Chevy 283 small block budget build ep1

I bought an old 283 for cheap to do as a budget build for the channel. It begins now.

[@Rob-xj3xh]

Wish there were more home videos like yours. Easily understandable and done by and everyday guy.

[@Foxcanfixit]

@@Rob-xj3xh thank you

[@boydoesititch]

Nice tear down and looks to be a pretty clean example of a solid starting point. My first engine build back in early high schoool was a 283 out of my '64 impala coupe back in 1992. It was bored .030 with cast flattops, balanced, and .010 under on the forged crank. The power pack heads were rebuilt, but the guides were knurled, not replaced. Equipped with an Edelbrock performer cam, timing chain and intake and untuned Q-jet it ran VERY respectably in a large car with a powerglide and stock rear gears. I would steer clear of overcamming this engine as it needs as much torque as possible and a L79 cam or larger than 270 duration would be going in the completely wrong direction unless you have a very light application and plan on keeping the revs over 3500. If I were to do it over I would source a pair of Vortec 305 (L30) heads, which are not only feature better flowing ports and larger valves, but small chambers, hardened exhaust seats, better valve springs and are CHEAP and readily available. One $$ drawback is you'll need a Vortec compatible intake, but they are readily available. While the small journal rods had slightly smaller 11/32 rod bolts, they were anything but weak, especially if the bolts were replaced with ARP hardware. Good luck with your build and excited to see it running.

[@Foxcanfixit]

Thanks for all the advice! I will definitely keep an eye out for those 305 heads, and I am just stepping up the cam a little bit, nothing crazy.

[@111000100101001]

Very nice score on the 283. My buddy’s CJ is an absolute blast to drive with one in it and very street mannered at the same time :)

[@Turningwrenches85]

Always like seeing a good old engine build . Im sure its going to be in a future project

[@Foxcanfixit]

Yep, building the engine, then I’ll find a car to put it in, I’m kinda leaning towards and El Camino

[@OlysGarage]

I have a feeling this one is gonna be a really good runner when you are done with it!

[@Foxcanfixit]

Man I hope so!

[@rickyrunner7619]

one bad little motor if done right whooped ass on them big blocks back in the day

[@Foxcanfixit]

@@rickyrunner7619 factory 220hp version sure ran good in the CJ-5 I put it in.

[@MinnesotaisRust]

Duct tape on the box is a good idea--a little oil soak, and it can get mushy quick!

[@Foxcanfixit]

If I start doing more engines I’ll make one out of a piece of 2x4 or 4x4! 😀

[@tomrogers9467]

The first car I drove was my dad’s 65 BelAir with a 283. Sweet engine. It outlasted the rest of the car.

[@Foxcanfixit]

It is a very durable design, that’s why small block Chevys are so popular

[@BustedBuilt]

I know some people like to organize their push rods and rockers but a pushrod or rocker does not know what cylinder it is on. I do understand personal opinion and to each their own. Great video

[@Foxcanfixit]

I agree, it makes zero difference 99% of the time. Its really just organizing

[@user-david6265]

Yup that’s the same motor in my 65 ss chevelle

[@Foxcanfixit]

I think I’m just going to put a slightly hotter cam in it and home port/polish the heads and call it good.

[@rickyrunner7619]

you are damn lucky not to have dropped a hole in the block while you have it a part I would tear the lower end and do a complete over haul

[@larryburns4605]

Built a few with 601 305 heads good valve job and 264 isky solid cam with ls valve springs run great , and that steel shi will be .016 i use victor mahle 5746 gaskets .026 thick but i also decked block .

[@Foxcanfixit]

I would love to find a good set of those small chamber 305 heads, but I’m happy with these power pack heads. I will look into the isky 264 specs, thanks! And I think I am also sticking with the steel shim head gasket. Good stuff!

[@bobhilly546312156332]

I’ve never personally worried about keeping rockers and push rods in order

[@Foxcanfixit]

I only do it in case I find damage when I get deeper into the engine to help me find the cause or the extent of the damage

[@leonardfoster6252]

With a 3.55 ratio rearend gear works well also. Next would be the 3.70 gear...

[@Foxcanfixit]

It may be going in a Jeep CJ-5 with 3.54 gears.

[@leonardfoster6252]

There is nothing good about yhose heads except higher comp. Small valves... That 283 will run best with a set of 461 or 462 327 heads, 1.94" intake valve and 1.500" exhaust valve. Those heads have small intake ports. There is two cams that will work well with that 283. 327 350hp hydraulic cam or the bigger one, LT 1 350-350 hp. cam. .450" ,& 460" lift. Power right to 6,000rpm. Stock ram horn exhaust work good on the 283. They make a set that has 2 & 1/2" out let, more power for dual exhaust... A stock cast iron 327 intake works well for the 283 that came on a 300 hp. 327, AFB carb. Has bigger openings below carb and larger intake runners to match the 461 or 462 heads, double hump heads.

[@Foxcanfixit]

All great info thanks!

[@jimthomas1989]

I got those same valve covers , and the same engine

[@steveadams6631]

Steel shim to felpro 9 25 1 to 7.5 1 around that. Want to keep shim type on.

[@waygonner]

Cool motor! I’m building a 265 right now and did a 283 a few years ago. They are fun projects and perfect for a garage rebuild. Cheers!

[@Foxcanfixit]

Very cool!

[@OldCarGarageUSA]

283 is a good little engine. Same set up in my 64 Impala, .020 over, power pack heads, and rochester 4bbl. It's no hot rod, but is smooth and quiet. Curious to see what you'll be putting this one in.

[@Foxcanfixit]

Cheap with mostly stock stuff, still picky by a cam and deciding how much beadwork will be needed (guides, exhaust seats, milled or not, etc.)

[@user-david6265]

350 cam or L79 cam works with my 283

[@mikewillett5076]

​@@user-david6265. By "350" cam do you mean the basic run of the mill 350? Cause that's the same "929" cam that came in most basic small blocks from the mid 60s through the 70s, including the 283. The L79 cam is "ok" but on a smaller engine and already compression challenge, you want a more modern lobe with as little seat duration vs duration at .050". That L70 has about 290° advertised! while around 222° at .050". Comp has an Extreme Energy with 224° at .050" but only 268° advertised! More dynamic compression. That L79 doesn't really work like it should with under 10:1 ESPECIALLY in a 283.

[@user-david6265]

I’m taking 1969 370hp 350 SBC cam

[@mikewillett5076]

​​​@@Foxcanfixit. Sure it's a budget but don't go extra cheap on the cam. Older designs have a lot more advertised duration vs duration at .050", meaning lost cylinder pressure. Get at least a fairly modern design with under 55° between advertised and duration at .050". Also I wouldn't get some extra mild one either "because the engine is small." Unless a towing app or a stock stall power glide that is. Lol. 🐌 And don't use a 112° or wider LSA cam either. Just my suggestions. Best to your build!

[@stevewesley8187]

Original head gaskets were steel shim .019 compressed thickness

[@Foxcanfixit]

Thank you! That’s very helpful for when I order rebuild parts! 😀

[@jimthomas1989]

Felpro makes the same metal shim head gaskets but they don't have them in stock , you will have to order them at the same place you get Felpro gaskets . Do you want the part number because every time I build a engine they never heard of them and they want to sell me the blue ones and try to tell me that they are the same , until they arrive and they say , I didn't even know Felpro made those . And remove that tomatoe can and put a freeze plug in that back hole , they also make a oil filter conversion from canister to spin on oil filter , get those heads Ported and at least 11:1 compression pistons ( Forged ) And a good grind camshaft Aluminum intake and 4 barrel carb And she will will push 300+hp . I have built more small block Chevy engines than your family has fingers and toes

[@Foxcanfixit]

I would love the metal shim part number if you have it. Also good call on deleting the rear breather filter

[@jimthomas1989]

@@Foxcanfixit , on your other video about 3 weeks ago I sent you the part number but here it is again Felpro- 7733SH-1 I start at the number 1 head bolt , then Torque them in sequence to 20 foot pounds , then start at 1 again and Torque them all to 40 foot pounds , Then start at 1 again and torque them all to 70 foot pounds , Chevy recommends 65 foot pounds , but I have never had a problem in the 3 Step sequence of 20 , then 40 then 70 foot pounds , But you do what you think is best !

[@mikewillett5076]

Unless he's gonna run more than a 150 shot of N2O cast pistons are fine, even to 7,000+ in a 283. What concerns me are the rods. Used to think all small journal rods are the same but up to '66 they are definitely weaker (no problem if you stay below 5,500). The '66-'67 rods are beefier by the bolt crowns. Sure people have spun the early rods to high revs but it's a roll of the dice.

[@Foxcanfixit]

@@mikewillett5076 yep, for me it’s going to be mildly over stock, so no high revving monster.

[@jimthomas1989]

@@mikewillett5076, the 1969 Camaro that had the DZ 302 is a 283 crank in a 327 block and they have the better Connecting Rods , These engines could push 8,000rpm all day but since he is just building a mild daily driver , stock parts will be fine plus he will have some power when passing and cruising down the highway

[@speedylee69x]

I've never heard of any one keeping rocker's and push rods in order

[@Foxcanfixit]

The guy I learned from always did, but then again he was super organized about everything

[@speedylee69x]

@@Foxcanfixit I have a friend who builds race engines and never seen it done like that lol.

[@Foxcanfixit]

@@speedylee69x 🤷‍♂️ I learned in the mid 90’s from a guy that had been doing it since the 50’s. He was a machinist by trade,ante it was a holdover from machinist training

[@corbinhbucknerjr558]

@@FoxcanfixitYou are absolutely right. The ball ends on the pushrods are worked in over time to fit each rocker arm socket. If you reuse parts like that, keeping them in order is correct.

[@philippine_phin]

Whats the best way to decode my sbc? The stamped number (T0209D) on the front indicates its a 283. But the casting number (3789817) on the back comes up as a 327. Any suggestions?

[@Foxcanfixit]

Using The one on the front it seems is was a Tonawanda made in Feb and was a 195hp 283 2bbl carb with a powerglide trans. the 3789817 was a casting number for both engines

[@tizkool]

Lime Book

[@philippine_phin]

@@tizkool Does a machine shop have that book?

[@user-hk7cn7qb2v]

What is that thing that looks like a soup can in the intake. And what does it

[@Foxcanfixit]

It’s part of an old style crank case venting system before PCV valves

[@thomaswhite3831]

I always thought the pyramid heads were from a 327.

[@Foxcanfixit]

🤷‍♂️ this thing looks to have never been apart, or if so it was done a loooooong time ago

[@waygonner]

The power packs go back to the 50’s on 283’s. There may have been bigger valves on the 327 ones but I’m not positive

[@Foxcanfixit]

@@waygonner I’m not sure on the valves either. From what I have read, it’s cheaper to find a set of small chamber 305 heads than to get bigger valves and have the work done to this head.

[@waygonner]

@@Foxcanfixit For sure on the 305 heads. You want the H.O. Ones that came on Camaros in the 80’s. I used those on my 283 and it ran great. They had something like 1.84 or 1.86 intake valves. You don’t want the 1.94’s that came on a lot of 350’s. I think the original person commenting on the 327’s was probably referring to camel hump heads. I would def use power packs on a 265 like mine but would upgrade over that on a 283.

[@steveadams6631]

Thy also came on 250hp 327 62-4

[@leonardfoster6252]

Those are 4 barrel heads...That is a 65 or older block...

[@Foxcanfixit]

It is indeed. Came out of a 64 chevelle according to the stamping