Diesel Heater testing filtered waste oil - 50/50 diesel oil mix modified burn chamber - part 3

[@bigclivedotcom]

All very useful experiments.

[@legionofanon]

Fun seeing you around the tubez C=

[@bryaninglis]

I've ran one of these heaters in a static caravan for a few years now, along with many other residents. We mostly run on Kerosene and have had few problems, mainly pump failures (Not due to kerosene) and glow plugs. No blockages to date. Started out on red diesel unto we found a local source of kerosene. In the future, looking at probably an Afterburner, but running my own Arduino solution just now. Many of our setups run larger 6mm OD flexible pipes and use push airline fittings as well. Best mod was replacing standard fuel tank for outboard style tank, with Mariner quick connections and a hand purge BULB for quickly purging the line. Other mod was replacing power cables with 4mm supply and have no electrical issues since even at ~10m length.

[@Paul_Munro]

I run two in a static, both with afterburners- highly recommended and we've easily saved more in fuel than the cost of them. Burn red. Failures fan bearings (wish they'd use better quality!🤷‍♂️) and occasional pump. How do you make connections to pump, filter, heater using the 6mm od pipe? this is something I want to do. I use this pipe and fittings elsewhere.

[@johnhansen337]

I have given up bothering to add my findings about paraffin in recent decades (I am 70 now). I just got stupid abusive replies. In "yer early days" as Alf Garnet used to say, there were 3 grades of paraffin. They were readily available, and you specified which you required. The cylindrical stand alone paraffin stoves (usually situated next to the spitoon) used the coarse stuff, the large mantle lamps and Tilley pressure lamps could use either of the two finer grades. The jets in the lamps and the mantles lasted an impressive amount of time if they used the best paraffin, but many hated paying the higher price. The common wick and chimney lamps required the best stuff. I recall my grandparents quoting the names of some of the best oils, used in wick burning lamps, and they sadly regretted the way they were no longer on sale at the chemists in nicely painted tins. Using paraffin in a wick and chimney lamp is the acid test to whether it is a clean burning oil. I have used paraffin in my lamps, Tilleys, and my Russian/German/Chinese turbo heaters, and one third of the time they were just OK, some smoke at the wick, but OK. One third of the time it was hell to get lit, and vaporising was difficult. One third of the time the paraffin was useless and overheated the turbo heater, and in one case the paraffin (if that is what it was) acid burned a hole in its can. The boat stank for weeks after that subtle plastic can leakage in the locker. In short, I can't find a source of paraffin, I hope readers can, BUT if my grandparents were around and they saw you using it, they would throw it away 🙂

[@MiniLuv-1984]

If you feed nitro glycerine after the waste oil, the burn chamber will be clean...spread across the neighbourhood, but clean. :) Your knowledge of these contraptions is exemplary David. Thank you for educating us! All the very best to you and yours.

[@BenVeenstra]

I don't know much about all the different fuels and so my question is, can't kerosine do the same? Or will nitro glycerine burn even hotter? 😈

[@Refertech101]

@@BenVeenstra Nitroglycerin is oxygen positive (That means there is left over oxygen molecules left after it has consumed its self) So it burns incredibly hot and leaves residue oxygen to consume the carbon. Ironically disolved with enough diesel this would make a good fuel additive, but pesky red tape makes it hard to formulate such a fuel additive.

[@BenVeenstra]

@@Refertech101 thanks! That makes sense.

[@TheVespap200e]

Thanks David! Nice to see the true results of waste oil burning!😀👍

[@volvo09]

Yeah, burning engine oil is diiiiiirrrrrty. I assume waste oil burners that shops use run hot enough to turn the oil waste into ash and blow it away. I had a home made waste oil burner made out of a propane gas bottle and even on a red hot base the oil will still turn to this grey concrete you have to smash away with a hammer. I had to clean it daily, or if I ran it for 4 hours I'd have to shut it down and clean it to keep it going.

[@Nordic_Mechanic]

Found a way to not alter design and open it to change the mesh. Infinitely cleanable burning with no welding required ! I`ll be posting the video soon.

[@BenVeenstra]

I'll be keeping an eye on this! Sounds too good to be true but please prove me wrong! I have no idea how this would work but I was thinking, could someone design a completely different/new burn chamber inside the existing design? So it could burn waste oil? 🎉

[@carstencroessmann]

Do you have an update for us?

[@techtinkerin]

You are definitely the doctor of diesel heaters! Brilliant demo, cant wait to see your next attempt. 🌲👍😎 Merry crimbo from Manchester UK

[@darrenpyott6291]

I’ve run a couple of these on various mixes of oil and diesel, even isopropyl and oil but eventually they are not happy. I’ve never opened mine to check but noticed the burn noise change to a deeper tone and smoke. I found putting half a bottle of wyns extreme diesel system cleaner fuel additive through a tank of 100% diesel sorted that. It would be interesting to see how it worked to clear what deposits you have in the burn chambers! Great content and love the delivery. Keep up the good work. 👍

[@johnhansen337]

That is as useful a reply as the article itself. The cleanliness of the fuel was always the key to getting these things going for a few months before they clog. I never thought of giving them the same treatment as you would an engine. Great input, Thanks.

[@thefix2573]

Thanks for continue to try. I have 2 diesel heaters and access too much motor oil. Only way I do it is a stainless steel dog dish in the shop woodstove, just have to refill it every couple hours. My Grandpa had an oil drip stove.

[@BenVeenstra]

I suppose the downside is that you need a wood stove with a chimney/insulated pipe all the way to the canopy. That is expensive to install these days. And a lot more work. Also, won't burn as efficiently or as clean for the atmosphere. But in a rocket stove it will burn a little better with the secondary burn event of smoke and all. I'm considering a rocket stove with added oil drip pan together with heating hot water to feed my existing radiators. Quite the project but with current prices I might just get my investment back within one cold winter.

[@reubenk7331]

Wow, thank you VERY much for doing this test. I still wonder about switching between diesel, a mixture, and then back to diesel before shutting off. This video made me greatly reconsider that setup even with oil that has extremely low mileage. To me saving a little bit on fuel isn't really worth it, if I have to replace components fairly often. I might try to find out who was switching back to diesel and see how their machine is. I with more people would find this video when searching for running these on a 50/50 mix because THIS is the video they really need to see.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Brilliant video ! I love your way of describing things. I envy your ability to stand by the camera and freestyle rant while getting lots of info across. I struggle with my videos... trying to get as much info across as possible, yet I feel my half hour videos are less informative than your 15 minute ones. Good stuff. Keep up the good fight !

[@Dirt-Diggler]

Don't do yourself down, the pair of you do a great service providing proof and sensible advice 👍 Not many will listen unfortunately but you both do a fooking brilliant job and I applaud you 👍😁👍

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@Dirt-Diggler Thanks Dirt.... I wasn't looking for sympathy 🤣, but thanks.

[@DavidMcLuckie]

It's taken me a long time. Perseverance and practice. Also one thing I learned from AVE a long time ago. Have zero time for anyone's negativity. Someone's being a dick, blocked, never have to think about them ever again.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@DavidMcLuckie Ah yes... AVE... Not a bad act to follow.

[@shawnl4073]

I love your content. Very definitive answers and experiments that every CDH should know! Thanks a million!

[@cliffelmore5834]

As far as burning, WMO goes. The burn chamber will always get a build-up. There is no way around it. The ratio of oil to diesel determines. The amount of time between clean outs. Good video, as always.

[@Dirt-Diggler]

Gracias el David From all your fellow mexicans and a few mexicants 👍

[@glumpy10]

Results are exactly as I expected. Don't matter what it is mixed with, the oil will always leave a residue in this application that will build up in proportion to the amount used. I will be very interested to see this product that will allow waste oil use. Unless it somehow distils the fuel or vaporises it before introduction to the burner, it will be some sort of miracle in my book.

[@DavidMcLuckie]

Sadly no miracle machine. It just allows longer run time between cleans hopefully. But seeing as I've only had swapped this burn chamber four times and have already partially stripped some threads, I'm going to recommend helicoiling it all if taking it apart regularly is a thing.

[@NoelBarlau]

Great job with the experiments! Really fascinating to see the differences in carbon build-up. I think I'll stick with good ol' offroad diesel fuel.

[@maranmarantakeiteazie]

Great work David!

[@SillyMonkeys]

Thank you David, the engine oil experiment was very interesting, wont be using that so...I'm in South Mexico near Galway 😊 , I've switched to heating oil / Kerosene recently, its actually a good bit cheaper than road diesel.... So far so good, I feel it burns a bit hotter too. Will let you know if anything strange happens....keep up the important work 😋and have a nice holiday period...cheers..Michael

[@79RockShox]

I've been running mines on a mix of waste oil, veg oil,. rape seed oil mixed with thinners or white spirit and whatver I had laying about and could not get diesel quickly lol, but aye in my experience there is no proper mix that will work with these standard heaters, they all get carboned/gummed up eventually, well, the one I abuse in the garage does, one for my campervan has not been abused that way LOL, I think I used your videos to strip and clean my garage one, still works fine! :)

[@BitterCynical]

Free heat with waste oil is a very attractive idea. But in the end it's probably more ecological and economical to industrially recycle that oil so it's once more a useful lubricant than it is to burn it producing waste that still needs recycling.

[@dewaynewhitney5703]

I've seen a bunch of videos on people using motor oil and they end up with the same problem. But I've never seen anyone try used cooking oils, like deep friar oil. I would love to know if that would work. I have 250 gallons of it for my smelter and stove heater. I have access to alot of it. If that works I'd be extremely grateful. Love your content and I'll let yall try out all of those concoction first. Lol. Good luck and be careful.

[@RustyShakleford1]

It can burn that mixed with 25% petrol

[@philbrooke-little7082]

Just an observation about carbon. When my lighting was provided by Aladdin lamps and they would sometimes run away and soot up the mantle the easy way to clean them was with a pinch of salt down the chimney while it was running and it just burned away in a moment. I’ve no idea why it worked but it did.

[@Dirt-Diggler]

Maybe it's similar to the way eolys fluid works to clean DPFs 🤔 by lowering the temp the soot will burn and turn to Ash ?

[@thefix2573]

Study a burner made for waste oil.

[@remijio303]

Burnt engine oil produces ash, which just can't be burnt off. That's why engines with DPF have ultra low ash engine oil. DPFs get blocked up by ash eventually from engine oil being burnt on engines, it doesn't get burnt off in DPFs either. Could make some sort of internal scrubbing or knocking device to periodically break apart the ash?

[@mathewclark6971]

Egr spray cleaner will work... its very aggressive and will even softer the left over and allow it to burn

[@haydenc2742]

Reweld the end cap/baffle back on the end of the burner (not way down in the chamber next to the fuel inlet...to create an enclosedish tube) It seems that the carbon/additives goo just dribbled/blew out the end of the burn chamber and coated the inside of the body, with that end cap but further away, it might hold more...but looks like it just sludged/carboned up) Fooey...it definitely seems it just is destined to clog up, the additives/carbon really has no place to go and just crapifies up the exhaust Very very cool on the experimentation though...it seems to have worked but like you said...it will eventually clog up no matter what To dissolve the carbon on the mesh...just soak the mesh in a tub of petrol(gasoline) that should break it down enough so you can blow out the mesh with compressed air Thanks for all the hard work you are doing! Keep em coming!!!!

[@BenVeenstra]

Out of experience I know soaking the mesh to blow it out won't work. After clogging up, even when burning kerosine, soaking and blowing it will never burn the same :( the mesh is too fine. It is very surprising when you see it in person. I'm curious about your other statement though! 😮 I'm very interested if someone could design a completely new burn chamber that will fit the existing heater made for waste oil burning or even just being able to get rid of the build up easily 🎉

[@tullgutten]

For cleaning the burn chamber (not the aluminium part but the steel one) just soak it in hot caustic soda/drain cleaner, doesn't do much to the steel but eats away soot and aluminium

[@BDAWGRANGER]

Thanks for this David, do you think using steal wool as a replacement for the metal gauze (and possible minimal retainer held in place by drilling and tapping a hole in the center of the slotted mixer tube) would allow for propper air flow / mix to restore burn chamber use. In short, lightly packed steel wool held in place with maybe a 3.5cm long X .75cm wide sheet metal held in place with a machine screw (or self tapper to speed up experiment) Hope this makes sense to you.

[@DavidMcLuckie]

That's not a terrible idea. Would certainly save buying a new burn chamber every time. Could even experiment with different gauze size.

[@erichammond7140]

Trial and error that is how ideas become reality

[@carlos_sacalul]

Hi,in that 5 liter reservoir i mixed 2.5 l diesel,2 l hydraulic oil and 0.3l gasoline,mixed verry well and no problems,no smoke ,clean burn. I used until now 5 full tanks of this mix and no problems. I dont know what is in my burn chamber but no error until now in 5 tanks burned. Maybe you should try this mix. Cheers

[@DavidMcLuckie]

Burning waste hydraulic oil isn't an issue. It doesn't have the same level of contaminants as engine oil. There is almost no residue in the waste oil burners I've seen running on hydraulic oil.

[@cuansmusic]

I have a question Dave. Is there a way to clean the burn chamber without dismantling the unit or is it even necessary to do this? My unit was having trouble starting and staying lit and i suspected it was due to carbon build up because i replaced the plug and cleaned the mesh atomizer thingy. Also, Do you have a video on cleaning the heater? I looked in your channel but couldn't find one. Thanks a million for the videos! C

[@seeker1432]

I find the more Flammable, The less the heat created. But i can understand a slower diesel burn, I'm guessing it will not flash as quick and create more heat. Remembering its not the burn we get heat from, But from around the casing blown by a fan.

[@gotelemwillyboyshere]

Don't know if this has been talked about before , but what about ultra-sonic to loosen the carbon and expell thru exhaust ?

[@RustyShakleford1]

Or even ultrasonically injecting the waste oil vapor into the burn chamber

[@glyngibbs9489]

Thanks for the tenacity. What about adding a hho feed?

[@WaffleStaffel]

What about cooking oil? Do you think it's worth the effort to convert to biodiesel, or does it burn cleanly as-is?

[@BS-ql5nl]

My kerosene (home heating boiler) central heating burner pump has been pumping oil for over 30 years people say kerosene has no lubrication I disagree and say kerosene, parifin or home heating oil or whatever you want to call it has lubricant it is oil and burns very clean.

[@BenVeenstra]

There are (at least here in the Netherlands) different ratings for the kerosine. The more expensive the less lubrication and more pure it is. So maybe the real pure stuff might become a problem. Forgot the rating system. I just look at prices. But thanks to the government here, kerosine is more expensive than diesel. So that is no option anymore 😢

[@BS-ql5nl]

@@BenVeenstra In the GB there is two types of home heating oil I believe I order the less smoke type 28 second for low flu on my boiler and 35 second will be used in high flu boilers and commercial use allso as jet fuel. So I pay around 60 pence per litre which includes taxes and I live in a area of gas heating or kerosene oil heating is popular and so I don't need to burn waste oil in my diesel heater.

[@BenVeenstra]

@@BS-ql5nl that is a big difference with the Netherlands. Especially now Germany is also slowly getting rid of kerosine heating. You can't buy it in bulk anymore.

[@carstencroessmann]

I would try heat, use a torch until the carbon starts ignite and glows after use just compressed air, this is how I cleaned the intake manifold of my sisters Audi A3 Diesel. You will be amazed how much flames will come out.

[@DavidMcLuckie]

I wonder if the wicking mesh would survive the temperature required to burn the carbon off?

[@carstencroessmann]

@DavidMcLuckie A good point, but as far as I saw it in your video the mesh should be quite thick compare to metal wool. I don't have a clogged one on hand, maybe you have and give it a try. But the proof is already there, the mesh was welded, during the weld process it should catch fire, but it doesn't so I would say it resists burning temperatures. Greetings from Germany

[@cknowles2805]

Based on your experiences, will burning kerosene adversely affect a diesel heater? I’m concerned about a possible lack of lubrication for the pump. Thanks again, I really appreciate your videos.

[@DavidMcLuckie]

Kerosene burns fantastically. Pump doesn't care. It's the same pump they use for the gasoline heaters.

[@frederick6008]

Sounds like you may owe millions in Carbon Credits. I happen to sell them at a discount 😂

[@haydenc2742]

Don't worry..his grass and trees (and green plants) love him

[@draken1511]

Got an idea for you to test. 15 or so years ago I was in the crowd converting home #2 fuel oil heaters to run on WMO/ATF. The big key was preheating the oil. The cold oil is far too viscous, warming it up made it thin out substantially and it would suddenly burn pretty good. I don't have a spare diesel heater to experiment with, but Id wager preheating the oil externally or by a wrap or two of metal pipe around the heat exchanger might make a functional improvement. Please don't make me go buy a new heater to test this theory! lol

[@scottshellenberger4721]

I think an actual high pressure injector is needed. Similar to those in a diesel truck.

[@NetisAmarok]

I‘m interested, what would happen if you run that modified burn chamber just with diesel tho Also kinda surprised that this mesh runs around the bottom part of the chamber in there. Also, what‘s behind the fuel pump in your setup?

[@BenVeenstra]

I'm interested in that as well!

[@DavidMcLuckie]

To the left of the fuel pump is a battery volt/amp meter and a shunt.

[@Faithinthedock]

I know times are hard for a lot of people but I think diesel / heating oil (Kerosene) is still the way to go. Burning old oil just looks nasty nasty. Regarding heat output, that's really interesting. In the US it shows diesel having a higher BTU than Kerosene but when I did a UK search a company was saying heating oil (kerosene) had a slightly higher BTU than diesel.... How bizarre..

[@barracuda2421]

Yo le introduzco aire comprimido x el tubo de escape mientras está funcionando...y se limpia.

[@stevietech]

With the burn chamber with the 50/50 mix that ran through the full tank, could you run it on straight diesel or kerosene afterwards and burn through the old carbon deposits? I'm torn about learning more from you because i need an excuse to buy one myself so i can bugger around with it!

[@yodab.at1746]

I think burning kero with touch of 2stroke oil to slow the burn down might be a good way to go for highest heat output. In my experience, kero doesn't get it quite as hot as diesel because of the faster burn. Its seems counter intuitive, but thats the way it is. Btw, i mistakenly put expensive diesel in mine instead of ordinary diesel and actually found i hsd a better heat output, but thinking about it, it makes sense because in order to get better power or mpg, you'd need a hotter (but not faster) burning fuel.

[@cknowles2805]

I like burning kero because handling diesel is messy and once spilled, it is hard to get rid of the smell. Could you expand on adding 2 stoke oil to kero to make it burn hotter?

[@yodab.at1746]

Actually, I don't think its worth adding 2 stroke as I think it will still clog the big mesh/gauze. Cleaning might ultimately be easier but it will still clog because the gauze isn't actually going to get hot enough to burn the carbon away.

[@dirk013adfa]

Only came here to say Merry Christmas, but stayed for the "I don't want to hear it...." 😆😆😆😆😆

[@NimblyJimbly]

Could you use an ultrasonic cleaner to clean off the carbon deposits?

[@BenVeenstra]

I'm interested in that!

[@NoToPCBS]

there is a small hole at the top of the glow plug that allows air in. has anyone tried to make that a little bigger to see if it burns cleaner?

[@sanduafaceri2792]

David poți face și un test cu biodisel pe viitor? Cred ca merita! ❤❤❤

[@TheKaptainKernow]

Could you find anyone with a centrifugal filter you could get a bit of oil off, just to try it? I have no idea whether it would stop the gumming up (it's mostly good for particulates and metal fines, to make it clean enough to go through an injection pump, so might not affect the stuff that's making all the crap you've got in there), but it'd be interesting to see either way

[@SPIDERM0OSE]

Would running steam up the air intake hydro-clean the burn chamber innards enough to shoot the carbon out the exhaust ?

[@RaithUK]

I wonder if an electronics ultra-sonic cleaner can remove the carbon and deposits from the chamber/mesh.

[@BenVeenstra]

😮 I'm curious 🤔

[@DavidMcLuckie]

I've only got a little crappy ultrasonic bath. All it's done so far it make the water dirty.

[@RaithUK]

@@DavidMcLuckie Yer i suppose that should of been an abvious outcome.. afterall they are only designed to take over tiny layers of grime not massive carbon and what not materials lol.

[@rednecktek2873]

Since vegetable oil doesn't have the additives that motor oil does, wouldn't it burn cleaner? Or at least leave less deposits?

[@greenfrog58]

Nice app!

[@williammchale9138]

Is this mineral oil you are running

[@coachgeo]

Why was removing Mesh even considered to be done in these experiments?? unless it was a sorta intended to create worst case scenario? IMHO a better experement would have been pre-heated oil to further reduce viscosity allowing for better automization... or trying the petrol mix?? Oh well.... curious what the next plan is you hinted at. Thanks for doing these PS- heating oil and Kero in many parts of the world are same price as road diesel

[@yodab.at1746]

Heating the oil will make absolutely no difference. It does not depend on viscosity. It depends on clean burning fuel that doesn't leave a deposit.

[@coachgeo]

@@yodab.at1746 yes/no While the combustibility value will not change with lower viscosity; as you point out.... there is a reality that a lower viscosity by heating it (along with added benefits of starting out being hotter pre glow plug?) will allow heater's design and components to better do their thing as intended. AKA maximize the ability of heater to do its thing, thus enhancing its ability to work with a sub-optimal combusting, contaminated, light oil . I wonder if viscosity of WMO WVO etc.. needs to actually be lower than diesel to allow any kind of burner designed for diesel to do it's thing even close to how optimally it normally does with diesel Kero itself. Then there is as you point out... what "thing(s) to do/add to the alt. fuel to bring it up to something with combustion characteristics of the diesel the gizmo was designed for. IMHO blending alone is not enough, Nor is pre-heating the fuel alone not enough. Likely it is both need to happen and maybe a hotter glow plug (or over powering it?) Other Options?? Gas/petrol & diesel along with pre-heated fuel or some combination of? .. where that may be of benefit is there is some suggestions that an octane component in the fuel blend will create a secondary flame front which helps combust the; as you pointed out", not as combustible WMO/WVO etc. in the first place. Granted that still does not help with the added detergents and other components in WMO case though. IMHO that needs to be treated first to make a lot of that stuff fall out before even using it as a fuel. (bleaching some call it) HHO, Ethanol or LPG fumigation into the combustion area might also help the light oil alt. fuel to get fully combusted?? still though..... nearly imposible to optimize the heater and alt fuel to that of diesel... likely one would need to clean burn chamber more often. Have more than one and rotate them??? .. Likely not worth it in normal times....... now in SHTF times when diesel no much available.... that is a different story. Then you might be fumigating in wood gas lo

[@stevesweb]

Curious, do you filter your waste oil then add the diesel or add the diesel then filter? You may be able to increase your filter material by adding the diesel first. Just a thought.

[@BenVeenstra]

Hmm, Idea sounds good but when you dilute a substance and then filter it won't it just take longer to filter and take out the same amount of particles? And leave you with the same amount of dirty filter?

[@BenVeenstra]

I wanted to add, a centrifuge could (i think) actually solve this. There is no filter in that. So if you do that before filtering and adding the diesel it will flow through the centrifuge more easily.

[@kbeightyseven1783]

Engine oil. New or used will always leave deposits due to the additives some which are non flammable, the only oils that would burn clean and completely is clean cooking oil, kerosene, diesel, the diesel heaters would be more efficient if they could burn hotter but the casing relies on being cooled by the passing air and the standard material wouldn't be able to acheive the temps without damaging itself. What you are trying to acheive isn't possible, the dpf reaches temps over 600ºc A modified dpf, could work but achieving the temps with a glow plug and fan would be difficult but not impossible

[@neilsmith1425]

Can you use kerosene in these with no issues? Ive only ever used red diesel but its quite smokey on start up. Ive heard kerosene burns cleaner and is cheaper 🤷

[@DavidMcLuckie]

Yes, kero works great.

[@jamessavage8220]

curiously, there are a number of people out there that claim to run oil/diesel mix as well as veg oil and hydraulic oil and all sorts of stuff and "it ran for years". They also claim it gets carbon fouled but somehow it takes quite a while. I have no idea how long it takes for it to get like that. I have read some folks run dual tanks and start with pure diesel, switch to something more like a 60/40 mix, then finish with a diesel burn. IDK. I suppose it's a way to use up some old oil if you can make it work but, it also seems like a lot of struggle if you don't have to.

[@DavidMcLuckie]

I'm finding there is a mix of comments of people running engines on waste oil commenting it runs fine which is confusing if I'm not paying attention. There is the occasional person saying their heater is running on it. But it does seem to be just a matter of how much waste, how dirty, how long before it needs cleaned.

[@farmerboyfpv3637]

Maybe i just need to run it more or maybe my filter process is better or wase oil is different? I filter through a motor guard filter several times, loaded with scotts 1000 toiled paper. Then i cut with gas not diesel, and my heater hasnt failed yet. At this point when it dose i think it will just pay for a new. Ill try pulling the chamber when i get a sec.

[@DavidMcLuckie]

Maybe I should try 50/50 oil and gas (petrol). What's the worst that can happen? :)

[@farmerboyfpv3637]

@@DavidMcLuckie i need to pull my burn chamber and see also, maybe its just a mater of time. I run my pickup on wmo for thousands of miles and pulled the injectors, almost no buildup. I start and stop on diesel though, and I have alot of atf in my wmo also. Im just curious why, our shop heater dosnt have any carbon build up, just ash. We clean it once a year. Thease heaters should get hot enough to burn everything, maybe its just the start stop that cokes them up?

[@farmerboyfpv3637]

Oh! Also, I do my best to avoid synthetic. It cokes really bad compared to none synthetic, most of my blend is 15w-40 diesel oil.

[@Familyadventure369]

Ill make a video but i was able to run 90 diesel and 10 percent veg oil for over 3 weeks now

[@twocvbloke]

Only time I've seen carbon deposits like that are up a coal fire's chimney, and on my Aladdin paraffin lamp's mantle when the flame goes "spiky" (where it's not burning right and produces yellowy-orange spikes and leaves the carbon deposits on the mantle), which of course all means that there's not enough air to meet the burn requirements of the fuel, but, still, engine oil, not meant to be burned anyway... :S

[@doowey22]

Try mixing DEF in your fuel mixture

[@Refertech101]

and with out rare earth catalysts how do you imagine this will do any thing?

[@vasterasjonas1]

Use some Ad-blue in the wasteoil.

[@DavidMcLuckie]

Ad-blue is for NOx reduction.

[@fonziyo]

perfect example why wornout engines are clogging DPF filters

[@colinhamer6506]

I agree no matter what you do it will not work without constantly cleaning it but I believe that if you take a diesel heater running on diesel to help heat a larger burn chamber burning waste oil that is easily cleaned daily is the way to go

[@fordguy6479]

Has anyone tried pre heating the waste oil? Say 150F?

[@Martins-play-ground]

Can some one translate the audio ? I can't understand the mexican accent. 🤣🤣

[@matthewf1979]

I have seen videos of this formula working in a 4kw model. ~25% alcohol(meth/eth), 75% triple filtered waste oil(progressively finer filters down to 5 micron)and run the heater as hot as it will go. They need to come up to temp on diesel/kerosene, then you switch over to the waste oil mix, then shut it down on diesel/kerosene.

[@1NIGHTMAREGAMER]

adding b12 fuel cleaner in the oil ittle clean up

[@Innov8orRepair]

I wonder if you added a water injection port if the steam would break all that up and clean it out if you ran it really hot?

[@jonathantheunacceptable4259]

Waste motor oil and waste cooking oil are 2 different things lol used cooking oil works, used motor oil not so much as of yet... good luck

[@JimLahey21]

If only you could make the burn chamber spin somehow so it doesn't build up in one spot