Chatty Phal Repot Answering your Questions! | Q&A on Repotting, Semi-Hydro, Growth Patterns & More!

[@sheiselwilliams1]

Love the Q & A during your repots. I get the chance to learn multiple things at once. I find this very helpful. Thank you for asking. I love your channel. Found it recently and have been watching all your videos from the beginning. ❤️

[@초록플라워]

호접난꽃 영상 오늘도 너무 잘봤어요 😃👍👍💕💕💕

[@KP-gw5zv]

Thank you for the tips and tricks on semi-hydro. One thing I use for fertilizing is I crush up cleanish egg shell and put them in an empty jar add water there you have calcium. As well as I use epsom salt for magnesium. I have also chopped up some unuseable garlic cloves, put them in a jar added water, let it sit for 24 hrs. and add that to my water that I am going to fertilize and my orchids have taken off. Lots of root growth, flower spikes and new leaves. It has also fixed my paph. leaf issues as well. Just something to share with those out there. Have a real great day.

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Hi Kim, great that those are working for you! Something I would be a little wary of is that you have no way to quantify the levels of calcium being released by eggshells though, I believe very little is accessible to plants from eggshells at neutral pH, more calcium will be released from the eggshells at acidic pH but then calcium is better absorbed by the plant at neutral pH and above. A more precise way would be to buy some calcium nitrate or cal mag. But I'm sure for what you want it is enough though, I just like to be precise with what I add and those levels will not be measurable. I prefer to use a balanced fertiliser and then top up with magnesium sulphate or cal mag as required. Unsure as to the benefits of garlic water. But whatever works for you, there is no single way to grow! Good luck and happy growing! 🙂

[@louisvanderhorst4022]

Wonderful format. Your explanations are clear and concise. I look forward to your videos.

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Thanks Louis, glad you enjoyed the video and happy growing! 🙂

[@ariainlondon]

Thank you Annabel for selecting my questions on Sedirea Japonica for this chatty phal repot session. I take note of your pointer on monitoring the temperature especially as we move towards hotter months soon. Due to space constraint (a typical shoebox London flat), the balcony is the best area I can provide for my orchids. And yes you guessed it right that I grow my Japonica in bark. I will continue with my current watering regime of soaking it for half an hour and to be mindful of the crown and the lowest set of leafs. I hope you continue this chatty session with other topics too.

[@TheOrchidRoom]

No problem, you are very welcome. I was just concerned about temperature as my 2 sedirea japonica have pretty much done nothing for several years, until I moved them to the cooler kitchen, and outdoor temperatures are so warm at the moment. Since they are quite compact, at least the ones I have, I just wondered if there was a cooler place, they may well enjoy the night temperature drops outside though and it could be something else in my climate they disliked. I have found them to be vastly different to pretty much any other orchid! So I am very wary with them. You'll just have to see how they do, it's impossible to generalise as you may have other climate variables. Good luck and happy growing!

[@brendajernigan7642]

Great info. Thanks.

[@jackhagenaars165]

Lots of excellent points..thank you

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Thanks Jack, hope you found it useful🙂

[@dannisorchidjourney]

That was a great repot video! Well done.

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Thanks Danni! 🙂

[@themintthief]

First time viewer. But thank you. I've been having some problems with self watering after having initial success. I've accepted some just dont like it and I'm going to use your pebble idea on the others as I have root tips dying. And I subscribed to you =)

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Hi there! Thanks for watching and subscribing and I hope some of the bits in there were useful! 🙂 I've found that replacing the top layer of LECA with the non wicking pebbles has actually been super helpful, so I hope you find the same- also some other things that can help are threading the wicks higher into the pot and lowering the level you pot the orchid at to an inch or so below the rim of the pot. There are quite a few things you can tweak, in different combinations, to adjust moisture levels in the pot so I hope you find some fixes that work in your climate 🙂 Good luck and happy growing!

[@NinjaOrchids]

Yay!! Let’s! Would be so much fun to actually do that for real! 😃

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Repot together? Conference repot session? 😀

[@esthersorchids2288]

Thanks Annabelle, great video

[@christinenorton2510]

Thanks, very helpful. Very informative.

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Thanks Christine! Hope it answered your question 🙂

[@momepenni]

Paula from Mexico, was very good. Thank you.

[@orchidgarden3124]

Great topics!

[@maxineellis5165]

Hi. Enjoying your videos thanks. Just wondering why don't you use the clear pots so you can see the roots? I have found using the top layer of pebbles really helpful 😊

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Long term the dead algae removal in clear pots becomes annoying so I prefer to use an outer pot. I am limited for how many outers and clear inners I can match up so prefer to save them for orchids where I need to monitor root growth or very thirsty orchids that need the extra reservoir room. For 400+ orchids pots become an expensive issue! For these I'm not bothered, since I know how my phals respond to SH and these only had issues because I was letting them dry too much.

[@yesmayhem]

Would you consider testing bonsai media for orchids? Lava, pumice and charcoal are common, but Akadama, kaduma and calcined clay. Very small and fine, but they work on the same principles of balancing moisture and air.

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Hi, yes I unboxed media from a bonsai supply store a while ago. I am currently using danish moler (calcined clay) which is very similar to seramis, S-te (kyodama) which I repotted a maxillaria into a while ago, and supalite black. Obviously I'm already using lava rock and pumice. I chose kyodama since it is hard and won't break down, some of the bonsai supplies are softer to my understanding. Unsure if you have seen my media tests, I was working on a new one after I explained about the bonsai supply haul but with the move that is put on hold. You may want to check my inorganic media playlist: kzbin.info/aero/PL76ceLYvhJsue7RVoR3DdbkQCoXz_sArB Specifically relating to your question, the maxillaria repot into kyodama: kzbin.info/www/bejne/g6nJk5udaJ5sqpo And part 1 of my full media testing: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nHbSXoyFdqyXn5o . Parts 2 & 3 including horticultural moler and kyodama, different pumice grade, lava, different grades of seramis, organic etc will be published after the house move.

[@joyrevert817]

Have you thought of filling your low drainage holes with hot glue and drill new holes up higher? Then you can still use those pots.

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Thanks for your suggestion! Unfortunately hot glue isn't the most reliable form of sealant and I don't really like the pots. They were fine and cheap when I was starting out.

[@yesmayhem]

How about silicone? the kind used to seal the corners of tubs.

[@derpicorn7945]

The nodes for roots and the ones for spikes/keikis are totally different. Root nodes are little black bumps. Spike/keiki nodes are green and pointed.

[@TheOrchidRoom]

The nodes are usually not visible through the stem covering until one or the other has started to form and the developmental biology has been committed down either path. So I would argue you can't tell unless you peel the leaves off until the process for either has already started- the node can be anything as far as looking at the stem covered by leaves, the important point is they are there along the stem. The pointing or colour are features you can observe emerging through the stem once that developmental path has committed and progressed, which is a factor that is decided by health and environmental cues as a response to hormone balances- so there are many nodes along the stem that can have the potential to do many things. I don't know exactly what point you are disagreeing with? I was asked a question and my answer is accurate 🙂

[@yesmayhem]

Does size of inorganic media matter? 😊 I purchased some 1/4 inch pumice, lava, clay. I'm wondering if the roots are going to have a hard time growing through it. Yesterday I repotted a new orchid that was potted in small rock when seedling as inner roots were twisted and wirey. How do you manage size and root movement?

[@TheOrchidRoom]

If the size of the media is appropriate for the size of the roots, then roots will move between gaps in the media so this shouldn't be an issue. Yes, size of media is just as important with inorganic media as it is with organic media.

[@TheOrchidRoom]

I had a video scheduled that may help to explain a little? I've just published it, hope it helps 🙂

[@momepenni]

Paula from Mexico. Those mellie bugs, I used soap and water, washed them down real good with a brush. I check them everyday with a magnifying glass, I find one ever so often. I use a q-tip & alcohol. Kill them. How can I get rid of them for good?

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Hi Paula! Hmm so they can be quite stubborn, I've never had a full blown infestation but I hear they can hide in the root systems, I saw a video by orchiedee where she unpotted a phal and the root ball was full of them. I would just be persistent, repeat the soap treatment every week to 10 days to get any eggs that hatch out, keep spot checking with the q tip and alcohol. I think it's uncommon them hiding in media but apparently it can happen so worth keeping in mind, if they keep reappearing maybe it could be that also. I hope you get them all!

[@momepenni]

The Orchid Room When I washed the down, I depoted them and souped down the roots and repotted in new medium. I check every day. My phalanopsis all are getting new leaves. I check in and around them. I got a few babies today. I use a magnifying glass & tooth pick with alcohol on to get them out, they are so small. I just wish they would go away & stop.

[@mariakarathanasi9799]

Hi Annabelle, great video and very helpful. I have a question maybe you could help, i live in a very warm to hot country, Athens Greece, and grow indoors must of the time because in the summer it gets too hot and dry, am having no luck with my vandas I have 2 that i have since 2018. Now I started growing bare rooted did work, then in bark still nothing, now i m trying in lecca self watering, now all this time i have good root production both in the pot and in the air. but no blooms. I feed a balance fertizer 21 21 21 and also add cal mag. Usually ppm around 250 300 and ph anywhere from 5.5 to 6.5. Any suggestion?? thanks again for sharing and have a great day.

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Hi Maria! It sounds like culture wise they are doing well, do you get lots of leaf growth as well as root production? With Vandas, flowering is usually a light issue or getting them adjusted to your environment, it depends a little on the Vandas in question, but it doesn't sound like your vandas are still adjusting since you have had them so long. It could be that they need more time so get used to the self watering setup though. Is the position indoors bright enough? You're growing in a much hotter climate so you probably still need to be careful of direct sun, but Vandas are the highest light orchids out there really. How much light are they getting?

[@mariakarathanasi9799]

@@TheOrchidRoom Good morning thanks for the reply. Yes I do get alot of leaf growth. In general they seem to be doing ok, they get alot of light they are by the balcony doors, with a very thin curtian i got from Ikea its like a very thin net that shields them away from direct light because i burnt them last summer. I will send you the names of them as soon as i look them up. Once again thanks. and have a great day.

[@mariakarathanasi9799]

OK the vandas I have are the following Vanda Ratchaburi Rouge Beauty, Aerides Korat Koki, and the Aeridovanda Beth. Which I grow all in the same way. Thanks and input would be greatly appreciated.

[@TheOrchidRoom]

I mean everything sounds great from a health perspective, two of those are aerides crosses. One thing I would say is my aerides and hybrids haven't bloomed for me yet either, some, like the korat koki, can get very large. One last thing, are they definitely at flowering size? Because I have a lawrenciae I got last year that it huge but has never flowered, no previous spikes even though it's almost as big as me with 4 or 5 growths, while houlletiana can flower quite small. Relatively speaking. So hypothetically it could also be that they aren't mature enough, although since I've not bloomed an aerides myself yet there could be other factors. They are summer bloomers so it could also be that yours will flower this year still. Sorry I can't be more help! Your setup sounds great, the thin curtain sounds ideal since you're in a much hotter climate. My aerides all do great in LECA, they really seem to like lots of moisture. I hope that they will flower soon for both of us!

[@mariakarathanasi9799]

@@TheOrchidRoom Hi again and thanks for the reply. Well maybe your right about not being mature enough mine are not that tall at all, they are only about 50 cm, so maybe thats the problem. You have been very helpful, you have such lovely orchids so you definitely know what your doing. Thanks again and i will let you know if they bloom and will try to send your some pictures too. Have a great evening.

[@louisvilleky8967]

How do you feel about using live moss as a top layer?

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Hi! I don't think it's a great or practical solution unfortunately from my experiences. In seramis the live moss eventually took over and rotted my masdevallia new growths, had to do an urgent removal, it can take over and become very suffocating. On LECA it won't grow in my climate as the top is too dry for moss to be successful. Since moss will only really grow on a moist top layer anyway due to it's high moisture low salt requirements, it isn't really suited for this purpose IMO. On seramis I don't get dry layer issues, more algae layer issues, and the moss was more trouble than help for me. I would say if you are able to grow moss on your LECA then you don't have such a dry top layer and so it may be unnecessary- my opinion only! 🙂🤷‍♀️ There are lots of ways to grow and if you want to try then go for it, you may have a different experience.

[@stephenzimmerman8050]

Hi there , just Quick question how long should you soak an orchid for been doing mine for 15 mins every week just wondering if that's the right way to do them

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Hi there! 15 minutes is fine for bark, it depends on what media you are using. I usually go for 30 minutes to get the orchid to drink as much as possible but it doesn't really matter too much for bark, you want long enough to saturate the media.

[@stephenzimmerman8050]

Mine is in bark I was just wondering thanks for ur help , love the video n where would I get the clay balls from if u don't mind me asking

[@ono7077]

In your weather how you keep water temp ? So that it does not get cold and damage roots .

[@TheOrchidRoom]

I keep my grow room 18C and above. I'm growing in the home so whatever water I use in nutrient mix is room temperature.

[@jq1996]

Hi Annabelle. I need advice so I transitioned a rootless orchid into semi hydroponic after being in water culture fro about 1 year and she is doing well. I want to transition all my orchids such as large phalaenopsis, dendrobium nobile, oncidium, and catleya to semi hydro but they are in bark/charcoal/perlite mix. I would like to change them because my collection is getting larger and I currently water by submerging about weekly some twice a week because they are heavy drinkers. I live in the United states near Washington DC and we get cold winters for 5 months out of the year. my indoor environment is 68-72 in winter with humidity in the 30% and spring thru fall is 78-90 with humidity in the high 40s, I have led lights on them during the winter and on gloomy spring days. Any suggestions on if I should make the change and if so how to make the transition. Also if you dont recommend it in my environment what would you suggest I can do to cut watering time. Also I think I drilled the holes too low on the semi hydro conversion, where should holes be drilled? so many questions. thanks so much your so informative.

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Hi Jessica! So the lowest temperatures you get in the space you are growing them is 68F, is that right? That seems to be 20C, mine go down to a minimum of 18C so you are fine there with temperatures. When you switch to semi hydro, time it with when the orchids are making new roots, then if the old root system dies off the new roots are ready to take over. Don't panic if the old root system does die, just wait for those new roots to get down into the media. Some seaweed is also super helpful when converting as it stimulates further root growth and branching. Keep an eye on the top layer and if new roots are drying before getting down, then you can mist the top layer 2-3 times a day to help them just until they are far enough down in the pot. With regards to reservoir holes, you'll need to see how you go. I would always drill higher, you can always tip water out if you don't want it so high in winter. I go for a minimum of 1/3 of the way up the pot, but for thirsty orchids I will often drill half of the pot as reservoir, so that in summer I am covered to go at least a week between waterings! Hope that helps!

[@Sunnyxx33]

Hi! How have your Twinkles been doing in Seramis? I recently got a twinkle that was growing bare rooted on a clay pot, covered in moss. I repotted it into SH with seramis yesterday. I'm wondering if that's the wrong choice since those roots must be adapted to being very moist and well aireated simultaneously. Should I move it into lecca? Would love to hear your opinion on it. The root system was massive, so I don't want to destroy it.

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Hi! They are doing well, you can see an update here at 04:00 kzbin.info/www/bejne/rZ26YXycjKt7sJY . In my experience and I think lots of other peoples, twinkles struggle in semi hydro with LECA. I would say seramis is probably the definition of very moist but well airated when it comes to inorganic media, but you may have different experiences based on your environment and so you won't know until you try! The old roots may well fail with any transition into inorganic, twinkles are tough so I'm sure it will make new roots soon. Just watch the middle of the plant, as they get big the middle gets less well aerated and can be prone to staying too moist.

[@aleksandarhristov6977]

What do you think of semi hydro (inorganic actually)with a live moss top layer to stop the root desiccation. + the moss increases the local humidity and promotes root growth. I have been experimenting with this setup and seramis and have gotten good results for now at least?

[@TheOrchidRoom]

In seramis the live moss eventually took over and rotted my masdevallia new growths, had to do an urgent removal, it can take over and become very suffocating. On LECA it won't grow in my climate as the top is too dry for moss to be successful. Since moss will only really grow on a moist top layer anyway due to it's high moisture low salt requirements, it isn't really suited for this purpose IMO. On seramis I don't get dry layer issues, more algae layer issues, and the moss was more trouble than help for me. I would say if you are able to grow moss on your LECA then you don't have such a dry top layer and so it may be unnecessary- my opinion only! 🙂🤷‍♀️

[@aleksandarhristov6977]

@@TheOrchidRoom thanks for the advise, I'll discontinue the project

[@TheOrchidRoom]

I wouldn't discontinue it just based on that but be aware of it and monitor, it could have a totally different effect in your climate, that's just my experience!

[@KP-gw5zv]

Forgot to say is I also use some orchid food.

[@sandiesorchids9387]

Thanks Annabell, something is wrong with your.