Choosing Screws for Woodworking

[@glencrandall7051]

Another drive type is the Torx head. They are becoming very popular. I personally like both the Torx drive and the square drive. You presented some good information here. Perhaps in the future you could expand on the subject by talking about thread types (fine/coarse) and head types (countersunk/others). Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂

[@MaestroPrep]

I was kinda hoping that you would cover the metal types for hard and soft wood.. as well.. Joining vs. Mounting or attaching... stainless vs bronze vs steel vs... etc..

[@villageidiot8718]

As with adhesives, the choice of fastener depends on the application.

[@rhpsoregon]

You should have mentioned brass screws and how soft the metal is. They're more likely to snap before they cam out. But I guess since your sponsor doesn't sell brass screws, that would be a non-starter. So, I suppose I'll have to fill that knowledge gap for your viewers. Brass screws are very soft and you need to take special precautions when using them. Before using them, you need to prepare the holes properly. 1. Flat head and Bugle head screws you first need to drill a countersink or counterbore to accept the tapered head. 2. You then need to drill a straight hole that's large enough to let the unthreaded part of the screw to sit freely within the screw-hole. It allows for wood movement to occur without binding and creating destructive tensions in the wood. 3. You need to drill a smaller diameter that corresponds to the root diameter of the threaded section of the screw. 4. Drive a STEEL screw of the same diameter and length sd your brass screwing into each hole, and then remove it. This prepares the hole for 5. Driving the brass screws without any hassle. An extra tip to help things look totally spiff... Always align the slot or drive holes in the same direction for each screw. This technique is called "clocking your screws". It's the sign of a woodworker who cares enough to make sure even the finest details are given proper attention. And one last BONUS tip. If you find a screw you need is out-of-stock, or that the screws you have are too long, you can still use them. You can use a hacksaw and a file to shorten them to fit the holes. This technique has been used used for centuries in old antiques.

[@bryanr9533]

Where is the link?

[@popularwoodworking]

Fixed, sorry!

[@JarvinMaira]

Thanks for the analysis! Just a quick off-topic question: My OKX wallet holds some USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). What's the best way to send them to Binance?

[@WreckDiver99]

Don't come into my shop....I have flat heads older than you! Heck, they are older than me! I use Robertson (Square), Phillips, Flat, and Torx drive screws. Flat is 100% a homage to my grandfather which is where I got them from (several thousand actually). This is very similar to Drew over at "Fisher's Shop" where every project he does has at least one flat head screw in it.

[@glencrandall7051]

I admire your knowledge and experience. I also admire your methods of teaching. But you do one thing that drives me nuts. That is the use of "pre" as in pre-drill. You are not pre-drilling, you are drilling pilot holes. Pre means before, so then pre-drill means before drill. You even mention in the video that the bit in the fixture is a pilot bit. Therefore you use a pilot bit to drill a pilot hole. If you think about it the prefix "pre" is almost 100% not required. (As in pre-assembled, or pre-mixed, etc)🙂🙂 How is that for a rant. But seriously the use of the term Pre-drill is completely wrong.