Charge Your RV WITHOUT Solar or a Generator // Alternator Charging // Off-Grid Power

How To Get Power in your RV without SOLAR! Charge from your alternator!
We discuss the steps needed to set up and install an alternator charging system (DC-DC Charger) in your RV. We have dual alternators and installed dual Renogy DC-DC Alternator Chargers in our NuCamp Cirrus Truck Camper. We share the process we went through and how it works. This system allows us to charge our 600AH Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) Battery Bank at 40-80 amps while the truck is running. Since we drive a lot while we travel, this is now our main source of power.
At this point, we will probably get rid of our generator and add a few solar panels for the few times that we stay still for more than a few days at a time.
👕If you're looking for Truck Camping T-Shirts, check out this site:
✅ www.travelmoti...
This post contains affiliate links. If you use these links to buy something we may earn a commission. Thank you for your support!
These are most of the items that we mentioned in the video. If we missed something, please let us know in the comments!
✅ Renogy 40A DC to DC Battery Charger: amzn.to/2Xq8SDg
✅ Renogy DCC50S 12V 50A DC Battery Charger with MPPT: amzn.to/2MQaPa7
✅ Spartan Battery Cable Set: amzn.to/2UHfsUu
✅ TEMCo Hammer Lug Crimper: amzn.to/2IXixh1
✅ 4 Gauge Pure Copper Cable Wire: amzn.to/32YZfyn
✅ 10pcs 4 Gauge 3/8 Pure Copper UL Listed Cable Lug: amzn.to/2UJQunp
✅ Young Marine Circuit Breaker: amzn.to/3nM8Y3j
✅ Tinned Pure Copper UL Listed Cable Lug: amzn.to/39099Up
✅ Marinco 12VCPS3 70A Trolling Motor Plug/Receptacle- amzn.to/3nIjqc8
✅ Southwire 750F Infrared Thermometer Temperature Range -4F to 752F : amzn.to/3kOvnep
✅ Southwire Clamp Meter 400A AC/DC: amzn.to/3kKWua1
✅ 4 Stud Power Distribution Block BUSBAR With Cover: amzn.to/3k51as1
✅ 4 Gauge Ferrules (I needed to cut the red plastic off to make them fit):
amzn.to/384aesq
And if you have any other questions, please leave a comment and we will be sure to respond!
As always, thank you for watching!
🌟 See how we used to use our generator
• Inverter Installation ...
🌟 We also made a video about our 5 Boondocking Essentials. Check it out if you haven't seen it yet!
• 5 Boondocking Essentia...
We are a travel couple and explore full time in our NuCamp Cirrus 920 Truck Camper. The camper rides in our Ram 3500 Dually Diesel CrewCab truck. We love our camper and we are excited to share our life with all of you!
Our plan is to continue traveling for another 5 years at least, we are just getting started. Subscribe and follow our adventures around North America and the World!
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#fulltimetravel #drycamping #nucampcirrus #truckcamperlife #truckcamper #travelcouple #boondocking #truckcamperliving #boondockingtips #alternator #alternitiveenergy #offgrid #drycamping #generator #LiFePO4 #Lithium

[@o0Enmity0o]

Thanks for the video, I am about to undertake the installation of my own DC-DC charger and found it very helpful. Your a brave man to have your water pump mounted over your inverter and other electronics, that would be keeping me awake at night!

[@Stonyboot]

Good luck with your install! That water/electricity mixture was temporary and has been remedied. I’ll have an update code coming soon, I just got side tracked with other projects. The new video will cover where I moved the inverters and chargers to and my new 1200 AH battery bank. It’s pretty cool stuff 😎, now I just need the time to make a video of it!

[@normnilsson7208]

awesome, AWESOME !!! You did this so perfectly - I love that you showed temperature, Voltages and Currents, in and out, graphs, charts, WOW, you really did your homework, massive THANK YOU !!!

[@Stonyboot]

I’m glad you enjoyed the details! Thanks for watching 😊

[@gardnergerry1182]

Scott, don’t replace the copper lugs, just spray some Fluid Film on them and don’t worry about corrosion. $15 at Lowe’s.

[@Stonyboot]

That’s a great idea! I was thinking about liquid electrical tape, but Fluid Film is pretty useful too 😊

[@charcoalgriller]

I’m a little too terrified of mounting water over electronics myself. One of the more comprehensive install explanations. Overall worth the time. Thanks!

[@mikesnifferpippets3733]

I was thinking that too, at least PEX is pretty reliable. I would have also considered adding some kind of circulation fan where the chargers/batteries are

[@SkypowerwithKarl]

The one thing I’ve learned over the years is, it’s not a matter of if a RV water pump leaks but when. So much so that I built a catch pan under it with a cheap 9v battery powered moisture alarm. The proximity of all that $$$$ electrical makes me uneasy. Also all that heat generating equipment in such a confined space may be a concern, perhaps more so further south in warmer climates. I’d be considering some ventilation, perhaps a thermostatically controlled fan into the interior. Two small louvered openings(one with a small fan) at opposite end of your battery/electric compartments. Keeping the vents small will help keep the fan noises contained. Other than that you have caught all the electrical nuances for your lithium system.

[@Stonyboot]

Excellent points! I never mentioned it in the video, but that was a temporary solution due to time constraints and a lack of parts. That water/electric issue has been solved, I just haven't made an update video yet. I was also concerned with the heat generation issue, but after many hours of testing, it stays quite cool in there. For reasons that would be hard to explain in a comment, that compartment is large and well ventilated. I have made some changes and will be doing an update video in the future and I'll be sure to explain how the air flow works. One aspect I haven't been able to test is when the weather hits 90-100f. In that case, I might use a small fan to supplement air flow. I have a couple other projects to finish and then I'll get back to work on the charging system. Stay tuned :)

[@elmo4vt1]

Another great video by a new watcher/subscriber. As an EE, it's rare I see a video like this with no technical errors and a lot of good information. Great job with both content and editing guys

[@Stonyboot]

Thank you very much!

[@wolfgangmozartSM2032]

Wow, Scott -- You're a frk'n genius. I've long thought that I could use the alternator of a motor to power up electrical systems in my day-dreaming of living on the road, but I had no idea of how to do that, but now, thanks to you, Scott, I have a clear pathway of creating that! But, first, I gotta buy a truck and a camper shell before setting up anything -- no cart before a horse, right? *grin* It won't be until early in 2022 before I could start to make my moves in the direction of RV-ing.

[@Stonyboot]

It’s been working really well. At some point I’ll make another video about my power system.

[@bob_frazier]

Thanks for convincing me that this is more complicated than I want to ever tackle!

[@ramonmirabal101]

Hi just watch your video I have 2014 Roadtrek Agile and added Added 600 amps lithium new Houghtong air conditioning, 3000 Victron inverter, 3 Victron dc to dc 30 amps each total 90 amps engine running , 300 amps solar we sleep two nites with the a/c on all nite long after two days we still have above 27% plus two refrigerator. Extremely happy with the outcome. My alternator 250 amps.

[@Stonyboot]

That sounds like an awesome setup! What do you think about the temperatures of the Victron Orion chargers? They get very hot!

[@ramonmirabal101]

@@Stonyboot No

[@rowanlocke9376]

Here in Australia we go alternator first for charge usually throughout dcdc charger with the ability to run solar through it as well what I use is a enerdrive dcdc with green power

[@Stonyboot]

I think DCDC first is a great strategy! You're already running the truck, you might as well tap into that power source. I'll be adding some additional solar to supplement our power when we are stationary for more than a few days! Thanks for the comment! Where in Australia are you from? We want to take a long trip there soon!

[@rowanlocke9376]

@@Stonyboot I’m in Queensland if you look up my other channel Veterans Adventures Australia I have a few clips of some of my trips around Queensland,very basic videos of some of the places we go but it’s a start

[@Stonyboot]

I'll check it out. Australia was my original dream destination when I was about 8 years old. I'll get there someday, but I want to have plenty of time, not just a 2 week trip.

[@russ3580]

Well done! We are doing similar (having done actually) with our camper van. You describe some of the details better than any other videos I have seen.

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks. I have an update video coming soon with some changes I made and to share how it’s been working.

[@qpoole90]

Really enjoyed the thoroughness and detail of this video.. I just installed a dc-dc charger in my truck camper (before seeing this video) and to avoid the 3 prong connector, I used a Anderson connector and I ran the ignition sensing wire to my tail light wire (night lights) on the truck camper. So if I want the dc-dc turned on, I just turn on the truck lights and it sends the power to the ignition wire and turns on the connector. That way I can turn it off if I am stuck in traffic or idling for a long period.

[@Stonyboot]

Thank you! I considered doing the same thing with the tail lights, however, I didn't like the fact that I couldn't control each charger independently and that I wouldn't be able to turn them off at night. Later, I found out about wireless 12v switches that would have been perfect, but it's built and working well, I might as well stick with it :) Thanks for the comment!

[@gregsnyder6153]

Your technical expertise and initiative are amazing. And you explain it so well. Happy traveling. I will follow you.

[@Stonyboot]

Thank you and thanks for watching!

[@donf3877]

Luckily, with a 34 foot Class A, I don't have the space limitations you have... so I went an even bigger triple supply route. I usually stay the limit when boondocking, so there's 2385 watts (9x265 wired three sets of three in series) of solar on the roof and no AC units to get in the way of the layout (went with mini-split heat pumps, 12,000 BTU in the front and 9,000 in the bedroom. Both running full blast use 70% of just one RV type AC unit!). In addition, there is a 3100 watt Champion inverter generator that, if needed, can supply the power to run the motorhome while still providing some charging to the batteries (I gutted an old roll around 60 amp battery charger). I also installed an additional 135 amp alternator dedicated to charging the house batteries while driving, even though I usually limit myself to 150 miles or less a day. With warm-up and miles and cool down the engine is still running around 4-5 hours. Why waste it, right?! I wish I could downsize, since it's only me, but my requirements prohibit that. I HAVE to have a bathtub (with 110 degree water) to soak the pain away every night to be able to sleep, and in the morning to be able to hike . There are two additional 38 gal water tanks in the pass-thru of the basement. Through several electric solenoid valves, and an additional water pump and heater to keep the soak system totally separate, I draw water from one tank, and drain into the other tank. Then through more solenoid valves, I pump the water back into the supply tank for the next time. I don't wash, just soak, when using the system... so a cap full of bleach keeps the water fresh for 2 - 2 1/2 weeks. Hey... we do what we have to if we want to be out there enjoying ourselves, right???

[@Stonyboot]

THAT is an awesome setup! Where are you located, I would love to check it out someday! Space is our biggest limitation, we can get about 600 watts of solar on the roof, which we will do in the future, but that wasn't enough to keep up with our needs, especially if we got a cloudy day or a shady camp spot. Running our computers and electronics is our lifeline. Redundant power is essential for us. Sounds like you have a great setup. Do you have any pictures or videos you can share with us on Facebook or email?

[@donf3877]

@@Stonyboot The panels I have are commercial units (a lot beefier construction) bought used, so they are as browned over as they will get. If you can, try to get the same size and manufacture when you buy your panels. It's much easier to wire them to your advantage. Mine are mounted three on each side up front long ways with 14" between them for cleaning, and three behind the bathroom skylight sideways over the bedroom. Wired three sets of three in series really helps, since they are fixed mount. Less than a half hour after sunup the charge controllers are already switching on, and I get up to 120 volts from each set mid-day. Gotta love those MPPT controllers! I actually built an aluminum catwalk between the panels up front after I realized they were shading the roof and cutting down on heat gain from the sun!!! I'm stuck down in Florida for the time. Had lung cancer surgery at the VA, half the right side, but they couldn't get it all (too close to the throat). Went through 6 1/2 weeks of daily radiation treatments. I'm halfway through a four dose one every three weeks chemo treatment now. Once that's over with... got a little work to do on the old girl. She ate the cam (chevy 454's are known for that). Installing a RV roller cam and roller rockers for more power and less wear. Then a low rise aluminum intake and Holley fuel injection. Redoing the exhaust, too. Headers and dual 3" exhaust with straight through semi mufflers. That will probably take me through the end of summer. Just in time to head across the bottom on I-10 and get out west again. I subscribed to your channel, so maybe we can hook up in the fall!!! I don't do much with pictures and videos of my equipment... like to leave no footprints. But, I might video the engine work... who knows.

[@donf3877]

@@Stonyboot Just thought... If you get smaller panels, cover the roof. Then, you might make a rack that could hold more panels that would be attached to the side of the camper while traveling, but could free stand on the ground once you're stopped. You could almost double the amount of panels!!!

[@4XPEDITION]

Scott, that blew my mind. Way to go.

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks for watching, I'm glad you liked it. Not perfect, but its been keeping the power flowing for a few months now!

[@ZiggZagg11]

It reminds me of the, "One thing doesn't belong here"... I know you know,... and realize you are limited in your utility space... I am referring to the water lines and water pump in the same space as all that electronics... :)

[@Stonyboot]

100% agree. The real story was that moving the pump wasn't part of the plan. It was originally separated from the electrical side. I had a hard time limit on the project and I had to just get it done. I have since fixed the problem and will have an update video out in the future.

[@BillWhetstone]

That was my first thought as well. Having had a number of RV's over many years, the water pump was the most common relacement tiem, and it will always result in some leakage.

[@Stonyboot]

I use foam as a temporary measure, and then rebuilt the system. I just never made a video. Sometimes ya just run out of time for making a video.

[@ucandoit101]

Thanks guys , your video helps me a lot on my 3500 long bed Promaster van conversion project I'm working on now, it is my first try and I learn as I go.

[@Stonyboot]

I'm glad to hear it was helpful. We made another video with some updates to the project called "Breakers vs. Fuses", It might shed some additional light on the problems I ran into after this video was released.

[@kraisydave]

Exactly the video I've been needing! Thank you so much for taking the effort and sharing all those details. 2014 Livin Lite 6.8 truck camper

[@jaddkay1]

This is pure gold!

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks!

[@MrJfred78]

Thank you for all of the information. Especially for the bus bar at the battery, I have been looking for a multiple connection battery terminal and haven't really liked anything I've seen. I don't know why, but I hadn't thought to just move the connections to a bus bar. Great idea!

[@brentmcmahon8188]

I used 6 ga pure cooper and not going to a bigger cable to keep charger from pulling to much and so far it has been great .

[@jackb9812]

Pretty impressive setup! The only issue is long term idling is one of the worst things you can do with the Diesel engine.

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks fir watching. That’s a great point, and to clarify, we never idle it to charge. It’s only while driving. The most idling we do is while driving in traffic. The hour idle test that I mentioned in the video was simply for testing heat buildup while not moving. Luckily, the alternators never got too hot!

[@healthfullivingify]

Thanks a lot, Scott and Sasha for making this excellent video. You really explained and demonstrated exactly how to do this. If you ever get time adding Amazon links would benefit us and you. Your clear tips should enable us to duplicate what you did if adding links is a hassle.

[@Stonyboot]

Thank you. There are links to everything in the description. If there is something missing, just let me know and I’ll update it!

[@brianharrigan8821]

Agree with the waterpump omission from the overloaded electrical compartment being a very wise choice !!! The rest of the system is in my experiences , a endless headache ..... Though, the best of luck and happy trails ...... Cheers

[@Stonyboot]

I failed to explain that in the video. That was a temporary solution due to lack of time and parts. I have since solved water pump/electrical proximity issue and will make an update video in the future. Too many projects, not enough time. What do you mean by "the rest of the system"? Headaches abound, but I'm just not sure what your referring too. Thanks for watching :)

[@2009mechanic]

Great video. Just FYI: Silicone dielectric tune up grease is your best friend when it comes to all of your electrical connections even the battery lugs. Also if you ever plan on making more of these vehicle wiring videos , buy yourself one of those hydraulic terminal crimping tool sets rated like 12 tons. They typically cover crimp terminal from 10 gauge to 0000 , 4/0 or 4 ought some larger. You'll thank yourself.

[@Stonyboot]

I do use that on exterior and frequently used connections, but prefer to keep fixed interior connections dry.

[@donbell2107]

Renogy makes a 50 amp DC -DC single unit charge controller which has hook ups for Solar Panels, Alternator and Lithium Battery bank.. Approx $300.00 however this unit allows the Solar panels to also charge you vehicles battery also... Check it out...

[@Stonyboot]

I did look at their DCC50S. I ruled it out due to a lack of Bluetooth connectivity and the 25 volt solar limit. I want to keep my DC-DC Charging system separate from my Solar setup. However, I think its a great idea, I just didn't fit my specific needs. Are you using it? What do you think?

[@brentmcmahon8188]

That’s funny I have the same trolling motor plug and works great and I like how you used the extra post for your signal wire and I have a flush mounted switch that lights up when charger is on. I did this to let my truck charge up and then flip switch to tur charger on or off .

[@brentmcmahon8188]

One of the best up grades I did was to change my fuel tank out for a 60 gallon tank and I needed it bad and after I got in in and a few months latter I realized how much better it is with all that extra fuel and it just drops right in only drawback was the price of the tank .

[@paul-johncharron7748]

THANKS FOR THE IMPROVING OF POWER SOLUTIONS ON YOUR TRUCK CAMPER PAUL IN Ottawa Ontario CANADA.....WE IS THE BORDER....HAHA

[@Stonyboot]

Thank you for watchign!

[@terrylarkin690]

You need some cordless Dewalt tools I sold tools for 35 yrs the last 20 up to 2015 it was Mac Tools and Dewalt was in our line. I love tools and cordless is the best. You are very good with your explanations and when I get my Cirus I'm going to incorporate your system.

[@Stonyboot]

I have a full set of cordless tools, I just couldn't fit them in very well. Tough space to work in.

[@pjdave66]

Good info brother thank you

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks for watching!

[@blessedwithchallenges9917]

I'm full time in my 86 Toyota Dolphin. 500 watts of solar, 280ah lithium with another 280 on the way. Works well for me. But I am concerned I'll have to run the generator (which I've only done twice in emergencies) as I had North again. I might look into dc-dc charging if solar isn't cutting it. Good work!

[@Stonyboot]

Oh wow! I love those Toyota Dolphins, I have always wanted one. Do you have any pic of it online?

[@blessedwithchallenges9917]

@@Stonyboot shoot, no. I did some raw video of my solar installation, thinking people could benefit from it, but its not any fun to watch. I've really tricked it out to have so many things to make it awesome for boon docking. Everything is keyless (except the ignition) - so nice going hiking/riding/spearfishing without keys. The solar, lithium, inverter, so nice. Skylights, usb plugs all over, led lights, fans, filtered water...endless upgrades perfect for me and my 25yr old son. I even detailed the engine so it is really clean. It's fun.

[@Stonyboot]

Can you send me some pictures? I gotta see this rig! Where are you located, approximately? [e-mail]

[@petereaton6740]

LOL the bloopers almost make it worth subscribing, great video and description, thanks ;)

[@Stonyboot]

We don't always have good bloopers to include, but sometimes we just can't get it right! Thanks for watching!

[@TheJourneyAwaits]

Very informative.

[@Stonyboot]

I'm glad to hear that! Thank you 😁

[@nucamprv]

We love this! You both rock!

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks for following along, we like our home on wheels!

[@ConvairDart106]

I am very satisfied with my own setup. I have 6 T-105 Trojan 6 volt batteries. With my Honda EU2000, I can burn 1 gallon of gas for 9 hours, and sit for two days if I do not use the desktop pc and 32 inch tv. I have a 100 amp smart charger that will recharge fairly quickly as well. I can run my aft AC unit and the charger, if the batteries are not down too far. 30 minutes will bring them up high enough to start the AC, or I can switch to the smaller 50 amp charger. Being as how I am boondocking in the northwest, my gas and propane is just over $400 per month. I paid 12k for my class A, 12 years ago. That is about $45 per month for rent. I could throw it away, and still be tens of thousands ahead in money saved from house payments or rent.

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks!

[@journeysbegun]

Very nice setup! Great video. You're a genius in my books!! Hope it all works well for ya!

[@Stonyboot]

Thank you 😊 it’s been working really well. I might add a 3rd charger in the future to speed up the charging process. But all in all, it’s awesome!

[@jamesjensen5000]

Somehow having a water pump in the same place as electrical seems a bad idea.

[@vicO1323]

Exactly. water and electricity don't mix well.

[@Stonyboot]

100% agree. The real story was that moving the pump wasn't part of the plan. It was originally separated from the electrical side. This was a temporary work around. I had a hard time limit on the project and I had to just get it done. We live full time, so having our water and electrical system down wasn't an option. I have since fixed the problem and will have an update video out in the future.

[@Stonyboot]

100% agree. The real story was that moving the pump wasn't part of the plan. It was originally separated from the electrical side. This was a temporary work around. I had a hard time limit on the project and I had to just get it done. We live full time, so having our water and electrical system down wasn't an option. I have since fixed the problem and will have an update video out in the future.

[@colinhamer6506]

@@Stonyboot don't leave it too long or forget about it all so to prevent extensive water damage you can get battery powered water alarms just wrap some cloth around joints etc and pop 1 in this won't stop leaks but will alert you to them hopefully before any damage is done

[@Stonyboot]

The problem was solved, I just never made an update video. I'll get around to making a video in the near future.

[@allanmain5666]

This is very helpful. Thanks for doing all the figuring for us lol We bought the new 920 and put it on an F350 dually, also new. There may be times when having the 930 watts of solar may not be enough, like when we are in the northwest, so this will help us a great deal. Our truck comes with a 250 amp alternator, so I may go with the 60 amp charger. I'm thinking that I may also have the ability to wire it into the upfitter switches. Fun stuff, but still requires some planning. Your video will help a lot. I hope you get something from the affiliate links.

[@JF32304]

Another thing that's amazing to me is the fact that nearly everything is 12v. TV, laptops etc. Take out the transformer that takes the 110 down to 12v and no need for an inverter. I don't see why people don't do this.

[@2009mechanic]

Correct , but , most flat panel TV's have an internal power supply. I personally took at the ones that have a power pack in the cords for this exact reason. I installed many more 12VDC accessory outlets throughout my camper for plugging the low voltage stuff into where I need them. Except for the AC units , microwave and water heater , everything else runs off the 3 coach batteries.

[@Stonyboot]

I was so close to moving everything to 12v. However, I hit a wall with some of the adapters I needed. It also meant that for each new item that I would want to use, like an electric razor, hair clippers, hair dryer, microwave, a 19v laptop, my 120volt internal power supply RAID array, and the A/C I would have to find and order a special adapter. The ease of sticking with the existing standard was much simpler and more future proof. I also have 120 volt power tools that I need to run from time to time, so regardless of my small electronics setup, I need at least 2000 watts of 120 volt power. Am I overlooking some simple solution? I would love to have a new project to figure out! Suggestions?

[@Stonyboot]

Our TV, small electronics and the like, all run off of 12v. But, the AC, Microwave, and some power tools need 120v. So the inverter solves that. In a pinch, I can even run an electric heater and our hot water from the batteries. How do you keep your batteries charged?

[@led_handymanservicesocalif6432]

To store portable solar panels would be between the cab area and camper.

[@Stonyboot]

That would be a great spot!

[@Mechone11]

I know one thing I would get that water pump out of there .It springs a leak and you can kiss all that electrical good bye.Just coming from someone with a sailboat , I have seen it happen to others

[@Stonyboot]

I agree. That was a temporary setup. That was fixed long ago, I just haven’t made an update video yet.

[@JMACK1]

You do your homework that's for sure

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks, I try to be thorough, yet always miss something :)

[@cj2467]

Great video! I’m interested in doing this in my Northstar TC and 2017 Ram 3500 with dual 220 alternators. Please keep us updated on how it’s working and any additional info you can provide would be helpful! Well done 👍!

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks for watching! I do have some changes to make and I'll put out an update when I get things squared away.

[@ericperry9590]

This is just a FYI, for anyone wanting to get a generator that runs off propane, performance wise, you will get 20% less power capacity opposed to gas, run time is roughly 2 to 4 hours less than gas. It may burn cleaner but the performance is terrible. I have a 4000 Watt for the camper and a 7500 Watt for the house, I get roughly 3 to 5 hours less running off propane than I do on a full tank of gas. Again, just a FYI.

[@rhondapaulsmith7647]

Great video on DC system charging, it’s very much appreciated! Thank you and God Bless you!

[@Stonyboot]

You're very welcome! Glad it was helpful!

[@ggsocal4511]

I only worry about a Water Pump so close to all Your Electronics . YIKES !!!

[@Stonyboot]

Agreed! That was a temporary setup due to time constraints. I have fixed that issue, but haven't made an update video. I'll work on that soon!

[@Bernard_Ashtree]

Love the rig, the only thing missing is a passthrough hatch for when I bigfoot territory

[@Stonyboot]

I wanted the same thing, but I just couldn’t find the perfect setup. In the last 1.5 years, we have never needed it, but it would be a nice feature.

[@ssyoumans]

Look forward to the battery build video. I too plan to build my own using 280ah LiFePO4 raw cells and 200 amp BMS. Probably put 2 in parallel for 540ah and 400 amps (only need 250 amps max for my 3000w inverter, but don’t want to drive the BMSs to hard). There is a serious lack of quality BMS with temp sensors.

[@Stonyboot]

Which BMS are you going to use? I'll have a video out about that in the future, still in development.

[@ssyoumans]

@@Stonyboot That is what I was hoping to hear from you. Overkill Solar makes a great BMS with low temperature cut off but only 120 amps. A DALY one would probably be ok if batteries are in heated compartment that will ensure they don’t get below 32 degrees while charging. If I go with DALY, probably the 200 amp model. Eventually (2) 280 ah batteries in parallel for 560 ah and up to 400 amps (but wouldn’t need more than 240 amps to drive a 3000 watt inverter). The oversized inverter would run cooler.

[@Stonyboot]

I'm running a JBD that's also good for 120 amps. I only need to run a 2k inverter and never get close the 240 amp max. My biggest need is run time for the computers, so big battery with a medium BMS. If I wanted to max things out, I could simply install a contractor/relay, but they complicated things and reduce reliability. Finding a good BMS with low temp protection has proven hard, especially anything over 200 amps and with Bluetooth management. DALY has some great options, but I really love the JBD.

[@RamblinRalph]

Excellent video and installation!!

[@Stonyboot]

I’m happy that you liked it, thank you for taking the time to watch 😁

[@Knowfere]

Listening to all the problems trying to fit batteries and cabling into a small area had me thinking maybe I'll just put my batteries in the back seat floorboards. I will be traveling solo and this makes a lot of sense to me

[@Stonyboot]

That could work, just keep and eye on cable length and size. Space is always at a premium!

[@Knowfere]

@@Stonyboot I make cables, wire harnesses and power boxes for NASA, I've got that part 😁

[@Stonyboot]

Oh cool! That sounds like an interesting job!

[@bettyhudson979]

Scott, what was your major in college. You’re very technically and electronically smart.

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks! No major and no degree. I did go part time for IT/Networking in 99/2000, but quickly got bored. I’m self taught, I just like to play with stuff. In no way am I pro at this stuff.

[@bryanstaten5585]

Dang Scott now my brain hurts!

[@Stonyboot]

That's not good! You should take some pain killers 🤣

[@bryanstaten5585]

Ice cold crown royal is my pain killer.

[@randpamadventures8374]

Now that's a awesome job, like it.

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks for watching! It was a long project, but it has been working really well!

[@brett6328]

Thank you! This is exactly what I want to do and I have not found enough example.... As we have a trailer, I am thinking about putting a connection at the front of the vehicle too that I way I can have more options to connecting the charging system.

[@Stonyboot]

I'd love to know what you come up with! I do have some updates about this project and I hope to make a video about it soon.

[@rMoore-zq3tw]

I was looking forward to this video and I have a few questions. The output of your DC-DC chargers are tied directly to the batteries. You also have your solar charger tied to the batteries. I assume you only have the DC-DC charger and not the DC-DC Solar controller/Charger. Did you think about removing your Solar Controller and using a combined DC-DC Solar Controller/Charger? If you were doing this from scratch, would you choose a separate Solar Controller and DC-DC charger or would you try and use a single unit? This assumes that the single unit could provide you with the amount of power for solar panels and DC-DC charging. Why did you install 2 DC-DC units? I understand if your 600AH batteries need a full charge (assuming you are at 20% Capacity) it would take 12 hours of driving for a full charge at 40Amps and 6 hours at 80 Amps. However, are you actually depleting the batteries every day to need 2 DC-DC chargers? Based on your current experience with your setup could you do this with one DC-DC charger with your current battery setup? One battery means drilling one hole in the camper! More power is better and 600Ah batteries is SERIOUS! With only the Solar panels (assuming you are parked in an area to get solar), how many days can you last before you need to turn on the vehicle using the DC-DC charger? Without Solar panels (cloudy/rain/ surrounded by trees) how long can you last with 600Ah before you need a charge? Thanks for the video. I'm looking into something similar to charger the batteries as I go down the road. Right now, the target is only 200 Ah and I think that only one DC-DC charger would be needed. I'm not sure how easy it is or where to add additional batteries in a NL 10.2 unit.

[@Stonyboot]

I'll try to answer these in order: 1. I did look at the Renogy DC-DC/MPPT chargers, they are very nice and a great value. I contacted Renogy in hopes that they would have some kind of bluetooth monitor available soon, but after waiting for 6 months, there was still nothing. I decided to go with a dedicated DC-DC charger setup, then, select a MPPT solar controller when I'm ready to do that project. I plan to run panels of at least 24 volts, which will actually output closer to 30. The Renogy DCC50S DC-DC MPPT has a hard 25 volt limit on solar connections that would restrict my solar setup too much. When I'm ready, I'll probably go with a Victron MPPT controller. The solar controller that's in the camper now is the factory installed PWM controller. I just pinned a comment about why I used dual chargers. I'll paste it here: Due to cable size requirements and amperage limitations on exterior plugs, I could only find parts to wire up a 40 amp charger. I need more than power than a single charger can provide, so running them in parallel gives me more amperage without having to go to 0 or 00 gauge cable. Another “feature” is that I can charge at either 40 or 80 amps and it provides redundancy in the event one fails (power is pretty critical for us). I only run both chargers if I need to charge quickly. If I’ll be driving for many hours, I can just leave one running and reduce the load and heat generated by the alternators and in the chargers in the battery compartment. A single charger would not meet my needs. I'll probably add a 3rd charger at some point too. With that much power, I would have a much easier time keeping the batteries charged. We use a ton of power because of our computer equipment. So fast recharge times would be nice. I also want to be able to get rid of the generator completely and still have all the power we need. My hope with solar is that it will extend out stationary times. Right now, I can get 2-4 days. before the batteries are dead, having 600 Watts of solar, should extend this by a day or two, which would be perfect. We seldom stay in one place for longer than 2-3 days. If we can keep the batteries topped off, it wont require as much drive time to get them charged. I have been looking at the Battery compartments in the NL campers, I think that a battery setup similar to mine would give greater AH capacity for the same space. But, it's still early in development. If I come up with something, I'll be sure to post a video about it! Thanks for watching and keep the questions coming. Good luck with your project!

[@rMoore-zq3tw]

@@Stonyboot Thank you!

[@brentmcmahon8188]

I put a off - on switch the lights up when on that way I can’t let alt and engine warm up and charge starting batteries and then I turn on Renorgy dc to dc charger and I don’t know if it helps but it seamed good to me . I’ve got a 05 Bigfoot 10.6 with on board Gen from factory and 2 LG 425 watt solar panels because I don’t have much room on top and I do run 3000 watt inverter and 2 Battleborn 100 watts a piece and so far it all works great and it’s funny I have the same trolling motor plug that you have. I guess people like you think a like and just to see how long the batteries would last has a lot to do with the temp out side. They ran the 110 AC 4-5 hours and I have room in my basement to a lot more batteries in the slide out try but I would have to find a different place for my fishing gear but the battleborn batteries are so light , I think they 37 lb a piece and AGM or lead acid weigh so much more. I like your rig. My truck is a 05 Dodge 3500 4x4 with 4 door long bed dullay and 6 speed manual and I bought this new so I know how well it’s been takin care of and no tuners for hp it does great stock with 3.37 gears so that makes for good fuel mileage the 4.10 gears are just to low for me. I turn 2000 rpm for 70mph but if I set my cruise by rpm’s my fuel mileage is great when I do it that way and that’s like 65 mph. I put the big air bags with compressor and tack and it comes with a kit with quick chucks and gauge built in so I can air my tires up and down. And I did put Big wig rear sway bar and you can tell the difference soon as you drive it and I put 5100 Bilstiens on and they are really good when under a load. But when you drive with no load they are stiff and rid stiff but loaded they are the best money can buy. If I have to do it again I might go with the blue and yellow ones and I think they are 4100. People think the 5200 are for lifted trucks only and that’s not correct they range for 0-2 inch leveling kit and I tested them by putting a mark on the shinny rod and it never wiped it off so they work like the are supposed too. Sorry for the long ramble but Iam sure you know what I mean, you won’t know if you don’t ask . Good Day !

[@kenperry3376]

What you have done here is trun your fuel guzzling truck into a generator. You already have a 2000 watt generator that is fuel efficient. All you needed to do was buy a 120 volt charger for it and set the generator away from you vehicle. Hope this helps in the future. Cheers!

[@Stonyboot]

We do have a generator it runs on gas and propane. We also have an inverter/charger to charge the batteries while using the generator or shore power. What this project did, was allow me to charge the batteries while I'm already driving. Since we drive almost every day, it means we can use the truck, thats already running, as our primary power source. I certainly don't run the truck just to charge, that would be a huge waste!

[@noworries.8601]

Awesome Job! Thank you for sharing.

[@Stonyboot]

Thank you, and thanks for watching :)

[@dxgi3737]

How the the charging effect your gas mileage? Would the current decrease automatically when the batteries are charged? What is the size of your dc to ac pure sine wave converter to your appliances? Great video, thanks.

[@Stonyboot]

Great questions! I have not seen a noticible impact in my MPG, It obviously uses more fuel, but I don't have an accurate way to measure it. I don't charge all the time, so it averages out to less than 1 mpg, much less from what I can tell. Two things happen. First, Lithium likes a constant current, constant voltage charge profile. As the internal resistance increases, amperage decreases, but only at the last 5-10% of capacity. Second thing is handled by the BMS. In my case, I have the BMS set to disconnect charging at a cell voltage of 3.55v instead of the maximum 3.65v. This gives me a buffer on the fully charge side which helps prolong cell life. Once any cell reaches 3.55v the BMS will disconnect the charger. That means the battery pack will charge to around 14.2v and then disconnects. It will quickly settle down to about 13.5-13.6. On the other end, I have about a 5-10% buffer on the discharge side to also help prolong cell life. A good BMS really helps protect the battery from over-voltage, under-voltage, over-current, high and low temperatures and insures that nothing goes wrong. I have a 2000 watt primary inverter/charger to run our appliances and big items. I also have a dedicated 1000w inveter that just runs our computer/electronics, that smaller inverter only handles 200-300 watts with our computers, so the cooling fan never even kicks in :) Let me know if you have any other questions!

[@sunlite9759]

Great instructive video for a rocket scientist. Check out a video showing a bloke camping in a Prius! The important thing was the ac/heat could be run all night with the lithium batt recharged by the existing Prius generator. I think that is the direction $$$$ campers will go. OK, buy a generator and you have the same thing....maybe. Trucks with dual alternators are expensive Most of them are in diesels. Using campgrounds to charge your batteries defeats the 'camping' experience. I agree! I will soon see on the market wheel hubs with built in alternators. I believe some EV's already use this latent breaking system to help charge the EV' Good luck with your adventures.

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks! There are lots of new idea coming out with regenerative braking and other sources of power. We only charge while we are driving, so using the power from the truck while its already running is very efficient. I wouldn’t idle the truck just to charge, that would be a huge waste! If I could harvest power from the wheels while defending long hills, that would be fantastic!

[@jimsjacob]

I’m installing mine right now…. I went with Victron 12/12 30A Isolated Charger. My truck has a single alt. and it’s a 105 Amp output. Hoping to do the same and take advantage of travel days and charge up the battery bank

[@charlest7027]

Found your video by chance. Do you have a shunt to monitor the amps coming in? For example a 130amp alternator will get burnt out quickly consuming 80-120 amps when only 50 amps coming into the battery bank so one would have a deficit. So the plan is to install a 300amp alternator and dual 50amp DC2DC charger with lithium profiles to get roughly 92amps due to loss in efficiency and then the other 40 to 50 amps from solar on a sunny optimum day. to get a surplus or net out when consuming 120amps. So it be cool to see your data and numbers in real world applications.

[@JF32304]

I'd like to know how they have a cell signal in the mountains.

[@Stonyboot]

We actually made a video about how we stay connected on the road! kzbin.info/www/bejne/gJa0aat_fdeBkJo

[@MrFoodTrader1]

Great job and great video!

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks for watching and the kind comment!

[@jenniferm761]

Can you tell us sometime how you custom- built your Lithium batteries ? And what wiring set ups you used ?

[@Stonyboot]

A video about that is coming. Since they are prototypes, I want to finish working out some details and then I'll do a full explanation on them. Stay tuned!

[@jenniferm761]

Thanks, looking forward to your lithium battery podcast.

[@billmccabe6188]

Your pretty smart

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks!

[@nightfall22]

Superb setup

[@Stonyboot]

Thank you so much!❤️

[@djmetropolis]

Have you noticed lower MPG due to the alternator working harder? I just ordered a Victron DC-DC charger

[@Stonyboot]

It’s hard to see with the gauge, but I had a friend help calculate it. It’s something like 0.25 MPG. But various factors like temperature, engine RPM etc effect it. It’s not too much.

[@brentmcmahon8188]

That looks like there would be a lot of heat in that small space. May be time for a small fan and vent hole to pull cooler air and a place to vent heat outside and that’s why my charger out side in my battery box and made a vent that the open end of scoop was facing to the rear of camper so would not pull in water or dust and a screen to keep our little friends the wasp .

[@taylorlaneyachtandship3346]

Awesome job, keep up!

[@Stonyboot]

Thank you! I’ll try!

[@standingmannequin7911]

Hi Guys, I appreciate you taking us through this. I realized today from your video that I really need to protect my cables much more. I have most of the components and I'm anxious to get this going. I figured out a route for the cables on my Ram 3500 including the cables to my auxillary switches but that may change. It's a good thing I stopped installing when I did. Something about the cables being too exposed to danger. After watching you I'm looking to go the PVC route. Maybe you have some more pointers regarding your cabling route after the PVC and up through the fender even to avoid the engine compartment. I appreciate your quality work and want to do this right.. At the 11:46 mark I noticed something I want to ask you about. The PVC fasteners. I hope you decided to go with a something stronger to fasten the PCV up there than what looks like a small zip tie. I bet this was just to hold it there while you figured out and made a bracket of some kind... I wonder where you decided to screw into. I think you pieced together your footage wih your demonstration super well done. I'm learning that this is not something to be rushed especially if your not sure on something or it's your first time installing something like this. Thanks for sharing you insights and lifestyle with us all.

[@Stonyboot]

There is a lot to learn about the electrical side of things. I'm always learning and always making mistakes. My videos aren't really a "how to" guide from a professional perspective, but a "How i did it" perceptive. I spend a lot of time reading, watching YT videos, talking to friends, etc. I assemble the project in my head, then on paper, then order the parts that I think will work. Then, I realize all of the faults, and adjust accordingly. Circuit protection is definitely your first step with any electrical system. Fuses and breakers are very important! And for the cables under the truck, I just wanted to prevent the cables from getting hooked on anything or chafing. I did use medium zip ties, 2 separate zip-ties at each area that I could access. Later, I found my aluminum baling wire and used that to wrap/secure the PVC to the truck. I hesitate to drill holes as it promotes corrosion. Also, 98% of the stuff I install is installed in a way that makes it removable later without leaving any damage. So, I tend to use methods like this to prevent making permanent marks/holes/damage. That pipe has been under there for about 30k miles without any problems.

[@dennisglick3036]

just found your channel and would recommend if at all possible relocating the water pump and all water lines to different location away from all your expensive equipment.

[@Stonyboot]

That was a temporary solution. I have since fixed that problem and will make an update video in the future. Water and electricity don’t mix!

[@mitchbockenkamp4092]

if idling and traffic is an issue with heat could you set up a cut off switch from alternator and use generator to power batteries when sitting

[@adambatchelder4121]

They make alternators for charging lithium ion batteries at just about any voltage you want.

[@Stonyboot]

They do, I looked into them and they are pretty slick. I have dual 220 alternators and wanted to just use what I already have. It's been working really well :) I made a few change and have a few changes yet to make. I'll post an update in the future!

[@wes10011]

Nice job!

[@Stonyboot]

😊 thank you!

[@sjf67gto]

What size cable did you use to go from the battery in the truck to the charge controllers in the back

[@Stonyboot]

4 gauge.

[@JohnSmith-ug5ci]

As we all know there is no free lunch. You mentioned that before the install you had been running the generator a lot and it was expensive. An alternator typically takes about 1 HP (horse power) for every 25 amps of power generated. Now that you are using the truck alternator did you check to see how much your MPG changed/dropped and how long does it take too fully charge those batteries empty to full off the truck system you now have?

[@Stonyboot]

No free lunch!?!? But I'm hungry! I have not been able to measure the impact on my MPG. I have done a ton of driving tests to compare it and the average MPG is always about the same within a margin of error. I know that it has an effect, but I just don't have a sensitive enough tool to measure it. I see a much bigger change in MPG by changing my speed by 5 MPH. We still have the generator and use it if we have to, but we have only needed it once in the last 3 months. Also, I never idle the truck to charge, only when we are driving. The generator uses a lot of propane which is much harder to get than gas. So I started using gas to run the generator. 3 gallons of gas, gives me about 2.5 charges. As for a full charge... to charge from 0% to 100% (i usually cycle between 20% and 90%) would take 7.5 hours at 80 amps. We average about 1-4 hours of driving per day. When I know I'll be driving a lot the next day, I will use more power than normal to take advantage of the longer time to charge. Solar will help extend our non driving run time, but that's a project for the spring.

[@JohnSmith-ug5ci]

@@Stonyboot thanks for the reply.

[@1984bmartin]

I will be ordering a new truck by the end of the year to haul a camper. Now I'm wondering if I should order it with dual alternators.

[@Stonyboot]

It is an option. A similar investment in Solar might also do the trick. Solar for us is on hold until I know the specifics for the Starlink mobile antenna. Then I'll add whatever solar I can around the antenna. I like the reliability of the DC-DC charging system, and it works for us since we drive a lot. It boils down to your own needs and how you plan to camp. The only time we use the generator is on really long hot days. It's too hard to work inside when its 90, so we run the AC off the generator when its needed.

[@timothylinn]

Great video, guys. I'm curious if your foam mounting plate is held in place with a combination of friction and the cables hanging down around it or if you used another method.

[@bsj.420]

You do understand there was a reason for havin a divider between a water pump that is super prone to leaking and all of your electronics right?

[@Stonyboot]

Yes, 100% understand. That was a difficult project and I had to finish the video. I have made many changes since then and will make an update video ASAP. Everything is safe from water now. I had to get it done, Sasha was stuck in a hotel while I had the camper torn apart. Got it working, starting moving again and I fixed the water/electrical proximity problems.

[@JM-xh4vs]

I know this is an old video…but. In the end what were the specs on your batteries and how long did it take to charge them from x to y percentage, and how long did they typically last before needing to be charged again?

[@Stonyboot]

Water near the electrical equipment!!! I wanted to explain the water pump situation. This project had a hard time limit and I had to make compromises. Since this video, I fixed the issue with having the water pump in the same compartment. I haven’t made an update video yet. I have made some other changes that I’ll cover in the future. It wasn’t ideal, but there was no other place to move the pump. If for some reason the pump were to let go, the electronics are now protected. I’ll explain in a future video. Thanks for all the comments!!! Also, I forgot to fully explain why I installed dual chargers! Due to cable size requirements and amperage limitations on exterior plugs, I could only find parts to wire up a 40 amp charger. I need more than power than a single charger can provide, so running them in parallel gives me more amperage without having to go to 0 or 00 gauge cable. Another “feature” is that I can charge at either 40 or 80 amps and it provides redundancy in the event one fails (power is pretty critical for us). I only run both chargers if I need to charge quickly. If I’ll be driving for many hours, I can just leave one running and reduce the load and heat generated by the alternators and in the chargers in the battery compartment.

[@normnilsson7208]

Makes sense, thats a great set up, can yout batts handle that amount of current showed down its throat ? how hot do they get at 80 amps ?

[@comegowithMEE]

I don't believe it would have occurred to me to use 2 chargers. Good idea. Good video. BTW, I have that same truck. Good luck guys!

[@Stonyboot]

I found that you can have as many chargers as you want, as long as they are setup correctly. I might add a 3rd in the future. What do you think of your truck? We have had some small issues, like door gaskets and our power steering system is failing.

[@comegowithMEE]

@@Stonyboot I've had some trouble with mine. It's a 2015 so got it when RAM/Cummins were still trying to figure out the exhaust system so had exhaust worked on after "check engine" light. Warranty job so... It did leave us on the side of the road twice. Water pump once and transmission cooler line ruptured the other time. You get time, check out those metal lines going to your cooler. Another guy I know had same thing happen to him. They rub on something. I still haven't figured out where. Should have asked when mine was worked on but we were a couple hundred miles from home and in a rush to get going again. Both breakdowns were pulling travel trailer which made them really fun. I have the 68RFE transmission and it had to be rebuilt at about 95k so spent a few days in shop for another warranty job. That's been over 2 years ago now and since then all good so hopefully all bugs worked out now. My wife still says it has to go.

[@Stonyboot]

That’s disappointing to hear. I’ll check the lines and keep an eye on them. I have the same transmission which I have read both good and bad things about. I’m hoping I got a good one! Thanks for the info!

[@crownspecialties]

I’m still not understanding how you can connect to your alternator and not have it be connected to your starter battery?? Are there multiple terminals on the alternator?

[@Stonyboot]

It’s connected to the battery terminal, not directly to the alternators. On our truck, there is an Auxiliary terminal, but it’s specific to this truck. You’d need to find a way to connect to your power system on your truck. The DC-DC chargers act as the intermediary to prevent the two different battery chemistry’s from interacting with each other. What kind of truck do you have?

[@explorer8888]

Thanks for sharing your setup and ideas. I am going to plan for something similar four our Lance TC. For budget purposes, could you share an approximate of what was your total investment?

[@rkaag99]

Was there any impact on the truck warranty? I know there are as many ways to tackle problems as there are YT viewers, but I think I would have swapped out the solar panels for 24v and maybe even run them in series. Higher volts with less amps, then let the MPPT controller do the work to step down voltage and dump amperage which LiFePO4 crave. I find it less expensive and easier to work with smaller guage wire. Just my 2 cents... which may be all it's worth. ;) Happy & safe travels!!

[@Stonyboot]

There should be no impact on warranty, I'm using the alternators to run an "Accessory". The dual alternator setup is a popular option for people running snow plows, lights and sanders. We are really only using about 30% of the output capacity which keeps us in the safe zone for continuous duty. You're 100% right on the higher voltage and an MPPT. I will be adding solar to supplement our power needs. I'll run about 600 watts of 24 volt solar through an MPPT controller. Given the space limitation on our roof, solar wasn't going to provide enough power to meet our needs. This setup works great, but when we are stationary for long periods of time, I'd like to have the solar to extend our stay without the need to run the generator.

[@jamesjensen5000]

Seems an Anderson plug system would have worked as well ... the Anderson plug system is used in Australia on most off grid rv.

[@rkaag99]

Anderson is used on a lot of power equipment like forklifts etc. as well.

[@Stonyboot]

I considered them, however, I needed a 3 pole plug. + - and signal. So this was a more elegant solution. Also, Anderson plugs are not weatherproof. Had I only needed 2 poles, an Anderson would have been perfect!

[@Stonyboot]

I considered them, however, I needed a 3 pole plug. + - and signal. So this was a more elegant solution. Also, Anderson plugs are not weatherproof. Had I only needed 2 poles, an Anderson would have been perfect!

[@raymondward4796]

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE Mass produce kits made for all makes of RVs. You just might make a fortune

[@Stonyboot]

What would you like included in the kit?

[@raymondward4796]

@@Stonyboot everything described and used in the video

[@raymondward4796]

All hooked up and ready to plug and play

[@lawrence7065]

I don’t know how you found the courage to drill those holes. Yikes!

[@Stonyboot]

That’s not a structural area. Just Azdel and foam.

[@jamiecoburn1231]

I have wondered if replacing one of the factory alternators with a high output Mechman (or similar) that has an onboard regulator set to run at a steady 14.6 volts. Then use this one alternator for the RV battery system and nothing else. Any thoughts? Great video!

[@michaelahlgren8876]

By the way, how do you like your Cirrus? We are looking at a Host camper. Campers are really hard to find these days.

[@Stonyboot]

We love our Cirrus 920, however, it's not even in the same category as a Host. We wanted to stick with a Hard Side camper to keep things simple. Which model host are you looking at?

[@annachampion932]

Nice system! Can you provide a link or info on where you had your custom battery made? Maybe you can do a video about your battery and the process of getting it made? Very inte

[@jimhoward6584]

I"m curious about a couple of things------first do you have any idea of how much power you use on an average day in either amphr. or watthr? I understand your use of computers and associated equipment is crucial to your day to day operation. You probably already know this but you can save propane by running your fridge on the ac option when you have a surplus of power but be aware that the fridges are power hogs. I would only do this when I have good solar and am driving at the same time. I do not have an alternator charge system but at times run the fridge on ac when having good sun. I have 250 watt solar. I only have aprox. 170 amhr. of battery lead acid. I have also run my water heater on ac while monitoring my battery level to not let fall below 60%. I only use hot water when wanting a shower. I assume you have a good power monitor system. Your entire system looks great and I would think you'd be able to power about anything you want especially while driving. Don't be afraid to experiment.

[@Stonyboot]

I'll try to answer your questions one at a time: Q: "any idea of how much power you use on an average day in either amphr. or watthr?" A: Our daily usage is about 150-200 AH/day we do have 200 watts of solar, which will help us during the day. This usage includes sharing everything, running our computer stuff, a couple minutes of hairdryer and occasional microwave usage. Q: "you can save propane by running your fridge on the ac option when you have a surplus of power" A: When we have an AC power source, our fridge automatically switches over to it, so any time we have the generator running it will power the fridge. We also power the fridge from the truck any time we are driving. However, we have found the fridge runs best on propane and I've decided not to wire it into our batteries. I'd rather get propane every couple of weeks, and save the battery juice for our equipment. However, if we had a propane problem, I could wire the fridge into the battery system in about 20 minutes, so it's there as a backup in an emergency. Q: " assume you have a good power monitor system. " A: My batteries each have a Bluetooth management system that gives me lots of information and control over them. I also have a Renogy battery monitor for the whole system but plan to upgrade to a Bluetooth option in the near future. There is a video in the works that will explain all of the changes I've made in the last year. EVERYTHING is an experiment, I just build what I need to keep things working. I have 1200 AH of lithium now which has been really nice. Video coming soon! Thanks for the great comment, I hope I answered everything 😎

[@tunafish3216]

Great video.

[@Stonyboot]

Thank you so much!

[@cirrus820travelers9]

Nice information! Crimping those large lugs it's easier to use a small table vise. More controlled than smashing with hammer. We have a 2019 cirrus. Switching 12v marine batt to 2 100ah Battle Born. Wondered how to charge. We prefer to store gen locked down on rear bumper and remove when operating 30' away.

[@Stonyboot]

I don’t have a vise any more, we sold everything and live in the rig full time. So, sometimes I have to make compromises. A hydraulic crimper would be ideal, but takes up a lot of space. For charging, I guess it depends on your usage. We cycle our batteries every 2 days, so we needed a lot of power to fill them back up. Even at 80 amps, it takes a long time to charge 500-600 ah. I do the same, put the generator far away from the camper to keep things quiet! Do you have a 820 or 920?

[@cirrus820travelers9]

Same here. Are FT'ers. An 820 (stored in Oregon) while winter in 5th wheel (FW). Installed 600ah sys in FW and transfering 200ah over to operate 3000 pure sine inverter. Currently using 150-200ah per day. Gen recharges in 2-3 hrs now. Switch to 820 in April to roam Or & Wa this summer/fall.

[@Stonyboot]

Oh cool, where are you located approximately?

[@cirrus820travelers9]

@@Stonyboot boondocking outside Carlsbad Caverns NP.

[@hanklee6529]

Wait, did you skip over why you have two 40 amp DC to DC chargers?

[@Stonyboot]

Possibly, they were to charge the 1200 Ah lithium battery bank in our truck camper.

[@hanklee6529]

@@Stonyboot there was no mention of using two 40 amp DC to DC chargers prior to the shot of the two chargers being installed back to back. Don't think there as any mention of the 1200AH of batteries as well. I was wondering why there was two sets of wire ordered, then I figured it out with the piggybacked chargers. Just offering advice to share some more info up front in your video

[@inmyopinion6836]

NOT a carpenter ? LOL !

[@Stonyboot]

I don’t remember if I said that or not, but I am definitely not a carpenter!

[@stanleytolle416]

To fight the ticket go to the court and ask to proceed as a poor person. Ticket is $400 that entitles to the appointment of an attorney. Ask to release on personal reconnaissance or any other program that assist homeless people stay out of jail. State that you can not afford bail and that you are not a treat to society.

[@noahgrady3628]

So... I'm a newbie. I have a large rv with 2 ac units..I want to use my Cummins diesel engine to run everything off grid. Would I need to just leave the truck running all the time? Would this work for my application! Bigger system? More batteries? Possible?

[@Stonyboot]

While you could use the engine and alternators to power things. To run 2 large A/Cs you’d need a better alternator, or a PTO generator. Another issue is that idling diesels, especially modern diesels, isn’t very good for their longevity. I’d suggest either investing in solar and a large battery bank, or getting a generator. A generator would be far cheaper than a solar/battery system and it is purpose built to generate electricity. It would also be much more efficient and cheaper to run than your trucks engine. I only charge while I’m driving. I don’t idle charge since it’s just not efficient enough. I run our little Honda generator when needed. They also sell generators (like the Honda 2200i) that can be connected to a second generator to double your output. Another aspect is going to be if you are 30 amp or 50 amp. With dual A/Cs, I’m guessing it’s a 50 amp setup which is going to be a different configuration than what I have. With a 50 amp system, you’d have two separate legs of 120v power. You’ll need to look into how to provide enough juice for both legs. It all comes down to how you plan to use it. Full-time, part-time, mostly boondocking, mostly campgrounds, each usage case will require a different approach. If money is no object, 1200-2400 watts of solar, 1000-2000 AH of Lithium and 1-2 inverters will do a lot to run the A/Cs. You can also look at upgrading to a mini-split system. They are more power efficient, quieter and can be ducted. So many options. I’m happy to chat more on Facebook or email. Just a hard question to answer in a comment.

[@PolymathX]

Amazing research and effort. Did the dc-to-dc charger have a controller and display screen? How do you track battery capacity/current charge?

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks for watching! The chargers have no display or external monitor, they are just an on or off system. To monitor everything, I use a Coulomb meter battery monitor as well as a Bluetooth app that connects to each of my batteries independently. These monitors give me amps, volts, watts, AH remaining, and run times. It's a basic setup, but provides all the info I have needed so far. I've been charging a lot lately and it's been working great!