Cheapest Lithium Challenge: Cheapest Battery on Amazon

What's the cheapest good battery on Amazon? In this series we do just that search. We don't think batteries have to be expensive to be great.Today Clark reviews a LiFePo4 battery called the PUPVWMHB.
I've developed a device that helps you add LiFePO4 batteries to your power system.
www.emilyandclarksadventure.c...
Since I started selling them I can't count how many people have asked me my opinion on what would be a good battery to buy. Well, here is what I think is a good recommendation.
THE BATTERY LEADERBOARD: Take a look at this link. It leads to a table of all the batteries we have reviewed, looking for that diamond in the rough. We'll keep adding to it.
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/...
For this battery, click here: amzn.to/3WWxZtV
To see some of our other recommendations, visit our Amazon store here:
www.amazon.com/shop/emilyclar...
(Like any Amazon link on KZbin, if you buy something there we get a tiny cut from the seller. So thanks if you buy it here. But that's not why we post things on Amazon. Amazon is the only choice for us to share links that don't "die" when the product sells out. I personally buy a lot of stuff on eBay. You should shop wherever you'll get the best deal.)
Have questions or comments? Leave them below! We do our best to read and answer all comments on our channel.
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[@reyn3545]

Another concern, particularly in marine applications.... the battery case needs to be COMPLETELY sealed from moisture. I bought a Chinese 36v 100ah battery direct from China... it was cheap, about $1300 delivered, with a 40-amp charger. It worked great for several months, then failed to charge. I decided to peel the cover off and inspect. The warranty period was over, I wasn't going to ship it back to China for evaluation, so I had nothing to lose. When I got the cover off, I found the copper plates that were used to connect the cells had corroded, and corrosion on the BMS itself. The battery had never been submerged, but in the bilge of a boat, it's certainly around moisture, but never standing water. I tested the cells, and all seemed to be fine. So, I replaced the solid copper plates with nickel plated plates (E-bay), and sent photos of the battery to the company that manufactured it. They were kind enough to recognize that water vapor had caused this damage, so they sent me a new BMS and a new top for the battery, which I was very careful to epoxy back on around the entire mating surface. It's been 2 years now, operating without a hitch. So, looking forward, if I purchased another "cheap" battery for a marine application, I would look for no options like USB ports, or cover those openings with silicone sealant or something to keep out water vapor. I'd also consider sealing around the outside where the cover mates to the bottom of the case.

[@EmilyAndClark]

Yes I learned that trapped moisture will do more damage then just leaving the thing open By the same tokin laptops in "pelican" cases tend to have a short life. I have friends with bare cells and exposed BMS they tend to do fine.

[@Jarrod2323]

Skip to the 5 min mark. Trust me.

[@davidotness6199]

Thanks for the info. It was pure serendipity, er, the algo, that had your channel pop up for the first time last night for me. I just started studying these batteries last week and have already learned some crucial information thanks to you. Information that pre-saved me money because of my ignorance. Just throwing this out there for people like me in colder climates---there are battery blankets (electric-powered) that many motorists in particularly cold winter areas of Alaska use and I'm quite certain they could be useful in preventing damage to batteries in a chilly battery charging situation. Cheers!

[@EmilyAndClark]

Thanks David. I will be doing some more battery reviews in the near future. I will cut the box open in the future and poke around inside. Did you see this video? kzbin.info/www/bejne/jIu2o2mlast_fqc If you are going li it's something to consider.

[@Str4ng3F0lk]

Love your work, Clark!

[@EmilyAndClark]

Thank you

[@Chris351971]

Thanks for the review, looking to go lithium in my boat this helps a lot.

[@nodogrunner]

Great job Clark, love how you think. I see the comments about buying much more expensive batteries and I get it. If you were crossing oceans or backing up something critical, I would agree, but spending good money on a temporary situation is extravagant.

[@EmilyAndClark]

Thanks. Personally I'd never trust li as the sole storage device for mission critical work. One failed transistor and it's all over. I'm keeping some lead for that.

[@timmathewson9111]

Thanks for making this video and sharing your knowledge, it is much appreciated. Thanks again

[@gefginn3699]

Great post Clark. I appreciate all the information you are sharing here. I always enjoy tuning into your newest post. 💛 🌴⛵️🌞

[@EmilyAndClark]

Thanks Gef

[@adelarsen9776]

Thank you Clark for this happy and positive video :-) This video has reminded me to check the charging on my sealed lead acid battery for my HF radio. It'll almost be done. But now I am off to water the baby lettuce. Cheers :-)

[@moriver3857]

Great video, and info. Im upgrading to Lithium from lead acid on my sailboat, and have been searching for something in the "middle of the ground " type deal, and now I have something else to further research. I have watched some of your other videos, and definitely will subscribe. Thanks.

[@marklapierre5629]

Thanks for the link. It will be a while before I install the electrical system in my C-25 bare hull refit. These look like what I need to get ready for sea trials.

[@8ank3r]

Thanks for the no nonsense non-tech breakdown on this battery. It looks like it might be a good candidate for when I set up my home backup.

[@EmilyAndClark]

Yep as long as you don't freeze them this looks great. Might even defend against freezing. Have you looked into this? www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms

[@UmpTSquat]

I discovered your channel this morning. I've been following a few of the better known sailing channels for the last 2 to 3 years. I am surprised that I haven't come across yours until now. I think the tie-in was the LiFEP04 battery review. I also build my own battery backup systems. Great video. I appreciated your take on the grading of batteries. It is an interesting viewpoint to consider. You are not right or wrong. Much like many topics, it is another ambiguous topic which seems to have no valid data source to demonstrate definitive proof one way or the other. What some have said is only an opinion. Unless there is demonstrative proof, it is simply an opinion. Like many, I am also leary of the claim of low temperature protection. But you are correct in that if you don't live in a climate necessitating below freezing charging, you don't need that feature. I searched for other YTube videos that reviewed this battery. You seem to be the first. I would like to see a few more YTube reviews, preferably with a cold temp charging test before making any decision. I will definitely check out your other videos now that I have found your channel.

[@EmilyAndClark]

Thanks, I hope you find other videos on our channel interesting. We keep our playlists up to date so that's probably the best way to see the kind of thing that interests you. Yes our new subscriber numbers are way up. I think it was the li. Have you looked at my charging device yet? www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms I'm really quite proud of it. Seems to be doing things one can't do any other way.

[@SuperSushidog]

Great video. Thanks. That's a sweet affordable turnkey solution, but as a full-time RVer I was looking to replace the 2 golf cart batteries that were located under the steps of my motorhome with the highest capacity LiFePo-4s that would fit in this limited space. We decided to build our own 560ah LiFePo-4 battery bank with a 330amp Heltec BMS (to start the 5,500-watt onboard generator) and a 5a active balancer for under $1,500. We built our 12v battery out of 8 grade "A" 280ah LiFePo-4 prismatic cells having an 8,000-cycle projected life at 80% DOD or 6,000 cycles at 100% DOD. This means that if we cycled them 100% every single day, 365 days a year, they would last over 16 years! So, they're obviously going to wear out from age before they wear out from cycling as we only use 15-20% of their capacity daily giving us enough reserve capacity for several days of bad weather before we have to run our generator for charging. They even saved us 35 lbs compared to our old FLA batteries and have over 5 times their capacity. Of course, it's not just a drop in like the pre-assembled PUPVWMHB battery you featured. We top balanced the cells before we assembled the battery, though they were all within a tenth of a volt when we received them. This was probably unnecessary as our 5-amp active balancer would have surely done the job, but spending this much money, we wanted to do the job right. They were economical too. $1,500/560ah = $2.68/ah vs $299/100ah = $2.99/ah for the PUPVWMHB battery. There are cheaper "B" cells available from China that are typically rated at 3,500-4,000 cycles, but we decided to spend a little more to get the higher rated cells shipped from a California warehouse, so if we got a bad one it would be easier and quicker to return and get a replacement. Happily, this wasn't necessary. We insulated the battery compartment, cut a 1" hole in our step risers and installed a tiny computer CPU fan to circulate just enough room temperature air into his compartment keep this space at close to room temperature, so we don't have to worry about the BMS shutting down charging if they get too cold - or their life reduced from getting too hot.

[@EmilyAndClark]

Congratulations, seems like a great build

[@bobuncle8704]

I’m hoping to be building a system later this your, and this episode has allayed some of my concerns. Thank you so much

[@EmilyAndClark]

There are at least 4 more battery reviews on the way.

[@bobuncle8704]

@@EmilyAndClark looking forward to it. Your reviews are always thorough

[@Seafariireland]

Excellent lesson! TY.

[@daveycrockett9447]

I stand corrected- only this battery seems to be $254- compared to the brands i was looking at before which have skyrocketed in price- just not sure about the quality of this particular brand- but certainly a great price!!! Thanks for sharing.

[@johndias6614]

I converted my water well to off grid solar. 400 watts plus I added 4 lead acid deep cycle marine batteries and a back up 110 ac plug in if I drain the batteries during an irrigation cycle at night. At the time all I could afford was the lead acid batteries. They have served me well for three years. Two failed under warranty within the first year but all is good now. I'm getting ready to replace these abd go to li-po. Thanks for the video. My batteries are in a large insulated box shaded by the solar panels with a small computer fan to vent it.

[@EmilyAndClark]

Thanks John. If you have life in your lead still or if you want to charge your Li "right". You might find this interesting. www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms

[@CFPVideoProductions]

If you use lithium batteries, don't vent.

[@andreasfink6751]

Thanks for reassuring me, I bought 2 "cheap ones" from Amazon too, 180 AH each. I'll hook them up to my BBMS in the next months and will report, how they worked for me. They claim to be automotive grade as well and now I know what that means.

[@EmilyAndClark]

Which one did you get and please report back after you have lived with them for a while. (So we can all benefit)

[@bassdojo3925]

Can you give an update?

[@eumesmo-kd1tr]

@Andreas Fink update?

[@EmilyAndClark]

I'm waiting for delivery of an inexpensive battery that I have great expectations about. Once I get it I'll do a review video. It's called a "FEENCE" battery and is quite cheap but made by a company that has been making batteries for a long time.

[@paulkopp3634]

I enjoyed that as a “ nontech “ and limited funds person, thank you . And for those that have to have all the I s dotted and the T s crossed tested to the Nth degree destruction and 110 % guarantees, just buy the big dollar version and don’t bother watching. Cheers Clark .

[@catbird1759]

You made up my mind on what type of batteries to install in my RV. Was thinking about lipos, but we'll be in cold climates sometimes. I'll stick with lead acid for now. We don't boon dock much. But we're seriously thinking about chasing the warm weather. Then they'll be great. Excellent video.

[@drpc98014]

check out the newest kids on the block -- sodium-ion iirc they are good down to -40 c

[@edwinsparks2165]

This is awesome information!!!! Dope video !!!!

[@ProDigit80]

For my hybrid car, a 36 to 50Ah battery works just fine,and is cheaper. I do run a 2 way diode to lower the voltage by approx 0.6V, because the 14.4 charge voltage triggers the bms fron charging it (I think the car charger sends 15V pulses to determine how full the battery is, shutting down the bms). The diodes are like up to 1200v or something, some people ran them with 180A peak, 50+A continuous.

[@sv.foamball]

As someone whose been researching the market for new batteries, my response is "Great, yet another manufacturer I need to check out!" Just kidding, of course. Seriously, I think the folks building these come up with new company names weekly. Not sure if it is intended to confuse the market, or is just a mad scramble to get market dominance before the other guy, but it does create challenges if you want to find good quality, with the features you want, at a reasonable price. Thanks again for another informative video!

[@randy4805]

Very helpful! Thx!

[@UncleDruncles]

Great video, quite insightful. We moved completely off-grid in 2019 and originally used 16-Lead/Acid 6v 232ah batteries to power our system. They worked well until they got cold in Winter. This past May we upgraded our Battery Bank to LiFePO4 We went with 4 Powerqueen Batteries. The 12.8v 300ah (200Amp BMS) units and got em delivered to the cabin from Amazon for $1000/ea. They have been a huge power upgrade, haven't given us a lick of trouble and have seriously put a damper on our generator usage as we can go several days without sun now without running the batteries dead. These Lithium's deliver a ton more power in cold temps ie 35F-40F than Lead/Acid EVER could! Lithium for Life out here! 🤠

[@EmilyAndClark]

If you still have the lead you could bring them back into your system. A bit more capacity and other benefits with a BankManager.

[@UncleDruncles]

@@EmilyAndClark I actually sold em all as I have a battery box that’ll only fit one set at a time. BankManager eh? First I’m hearing of it. Let me go check that nifty sounding device out now. What’s it do, moderate multiple charging parameters for different parallel banks?

[@EmilyAndClark]

www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms

[@menglei6301]

This video is great, can it be used in parallel with my ADCBATT 12v 100ah Lifepo4? I have a lot of ADCBATT batteries, but now I want to try some new ones.

[@EmilyAndClark]

It all comes down to the battery age/condition and the BMS. I can't answer that. Check with the battery company but I'll tell you they will give you the easy answer , "no". But if you use one of my BankManagers (see above) on each type of battery you would be fine technically. It would cost too much though

[@troymccomak1208]

I live in a skoolie and I love the idea of a bank of batteries with lead acid and lithium batteries together then plotting the curve and seeing if the two give off a better power output.

[@EmilyAndClark]

I'm sure you noticed it but this review is part of a series, check the links in the description. And if you want a hybrid system you should check this out www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms Yes things get better when you add Li. You lose much of the 20% power loss with charging / discharging lead and your solar panels can produce full until your bank is nearly full making them essentially bigger

[@Mike-01234]

I started out with lead acid deep cycle with my shed project quickly found how much LifeP04 is better for solar. Solar have limited time to charge when the panels get full sun. Lead acid can only take so much and last 10-15% has to be pulsed slowly during absorption phase. Lead acid works okay for situations charging overnight with a charger has all night top off the battery. I used deep cycles for years in my bass boat troll motors get home plug them in and leave it plugged in until ready to go again. Odd because we are used to big heavy battery equating to more power light weight lithium performs better.

[@DonHarden]

Thank you for your videos. I am always searching for answers and information. I have a Hunter 34’6 sailboat. My goal is to completely redo and upgrade all of the electrical system including the wiring, batteries and adding solar panels. The goal is to allow me to take it out away from shore power for as long as I desire. I wish I could find an expert on these matters that would like to take a boat and design such a system. I just don’t know enough to do it myself. I am a go getter at 70 but lack the new modern information that I need

[@EmilyAndClark]

Thanks Don, Have you seen this. www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms It's the charging device I've developed. Makes it easy to add LiFePO4 to your system and seems to be the only charge controller that doesn't cause low current overcharge. And as long as I'm doing a commercial might as well go all the way. We have a Patreon tier called "Dream Believes" where we can have a chat on the phone. Most guys use this time to talk about boat design projects with me. A lot of boat electrical has been worked out like that. I like doing it and I can usually save you money in the long term not buying needless stuff.

[@DonHarden]

Sorry about the delay in getting back to you. I was watching your videos about the BBMS and reading your information. I will definitely be getting back in touch with you

[@wally1957]

In my RV I place my batteries on Heating Plant Germination Mats. I then add a temp sensor control on off which turns on the heating pads for the temperature I want which is around 38 degrees. I could also use the temp control to turn on a fan and cool the batteries.

[@wongong595]

Hey there, thanks for sharing your honest review bout' Chinese Lithium Ion Battery. I too am a BIG user of Chinese Lithium Ion Battery which I purchased (Amazon) almost over a year ago. I used Renogy DC-DC 50a charger to manage the charging from source power alternator/solar panel. Eversince, never had an issue with the Battery, and it always stays up to 100% charge when it picks enough 🌞. I have my 75L Fridge stays ON at all times, charge 3 Cell Phones (now & then), sometimes use the Sirocco II Fan (Day or Night), Hard Korr LED lights. When I used all these loads at night, by midnight I checked my Battery left Charge Capacity is between 95%-100%. But when I add the load to charge DJI Mavic 2 Drone 3 Batts at the same time, I still have 80%-85% Battery Charge left. So, it really depends on how I use, and to making SURE that the 12V DC system is well capable to handle the application. So, my point is that Chinese Lithium Ion Battery to me is by far exceeds my expectations, and hoping to last me longer depends on how it's being used/managed. Thank you and have a wonderful 🦃 Day!

[@mjanulis3603]

Hello Clark - thank you for all of your insight. I plan to purchase this battery from your online store as my first LiFePO4 experience, however I would like to confirm that the battery will work well in the way that I am planning to use it on my boat. I have a portable refrigerator which will draw 30W or less depending on how cold I want to operate it. I have a smart battery charger (120V shore power) which works for LiFePO4 batteries and I have a solar panel which is rated for 50W which also has a PWM style controller. The LiFePO4 battery has a BMS to protect against overcharging, etc. and I would like to connect my smart charger to the LiFePO4 battery during the weekdays and when I use the boat for a weekend trip (2-3 days max) I want disconnect the smart charger and then connect the solar panel to the LiFePO4 battery so it can keep up with the demand of the refrigerator until I return to the dock and switch back to my smart battery charger plugged into shore power. So at this time I only want the LiFePO4 battery to have a singe use which is to run the portable refrigerator when I am away from the dock. What do you think? I actually have two additional smaller 7W solar panels which I use to keep my lead-acid batteries (2) topped off all the time. My lead-acid batteries power the engine starter and all other normal lighting/pump functions on the boat. Later I may consider joining the LiFePO4 battery with the lead-acid with your Battery Manager, but for now I want to keep it simple until. Thank you in advance for your comments and suggestions. Keep up the great work!

[@EmilyAndClark]

Well it will work. But if you've read my stuff you understand that I'm not happy with how "lithium" chargers charge li.. I understand that the BankManager is expensive and for a 100ah install it might be cheapest in the long run to accept li damage and just replace it early. Can't say I wouldn't do that if I had to pay retail. You will likely get years of use that way before the li damage is noticeable We ran our camper including a similar fridge off this as the primary battery. Never really used the lead much. Just when running the microwave. So there should be a good store of power and the max wantage is well over your needs.

[@mjanulis3603]

@@EmilyAndClark Thanks Clark. Sorry I can't jump in all the way just yet. I really have spent way too much to just do away with dealing with ice & coolers....which are a pain. Let me get started and I will come back soon for the full upgrade if I find the frig is really a necessity. Thanks again so much. I am also moving ahead on a plywood dinghy based on Emily's great video. You guys make a super team...much respect. Looking forward to great year of adventuring. Stay safe.

[@EmilyAndClark]

You are going to appreciate refrigeration!

[@mjanulis3603]

If anything goes awry I will report back. I’m hoping that my smart charger genius brand will keep the battery properly tended to most of the time since the solar panel will only work on the weekends when I’m out on the water. Thanks again 👍😊

[@EmilyAndClark]

They both charge wrong. You might find Conrad's description of low current overcharge interesting. It can be found linked at the end of this page. www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bankmanager But the damage will take time to show so replacing the battery eventually might be a reasonable idea. It's not like you have 1000ah of li.

[@Electronzap]

Sounds good.

[@curtwuollet2912]

I needed to add a trolling motor to my kayak. A 12 pound 50 AH battery is plenty. I bought a Eco-Worthy for $135. Compared to a $100 deep cycle lead battery at 65 pounds and 90 AH theres no contest for my use. It will troll longer than I want to be on the water and get me there and back. If it lasts even 3 seasons thats better than the typical lead battery

[@huckfin1100]

I bought the 100ah 12v lithium battery from dhgate the battery came in a black box with no labels no paper work but the battery seems to be a good battery i use it on my trolling motor !

[@GJandScout]

Excellent video. Thank you!

[@EmilyAndClark]

You're very welcome Gordon

[@herberthahn6964]

Great info as per normal

[@EmilyAndClark]

Thanks Herbert

[@OMIF1]

Best sailing nerd on the internet, thank you. I am looking to purchase a new battery in the spring, so great info.

[@EmilyAndClark]

Are you going to use a BankManager? www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms

[@OMIF1]

@@EmilyAndClark I am replacing a marine battery :), I have a Balboa B26 right now (actually, I have 2) when and if I finally upgrade to a larger boat I will be consulting with you on its systems. I intend to send you a little thank you soon. Oh, the only bank manager I need is one that says: Sure, you can afford that boat! I also relate to you in that my wife is much younger than I (13 years) we have been together for 29 years and counting.

[@waughthogwaugh3078]

You are evidently doing a good job pushing these items. When I click on the link (even using a VPN) they are "currently unavailable". Look great though, thanks for sharing great tips.

[@EmilyAndClark]

Where have you tried? They still show "in stock" in Amazon USA

[@todddunn945]

$300 is a pretty common price point for 100Ah LiFePO batteries now (January 2023). You can buy a LiTime, Power Queen, Redodo or Chins with free shipping for that price. All are well thought of and have good build quality as demonstrated by many documented tear downs. None of those batteries have low temperature charging cut off, but you don't really need that. Just buy a Victron charge controller with the battery temperature sense, or link it to a Victron shunt with a temperature sensor, and program it to stop charging at whatever temperature you like. You can get 100 Ah batteries with real low temp charging cut off and internal heaters for about $400-$450. Also the term "automotive grade cells" is standard marketing for LiFePO4 batteries.

[@EmilyAndClark]

It was the cheapest when I bought it. I guess the others came down in price. This one is now $284 with shipping

[@brokeassbot]

I can't decide which is the best of the $300 100Ah LiFePO batteries? I'm in the south, don't care about heaters. Some of these manufactures off a PREMIUM version at a higher price, like Power Queen. Don't know if it's worth it, tho?

[@todddunn945]

@@brokeassbot From what I have seen in KZbin reviews it appears that LiTime, Redodo, Chins and Power Queen are pretty much the same. The more expensive 100 Ah batteries seem to have low temp charging protection and/or an internal heater.

[@EmilyAndClark]

Redodo just sent me one of their 200ah batteries. I just used it in a video on how to hook up an off grid solar powered electrical system (airing soon). I'll install it on Temptress and use it for a while then likely review it. Might cut this one open as it's going to live in my boat and I don't need it in a case.

[@catrangalema3764]

Hi Clark, thanks for your review and sharing your knowledge. A tip I got from my landlord when I was a lot younger was not to wear metal jewelery when dealing with electrics. He used to work for a mechanic whose metal watch band shorted a lead acid battery while working on the car. That was not a pretty sight... Greetz, Catran.

[@EmilyAndClark]

YES. That's why Emily and I use fiber wedding rings. I was a fireman/ambulance. We eventually bought a ring cutter to carry on the rig. Rings can be scary.

[@Millzlane]

Wth does metal jewelry have to do with anything? You're conductive, yourself 😂

[@EmilyAndClark]

Not as conductive as you think. It's safe to touch up to 24v systems. A ring or watch will burn into you is the worst way even at low voltage.

[@linerguyfixit9427]

@@EmilyAndClark twistoflex burned off like little fuses didn't get burned

[@EmilyAndClark]

That was lucky.

[@kennyhaworth9606]

Awesome review

[@EmilyAndClark]

Thanks

[@kennyhaworth9606]

@@EmilyAndClark can’t find 24v single battery made by pup If I run two what is your thought

[@EmilyAndClark]

I'm going to do a full tear down review of several LiFePO4s starting next month. But from initial look you might want to consider Redodo

[@kennyhaworth9606]

@@EmilyAndClark going to give the 24v Redodo a try I’ll let you know what I think Thanks again

[@ericklein5097]

Pretty much the determining factor for what meets Automotive customer specs is Internal Resistance followed by Watt Hours/Average Voltage. Every customer is going to have different requirements but at its core what matters is voltage drop and the cells ability to discharge that power at a certain C rating. For the large prismatic LiFeP04 cells that is almost alwasy 1C continuous/2C burst. Part of the bonus of having low IR is that you'll have less voltage drop meaning you'll have a higher voltage throughout the discharge giving you a higher Wh figure and higher average voltage. The automotive grade cells seem to have an extra margin built into them, they'll test at least 5% higher in Ah, sometimes as much as 10% higher, and their internal resistance will be 75% of the "typical" rating on the datasheet. This is why we can get Grade B cells that meet capacity in Ah (but often fall a bit short on Wh) and exhibit acceptable voltage drop under large loads due to an IR that is somewhere close to spec, maybe just above the typical rating.

[@extrememiami]

Wouldn't a higher internal resistance be more appropriate for automotive cells? Since low IR is 1 of the 2 reasons we can't just hook a lifepo4 battery up to an alternator. Low IR is great but our dumb alternators are designed to charge a LA bat that doesn't match. You def know more than me on this subject so I'm sure I'm wrong. I have solar setups and only right now researching on adding lithium house banks to LA starting batteries, going through DC-DC chargers or using a Xantrex echo charger if I need lower current like 15A. I believe I heard him say he designed a charger also, I'd like to hear more on his also. In a few years I'm posative all lithiums will be in all our cars. They already make lithium starting batteries but they are way too high priced.

[@ericklein5097]

@@extrememiami Automotive cells meaning cars that are purely EV. They don't have a typical alternator that ICE cars use. Pretty sure Tesla and others use DC to DC converters for any other voltage the car needs so it's a buck converter from the overall pack voltage down to 12V or whatever

[@EmilyAndClark]

I'm working on an alternator video where I'll address everything Lifepo4 and alternator related. And... Show how to keep any alternator safe for $10us. Stay tuned and subscribe, bell, whatever you have to do nowdays

[@ericklein5097]

@@EmilyAndClark you gotta keep your dial up connection going and stay on the creators page, hitting refresh every 15 seconds. Tell the wife the phone is off limits for the next 48-72 hours. If you lose connection everything. you ever liked watching on KZbin gets sucked into a black hole and you're stuck watching KZbin Rewind 2018 without a dislike button to hit.

[@extrememiami]

@@EmilyAndClark look forward to that video. I've researched it and it's fairly complicated. There's not much info out there either. Would be very welcomed to see a video addressing it all. Lower IR that it sucks out too much power at once, especially if the battery is low, how to protect the alternator when the BMS shuts off when it's full (alternator protector) and address charging lithium when it's below freezing to not ruin the battery, if additional vibration protection is needed since it's not just plates and liquid inside, it's circuit boards, and then how to use lithium as a starter battery when it's not designed for starting (most). I look forward to this video, we need more info on the topic for sure. I'd love to see the day when we can simply pop in a lithoum Iron battery when our stupid LA or AGM batteries die. My escalade has never had a battery last more than 2 years max.

[@petersimms4982]

Good information 😊

[@NerdThingsAndMore]

Thank you!

[@Seafariireland]

Interested in lithium but a lot of study required for me to get sufficient know how! Thanks, SkipRay.

[@EmilyAndClark]

This should make your process easier (or harder.. choices choices) www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms

[@SalingSamantas]

I am in cold temperatures in vemont but think I'll try 8 of them in my boat. And only charge them when its atleast 40F in the cabin. I probably wouldn't try to charge in the winter unless OAT is 40F also when on the hard.

[@EmilyAndClark]

With so many "drop in" li batteries being used I'm contemplating adding a thermometer to my BankManager. It could easily stop charge going to cold batteries.

[@dickdyson3100]

Its called timeusb and yes these are grate. I've been testing these and can pull 150amps or even more with one 100ah battery and these are grade A cells i even shorted it out, It turned off and only way to get it back on was to give it 13 volts and back on and running fine now for 3 months. It's really a 104ah. 280 bucks new it's the pro version

[@tarvelnbsn]

I really enjoyed your thoughts and approach to this review 👍 Thank you for this. I have been watching KZbin videos and trying to figure out if this battery could be a drop in replacement for the lead acid battery on my travel trailer. It's just the stock configuration. 2020 Forest River Wildwood. I am a nurse and I don't know anything about battery systems and have gotten so much confusing information when looking into this.

[@EmilyAndClark]

This isn't a great battery. I really suggest you go to the description and follow the link to our leader board. There are better choices there if money isn't the main concern. But if it is this works. We have this in our camper. As far as drop on goes. No li is. They charge very differently than lead. You might like this device it lets you put Li in parallel to your existing lead. www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms

[@tarvelnbsn]

@@EmilyAndClark Thank you so much for your quick reply 😊👍 I guess I will have to get a new lead acid battery and then get the manager and contactor so I can add li. I didn't understand there was a difference between Automotive battery maintenance and RV battery maintenance. I let my refrigerator deplete my battery a few times. I will get it tested and then go from there. Thank you for the easy solution to my battery needs 👍

[@marktaylor484]

Fascinating.

[@EmilyAndClark]

Thanks Mark

[@michaelwalimaa1806]

Batteries are charged at a voltage that will cause a rate of gassing that will break up sulfates (or probably phosphates for PO4 batteries). That voltage varies depending on the temperature of the battery. If the temperature gets too low, the charge will not produce the gassing that is required to keep the battery healthy. The temperature is not a factor when discharging the battery. Since the charger does not know the temperature of the battery, it probably just senses its own temperature to determine the correct initial charge voltage. Therefore, you will get the best life from your battery if the charger and the battery are in the same area, at the same temperature. Also, if the battery is hot (from a long heavy discharge), let it cool off to room temperature before you charge it. Just some tips from an old Sub sailor that had to maintain some very large lead-acid batteries.

[@michaelwalimaa1806]

P.S. Our Sub battery would pump out 5 to 8 Megawatt-hrs and had over a hundred one ton cells. That was enough power to lift an entire 7000 ton nuclear sub a mile and a half in the air - if it ever all let go at one time. And the old diesel boats had two of those batteries. Respect batteries!

[@EmilyAndClark]

You can't treat LiFePO4 like lead. What you said was correct for Pb but basically none of that applies to Li

[@moosedog7360]

I like your review and will purchase one through Amazon to have for a power backup for my PC and TV. I also purchased a Noko Genius1 battery maintainer to use on it. You mentioned something in the review that gives me second thoughts. Is this a good product to use or should I choose another way to charge and maintain this battery ? And, is it OKAY to have the battery trickle charging under a light load ?

[@EmilyAndClark]

You should seriously consider my product. www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms It really is the best you can do for your Li. Wait just a bit. I'm currently uploading a review on a battery I like better. Subscribe and push the bell so you get a notification tonight.

[@shaunhall960]

Thanks for this video. I'm about to become a nomad and this battery is the right price.

[@EmilyAndClark]

Look at my leader board linked in the description. This works but there are much better batteries reviewed that don't cost much more.

[@shaunhall960]

@@EmilyAndClark Thank you!

[@lifeisfuneh]

Always appreciate non paid unbiased review! Thank you! Sadly amazon link shows as unavailable :(

[@EmilyAndClark]

Yes they got popular somehow?? I have more batteries to review soon. I'm going to do a deeper look into these

[@lifeisfuneh]

@@EmilyAndClark Awesome!

[@paulfloor5320]

Many folks are confusing "low temp cutoff" with "low temp CHARGE protection" and they are very different. Low temp cutoff, low temp protection, etc. only protect the battery during discharge. These sellers use "low temp cutoff", "low temp protection" (or something similar) to make you think their battery has low temp charge protection when if fact most do not. To be clear, nowhere in the specs for this battery does it state it has "low temp CHARGE protection", it only states low temp protection and that will not cut charging below freezing. This battery does NOT have low temp CHARGE protection so do not charge it below freezing.

[@ericklein5097]

This doesn't make sense. If your BMS is capable of shutting down the discharge at a certain temperature (unfortunately -20C is often that number) then why would the BMS manufacturer not use that same thermistor to shut down the mosfets for charge current? Overtemp protection is almost universal since they use those bimetal thermal switches which are probably insanely cheap to add on to the BMS. No additional circuitry needed, just use the traces for that bimetal switch on the charge and discharge mosfets to go open circuit. When I look at BMS's I always want to see the entire list of parameters so I can see whats available and what their stock parameters are. If they are way off then I know its probably a shit BMS anyways I have never seen a BMS that has a line on the parameters list for Low Temperature Discharge Cutoff Voltage/Low Temperature Discharge Release Voltage but not have the two lines for charging

[@ronbitzer6587]

From Amazon Q&A Question:Does the battery have low temperature charge protection. Specifically, will it prevent the battery from being charged below 32F (0C)? Answer:Hello, the BMS of our battery has a low temperature protection function, it will stop charging the battery at -10 degrees Celsius By PUPVWMHB Battery SELLER on February 12, 2022

[@EmilyAndClark]

Yes and I never got an answer to "why -10 and not 0"

[@EmilyAndClark]

From now on I'm opening every battery I review

[@paulfloor5320]

@@ronbitzer6587 The Q&A is not where one should get specifications. And -10 c is below freezing so at that temp, the charge rate must be reduced (sometimes drastically) so even if the Q&A is accurate, you could damage this battery by charging it below freezing if you don't know what you are doing. -10c is not protection unless the user is aware and adjusts the charge rate so that is why 0 c is the standard. You can actually charge all the way to about -40 c IF you know what you are doing (and have a sophisticated charger) and adjust the rate appropriately but most people don't so that is why 0 c is the industry standard. Another Q&A says they are testing the battery for a video and it and charged all the way to -20 c (not -10 like the seller claims) before shutting off so the seller's answer wrong, the low temp shutoff is even worse than stated. That is why it isn't in the specs and this battery should not be considered to have a usable low temp charge protection... Q: Im doing a teardown video (60k subscribers). Would you explain why you stop charging at -20c? Its common to stop charging at 0c. A: Poorly configured BMS is the only reason why. Likely have the charge and discharge set at the same number since "technically" it is safe to discharge below freezing although it should be done at a much lower rate like 0.2C max. The first person that responded to this had an "answer" that didn't make much sense. Cell chemistry is pretty much no longer debated in terms of cold temps. Charging should not happen below freezing, discharging can go a bit lower but should not use the normal discharge current specs in the datasheet. 0.2C(apacity) is usually given as the safe continuous discharge rate in the -10C(elsius) to 0C(elsius) range. I don't see -20 Celsius very often in datasheets but I have seen it before. ... By Eric in the United States on December 25, 2022

[@sutv6754]

So happy to find this channel. Really liked this video. I would like to ask a question and would love your expert opinion. I now use 2 100AH Die Hard Marine Batteries. I always run out of juice when I am on the river in my inflatable sea eagle raft with a 34 pound thrust trolling made my Water Snake. I think it is 36 volts. My Batts are 2 years old and in bad shape, I think because I have to run them down to nothing in order to made it to the end of my boating route. I am nature photographer and videographer. Do you think this Batt will do as well or better then my 2 12v lead acid batteries. I down daisy chain them I just switch when one runs out. This deal is so good. I'm thinking of going for it. Possible 2. Thank you.

[@EmilyAndClark]

First off switching to LiFePO4 is going to be so much better for you. Half the weight and they tolerate a full discharge so much better than pb does. Plus LiFePO4 just had a longer life in the first place. If budget is a big issue, of the batteries I've reviewed so far, I'd go with this one over the PUP... kzbin.info/www/bejne/jKSlpXSopM5_qtE I have high hopes for the Redodo 100ah I have coming for review. It is likely a better battery and comes in a smaller case. No need to carry a bunch of foam with you on the boat, right. But with the loads you will be putting on this battery the Feence battery should perform fine. Clark

[@richardpaulissen1171]

The cold temperature cut off on that battery protects it from discharging below its minimum discharge temperature it's not meant to protect it while charging.

[@michaelkennedy2528]

Great video but just missing what I needed. My question I was hoping was answered was can I use this in a UPS? If yes then what would I need to do if replacing a LA, if not can you recommend one for such an application.

[@EmilyAndClark]

To replace lead with lithium especially when you can't control the charge parameters, I'd recommend this. www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms

[@madjackgamingandfitness498]

what some systems will use is a heater near lithium batteries. I am still learning about this. But cold storage will use lithium, they are just set up with heaters. Haven't had any calls on it as far as I am aware of after almost 2 years of install.

[@EmilyAndClark]

If you look on the video description you will find our leader board. It has links to video reviews of batteries with cold protection that don't cost much. This was my first battery review. Let's just say the later ones are better.

[@bobbafett1971]

Actually running the microwave is something we do. 1500 watts for 3 minutes. Should try that.

[@AzPauly]

Clark, thanks for posting. Question, to run a LiPO4 in my camper (Forest River Minilite) do I need to defeat/disable the onboard charging system..? currently running orig. flooded 2x6v setup.. thanks, Paul.

[@EmilyAndClark]

Yes lead chargers will damage li. In fact li chargers will slowly damage li. I'm going to recommend the approach I invented of course. www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms It lets you leave your setup just as it is and add li. It's nice to the li and even let's you keep your current lead.

[@johnsavage6628]

The damn things catch fire! Phooey!

[@EmilyAndClark]

Li-ion catches fire. I won't have one on a boat where the decision could be burn or drown. LiFrPO4 simply don't have that failure mode. These are that type of lithium.

[@joeblacksr.2391]

I'm not an EE or a techy person, but I did enjoy the video. I have a 6-seat golf cart running at 48V using 8-6V FLA batteries (Trojan T-105). Would these batteries work for me? I'm in Atlanta, GA so the low temp issue shouldn't be a problem. I get good range with these 8 batteries, how would four of these compare running in series?

[@EmilyAndClark]

I like my BankManager to give you a better charge for longer battery life. But regardless you should either buy 48v batteries so the cells are all balanced by one BMS or use the battery balancer I used in my friends Duffy Li conversation kzbin.info/www/bejne/foiwaYykobCYnLM

[@eivindlindefjell5602]

VW tesla and al ev cars are made to go in Skandinavia. Up to negative 30 40 degrese celsius

[@Paul-ou1rx]

I was not aware of the problems of low-temperature charging. I saw some unscientific/unverified videos during our recent cold temperatures of Telsas not charging and "Stuck" on the "Battery Warming" cycle. They must have the same type of protection and a warmer that could not handle the artic temps?

[@braithmiller]

The battery warming system is motor generated heat run through the cooling system to the batteries. Analogous to you shivering to generate warmth. This heating cycle takes away from charging. Also, no charging can begin until temperature is reached. The battery sled is thin form factor, hard to insulate. The current technology makes these a judgment call in cold areas.

[@stephboeker7835]

I loved the video and happy you shared your experience and knowledge. I didn't understand the part where you talked about your battery manager ? After touring your Bank Manager site, it seems that product is for charging different types of battery's together ? But, I will only have the one lithium battery you speak of in this video and only small amp draw during day fishing trips infrequently. (every other week-end for the summer in Louisiana) I'm looking for a recommendation on a correct charger for this battery and how to manage the charging for maximum life. (i.e. leave it charger ? disconnect when full ? charge after fully drained ? or, charge each time it's used even if not drained ?) Thank you for your generous consideration, Sincerely .........................

[@EmilyAndClark]

Yes, Deciding how to charge li is difficult especially as there are really no good chargers out there (well except mine). In your application where, I assume, you are either draining your Li battery or it's home doing a charge cycle, you could charge at a constant current and end the charge cycle when a voltage is reached. Then remove all charge current. The BankManager is about doing this in a dynamic world where the charge rate is changing (solar) and there are loads put upon the battery system during charging. This is the world your battery would see if it was being charged while also being expected to supply power. You could use my BankManager and a current source to charge your battery perfectly at home but I personally wouldn't add $500 in components to protect a $300 battery. I'd just accept that the battery might have a possibly shortened life and expect to replace it early. While of course charging it as well as possible. Reading Conrad's message at the bottom of the sales page www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms Might be interesting for further research. Of course if you expected to expand your install by adding solar or more batteries later the investment in a BankManager might make some sense.

[@stephboeker7835]

@@EmilyAndClark ... thank you for your timely reply and seemingly "risk to a sale honesty". I don't see much integrity like that these days although it was common in my youth during the 70's. Thanks again and have a great week-end. Sincerely .................. God bless.

[@great-garden-watch]

Omg you are probably the perfect person to ask! I have an inflatable boat with a sailing rig and take it on a really small lake. I want to add a small trolling motor (30 pounds) just to go a very short distance back if my daughter doesn’t want to row. These inflatables don’t sail well at various points of sail. They slide! So i would go no more than 30 minutes because the whole point is sailing. What’s the lowest power lifepo4 cheap battery i can use for this? The one you described is too expensive. Thank you so much!

[@EmilyAndClark]

Don't try to sail an inflatable.. Well if it's what you have fun on the water is fun, right We use a 50ah that I built myself in Emily's boat. Emily Builds a Sailboat: kzbin.info/aero/PLsT7_jPsZM5qrTdxolBxRZAsUfuacyiE1 It lasts a long time if you don't try to go too fast.

[@great-garden-watch]

Ya i have a 16ft daysailer as well but it’s a lot of work. The inflatable is fast to set up and goes in my car. I can’t make a battery but i can look for a 50AH thanks!

[@JohnCares]

Hello Clark, great job, I want to put this battery in a 13-foot Jon Boat to run a Minn Kota 50 lb thrust trolling motor, is this a good choice to do the job? Please let me know what you think.

[@EmilyAndClark]

There are more interesting batteries in our leader board linked to the description of this video. In all likelihood this looks like the Feence battery inside. If you can swing a few more bucks there are better batteries with better internal wiring like the Elefast. Still cheap but with Bluetooth (think gas gauge) and enough internal copper to not get hot when pushing the power your motor requires on full power.

[@calld2serve]

I appreciate your information. I am so confused as to what to do. I am running two lead acid marine deep cycle batteries as shore power in my van. They say they are 115 ah. I charge them from my alternator. I really want to upgrade to to lithium, but I’m nervous as to what I need to make this jump. Btw I currently only run lights and a 12volt fridge.

[@EmilyAndClark]

Yes it's confusing. I'd recommend this. www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms

[@redwood1957]

I see on your shopping area you have a trolling motor. I have a 7ft fiberglass trihull dinghy. Whats your oppion on this battery and the 12v 55lb thrust trolling motor.

[@EmilyAndClark]

Not this one. I'd say it's good to 38lb There are much better choices in other batteries I've reviewed. Check out the leaderboard linked in the description of this video

[@davidpotter9462]

I just ordered a 24 volts 100 amp hours battery 🔋. Im adding two of them to the twenty lead acid batteries I already have. It'll be here Wednesday. It's an Enjoybot. I got it shipped for $561. It's like two of these you have I guess. I never had one yet. Im going to get another one in December. They have a 100 amps BMS.

[@EmilyAndClark]

You now have Li, you have Pb Do you have a BankManager? www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms

[@davidpotter9462]

@@EmilyAndClark there's only $18 to manage, probably won't pay well enough 😕

[@davidpotter9462]

@@EmilyAndClark I have a pair of 200 amps welding diodes that I can use.

[@EmilyAndClark]

Yeah. Not the same thing

[@ferraritoybox]

Hi Clark, thx for the information, ? I have are these batteries able to start diesel engines because they need more amps to start. Thx

[@EmilyAndClark]

No I wouldn't rely on any LiFePO4 to start an engine, especially these. You might want to check out my BankManager approach to building a hybrid system containing both lead and Li. www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms

[@pleyenterprise]

Amazon battery is 1/3 the cost of Battle Born battery, which is a no-brainer. Will Prowse open a lot of these batteries and recommend them. If you are handy, you can build it with selected cells even better. With power and a computer fan, cold weather is fine. That beats water drying up in a lead-acid battery any time.

[@franktartan6808]

Thanks Clark. Hi to Emily. I would assume that the battery was designed for automotive use, A or B were still designed for auto. I do like the idea of trying the cheapest. I usually buy the cheapest tool or the top of the line..... Someone could build their own freezing temp cut off, right? I watch Will Prowse and he finds temp probes that are not connected to the battery, when doing his destructive tests.

[@EmilyAndClark]

I'm thinking about adding a low temperature cutoff to the bank manager. Seems where it belongs. It can easily stop charge going to li at low temp much as it stops charge going to a full li. And the user can set the temperature, place the probe, and easily test the gear to see that it works. (Basically drop the probe in ice water and try the batteries. Should hear a nice satisfying click!)

[@franktartan6808]

@@EmilyAndClark Hope you are getting lots of BM requests. I may be out of sailing for good or for a couple years as I need a hip and knee (or both). But I will keep track of you!

[@Mojokiss]

wow I know that opening theme song - learned it traveling around the country last year on fiddle Big Siota

[@EmilyAndClark]

Are you playing the version we use?

[@braithmiller]

Thanks! I keep not purchasing any for my indecision on unknown brands. Despite my lead being intolerable. Plenty of 'recommendations' from those getting them for free and paid. There is a good call on insulation of the battery bank with heating mat. Just ventilation or cooling for high temperature. An engine cooling loop ( exchanger based) on a thermostatic controlled pump is simply to heating. While my boat has had winters at anchor unoccupied self heating, lithium iron phosphate has not been a perfect choice. Rather like an auto run testing bilge pump, it can just consume power without replacement. Despite the starting battery form factor, I assume this is not a starting battery?

[@braithmiller]

I see the seller specifically answered no on starting.

[@EmilyAndClark]

If I had a boat in a cold area. And I mean an area cold enough that the boat got to freezing temperatures inside despite being in the water or was stored on the hard. I'd just put the BankManager in menu mode by pushing the button. You now have a lead battery boat. If you aren't on board your boat doesn't need much power and if you are there you don't want it cold Remember lead has a lot of advantages. My whole approach is to play to those advantages, easily.

[@dougcroll4753]

Looking to buy an electric outboard motor for a small boat. The one I’ve looked at requires a 48V100A/3- battery. At times the boat will be used in sub freezing temperatures. The outboard motor is rated at 1200 watts max. Noted one of the other comments below was from someone that the battery failed due to moisture. Could the battery be put into a water proof container ( a sealed ice chest?) to help with moisture issues? And what would you look for in a battery for this type of application. Thanks in advance for any input.

[@EmilyAndClark]

First off this battery kinda sucks for your needs. Take a look at my "leader board" linked in the description of this video to find better choices and my reviews. If you want to go with 4 100s to keep the individual weight down check out the Elefast. It has cold charge protection and is reasonably priced. If you go with 4 batteries get a balancer. They don't cost much. Check out my Duffy video and look at our Amazon list to see how to get one for like $50. If you want one big battery get a 48v battery. It will weigh like 100 lbs but if you are cool with that it's best to have everything under one BMS. I have a video coming for a 36v golf cart. That might give you an idea. I mention waterproofness in each video except this one. It was my first and I did a poor job

[@sangkang6294]

The advertisement for this battery suggest use for RV. Does this mean this could replace the existing 12v lead acid directly or does it require a dedicated charge manager? I'm guessing the onboard BMS could do the job but I'm not sure if this is the case. Plus, my RV does not have a solar so I'm planning to add solar while replacing the existing lead acid bank.

[@EmilyAndClark]

LiFePO4 is certainly not a replacement for the starter battery. Check out the leaderboard in the description there are better battery choices. You need to do a bunch more research before you can ask a question like that. You need to know what you don't know. Maybe start here? www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms

[@victorjoseph8948]

living in quebec Canada winter time is cold i think it could be a problem if a power out lasted more than a day temperature could i mean potentially coul freeze does not happen often but.? better safe than sorry. i would go for a self heating battery .I know they are expensive :( but a safer decision ? have to save for that expensive self heating one. I appreciate your video .BUT maybe at that price i could try one and also buy one expensive one in case. keep up your good information videos.

[@EmilyAndClark]

Check out my leader board linked in the description. I really don't care much for this battery but it seems to be a popular video

[@jimnunya1253]

I got 2 of the generic orange batteries with black tops. They were 100Ah with 100A BMS and get this, Bluetooth monitoring!! Oh the 2x cells were delivered for $550 total!!! These seem bad ass. I just got them so I'm not sure of anything yet but I think I got the best deal but I used eBay. These are brand new. Seller had 99.9 seller rating.

[@AN-kg4ei]

do you have a link or manuf?

[@tedjelsema782]

nice review, so what about integrating a 20A 14.6V AC-DC charger to 12.6V 20Ah battery bank(3), using +/- busbars connected to a 30A PV controller? The charger operates at the exact maximum of the batters parameters, thinking about buying a 5-10A charger for this battery bank and saving the 20A charger for more expensive 50-100Ah LiFe batteries.

[@EmilyAndClark]

This might help you with how to charge li. There is a lot more to it then guys selling chargers tell you. Basically no charger does a good job but this one. But this one is likely too expensive for that battery. www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms

[@rockapartyjd]

I so appreciate your review, im just lost if I can use this as a 2nd amp in my car audio...there's so many little nuances when it comes to batteries

[@EmilyAndClark]

I personally wouldn't use this one. Check out the "leader board" linked in the description below this video to see all the batteries I've reviewed. For a car stereo I'd seriously consider the "transparent Elefast". You might like one of my BankManagers. It will let you join your Li to your cars existing lead and let the cars alternator safely charge your lithium batteries. No more charging your stereo batteries at home.

[@rockapartyjd]

@EmilyAndClark omg thank you so much...totally subbing just for your kindness

[@back2backjack1]

Great vid. Using Ur link to Amazon this battery is now $170, amazoning price. I am ready to buy one. U failed to mention charging, but seemed to say a regular 12v charger will not produce enough volts????

[@EmilyAndClark]

Certainly not the best battery I reviewed as you saw on the leaderboard but if it meets your requirements that's great. I have a lot of videos about charging Li.

[@vmay31]

Would you recommend these for use in a boat for the trolling motor? I have 12v on one boat and also a 36v trolling motor on another.

[@EmilyAndClark]

This was my first review and I never opened this battery but I think it's similar to the Feence battery I also reviewed. Assuming that's true it would be good to 50a. I used 3 of these in a Duffy conversion (see my video) so yes it should work fine for a trolling motor that runs around that current. But do yourself a favor and go to my "leader board" in the description of this videos and check out some other batteries I've reviewed. There are some much better built batteries for just a few dollars more available. I really like the Elefast. Also (from the Duffy) video I'd use a battery balancer for the 36v setup. I found a cheap one. Follow our Amazon link to find it.

[@djaj423]

yeah you should, unless you like expensive decals from BB..Weize on sale now for 100ah $254.79 been using for over 1 yr. more on order as of yesterday. 10 yr warranty.

[@EmilyAndClark]

I haven't reviewed that one.

[@johnmonk3381]

I'm considering replacing a traditional lead acid battery with Li ones for a gate motor. The lead acid ones come at 12V 7.2Ah, and I would like to replace that with an Li one at 12V, 8Ah. The form factors are exactly the same with similar charging and discharging characteristics. Do you think this would be a good idea? Can the Li cells withstand the outdoor heat of up to 35 degC but it sits inside a box of course. Also, will the charging circuit that came with the lead acid battery also work on the Li ones? I appreciate your honest opinion and thanks!

[@EmilyAndClark]

I'd stay lead I explain why in our "electrified dinghy" video where I use lead.

[@cabanasolar9730]

Can you add those batteries in series and what is the maximum voltage and amps it will support before the BMS shutdown the charge and discharge, thanks

[@EmilyAndClark]

You should check with the battery maker for the official answer. But if you want to use 12v li in series I feel you should use a battery balancer. I used one in the Duffy conversion video I did last month. Take a look at that. The one I used was inexpensive as those things go, and seemed to work well.

[@mikefetterman6782]

I just read an article about the new sodium ion batteries. Hopefully their tech advances quickly for an even more efficient, safer, and cheaper alternative.

[@CFPVideoProductions]

You may be very right, don't hold your breath. It could be quit a while before we see them on an affordable market.

[@EmilyAndClark]

I just heard that Tesla is switching to LiFePO4. That will drive the prices way up or way down!

[@luckistryke13]

I plan to replace my 2018 4Runner OEM battery with AGM Yellow Top Optima battery. At this price point should I get this lithium battery? Will this battery work with my 170w solar panel and Renogy controller? The solar panel charges my ARB fridge, Bluetti power station, and top off my battery. Thanks

[@EmilyAndClark]

This battery wouldn't be a good starter battery. Optima are great for that. This would be more of a house battery but you are using a bluetti for that. Also I think you need a BankManager to charge li right especially when you want to mix it with lead

[@anandasmom]

I have a question. If I have intentions of getting four batteries to hook up inlune what size solar panels do I need to keep them going? Does this even make sense?

[@EmilyAndClark]

Panels make power. Batteries store power You size your panels and your storage to how you use power. I think I'd get the Feence battery over this one unless you really liked the USB port. You might like to watch my other battery reviews. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jKSlpXSopM5_qtE

[@coeniejvr]

how did you work out the total amps that it give out at the end, like you said the battery is 108A? I brought a solar deep cycle battery and the guy said they 100ah but i got a feeling it less.

[@EmilyAndClark]

I think I described it in the video. I fully charged it and discharged it through that resister pack measuring the amps drawn. The amps go down as the voltage slumps. Then I just calculated the "area under the curve" to get total amp hours. Likely the number would be slightly lower if I drew more amps but 6 amps is close to the average draw a house battery would be expected to produce on average.

[@merlpriester]

When using your BBMS. Could you use it to split 2 banks of LiFePo2 batteries of different brands and purchased at different times?

[@EmilyAndClark]

Yes. That's an astute observation. I will be taking a redodo 200 amp battery onto Temptress for evaluation. It might not be a great idea to mix li of different manufacturers, so I'm going to put them on separate BankManagers. That way they will end their charge cycles independently. They will only be connected during discharge, should be ok but I'll learn more when I try it. I think most cheap batteries are likely using similar BMSs. My existing lithiums are Battleborn, probably quite different.

[@tikvahspagepage8760]

Some people never played with RC toys. Drones.

[@kennyhaworth9606]

Clark which battery should I buy for a 24v trolling motor for my boat it’s a 80lb thrust Thanks

[@EmilyAndClark]

I'll be reviewing some interesting batteries next month. I haven't cut them apart yet but the Redodo seems interesting. Get a 24v single battery as long as you can handle the weight.

[@Dennis_is_Outside]

What about using a 12v battery heater to maintain the battery temperature during charging in cold temps?

[@EmilyAndClark]

Lots of people do this.

[@GeorgeShook-su8fs]

This is what I'm trying to find out because if you're on solar charging in the winter time and it's 40 belleau and your battery is equivalent to that temperature. To charge it by solar energy is going to ruin that battery?

[@EmilyAndClark]

Yes. Charging a frozen LiFePO4 cell is going to kill it. I'm not certain this battery is adequately protected. If freezing is a concern you should consider another battery from my leaderboard that you will find linked in the description of this video.

[@Elk99886]

hey, what do you think of Krohm batteries? I heard they were cheaper than the rest of the market rn and they dont contribute to toxic waste which is a plus

[@EmilyAndClark]

Don't look like anything special. Not particularly cheap

[@EmilyAndClark]

Maybe I'm missing something.

[@EmilyAndClark]

I guess they are starter batteries. High C rate discharge.

[@Elk99886]

Thanks! I wish someone would do a review on them but I'm glad for the advice 👍

[@EmilyAndClark]

Where did you hear about them? Are you associated with them?

[@rockerdad2]

Which one is good for a trolling motor, 55lb thrust? any ideas would really help us out? Thank You.

[@EmilyAndClark]

Find out how many amps it draws I'd bet about 60 or 70. Get a battery with a BMS that can pass at least that much. Any battery on my leader board except for the cheap pup and Feence should do the job. I'd seriously consider the Redodo mini. Easy to store and carry.

[@twab1980]

Do these lithium batteries work without solar? What components in my trailer (not RV) would I need to change to make it work with a generator for charging?

[@EmilyAndClark]

Easiest way.. www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms

[@sandybeach4360]

Great review, but out of stock now. Something similar available?

[@EmilyAndClark]

I'm being sent one that looks interesting. No cold temperature shut down at all but good price. It will be some months before I can say anything about it good or bad beyond what they tell me. It will be on the table in a video coming soon,. With a discount code in the description. But won't have a review until it's installed in Temptress for some time.

[@davej7434]

Bummer, I live in a cold climate, Wisconsin, so I would need to move these to the inside of the trailer, I can't leave them on the outside in the battery box, if cold outside I cant heat it until spring. :) I didn't hear you say that it had an built in heater, hoes it? Thank you.

[@EmilyAndClark]

I discuss that a bit in this video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pZXLpniXqqapgrc I just started filming for a battery I'll publish a review on this weekend. It claims cold protection

[@EmilyAndClark]

And is really cheap