Chevy Cruze 1.4L Bad oil leak. Timing cover gasket replacement.

[@unusedacct8833]

Highest quality automotive repair video I've ever seen on KZbin, or anywhere for that matter, and I've been connected online since the early 80s (before the Internet).

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

That is quite a compliment. Thank you very much!

[@johncarnivale6586]

I totally agree, man you should be on tv

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thats crazy. Thank you! Maybe some day you'll see me put on live classes...

[@ThePlaya545]

11:13

[@juanguzman1411]

Greetings and blessings my friend I have all in position’ so my question is if i can tighten up the crankshaft balancer bolt with lockinh pin installed thanks in advance

[@edgarflores5407]

This guy is a professional. He took his time to take the video and explain everythigh ...high five sir You deserve it.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thank you very much! I do what I can.

[@matthewlobberecht6187]

I don't think the way he did that gasket maker on the oil pan is the "professional" way.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

@@matthewlobberecht6187 that’s interesting. How would you do it?

[@matthewlobberecht6187]

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist well I'm not saying you didn't actually do it the way I do it but by what I saw in the video you didn't which was take ur finger and spread it around the pan while not lifting ur finger until it's done. And use light pressure so you can allow the gasket material to be as thick as possible. Generally the service manual says 1/4" bead all the way around so when it mates to the block and squishes, it cuts that thickness in half which is adequate sealing.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

@@matthewlobberecht6187 yeah, I used to do that. I took enough of them apart over the years and it doesn’t seem to make a difference on machined surfaces. That method works really well with old cork gaskets though.

[@sergeantmajordyi7049]

This has been the beat video I've seen to date with perfect video and explanations while working. You are the definition of a Master Mechanic. Look forward to viewing your channel.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Wow thank you very much! I appreciate that. Stay tuned!

[@michaelm9581]

Been driving my car a few days now and I felt compelled to make sure anyone watching this video knows how doable this is for the average person as long as they follow this dudes instruction. I’ve used my Haynes book to complete numerous repairs on my silly Cruze that’s going on 200k now. This video is 10 times more useful than the Haynes write up. Use this video and only mess with the Haynes when it comes to torque specs. Successfully completed due to this KZbin video. Only thing I’d do is mark a couple bolts on the engine cover, there’s 2 larger bolts on the side engine cover, and they thread perfectly into the engine mount holes…don’t do that lol.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thank you! That was what I was hoping for. Im very glad this video could help you.

[@marbledad]

replaced oil pan gasket for the third time only to start the car up and lay under and visibly see the drip coming from the timing cover. what is the tool kit i need to for the timing?

[@us3804]

@@marbledad does it come from front crankshaft oil seal? is there also squik sound?

[@hassansuleiman2499]

I Boght the Turbo Engine Timing Tool Kit the torque wrench sealant and did everything like he did in this video step for step cleaned the oil pan the cranck cover the same and i had noting happened thank you for video man you helped alot thank you one of the best to show others like myself how to do it

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Excellent! Glad to hear you were successful. Thank you for watching!

[@Boblee1975]

A pleasure watching you work ! Would love to have you working on my Chevy.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thanks for watching!

[@chrisheffernan7540]

Unbelievable how good this guy is. I have owned my 2015 Cruze 1.4 since it was 10 months old. I have had numerous antifreeze leaks and a couple of oil leaks. Quite possibly the leakiest engine GM has ever made. Looking forward to the day I no longer own it.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thank you very much! Yes these engines require constant inspection for leaks.

[@jodygwiinn1233]

Oil leak engineered so btm chais doesnt rust out keeps lubed up

[@capricedembek2249]

I have a 15 too and have so many issues. Dealing with this leak now.

[@ImRanchWilder]

​@@capricedembek2249I bought my 2014 1.4l turbo brand new. I've never had coolant or oil leaks til I hit around 100k miles. Thermostat, water outlet and others all leaked recently. And radiator cracked on the black plastic recently. But now I'm dripping oil underneath. I haven't pin pointed it yet. It's burning and smoking from the top too

[@jarna555]

Your video is fantastic and displays a high level of professionalism. I kindly request the list of tools required for the process, as well as a parts list and information regarding the materials used, particularly the liquid gasket. Thank you

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thank you very much! From memory.... Use at your own risk. You will need a basic mechanics tool kit of 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive metric sockets and wrenches, etc. Razor blades for scraping and cleaning. Gloves. Shop towels. Floor jack. Jack stands. Safety glasses. Service Manual. Torque wrench. You'll need a torx socket set, and also an External Torx socket set, also known as E Torx. You'll need special service tools: EN-952 Fixing Pin EN-953-A Fixing Tool EN-955-10Fixing Pin from EN-955Kit or equivalent aftermarket kit, many are available online. 1 - valve cover gasket.... must replace 2 - cam actuator solenoid seals 1 - water pump kit with gasket..... most likely leaking, inspect it 2 - water pump bolts... must replace...parts dept will help you 3 - engine mount bolts, mount to bracket....must replace 3 - engine mount bolts, bracket to engine block..... must replace 1 - serpentine belt....depends on condition and miles 1- serpentine belt tensioner....inspect it, failures are common at high miles 1 - front crankshaft balance bolt.... must replace 1 - front crankshaft seal.... must replace 1 - timing cover gasket..... must replace *1gal - Dexcool concentrate coolant or *2 - 50/50 pre-mix Dexcool coolant 5qt - engine oil 1 - oil filter 1 - catalytic converter to turbo clamp..... must replace... will likely break 1 - cat converter gasket, to turbocharger.... must replace 1 - cat converter to front pipe gasket.... must replace 1 - front pipe to muffler gasket..... must replace 3 - cat converter to front pipe nut... common to be rusted 2 - front pipe to muffler nut.....common to be rusted 1 - tube of sealant....AC Delco gray engine sealant. 1 - case of brake parts cleaner.....6 to 12 cans....get the non-chlorinated stuff or the smell will make you sick without ventilation If you're also replacing the timing chain and components you'll need 1 - intake cam actuator gear 1 - exhaust cam actuator gear 2 - cam actuator gear bolt 1 - timing chain upper shoe 1 - timing chain fixed shoe 1 - timing chain tensioner shoe 1 - timing chain tensioner 1 - timing chain 1 - crankshaft sprocket

[@pauldean9625]

I appreciate the owner good habit of changing oil.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

It is in excellent condition… I wonder if the engine has ever been replaced before but I did not see anything in the repair history about engine replacement.

[@solovinosolovino9450]

​@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialistawesome video I have a Buick encore which is the same engine as the car about how much this job cost because I'm afraid I got the same issue

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

@@solovinosolovino9450 thank you. Cost can vary. Approximately $1000 parts and labor to have this done.

[@ownSystem]

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialistwow 1000 dollars insane but worth it im assuming wow how long did it take to do this looks like it took hours to do like four hours

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

It’s about a 7 hour job.

[@bobfisher1909]

torque specs: Chevy Cruze Timing Cover Bolts Torque Specs (M6): 8 ft-lbs / Chevy Cruze Timing Cover Bolts Torque Specs (M10): 26 ft-lbs / This applies to all bolts on engine M6 in size. Oil Drain Plug Torque Specs : 18 ft-lbs. Exhaust Pipe Torque Specs : 15 ft-lbs water pump pulley Torque Specs : 16 ft-lbs Crankshaft Pulley Torque Specs : 74 ft-lbs + 75° Belt Tensioner Torque Specs : 41 ft-lbs Mount to Engine Torque Specs : 46 ft-lbs A/C Compressor / Alternator Torque Specs : 18 ft-lbs It is best when removing water pump to lay out the bolts on the ground according to position you are taking them out from as they are different lengths, if you have another pump put them into those corresponding holes and once the old one is off transfer them back into the old one in the right order. Cardboard is also good just make up a rough template. Thanks for the video very good, did you put RTV on both sides of the oil pan?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thank you for the comment Bob. Yes, I put a thin film on the block side to keep residue from getting on the surfaces before I bolted it up.

[@eclecticgentleman]

Do you have the water pump and oil pan torque specs? Also on the crankshaft you have 74 ft/lbs +75°, what does the 75° mean? Thanks

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

@@eclecticgentleman hello and thank you for commenting. The water pump bolt torque spec is 71 lb/in……there are two of the bolts that must be replaced and tightened an additional 30 degrees. The oil pan bolt torque spec is 89 lb/in The additional 75 degrees on the crankshaft bolt, you tighten the bolt an additional 75 degrees of rotation AFTER you torque to the specification…..the reason for this is we pre load the bolt by tightening to specification and then we turn the bolt a specific amount further for the most accurate bolt loading/stretch as possible.

[@eclecticgentleman]

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist you're awesome!!! I'm subscribing

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

@@eclecticgentleman thank you very much!

[@andrewshallow2476]

When you were sucking the coolant out around 19:25, that small bolt below the opening is a drain for that area.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Daaaaamn that’s what I get for skimming the service info. Good to know. I removed it by accident and said “that’s a plug for something” during the repair. That being said I do normally prefer to suction the coolant out anyway because it keeps the coolant from making a mess elsewhere. Water and coolant can be a pain to clean up in a normally oily environment. Thank you for the great comment Andrew.

[@rubindiaz7764]

Amazing work definition of detail 👌

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thank you!

[@rickt8325]

I did this job without the special tools, I used crescent wrenches on both cams and locked them down with vice grips and had no issues, the crank wont move, u just have to make sure the camshaft dont jump, I did it without any issues!!!

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Excellent. I’ve done something like that on a lot of different engines without trouble. However if you loosen the camshaft gear bolt you will definitely need the tools. Thank you Rick.

[@rickt8325]

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist most definitely, I watched your whole video before attempting it and u did great with explaining everything, great video, keep them coming.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

@@rickt8325 thank you very much! Actually I have a couple uploading in a few minutes so be sure to check it out.

[@Mark_Harmon35]

Im about to tackle this job on my 15 this weekend. But i also havta do the head gasket. Follow ur procedure then remove the head would be the right order to do the job correct. Video was very helpful before tackling this job.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Yes after you remove the timing chain the head gasket isn’t much more work to remove. Feel free to comment additional questions if needed. Thanks.

[@davidwaren6123]

If you take the oil feed line out the clamp goes right on. Then the oil line goes back in easier than fighting the clamp. Thanks for the video. I start my timing cover gasket this weekend. If it goes well I’ll do my 2nd Cruze right away!!!

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thanks for sharing. Check out the comments there have been many questions asked and answered thus far. Feel free to comment additional questions if needed. Thanks.

[@us3804]

Hey, how did it go?

[@cruzvcruz5752]

Did you do it

[@aidenrayner6444]

That degreaser can has got to be huge! lol great video :)

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Yep we have a 55gal drum on tap to refill our portable spray cans. Thank you!

[@jonathangaliano2617]

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist What kind of degreaser is it?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

@jonathangaliano2617 brake cleaner

[@santosdiaz9429]

What brand is the degreaser?

[@azizsiteli6554]

I have same problem , if you don’t mind How much cost that leaking repair to get fix

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thank you for commenting Aziz Siteli. The cost will vary a lot, approximately $1000 would be a middle price for parts and labor to have this done.

[@ronaldbrosius7488]

What kind of de greaser did you use?? I use solvent or brake cleaner, but man your stuff had a sold stream coming out!! I need some of that!!

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Zep brake cleaner out of a Wurth refillable can. They work pretty good, but the can doesn’t last more than two months before it leaks. We’ve switched to the Zep refillable cans and they’re pretty good too. You can buy refillable cans at most auto parts stores that can be charged with a tire inflator and whatever solvent you’d like. Those ones I like best, but slow to refill compared to the automated can refill systems.

[@jethercalope6378]

wow thank you so much for you efforts sir. my Trax leaks oil too. cheers from the Philippines!

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

I do what I can. Thank you very much!

[@nelsonuk3167]

You are professional You are so smart Thank for your sharing

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thank you very much!

[@nelsonuk3167]

I have the same car and the same problem

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Hopefully, you are able to get it fixed

[@gregorypowell9005]

i like the detail of your video

[@mariogauthier1957]

Nice job My friend I work for GM 26 year

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thank you Mario!

[@stephenwalczak3166]

Hi Mario, where you a GM mechanic? If so, do you know what to lubricant the rear main seal with or are they PTFE and go in dry? I put one in dry as there were no instructions in the repair manual, it failed. Thanks

[@BigDaddy-ih9de]

I finished the job yesterday and everything went smoothly! Thankfully I have the car running right now and nothing seems to be different, the only thing is that the check engine light came on and gave me a crankshaft code

[@BigDaddy-ih9de]

Will this code go away after a few miles of driving? Like others typically do with censers

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Good to hear. What code do you have?

[@BigDaddy-ih9de]

I didn’t get the exact code, but it has to do with the timing, did you get a code?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

@@BigDaddy-ih9de no I did not get any codes and the car is still driving on the road currently. You shouldn’t get any timing codes. Possible sensor left disconnected? Need to know what code you have.

[@BigDaddy-ih9de]

Yea I think I might have, it’s the crankshaft positioning sensor I believe, I’ll stop by an auto shop later today to get it read

[@stephenwalczak3166]

What an excellent professional video. This is exactly how to apply liquid gasket to an oil pan. Most people use too much and smear the sealer all over the surface with their finger and wonder why it starts leaking again. Have you had any experience with the rear main crankshaft oil seal,and if so, what is the best lubricant to use on installation? A bit of clean oil or a white lithium grease? I've done mine once 'dry' as the workshop manual didn't mention to use any lubrication and it failed. I thought it was maybe a PTFE seal, the fail tells me it probably wasn't. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. As I said the manual is no help and public option on the subject varies greatly. Thanks.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thank you for the comment Stephen. If it’s a lip seal with a spring I usually use chassis grease or oil to lubricate. If it’s a PTFE seal it must be installed dry or it will definitely leak.

[@eddiereichel9354]

I haven't seen timing cover leaks on these. I have seen the check valve in intake goes bad causing high crankcase pressure blows out everywhere. Also to any one doing this job or even pulling valve cover.check.the upper to.omg guide bolts. Guarantee they are hand tight.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thanks for sharing!

[@us3804]

Hi, Just bought this car a week ago and it is spillin oil right from valve cover( hopefully, hopefully from there..and also a funny smell comes when the engine heated) what do you suggest? I just thought it was the valve cover gasket and ordered only gasket.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

@@us3804 could be an oil leak from the valve cover.

[@haccoon5458]

That’s what mine is doing. Even after I fixed the check valve but it’s still leaking. Do you think just the crank seal is ruined or both and the new timing gasket?

[@us3804]

@@haccoon5458 can u pls tell me what is omg guide bolts?

[@diabolicaldoodle]

Saved me a lot of time mate. Excellent video. Subscribed 👍🏻🇦🇺

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thanks!

[@michaelm9581]

Thanks!

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thank you very much also for the first "Super Thanks" the channel has received. Very much appreciated!

[@allenscott228]

What does this kimd of repair cost in 2024? I think this is the problem on my son's 2015 Cruze LTZ. He had to drive it home 11hrs and about half way it started having smoke in the passenger side. It used about a quart of oil for the remaining 6hrs. Now there is oil all down the passenger side if the car as well as that side of the engine compartment.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Approximately $700-$1500 depending on what needs to be replaced. Thanks.

[@mohammeddmalik]

Fantastic video! One of the most details how to guides I've seen 👏 One question if you remember, is the oil pump built into the timing chain cover on these engines?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thank you very much! Yes the oil pump is mounted to the timing cover.

[@mohammeddmalik]

@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist thanks my friend!

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

@mohammeddmalik you are welcome

[@thunderchild321]

I liked step by step on how to correctly do dis..wen i get brave nuff i will do it

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Feel free to ask questions if needed. Thanks.

[@stevestock2439]

Wow amazing talent you have. Great camera placement, you did that with surgical precision. Can the cam alignment tools be rented someplace?? Many thanks.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thank you very much. You may be able to rent rent the tools from a local auto parts store if they have them… Kind of doubtful. If you have a good relationship with your local dealership, they may also loan you the tools… Again kind of doubtful. The tools are also available online.

[@BigDaddy-ih9de]

The code I got was a p0016 code which I think has to do with the chain being put on incorrectly if I’m not mistaken. But the care sounds fine with no issues. Would I be able to notice if the timing was off?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

It depends if the cam timing is off or the trigger wheel is off or both because on this engine neither is keyed to the shaft. The most common mistake on this job is not having the crankshaft tool fully inserted during assembly. Did you loosen the cam gear bolts at all?

[@michaelm9581]

At the point in which you begin handling the oil pan, where are you supporting the left side of the engine at? I didn’t see anything on the hooks, so is it supported underneath somewhere else?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

I gently rest the weight down on the other two mounts after removing the front mount bolts. Thanks for commenting.

[@mynamejeff7573]

Great video! Can you supply the part numbers for the timing cover gasket and the front main seal? Also can you supply the torque specs for the timing chain tensioner and cover bolts as well as the crank pulley bolt? Thank you

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

I don’t have the part numbers or torque specifications handy at the moment. Thanks.

[@tylergantz8367]

Great video! Am I missing the torque specs for putting everything back together?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thank you very much! The torque specifications are in the service manual. This video is just a guide to supplement the manual.

[@tylergantz8367]

Gotcha. Second question, do you have a parts list by chance for everything you placed? ​@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist

[@Gprock99]

Excellent job man, your video has perfect depth into a job like this. Really appreciate the help!! Want to ask what kind of degreaser are you using?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thanks Winston I appreciate it. We use Zep Brake Cleaner.

[@LetsMakeItHappen23]

We don't have to take the oil pan out ... right?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Could it be done without removing the oil pan? Yes. It’s only a few extra steps to take the oil pan out. Do them both at the same time and you’ll be leak free for a long time.

[@LetsMakeItHappen23]

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialistthank you for responding , only reason I asking is because I popped the hood and for sure enough the timing cover was leaking but it was all over the alternator and serpentine belt nothing under. But thank you for the tip about the oil pan

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

@LetsMakeItHappen23 you are welcome. The camp solenoid seals and water pump are also common leak sources. The water pump leaks, coolant, but it gets all over the belt and makes it look like oil.

[@firstlast---]

The timing tools aren't a bad idea especially if it's your first time messing with engine timing but they aren't required if you're reusing the timing chain. You can use a paint marker to mark the chain and sprockets. On the exhaust cam I had to use a punch to hold it in place because the valve spring pressure kept making it jump out of time. Intake cam wasn't moving. Also it's a good idea to mark the crank pulley as that can inadvertently be installed 180 degrees out of time which will cause big issues. Good video you covered everything in detail so the diy can fix it right the first time

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thank you!

[@ownSystem]

How many hours did this take would be great to know? Also question if replacing both V Seloids do u have to grease them befote u install them and degrease one what grease would u suggest two will there be oil when u take them out for replacement and three im hoping u can just take them out and install without?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

The whole job takes about 7 hours by the book. The solenoids will leak oil when you remove them, but only a little. You can reinstall them with a light film of oil. Thanks.

[@ownSystem]

What do u think?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

I also almost never replaced the solenoids unless they’re leaking from the inside.

[@ownSystem]

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist have a code p0011 coming up? Seems maybe I need an oil change or this just came up when I drive the car it goes away when stopped it come back on sportically

[@ownSystem]

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist what oil donu suggest will coat them around the edges towards the bottom second) the two selonide wanting to replace both intake and outake doesnt matter where they get replaced?

[@Piam23]

How much torque you put on the timing chain tensioner bolts? Thanks

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

71lb/in on the two tensioner bolts. Thank you.

[@eclecticgentleman]

Phenomenal vide!!! I read all the comments so I wouldn't ask questions you already answered. Iwant to give a thank you for replying... I have a 2013 with 162,000 miles that I'm about to tackle. My 1st question can you post what all bolts need to be replaced with part numbers if you have them? 2nd can you post all the torque settings? 3rd do you recommend putting a new timing chain and alternator while I'm in there? Anything else you would replace while you're in there? ( I'm definitely doing the water pump) 4th and final question what torque wrench are you using? Thanks again I greatly appreciate you sharing your knowledge with us. Stay blessed

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

There are two timing cover bolts that pass through the water pump that must be replaced… 5564507 and 11099551 Three engine mount bolts that must be replaced… 11570514 Crankshaft balancer bolt must be replaced….0912942 The engine in this video had excellent maintenance history and was in excellent condition internally and the timing components showed minimal wear…..if you find a dirt engine inside or signs of wear I’d suggest replacing the timing chain, guides, and tensioner. Possible the cam actuator gears also depending on miles and condition. I’d have to get back to you on the torque specs…..please feel free to comment back with additional questions. Thanks.

[@MisterMorales1003]

Question I noticed the block had sealant right before you installed the oil pan, I might have missed when the sealant was applied. Do I add. Sealant to the block or is that sealant on block front the sealant on oil pan? Your video showed me why I have oil leaking. I didn’t add sealant behind the timing cover gasket and I rubbed oil on the crankshaft seal, all bad. I’m going to have to redo it for sure. Thanks for the video

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

It’s optional. I put a light film on the block side before installing because the oil kept running down and getting on the surface. Thanks.

[@MisterMorales1003]

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialistthat’s good enough for me. Thanks for responding. I’ll be doing this once again, but thanks to your video it will be done correctly this time.

[@fluxcapacitor05]

Question for you, how in the world are you supporting the engine during all of this? Every tutorial I've seen regarding timing cover, head gasket replacement, water pump replacement, etc, have all said to support the engine with a jack while the engine mount is off. Not only are you not, you're also UNDER it. Am I missing something, or is there another way of supporting the engine during all of this that I'm not seeing? I'd like to know because I'll be under it soon, lol.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

I just gently lower the weight down onto the other two mounts which is holding it up. The repair procedure wants you to install an engine hanger fixture… But this doesn’t make any sense because if you were to disassemble the engine any further and remove the cylinder head completely, you are also removing the mounting point for the engine hanger and leaving the block suspended anyway. Thanks.

[@fluxcapacitor05]

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist Yeah that doesn't make much sense. I'm removing the head, timing cover, and oil pan. Like you said I won't have any harness points to use, but I'll try like you said, maybe take the head and timing cover off first to reduce weight, and only remove the two large bolts necessary that connect the cover to the oil pan, then lower it and remove the pan. Wish I had a hoist. Appreciate your professionalism.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

I have tried it and it doesn't seem to make a difference if you remove the head or not. Just lower the weight down gently. If its going to be disassembled for more than a day I will suspend the block with a chain from the engine mount bolt holes in the body.

[@fluxcapacitor05]

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist Good advice. Thanks

[@georgesalatas1055]

Great video, do you have the torque sequence for the timing cover I can’t find anything on it

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Service manual

[@georgesalatas1055]

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist I have Hayes service manual great book only it doesn’t give the sequence which bolts to tighten first, gives the specs but again no sequence, I watch another video and guy said to go in star pattern that didn’t work, this is my second attempt at it I heard someone else say start from the inside and work your way out. Idk I’m at a loss

[@georgesalatas1055]

So I installed the new timing cover gasket and put everything back together filled with oil and coolant and car ran great…except now I have oil in coolant reservoir bottle, took is all back apart and the timing cover gasket seems to have had a great seal, is there something I’m missing or any advice what I should do next, again everything was torque to factory spec have you never had this problem? Anything helps thanks.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

@georgesalatas1055 possible faulty oil cooler

[@georgesalatas1055]

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist that was my next guess, ok I will try that lol car has been a nightmare hopefully not a head gasket i will try replacing oil cooler see what happens thank you I appreciate it

[@jebb125]

did the turbo on my sons cruze , that clamp is easier when you put it on the turbo before you install the turbo , I just snugged it up a bit to hold it in place, if I had the holders i would do his front cover, so I just covered the seam with PRC (acft tank sealant) to slow down the leak been a few years and no leaks..

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Nice. Glad you got it fixed.

[@aciddiver1978]

Is this same engine as in opel ?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Evidently, according to Wikipedia, it is the same, yes. That’s interesting. Thanks.

[@CamoDC4L]

I’ve only had to replace the valve cover because of the gasket failing on my 2015 Cruze. I got the upgraded version of the valve cover that aluminum and a better gasket. After seeing this I think I’m gonna get rid of my Cruze because I have a bad feeling something like this might be sneaking up on me. Currently at 109k miles.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

I am looking for another Cruze because they are cheap cars, get good fuel economy, and fairly cheap and easy to maintain/repair.

[@cruzvcruz5752]

yes pls get rid of it while you have it running

[@eiganramdiymechanic1877]

Graet video .. what is the part# of the tool use for timing tool

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thank you very much! EN-952 Fixing Pin EN-953-A Fixing Tool EN-49977-100 Fixation Sensor Discs

[@JoshuaSvec-fk7en]

Awesome video. For the engine mount, did you replace all the bolts? I was reading you should but don’t have to. Can you give me part numbers and torque specs for all engine mount bolts please.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Per the repair procedure there are a few bolts that must be replaced including the engine mount bolts. 11570514 Engine mount bracket bolt Torque spec 37 lb/ft + 60 to 70 degrees

[@kinghenry5205]

This gasket could cause coolant mixing into the oil right ? I’ve tried pressure test, dye test. Thinking it’s internal but head gasket is fine and no overheating. Tempted to check timing cover gasket but that’s a lot of work for a guess.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Yes. Also the oil cooler is suspect.

[@kinghenry5205]

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist I’ll look into that. Thanks for getting back to me my guy

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

You are welcome.

[@BigDaddy-ih9de]

Do you remember the torque spec for the red and black timing components that guide the chain? Total of 3 bolts at 51:32 time, thank you!

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

15lb/ft on the left side tensioner shoe bolt. 71lb/in on the fixed shoe bolts.

[@BigDaddy-ih9de]

Thank you very much! Enjoy your weekend!!

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

@@BigDaddy-ih9de you are welcome. You have a good weekend as well.

[@iambeerus6744]

Great video man thank you my car is leaking by they oil filter housing have to check it out to see what it is

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thank you for the comment I appreciate it.

[@edbiller8455]

I just dealt with this on a friend's car this week. gasket between the oil filter housing and the oil cooler had failed (it was dripping down on the cat). Additionally, the o-ring on the turbocharger oil feed line was bad. Gasket kit for the oil cooler had everything I needed to replace gaskets/seals/o-rings on the oil cooler, turbo, and exhaust system parts I had to remove to access oil cooler. Good luck with the repair! Here is a link I used when diagnosing/fixing mine. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iqS9lWyDh8-Kosk ALSO: if you pull that turbo, be extremely careful with the oil return line (going into the pan). the plastic gets brittle with age and I broke mine. Clamp holding turbo to cat also was rusted through.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

I always order a new oil return pipe and oil feed pipe when I remove one of these turbos. The feed pipe is often clogged with sludge, and the return pipe often breaks.

[@edbiller8455]

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist in fairness, I was warned that, but hope springs eternal and I thought, "$40! pffft I'll just be careful." That's what I get for not listening to more experienced wrenchers

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Been there lol

[@TagGeorge]

at 48:37 you had some sort of tool/key for your sealant tube squeeze/twist. Tat looks very handy. Do you have a part/tool number?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

That tool came with the AC Delco sealant. I believe they are also available at auto parts stores and hardware stores. Thanks.

[@2PacMejia]

Hello, how did you remove the grease before the repair, greetings

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

I used brake parts cleaner to wash down the engine. Thanks.

[@daniel326935]

What happens if I rotated the crankshaft two more turns without the chain on ? I’m still able to fix timing on this ?😅

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Won’t hurt anything unless the valves touch the pistons.

[@daniel326935]

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist Thank you I’ll try ,wish me luck 😔

[@7979phantom]

good work ! just asking if it possible to have another leaking from this timing cover after we replace the oil cooler because we saw oil in the water expansion tank. so the question is how to know is this is the leaking pleace or it's from the valves cover gasket . Thank you

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

The oil cooler is really the only place that could come from unless it’s a cracked engine block. You can remove the coolant hoses from the cooler and run the engine for a short time to see if oil comes from the coolant ports of the cooler.

[@rogermillard3677]

Did mine at 200k. Now I have 242k. Running great.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Mine had almost 300,000 miles by the time somebody rear ended it. Totaled.

[@zzzbunk]

When you removed the engine mount, how did you support the engine while raised to remove oil pan or exhaust parts? What sealant?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

I used a block of wood on the oil pan when taking the weight off the engine mount and then gently lowered the weight down on to the other two mounts. AC Delco gray engine RTV. Thanks.

[@lifeshare9074]

Im doing this job today, but one question do I really have to remove the oil pan to get that front cover off?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

If you’re removing the front cover it would be very risky to not also remove and re-seal the oil pan. Thank you for commenting.

[@CruisinComPTon]

​@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialistwhat if my oil pan was very recently (about 1 week ago) replaced because of stripped oil drain plug threads?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

It should be removed again and re-sealed or it will likely leak. Thanks.

[@lifeshare9074]

I did the labor without removing the oil pan, just when I reinstalled the cover I put some extra silicone in the corners where it meets with the oil pan and you should have any problem 👌🏻

[@CruisinComPTon]

​@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialistlol damn I figured but was hoping for a different answer

[@ramirosalinas4740]

Is the engine being held just by the trans mount while you have it in the air?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Yes there are three other mounts holding it you just have to lower it gently. Thanks.

[@andrewvisiko5250]

Great video. I have a 2015 Chevrolet Cruze 1LT manual Transmission that has the same leak. I have owned the car basically since new. Always been extremely good about maintenance, and only using OEM parts. This engine is not as bad as people make it out to be. It does not take well to lack of maintenance. I will need to do this procedure here in the near future. This information is very good, and the community appreciates your willingness to share your expert opinion with us. I do have a question regarding the timing chain, guides, and tension-er. I have been made aware through various sources that the timing chain guide, and tension-er are known to fail with the 1.4L engine causing the engine to jump timing. Would you recommend the timing chain guides, and tension-er be replaced when performing this service to re seal the timing chain cover, and oil pan? What about replacement of the timing chain as well, as i have herd there known to stretch? If i opted to change the guides, tension-er, and timing chain as a preventive maintenance while performing this service, would I be required to change the timing gears as well do to the wear pattern from the original chain? Your insights, and thoughts on this are greatly appreciated. Thanks, Andrew

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

If you take it apart and find wear on the plastic timing chain tensioner shoes then yes definitely replace everything. The plastic also gets brittle with age and heat cycling and can crumble and fall apart, the upper shoe is common for falling apart. Whether you re-use the gears or not depends how badly they are worn, but if you do find wear in one component there is almost certain to be wear in the others also so its best to replace everything if you have the money especially if the engine has high miles. I re-used everything in this engine because it was in excellent condition with very little wear and it was still running great over a year later when the car got totaled, also had no oil leaks. Thanks. Feel free to ask additional questions if needed.

[@briansmith2635]

Got one question the harmonic balancer u didnt show the right way to put it back on

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

There is a spanner tool that is used along with the crankshaft locking pin to torque the front crankshaft bolt using a two handed counter holding motion. The balancer gets installed dry with no lubrication on the front seal. Thank you.

[@JackJackson-bw6xh]

Hi, thanks for this grate video. How much it will cost this job?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Approximately $700-$1500 depending on what needs to be replaced. Thank you for commenting.

[@BlackouTTProductions]

how much is the customer charged for a job like this? I am definitely not doing this at my house with jacks and jack stands lol.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

$700-$1500 depending what needs to be replaced.

[@blakeclayton1834]

Any chance you wanna show us how you supported the engine when the noun was removed and oil pan as removed? Did you use an over head engine support bar?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

I gently lower the weight on to the other two engine engine mounts. The support fixture when you install it per the service information instructions it gets in the way of the job… And then, if you were to further disassemble and remove the cylinder head, it leaves you with nothing to support the engine block anyway. I’ve done many this way with no ill effects. Thank you.

[@ivandelirioux]

20:17 Any tips on getting that pulley off if I don't have any powered tools? I'm doing this job in my garage, and that pulley is the last thing I need to remove to get to the timing chain cover😅

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

You will need to hold the crankshaft from turning so the bolt can be loosened. If it’s a manual transmission you can put it in gear to hold the shaft from turning. Thanks.

[@Mr_Zapzy]

When you remove the oil pan is there nothing holding the engine? You mentioned have a jack down there, did you move the jack out?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

There are three other mounts holding it up. Just lower it down gently. Thanks.

[@Iseekoutthetruth]

Where do You Get That Crankshaft Shaft Tool? What Is It Called?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

EN-955 Crankshaft Fixing Pin You can find the timing tool kit online… Amazon… As well as several other places online such as freedom racing etc. Thank you.

[@papichulo9705]

did you use thread locker in the water pump bolts ?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Nope.

[@joekidwell4773]

I'm about to do this in my garage. How did you hold the engine up without the mount and oil pan off?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

I gently lowered it and let it hang from the other mounts. Thanks.

[@gabrock55]

After you had jacked up the engine to access the bolts and then needed to take off the oil pan where did you have the floor jack set? Or did you just replace the motor mount temporarily while working on the underside of the engine?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

I let it hang from the other two mounts. You can reinstall the mount loosely if needed.

[@raducumucu1]

Hello. How did you support the engine after removing engine mount? I see that you did not jack the angine from below on the oil pan.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

I gently put the jack on the oil pan with a wooden block or a rubber block, and then gently lowered the weight down on the other two engine mounts after removing the front mount bolts. Thanks.

[@BigDaddy-ih9de]

You mentioned that the t 65 torx plug that you removed for the fixing pen had sealant on it, did you add sealant onto it when putting it back on?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Yes I did add a drop or two of sealant as a secondary measure. Be sure to clean the old sealant out of the threads too. Thanks for commenting.

[@BigDaddy-ih9de]

Awesome will do thank you!

[@matthewlobberecht6187]

Did you have an engine support on top to hold the engine up while you did that?.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

I just gently lower the weight down onto the other two mounts which is holding it up. The repair procedure wants you to install an engine hanger fixture… But this doesn’t make any sense because if you were to disassemble the engine any further and remove the cylinder head completely, you are also removing the mounting point for the engine hanger and leaving the block suspended anyway. Thanks.

[@williamgillespie3127]

Hi I have a 2012 Chevy Cruze 1.8 manual transmission non turbo , I watched your video and I think I have the same issue issues I want to know what timing tool kit I need to buy for my car i am not a mechanic and would really appreciate you telling me what timing tool kit I need for my car or if I could get the same one as you , just don’t want to waist money on something that might not work on my car . Please let me know I appreciate it . And definitely subscribing now thank for a great informative video 🙏👍

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thanks for watching! This video covers a 1.4L engine. I’m not sure that any special tools are needed on the 1.8L… I don’t see very many of those.

[@BJMTM1]

How did you hold the motor up with the timing cover off and the oil pan off gonna be doing this job at home so don’t have a engine hoist

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

I supported it with a jack and then lowered it gently on to the other two engine mounts before removing everything.

[@RodzChris]

Nice video and details, was wondering did you support the engine weight by putting a floor jack on the trans case right

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thank you for commenting. I used a block of wood and a floor jack on the engine oil pan and then gently lower the weight onto the other two engine mounts when I remove the front mount and it works well.

[@adamcooperonline]

I've had to change the head gasket on my 2013 and now I have a huge oil leak about a year later. When you held the motor with a floor jack to remove the motor mount, what did you do when you removed the oil pan?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

I let it hang from the other two mounts. Thanks.

[@teamlegacy4417]

So wait how were you able to keep the engine up after removing the oil pan I’m confused

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

I just lowered it down slowly onto the other two mounts.

[@gregorypowell9005]

can you help me put my 1,4 liter turbo engine out of a 2016 Buick encore back together? my camshaft tool is not lining up for some reason

[@daltonfox5524]

How long did the job take, asking for myself

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

The job normally takes me about 6 to 7 hours working at a comfortable pace and I’ve done several of them so I just automatically know what to do. This particular vehicle I got it all done in one day… Took extra time to set up camera angles, and all that. I started the repair in the morning, and drove it home that night. It was a long day, but that was my ride home. Then we drove the car for another almost two years or so… No leaks. Car got rear ended and “totaled” by insurance. Thanks.

[@817mario]

Great Video Man! Perfect Lighting! I’m gonna do this tomorrow to my 2012 Cruze 1.4 I just have one question it’s been having this code since I bought it a year ago been running like that since it’s p0016 now that I will have the car opened could it be something with the timing chain ? I ready replaced the cam sensors and still showed same code. Thanks

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Yes. If the engine is dirty inside when you take the valve cover off you may want to abort the job. Otherwise if you think the engine is worth fixing go ahead and replace the timing chain and everything including the cam gears. Thanks.

[@MartinRodriguez-b8r]

Timing Chain Guide torque please and also the timing chain cover torque and thank you for the video is very good very professional

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

I don't have the specs handy at the moment. Some of the auto parts websites list the torque specs and the procedure. Thanks.

[@MartinRodriguez-b8r]

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist Thank you

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

@user-ph2uo8mh3m you are welcome.

[@Ready2Rise]

I dont think i have all the tools. I have the time as i walk to work. But, how much does this usually cost to do especially as thoroughly as you've done it?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

If you are doing it yourself, probably $500 or less. Thanks.

[@marbledad]

Do you drain all coolant before starting this, or just top off when complete?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

All of the coolant gets drained out for this job. You can drain the coolant beforehand… I did it my own way by letting the coolant drain out when I unbolt the water pump. Thanks.

[@marbledad]

what supports the engine during the removal of oil pan?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Gently lower the weight down on to the other two mounts before removing the front mount. Thanks for commenting.

[@TagGeorge]

you took the upper motor mount off then what was holding the motor up while you removed the oil pan?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Lower the weight gently down on to the other two mounts. Thanks.

[@TagGeorge]

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist Thanks for quick reply.

[@joshuaolsen8844]

So you RTV'd both the oil pan and the crankcase face for the oil pan re-installation? Is that normal? Also, what RTV do you recommend for that job? This video was phenomenal, I liked how much you prepped the surfaces over and over.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thank you very much! Yes I applied a thin film of RTV to the block surface, it’s not part of the official procedure, but it helps keep any oil from getting on your prepped surface and covers you if your RTV bead wasn’t perfect. There is a fine line when using RTV, because you don’t want to use an excessive amount. AC Delco gray RTV from the dealer seems to work well. I have had great success with Permatex Ultra Black and Permatex The Right Stuff also. Thanks for the comment!

[@joshuaolsen8844]

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist That was a fast reply for a video from 5 months ago ;)

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

@@joshuaolsen8844 yep! All comments come directly to me and I do my best to respond to all of them!

[@StevenAwsomeYoda]

There is no pre formed gaskets for pan and time covers? Thanks

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

@StevenAwsomeYoda not that I know of. The bolt holes for the transmission wouldn’t line up if you added a gasket though.

[@josephcebreiros140]

Where do I get the kit to lock the timing in place

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

I would get one from Amazon or FreedomRacing. Thanks.

[@jeepreworked6388]

You have hitchhiker thumbs..jealous. Has to make things easier. Now help me why my 1.4 has passed coolant measures at the shop but still I see it going to 230 and when hitting the throttle back down in idle to 200.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Hitchhiker thumbs… interesting lol. These engines run at 220F-230F normally. The vehicle has an electric assisted thermostat and the ECM actually has a “desired coolant temperature” value that it will try it maintain. At first I was concerned because most engines are overheating at 230F, but I have worked on and driven so many by now that I consider it normal because I have seen the data… that’s exactly what the computer wants. Thanks.

[@BigDaddy-ih9de]

I’m a bit confused as to where you safely secured the engine from the bottom when you took off the oil pan. Where did you find the secure points to hold the engine? And one last question is there anything else you disconnected from between the engine and the transmission before hoisting it up for the job? Thank you for your help!

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

You can gently rest the weight down on to the other two engine mounts after removing the front mount bolts. I used a block of wood and a floor jack on the bottom of the oil pan for raising and lowering. Didn’t have to really disconnect very much, just don’t jack the engine up too high and you’ll be fine. Thanks again.

[@kennywicks8719]

This was my question as well, glad there was a response. I'm about to do this job in my driveway lol

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

@kennywicks8719 feel free to ask questions if needed.

[@kennywicks8719]

This video is really well done, 2 years ago I replaced the head after an overheat. So I'm more familiar with the engine than I'd like to be ahah. But thank you, I will keep that in mind!

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

@@kennywicks8719 thank you very much and thank you for watching.

[@lordfungus4073]

What did you use to spray down the oil pan and timing cover after you took them off and peeled the gaskets?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

I used brake parts cleaner to degrease and clean parts. I used Motorcraft silicone gasket remover to help soften the old sealant. It helps, but is optional. Thank you.

[@mr.hustlaelsuperior8293]

I have a question. I just had mi timing chain valve cover change it was leaking oil but they put the gasket new back no leak but they didn't put a new timing chain was tha nessesary to or no

[@mr.hustlaelsuperior8293]

On my 2011 chevy cruze so I wanna know if they change the gasket new do they have to change the timing chain

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

I didn’t need to change the chain on this engine. It’s a case by case basis, but if you have high miles you should expect to need a new chain at some point. They should have inspected it all while it was apart.

[@Vno86]

What are the torque specs for the inside screws of the timing cover ?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

71 lb/in for the small bolts and 26 lb/ft for the larger bolts. Thanks.

[@BenDover-wu6lu]

I just got to the ac compressor on my 2016 cruze limited. The 3rd bolt that you said was hard to get to, I started to take it off and it let out pressurized air. Is that normal? I'm trying to figure out if I should keep going lol thank you

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Sometimes that will happen, it always has a distinct burnt dog poo smell too lol. Unless a mass amount of oil runs out the hole or something it’s probably not anything to worry about. Thanks.

[@BenDover-wu6lu]

@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist thank you so much! I really appreciate it and I appreciate this video so much. You are saving me 1600 bucks!

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

@BenDover-wu6lu that’s awesome. That’s where I came from, we were always broke and couldn’t send our stuff to the shop. So I learnt. Feel free to ask further questions if needed.

[@Mark_Harmon35]

Did u remove the exhaust to get the oil pan removed?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Yes. Thanks for commenting.

[@mleindek]

I have a Cruze with the same exact problem. Would love to take it to you. What state are you in?

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

I appreciate that. I am not accepting work from KZbin at this time. Thanks for commenting.

[@inmotion81]

You do a really good job ac Delco stuff nice id have you work on mine if you are near nor California

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thank you!

[@steveashworth6707]

Great job!. Very helpful!.

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

Thank you very much!

[@carlosasher-leon4879]

Good day.. Where can I get fixing pin and camshaft tools to buy... Thanks

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

They are available online from multiple sources. Kent-Moore makes the factory tools. There are aftermarket versions on Amazon that should work fine. Thanks.

[@carlosasher-leon4879]

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist Thank you... I am going to try this repair following your instructions.... Will let you know how it goes..

[@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist]

@@carlosasher-leon4879 Sounds good. Feel free to ask any questions via comment.