Checking my Warco WM180 1 Year on

So after owning this Warco WM180 Mini Lathe now for over a year I thought it was a good idea to check it all over and I was very surprised with the results.
In this video I will show you how to check your
X-axis accuracy
Y-axis accuracy
DRO accuracy
Tailstock alignment
And something I've been meaning to do for a while find out once and for all does the Warco Wm180 have tappered roller bearings as standard in its headstock.
As always if you haven't already please Subscribe to keep up to date with the Latest in and around the Workshop.
/ machiningwithjoe

[@jonofalltradesmasterofnone832]

Joe Another great video I’ve had my WM180 for over 10 ears and apart from a faulty motor which warco replaced free of charge by return post it has been a great little lathe. I only live 10 miles from their warehouse and show room really Friendly and helpful. Jon.

[@MachiningwithJoe]

Thanks Jon glad you enjoyed I’m just happy i now know once and for all the bearing setup either way this lathe was getting tappered roller bearings when It gets put back together. Glad to hear yours is going strong.

[@dermotkelly2971]

Must be a good lathe then! Congratulations on the upcoming birth of your new baby.

[@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian]

Interesting results obtained when comparing the DRO with the dials and the dial indicator. In the end the DRO is no more than a guide and final dimensions are confirmed by use of a micrometer. Interesting video. Thank you. 👏👏👍😀Andrew Best wishes for the coming baby. 😀

[@MachiningwithJoe]

Thanks Andrew yeah it was interesting filming as well because I have never confirmed how accurate the DRO or hand wheels are so was good to find out. And thank you

[@Richard-nb4iv]

Hey Joe, I'm a subscriber that just bought a similar lathe, A WM-210. It great to see that it comes with the thrust bearings. I have yet to turn a part, still in the cleaning and setup phase. The runout of the three sided chuck out of the box is .001" so that's pretty decent I figure. Thanks for the update!

[@MachiningwithJoe]

Hi Richard welcome to the channel and thank you for taking the time to Subscribe. Yeah it’s definitely a bonus finding out this lathe came with tappered bearings. All the best happy machining.

[@mictaylor9531]

Good video that Joe! 👍🏻 Thanks

[@MachiningwithJoe]

Thanks Mic glad you enjoyed.

[@artisanmakes]

Really impressed that the lathe came with tapered roller bearings. Some new grease and it should be good to go. Judging by how the lathe performed for you, the preload was properly set from the factory. Cheers and best of luck over the next few weeks, take care and hope to see you back soon.

[@MachiningwithJoe]

Yeah I too am impressed I would love to know if this is how they come from China or if it’s something Warco do before sending them out to the consumer. Thanks dude I will be back before you know it.

[@melgross]

It’s not so much the type of bearings that matter, but the quality of those bearings. You can buy very cheap taper bearings, and very expensive angular contact bearings specifically made for precision machine spindles. I’m not saying these are bad, by the way, just that the type doesn’t mean much. The Monarch 10EE, which many people have heard of, and one of the most precise lathes ever built uses angular contact bearings. That machine new today begins at $168,000!

[@melgross]

@@MachiningwithJoe it’s standard. These are the same machines that Precision Mathew’s sells in the USA, Canada and elsewhere. The only thing these importers do is specify the color and the name.

[@marketingmixture]

Great little lathe I have one - Tnx Joe

[@MachiningwithJoe]

Yeah they are great bits of kit.

[@19mati67]

The MX600A(Vevor) comes with those tapered bearings as well. It would be nice, if you could make a video about how to set the preload on these bearings. Gongrats for the baby!

[@MachiningwithJoe]

Hi Tibor glad to hear other hobbyist lathes come with tappered bearings to. If you are interested I have a video where I rebuilt my mill spindle and the process for bearing adjustment is almost identical. kzbin.info/www/bejne/sInVnpSmZaeUeck

[@19mati67]

@@MachiningwithJoe I haven't even machined with it yet, so I have to see how it goes. In my opinion, the milling machine deals with more side forces, so maybe a roller bearing is more suitable for that. But I will see how it goes, after I machine with it. I'm waiting for a DRO kit to arrive from Ali. A regular type(glass), not magnetic, or caliper style. I will install something similar, like yours on my lathe(8.7" x 23.6").

[@neilwallace8989]

I never use the hand wheel dials. I always use the DRO to get close, say within .5mm, then get the micrometer or callipers on the job and zero the DRO again.

[@marcoserra3798]

Fantastic video and explanations....so,if i understand well,the dro is more accurate?how to preload the tapeted roller bearings correctly? Thank you!

[@MachiningwithJoe]

Hi Marco I have actually done a video previously on rebuilding my mill spindle bearings where I have to preload them so might be worth watching.

[@marcoserra3798]

@@MachiningwithJoe thank you!!

[@Martin-nt2mm]

Hi Joe, just been watching you check you lathe. Your digital readout shows X and Y but on a lathe the Z axis is the longitudinal and the X axis is the cross slide. I think the readout is for a milling machine.

[@MachiningwithJoe]

Hi Martin I did buy it direct from warco but I get what your saying it makes sense

[@stacysimon8864]

Great video Joe. I do have a pretty big critique though, axis designation. On a lathe, X axis is the cross slide (not called a top slide). Z axis is the carriage (axis parallel to spindle). Y axis is used for a milling attachment. It is common practice to use DRO's that show X/Y on a lathe, but Y is Z, X is always perpendicular to spindle. I know it would be difficult to change your thinking after a year, but you should really try. Please don't take this as a rant. Just thought you should know.

[@MachiningwithJoe]

Yes very good point Stacy I always get mixed up between the mill Z axis where is is 3 dimensional and the lathe. I think because the DRO labels it as X and Y I just look up and see that. Very good points though. Never a rant always good to hear constructive feedback

[@Marcel8070911]

Hello Joe, Where did you buy that dro?

[@johncoops6897]

The error between handwheel and X Axis might be because your leadscrew is 1.5mm pitch and the handwheel is "converted from imperial", or visa-versa. I seem to remember that the imperial lathes of this design have 0.040" increments on the same handwheel dial diameter. I cannot remember the exact details of this, but have some memory that there is an oddness to this aspect of the lathes.

[@Mexmanix]

Nice video Joe; just a constructive critique, if you look at the lens on your camera rather than the monitor you will be looking direct at the viewer not off to the side, otherwise it comes across as talking to someone off to the side.. or a brick wall.

[@MachiningwithJoe]

Yeah very good point I’ve just got to remind myself each time to do so now, as I’ve got in the habit of looking at the screen. Thank you for you feedback 👍

[@dr1verman]

I am impressed the headstock bearings are Taper Roller, would have been a shame if they were just ball bearings like the cheap lathes 🙂

[@MachiningwithJoe]

Yeah me to I wasn’t sure and finally I have my Answer.

[@kencroft7933]

I see you have no chuck guard. How did you disable the safety switch?

[@MachiningwithJoe]

I left the safety switch and arm in place and just unbolted the guard in the down position.

[@abzyberdy]

What is the bearing number/ type?

[@sareythun69]

How to upgrade motor for cutting treads?

[@MachiningwithJoe]

So the lathe can cut threads from standard with the lathe motor. If you wanted to cut threads with the electronic lead screw I advise you watch Clough42 video on this as there is a fair bit involved.