bagre]

Hola Myrna; If you have a seal leaking, you will be able to see oil getting on the brakes and can smell it as well. If you don't live too far from me you can use the email and contact me and come by my shop. [e-mail]

[@bcmc]

Why didn't you ever show the finished 60 series running after the rebuild

[@57bagre]

I did, there's 14 parts to the rebuild series, plus a recap video, and a fan clutch video after the rebuild, go to my channel and click on videos and it's on the last 3 videos at the time of this message. Or click on playlists and save a copy of the playlist of the series.

[@FernandoRodriguez-wu9hc]

great video helped me a lot keep up the good work thanks, I need to replace the rear main seal of my 12.7 detroit on a 2003 freightliner century do you have a video of something like that?

[@57bagre]

Thanks for the comment. No I don't have a video on the rear main seal, but the bulk of that job is getting the clutch down, and then the flywheel off, the flywheel looks heavy but it isn't (maybe 60 to 80 lbs.) maybe you can find a clutch video, I don't have one yet, do you have a truck transmission jack? I have done a clutch on that truck before, you can msg. me for help if you decide to do that job.

[@FernandoRodriguez-wu9hc]

Thanks I do have some equipment not the best but just to get the job done. Thanks for your videos they really help a lot keep up the great job.

[@FernandoRodriguez-wu9hc]

I think I'm going to start on the rear main seal like on the ends of December.

[@57bagre]

I hope you live in a warm area, unless you have a heated shop. Where I live is to cold to do that at the end of December (St. Louis area) if you're in the U.S. you'll know where that is. with good tools and experience, you'll need about 10 - 14 hours and the clutch parts cost about $800.00

[@tshaunscales8086]

@@57bagre Where did you find your manual to rebuild your engine?

[@michaelcrowe3017]

what you installed my good sir appeared to be a "cr" seal judging by the green. that seal design runs within itself. it is meant to be installed dry between seal and spindle. it is not intended to rotate between seal and spindle but between its own internal sealing surfaces. lubrication between these surfaces, imo, could cause premature failure.?!!

[@57bagre]

I've done 3 of those the same way in the last 15 years on that truck and not the same location twice, the 1st one was 1 or 2 years after I bought it, the 2nd about 8 years ago, the 4th not done yet but probably not too long from now, now that I have 1.5 million miles on it. The seal lip does ride on the surface of the axle housing, I would never put a seal in dry and take a chance on burning it up. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@brucep5872]

Thank you, very informative and great step by step explanations.

[@57bagre]

Thank you Sir.

[@robb118821]

did you not pre load the bearings? those bearings are likely going on very loose. its much easier to do it by feel with a ratchet and socket if a tq wrench isnt available. using this method can be very dangerous.

[@b.altorany791]

Thank u sir. Great job

[@dennisgood2108]

I notice you are using white paper towels i believe.Would you coment if so.I use a lot of paper towels also,the blue ones and white.I know the white ones are a lot cheaper to buy.Thanks

[@57bagre]

Yes I use white paper when I'm not worried about lint getting into the parts where it could cause trouble, the blue disposable shop towels are less likely to leave lint and fragments behind but are expensive and I don't buy them, I just use cloth rags for that. Thanks for subscribing.

[@dennisgood2108]

Thanks for the reply,i was just wondering because i go thru a lot of paper towels

[@eieio-mn9pm]

dennis good veterans thrift store sell ya a bag o rags for cheap ....I wash em several times

[@SFtruckerWolf]

If have casett bearing then tightening is different also bearing is not coming out in parts. But on casett bearing just tighten so hard what can. I hammer it tight with 3000 Nm air gun. Not some other locking there.

[@45bam]

Idk but that back yard style. I would use torque trench to adjust my bearing. Doing by feel kind of stupid.

[@JoiRideProductions]

@Robert Condon Pretty normal to do it by feel in a shop.

[@gutierrezgorila]

I have done maybe 100 times wheel seals with out using torque tools. No problems so far. And I don't think is stupid

[@joshhead9368]

Just out of curiosity do you guys check end play with a dial after you're all tightened up. Or can you get that by feel aswell? Seems like it would be easy to put it too tight without checking.

[@billyadams9985]

@@joshhead9368 I don't but I know u should... Anyone else notice his outer nut was kind of loose?

[@Gordonptrs]

2:33 the Big Nut has at Mercedes Citaro in Germany !!!1200nm!!! and u solve it with an screwdriver xDDDDDDD

[@redomkhan5455]

Master mind truck mechanic...

[@57bagre]

Thanks for watching.

[@juanenriquez2193]

Chulada de trabajo. good Job

[@jerzyrob21]

if you sit the hub in the brake drum it makes it alot easier

[@57bagre]

Too late now. Thanks for watching. Happy New Year.

[@jasonbrown1237]

I just subed. great video of some old school diy o/o work

[@57bagre]

Thanks for subbing.

[@92hbhb]

Stumbled on this video, good watch...

[@57bagre]

Thanks.

[@ДальнобойвАмерике-ъ4т]

If you use press washer to clean hub it is much easier.

[@vladimirtruckerus]

Nice video. Two questions. To put oil back to axle, is it from hub or middle of axles? And how many gallons of oil is in your axle? Thank you.

[@57bagre]

There's a plug on the differential just like on a pickup or a rear wheel drive car if I remember right it's on the right front side and takes a 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar, just take out the plug on level ground, put your finger in the hole if you can get any oil on your finger, you have enough, if you can't call your dealer to find out what kind of oil it calls for and buy a few quarts with the pointed top squeeze bottle and return what you don't need. fill the diff. until it starts to come out of the hole, if it's an inch low, not to worry, it's good. Thanks for the comment ( I don't know how much it holds, maybe 3 gallons if empty) if you jack up the side to work on high enough, you wont lose any oil to speak of (bottom of tire 3 or 4 inches off the ground)

[@vladimirtruckerus]

Thank you.

[@cbmech2563]

Vladimir Mineev Just before you install the outer bearing, fill the low area with gear oil and check axle oil level when you're done. I also coat the bearings with grease to protect them when you first start moving.

[@bashirpaikar1326]

Best video ever thank!

[@57bagre]

Thanks for watching.

[@wesvodkov6124]

I use a big punch and just punch those out from the inside. The seal and bearing

[@stenyang2007]

When you take off oil seal,I think you made some damage to bearing。

[@henryostman5740]

Interesting and I am guilty myself. How did the world get along b4 they invented brake cleaner? what's in it anyways? Is brand x they same as brand y? God help us if this stuff was patented by snapon or mac.

[@57bagre]

Yep, it's good stuff. Thanks for watching.

[@td3866]

Torque to specs Mr

[@feeneysmechanical6215]

Put the hub face down in the drum. The weight of the drum will keep it from moving.

[@MichaelMajor-rx1md]

GREG Feeney I don't understand what you mean? the hub was wasn't it?

[@foureyednotchstang]

As a owner operator with 39 nine years of wrenching on semi trucks this video makes me cringe. You really should buy the proper axle nut socket. With the socket, breaker bar, and a 3 foot pipe you will be able to put some serious torque on that outer nut.

[@timothykissinger4883]

foureyednotchstang I did the same thing he did on a 1975 Ford Econoline.I used simple tools like a screwdriver ,chisel and hammer.I was replacing a wheel bearing and later on down the road the axle came out while I was driving.Not enough York on the outer nut.,I guess.

[@billymyers9630]

Dude Hamer and punch

[@billestep6804]

jonny cash you should torgue it I think 50 to 80 pounds. I don't how you can know the torgue using a hammer and chisel

[@samuelavila2228]

How much torque should be put on the axle flange nuts?

[@57bagre]

50 ft lbs pre load on 1st lock nut then back it off 1/4 turn or a little less and then the lock ring and the 2nd lock nut, torque the 2nd lock nut to 200 and fold the lock ring tabs.

[@arguswil]

Being a mechanic can be compared to a math problem. All that matters is getting the correct answer.

[@57bagre]

Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@bottledwater2539]

just wonder why you dont use sandblaster/baking soda blaster to clean this up?

[@cbmech2563]

Bottled water Because you don't want to add that kind of debris to the bearing?

[@Repent.Believe.obeyJesus]

Because he is just a diy guy doesn't work in a real shop

[@18wheelerzdavid]

the owl isn't amused

[@Big_Loo]

Gear oil...I can smell this video.

[@AJSenju]

Stand the axle straight up as to not damage the teeth

[@stevenarchuleta4632]

I wish this could be a tribe. We're we could have a fundamental relationship. The next gold rush

[@MrPaveles]

What kind of bottle jack you're using and where to get one?

[@57bagre]

The air bottle jack can be found at Harbor Freight, northerntool.com or Amazon.com or any automotive tool supply. The straight bottle jack can be found at Home Depot, Lowes, and at the previous mentioned stores. your best prices will be at Harbor Freight and Amazon, if you don't have a store near you, both of them will ship it to you. here's a link to my video on jacking up a big truck,kzbin.info/www/bejne/i4G0emqPqtGUa5o Thanks for watching.

[@ReDRuM868]

A lot of bad information in this video. I work on these trucks for a living. The TMC (Technology & maintenance council) outlined a procedure for wheel bearing adjustment for heavy duty trucks for a reason, because wheel hubs coming off became an epidemic from people performing bearing adjustments without the proper knowledge or tools. You do NOT use a screwdriver or a chisel to run up bearing nuts, this is not an acceptable alternative to using axle nut sockets. You first use a TORQUE WRENCH and preload the adjusting nut (inner nut) to 200 ft lbs while rotating the wheel/hub, then back off a full turn, THEN you readjust the adjusting nut to 50 ft lbs while rotating wheel/hub and BACK IT OFF (according to a chart based off of threads per inch and if it is a drive axle, steer or trailer axle) which in the case of this truck would be 1/4 turn. You then align the dowel with the dowel pin on the adjustment nut, put the tang on and then the jam nut. The jam nut torque when you have a dowel washer is 300-400 ft lbs of torque. You will never achieve that with a hammer and chisel (or screwdriver) and will never know what your torque value is. You then use a DIAL INDICATOR to measure the ENDPLAY of the hub which must be within .001"-.005" (thousandths of an inch). Then fold the tabs on the tang where the flats line up (usually 2 or 3). I in no way am posting this information for someone to use, you need to get the TMC procedure which is very easy to download online. I am not trying to crap on the guy who made the video, but I have seen enough damage to spindles and have heard of enough accidents because or improper adjustment to these bearings because people get killed when these hubs come off and can start bouncing around the highway like a basketball and land in someones windshield. If you do this procedure like it is done in this video and someone gets killed and you have to answer in court and have to explain how you did this procedure you are going to be in big trouble. Take your truck to a professional you trust for this kind of work. I am not against guys doing their own work to save some money but stuff like this is a safety issue. Also a wheel seal needs to be driven in with a proper seal driver, using a wooden board is just comical. Don't be surprised if it leaks again.

[@57bagre]

I covered all that with notes on the video, this is one of my 1st videos and lost some of the clips and didn't know it and forgot to say a lot of things, I didn't know the notes only show up on desktop and laptop, and that most people don't use them anymore. I'm planning to redo the video sometime this summer (only the nut tightening part with a socket) I'll still use the clips for the seal, I'm not going to waste the seal for another video, I'll redo it when I can bring it home for some other maintenance.

[@johnmiller2268]

Tim Taylor Correct sir! Very well stated. And don't forget to perform your RIST procedure, oil studs and nuts with 30w oil, and torque lugs to 450-500 ft lbs according to TIA(Tire Industry of America) guidelines.

[@R1Kyle]

Yes I agree. Also that Jam nut socket can be purchased for less then $30. It is vital to doing the job right. You do not oil or wet the outer seal surface. That is what that green paint is for on it! Oiling it adds another tolerance which is not good!

[@MyDeeroc]

Tim Taylor u hating

[@R1Kyle]

Why would you consider the plain truth hating. Getting this wrong could only cost some innocent motorist there life all for the want of a < $30.00 socket.

[@davidcraven277]

You mite want to change the diff fluid black is not a good color for 80/90 1st it's past it's service life

[@Big_Loo]

Dude...that stuff is almost black when it's brand new.

[@danielkennedy1524]

Excellent advise! Thank you!

[@57bagre]

Thank you Sir.

[@markmartin5018]

You're only supposed to hit the outer edge of the seal

[@oliverdiaz8804]

how do you put the oil on it??

[@57bagre]

You're supposed to put a little oil in the hub before you put the axle back in, but if the bearing is wet with oil and the differential is full or real close to full as soon as you drive away the differential will pump oil to the hub.

[@rooste2]

I was a truck mechanic for over 40 years . There are so many things wrong with this video . Do not follow his instructions on anything. This is a video on what not to do.

[@Iwished4]

Did y'all see that husky long flat head screwdriver, yeah and you so called mechanics are still fighting over Mac and Snap on over who's better.

[@nathanwardlow1342]

The Paws doesnt news to be snap on or Mac but the right tool for the job is always the best answer this way is dangerous

[@robertobriant3621]

We mechanics buy the Snap on and Mac tools as an investment that we can sell to someone else later on when we retire from wrenching. It's not that we can't do our work with a cheaper tool. We love our work well enough to make a quality investment in it. I started out with Craftsman and Pittsburgh tools. As I moved up the ladder, I bought higher quality tools. Last year I paid them all off and haven't bought any new tools for seven months. How much do you care about your job to invest in it?

[@ricardolosada8195]

Debe usar las herramientas adecuadas. 😎😎😨😬😱

[@allywilkeforsenate]

I didn't even break a nail,because I cursed the whole way.

[@semitrucker]

Lol. No!!! Torque lock nuts. Losing 100 lb hub assembly is bad

[@57bagre]

You think I should re-do it? it's been 4 years, maybe it'll fall off tomorrow.

[@ricardolosada8195]

Pakistáni truck? 😀

[@StayingBack71]

Tim taylor and the rest of you who think everyone should have every tool to do a job, Tim Go back to your video game...As for the rest of you perfectionists......Gordon has inspired so many people..... he does more work and completes more tasks than most of you can ever do. Gordon is the True Warrior here... Never makes excuses, And Gives his best whereas many of you are calling a technician....Then again,Gordon knows you Nazi's would show up.

[@feeneysmechanical6215]

Use vasoline on the seal when installing them.

[@skeetersaurus6249]

Best assembly lube ever invented, vaseline! I've built more gas engines using vaseline, than I can count. Cheap, dependable, and once it heats up, it melts right out of the engine and mixes into your engine oil, for removal on first oil-change. Pure petroleum jelly, can't beat it for mechanic work.

[@rolandomendez5650]

Estoy viendo el video con todo respeto esta persona se ha puesto hacer 1 trabajo y no sabe.

[@57bagre]

Todavia sirve perfecto despues casi 3 anos y no es la primera vez que hize asi por este camion, ya hize 2 otros por el otro lado hace unos 14 anos y todavia estan bien. A lo mejor no se nada, pero todo mi trabajo sirve perfecto por yo mismo.

[@stevenarchuleta4632]

You can be my dad as well.

[@oilfieldtrucker4868]

I hear a dove

[@christophercudia8354]

funny your pounding one side back

[@brazidas58]

please use work gloves

[@jessecoleman6533]

Using wrong tool

[@kingralph9133]

I guess you don't know what a seal driver is 🙄

[@cesarcastaneda4559]

no. no. no.

[@bpetnoi1472]

NO. no. no. WHAT? The only thing about this video which left me unsettled is the improper seating of the bearings. Please be specific as no. no. no. means nothing.

[@jasond5405]

Did you really just finger tighten the spindle nut???? You are guaranteed to have problems because your bearings are out of adjustment from the very start!!! But then again you ALWAYS clean the hub before installing the bearings and seal and contaminate everything with dirt and sand!! You are not helping anybody in this video including yourself.

[@jasond5405]

I don't know if you might think I came off as a asshole in my previous comment? But I wasn't trying for that. I'm just terrified of you showing people to do it this way when if someone is watching this and copy what you are doing that they most likely have never installed races and bearings before and the reason to tighten the shit out of the spindle nut and the back it off is to make sure that the bearings and races are fully seated!!! Not to mention have a preload!! And If they take out a seal like you did and if the truck has a brass ABS ring it will be all tore up with broke off teeth!!! If someone doesn't even have a hammer and a punch to take out a seal? Then they have absolutely no business working on a truck.

[@57bagre]

I had captions explaining all that but YT said they will remove captions I think in January this year. I plan to re do this video and add a link of it to this video. As for the way I tightened it, I did the 1st one that way about 15 years ago on the other side and the other axle on that side about 10 years ago and this one coming up on 3 years ago. I agree it's not the best way to show people with no experience and that's why I do plan to do a correction video. By the way, Hand tight? both of the other hubs came OFF (not lost but removed) this way and my dump truck did too, so it's a lot tighter than you give credit for. Thanks for watching.

[@DigitalFrank666]

Funny

[@russianbot1987]

Ur not to tight

[@feeneysmechanical6215]

Find me on Facebook and the pm. I will then give you my phone number and I can explain further. My profile picture has me standing next to a wrecker .