Chevy Volt Drive Axle Nut Replacement

For Chevrolet Volts Gen 1 (2011-2015) you may experience a clicking sound on acceleration and deceleration. A faulty drive axle nut and washer is often times the culprit. There is a new design, and this video shows how to remove and replace the old parts with the new ones. Special thanks to 2CarPros and their video that inspired me to do this myself. • How to Replace CV Axle...
Be sure and give them a like and subscribe. This video differs in that I'm not changing my CV axle, but instead focusing on the drive axle nut only, and also giving tips on how to jack the car and use jackstands as the illustrations in the manual are poor.
Drive Axle Nut used: 1611687
Drive Axle Washer used: 1547142

[@khortsch]

Just take off the rotor and brake assembly (2 bolts). So much easier. Plus if you remove the lower control arm, there is always a chance of breaking the rubber boot.

[@jarrodmullins3186]

Thank you! Very helpful video. I was able to fix the issue myself after the dealership "forgot" to fix it. Removing the ball joint was a son of a biscuit, but everything else was very simple. Thanks again!

[@1blackbug]

Thank you for taking the time to do this.

[@GirlsNDragons]

We just removed the 2 strut bolts and pulled back the knuckle. Got it done in 10 minutes. This is a lot of work. Ours was a 2014 volt

[@a70duster]

I did the same on a 2013. The lower ball joint shaft would not come out of the knuckle.

[@PhuPhillipTrinh]

Wow I should make a video for this!!

[@SGgolfers69]

Thank you for the very detailed video.

[@Maidoumurnot]

Great video, you are very detailed and I appreciate it and your video editing makes everything very clear and concise so there is not a lot of UH, UH, UH. Thank you for such a great video. It has helped me a lot.. ❤

[@LibertyPimp]

Thank you for this. It would be helpful if you posted all the torque specs used in the description. I guess it is a little more involved than I thought. The dealer is wanting $350 to do both sides, excluding parts. Charging 2 hours of labor @ $155 plus extra for their variable labor rate matrix. I would have done it, but the extra $40 for a variable pricing matrix threw me for a loop. I could do it myself in my buddy's shop, but he is too busy these days. Armed with this information I will write out the important parts of the procedure and get another estimate from a local shop. PS. The HOA where I live does not allow me to work on my own car. Plus I dislike wrenching.

[@myriadcorp]

What was the torque for the ball joint nut?

[@minghiy]

Thank you for the detailed video and explanation. My 2012 volt front driver wheel only clicks while making a turn at an incline otherwise it's super quiet and drives smooth. Should I try replacing these two first or do you think the drive axle needs to be replaced as well.

[@unclefester6501]

Drive axle clicks/crunches when you turn and punch it. The washer only clicks once when you brake or accelerate. I have 350k miles on two 1st gen Volts.

[@minghiy]

@@unclefester6501 so it's the drive axle then. Thanks for the info!

[@anticat900]

Nice video, about to use it to do my Ampera with the same issue, do you know how long these parts are meant to last?

[@jthet2001]

I’m not really sure how long they’re intended to last. But they definitely should last longer than they have been. I would think after a good amount of miles like 150,000 miles / 250000 km you would think of replacing the entire CV axle assembly. At that time the nuts would be replaced

[@andreoking84]

Appreciate the video tutorial. I may have to attempt replacing the wheel bearing on my ‘12; as the wants $270 per wheel. Was your car making a humming noise? What size sockets did you use? And where can I find the socket for the axel nut(32mm & 36MM)? Thanks so much.

[@jthet2001]

No humming noise, just the clicking noise for me I ended up just getting a 32mm and a 36mm impact socket on Amazon. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CIWSVTE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002INUR14/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@LibertyPimp]

The humming is the noise from a bad bearing.

[@crsp76691]

i took it out and left it out! I think i saw a chevy bulletin that they are not putting that washer back in.

[@nawewan]

my dealer said that PN 11611687 was replaced by PN 13217120...is that correct? I thought it was the other way around.

[@kracksmith4ejm1]

why is the new design washer necessary

[@allthetech]

Lazy guy here.. Initially I thought the nut was just loose. I tightened and the clicking went away for a few months. The nut backs out ever so slightly and the clicking returns. In theory, could you just torque it down to 150'lbs (factory spec) and use a thread locker?

[@jthet2001]

What you did is what most Chevy dealers do LOL. I had taken mine in for a warranty fix a year earlier and all they did was torque down the nut. I could tell they did not put the updated part on because they didn’t use the 36mm nut. It was still the 32 mm on the side they “fixed“

[@allthetech]

@@jthet2001 So long as the bolt stays put with thread locker, it should bandaid the problem, right? I know it’s not the right way, but I really don’t feel like tearing the entire axle apart this week.

[@jthet2001]

I wouldn’t recommend thread locker on a part like that. That is a special torque to yield nut.

[@LibertyPimp]

I can't find the lower control arm bolt torque specs anywhere. Any ideas?

[@ChrisHunter916]

I noticed he skipped over that as well. He knew the spec, but forgot to say it in the vid! Any idea @jthet2001 ?

[@ChrisHunter916]

Lower control arm ball joint nut (*) First pass: 37 lb ft Second pass: loosen 120 degrees Third pass: 37 lb ft Fourth pass: plus 35 degrees *use only new bolt

[@andyk9883]

So it definitely solved the problem? I've seen another video which does not require you to take the ball joint off?

[@jthet2001]

It definitely solved my problem. RE: Ball joint, I followed the advice of the 2carpros channel and it worked for me. Perhaps there's another way but you definitely want to change the washer behind your hub, not just the nut.

[@bardosfamily8782]

​@jthet2001 Hey do you happen to know the GM PN for the 36mm upgraded bolt I can't seem to find that anywhere and I just bought 2 from dealer but they are 32mm. Thanks

[@MrFearless84]

Clicking is not because of this cracked washer. The only function this washer has is to keep dirt away from the wheel speed sensor. Clicking is because of movement between the CV joint (part that you screw the nut on) and the wheel bearing. Sometimes just retorquing the nut will silence the clicking. Sometimes you have to replace either the CV-joint or the whole driveshaft to fix this.

[@PhuPhillipTrinh]

So if I don’t fix this clicking problem (only when slowing down to 8km/hr) what’s the worse that can happen ?

[@jthet2001]

Not actually sure. But I know if I keep hearing popping from my front end, it will be disconcerting because I won’t know when it’s something serious.