Childhood Dream - HUGE TRANSFORMERS!

These are some of the coolest 3D Printable files and they print Support Free! Scaling up ToyMakr3D Optimus Prime & Megatron by 300% scale!
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Files from todays video
@toymakr3D Optimus Prime - FREE! www.toymakr3d.com/product/9-g...
www.toymakr3d.com/
/ toymakr3d
A huge thank you to Dr Smoov for the awesome voice overs! / drsmoov
Checkout One_Oak_Customs & their awesome 3D Printed Action Figure posts! / c2tgyk5s1lz
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Thanks for watching!
#3DPrinting #Transformers #optimusprime

[@UncleJessy]

You have to checkout ToyMakr3Ds amazing mech files! www.toymakr3d.com/ And a HUGE Thank You to the Legendary Dr Smoov for the Cybertronian Voiceovers kzbin.info

[@johnathangregoire4459]

You can use low temp hot glue in the joints to stiffen them up significantly. I've used it for almost all oof the Toymakr models so far and the joints will easily hold their own weight after. Just put some glue in on the joints, stick them together and move the joint repeatedly until the hot glue cools and you'll be all set.

[@UncleJessy]

@@johnathangregoire4459 Oh wow! Okay I'm going to be testing that out for sure! Thanks for that tip!

[@osakanone]

Superglue also works. My honest advice is learn to incorporate and adjust designs to use M3 cap-head screws and dissociate the joints. It basically means re-engineering sadly, but when you get to this size its basically what you have to do.

[@UncannyGirl]

Absolutely fabulous share. We JUST got the Neptune 4 Max as our first 3D printer... I was about to post on this video you forgot to scale the joints in order to maintain the friction ratio... However I noticed you posted a new video about fixing the joints.

[@Toymakr3D]

Sorry about the ball joint, ball joints are very difficult to avoid the curse of PLA material because they will always become loose after a while.Haha 😂

[@mikesvirtualhikeandtours1721]

Amazing prints!

[@Telzrob]

Awesome prints! PTFE tape is also great for stiffening joints.

[@UncleJessy]

No worries at all! I figured It would happen as soon as I scaled it up or with PLA but on a way to find how to stiffen those up!

[@obcesar]

@@UncleJessy Coat the joints in a rubber spray paint. Like the type they sell at a auto stores for truck beds. It might provide the needed grip.

[@bubbafett2700]

I don’t know how difficult this would be, but I think ratchet joints could help. You know because they click into place.

[@NaiveSteve]

Toymaker 3d is so underrated. His models are so incredible, and I have been wanting him to get more attention. This month, I've seen 2 creators showcase his models on a gigantic scale, and it is so awesome to see.

[@chipwallaceart]

I have printed just about all of Toymaker3Ds Transformer figures. The reason the ball joints are loose is because it was scaled up 300%. The tolerance changes when you enlarge prints like this since the gap between the ball and socket gets larger. You have to enlarge the ball slightly before printing so you still have proper tolerances. You can just add a sphere modifier right in the slicer to fix the issue. Also, PETG works WAY better for ball and socket joints. Keep in my changing materials still requires the adjustment for tolerances and previously mentioned.

[@reactorcore6830]

my technique is to glue a layer of foam into the joint. it allows a comfortable tension , and you can add more or less depending if you need different tension

[@YouGoneMad]

Not sure how much it would help you but I used to create custom interior pieces and sometimes when creating dash framing for head units we would use "Dura-Mix 40/40" in order to fill and sometimes to entirely recreate a stock plastic interior piece with custom shapes applied. Perhaps you could put a small layer of this stuff on the joints and then let it dry, then maybe sand down a little to your level of acceptance. It is a dual-mix black epoxy you can buy from any Auto body shop store, maybe even check auto-zone or something like that and they may be able to get it for you. again the stuff is called "Dura-Mix 40/40" Epoxy.

[@UncleJessy]

Awesome! Never heard of that but will look into it

[@YouGoneMad]

@@UncleJessy Just in case you wanted to know. the 4040 is black in color, but if you want the same thing in opaque then get the 4045. Now 4040 and 4045 sets in 1 minute and after 15 minutes can be sanded down easily. If you need something that has the same properties but is slower to cue to give you more time to work with then get the Duramix 4058 as it literally takes twice the setup time (2 minutes to set, and 30mins to sand). Know that all of these will meld to the already created surfaces and become one with them. So you will literally be adding plastic to your printed piece that will then need to be sanded to you requirements. Hope this further info helps you to decide which one is right for you or in case you can't find one or the other. Please post a video of you using what I am going to guess is exactly what you needed? Please and Thank You! Thank you for the awesome content!

[@jacobrjager]

The joints need ratchets at that size, friction will fail even if you "fix" it they will loosen up but ratchets (even soft ratchets) will prevent failures where you don't want them.

[@MarcYoungGLHTurbo]

I used the Fuzzy Skin modifier on the ball portion of the joints and that helped out a little bit to create some friction in the joints.

[@donk5982]

Use some UV cure resin to thicken the joints

[@jamesanderson2381]

If they joints were modelled with a 0.2mm - 0.4mm gap at 100% you will have a 0.6mm-1.2mm gap at 300%. You could go into some software and offset the ball (or socket) back to a more reasonable gap to give some friction. Another easier option would be to use the horizontal offset feature in your slicer to grow the part (or just the ball / socket) by 0.4-0.8mm to close the gap back up. This would not be a perfect offset all round the joint but might add some friction to help pose the figures.

[@JRT3D]

I've made TPU socks for upscaled joints before - print with 1-2 wall layers just enough to give it some grip. Should hold flex really good.

[@UncleJessy]

Wait say what? So a tpu cover for the joints?

[@JRT3D]

Yes - Use ball joint - then duplicate it but slightly larger. Making the initial joint a subtracted hollow. Should leave you with something just big enough to slide onto the original joint giving 1-2 walls of tpu for resistance. More or less making a hollow ball in 75% height with a hole in it to allow the slip-on sock.@@UncleJessy

[@TheP64ever]

I printed a bumblebee a while ago and layered the joints with uv resin and cured it with a uv light until it was tight enough. I was even able to get a satisfying "click" by going thicker or thinner with my uv layers.

[@idkwhattohaveasausername5828]

ToyMakr3d is one of the best in the hobby. Been printing tons of his models ( mostly the transformers ) ones. They’re incredible.

[@poodlescone9700]

Being able to resize and print any 3d print file is the fun part of 3d printing.

[@dandurocher993]

I printed the Devastator from them. It's designed with screws in each joint to be able to hold a pose. An incredibly fun print.

[@UncleJessy]

Okay now thats friggin cool

[@SengirIndustries]

I have Devastator as well and part way through printing Superion

[@RetroRanter]

Holy crap thats DrSmoov!!! That hit me in the early days of KZbin nostalgia hard. 😂 These are crazy good and the fact so many of the prints are free!? So glad their work was showcased, time to annoy the wife by having Giant G1 characters all over the bedroom 😂

[@jessopjessopjessop860]

I've done a few Toymakr prints - guys a genious!🤩

[@UncleJessy]

They are so cool and I now want to print all of them

[@TheDiskdaddy]

Yep, easily my favourite prints

[@obcesar]

This is EPIC and so cool. I've been resin printing for a long time, started out in FDM but I'm going to get one again. The quality and speed has drastically improved.

[@OriginalSharpe]

Watched that video and immediately purchased some color PLA to get things going. Pretty excited to do this project!!

[@ravendarkcloud]

Loved that ending. To improve the hold of the joints try coating in resin.

[@JimmieZ89]

You've got my older child self telling my inner child "heck yeah we are going to buy and print those!" Roll out!

[@TheGreatArloMan]

Wow! DRSmoov?! Throwback frfr

[@OlavAlexanderMjelde]

btw an idea for the joints: if you remove some of the part in the join (with modelling), you could use some sort of collapsible foam with glue. In that way it would create resistance in joints and I think maybe it wouldnt wear off very quickly. Or another suggestion: maybe inset some holes in 3d model and glue strong magnets so the magnets make it being able to keep poses?

[@nocturnalpotato]

The last 45 seconds of the video is must-see-TV! "What is this guys obsession with Magneto?"

[@getbent57]

That's awesome. All so the voice overs at the end was funny.

[@AndrewSink]

They’re huge! I cracked up at the size of the Megatron throne 😂😂😂

[@joeszymanski3540]

4:10... OP been drinking that high test 😂

[@hed420]

Try regular silicone that you get at hardware stores. Use Naphtha to thin it down and brush it on the ball joints.

[@blunghole]

To tighten the joints, use Pledge Floor Polish. Apply it with a paintbrush, you don't even need to remove the ball from the socket. Flows in clear, tightens up after a few hours, and can be removed easily unlike super glue or nail polish.

[@mountaincruiser817]

Crazy how there is now a whole new plastic industry. Just what we need!

[@heroicdairy]

Toymaker is an absolute legend

[@Slycandyman]

This is cool I’m glad someone is showing off sites that I didn’t know existed

[@MannEMar]

Pledge floor polish does a better job at tightening figure joints if you're considering an alternative to nail polish 🤔

[@UncleJessy]

Wait what?! Okay I'm going to test that out

[@MannEMar]

@@UncleJessy Do It!! And let us know how it turns out on your next oversized jointed figure build 🙏🏼

[@Purely_Satisfying]

Oh man, I love them, I think I am going to give them a try 👍

[@rodristrongest]

I like to use 5 minutes epoxy over the ball joints before to connect the pieces and it works well

[@gillesmaranda5495]

Nicely done! Very funny ending in your video.

[@TFanPage101]

Those look incredible

[@amusedjester]

I wonder if dipping the ball joints in Plastidip to get a coat of rubber would certainly provide tightness and friction on the joints.

[@MrFree2BeMe1]

Nice! I Printed Megatron in Light Grey to give him that cartoon accurate color, i just used glue on the joints and i moved the parts around back and forth until the glue got harder and the joints got tight

[@UncleJessy]

Yeah I saw someone else mention using hot glue and doing the same. I'm going to give that a try!

[@sackofham]

Maybe think about using heat shrink on the ball joints? It is used by 1/12th scale figure customizers. You'd obviously have to get a larger gauge heat shrink for these guys.

[@mishelle6315]

The little skit at the end was hilarious

[@musicvideoenhancer]

Impressed of how smooth your prints looks on camera, it doesn't appear to have layer lines, which I think it's impossible to achieve, as far as I know

[@UncleJessy]

They turned out great. The layer lines are still there though. but printed real smooth

[@jthenriksen3482]

Love when these videos where you post about these sites I wouldn't otherwise find. I hope you continue to post this series.

[@AaronFlaming]

YAS! I love Toymakr3d. Transformers all the things!

[@mirkobasciu5734]

Post scriptum: ToyMakr3d Is a Genius!!!!! 😀

[@andrewlongfellow8745]

You do gods work by showcasing these artists.

[@UncleJessy]

So many amazing creators out there!

[@hed420]

Maybe you can spray some plastidip on the ball joints ? Idk how long it'll last but if they still sell liquid electrical tape that should last longer .

[@canoradam]

Coming from action figure world, Pine-Sol also works for firming up loose joints.

[@mrmartin6700]

Im gone try one of his prints. Just got my printer and doing this first. Im excited about these builds

[@anthonylong5870]

Jesse , Use rubber cement on the joints, just a lite coat and let it dry, then reassemble. Works much better

[@graefx]

MP-01 being a 20 year old toy took out both my knees and my back.

[@RyoHazuki224]

Idea to tighten up the joints: strip of electrical tape. Maybe a little heat gun to "form" it around the ball? Something like that.

[@rowndo]

Mix super fine sand with the nail polish, it should do the job. Great video sir

[@Blueboy57]

You could try using hot glue on the socket part of the joints. It's commonly used in the ball jointed doll hobby and it works pretty well. Often hear it called hot glue sueding in reference to when actual suede was used in joints.

[@marivera77]

Maybe you can dip them in resin and cure to thicken those ball joint pieces. Same concept as mail polish but you have tons of resin.

[@Alphaseen]

For Gundam/Gunpla models a company called Gunprimer makes JOINT GUARD it's sticky sheet that is designed to go over ball joints to remove gap in them. I don't think they would scale up as well but something like it should work.

[@3E6B787B782F2D6E3147]

saw you talking about the joints being loose and thought I'd chime in with a technique we use in the doll community that is to smear a thin layer of hot glue in the cup and on the ball of the joint and letting that dry, once it's dried the glue is super grippy and you should find your joints pose really well. I've used the technique on heavy resin dolls with a lot of success, so you should get good results since a PLA print should be way lighter than heavy resin doll arms and hands

[@3E6B787B782F2D6E3147]

another advantage of hot glue is it doesn't bond tightly to the surface so if you ever need to remove it it scrapes off quite easily. YMMV with glue on PLA though, I've never tried it, I can only speak to the glue on resin

[@XcryohazardX]

I cut some rubber gloves and glue them to the joints, they give some good grip to models

[@ProfSir1]

My guy is out here living my dream.

[@mirkobasciu5734]

try to Spread liquid rubber (i use bostik) with a brush into joint holes. Let you the rubber harden a bit (1 day) and then reinsert the joints. You will see that they will provide the right resistance to movements, holding various positions in which you place the model...I did it for my little Bumble bee (ToyMakr 3d) and it worked perfectly.

[@KARToyEnthusiast]

Might try coating the joints in a thick layer of plastadip. That could solve the problem, not a 100% sure though

[@chaotic_goodness]

Try a couple coats of Plastic Dip in those articulation joints.

[@charlesfowler3464]

I haven't seen transzor Z in forever

[@Trevor_Fuss]

Great Print, I would suggest painting on a good coat of 3D Print Resin and curing it with UV on both sides of the joint

[@UncleJessy]

Thanks! I will give that a shot!

[@korenm9377]

Try “Chinese knurling” the ball joints. Use a soldering iron and melt little diverts which should enlarge the surface area. Easy fix for mechanics use a centre punch to enlarge bearing journals etc.

[@Lukevanhalen]

Was pointed here by Karsten, will stay for the content!

[@baljazz]

He makes the balljoints separate files. Wish all modelers did this. So my suggestion is throw it in tinkercad and make the ball slightly bigger which will fix the issue your having.

[@ShawnHicks-os6jp]

I did a few of these last year at 425 percent, or nearly 3 foot tall. they certainly get attention. I did starscream, soundwave and megatron.

[@The-last-1]

Try coating the joints with a thin pair of silicone to increase friction

[@inkvisuals2037]

Do you have a video showing how to get smoother prints? Settings and all? I’m having trouble with the rounded ends with layering.

[@user-iz3zy4ot6e]

Use layer of tape around the joint to make it a little bigger

[@beamusdownscotty9231]

I've always put some tin foil into the joint to make them stiff

[@shadowmosesmusic]

the unfortunate thing of scaling up - is so does the tolerance - if you can make the joints to the hole roughly a 1/32" in difference it should snap in and hold better.

[@SnotlipsTM]

How about dipping the ball joints in some latex paint, there's some at Home Depot that is used for sealing drywall for showers, it might provide enough friction?

[@cinderpsycho1985]

maybe change up some of the hinge joints to ratchet joints with springs its more advanced but its way stronger and often used in larger transformers toys

[@retrogamingrewind1980]

DUDE! @UncleJessy I 3D printed Superion from them and it's about 3' tall. It's amazing

[@JohnSmith-rg5nz]

Try floor polish, it's an old collector's trick.

[@primejee]

I recommend the ratchet click part for huge toy design as my toy. 😂

[@crablipsmomma]

You may be able to apply some Wire Harness Cloth Electrical Tape to the joints. Possibility in a (X) pattern.

[@RegularOldDan]

Sweet! Multi-color printing done RIGHT! 😁 I may just have to print a Prime. I've been thinking about printing one of their models for some time. "Shut up, Megatron." 🤣🤣

[@TheVelociRapper23]

Try floor polish on the joints

[@MiraiKishi]

Probably should have used Future Floor Polish for the joints to give 'em a bit more friction. But you also could have used something with Polyethylene in it? PE is used for Gundam Model Kits for ball sockets and joints.

[@dekopuma]

For the ball joints, how about some resin mixed with baby powder?

[@asob17]

Darkest Hour Designs makes fully transformable printed transformers. Working on a 6ft soundwave that transforms

[@palebluedot4968]

Hi! Personally I use superglue and baking soda to improve the grip of the ball joints: I spread the superglue on the ball joint, then I sprinkle it with baking soda. For me this solution works very well!

[@printbyteshub]

Amazing job. Could it help if you print the joints with fuzzy skin?

[@DavesDimension]

i just subscribed....i ordered a BAMBU p1p.....and these transformers are at the top of my list. I think these look amaizing. looking forward to your next video

[@BoomGiggity]

I'm wondering if a few dabs of tool rubberizer wouldn't provide some friction for the joints.

[@UncleJessy]

Solid idea!

[@vidsurfer0725]

Now this is cool. I apologize for being so overly critical of the Apple Vision Pro videos, I was getting fatigued hearing about it, and usually genuinely enjoy the content that is like this. One day I hope to design something cool enough to get a shout out on one of your videos. Until then, I'll keep designing and see what happens.

[@sdunn5643]

Paint the ball joints with uv resin. Cure and test fit. Repeat if needed.

[@hernandezf58]

One of the things I did was enlarge the joints, and that helped...

[@UncleJessy]

Trying that out later today!

[@fredoman1323]

Thanks Jessy. Looks like I'm getting that Mazinger Z. Wonder if I can print this -300% to have it fit in my Phrozen Mini. Or...my buddy Ed can step up and work his Prusa overtime, hehe.

[@tmilker]

I've seen people use blue tack/mounting putty to tighten up joints.

[@UncleJessy]

Ohhh thats an interesting idea

[@imousschannel]

I've used some super glue dots for joints 👌

[@alexanderdiogenes8067]

Mold some Green Stuff around those loose joints!

[@user-ge7pu8ve4k]

SOOOOOOOO VERY COOOOOL!!!!! THANK YOU 4 SHARING!!!!!!❤😂🙏🫶👍

[@SnyperMac1]

Well i use future floor polish to fix up loose joints on most toys

[@LincolnWorld]

I am going to turn into a 3D printed truck now.

[@darthalba3785]

Bad ass!

[@Fearedbynone02]

i did his atomic dragon at 200% and it is huge. 28" tall with about a 3 foot tail. its in my office on top my filing cabinet :) people love it.