Concrete Expansion Joints and using Sika correctly

Other videos tell you SIka is the right option of many out there.
I agree with them...but theres a few things you need to know.

[@AZDESERT2024]

For large joints, skip the foam filler cord - get a bag of play sand ( unlike other sand sold, it has no moisture ) fill the joint to 1/2" below the top and pump self leveling Sika on top. Also , get the Large tubes ( 29 oz ) as they are $13.69 at Home Depot, the smaller tubes are 10oz and are $7.98 ea.

[@CAMPFIRESKY]

I used the SIKA product (grey) with the backer foam as you have shown here. The only thing I did different, (from another KZbinR) was to throw a bunch of sand on it when it was still wet, and allowed it to cure for 3 days before driving on it, and sweeping the excess sand away. It worked like a champ and has survived 2 WINTERS in the Northeast. Now that I am in my retirement home in the mountains of North Carolina, I plan on repeating this process again. Many THANKS for your video ! It was a huge help !

[@rconcord9]

Good product and Easy to use. Home Depot sells 29oz large tube about $13.00. Painters tape along edges a very good tip. Also do not add more than 1/2 inch deep if product in joint. (Product says 1/4” min and 1/2” max = you’ll save more on amount of product you’ll use when keeping depth about 1/4”). You will definitely use much more than you think - buy extra, you can always return. Now the most important- product takes 3-5 days to fully cure and will stay “sticky” for many hours, that means unless you like a surface with bugs, leaves, dust, etc, cover joints with something to protect and keep clean while curing. I was “lucky” and only poured about 12’ before realizing and then “covered” the rest of all my patio joints.

[@kirbyroad5743]

Pay attention to the size of tubes. Lowes sells the 10 0z. tubes for around $9.00 and the 29 0z. tubes for $13.00 so big savings on larger tubes. Home Depot was about a $1.00 a tube cheaper on the 29 0z. tubes.

[@markwys]

Great video. I use Sika always - it has lasted the longest. Other tips include, warm the tubes up to at least 70 degrees to save the forearm and I have topped the joint with a light coating of sand to prevent any accidental foot traffic from picking up the product - i generally do public areas when public is present. NIce job!

[@alexjohnson232]

dont puncture the backer rod or the caulking will bubble

[@chortniroski]

You forgot to tell them how to stop the flow on each end of the expansion joint. It will drain away the expensive Sika if you don't put something there. I put tape but that was a mistake.

[@forrbyc1508]

I almost did the exact same thing! Noticed it was sandstone right before I was about to cut and had to go back to the store to buy the grey one lol

[@justme7303]

Thank you so much. I love how REAL this tutorial is! I do all kinds of projects myself but thought that I needed to leave certain ones to the "pros".... annnnd I hate spending money on things I can do myself. Now! I'm ready to tackle more! :D

[@hobohacker258]

THANK YOU for the mistakes. Not sure about you, but I learn the most from mistakes.

[@seanlocke9568]

I appreciate learning from your mistakes on this one! I have a very small project (sealing an irregular crack in the joint of two concrete stairs), and your video is helping me a lot!

[@horatiobeaker]

Great video. I just moved to Ohio this year from South Florida and the driveway and garage floor cracks seem to be much more of an issue because of the temperature variance. Your directions were spot on. Thanks.

[@goofydog2]

"use the CUT NOSE of the tube as a cork" That was a really GREAT tip!!! Thanks!

[@terryo4352]

If only I had watched this video yesterday... Still have more to go, though. And your tips will make it much easier with a better finished product. Thanks!

[@DeepakKumar-ju2hg]

Chris, this was a great walk through. Thanks for calling out the pitfalls. I was about to buy one backing rod and then ran into this video. I am buying another to make sure its squeezes and fits well.

[@ShaneGCESRG]

Put masking tape on the sides where you dont want any joint seal (sika), use a very wet finger to smooth and keep wetting that finger. Pull tape and smooth again. Joint seal wont stick to a wet finger so just wipe finger off with a rag. Don't soak joint seal (sika) with water while smoothing it off as joint seal wont stick. Also, when smoothing, leave joint seal lower in middle and higher on sides (concave) for any expansion, your finger ☝should be enough. For wider joints, use a thin plastic scraper or tube to make the same concave indentation along the length of the joint.

[@jobaecker9752]

I have almost the identical situation, and I'm using EXACTLY the same products you demo here. My gap was larger, though, and I ended up using two 3/4" foam backer rods plus one 3/8". This AFTER I filled some of the gap with gravel and sand. I wedged the foam rod in there best as I could. I ended up with about a 3/8" gap to the top of the concrete.

[@SifiFan]

Thank you. I was going to use wood until i saw your video. You saved me a lot of work. Jim

[@dexmadden1201]

a quality caulk gun can make a huge difference as well, I did a few with a standard 29oz gun that got trashed beyond use. I got another with these features: "18:1 Thrust Ratio, Rotating Barrel, Sintered Steel Catch Plate, Brass Thrust Rod Bearing, Dripless" for my most recent work on small oddly shaped cracks in concrete and I could not have done any of that with the standard gun, especially the release that stops the flow. I have patches of sikaflex on my face from 4 days ago, it is STRONG stuff.

[@successfourandtwenty]

Great video man.. this kind is my best to watch :)