Chinese diesel heater, burn chamber chopped open to reveal mesh.

[@bigoldgrizzly]

Other than for those folks with inquisitive minds who just can't resist trying 'free' fuels, I think the best route is to run these on their intended fuel, diesel, or if you can get it, perhaps some kerosene, and work on getting the best heat recovery per unit of fuel. Harvesting waste exhaust heat is an obvious start point. Reliability and long service intervals are also a big plus for me. Enjoyed the video - thanks

[@shanehogarth6373]

Thanks Grizzly take a look at the other video I have uploaded regarding this issue 👍

[@robertedwards87]

great video ,very useful info and well presented looking forward to the next one

[@shanehogarth6373]

Glad you enjoyed it, just uploading another.

[@dogdazetravellergarrett1367]

Nice video...... Thanks 👍

[@99six90]

Thanks for sharing this video. I also have a heater set up as an experiment in my basement under the hallway in my house. im using it now on a daily basis to keep a base temp and using my wood burner for more warmth and comfort in the evenings. the oil fired central heating is off, but im using the red diesel for the central heating in my heater. i tried adding just 10% of old filtered engine oil and after about 50 hrs of running, it started coming out of the air intake (combustion). it was a thick goo like stuff more like tar than 10w40 oil! it clogged the inlet tube and started gurgling as the heater was drawing air through it. it ran perfectly again when i went back to 100% red diesel. i bought another heater and will now take the clogged one apart for cleaning and experimenting with. i was also hoping to be able to remove the ring inside the chamber to be able to get at the mesh with oven cleaner for a better clean out, will see if mine comes out. thanks agin for the good video.

[@shanehogarth6373]

Your layout sounds similar to mine, I will make a video of it at some point. I did find that the temperature at the outlets was greatly improved by using twin wall insulated flexible ducting. Take a look at Joel's video kzbin.info/www/bejne/pXTCkqJparqZiJY there's some good info here regarding the issue of the crap leaking out.

[@Paul-uf2ou]

Very interesting, I have one designed to heat engine coolant. Hope to use it to preheat a spa pool one day. Nice to know what to look out for inside. Good on you mate.

[@frederick6008]

Thanks, never knew there was a metal mesh inside. Great job. Keep the videos coming.

[@shanehogarth6373]

Thanks, will do. Probably won't do much more on the heaters now until Autumn. But hope to do some more on other stuff I have an interest in before then. Thanks for viewing and for the comment.

[@andreashoferpartei]

Nice piece of advice. Thanks!

[@RustyInventions-wz6ir]

Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice heater.

[@shanehogarth6373]

Thanks for the sub!

[@jamesbrokentech]

wow yours looks like constructed differently, yours has 2 weld seams, mine has no weld seams at all. Maybe try sourcing a new burn chamber that doesn't look welded in the photos i think that mesh is an insulator to stop the heat melting the steel around the main burn area. ive got a 20kw diesel water heater coming soon, probably end of jan. subbed!

[@shanehogarth6373]

Yes you are right, it has 2 weld seams. I have a new one and it's up and running already, but it's good to have this one on hand for some future experiments. Good luck with the big burner. I built one out of a cast pot belly stove which I then housed in a sealed oil drum. Works well with tremendous heat output, but bulky. I may do a video of this in the new year. Cheers.

[@Ralphs-House]

Its carbon felt (otherwise known as welding blanket). Acts as a wick. You can't get in to replace it and it can get clogged if you use fuel it wasn't designed for. I have a sheet of the stuff. Now if only someone designed/sold a burn chamber that bolted together so you could fully strip it down. I'll work on that...

[@Cypaful]

Thx for info!

[@jamie-hb8gy]

The disk at the bottom won't come out with heaters that have the weld around the chamber only the non welded.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Good information. To start, I will say that I'm pretty sure that there isn't any standard for these chambers. I have seen many variations. I think that other guy got lucky with his baffle coming out ... and they are supposed to be welded in, I tried to get mine out when I saw that video, and mine wouldn't budge either... Also, I'm 99% sure that not all of them have the mesh inside where you show it. Some of the Webesto heaters actually have a giant mesh that you can see looking into the end if the chambre, but mine doesn't appear to have anything behind that ring. I have removed the baffle on the fan side so that I could clean that area out... and there's no mesh or screen in mine. Unless it has totally vaporized, it was never there. I have been considering putting mine in the lathe and making the end removable for cleaning, as I am experimenting with fuels and have to clean it out a LOT. Cheers !

[@shanehogarth6373]

It would be a lot easier if you could get I to that area without destroying it. Let us know how you get on 👍

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@shanehogarth6373 I took the baffle off and polked in from the back side. Mine doesn't have a mesh, so I have cleaned it several times now. I have cleaned it several times this week 😂 (experimenting with burning waste oil is not going well)

[@shanehogarth6373]

@@loweredexpectations4927 Hi, yes I know that feeling. In fact my last upload is all about how I am at a point of diminishing returns now. Take a look when you have a moment. Cheers and Happy cred free new year from the UK

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@shanehogarth6373 I have checked it out and left a comment. Cheers.

[@shanehogarth6373]

Crud...not cred

[@originalAtreyu]

Would love to find the video in of the guy who got the two pieces apart...

[@alexaldea8961]

Put please the video with that guy that took off the ring ?

[@rattech]

Nice vid. Could you get a better shot of the mesh? The lighting makes it hard to see. I've got a couple ideas on modifying mine to run a bit more motor oil. I'm only on 1:3 oil to kero at the moment but want to increase the ratio. But I was getting starting issues going any higher. I've adjusted mine to be as lean as possible without flaming out. It makes it run cooler but I'm hoping will make for a more complete burn. Some mods I plan on doing to mine are: Ally intercooler on the exhaust with fans on it to extract all the heat out of it. Insulate the fuel intake pipe so it can conduct some heat from the housing and warm up the incoming fuel to make it less viscous and hopefully burn better. Put a catalytic burner from a ziopo hand warmer in the entrance of the burn chamber, in hopes it will glow red hot and aid in better burning of oil? Not sure. I've bought some tho and want to try fit it soon. Also put a 12v 3d printer heater cartridge that is wired up in parallel with the glow plug that would be attached to the fuel pipe to heat up the fuel when cold starting to aid in starting.

[@shanehogarth6373]

Thanks! Great ideas and keep is informed of the progress. I have tried collecting Tue hear from.tje exhaust and it's quite surprising just how much you can retrieve. I used am old EGR cooler and then pumped water through it and to a heat exchanger from an old commercial fridge and it belted out the heat. I never made it permanent but when I do I will for sure make a video. Thanks for the comment and good luck. Have fun and stay safe.

[@stoneyswolf]

Doesn't seem to cost effective to burn waist oil if it's gonna keep destroying your heating unit.

[@l3umfights]

what happens if you take out the mesh and do not put it back in?

[@shanehogarth6373]

Not tried that yet, but will.and we can see.

[@shanehogarth6373]

Take a look at @loweredexpectations Joel tried this and it did run but not brilliantly. He's since used a stainless scouring pad type of thing and that just disintegrated pretty quickly. Cheers.

[@gerardmcgee]

What about dripfeeding waste oil into the flame path of the flame inside the burn tube as close as possible to the air/flame vortex

[@shanehogarth6373]

Now this is something else I have been thinking about. However, I have built a large drip feed oil burner and it works incredibly well and produces vast amounts of heat, interestingly though the burn pot needs emptying pretty much every session as there is always a pile of crap in the bottom. So, I am sort of thinking that the CDH will always need regular cleaning when on waste oil, and not sure if I cam be bothered with that, despite the obvious cost advantage. But may give it a go.

[@DonaldRak-ku6bi]

Question to you Sir: Why is Abedele 5.0-8.0 heater fan surging on energy my battery is good solid 12v with 4 amp charger pushing it charge wise but i found out working with it there was No air filter in cyl that came with it and No air filter on big intake fan on back and No fuel filter, So i had clean out fuel tank of black Diesel Snot inside tank and blow out fan on back abd make filter for big fan , Question 2 is there something i didnt do to stop fan rpm surging up and down like power loss

[@jameshall1311]

Hi ,thanksvfor thecintersting vid and tips. Can you advise for the burner ,is the fuel pipe bolted on or welded in place. Thanks Jim

[@shanehogarth6373]

Hi Jim, thanks for watching and for the comment. It's welded and comes attached to the burn chamber. Hope that helps.

[@jameshall1311]

@Shane Hogarth thanks for that, I bought a 5kw 12 months ago and have only just installed it.( your vid gave me the courage to install it) Found a leak on the fuel inlet pipe at the elbow where it goes into the casing. Have done a temporary patch but may need to replace the burner if the pipe is welded as you advise. So thanks for the info on that. Watching your videos has made me feel a little more positive in sorting out the heater issues. Cheers Jim

[@shanehogarth6373]

@@jameshall1311 No worries, glad to be of some help. It cost me about 16 quid for a replacement burn chamber, so unless you have access to braizing equipment it's probably not worth trying to repair it. Like all these Chinese products we all enjoy the value for money and low prices, but quality is a bit of a lottery. Good luck with it Jamea and thanks again. Please subscribe if you haven't already, next autumn I intend to return with vengeance to the diesel heater projects. Cheers.

[@jameshall1311]

Hi Shane ,thanks can you advise where you bought the replacement burner from please.? Cheers Jim

[@shanehogarth6373]

@@jameshall1311 Hi James, was a seller on eBay, "jorwetpart" I've just checked the listing and it's still there @ £17.39 item number 385127914828. Hope that helps.

[@seymourpro6097]

When you cut the flame tube were the sparks orange (steel) or white (titanium) please?

[@shanehogarth6373]

Sorry, only just seen this. If I am honest I didn't take a lot of notice. I am going to say it's steel, but as you've asked, I will confirm and come back to you. Thanks for watching and for the comment.

[@shanehogarth6373]

Hi, apologies for not getting back to you sooner. I ran the tube across the bench grinder and can confirm we have orange 🍊. Cheers, Shane

[@mightyfinejonboy]

hi, would it burn better if you use the heater exhaust through the EGR cooler to heat the inlet air to the burner? just ordered one for my own tinkering and will aim at preheating the fuel side of things as well as preheating the burner inlet air.

[@shanehogarth6373]

Thanks, I have tried extremes of intake temperatures, about -3c and then +30 ish (not measured but air drawn across an egr cooler being used for heating water, and it didn't make any difference to the burn temperature at all.

[@pordrive]

I have the same issue, what does help a bit is changing the fuel air ratio in the settings, propping one end up (intake end) of the heater, thinning the oil out more , what i want to know is, how do they run without the gauze in the bottom? how does it run without the ring, or even cutting some out of the middle or moving it further up the tube ? and other thing they do a .28 pump,.22 is standard 5kw i have one but its 24v which i can get around with a relay etc., would they help in any way ? to add mine is all filtered through a 10 micron sock filter, would filtering through a 5 micron or less make any difference ? I've had my "8kw" for 5 years now and used it every winter some years on cooking oil with mixed but better results

[@shanehogarth6373]

Yes, waste cooking oil seems to produce better results than wmo in my experience. I have just read a comment elsewhere that someone has removed the mesh ring and uses a homemade steel wool mesh ring and replaces this each time he cleans.

[@vwpower71]

I have one that screws out . Not welded

[@shanehogarth6373]

Hi, is it a Chinese clone you have or an Ebespacher? I believe these were of a much superior build quality and design. Thanks for the comment.

[@SlightlyModifiedUk]

Great video, just what I was looking for. Can I ask, does it look like the burner tube is screwed together. I have mine in bits and it almost looks like there is a threaded flange holding both parts together. At first I thought it was just welded but I'm not not so sure.

[@shanehogarth6373]

Hi, thanks for watching and thanks for the comment! So mine isn't screwed and I intend to weld the tube back up and cut the back end off like this guy has..kzbin.info/www/bejne/iYvRcqOVnKeDabM. Hope that helps. Am working on a standalone ECU for the heaters at the moment and should be running a few tests in the coming week, so look out for another video soon. Cheers and good luck,👍

[@andrewnoblett9510]

As anyone tried putting fuel tank cleaner through it to clean it through. Might be worth a try

[@shanehogarth6373]

There is a guy who is currently trying all sorts of stuff to keep his clean, not sure on his success though, will see if I can find him and link to this reply. Oven cleaner helps but is not completely successful. Petrol and fire works pretty good and it's amazing just how long it burns for. Thanks for viewing and for the comment.

[@andrewnoblett9510]

@@shanehogarth6373 I have one of these heaters be nice to know thank you

[@shanehogarth6373]

Andrew, apologies for the delay in getting back to you. Family bereavement, holiday, lots to do. I couldn't find the youtuber I had in mind originally, but in the meantime Joel @loweredexpectations has been trying various cleaners. Take a look at his videos if you haven't already. Cheers

[@DonaldRak-ku6bi]

Yes, on the fuel cleaners just tonight Nov 6th put diesel kleen with cetane in mine on full tank fuel 2.5 oz that it and it's running as I send message cause mine was surging cause diesel dirt/ soot was in tank without filter was with kit in box So now I'm suffering cleaning diesel unit

[@martinwhite3005]

Hello, great and interesting video, cant wait for more. Out of curiosity, have you altered the oil to air ratio in the controller when burning was oil? I'm about to start testing mine. I intend to stay on kerosene and finish on kerosene, with an oil/kerosene mix for main running...

[@shanehogarth6373]

HI, thanks. I did try a twin pump arrangement and also a small 3 port valve to be easily able to start and finish the burn sessions on white diesel. The small Chinese 3 port valve failed quite quickly and I ditched that idea for a pair of matching pumps that had their outlets fed into a T and then into the heater. One pump was fed by diesel and the other with the waste mix, it was easy them just to switch between the 2 fuels using a small relay to feed the pump voltage to whichever fuel source required. However, the procedure didn't stop the inevitable clogging. The heater used for the experiments on waste oil was the type that doesn't allow a change in settings.(blue digits) I have a second heater that allows the changes to fan and pump.rates but so far only used that on diesel and diesel/wvo mix.

[@martinwhite3005]

@@shanehogarth6373 That's a shame you can't change the fuel / air ratio. Perhaps it would be worth changing the controller to one you can..

[@shanehogarth6373]

@@martinwhite3005 well I have 2 heaters, one that does have the ability to change pump rate and fan rpm and another that doesn't. Interestingly, the heat output from the one you can't tweak has always run a bit hotter than the one you can adjust regardless of how I change the settings on that.

[@robertedwards87]

forgot to ask where you ngot your replacement burn chamber

[@shanehogarth6373]

Chinese seller on ebay, 17 quid delivered, took about 2 weeks. 👍

[@robertedwards87]

@@shanehogarth6373 hi,thnks for the reply, ive managed to find them on ebay :)now its just a matter of finding the one that fits

[@shanehogarth6373]

@@robertedwards87 The original burner was from a vevor 8kwh heater and the replacement was rated 5kw. Absolutely no visible difference. But not adding to the whole 5kw - 8kw debate. 🙉

[@nextellcup8]

is there a hole in that mesh where the glow plug is ? i was changing out the screen that goes around the glow plug and it got stuck and and ended up pushing that screen through the hole. it all came out but im wondering if i damage the mesh . since i’ve done that its usually on the second or third attempt to fire up , i’ve only run diesel in it . thanks

[@shanehogarth6373]

The internal mesh is much further in than the glow plug home and you may be able to push it up from inside, but don't despair, there is a foolproof method to extract your mesh. Find a large course thread coach bolt intended for wood or plastic rawlplug, the sort of bolt that has a course tapered thread. Wind this into the hole and it will grip the inside of the glowplug mesh, when it's a few turns in and nice and tight, simply pull the bolt and mesh out together. Find the right size bolt and you will use it again and again. When you re-insert it, make sure it's down far enough to clear the quite small hole in the side of the mesh housing hole. Good luck, let us know how you got on. Thanks for the comment.

[@shanehogarth6373]

Sorry, just read your comment again properly...I was thinking you couldn't get the heater mesh out. I will have a look at a burn chamber and come back to you. These things are pretty indestructible and I am sure you won't have done any lasting damage though.

[@nextellcup8]

awesome, thanks for your reply. ill definitely do that next time

[@howardosborne8647]

yes,there is a hole through the main vortex chamber mesh that corresponds to where the glow plug mesh hole intersects.

[@aidenjohns8248]

Forget supercharging! the unit will not take it! did you adjust the mixture in the controller when you changed oils???... have you thought of adding hydrogen to combustion air inlet???... giving complete burn and less carbon..

[@shanehogarth6373]

Interestingly I did crudely stick the flow from a hairdryer into the combustion intake and the burn temperature rose quickly. Yes, I have run many tests with the afr adjusted, both by the controller and physically. I have two burners, one with the fixed map and the other with the accessible pump and fan menu. Never played with hydrogen. Also, the heater tuning by Vortex you have watched isn't foolproof, it's a great guide to get you going, but if like me you are looking for as much heat and as much air flow as you can get, then this method of tuning isn't great. If you have the pump set at 3.6Hz and fan at 5000rpm, you may have to choke it to get it to start reliably from cold. David McLuckie has some great videos. Thanks for the comment.

[@easymac79]

I wonder if companies got wind of people using them for waste oil and went to a weld joint to make them "disposable"/planned obsolescence. I think we all know they aren't supposed* to be run on waste oil. What I really want to know, is if they can run on natural gas or propane. I haven't seen it, and i've been scouring the internet. I have a gas outlet in my garage for the dryer, it burns cleaner. Propane is portable and nearly compatible. Why isn't this being explored. I might find myself posting the test results soon. Cheers!

[@shanehogarth6373]

Thanks for the comment Easymac. I did see somewhere, most likely on KZbin, a guy who was using his propane blowlamp to get a faster start up when using other fuels. He basically poked the flame end (unlit obviously ) of the blowlamp directly into the inlet port and gave it a wiff of gas to get it lit. They can be a bit slow to light on waste oil and if you cut it with petrol you can achieve easier start ups but then get other nasty side effects as the petrol gets burned first. Someone, Joel from @loweredexpectations I think, researched this and suggested anything over a 5% mix of petrol in the mix changes things significantly. Look forward to seeing your experiences with LPG. Cheers.

[@easymac79]

​@@shanehogarth6373 Thanks for your reply and the subscription. I have been mulling different fuel types. I do still intend to do a test burn with propane outside for fun. But I have resided to opt out of plumbing it to the home natural gas unless I got a professional to inspect it, but I don't think they would be cool with an unlisted Chinese knockoff. I am working on a sort of waste heat recovery from the exhaust, I have currently a rather sketchy set-up and until the chimney warms, it doesn't draft. The first few puffs of smoke are horrendously noxious. Propane start up could clean this out. I will first plan to use a small PC fan to pull a draft. I have a scrap wine cooler I found on the road. I'd like to mount most of everything inside the enclosure and use better sealed ducts. That way any exhaust leaks are contained, a door for easy access, and I'll strip any combustibles so if something goes wrong, it's mildly contained and may snuff itself before burning down the place. It is for a similar reason I absolutely don't want to use any portion of gasoline. I know all exhaust gases are bad, but just pulling the car into a garage is enough to stink it up for hours, I believe, it may or may not be true, that gasoline exhaust is much more toxic - especially without a catalytic converter for the diesel heater. I thought about e85 for a moment, clean burning alcohol, oh, wait - that's 15% gas! Biodiesel though. If I drive by a station (not many sell) I might pick up a couple gallons. And I'd like to refurbish my waste oils - vegetable and motor oil. Making biodiesel, and eventually a centrifuge, but I'm not keen on building something that spins at 20k RPM, the return on investment there doesn't make a lot of sense, and I heard/saw from David Mcluckie, that it cokes up in about 10 hours running pure waste motor oil. Maybe I'll throw a cup in per gallon just to validate why I've been hoarding waste oils.

[@shanehogarth6373]

@@easymac79 Thanks so much for the reply and information. It's great that you are looking at other avenues and thinking outside the box. I have run some tests using an old egr cooler from a Mercedes 320d plumbed into the exhaust and then circulated water through it to a large heat exchanger salvaged from a commercial cold cabinet. It worked excellently and ran surprisingly hot. But the egr cooler still wasn't capturing anything like all the available heat from the exhaust, so at some point I will return to this and either build something better than the egr cooler or maybe even get a second and plumb them in series. But for now I am concentrating on the control unit. It's easy to get distracted and never finish one thing...my life story really! Thanks again and good luck with experiments.

[@bobp6742]

You'll never burn waste oil efficiently in such a small burner. To burn oil it needs to be vaporized and needs much more air not just to fuel the flame but to shape it as well. Heavy oil boilers use a rotary cup to vaporize the oil and 3 air feeds (primary, secondary and tertiary air) the tertiary air is angled at the opposite direction of the rotary cup to help vaporize the oil off the end of the cup. You'll always end up with heavy carbon build up in these heaters, the best you can do is heavily dilute the oil with kerosene or diesel and preheat the oil to at least 90 degrees. I burn waste oil in my diesel space heater as it vaporizes the oil mixture into a fine mist and feeds the fuel with 2 different air feeds which is also controllable to deal with the different viscosity of oil mixes which leads to an extremely clean burn.

[@shanehogarth6373]

Thanks for the comment. Take a look at my other video of my waste oil burner.

[@barryyeatman5751]

no more oil in my diesel ruined mine not possible to clean this properly buy a new combustion chamber 17 pounds on ebay

[@shanehogarth6373]

Thanks for watching and for the comment Barry. So long as the mesh hasn't been badly damaged, you can normally with a bit of persistence get them clean enough. I tried the usual mentioned methods, oven cleaner, scraping etc. But found one of the most effective was to leave it soaking in petrol for a while and then set fire to it. Mine burnt for a surprisingly long time once all the petrol had burned off and guess that was the tar like substance that binds itself to the innards. But yes, for 17 quid delivered it makes sense to have a new one and then if you are able to clean the old one up you have this as a spare. Cheers.

[@ammarha9837]

.....

[@vaughnzacharias]

Why such a long video, get to the point. Could have been said and done in three minutes.

[@shanehogarth6373]

Feel free to move on. That's the joy of YT.

[@raymondj8768]

tHATS WILD I NEVER KNEW THERE WAS MESH IN THERE I HEAR TRANSMISSION FLUID BURNS HOT AS FK N DOESENT CLOG THEM UP HAVE U EVER TRYED THAT MR SHANE ? sorry dident know caps on lol

[@shanehogarth6373]

No not on it's own. Would be interested how it works.

[@raymondj8768]

@@shanehogarth6373 it will but i cut it 50/50 with diesel or k1

[@raymondj8768]

@@shanehogarth6373 it works great no problems at all i like trans fluid best cause it burns so clean n it saves u money also with everything getting so expensive .