Chrysler / Dodge : TIPM Repair - No Wipers

[@SouthMainAuto]

**EX2-2U1S Automotive Relays** : amzn.to/2Srl56r **Head Mount Magnifier** : amzn.to/2St4f7c **Solder Sucker & Desoldering Wick** : amzn.to/2CFkBV5

[@hondatrix]

Happy New Year

[@walterk1221]

jeffescortlx channel, while not a "how to", shows superb technique for de-solder/replace.

[@SimplyDiagnostics]

Thanks for sharing this Eric, I remember my first time, shaky hands, sick feeling in stomach, worrying about iron temp, solder type, battling the wick. You're awesome for doing this on camera. Steve 👍

[@andreasmaltcke117]

Solder sucker is OK if you have at least some practice in using this tool. It usually takes 5 years of practice, sometimes more. (Kidding!) Best desoldering wick is - suprise!! - Goodwick (has a lot of flux inside). But every desoldering wick works, you only need more rosin (flux) or a larger soldering iron. Your soldering iron is "too weak", there are large heat-dissipating surfaces in the automotive electronics. Lead-free "tins" are evil ... paradoxically, you have to add more solder (with lead) first, and then remove everything. You always need a flux, when removing tin too. The following are best suited for these applications: www.amazon.com/Anton-Breton-VP-08-Standard-Rosin/dp/B005036DCQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1546194209&sr=1-2&keywords=rosin ((that means: any cheap rosin, cheaper is better)) It is easy to wash off with acetone or alcohol. And yes, you should watch some clips on youtube ;-) But! work done? everything works? means everything is OK!

[@geltecmail]

It was a riveting video all the way through, if only waiting to see sparks. You did not disappoint. Of course, if all else fails you could have done a video on adding a 1975 dash mounted wiper switch and relay setup to a modern vehicle. LOL

[@bigclivedotcom]

That was quite a tough challenge with the reduced access and a double sided PCB with multi-pin component. On a plus note, the holes for the pins seemed quite generous. (It's harder with close fitting holes.) There's always the risk of accidentally lifting pads and breaking tracks to other sections of the PCB if you use too much force in removing components. As someone else mentioned, you have to be careful powering the relays on the PCB as it can cause issue with the diodes that are often in parallel to the coil to snub the switching spikes. There's also the risk that if you inadvertently touched a logic track it could nuke a chip too. The desoldering braid is good for single sided PCBs, especially when used with flux. The desoldering pump (which you were using correctly) is better for sucking solder out of plated through holes. A good way to clean those holes is to get one person at one side with the iron and another person at the other side with the pump. You can get a better machined pump with a replaceable silicone sleeve at the end that sucks better. (Or a soldering iron with pump built in.) I'd recommend a set of "hollow desoldering needles" from eBay. Just a couple of dollars for a set. They're hollow stainless steel pins with handles that you choose to fit around the pin of the component you're desoldering. When you melt the solder the pin/tube slides in around the pin isolating it from the rest of the solder, and then because it's stainless it can slide back out again after the solder has cooled. That leaves the pin free. Fresh solder applied to old joints cleans the oxidation off them and makes the solder more fluid. Choose a 60/40 tin/lead electronics grade solder with a flux core and get it from a respectable source. Not eBay. You did a good job. If you were routinely repairing those things you'd get it down to a fine art.

[@SouthMainAuto]

A reply from the man him self :D Thanks for watching Clive and adding you input! I really appreciate it. I change out enough of these for regular customers I think I will save one and order some the suggested bits of kit and do some playing. I think that is the only way I will get better. Again, thanks for stopping in and offering you input. -Eric O.

[@patburnsent]

@@SouthMainAuto I've only seen one other comment wondering what caused the relay to melt the contacts together. You had mentioned a code regarding the PARK switch. Did your sister say anything about the wipers getting stuck just prior to the failure? If that was the intermittent relay and the wiper motor was stalled while the relay opened and closed it could have arced enough to melt the contacts together.

[@SeersantLoom]

@@SouthMainAuto You can watch Louis Rossman channel (Macbook repair) how he uses the solder wick (hmm, "wick"... that may be the reason I see so many "WIX" ads there). It works well for his cause because of the surfacemount components. You can use heat gun (I mean, preferably the real solder job one) and heatmask from kapton tape to melt all the solderpoints in one go on those multi-pin components and then you can just pull them out. Clean the holes and install replacement(s). Btw, did the park switch have any (electrical) connection with broken relay or was it fed from separate circuit? This could explain why it wasnt working before.

[@rfmerrill]

Is there a disadvantage to using 63/37 over 60/40? I pretty much always use the former.

[@SamnissArandeen]

@@rfmerrill Cost, really. 60/40 is common and relatively cheap. But if the component moves during the semi-solid state, that'll cause cracking and a cold joint.

[@klwthe3rd]

With all the problems these TIPM's have cause Chrysler owners, it's nice to see someone tackle an actual repair on these $600.00 units. What an amazing video before the end of the year. 🤗

[@jannepo]

Yes. Looks like an utterly stupid idea. Must be just for making money. 10 relays = $50 10 wires = ~$1. Oh, let's replace those with a $30 Chinese piece of electronics and micro relays, make it a manufacturer specific part, for which you need an subscription and a programming tool to change it and charge a $570 profit from it. More reasons to keep my 19 yr old Citroen running.

[@m3rdpwr]

I think Nissan has similar issues with their units. They weren't heavy duty enough and were blowing out. I know it was common in the Frontiers many years ago.

[@jannepo]

16 channel relay card for Arduino $12 from China. 10 channel relay board + some tupperware from GM $600. Oh man.. www.banggood.com/BESTEP-16-Channel-5V-Relay-Module-LM2596-With-Optocoupler-Protection-Low-Level-Trigger-For-Auduino-p-1390338.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

[@acidise1]

chrysler junk, ever priced out a blindspot sensor for the 2010 - 13 ones? $1650 from mopar/dorman/Std Mtr Prod. times 2. 1 for each side. The brain that controls the blindspot system??? $500. just 1. cant believe the TIPM is only 600 bucks, relatively speaking. Glad you fixed it, Hope chrysler engineers and pricing people fall into a barbedwire fence landfill. ridiculous money for junk products.

[@coldformer1]

not greedy just stupid engineering

[@Sangueffusor]

Pretty much all manufactured PCBs now use lead-free solder, which I find harder to desolder and remove. Counter-intuitively, if you add some good lead-based solder to the joint before trying to desolder it, the solder will flow much more easily and be faster to remove.

[@BigDaddy_MRI]

Lead free solder is pretty much crap, unless it is eutectic (with silver), but mass produced devices never use lead free eutectic solder. Too pricey.

[@nickv4073]

Leaded solder also leads to long lasting solder connections because it expands and contracts less with temp changes. Thats why leaded solder was used in the first place. Its especially important for cars which go through extreme temp changes. The Green people who forced the move to lead free just never cared about the consequences. Cracked solder joints are the #1 reason for electronics failing today. That's why electronic repair people stocked up on leaded solder before the ban.

[@JeffreyGroves]

Yes, melting lead based solder into the existing solder creates an alloy that is much easier to desolder. Big Clive discusses this quite often.

[@PandaMan02]

should be all PCBs, fresh from the factory, its illegal for manufacturers to use lead solder, still legal to use it for repairs though.

[@JeffreyGroves]

@@nickv4073 In the US you can get lead based solder still -- you're just not supposed to use it for consumer electronics.

[@karmatose]

The best way to remove solder from a PCB is to add more solder. Sounds counter intuitive, but the fresh solder mixed with the old solder will wick up better into your desoldering braid. Add some flux to your braid to make it real easy.

[@jima3129]

Quite right. And use 60-40. Once it blends it's much easier to wick and work with. Brush on paste flux first.

[@beechwood619]

For the future, always add new solder to the point you are de-soldering, it makes removal much easier.

[@BigDaddy_MRI]

Yep. Great tip!!!

[@jkbrown5496]

Does two things. The flux in the new solder cleans the surface. And using 60/40 solder on those no lead solder joints makes things a lot easier to get heat transfer.

[@rjrodwell]

You were doing everything right with the desoldering braid and the sucker except for missing this step. Pulling on the side of the part while heating a couple of pins can sometimes get a little bit of movement and break the pins free. Or just hack apart the relay and remove the pins one by one

[@papalouie5187]

adding new solder helps transfer the head. i've had better success with adding a drop or two of liquid solder flux to the wick. the flux helps the solder get off the joint faster. and faster is better when it comes to not-overheating the tracks on the pc board.

[@joelunchboxx]

@@bobbydazzler6990 And a bit of solder on the tip of the soldering iron helps keep the tip in tip top shape. Good example of how to save money by working on your own vehicle. Not a bad idea to find something similar to practice on first. And watch the heat! Too much is bad.

[@pewpew215]

Basically if you dont know how relays work... youve probably checked out at this point. Good ole SMA comedy

[@youbreakemwefixem7209]

FYI...watching the thought process unfold is never boring! If you're learning, so are we! Nice job 🤜🤛

[@Eremon1]

No worries Eric your fans know that this is more of an experiment and learning process than an actual how-to repair. I personally appreciate you taking us along for the ride.

[@doogulass]

As an electronics nerd who knows very little about cars this was my favorite video! Another thing you could try is stainless steel desoldering needles. You can buy them cheap on eBay. They are hollow tubes in various sizes. Heat up the joint, shove the needle over the pin and into the hole, let the solder cool, remove the needle, and the pin will be completely separated from the PCB’s through hole. Since the needle is stainless steel the solder won’t stick to it.

[@bobspurloc]

nice! I had never heard of this before.

[@doogulass]

@@bobspurloc Yeah, it seems like not too many people are aware of them! They're really convenient if you only need to do a few pins and don't want to bother getting out the vacuum desoldering gun. They're not perfect but you can't beat the price.

[@mikezeestraten7000]

Thanx for the tip on stainless steel needles. Didn't know about them.

[@consaka1]

Now that's a clever idea.

[@lexteakmialoki5544]

Wish I could have helped. Changes thousands of old TTE chips years ago when I was a Tech. Pretty simple if you follow the steps. 1) First load up the pins with fresh solder gets everything flowing and the added mass helps dissipate heat from the board. 2) reheat and pull out the solder with the sucker. Pull the iron away just before you suck the pin. It keeps you from jamming the iron on the board and scoring it, also with the iron out of the way you can completely cover the hole with the sucker tip. 3) lastly the pins will have a bias in one direction and remain attached at the edge of the hole. Clean off your iron and just lightly push them to the center of the hole, you will hear them click as they release from the edge of the pad. Your iron must be solder free to do this. Typically the chip/relay will just fall out of the board. Nice job for you first try.

[@franknewling1139]

#2 especially❗

[@advancednutritioninc908]

Well Said !! Clear and simple procedure! Same one I use! Except sometimes i clip the leads on larger parts like relays on the parts side and then I can remove pin by pin putting very little heat on the board.

[@spelunkerd]

Ha ha, it's so cool to watch a pro dip a toe into a real DIY board repair! As always, your diagnostic process is elegantly simple, this is a brilliant video. I've been playing around with microsoldering SMD boards, it's a whole different world. Fortunately the cost of specialty tools has come down dramatically in the past decade, but unfortunately the new boards coming out today are really challenging. A typical resistor on a new SMD board is smaller than a grain of house dust. For those interested in how new electronic repairs happen, there are a few channels that go into detail, Louis Rossman and Ifixit both do computers and phones. It's a new age, we're all going to want to know how to do these repairs....

[@KCautodoctor]

I also recommend Jessa Jones at iPad Rehab KZbin channel. She really goes in-depth into the diagnostic & repair process too, similar to the way Louis Rossman and iFixit video go into.

[@creditdebitcardscostyoumon4588]

I tried to fix a power window driver side controller - it has SMD too - you nailed it when you said "resistors smaller than a grain of house dust" - got me laughing me butthole off!!!

[@jkbrown5496]

I've been able to do 0402 packages, but not without a few flying off into the dust, which is nothing given capacitors of 008004 (0.08mm x 0.04mm). About the size of the through holes on that TPIM board. Magnifying lens light no longer works and I think I'd need to move up to a microscope to go smaller than 0402. Checkout a youtuber - Androkavo I learned a lot from watching his soldering videos.

[@johnlenz8221]

Just finished this video after Ivan's 'Dakota from Hell'. Two things that I've learned: 1. Chrysler products are EVIL, and 2: You and Ivan are awesome - you are both excellent mechanics.

[@briantii]

John Lenz Same with me. That Dakota sucked and both of these guys are awesome!

[@digitalrailroader]

Rule #1 on FCA/DaimlerChrysler electrical diagnostics: it’s ALWAYS the TIPM. Rule #2 if diagnosis points to another component, replace the TIPM anyway because it will fail sooner or later. Rule #3 if all else fails, Replace the TIPM.

[@SouthMainAuto]

That could be the official trouble tree for all Chryslers

[@digitalrailroader]

South Main Auto Repair LLC here’s hoping that I’ll never have to use that diagnostic tree on my mom’s 2010 Journey. It’s been relatively trouble free so far (only issue we have had so far in the year we have owned it is a leaky TPMS valve stem seal in the right rear tire) the older PDCs were a LOT more reliable.

[@newjerseybill3521]

Don't forget the tree branch "Replace all ground terminals"

[@parochial2356]

@@SouthMainAuto - Absolutely! Eric re-writes the service manual!

[@LayZeeDawg]

@@digitalrailroader the only real issue with the Journey (besides styling) are the stupid plastic Y heater hose connectors.

[@marianluc6235]

Man you really took it up a notch. Not too many mechanics like to thinker with that kind of stuff. Kudos for you.

[@777warhero]

Welcome back to the South Main electronics channel. You're basically an electrical engineer now.

[@timothycooney986]

Congratulations on expanding your capabilities to include PCB repairs. I also genuinely appreciate your willingness to share learning experiences with your audience. Nicely done.

[@bobweiss8682]

Great video! For multilayer boards with heavy traces like that, you are often best off taking the defective part out in pieces, carefully breaking bits off and heating/pulling the contact pin stubs out of the board individually. Then the solderwick can be used to remove the remaining solder from the plated through holes. This technique will minimize the stress on the PCB, especially when using non-optimal tools. There is a HUGE difference in the quality of different solderwick brands. You want a wick impregnated with a large amount of high quality flux. The cheap generic Chinesium stuff from eBay/Amazon is less than useless. Spend the extra money for brand name Chem-Wik or Soder-Wick from Chemtronics or other quality supplier. And use an iron with plenty of heat, which lets you get on and off the pads quickly.

[@94jimmy5]

Excellent video, Mr.O. Adapt, improvise, overcome. The design of the TIPM is no doubt driven by cost. There is no thought of repair, just replace. Not a bad idea if inexpensive. $600 is absurd.

[@akdenyer]

Hi Eric, you know I am an electronics engineer and designer it was fun watching you get that relay out. That is pretty much how you do it and the solder sucker is one of the best methods. However interesting your videos are, it has made me even more determined to finish my Vehicle off. My new vehicle based on a S11 British Land Rover but it is not a Land Rover. Has no engine electronics at all. The only semiconductors on the vehicle is the alternator regulator. Everything else is switches and relays. Not automotive relays. All the connectors are Amphenol military spec and the wire is Tefzel aircraft military spec. Because I am sick of fixing electrical bad connections. Your videos have confirmed to me I am going the right way. I don't even have electronic ignition. You can do this in Canada if it is based on an old vehicle. Like an Antique vehicle in the US. All it has to do is start and get me to work where I design and build machines using electronics. Modern car manufacturers have completely lost their way, I have worked for Cosworth and Ford. I could afford to buy a brand new truck cash but they don't make anything I want it is all, mostly junk. You just have to watch one of your diagnostic videos to see how crazy the whole industry has got. I think you are a really great mechanic and engineer. Just incredible feats of fault diagnosis. I just feel sorry you have to battle with such poor design concepts. My faults are usually design faults which are sometimes very difficult because, is it built wrong, or is it a design fault? At least you know if you find the fault it should work. There is simply far more complexity than the machine requires. The best engineers make simple design solutions. The more I see the less impressed I am. Just horrible design concepts. I teach all my young engineers. Remember somebody has to fix this thing and they probably have no idea what ohms law is. All you get on the phone is, it does not work or it clicks and nothing happens. And you have to guide them through some fault finding and you are 1000's of miles away. KISS, Keep It Simple Stupid. I just feel so sorry for garage engineers having to battle with this crap. It is so unnecessary and does very little to improve the performance of a vehicle. I love old Land Rovers but unfortunately they were constrained by finance and the electrics were just rubbish. They mixed Aluminum (Birmabright) and steel and then pass a current through it. Corrosion here we come!!! But the concept was brilliant based on the WW2 Willis Jeep which is also a great design. Just needs updating and made a bit more safe. It is great to learn how far vehicles have come and the methods used. You do a fantastic job explaining, and for somebody who is not an electronics engineer your grasp of the subject is very good. You may not like Land Rovers but you could fix mine in your sleep. No CAT, no O2 sensors, no cam sensors, no crank sensors. no injectors. My anti theft device is you take the rotor arm out. I don't think any car thief is going to have a Land Rover rotor arm in their pocket if they even know what that is. Oh and did I mention I am helping build an EMC closed loop fuel injected motorbike engine for a friend. Not my idea of the way to go but it is not so bad on a racing engine. I don't hate high technology just appropriate technology with repairability and recyclability built in. Yours Allister Denyer

[@Blazer02LS]

Sounds like a great video topic. Please tell me nothing on it came from Lucas.....

[@akdenyer]

@@Blazer02LS Hi There, Well the only Lucas parts are some of the original instrument cluster. Lucas was a great company and made some very good stuff. The lights are Wipac but modified with Rubbolite brass and Beryllium copper spring inserts. Dual pole no ground through the case apart from the brake and sidelight bulbs. CAV was their military and industrial arm and their stuff was first class on the electrical side. Beautifully made and no expense spared. Original 1950's Lucas stuff was not too bad but just like a lot of things in the UK they were strangled by their customers who wanted everything so cheap. There is no reason why a vehicle could not be made these days to last for 100 years but the manufacturers have been able too fool everybody that the current situation is acceptable. Waste resources and materials and make money. As for electric cars all you need is a pocket calculator and an understanding of power and energy requirement and you can prove they will never work. But on we go trying to make electric cars. Climate change is another scam. Life can be very frustrating for an engineer. I should write a book on this but I fear for my life if you upset these guys they are very powerful. I am one guy with an old Land Rover so they are unlikely to bother me. Yours sincerely Allister Denyer

[@CrimeVid]

Allister Denyer I read your comments because I like the idea of an electrically re engineered Landy ! You reckon 50’s Lucas stuff is okay-ish ? So what do you make of the Dyno Start then ?

[@akdenyer]

Hi There, The Dynastart was a reasonably good idea to combine the starter and Dynamo. Siba made one for years which was then made by Bosch and used on Polar marine generators. Lucas made an early version called the A900 in the1930's for cars and there may have been others. The problem is, it is a compromise device. trying to be a motor and a dynamo. it has to have two sets of field windings and therefore a bit more complicated to make and the output is a bit low and the starting torque is low but it does work and works well. I used to find the drives would wreck the shaft or pulley. My Land Rover project is a bit more than new electrics. The electrical system is completely redesigned with the fuse, power distribution module and control box under the seat and not on the fire wall. Easy to get at and out of the rain. It is a largely new vehicle. using Land Rover parts. New hot dipped Galvanised frame and stainless steel floor and footwells. I designed them in Solid works and cut them on our laser and then bent them with our press brake. New ones are available but they are just thin steal and little protection against corrosion, I used them as patterns. Stainless exhaust system. All powder coated repaired bodywork . Air operated Ashcroft locking diffs, disc Brakes on the front, Ashcroft high ratio transfer case gears for higher road speed. And of course a Mayflower Fairey 10,000Lb PTO Driven front winch. I would like to design a system to get the cable out the back to pull you out of a ditch backwards and a jib crane for the front to lift things. All old technology done many times before, nothing new. It comes from the main gearbox output before the transfer case, so has 4 speeds and reverse. It is only a concept vehicle and would need many refinements if anybody wanted to seriously manufacture them for sale. This one will have cost about $200,000 if the labor is factored in. But about $30,000 in parts. I am only using Land Rover stuff because I am familiar with them. You could do exactly the same with an old Jeep. There may be other good basic designs as well. Many parts are available for them as well. I would love to start a movement in rebellion against car manufacturers. Build your own simple vehicle and say goodbye to inflated cost and overcomplicated vehicles. We may in fact fund a small production run based on a more available US vehicle. There is no need for this overcomplication, they are not space ships or guided missiles just ground transport. The complication and sophistication is completely ridiculous and totally unnecessary in my opinion and I for one refuse to buy their products. Yours sincerely Mr. A. K. Denyer B. Eng. (hons) elec, MIET P.Eng

[@CrimeVid]

Allister Denyer sounds like you are trying to build a modern Austin champ ! in my life the damn Dynostart popped up on marine engines, very prone to melting themselves before the engine started, this is not what you need to happen when closing the coast rapidly and a difficult entrance to make !

[@tomthumb1941]

it was obvious you were trying to save your sister some money, great effort on your part, you did a great job.

[@thebenchmonkey4117]

You need to use flux when using desoldering braid. It will help the solder to wet into the braid and come out of the hole. Solder goes towards the heat source. You should also use a chisel tip on the soldering iron because the conical tip does not transfer heat as well as a chisel tip into the solder joint. You can also lower the melting point of the solder by making an alloy of the lead free and the leaded solder. Just melt some leaded solder into the joint before you start to use the solder sucker or braid.

[@scowell]

Braid comes with flux... that's what makes it solder-wick, otherwise it would just be braid. It's dry, so you need a wet connection to get it hot and working. Definitely add solder before desoldering... counter-intuitive!

[@rick_.]

Yup. Good channel for electronics repair is Louis Rossmann. Fixes Mac computers.... TIPM is enormous compared to surface mount motherboard components.

[@Blazer02LS]

Yep, no-lead solder doesn't like to flow very well, add some lead and it becomes a different beast.

[@thebenchmonkey4117]

@@rick_. Another good one is I-pad Rehab with Jessa Jones. She does microsoldering on I-Pads (Obviously), and I-Phones.

[@buntnik]

Lead wire is sold at any flyfishing shop or online. Can i melt this onto the no-lead solder to make the alloy?

[@rickgross-hk1sr]

You are a good brother! Great job! I love watching your videos! 1:18. AM St. Louis time.

[@daniellma]

Great Job Eric, you brought back memories of learning to desolder (I was 12 - 13 at the time), Practice makes perfect. Also, in case it wasn't mentioned before, the reason the park circuit wasn't working was because it uses the normally closed circuit in the relay...it wasn't changing. Once the relay was fixed, the park circuit saw what it needed. Anyway, you did great!

[@acidking202]

I realize this is old and already said and done, and was a gratifying learning experience. Wander around the net and Look for Dodge nitro Wiper recall J28. It involves adding external relays to the tipm. It took us probably about 20 minutes to complete, and we didnt have to dissasemble the box, just splice in a power source and used the existing control wires. With that said , AWESOME CHANNEL ... Keep up the good work. It is an absolute Joy after 35 years in the business to meet someone who has exactly the same approach to a situation as I would. Kudos...

[@xantronix]

I keep expecting you to implore your viewers to keep their junk in a clamping device at the end of your videos, but given that this channel is PG I know that you are expressing that feeling in your heart. 💕 I love that you continue to push the envelope of your craft further and further and never settle into a rut. I hope that someday soon I can afford some Patreon subscriptions, or perhaps as I change careers from writing software to maybe being a mechanic or doing automotive embedded work, pay forward everything I've learned from you and so many other KZbin greats like AvE, Terriblefire, Dave Jones, Eric without the O, DiagnoseDan. Thank you so much for everything that you do.

[@tanis143]

And this is why I don't work on cars made after 1985. I'm an old school, self taught, shade tree mechanic. The only thing I never learned was how to repair automatic transmissions. Once I saw that you needed a reader to diagnose and fix cars I gave up. I can do regular maintenance on em, but once the money light comes on I wipe my hands of it. Hats of to SMA. He actually makes this work look doable for us DIY'ers. Plus it makes me glad I don't live in NY (one of many reasons) when I see the underside of the cars from there.

[@techdude2000]

You did a fine job for someone that had never done that kind of circuit board repair. Your sister is lucky to have a brother like you!

[@gsallen9588]

I'd call this one of your best videos. You boldy attempted a repair of a nightmare, multi-bus-layer PCB assembly and taught yourself the best solder-removal method along the way. How many mechanics would have had the patience and troubleshooting tenacity to even attempt such a feat? Bravo! A little heavier solder tip might have sped up the process, but in this case it probably thwarted damage from any iron over-dwelling. Solder wick containing flux seems to work best; and smallest width suitable. And rosin core (electrical solder) for resoldering. Always a pleasure to watch you enter alien woods and exit the other side unscathed. And WOW! - I had never seen such a multi-tier jungle of slip-in connections between PC boards. Imagine that exposed to road mist...vines of the green goo gone wild. Kudos to the enclosure designers.

[@notxarb21]

Your sister is one lucky lady! I am gobsmacked by the cojones it took to disassemble, diagnose, repair, and reassemble this electronic Rube Goldberg mess! You, sir, are a mechanic's mechanic! Happy New Year to you!

[@C99631]

I keep watching these vids as you are a supreme genius of the Universe when it comes to vehicle malfunction diagnosis, and humble to boot. You have that inquisitive mind, innate ability and honesty to the point of self deprecation. Only Mrs O know you aren't perfect.

[@JOHNPHUFNAGEL]

Surely someone has beat me to it. To use "Chemwick" lay it on top of the solder joint and put the solder iron on top of the chemwick until it absorbs the solder, you were not leaving it on long enough to melt the solder. It works way better than the snot sucker. A big relay like that can take a lot of heat so don't worry about messing it up. You should use a bigger tip on your iron for big stuff like relays. Great job and Happy New Year

[@garyalford9394]

wow Eric you are the Man, in my old age I don't have your patience , hate all these plastic locks they use on everything, especially when they get old and brittle like me ! But nice job !!!

[@Diagnosedan]

You made someone very happy and a great video! 👊

[@pooldoctorofclermontinc5788]

I do this same process on electronic boards that control swimming pool equipment. I had the same issues with the braided desoldering wick. The solder sucker does the job a lot better. I always worry that I've overheated the boards, but more often than not, the repairs work. The boards are pretty resilient to heat. Cool video, it was fun to watch.

[@Conqueef-tadoor]

On my personal vehicle, I would have just cut the wiper relay wiring and splice in some external relays, to basically bypass the TIPM. Just be careful and make sure to use weatherproof relays and connectors to avoid corrosion issues.

[@mikechiodetti6737]

The solder sucker is DEFINITELY the best way, unless you removing 12 gauge wire and larger cable. I used those a LOT when I worked in electronics. You may be able to remove the lower part of the tool with the tip to clean it. With the lower part of the solder sucker removed, push on the spring loaded upper handle to get the rest of the solder out. When sucking up solder, put your solder iron tip on the part to be removed, ADD some solder to what's there already, then use the solder sucker. Works every time! You can use a higher wattage solder iron, like a Weller, BUT you have to pulse the tip on and off so the circuit board "pad" won't break off. Fixed a dash radio speaker like that. GREAT VIDEO! Congradulations, you're now an electronics parts repair specialist ! !

[@theradiomechanic9625]

As others have said, add some lead type solder to the joint first. It will alloy with the Lead Free solder on the board and make it flow easier and at a lower temperature. Next add some flux to the de-soldering braid. This will help the solder "wet" the braid and make it much easier to "suck up" onto the braid. These are going to be "plated through" holes in the board. Need a lot of heat reserve to heat the pin all the way through the board to make the solder flow up to the braid. Best solution is to buy yourself an inexpensive de-soldering station. These have enough heat and strong vacuum to pull the solder out. As a last resort you can carefully cut apart the bad relay down to its pins and remove them one at a time. Be careful not to damage the board when doing this.

[@williamsquires3070]

The Radio Mechanic - having done this sort of thing for many years, I totally agree; that’s why I use the “4-second rule” and my trusty Radio Shack desoldering iron. Squeeze the bulb and apply the desoldering iron tip over the trace and hold for 4 seconds, then let go of the bulb and remove the tip. Then use a fine-tip needle-nose pliers and GENTLY wiggle the component pin/lead - if it doesn’t move, hit it with the desoldering iron again. Note that component leads soldered to power planes (ground or Vcc) often have a bigger pad and you’ll need more time due to the fact that the large pads act as a heat sink, pulling heat away from the desoldering iron tip! Whatever you do, DON’T just yank the desoldered component off the board, or you’ll likely rip the PC board traces with it; gently wiggle the component leads - and, if possible - the component itself and observe the leads coming through on the solder side; all of the leads should move in the hole(s). Ideally, it’ll then just fall out. More than likely, you’ll see most of the pins move, and a few remain stationary; hit them with the soldering iron again. This procedure assumes that the board is saved, and the component is bad, if you don’t care about the board, you can be a bit more aggressive with the component pin wiggling! 😻 Nice to hear the shout-out to AvE and Bigclive! 🤗

[@mobilemechmantim773]

This is the type of content I like. And don't ever feel stupid trying new things. That's my job.

[@john_c]

Nice work, especially for a first PCB repair! I am an electrical engineer and often re-work PCBs. A few comments: 1. You were using the solder wick correctly and it is used for such applications. You generally do not separate out the braid, just set it on top of the solder joint and place the soldering iron tip on top of the wick. It should then heat the solder joint through the wick and the solder should work its way into the wick. However, the little pen style soldering irons (like the one it appears you are using) don't generally have enough power to work effectively with solder wick. The solder wick acts like a heat sink and prevents a low power soldering pen from getting hot enough to work properly. Basically your soldering iron probably doesn't have enough beans for the task. You would have MUCH better results with a higher output power (regulated tip temperature) soldering iron like the Hakko (not a sponsor) listed below. In addition, these are a HUGE advantage when soldering or desoldering a pin that is connected to a large section of copper on the board (which is often the case). A small soldering pen will not be able to provide enough heat due to the heat sinking effect of the larger copper area. Having a good soldering iron with high output power capability makes a huge difference in doing PCB rework: Hakko FX888D29BY 2. Another viable (and quicker) option for removing a multi-pin component like a relay is to use a heat gun with a fine tip like the Dewalt (not a sponsor) listed below. Put the fine tip on, set it to ~850F-900F and point it at the pins while pulling gently on the relay from the other side. If used carefully all the pins will desolder and the relay can be simply pulled out while the solder on all pins is molten. Then it is easy to clean up the pin holes and solder in the new part. You do have to be careful if there are surface mount components on the PCB (either side) as you could accidentally desolder them if you aren't careful! DEWALT D26960K Heat Gun 3. It is generally recommended to clean the residual flux off the PCB (printed circuit board) after soldering is completed (depending on the type of flux it can be corrosive and lead to joint failures or electrical leakage paths over time). You can use a flux remover that is electronics safe like the Chemtronics one shown below. Not as much fun as brake cleaner, but almost!!! Chemtronics ES835B Flux Remover with Brush Love your great videos! Keep up the great work! [Edit: Looks like KZbin doesn't like the links to those products so I removed the links...]

[@pdelaureal]

Bravo!.....I sold electronics for years and you patiently did what many decide they can't. Where there's a will, there's a way, if I can do it, you can too. I am so impressed.

[@chrispeters6271]

Hi Eric. Nice to see that you are doing the same kind of repair I did a few months ago. Keep up the awesome work.

[@treborg777]

Just saw this for the first time. You did an excellent job positioning the camera thru this episode to include us in your work/struggle. I was starting to talk to the video while you were struggling with the solder wick, "get to the solder sucker!!". It's worked much better for me than solder wick.

[@marscruz]

The contact melted because of corrosion build up or "burning" on the contact. The increased resistance acts like a heater until it gets hot enough to melt the contacts. The best contacts use corrosion resistant and high temperature metal alloys. The contacts once they build up resistance can also exchange metal from the common to the NC or NO contact surface ( or the other way around). It can make little stalactites and stalagmites on the contacts and these high and low spots can reduce the surface area that can pass the current and cause increased resistance and heating. When the contact changes state, (on to off -- or -- off to on) there is a big inductive load change (current spike) and this causes arcing and sparking on the contact surfaces.

[@janpur1417]

Hi Eric! I love the way you teach electronics to general public for FREE! If you did this diagnosis at a college you get paid in $$$. I learn lot about STFT and its uses to diagnose issues. How to check O2 sensor and feeding lines etc., Thank you for all your time and generosity.

[@wysetech2000]

Well done, Ivan......I mean ,Eric.

[@johnadams3152]

For better results with desolder, you need a good clean soldering iron tip and a small damp spouge to wipe the tip on to keep it clean while your working. Put a small fresh drop of solder on the tip of the soldering iron because it will help conduct the heat from the tip to the solder on the board. Good job! Good video. Enjoy your videos.

[@acb6256]

This was intense, like watching a sci fi or espionage movie. It was as if our hero, Eric, was rewiring Chrysler's bomb to prevent it going off. As Eric himself says..."Boom!"

[@crisschnacker8126]

One trick I've learned after you have the component removed is to reflow the solder again in each hole and stick a round toothpick into the hole so that it is easier to reinsert the new component. The solder wick/solder sucker hints above should work. If you do not care about destroying the part, you can carefully break the part down to the leads then remove each lead, one at a time. Great videos...keep up the good work.

[@thedogbarber]

We need to change the name from SMA to SMARTS.... South Main Auto and Really Tiny Soldering.

[@Blazer02LS]

That is standard through hole, big soldering these days...

[@VeteranofthePsychicWars]

And how. I’ve been hand soldering surface mount components and 40 pitch devices. My skills are now useful again.

[@ivanolsen7966]

Oct 2020 .... THAT is da truth ... ! ,,,, VERY 'SMART(s) ' comment

[@beauhatman4395]

Excellent video Mr O. Nothing short of AMAZING. Your approach and technique are "second to none". I've become addicted to your presentations. That being said.....Way to go Chrysler. Glad to see they're keepin 70's era electronic tech alive and well. TIPM my a$$. This so called "power module" is nothin but a bunch of miniature analog switches, circuits and GIGANTIC metal traces......lol. Thanks, Mr O. for getting me inside one of these "things". Been hearing about 'em for years, but never really knew what they were about. Obviously, they're about old, crusty low-level tech. Somebody needs to bring Chrysler into the 21st century. Apparently, they don't know or realize this entire "TIPM" could be placed on an integrated ciruit (chip), be smaller than a postage stamp (much, much smaller) and cost about $3.25! Like the anti-drug campaign of former first lady Nancy Reagen....."just say no".....to Chrysler.

[@bigkoolaidman123]

I probably smiled wayyy too hard when the wipers worked at the end. EO, you had all of the Jedi inspiration I could muster while watching this! Hahaaa

[@peterhall6656]

This is vintage Professor O !! I'm not a gynaecologist but I'll take a look anyway !! And it worked. Sensational work Eric !! You are the MAN.

[@7daystodieyeahbuddy919]

😀😀 A few years back I did iPhone and iPod repairs, lot's of soldering and circuit board repairs. The only suggestion I could make for any future circuit board repairs, Setup a dedicated workstation with plenty of light, lots of Flux and also find some old circuit boards and practice removing and installing components. That is how you get better at soldering. Much like brake jobs do more get better. The only thing missing from the video was Brake Cleaner, other then that, Good Job. 😀😀

[@reecenewton3097]

And I would add to that, any flux used on electronics MUST be rosin flux. Never acid-core which is used for plumbing and other mechanical repairs. Rosin flux is available in liquid form and paste form: paint a little on the joint to help solder to flow. Clean off excess flux with alcohol when finished.

[@Archetype123]

Thanks for this, Eric. My horn just up and stopped working on my '10 Avenger. Both when pressed on the wheel and and when locking from the key fob. I can only imagine it's the relay. Tracked down which one is for horn, and ordered the correct part for $3. This video, like all of yours, is an absolute gift. Thank you again!

[@craiglangkau8056]

Don't beat yourself up. Even though you were out of your element, you did an awesome job. It's nice to see someone who cares enough about family members to save them money. Keep up the awesome videos and have a Happy New Year, {:-)

[@TortureBot]

Great vid. Took guts to totally dismantle that mess of a TIPM. With your skills, soldering/desoldering is something you could master in a weekend man.

[@10100rsn]

Something to watch out for when testing relays with probes like that, aside from 5v relays vs 12v relays... There is sometimes a diode across the pins of the coil of the relay, either built in or soldered on the board. The diode will sink current only in one direction so if you try to power the coil the wrong way around you may not get a click. So if you don't get a nice click one way, flip it and reverse it and check again. ;)

[@davidrobins4025]

"Put out a prayer request on face book." That's a good start. We all knew it was going to also take some delicate, skilled soldering to complete the job. And of course, the running commentary makes the whole video fun to watch.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

I'm proud of you Eric o your doing an amazing job on getting that solder off the board

[@UN4GTBL]

You are the hero of anyone that has ever had to deal with a malfunctioning TIPM!!!!

[@MoparDan]

As I write this, I thank you Eric for this three-year-old video. I wanted to add DRL's to my '12 Chrysler 200 Touring convertible and wanted to buy a Mopar Accessories kit made for the 200. Come to find out they discontinued this very over priced kit so I went searching for a general kit. I'm a retired electronics technician and I'm determined to add DRL's to my Chrysler such as the GM and Ford intermediates came with. Watching this video may have given me some insight on how to route my mini fuse accessory power tap from the unused fuse cavity 31 in my TIPM to the DRL controller. Also I need to carefully make a T connection to dim the DRL's when the headlights are on at nighttime. I have to be careful because a replacement TIPM for my car the stealerships charge the rip off price of one grand to buy as a new replacement.

[@leoashrae4199]

99% of your de-soldering problem is the tip on your iron. Get a 1/8" wide chisel tip. De-soldering will be much easier.

[@ahadams98375]

Also keeping it clean will help too

[@DaneSaysStuff]

I love repairing these. People get so happy when its done for less than $100 and they get to save almost $1000!

[@mschmitz57]

That thick wick requires a fair bit of heat. A thinner wick would have worked better. The wick needs to be touching the solder connection and the iron is on the wick to draw the solder up into the wick. Remember the wick needs to be hot enough to melt the solder. You didn't leave the iron on the connection long enough. Yeah, the wick gets hot fast so hold it a bit farther up the spool. A narrower wick would work better because it would heat up faster too. The solder sucker worked well for you. Nice job.

[@BigDaddy_MRI]

Mark Schmitz Also, the wick should be pre-fluxed. A 1.5mm wick would have gotten most of the job done if it was flux infused type.

[@franknewling1139]

I always hated the wick on small connections. I have a plug in solder vacuum pump. But this little mechanical seems to work just fine and no tube to drag around behind it. I think I'll get one!

[@bluezr1]

Eric, a tip when desoldering. Apply some lead based solder (60-40) to each joint first. That way it'll mix with the old solder on the board making it easier to remove.

[@robinsonsmotorcycleandauto3929]

Great video and glad to hear the curse word left in lol.

[@LFBsmokealarm]

Really enjoyed this video. Was anyone else holding their breath while Eric was trying to extract the solder? Well done Mr. O.

[@falcon63191]

Greetings from Oregon Mr. O. I know you're into tools... There's a desoldering gun made by Hakko model FR301 you should check out. I bought one a few years ago, and it makes removing components from circuit boards an error free snap. They don't give them away, but they are totally worth the cost.

[@BigDaddy_MRI]

Karl Schultz Absolutely!!! I love mine!!

[@steve_does]

Hey Eric thanks for this video! I’m have the same issue with my 2014 Caravan. So because of this video I’m going to attempt to repair my TIPM. In Canada TIPM is over $1000. Plus programming. So I’m hoping to save myself a few Borden’s. ( Borden is the person on our $100 bill!)

[@rogermason1674]

As someone else said here previously, add a little fresh solder to each joint before you try to desolder each joint.

[@dougtexas]

Since you are meticulous in your daily work, it was reflected in your soldering/de-soldering efforts. There's some tips you can pick up watching others work on those boards, but all-in-all you've got the right work-ethic to get it done. Most modern boards can take the heat far better than any component on the board. Great job, enjoyed the video.

[@haywardsautomotive6156]

Nice job Eric! They do that on purpose just to make $$ b/c there's no reason to make them integral to the PCB. Saved your sister a bunch of $$. Happy New Year!!

[@DavidD-qr2vn]

Integral to the PCB because the socket for the relays cost $0.80 each x 4 x 2,000,000/yr =$6,400,000 / yr additional manufacturing cost. Simple economics.

[@excavatoree]

@@haywardsautomotive6156 They don't care about the customer's 700 dollars, they care about the cost to the company. People blame the engineers, but I'm sure whoever was forced to do it that way didn't like it. He or she could have taken a stand, but eventually, it would come down to "do it as we say or quit." Then they'd assign it to someone else. Bean counters are in charge. No one cares about the customer, who would have paid 2 dollars more per car for those relays to be in sockets, making the company more money.

[@haywardsautomotive6156]

@@excavatoree My point exactly. It was done to make the company $$ plain & simple especially in parts sales. It's been like that since I started working on cars in the 70's & it's not going to change.

[@DavidD-qr2vn]

@@@haywardsautomotive6156 At the time this decision is made, replacement parts costs aren't even being considered. This design / decision was made 2-3 years before the first vehicle to use it hit the market. As @excavatoree noted, it wasn't the engineers decision it was accountants, "the program management" and buyers. And what the dealer charges for replacement parts has absolutely nothing to do with said parts actual manufacturing cost. I'll guarantee you that that TIPM does NOT cost $700 to manufacture. You'd probably be pissed if you knew what they actually paid for it OEM.

[@greebo7857]

@@DavidD-qr2vn It's a well known fact in the industry that if you added up EVERY part that goes into a car at retail the sum would equal about five times what they charge for the whole car, and that's before the labour costs to screw 'em together. Anyone who has worked at a dealership knows that the only real profits come from service and parts, which is of course why they don't want you going to a shop like Eric's. That TIPM probably cost Chrysler less than 50 bucks. They do, however, have to keep an inventory of spares for each car they sell. Here in Oz that used to be seven years. That is a cost they have to bear.

[@lyndonchappell]

I like the way you "boldly go" where most of us would be afraid. Great video.

[@DavidMartinez-eq9pl]

Thanks because i watched your video was able to change my intake

[@myteepatriot4643]

Nicely Done Eric, Was very amused watching this one. I was yelling use the solder sucker when you were using the solder wick but you figured it out. I really did enjoy this Video. I'm a Retired Board Tech and would say you did an excellent job for a newbie. TY for sharing

[@wyattoneable]

Entering into the unknown is a bit scary but as you alluded to, when your working in unfamiliar areas your learning. I enjoyed the video and now your sister has working wipers at a low cost. I hope you enjoyed the cookies. :)

[@staind288]

All videos u say suck, are the ones that I find most valuable. Thanks SMA

[@didtoknan8128]

This video is approved by Ivan.

[@paulkirkland1535]

My thoughts exactly. Ivan IS the man for this kinda thing. He'd have it up and running in no time. Eric O is a genius in his own right,either way it'll be fixed as good as new.

[@Blazer02LS]

NAH, Ivan would have pulled the relay apart, repaired the contacts and reinstalled it... LOL

[@trevorvanbremen4718]

@@Blazer02LS Maybe so, but a REAL enthusiast would have mined the replacement raw materials out of the ground, built the various metal refineries, forges etc and then finally realized that the actual problem was a loose ground wire!

[@leonautomotive1225]

LOL.....This is what makes it fun and great about our job, always learning something new guys and smd micro-soldering will be the future as to computer programming, this guy took the challenge and made mistakes on the way but came out looking like a pro.... Nice job

[@ShainAndrews]

I don't buy it. If it really is your sister the default repair is to wire up the wipers to work in conjunction with the horn and call it a day.

[@SouthMainAuto]

Toggle switch crossed my mind, trust me...

[@29auto30]

we did that to a delivery guys s-10,brakes to horn........LOL

[@CajunShrek]

Bypass the tipm board with a universal relay rail.he done so with his partner on another video.i remember it was on a Jeep commander with a faulty fuel relay in that stupid tipm

[@LayZeeDawg]

@@CajunShrek that's a stellar idea, an aux relay panel, maybe an aftermarket plug and play solution there?

[@ivanblack3234]

On point! Lol

[@jerrybungard7107]

Another fine vid! Applaud your willingness to step outside your comfort zone and end up with a great repair and in the process save your sis some big bucks.You da man!!

[@L1Training]

A very fast and dirty way to de-solder without good tools is to spurt some compressed air on the solder after you melt it,, yes it will blow it all over the place, but it wont stick, it will brush right off.

[@walker68020]

I repair them all the time. use low air pressure and a pin tip blow gun works well.

[@bigtonka82]

Honestly you did a nice job, it takes many many hours to get really good at repairing circuit boards. I'm not an electronics expert either, I learned through trial and error lol

[@mister2000wendell]

I just wanted to help you solder so bad. I watch your videos to learn automotive repair, I know electronics like you know cars.

[@paulhunt598]

I agree with the others that know how to solder. A chisel top would improve the . effort. Tinning the iron tip helps heat transfer. Heat the joint and solder suck the liquid solder. Re-tin and re-suck if it doesn't all

[@paulhunt598]

if the joint doesn't come clean. When all are clean, the relay will pull off with relative ease.

[@chriholt]

Fascinating look inside that module. You scored major brother points with that fix!

[@airbus214airplane]

"That thing's slicker than penguin snot!" 🤣🤣

[@mitchvankesteren6771]

Had an old timer I knew growing up that would say “that’s slicker than owl shit” 😂

[@kb8srx]

I have always fell on the solder sucker.......30 years of soldering, never had any luck with de-soldering braid

[@DiamondMaker69]

Amazing repair. You saved your sister a lot of money. Well done.

[@flatratemaster]

Nice old man glasses😉😎

[@Dr.Westside]

I fixed the instrument cluster in my 2003 Silverado by leaving it plugged in while disassembled and pushing on parts ( resistors diodes ect ) until it came on , using a pencil eraser . Soldered the part and changed the LED lights inside and its been working ever since . 430,000 and still counting .

[@aussiebloke609]

I keep waiting to hear about angry pixies, or an exhortation of "Focus, you fack!"

[@MrLeejan]

After 50+years in electronics. Sometimes I wish I was there to help you. Good luck Eric

[@TheWwong]

No Brake Kleen, Big Nasty, or Ugga Duggas...........still a great video Mr. O.

[@andchip.s]

Great Job Eric, Soldering and De-soldering is a bit of an art, you are of to a great start ! I bet your sister was very pleased, Keep up the great work.

[@ti4go]

Add Solder to remove Solder ;) Just a tip! (sorry, couldn't watch that part)

[@pjv767b5]

My experience as an electronic tech says both desoldering methods work. You have to get the wick hot enough to “wick” up the solder and it is a pain in the butt to use especially in tight spaces. So I prefer the “ solder sucker” and seldom used the wicking approach. All in all you did a great job on your first attempt.

[@ramirofigueroa3370]

Yes they do fail all the time I have had 5 TIPM replaced on my 2008 Jeep patriot and Chrysler is fully aware that they have faulty TIPM most of the problems come from bad grounds in the harnesses

[@robc8468]

I spray all the wire harness ground posts I can find on my Mopars with WD-40 twice a year cheap insurance for Michigan winters.

[@pjchris90]

A good brother trying to help a sister. Well done that man.

[@robc5955]

Well as ever amazing vid, but kind of demonstrates all that is wrong with the whole environmental argument, we build cars to emit less (in simple terms) then make them disposable by putting stuff that wears out in stupid places, so the whole car gets chucked @ a point in its economic life, for the sake of a cheap component buried in an expensive part, I really would love an environmental expert to explain this cause we all know very few cars actually get properly recycled.

[@rfmerrill]

Auto makers found a way to set things up so that they "help the environment" but end up selling more cars. Real effective environmental legislation would encourage retrofitting older cars with more efficient and less-emitting powertrains instead of just junking them (since the carbon footprint of manufacturing a car is significant).

[@rfmerrill]

Between the 60s and the 90s we made leaps and bounds in reducing the environmental impact of gasoline-powered cars. A car from the late 90s puts out a tiny fraction of the emissions of a car from the 60s. At this point however we really need to consider what we're spending to get the tiny improvements we are--especially considering how the escalating safety standards are often at odds with efficiency and emissions due to adding more weight to the vehicle.

[@davidruggles996]

Thanks for the great video. I followed in your footsteps and fixed the TIPM in my wife's Wrangler... The power locks had quit.