Fula-Bed - Fulament - 3D Printer Bed Upgrade - Chris's Basement

[@jrucker2004]

This perfectly illustrates one of the biggest problems I see in the 3d printing industry: People making/doing things they don't really understand. 6061 is extruded, and warps when it's machined and/or heated. It may not be by much, but it absolutely does. (I wish you would have done the same test with your indicator when the bed was heated) ATP (Cast aluminum plate) is a much better material for this application. In fact, it's a pretty standard material in the manufacturing industry when doing things that require something stable and repeatable (like a fixture plate). It's stress relieved so that it won't warp when machined or when it goes through temp cycles. I can only assume the manufacturer chose 6061 because it was cheaper or they simply weren't aware of the material properties.

[@TalkingGIJoe]

IMHO... you summed up the entire 3d printing community. Many to most are clueless about almost every aspect of these systems as evidenced by the lack of understanding about the basics of electronics, programming or adjusting and maintaining mechanical systems. Not everyone, but I believe a majority.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for your input!

[@Deluxa801]

If someone use word "assume" I know exactly what this is about. :P Aluminum Tooling Plate (ATP) knows everyone who moves in industry and mass production. This includes also 3D printing industry. In fact its a "aluminum-magnesium" alloy, thats why it has consistent mechanical properties and dimensional stability characteristics. I saw exactly this type of material on a 4.5m high portal food package plant. Well know in plastic injection mold. Want to compare used materials for hobby printers and machine which costs 2.5 mil. euros? You can try to buy somewhere this kind of plate and make it heated bed. Then let us all know exactly where you bought it and how much it cost....

[@waskito3443]

I don't think you've ever tried to buy cast aluminum plate

[@Deluxa801]

@@waskito3443 ya :D provide some source for cast ATP where you can buy it in small quantities. I'll let myself be suprised...

[@Old_Maker_Dave]

Thanks for the shout out Chris. If I can help out again in the future, let me know. The studio looks great!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks!

[@dannelson8556]

back reviewing this video after having used a Fullabed For over a year now and very happy with it. again what he fails to mention when he compares the two beds is the magnetic sheet on top of the stock bed or the glass build plate that comes stock. The stock glass build plate weighs substantially more than the Fulllabed. I easily print at 3K acceleration using klipper and resonance tuning. I've removed the stock plate and used a silicone heater on the bottom of my Fullabed And I'm very happy with it. I can finally print very large objects without having issues with warped beds.

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad its been working for you.

[@woodwaker1]

A very interesting product, as you said would be much better for an Ender 5 or 5 Plus if they have that size. I use a glass plate over the stock bed which I find to be very flat and have had good results

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Dave, I think they're working on it.

[@markferrick10]

Thanks Chris. Interesting product. You new basement looks great.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you!

[@TalkingGIJoe]

Thanks for sharing your thoughts...

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for watching

[@bruceyoung1343]

I came back to you review. I just got my fulaflex 2.0 bed. I don’t know why I waited so long No more stick glue , razor blades, paper towels, and windex/ISA

[@ChrisRiley]

I'm glad you like it!

[@BLBlackDragon]

My one problem with my E3P is that the bed warped ever so slightly when I tried pushing the temp to 100C (was printing ABS). Going from a stock 3 mil bed to a 5 mil bed is exactly what I would like to do to prevent bed warping at full temp. Need to watch these folks. If they offer a drop-in replacement (with the integrated heater), I'd buy it in a second.

[@ChrisRiley]

👍😁

[@foureight84]

Chris, will you do an update video on how this bed has performed so far? I'm curious to see the effects of thermal expansion on this bed given that it's not cast aluminum.

[@ChrisRiley]

I'll look into it. Thanks for the suggestion.

[@VectorRoll]

I've been thinking about purchasing one of their beds for a while. In particular the larger one for the Sidewinder as I think it is the same size as the one on my tenlog tl-d3 IDEX printer. It's bed is not the best so I definitely want to upgrade it. Only thing that has stopped me so far is the price as I'd have to get the silicone heater for it as well which makes it cost almost $170+ if I remember correctly. Never thought of using the bed on top of the existing bed though. I may try that but at that size it is a lot of weight as you mentioned. I don't tend to print fast on my printers, especially that one so it may be worth trying. I do love their double sided flex plates though. That is why I usually end up getting one for each of my printers so far over any others put their. Was going to purchase one for my kossel mini as well this weekend but they were sold out, so have to wait for that.

[@ameliabuns4058]

Why do things cost money it's unfair! I wanna buy so many printer parts but I'm broke :p

[@ChrisRiley]

😁👍

[@KanielD]

This is the review we needed!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you!

[@dannelson8556]

You forgot to add in the weight of the magnet when you weigh the ender three bed. Those magnetic sheets weigh upwards of 300 g So you take the stock bed at 427 g add in a 300 g magnetic sheet. And now you're up to 727g I mean you do have to compare apples to apples and the Fula-bed does come with magnets pre-installed so it's only fair to compare it to a stock ender bed with a flat flexible magnet sticker on it. Add the PEI sheet on top of it and your right back up into kilogram territory. The fula bed is going to come out slightly heavier by the time you add a silicone heater to it which weigh about 190 g. In my opinion well worth the trade-off for surface flatness.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for your insight

[@brandonknight8671]

could you reduce weight by using a silicone heater powered by mains? It would eliminate the need for the original bed plate

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks, good idea

[@TeamGreenGorilla]

Your awesome Chris. 2 pieces of constructive criticism. 1. Microphone/sound is very tin can-ish. Can we donate you a better mic? Or some more stuff on the walls may help. New studio is a bit hollowed. But looks good. 2. The top layer on your intro logo... is not monotonic. 😜 Keep it up brother. Always enjoy you content. Edit: sorry for typos. Phone keyboard has interesting output sometimes.

[@ChrisRiley]

Ha! Thanks!

[@Akegata42]

It would have been interesting to see the flatness of the stock beds.

[@MrHristoB]

there's no such thing "the flatness of the stock beds" in cheap chinese beds, I've three, all deform when heated. And simply because are cut out of rolled sheets with dubious quality. Take for example wood or diamond cutting disks, they all have relief cuts to counteract thermal expansion. Same applies here. Just a simple example of manufacturing under commercial pressure. That's why Prusa still makes PCB beds with embedded magnets rather than aluminium beds and high end manufacturers are using thick machined beds from a cast billet. jrucker2004's comment above is spot on

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks!

[@deeareus9886]

😊))) my husband always is joking, saying fulament instead of filament😊))

[@ChrisRiley]

😁👍

[@MrHristoB]

This is what happens when you launch a product under commercial pressure, just to get it out there... ready or not, whatever it takes. "Let's get it out a heated bed but will think of the heating it later, as long as it's out there" And Chris, I loved the old basement, this one looks too tidy and weird...

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you!

[@Protocol-X]

Is this cast aluminum?

[@crawlerin]

According to Wikipedia, no. It's extruded.

[@ChrisRiley]

👍

[@HackMonkey]

Yikes. Price is steep, but not a total deal breaker. However, about everything else is. The mounting isn't good, still chance of warping or shifting. Heating is a real problem. But that weight! Absolutely not for a bed slinger! This makes the MK52 bed Printed Solid sells for $95 look like a bargain, it includes heating traces, thermistor, bolts, tape, and isn't metal. I don't have one loose, but am very curious now how much less the MK52 PCB plate weighs in comparison??

[@crawlerin]

You can get high quality cast aluminum bed from Mandala Rose Works in the US, for example comparable size 250x250 with magnets is 145 USD (79 without magnets). Their beds are highly regarded in DIY printer communities. Granted you still need heater and SSR and thermal fuse etc on top of that. You are right, while resonance compensation (Input Shaper) can do some magic, its weight is really not ideal for bedflingers.

[@MrHristoB]

Totally agree.. Looks like someone decided, let's do a Mk52 but from aluminium.. and yes, the heater comes separately, if you can find yourself one that fits...

[@ChrisRiley]

I think they're still ironing out the kinks

[@crawlerin]

@@ChrisRiley Great, if they can offer better alternative to notoriously taco/bowl Ender beds, all the better. Weight may still be a concern, especially at bugger sizes.

[@crawlerin]

@@MrHristoB Keenovo offers heaters of all common sizes, and they can make custom for you too.

[@JohnSmith-mk8hz]

I see what the advantage is.......but I don't see 95% of 3d printing hobbyists needing that advantage, especially at the price and weight cost. Seems like another solution for a problem that doesn't really exist.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for your input!

[@backgammonbacon]

Stick a Pei sheet to a glass bed and save yourself a hundred $.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for watching

[@barenekid9695]

Frankly.. it seems as yet another... 'solution' in search of a problem. Hopefully these guys didn't give up their Day jobs.

[@ChrisRiley]

They're just starting out, more to come!

[@kazolar]

That price for 6061 -- not mic6? If you're gonna stick a 1kg of extra aluminum on a bed slinger at least use the right material. Good review -- this is doa product. Can't heat treat 6061 to prevent it from deforming funny at temperature. Was there a problem with high temp magnetic stickers? A good one goes up to 150c, what is the point of this. Also buldtack did the epoxied magnets before on their garolite sticker mag beds, and I've had them fall out, and adhesive fail. If anyone ever does magnets on the back of the bed, they should be the screw in variety, not epoxied. .

[@tclemens96]

Ya my wam bam ones work just fine. But I think this is more of a for flatness (at which point bolting it to the old warped bed probably shouldn't be done). But as far as the t6-6061 vs mic6 at 5mm thick and the sizes of the current plates it's probably fine for bed Temps (Considering the heat treatment for t6 is around 500c).

[@ChrisRiley]

👍

[@jordanfunk661]

$140 + cost of SSR for 120vac 👎👎👎 might as well adapt a smaller mk52 bed from printed solid

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for your input!

[@jasonwoody8041]

Nope. No way on a bed slinger. I got a mic 6 bed in 350x350 for $60. Flatter and way bigger.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for your input!

[@peppe15]

These beds are too expensive. I would rather buy another printer with a better bed.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks!

[@waskito3443]

I was thinking the same thing, at that point I could sell my sidewinder for 300-350$ and just put it down towards a cartesian style printer