Check Hybrid System Warning Light

[@igorl8367]

I had a sudden loss of power and triangle of death also showed. I was able to coast on hybrid battery for about a mile. Then towed it to a dealer. I was afraid it would be expensive, but they actually fixed it for free. Turns out, most of the hybrid things like inverter, relays, etc - are under some mysterious forever warranty.

[@LoganDidItYT]

I’m glad it wasn’t more serious! But, I didn’t know they were covered “forever”- that’s awesome.

[@hedgehogthesonic3181]

So what they fixed on your Prius, what was it???

[@LoganDidItYT]

If you’re asking me, it was a head gasket and water pump.

[@hedgehogthesonic3181]

@@LoganDidItYT Well that sucks

[@cjackfly]

​@@LoganDidItYTthey're, "covered forever"? That's why I just bought one from a guy who was told by the dealership that it would be $22,000 to fix. I got this sweet 2007 Yota High Hy for $700. Now trying to figure it out. Got it to say, "READY" but immediately the Check Hybrid System light turns back on. I'm thinking it just needs a GOOD new main battery. Nothing to do with the Hybrid stuff at all. What do you think?

[@MeyersCTR]

I know someone mentioned a code reader. I got one to use on my wife’s car that had a maintenance nag, but didn’t say what maintenance. The day it came in, my car (Prius) wouldn’t start and then started showing the “check hybrid system” error. With the code reader, I immediately determined the 12v battery was too low and what charge it did have drained very quickly. I ran a more in depth check and got an error code having to do with the hybrid system. Searched the internet and if pointed me to a few KZbin videos for an easy fix - the drive battery disconnect wasn’t locked properly. Easy fix. I’m glad I spent the 13.99 or whatever I spent on the reader. I was going to have it towed to the dealer first business day. That would have cost me large multiples of 13.99. Get a reader. With all that going on in your electronics, I couldn’t imagine it not giving you some clues to go on. Good luck. Your problems scare the heck outa me.

[@LoganDidItYT]

I did get a hybrid system warning with a low 12 volt before. But, my problems were a bit more involved than that- head gasket and water pump(s). It took a few water pumps to get a good one, but it’s been good for a while now.

[@aibekakmat3696]

You saved my day at 6:05. Thank you so much!

[@LoganDidItYT]

Awesome!! I’m glad to have helped!!

[@OMC0624]

This is the final! I replaced what you guys recommended for all problem parts and have studied for, last 6 months. The problem source for the rattling or misfire is the head gasket. I did all... replaced the spark plugs, fuel injectors, ignition coil, EGR valve, EGR Cooler, PCV valve, and Intake manifolds... After replacing the above parts, it's good for a few days then rattling again. The rattling for a few month then the engine will be broken. The problem cylinder which keeps misfiring has lost compression (most cases are cracked on a piston but its piston keeps moving because of the other cylinders' firing then the piston arm hit the engine wall and made a hole. The engine is broken. This is the future steps of your rattling Prius. The most reason for the misfiring is a head gasket problem near the problem cylinder if the same misfiring is keep going after replacing the spark plug or ignition coil. I see many of the same cases and am very upset about how can Toyota make the engine like this?

[@LoganDidItYT]

A blown head gasket can eventually cause a hole in the engine block or bent piston rod. Why this happens is because you cannot compress a liquid; there is liquid coolant leaking into your cylinder which can’t be burnt and when it’s compressing it can only do one of two things: bend a rod, break through your block.

[@markallison8854]

​@@LoganDidItYTmy 2008 Toyota Prius. There is a connection right above the battery going towards the blower motor for the battery. This connection gets corroded from a leak in the hatch . This happens to all 2004 to 2009 Prius. Every TOYOTA Prius I have bought I put electric grease on it and have bypass the connection and hard wire it in . This control wires are for the fan and will shutdown the car and have the triangle of death

[@markallison8854]

​@@LoganDidItYTI also sealed my back hatch as it leaks around the bolt holes for the cylinders supports and 2 bumper stops they have bolt holes.

[@cjackfly]

​@@markallison8854good connections and basically new batteries are key with these things.

[@daverobbo27]

I had a similar noise. I disconnected the electric connector plug on the egr. Noise went and had better mpg. Mine has 270k miles on it now and sometimes comes up with check hybrid system on the dash. Think it's ready for the knackers yard.

[@LoganDidItYT]

Good advice!!

[@LoganDidItYT]

I’d say yours is a head gasket.

[@TonytheYorkie]

I had my 2011 Prius with 215,000 miles do the rattle a few cold mornings and i found out it was the head gasket. I ended up using half of Blue Devil head gasket sealer Pour n Go bottle. I followed instructions and looped the heater core hose so it would not get clogged up. My wife and i thought i had to replace the engine but the next morning it no longer showed white steam and havent lost any coolant. Just to be safe i also drained and refilled with clean coolant. The performance was kinda bad and felt sluggish and i had read it was due to clogged PVC valve,EGR,EGR cooler, and intake manifold, so i though i could just pour a lot of B12 chemtool in the gas tank to clean carbon out but no luck. I finally took apart all the parts above and used my pressure washer and carb cleaner to leave them like new and car runs way better now! Let me tell you that the EGR cooler was 100% clogged! I sprayed almost 1 can of carb cleaner and nothing came out the other side until i pressured washed it. Definetly keep an eye on those parts with any 3rd gen prius. I also got the Check Hybrid warning on dash but i just forgot to slide the orange connector back on properly. It had me worried!

[@LoganDidItYT]

I did most of what you’re saying to clean everything. And, I fixed the EGR, but now I’m almost certain it’s a head gasket (even though there is no coolant in the oil). I will put this in the next Prius video, but: I had some weird codes after the EGR fix, and after this video and clearing the codes it did start smoking white, so it’s definitely burning coolant.

[@TonytheYorkie]

@@LoganDidItYT you should try the white label Blue Devil pour n go head gasket sealer. I used only half the bottle and unhooked the heater core hoses and looped them with the plastic tubing from the flush and fill kit at walmart. Any tubing that can handle 220f or more that fits both the heater core hoses is fine. It worked for me and i dont know how long it will last but if it buys me another 15k miles then i'm happy. I also put it in maintenance mode for 55mins with heater on high per bottle instructions.

[@LoganDidItYT]

@@TonytheYorkie that was one thing I’d considered. I ordered a head gasket, but I’ve gone back and forth between what I’m going to do. I may try that first, though.

[@caioghiotto]

I was there just like you. Same exactly problem. Same mileage. I started calculating the fixing options and unfortunately it's not worth fixing it. By the time you got it working with the gasket sealant you should drive to a dealer and trade with something.

[@royflores9987]

I had the same problem I changed the head gaskets and now the car is running perfect

[@HelpingHandAutoRepair]

Did you solve the rattling? Or is that still present also? Do you have a code reader? Have you check for codes?

[@LoganDidItYT]

I’m getting one tomorrow to check, not entirely sure if it’ll read all the codes. The rattle is still there but goes away after a few seconds- so the EGR valve itself could be bad. I didn’t replace it just cleaned all the EGR stuff. The intake may need more cleaning too. Or, I was talking to a Toyota service guy today and he said something about an EGR that’s been bad for a while can cause all that stuff to work down on the springs of the clutch and the rattle will, according to him, never go away.

[@HelpingHandAutoRepair]

@@LoganDidItYT If you have any misfire codes, have you replaced the spark plugs and/or coil packs? Did you clean out the little egr ports in the intake manifold I mentioned to you in the last video?

[@LoganDidItYT]

@@HelpingHandAutoRepair I did clean the intake, but I’m wondering if I didn’t clean it good enough. I didn’t check the plugs just yet, but it runs for 10 mins and does what it does in the video. Shuts down. It’s almost predictable how it does it now.

[@HelpingHandAutoRepair]

@@LoganDidItYT I see, I’m sure you know as well but I don’t think the two are related. Hopefully you can get some codes out of there to point you in the right direction.

[@HelpingHandAutoRepair]

@@LoganDidItYT you probably cleaned it just fine. Makes me thing your spark plugs (especially if they have never been replaced) and /or a few coil packs might be bad if the codes come back pointing to a specific cylinder.

[@OrbOPic]

Hi Logan... try taking off your intake manifold cleaning that theres vids on youtube an also beneath that theres a AC valve clean that to or replace with a newbie.... vid on youtube too. also put some engine flush in then dump your oil, put new oil in with a new oil filter then clean your VVT valve with carbi cleaner gett all biuldup off it so thats nice an shiny in the recesses/channels n' center pin theres vids on that too.. see how that goes.. lets hope it not a head gasket there'd be build up under the coolant cap... but sounds like intake/vacuum related.

[@rakunfps]

Great info, not experiencing these issues yet but might as well tackle some of these things before they become a problem. Really appreciate the descriptive comment though!!

[@OMC0624]

This is the final! I replaced what you guys recommended for all problem parts and have studied for, last 6 months. The problem source for the rattling or misfire is the head gasket. I did all... replaced the spark plugs, fuel injectors, ignition coil, EGR valve, EGR Cooler, PCV valve, and Intake manifolds... After replacing the above parts, it's good for a few days then rattling again. The rattling for a few month then the engine will be broken. The problem cylinder which keeps misfiring has lost compression (most cases are cracked on a piston but its piston keeps moving because of the other cylinders' firing then the piston arm hit the engine wall and made a hole. The engine is broken. This is the future steps of your rattling Prius. The most reason for the misfiring is a head gasket problem near the problem cylinder if the same misfiring is keep going after replacing the spark plug or ignition coil. I see many of the same cases and am very upset about how can Toyota make the engine like this?

[@rosaritomex4223]

I took my 2012 prius with 175k miles to Tijuana Mexico they installed a fle- pro headgasket for $500 was done in 4 hrs.

[@LoganDidItYT]

Wow. That’s not bad at all

[@jasperj8021]

Do you have the shop address

[@HAMADBAHI]

Hello brother my prius 2012 model problem is that engine check light and traction light is on in same time after car didn't switch to battery

[@LoganDidItYT]

But the engine is running, just doesn’t go to battery operation?

[@HAMADBAHI]

@@LoganDidItYT yes bro engine is running not change to the battery

[@HAMADBAHI]

@@LoganDidItYT what is this problem please tell me

[@HAMADBAHI]

@@LoganDidItYT I showed the first car to the mechanic two days ago, he said that 2 cells are bad, so I changed those two cells and when I drove the car, the engine lighted on

[@HAMADBAHI]

@@LoganDidItYT ?

[@Romandaud]

I had the same issue and about the songs and I changed the plugs and quels it turned to be good

[@LoganDidItYT]

I’m glad to hear that! What I’ve learned since owning this car is that there are numerous things from low 12 volt battery to head gasket that can throw a master warning code. I’m glad to hear yours was a relatively simple fix!

[@lilmsgs]

I think youtube has shadow banned me. Can anyone see this comment?

[@MrPhotodoc]

💯

[@LoganDidItYT]

✋

[@ntulsian]

No

[@lilmsgs]

@@ntulsian wow, that's a year old. I forgot about that

[@michaelambrose2736]

To the person that made this video, thank you! I'm experiencing this same problem right now. What ended up being the problem?

[@LoganDidItYT]

Hey! Well, it was a combination of things. My issues were the water pump and head gasket. A few things can cause the master warning though, so I’d suggest buying an inexpensive code reader and checking to see what comes back from that (I have a video on that too).

[@royflores9987]

I had the same problem, I change the head gaskets and now the car is running perfect.

[@LoganDidItYT]

Good! I’m glad you got it fixed!!

[@brit2919]

head gasket , the reason is water pond goes bad living head gasket to over heat, so change head gasket and water pond

[@LoganDidItYT]

Yep, I made some later videos where I did fix both of those!

[@scooby-tm8yk]

fuel pump maybe (it will give a triangle error).

[@LoganDidItYT]

I made a few other videos on this, it ended up being a combination of things but ultimately the head gasket.

[@rosaritomex4223]

If you get p 300 p 301 p302 p303 p304 cylinder misfire its a headgasket 2010 to 2016 its common 150k 190k miles.

[@LoganDidItYT]

Yep! It was the head gasket. I made some other videos. It wasn’t the only issue, but it was the big one obviously.

[@jasondominguez8434]

That’s your water pump making that whining noise, needs to be replaced

[@LoganDidItYT]

You’re right! I made some later videos where I fix that and some other things. There were a few issues all at once.

[@umairsohail828]

It’s your fuel pump it has gone bad basic problem with the prius don’t replace it just make sure you keep that tank over half . I have the same issue with my 2011 prius

[@LoganDidItYT]

Nope not the fuel pump for this one. It was a combination of things: water pump then head gasket.

[@terryterry1655]

Egr?

[@LoganDidItYT]

I did check and clean all the EGR stuff, and intake ports, but it ended up being a head gasket (plus some other things); it all seemed to really snowball.

[@rosaritomex4223]

If its your dc inverter it has a unlimited miles warranty 15 years i got mine replaced for free.

[@LoganDidItYT]

That’s good to know, I didn’t know that!

[@DarthShazbot]

Intake manifold! Just did this with my 2010. Change the PCV valve while you have it apart! Don't skip out on it!

[@LoganDidItYT]

Yep! But it also turned out to be the head gasket… unfortunately. I have it in a later video. I had a few problems all at once.

[@DarthShazbot]

I did actually do the head gasket as well before the intake. I didn't think it was related though because after the gasket, it still shook. Did you do your intake first, and it still shook??

[@LoganDidItYT]

@@DarthShazbot I cleaned the intake completely and the EGR cooler, etc. still did it and got worse. I then found coolant in my oil AFTER that, so it was confirmation to me.

[@chadvandyke2201]

Inverter cooling pump and leaking head gasket

[@LoganDidItYT]

Close! Water pump died at the same time as the water temp sensor and the head gasket was leaking.

[@MrLsj1984]

That's the gasket

[@LoganDidItYT]

You’re right! That’s what it was, well one of the things.

[@diydantex6150]

You can get a code reader for under $60 that will read the hybrid codes and give live data on the inverter and battery. The Topdon topscan is one. The topdon requires a phone or tablet. I have reviewed a few scanners on my channel. In the US there is a very good warranty on the inverter. For $25 you can get 2 day access to Toyota manuals so you can see what you are checking.

[@LoganDidItYT]

Yep! Mine is a Bluetooth scanner and works great; only $30 on Amazon!

[@diydantex6150]

@@LoganDidItYT do you get all 250 hybrid PIDs in the live data view? If so that is a good deal.

[@LoganDidItYT]

This one uses an app and can link with any app. I use the free Car Scanner app and it does show all of it. The only thing it can’t show is the traction battery data (hybrid specific stuff), but Dr. Prius does and it’s free too.

[@animefan7931]

May seem like a dumb question but after looking through the comments and replies and pausing on your radiator overflow tank it appears you have no coolant in it. Could you be overheating the ICE?

[@LoganDidItYT]

Not a dumb question! At that point I had put water in it instead of coolant - but it had some in it (albeit not full) because I had checked the water pump when I got a code for it. It was the head gasket. I did end up replacing the pump, which I show in a later video, but at this time I had taken it off to see if there was resistance. I just didn’t show it in the video.