Hello, I'm following along your video with ease! however, I cannot for the life of me figure out which board to copy and paste into the board section. I have an ender 3 v3 SE. Ive found the section for creality boards under the core file (STM32F103), but theres several listed under that same number. Not sure which one to pick.

Change out the dang lead screws! I am.

Chris, Thanks for this video! I bought this board a little over 4 years ago, and it got stuck in a box and forgot about. In the mean time the SD card decided to leave me, never to be seen again. I tried to update the firmware, but was missing all the important files. This video worked like a charm, had me up and running in minutes after watching it!!!!!

Thank you for this very good video. I just bought this camera and i am waiting for it to arrive. I have had quite few IP-cameras before, the most recent was SJCam c100+. I just wanted to have a camera, wireless, to monitor my printing from an other room where the printer is. And i don´t like to use my phone to do that. For me, a phone is only for calling someone. And of course, all apps that i have managed to work, are Android only. I have spent hours and hours to get the previous cameras to work with windows, even with android emulator " Bluestack ", but i have not got them to work with windows. Then i stumbled on a website that sells 3D printers and everything related, sold this, Mintion Beagle V2-camera and found out it works in a browser too. So i bought it immediately ( wish i found it earlier). I have Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo printer so this camera is compatible with it. Your video and review was spot on for me to see how to connect it and so on. I´m not so eager to control my printer remotely, just wan´t to monitor it when the print takes hours. Thank you again.

Just set this up myself. Anyone else have an issue with settings not saving after reboot? Always returns to default settings.

what if it crashed in the back? I watched the video after it happened, and I don't understand the consequences. Is there any reason to be worried or should I do something, etc.?

I just wanted to know about print times

Just want you to know that even after your video being 5 years old it is still helping people. Not just with the display but how you explain getting around VSCode and other aspects of configuring the display and board. By the way, where can I find that cable you used with the 5 pin connector? I bought this printer from someone and that cable is missing. I have looked online but not sure what to get.

problem: i have ratos... and there is no mcu section on printer.cfg... (vmineon)

web interface not opining how can i fix it

Thanks for providing this content, very much appreciated! You have really helped me to progress along at a rapid pace. Keep the videos coming, finding them very helpful! The demand for 3d printers seems to be skyrocketing these days; every home and shop should have one. Once one has a decent FDM printer the next step in order to get full use out of the printer is to become proficient with a CAD program. Fusion360 seems to be the best program to learn. I love the fact that they offer the hobbyist license.

Great video. Just the stuff I have been eating up these days. I started getting serious with Fusion360 this past summer with my ultimate goal to become proficient using it for making custom 3d printed parts. I had installed Fusion360 a few years ago but did not really sit down and begin to learn it until last year. It takes a bit of time to get comfortable enough to get around at a a fairly fast pace, but within a couple days of just sitting down with KZbin tutorials from yourself and others I felt like I was becoming proficient at a fairly fast pace. I also bought a full online license for Solid Works that ran around $40 or less last summer but have remained focused on Fusion360 since I find the interface friendlier to get around in. I have the hobbyist license for Fusion360 which for the most part does not seem to limit be by very much, I am actually not even aware of what tools are lost in a full version vs hobbyist version, the only thing I am aware of is limited number of files in my online storage que. I think the demand for these types of tutorials is quite high these days. Keep the great content coming! I did end up installing the Gridfinity plug in for Fusion a couple months ago and would like to learn some of the core principles at a higher level for using Gridfinity, I can get around and make various items but would love to see some basic core concepts discussed. Are there any other plug ins which you would recommend for Fusion as it applies to using it for FDM 3d printing? Thanks for sharing this content, very much appreciated! I think the hardest concept or rule to lock in head is the whole use of constraints while using Fusion, in the beginning this was the first hurdle I had to tackle head on. It takes lots of use to get more proficient with this. I find that doing some practice lessons and tutorials is very beneficial. Features like importing images and scaling a known distance in the image is an extremely useful tool. I am sure there are many ways one could use the photo import option to speed up custom prints and tools that go with it that I am not even aware of yet. The types of items I frequently 3d print and find that I use Fusion for: 1. Electronic enclosures/Computer enclosures for PC/Arduino/Raspberry Pi and electrical projects 2. I find that I frequently use it for my number one purpose, making tons of storage for my hobby work space and other spaces around the house and garage. Gridfinity is an amazing storage system that I absolutely love. I am also exploring some of the other similar systems folks have been adding. 3. RC Plane, car and boat. 4. Accessories for the truck or car. I have printed many direct replacements 5. Signs, in recent months been doing some custom multi-color signs for use around my shop. 6. Electronic drawings and engineering drawings. Periodically, I do piping schematics for steam and process piping. Are there any plug ins that you are aware of for this type of use? Sent you some coffees, much appreciated!

Good video as usual, Chris! My ONLY comment is that I have been burned designing/sketching a functional part using the part I am removing or replacing. I think it would have been better (and more efficent) to measure the distance of the mounting holes on the printer rather than using the board that you pulled out. Also, examining the printer (or device you are designing for) may lead you to an even better product or solution than the original. A very slight change that has served me well in my many years of 3D design and printing. Keep up the good work!

Thinking about this upgrade, but dont know how to run a mosquito hotend with a pt1000 thermister. Is there a firmware writing tutorial to be able to write firmware to these boards.

MY GOSH this is what I've been wanting for years! I have designed dozens of functional parts in fusion, but it has been a struggle. Each time I have essentially just figured it out as I went along. My issue was always regarding measuring and placement. If I searched for this I would either find snobby forum posts or video tutorials that were insanely complex and started at the very beginning. Turns out what I needed was the creation of a functional part that went straight into it like you did. After tons of other videos and giving up this one was the one that just made it sound easy and it clicked. DIdn't even click on it to learn that as I was just happy to see you had a new vid but here I am surprised you solved my problem. Thanks!

Thank you for all your helpful videos Chris!

This series has been quite the revelation. First, you realize that even if you consider yourself advanced, you end up learning way more from basic videos than the so-called advanced ones. And now, for the students in the 3D printing lab, I’ve got a full series ready to send them off to study on their own. No more endless teaching sessions for me-hallelujah! Thanks a ton!

This is a great starting video. I find it easier to have the workspace set up so that X/Y is the horizontal base plane, and Z is the vertical axis, like on a 3D printer, rather than having Y as the vertical axis. To change that, click on the person icon in the very top right, select Preferences, and change "Default modelling orientation" from "Y up" to "Z up". It might be worth mentioning that Autodesk state in their FAQs that hobbyists using the personal license version are allowed to make up to $1000 per annum, so although you can't use it to run a business, there's no problem if you occasionally sell an item or people pay you a small amount. Just don't sell a design that way in case it turns into a commercial product, as my understanding is that that would be a breach of the non-commercial terms.

Danke, super wenn die sprache direkt übersetz wird

One thing you can do, if you have an accurate image is scale the image in Fusion360. I forget the feature name, but it takes two points on the image and the measurement you give it between those two points and scales the image properly. One way to do this is to scan the object and a ruler on a flatbed scanner. In this case it seems like you could use the motherboard image and measure how big it is across to get this done.

Some of their boards also have STEP format to import into CAD.

Great video. As I prefer FOSS, I really like FreeCAD. I'd love to see you do some of these videos based on FreeCAD rather than Fusion 360.

Well this just came at the perfect time. After fighting with a printer all day trying to save the OEM board I've decided to replace it with an M5P. The adapter is going to make things MUCH simpler. thank you for this video.

Chris this was a great tutorial in Fusion, and I liked your comment about not adding the standoffs for the BTT board, lets not complicate it - we will save that for later. Glad to see that even an expert has to go through multiple iterations to get it correct. I usually take a lot more.

#Chris Riley First of all I like your videos, Very helpful Thank you. I was wondering how to get my print bed to move to the front when I hit pause. Simplify3d, skr3mini, marlin & Visual Studio Code, ender 3 profile. either in the uncompiled data or in my slicer. Thanks

Still not even trying to design symmetrically using the origin. You still don't lock your sketch, which is pretty easy to spot, as it is kind of blue. Watching this, I realize how people get these ridiculous long history lines, like in this case, using move instead of extrude offset, you even end up re-adjusting to get the same height. This is very far from good design practice, and is how you should not design. Also, sketching on surfaces is also poor practice, and should be avoided if you can: If you alter the design, you'll quickly learn why. If this is how people actually design their parts, I kind of get why they only share step files. This video is fine to get people going, but it is poor design, done the wrong way. I started out doing all these mistakes, but there is very few sources with good simple explanations that shows you why best practice is just that, and why best practice is dependent on the model. But at least locking in the sketch so it turns black, is kind of the basic of basics of modeling.

Rather than design for captive nuts, why not size the holes for heat sets? OR design those nut holes so the hex holes are totally inside the part. Then pause the print to insert the nuts, then allow the printer to cover the tops of the nuts with the last few layers. I've done that for the screw knobs holding the bed onto my printer.

Please do an episode, or short, on printing TPU on the Prusa MK 3.

Just tried this and had all sorts of weird issues- KIAUH has been completely redone from the ground up, it was called viper v3.0 or something. Every time I find a video it is old and things have changed enough that there are issues I have no idea how to rectify😅 I got close- but nothings working right

i need a some tips i intalled this about a month ago and nothing working ever print fails. it would stick print head knocks off the model. and its stringy not a good layer squash one that did stay on the bed only made 2or3 layers but they separated i just dont know what to do. thats the other thing prompter face wont connect to my printer says it offline im using nebula smart kit screen with klipper

GD firmware is for boards that shipped with a Gigadevice micro Controller ( the chip to the lower right of the board #) Other boards shipped with the ST Micorelctronics Microcontroller. Per BV3D: Bryan Vines. kzbin.info/www/bejne/b5DCaIZ5ecl-qZY

do you have a good article on slicer settings and values to change it to when Linear Advance is on? im currently using prusa slicer.

Please do a video on how to configure btt she v2 in octoprint

Thanks for this refresher.

The Bambulab AMS has a small footprint, keeps the filament dry and makes changing out spools easy. I was going to buy a Prusa because of its open-source but ended up getting a P1P with an AMS because it was on sale. I would have liked for the P1P to have an ethernet port but at least it can be put into LAN only mode for model uploads. For an open source machine I purchased a used Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro and replaced it's firmware with the OpenNept4une project on Guthub.

Hey Chris! Do you have a video comparing Mainsail and Fluidd? I'm going to install Klipper for the first time and I don't really want to try both for a month or whatever before choosing one. So, how do they differ?

hey ho, what's up? where are you? I am looking to your channel but no content since 3 years. Hope U R well.

My mk3 won’t go lower no matter if I put the Z as -2 or 2 it won’t change

Thanks for this series. I have tried several Fusion tutorials and just did not get it, so using Tinker cad. With the way you are presenting I am getting it this time!! You don't move the pointer too fast and you say where you are taking it. Thanks!!

So this BTT PI can run klipper on my older artillery sidewinder x1? I tried with a Rpi zero 2 and got partway before getting stuck, i ordered the BTT pi- I can use this instead of the Rpizero2? It basically functions the same way?

actually i dont know much about linux i just wanted to setup a minecraft server which is workable on linux ubuntu will that work on it?

Hi Chris, for my ender 3v2 bowden setup I calculated a PA value of circa 0.4. Problem I am encountering is my extruder skipping steps (I guess it has not the torque needed to push extra filament at certain noozle pressure). Did you get this problem yourself?

Perhaps I am an idiot.. I can not find the PDF guide. What am I missing....?

Will this work on the MK4

2h for one Benchy. That's... a lot, right?

I'm new to 3D printing and 3D modeling, but I'm slightly further along than this. But I'm a "learn as I go" type of person, which means I miss the underlying reason for something being the way it is, sometimes. That's a long-winded way of saying I appreciate this series a whole lot because you're filling in gaps I didn't even know I had :)

Can you tell me how to change the config file? I messed up the ip address and now I cant get it to copnnect to the 2 that I messed up the ip addresses on. Thanks

"And then we're ready to start printing!" Yea, printing the next 3d printer upgrade... 😀

Nice. Ok your tutorial is very clear. we do not find tutorials like yours in French. I think I’ll translate it for people who, like me, are poor at English. With your permission of course. Thank you for your explanations!

Great video as always Chris. One thing i'd like to point out is that you want to be adding a clearance rather than tolerance between your parts. Clearance is the amount by which one object clears another. Tolerance is about allowable deviation. I think 3D printing filament with its listed dimensional accuracy of +/- 0.02mm might be a good example of a tolerance where as the distance between a threaded hole, and the machine screw threads is its clearance. Smart people in the comments... feel free to correct me as necessary.