Choosing the Right Fly Reel with Kelly Galloup

In this video, Kelly discusses what to look for when purchasing a new fly reel. With advancements in both the casting and machining process, today's modern reels are better than ever and most drags out there will handle just about anything you can throw at them. This video focuses on the subtleties that make a fly reel right for you and why to choose certain styles of spools over others.

[@alpinemind9977]

This guy should make different videos. I've never fly fished in my life but this no bullshit talk is refreshing to watch.

[@patchj3776]

AlpineMind if you’ve never fly fished in your life how do you know he’s not bullshiting

[@rootedrotor525]

He's a Michigan Man - BS don't play in the mitten state

[@oliverprovencher3780]

@@rootedrotor525 no drag in saltwater is the dumbest thing I've ever heard complete bs try catching a tarpon with no drag

[@kitchentrout5867]

"It's $230, it is a great reel and it is cheap." Really puts into perspective the insanity that fly fishing can become.

[@kundetjenesten]

Actually, for a machined reel with one of the most simplistic, bulletproof designs on the market, it IS cheap! I have Guru II in size 2 & 3.5 and a Speedster HD in 3.5. Considering you got reels out there costing 3x that without being able to pinpoint what they do that is worth the extra money (except "bling") I stick to Lamson. All that said, you can get a decent reel for half that sum. But it is all about priorities. I am single, no kids, no mortgage, no big motor interest. So what am I to do with my money? I love fly fishing, so why not? 😉

[@JP-dz7zu]

Orvis sells $250 pliers and $79 clippers. Pretty disgusting!

[@TheMrbeasely]

@@JP-dz7zu "Pretty disgusting". What a ridiculous comment. If people want to buy the products then what's the big deal? You can cook a steak at home, go out to a local chain restaurant and have a steak dinner, or go to a high end restaurant and buy a steak dinner. Each time you're paying more for the steak. It's your choice what you buy.

[@vincefreeride]

You could say the same thing about pretty much everything.. golf clubs ,hockey sticks , cars. Depends on the budget and your intentions

[@anatomicallycorrectmuppets8180]

Lol yes

[@outcastpiper714]

HOT DAMN! a man that is honest, i love it lol. great job

[@donnietriplett1714]

Wow, a fly shop owner that tells the truth about equipment. I am a fan and if I'm ever near the Madison River in South-West Montana I will visit your shop. Thanks for sharing all your fly fishing knowledge.

[@TheSlideinn]

We try to keep it real around here Donnie, and glad you enjoyed the video - John

[@TheSlideinn]

Thanks Donnie, I am not a fan of BS, unless of course I am telling my girl freind why I am late. KG

[@VanDosix]

KisiixkziDonnie Triplett htgh

[@dariuswhite9138]

@@TheSlideinn I just started building split cane fly rod how do u determine the flyline weight for a rod with out buying multiple flyline

[@rowdyhoo]

Seeing your reel backing is akin to seeing the wife’s lingerie. It’s seldom happens and when it does, you are likely getting in over your head. 😳

[@jeffwang6460]

Difference is you usually want the lingerie to come off!

[@bznbrian]

Nailed

[@williamavery9185]

If you handle a reel well you should never see backing!

[@jamesrussell5135]

Other way around

[@screwedagain1]

All I can say is.....I wouldn't wanna be Johnny.

[@Robjmar7]

Appreciate your blunt honesty approach. It's refreshing.

[@geodrew6988]

Kelly, I've been watching your tying videos, great stuff, and just saw this. Right on! I've been fly fishing for over a half century, and you hit the nail on the head. I still fish with my first reel, a 1938 Pflueger, I have new reels and a few pricey reels, but I still like the feel and the sound of the old style. My grandfather was a guide and we learned to fish with bare minimum, "if you can't catch fish on this, you can't catch fish!"

[@fredjunk]

Thanks for your common sense explanation if reels, and all the other fly gear you've done videos on. We all get sucked in to marketing BS, so it's good to have the opinion of a real/reel expert, as opposed to a magazine writer.

[@alannolan7397]

10 out of 10 presentation. I caught my first Atlantic Salmon in Feb 1984 in Ireland and I have had many many epic battles since. It has always amazed me how anglers associate big fish with big drag. It is actually the opposite, if its big let it run and let it run smooth. I could go on and on but once again my compliments to Kelly for telling it exactly like it is. Well done.

[@joesweeney7216]

I'm sorry but for me a $230 reel is not inexpensive. Maybe reletive to what you could spend it is but not for some people.

[@harleydurak8814]

I agree with the both of you

[@harleydurak8814]

When ge said that the $230 reel was cheap i nearly had a heart attack. But when you know that its going tp last a life time its worth it

[@jester6291974]

Harley Durak Especially when you know it’s a lifetime unlimited warranty $0 deductible. Like all Galvan reels. By god I’ve needed my drag on numerous occasions fighting into my backing with 10+lb trout or steelhead. My Lamsons have always had issues. There’s just certain comforts to owning a good quality reel.

[@northeasternfly]

Every few years I watch this video and love it as much as I did the first time.

[@aftermathstudioproductions2230]

the genius of marketing is the ability to make fishing unaffordable.

[@newenglandfb3995]

Q- Ball Pinstriping you know what they say catch the fisherman first the fish second

[@plutoplatters]

" man screwing man " it's what he does best !!!!

[@rossmurphy4593]

One point about what Kelly says about the balance. IMO if the rod + reel with zero line out is perfectly balanced where you grip it then any weight of line you have out can be felt in the hand. This is good feedback for casting accuracy. That's not to say that you couldn't do as well with extra ounces reel side. Maybe even better if the extra weight perfectly balances the line you have out at a given distance, but that is always variable and so the weighted feel when casting would be a bell curve. Heavy at fist, getting lighter, then perfectly balanced then getting tip heavy as you get more line out. If the rod+reel is balanced the load should be felt in a linear curve as you get more line out. Probably boils down to preference and how you learn. But if you have more than one rod/reel combo with different balances then they are going to feel very different. Theory says go balanced and reduce the variables. In practice people can learn to throw anything.

[@rudyruiz9521]

Old video, but still accurate. Personally a HUGE fan of the Orvis cassette reels. They are just fantastic. I agree on the sound too, I can't stand throwing textured lines for that reason.

[@justaguy111]

What’s the name of the pleasant sounding, tall and skinny reel that can be free-spooled? Kelly’s describing it at 8:30.

[@DavidStanleymusic]

you don't need a drag until you hook a 30 lb Atlantic salmon that decides to jump the pool but you are right any more than 8 lbs drag is not needed

[@OhEmGeeGee]

"... $230 dollars and cheap." *Sweats (existential realization that I'm hobby poor)

[@user-qd6jt9sd3h]

relative to $600 reels

[@Imagine2495]

Quality. Thanks for the video

[@niall441]

Loop Evotec 4 g reel. Reel of my dreams! but no click out! so i got rid of the reel, why because i like hearing my reel scream with a 20lb steelhead running off down the river! please don't make reels with no click out. Would you buy silent Harley?

[@brentmaveric4981]

in a way the reel is like a wheel (bicycle) a short 20" where you pedal like hell to get somewhere, or go for the 29" wheel and be there in 6 peddle strokes....done. yes I ride and now fish. oh I want the 29er

[@paratrooper7340]

Finally, somebody talking about fly reels like he knows what he's talking about.

[@for1sekundsedan180]

You only need a very simple reel. Good quality reel and big enough. Thats it. And beware of the big hole in the center of the spool. It's good for nothing. Use that space for extra backing. Go up in size with a standard arbour. A line 4 in a 6 or 7 standard arbour reel will do it for you.

[@screwedagain1]

I love my click and pawl reels on smaller water. The Cortland Rimfly and Pflueger Metalist. Simple...and durable as hell. It's what I started out with many years ago , so there's lots of great memories attached to them. Not that I'm immune to the new large arbor reels. I have one on my 8 wt. for Stripers and Blues. It's pretty much a necessity for big fish making those long runs.

[@metamurph]

this made me think in the beginning when you gave your drop shot talk and said, my dad would go wait you are telling them how to not loose so many flies...that is bad for business :-) buy the basic reel, its a good deal and does the job... ha why are classic Ross reels so much on ebay...they get the job done (and are "mythic") -- love the point on weight in golf this is the swing weight of the club what gives you the feel and what creates the balance is more important than 3oz less...if it isn't then fish more and build those tyrex arms up a bit

[@studogg99]

love my remix the step up from the liquid but so good at the price point. the redington zero is the best click paw reel for $80-$90

[@brentdavenport01]

I enjoyed most of the video, except for a few points. "They don't use grease anymore". Except Tibor (one of the best fly reels available) among others..... Tibor still uses cork drags with grease. The comment about saltwater guys don't need more than around 4# of drag..... I don't know many saltwater guys that would agree with that statement. You might hook a 4# Red, or you might hook an 8# Jack Cravelle that will smoke a 4# drag very easily. This is saltwater. This isn't brook trout measured in ounces. Beyond that, I enjoyed the rest of it. It wasn't your normal run off the mill video.

[@fjellfiskeren7354]

brentdavenport01 and? You need something else for the sea? The only thing you need is alot of backing And your good to go no worries

[@TheEzzieboy]

So when does Johnny get to make an appearance? I use "Johnny's scissors" when I cut wire, and I've never even seen him.

[@HalfInsaneOutdoorGuy]

I've caught hundreds of fish over the last year of fly fishing, not once did I need my reel drag.

[@TheUSAforever1]

Finally somebody who isn't trying to sell a reel because it is capable of catching comets!

[@JAY_SS88]

I've been fishing an Orvis Clearwater 5wt full flex rod with a Bauer reel for over 15 years. Same rod , same reel , cork drag , and I've caught everything from trout to pan fish to bass and pickerel, and I've never had issues with the rod or reel. Crazy high drag pressure isn't needed. Great video and no BS.

[@brycerobinson880]

Hey Kelly I love your channel! One question...when you where talking about price of reels and universally most of them being about the same...230 bucks is fairly expensive for me. My cheap real I was just getting ready to order was an eagle claw ...like 70 bucks. Is that too cheap or do I just risk it and try it? Thanks man keep the videos coming to its really a help to get a knowledgeable and unbiased opinion.

[@TheSlideinn]

Bryce, It will probably be fine. if it is the Black eagle that is a import reel and from what I have seen they hold up pretty well. KG

[@colinwood8558]

That Guru is $140 on ebay right now if you're still thinking about it or need a second one. They just introduced the new model, so shops (and Lamson on their site) are blowing them out.

[@sillllverback]

Do any of these reels or any other fly reels, free spool? I'm currently using a Ross Flow for float fishing. But want to try a fly reel with a Drag

[@plutoplatters]

fly fishing can be very much like the "pompous" Polo crowd .. snooty people that will NOT stand for less.

[@drewjohn6847]

nice vid, we fish for GT"s out on the GBR of Queensland Australia, I've never fished fresh water so can't comment but most gt's we hook up will take over 150mtrs of line and I'm sure just to make me feel like shit, a mate brought a Piscifun 9/10 with a maxcatch 12 rod, total cost about $200 and fished just as well as my $2200 outfit, gotta admit, It didn't feel great lol..

[@willyboyw.5771]

It sounds like Johnny is the shop Whippin' boy.

[@leeaddison9615]

You otta look at Qualifly out of New Mexico. Try'em out and do a review. Pretty sure you'll love'em. Been using them for several years now. Love'em, great construction, drag and they are really tight. Price point is great as well. Give'em a try. Check out the "RazorBack"

[@mccraestephens367]

Definitely need drag for saltwater

[@rabbit5717]

I too do not like light reels. They usually always create an unbalanced rod so because I have 19 fly rods with about 16 reels, I will take one of the reels that I want to have balanced on my rod 9,10,10 1/2 foot and keep changing reels until one balances the rod, I always weigh that real and then make note of it for that particular rod just in case I want to buy another real with the approximate weight or to switch it with a real that I already have with the approximate weight

[@johnmccallum7844]

Been needing to change a reel and came here for the no bs commentary. Agree with a lot, smooth drag most important thing especially being able to rely on consistent change up and down. Yep too much can send the fish off on a goose chase. But 5, 6 pound tension and light drag? Kelly I wonder if you have fished in New Zealand since you did this. And if that might have changed your mind

[@MrRourk]

You can score old Martin Reels of eBay for $10 to $15 if you shop.

[@rickhambric9737]

Just gimme a Tibor. I’m still Rocking an Everglades and riptide for over 20yrs, I’ll end up giving them to my grandkids in the will

[@rcflyer7788]

Excellent “NO B.S.” information.

[@randylugo3848]

I dont care how well know you might be in the fly fishing community, but if someone uses you in the place of Jesus, is best if you say something about to change that. Very offensive.

[@sdbassin1143]

😎PRO TIP✅ Fish don’t care what gear you’re using. Literally does not matter.

[@dsmith2601]

Spot on but so typical … calls out the fact drag isn’t required for trout and yet not a single click-pawl reel on the table amongst a bunch of unnecessary sealed drag reels!

[@taliesinangling3564]

I saw my backing when I caught a king salmon, I was using a five weight rod.

[@regularSenseAppeal]

Expensive fly reels are basically like jewelry or expensive watches. Utterly pointless to spend big on yet nice to have and use.

[@j.lebowski3917]

Reels are overpriced line holders. Just like how rods are overpriced pointers. Invest your money in fly lines, leaders, and flies.

[@ultraman1red]

You sir are right on the money! Great segment!

[@theoutdoordad7395]

Love your videos. Great advice on small trout reels, thanks! After seeing cast molded reels break, I have a hard time trusting them. I do agree that extra cost on high end reels is aesthetics and maybe a little extra performance for stopping salt water monsters.

[@rogerfranz1152]

Would using no fly line backing be better for narrow reel to allow for more space if your using a floating line?

[@ethanolfeed1975]

I’ve been going out to Montana in July the last two years and have been driving past your shop everyday going from West Fork Campground to West Yellowstone. I’ll have to stop by the shop when I go this year!

[@kevin-pk6hd]

Well I learned something new, picking up line fast like that isn't something I have ever seen

[@dougwebster8868]

Very good video. One problem, not Kelly's fault is the fact that American manufacturing is becoming too expensive. To complete we have to have the Chinese make our products. That is the consumers fault. I will always buy things made any place other than China when possible. I have paid 10 times the price for American made. I am certainly not a rich person, but I can't willingly buy from people who are out to destroy us.

[@mancooutwest44]

They screwed up the new Ross Animas reel. Only spins 2-3 times around when trying to pick up slack quick. When I am picking up the line my old Animas it will take in all my excess line with a few quick slaps to the reel. Sad change. Also I HATE how hard it is to get the spool off. Just about ruined mine trying to get it apart. That is how it was from day one. I have never had a problem with my old animas push button. Super smooth to release spool nice and tight. Only thing they did right in my opinion was a slightly heavier drag (which I have never needed even with 20+” rainbows) and a taller spool for quicker line pickup. Oh well at least I have a couple of the old Animas reels. Wish I bought a third before it was too late.

[@ProbablySkunked]

I know this video is old as shit, but still obviously very relevant. What rod and reel are you fishing these days Young Man?

[@Piedscooter1]

All opinions are subjective. Here's my opinion. The Orvis CFO reels that came out in the late 70's are unsurpassed for Pennsylvania trout and smallmouth bass - which are what I fish for. The "MADE IN ENGLAND" CFO's in CFO 2 (for three weight trico rods), CFO 3 (for four and five weight rods), and CFO 4 (for five, six, and seven weight rods) have yet to be beat. And trust me, fly shop operators have flashed shiny key reels in front of me and I have risen and taken them home and tried them. I no longer buy reels.

[@BryceHasquet]

What do you think about some of the lesser know small company reels that go for cheap and claim to be fully machined with a sealed drag? For example this reel: www.qualiflyproducts.com/store/the-maverick-semi-frame-fly-reel vs the lamson liquid or Allen trout II?

[@lastcoyote2355]

Interesting… I have found just the opposite . Seems I’ve noticed that the fish seem to head up stream . Years ago I found that I only adjust my drag with a scale …. Example : if I have a 3 # tippet I set my drag at no more than 1.5 # . For me that seems to have worked for me . Different schools of thought …… as long as it’s not a religious school .😂😂😂😇😇😂😂😂

[@gmcenroe]

Hi Kelly, I was a fly fisherman when I was a teenager in the early 70s. Now I am close to retirement and dug up my old flyrod that I used to fish for steelhead and trout. It is a Fenwick Feralite FF85 8 1/2' 4 1/8oz rod with serial number H 68367. I still have the plaid sock and aluminum scew cap tube for it. Mine does not say line weight 7-8-9 on it like others I have seen in pictures. I want to use it for trout fishing and larger trout species. What weight reel would you recommend and would this work with 7 wt line for dry fly fishing in smaller streams? I really enjoy your videos, brings back memories and I look forward to fly fishing again.

[@TheSlideinn]

Glenn, have to figure out what company you are looking at first, they all have different numbers for the size of the reel,not like a rod that says 4, 5 or 6, but if you go inline and look at the reels you will see the reel specs and it will tell you approximately which reel is for what line with how much backing it will hold. thanks for watching, Kelly

[@gmcenroe]

Thanks, I like the Lamson speedster 3 reel with 7 weight line, but I will go look at the reels, I might not like the sound it makes :-). Thanks for you advice Kelly

[@andrewbragdon4942]

I love this video, just like all the others of yours that I’ve watched - so educational and sensible. I’m trying to make sure I get the point about how the click and pawl reel’s lack of drag keeps the fish from taking off downriver. Are you saying that, in the absence of drag, the current pushing the line downstream keeps the fish from sensing it’s being pulled upstream and therefore stays put or heads upstream? Do you them fight it from below? Fishing with a 9 wt rod and a Lamson Konic reel with the drag set moderately on, I’ve experienced mature Atlantic salmon taking off downriver into the backing on occasion. My guide has never suggested a different way to set the drag that might reduce the odds of this happening or suggested a different type of reel.

[@garytotty3971]

about twenty years ago, I came to the simple conclusion that for 80% of my fishing the only thing a reel does is hold the line. On the otherhand I love using two and three weights for pan fish. Like big red ear. I use an old J. Ryall because I can control the load on the tippet and there is no hard breakaway. Yet I also fish for some big stuff, and honestly I can't ever remember a fish even slightly getting close to the backing. Perhaps a tiger musky or big northern. There you learn to play the drag, but only after the hook up. I still don't use an expensive reel, but chose capacity.

[@1rnaple]

I've quickly grown to respect your opinions. I also confess I don't fish a ton. Like you and your guides do. On this...may I humbly offer a different view? I enjoy casting. I'm not a performance person. I'm more of a dance with the cast person. People have complimented me on my casting. I tell them it's only because I really enjoy it. It shows. I recently bought a rod I really love. It has tons of feel. Extremely accurate. It's a fishing rod. I tried it out with my reel. Then worked with it a little. Think my reel was a little big. It was getting in the way of the rod's feel. Added torque to my casting. So I went and bought a lighter reel. ... I admit, partially influenced by your advise. I avoided the glitzy ritzy expensive reels. This is not a new reel on the market. Bought it much cheaper. Avoided dropping too much money on one. It was marked down. Some advertising it was on close out. I've had guys advise I might have done better in the used market? Also get guys telling me my rod deserves better aesthetics in a reel. I didn't buy my rod for aesthetics. Didn't buy it for performance. Bought it because it's a beautifully feeling, working, fishing rod. I could have spent on the rod. Spent only half of what the most expensive ones do. I also admit. It's expensive making reels the way some of them do. That's just not for me. Not needed.

[@Charactermatters650]

Just bought: $114.00 for the Lampson liquid with 2 spare spools and case. Call it entry level or whatever, I will catch craploads of fish both fresh and salt and will fish it till I die. No sense spending tons any more - to a degree, the same with rods.

[@jdu6]

Hey Kelly,I want to learn how to fly fish with my son..what type of reel and rod should I choose

[@blakeboyle5526]

Can't go wrong with a orvis kit

[@FCSAPsalms]

Kelly, you are only saying what after fifty years of trout and salmon fishing I learned long ago: most fishing tackle is not made to catch fish, but to catch fishermen. The one thing I don't agree with you about is that today's reels are better than ever. At the cheap end they are, but not at the top. I'll stick with my old school click check Hardys and J. W. Youngs with not a drag in sight.

[@caseylrand]

This is my 13th time watching this video.

[@rtreadwell7887]

Strange how, 40 years ago, in the era of cane and glass, reels were designed to be super light. Now, we have featherweight carbongraphite rods, but reels weigh twice as much. Also, as a river/still water trout angler,, I so much prefer clickers. They've stood the test of time for 100 years, are generally bomb proof, light, inexpensive and provide all you need, so long as the reel has an exposed rim for palming - and try stripping line off a reel with a tightened-down drag! To me, as a crotchety old fogie, the modern reel is mostly about fashion and fad. Now, where's my spliced greenheart rod?

[@bonnivilleblackcherry9745]

3 yrs later $37 chinese reels are at par to $500 reels when you made this video lol. I sold my 4-5 $$$ reels and bought 2 rifles and a 1/2 dozen $37-$52 reels... not disappointed one bit and I do not notice any difference in the performance.

[@johnbeatty4695]

Blah Blah Blah this video could have been two minutes long and got the message across.

[@kenharp]

The guy has probably forgotten more about fly fishing than I will ever know, from a logic perspective though, wouldn't having drag be the source of resistance and make the fish move back toward you if it is truly seeking the path of lest resistance? Maybe I am missing something or misunderstood something, please educate me if you see where I am off base.

[@joeditz48]

When he said you don't need 100yds of backing I clicked off... you need around 200yds for bonefish. Also you NEED a lot of drag for these fish because of how far and fast they sprint. I wish he prefaced this video that he is only speaking of freshwater

[@wolverinex4243]

This is the best no-nonesense. This is what YT should be about but there's too many fakes on the Tube.

[@russellowen4543]

How about the Cabela's Wind River series reels??? Pretty inexpensive but very functional. I have one on my TFO TiCr 6wt rod loaded with SA 7.5wt line.

[@johnholmes4960]

I found four fly reels on line that are totally fabulous. Superior quality. Thirty bucks each. The reel is only a bucket to keep your line organized in one place. Put your money in the fly line. Your line is like great ammo. Crappy ammo in an expensive new gun, is still cheap ammo, but when you get superior have superior ammo, in a cheap gun, you still have good ammo. .

[@steveevans424]

LOOP brand ..model is XACT >> they are plastic compost built like a Glock and low priced ..."winks"

[@rickb5575]

Can someone help me, I have a Fenwick FF858 8.6’ 4 1/8oz Rod! What would be a good reel for it? Mainly bass fishing here

[@stillwater62]

What a freaking breath of free air this video was. Mr. Galloup was not afraid to say it like it really is. Where else are you going to find this kind of frank talk? Almost every fishing channel`s host is a salesman slobbering over the latest greatest glitzy shinny object his sponsor is selling, or hoping to get an endorsement from a company, or corporation for pushing their product.

[@outcastpiper714]

Great video, i can watch them all day, have a great day Kelly

[@edithturbull8714]

this first that I have came a cross you dont half speak the truth when you were talking about drags on reels and what the old man told you think of all fish people got years ago before reels went drag crazy no bull shit from you I like that as you wonder were you money goes now on fly reels when you get spinning reels with all the differt moving parts 3 and 4 times cheaper than fly reels you would think it would be the other way round with high end fly reels have less than 10 parts get sick of paying £400 plus on reels when everyone knows the pam of you hand is the best drag of them all so if they fly reels came exposed rim you could save a good bit of money thanks for up loading your videos

[@saxon6749]

I'm late to the party here, but this guy needs to make more videos. He's phenomenal.

[@joem8875]

“This guy” lol yeah just some trout bum, who is this guy?

[@saxon6749]

@@joem8875 :)

[@willyboyw.5771]

Good comment on the backing. Just how much backing do I need for a 3/4 or 5/6 reel? Over 30 years fishing, I have never seen my backing unless I am changing out fly line. Is 25-30 yards okay?

[@cormacmccarthy1559]

Oh my goodness! I have all of these fly reels and I have a Pfluger Medalist in a 7/8 that I could use on my 5/6 rods and it would be everything!💡

[@FLYSHOPBRASIL]

Yes, that´s all true, now try to tell that so some beginner who has been told by his friends that he needs 100 meters of backing for a 4 weight line. What you are saying maybe will be used in year 2030....

[@DanieHattingh]

I spend a few extra bucks on a spinning reel but my favorite fly reel is also my cheapest. It's quiet and smooth and so simple. I landed a really big foul hooked catfish on it. Never really used the drag, mostly fingers on the spool.

[@seanearnest]

I got a little confused at the end when Kelly spoke about 3 and 4wt reels. Am I understanding correctly that he prefers, say, a 6wt reel for a 5wt line? I am trying to find the right reel for a trout spey setup so I am looking at large arbor, wide spool reels capable of storing fatter shooting heads and running line, and as I understand it, for a 2 or 3wt trout spey rod that equates to about a 5/6wt single hander, and thus a reel designed for 5/6wt line. In that case using his +1 bump system, would Kelly go for a 7wt reel for use on a 2/3wt trout spey setup? Thanks to all the experts out there for the guidance!

[@quickplaya]

Amazing video! I'm not sure if you check these comments still.. but I need some help and you seem like the most knowledgeable oldtimer I know on the internet. (no offense on the old timer thing). I have two setups. One is a 5wt rod with a 4wt LL bean Quest #1 reel and 4wt DT line. I have noticed my fly line gets wrapped around my reel knob and my line has loops in it when I reel the line in sometimes preventing me from reeling in. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Is it something I am doing or should I get a taller skinnier reel? Thanks in advanced! Oh.. I wade for brown trout 10-15" along the Pere Marquette river in Michigan. If that makes a difference lol

[@ericflack8039]

Damn, that was a 12 min Master Class. I was looking to buy a reel for my brothers old 5wt...This definitely helped cut through the BS...Thanks!

[@wespuckdog3897]

I buy nothing but Ross because about 15 years ago I dropped one 40' off a bridge and totally ruined the reel, I sent it in to Ross to get it repaired and they sent me a new reel and no cost.

[@fuciledacaccia]

I am not a good fly fisherman, but I love it, and I couldn't agree with you more. I have Orvis, Fenwick, Sage rods, and Cortland, Orvis, and Daiwa, and many inexpensive reels and I can't tell the difference!!

[@jaredtandle2596]

As someone who used to buy/sell things on fractions of the metric system.. I can tell the weight of at least a 1/4 oz difference

[@adventureswithfrodo2721]

The only thing I use the drag for is tighten it up when I walk through the brush to keep my line from snagging because the line flops loose and snags on the brush. Then I just loosen it up when I get to a new pool.

[@TheSlideinn]

Bryce, Most of them are really quite good. A good deal of the reels you see on the market are imports and sold under a lot of different names, they are almost all Chinese or Korean imports and because they are sold under so many different company names and made over seas they are cheaper and yet many are really good. Flip a Sage reel over and you will see it is a Korean reel, don't think they would put their name on the reel if it was junk. bottom line is there are some really great cheap reels out there and nowadays it is not necessary to spend a ton to get good quality

[@stephenjackowski8773]

Very informative. Im new to fly fishing and am looking to get a 10ft 4 wt for trout fishing and I am trying to decide what reel to get. Lamson liquid is at the top but am unsure if I should go with the -3+ or the -5+. I fish small streams to larger rivers.

[@daviddenis1295]

I think the only time reels come into play is when you get into big blue water fish like marlin and sailfish. Almost any other time it’s just to hold your line.

[@zacharyschultz9451]

I’ve agreed with everything you’ve said out of all the videos I’ve seen and listened to. I’ve also learned a great deal as well. I’m thinking about seriously getting into fly fishing. I’m from Michigan too and live to fish, I just don’t care to post pictures or let anyone know about it like most anglers nowadays. Anyways, is there a limit on what type of species you can effectively/practically target. I take my saltwater fishing as seriously as I’m able to, without being divorced and I’m confused in regards to your ideas on drag pressure in saltwater. I can say without any doubts, that some of those fish can only be stopped with heavy drag pressure. I don’t know if I’m understanding what you said wrong or what, and I don’t mean to stir the pot… I just know that some saltwater fish will literally just go and go and the only thing that will stop them is heavy drag. You can hook someone up by the belt with line attached to a big game reel and have that person walk at ease under a couple pounds of drag, they’d be able to walk all day. Push the drag forward and ask that person how long they could keep trying to move forward, as they’re clawing at the ground and lunging to gain just a few feet.. answer is some of those saltwater fish are just that badass and will simply spool you. I had to realize a few years ago, it’s not about how much line capacity you have it’s how much drag pressure you can put on the fish, obviously in line with what your gear and line is capable of. Those fish don’t just notice they are hooked, then freak out making a mad dash while you wait to just drag them in after they’ve exhausted themselves. It’s more like all of that in the beginning of the fight, minus the fact that they don’t stop… but rather they reach a point where they are still moving fast but pacing themselves almost, and they simply do not stop. So, this is way more long winded than I wanted it to be and I’m not much of a writer. Back to my original question. Does the drag pressure not matter with a fly reel because some species are off limits, or are you just assuming people would be in a boat and not chasing saltwater fish in deep water that can spool you going down? And seriously, I’ve always been around fly fishing my entire life but never wanted to get into it for a few reasons but after watching and listening to you talk it was more appealing. Unlike the guys I see on the Pere Marquette chucking lead back and forth with a triple fly rig to half dead salmon in 8 inches of water. Seriously, most of these guys look like they walked right out of an orvis catalog, and they look at me going by them on the bank or on my drift boat like I’m some low class person or unethical because I have a spinning reel. It’s unreal, not saying all but a lot of them. And I just don’t get along with anyone that got into fishing by only just fly fishing. It’s like there’s a damn disconnect on what’s actually effective, versus doing something just because of trying to stay in the fly fishing lane. I never cared about anything other than what the most effective way is to catch the fish. I don’t know if what I’m trying to say makes sense but back here in Michigan more and more people I see that fly fish are just swatting the water whether it’s some low life in the city on the Grand River or a dude with a feather in his hat on the fly’s only stretch on the PM. I know there’s real fly fisherman all over it’s just there’s a lot of clowns that first get into fishing of all ages and they get into fly fishing and it’s almost like they sign themselves off to learning nothing other than showing up to salmon camp every year to strip their line out to a measured length and then start plopping shit into the River…

[@kellysmith4555]

Very good job young man helps me a lot I'll be by your shop to get some this spring Kelly Smith Baker Mt

[@jackallen7557]

I am trying to buy a reel for a 5 wt rod that I am giving to my mom for a trout 5 wt while in Colorado and a small mouth bass rod in the fall, what would be the best reel that will not break the bank in your opinion.

[@TheSlideinn]

Another option would be the Lamson Remix, great reel for the money. KG

[@richarde1355]

Solid video, and the discussion is pretty darn refreshing, but I have a couple of rebuttals or points... Harry Lemire and his crew also liked gear and pawl reels for the simplicity; they are reliable and hardly anything to fail. Those systems just work, Even the ‘sealed’ drags of very expensive reels allow water intrusion, which eventually can cause operational issues. Great to have a lifetime warranty, but that doesn’t do much good when your reel fails on a trip or it’s in the shop. Also, Kelly at 5:45 says the Liquid as ‘the same drag’ (he means compared to the other more expensive Lamson, I believe a Speedster, he had just held up as a super light reel). The lesser expensive Lamson reels have the same STYLE of drag as their more expensive siblings, but not the same drag. I bought, literally, into that marketing prose and bought a Liquid for my 8 weight. Used a short time, it’s gone out of my inventory. Minimal drag adjustment, ramped up quickly, sticky startup - not even close to the performance of my other more pricey Lamson reels. For trout I appreciate the simplicity, which also translates to lightness, of some of my older gear and pawl reels. I’m fortunate to have acquired some nice ones over the years - Sage 500 (Hardy made) series, Orvis CFO, Ross Colorado series. I have done vintage Heddon 300 series reels, knockoffs of Hardy reels, that work fine. Gone the high tech route, but have come full circle back to keeping it ‘reel’ and opting for simplicity. For salt, different story. Reliability and imperviousness to elements is huge. For bonefish, I don’t need a reel that generates 18 pounds of drag - I need maybe three, enough that it applies s wee bit of pressure and, most importantly, the reel doesn’t overrun when the fish takes off. And, the drag needs to engage smoothly. Need more pressure? Palm the spool. Pretty similar comments to big salty fish, but I do want a sturdy frame reel with a stout reliable drag. I guess the consistent word through all this is “reliability”. We all want stuff that works, whether one is a guide putting in 250 days per year or some who gets out once a year. I don’t want my waders or my jacket to leak, I want my floating line to float, I want my sink tip kind to turn over without hinging, I want my rod to make good loops and deliver the fly to where I speed up and stop the rod, I want a fly that swims or floats properly, a sharp hook to penetrate the fish’s mouth, and a reel that is reliable and doesn’t fail. Thanks Kelly for a solid video.