Clamp Knurling Tool, Introduction

[@carryitaround]

gosh im glad your back... your practical approach is what i like..

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks.

[@andrewkrepsky5692]

Tom I really enjoy your style of explanation of what you are doing. Where I work, if you can make a (test part) you are considered a machinest. They give you a dollar fifty raise, and never require anything else from you, but if you show further interest, they require you to make good parts or be written up. I am implementing some of your techniques starting today. Just seeing your approach has given me new confidence in what I am doing in our maintenance shop, as I have no one else that is really a machinest to get advice I can be confident in. Thanks for the real world videos, Keep up the good work. Andy

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks Andy. It's good to hear that the videos are helping someone out. Tom

[@cosimomarotta9552]

Hi Tom, happy to follow a new project of yours again. And one day, if you want, please show us the features and best aspect of your Hardinge and tell why those toolroom lathes are so expensive and precise.

[@TomsTechniques]

I did a video showing the threading features on the Hardinge. Other than that, it's pretty much like any other lathe, except for the extreme precision. Tom

[@spclark77]

Hi Tom. Love your videos....you are a GREAT teacher. I finished my clamp knurling tool a couple weeks ago and have used it a few times. It is awesome and works so much better than the old 'push' style I've been using. Thanks a lot for the plans and videos.

[@TomsTechniques]

+spclark77 Excellent. It's always good to hear when someone makes use of the drawings and videos. Hope you had fun building it as well. Tom

[@pattime2laugh599]

It took awhile but I finished my knurling tool. I had the aluminum body anodized so I could use heli-coils in the threads. I had some scrap 4140HT to make the die wheel holders with then nitrided. Makes diamond style knurls easily. Very nice. Excellent video's by Tom to explain everything. I started machining Aug 2020 so this was a good winter lesson.

[@TomsTechniques]

It's always good to hear the success stories. The Heli-coils are a good idea, did you go to a fine thread? Also make sure your knurls are chamfered on the corners, the sharp cornered ones can dig in while feeding.

[@pattime2laugh599]

@@TomsTechniques Good point on chamfering first. I was having problems feeding. Not exactly sure I am going thru the set-up of the knurling tool properly. I've been tightening it up on the spot that needs knurled. I need to learn how to zero it up and know how deep to make the knurls based on thread pitch of the tool.

[@pattime2laugh599]

@@TomsTechniques Hi Tom, I took a job last year where I had to learn to use a 16" Grizzly lathe and an old knee mill. I have had a lot of fun learning and making things. Your videos were a lot of help. I was going to list the most helpful ones but there are too many. Sorry, I didn’t answer your question before. I used fine thread heli-coils to have the better control on depth. I have a question about how to use the knurling tool as I am not sure I am doing it correctly. I've read in other places about how the diameter of the part has to be a certain calculated diameter. Is this correct? Will this affect the knurling diamond pattern? The other question is when to set the depth of the knurling dies? While over the part or off the part? When off the part it is hard to judge the depth even with the fine thread screw pitch. I've learned the hard way it doesn't seem to take much depth to get the knurl. If it is off the part, then when the tool is fed over the part, does the speed have to be constant? Will a pause or slow down affect it? I hope you, your family and retirement are doing well. Sincerely, Pat

[@Lierofox]

Welcome back Tom! I've absorbed quite a bit of knowledge from watching you work. Knowing there's no 1 right way to do a particular machining operation has really helped me get comfortable and confident in learning how to use a mill.

[@TomsTechniques]

That's what makes machining fun. :)

[@russtuff]

I'm glad you're back! Your videos are a real treat.

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks.

[@chucktipton9596]

Hey Tom, Glad to see you back. Thanks for the knurling tool drawings. I'm tired of making parts with inconsistent knurls. I'll be making chips along with you. Thanks, Chuck Tipton

[@TomsTechniques]

Have fun.

[@TommyBoy7Heads]

I'm so glad you're doing this. I've been toying with the idea of building a scissors type knurling tool as you described, but I didn't know about this design that you proposed. This looks much more rigid. I'll be building along. Thanks very much, Tom!

[@leopugh]

8 years ago tommy boy

[@jimmilne19]

I've downloaded the drawings and am moving into my new shop this coming Monday, so I'll be warming up too with this project. I'm happy your sharing this series with us. Eager student here; ready to go.

[@TomsTechniques]

Wow, a new shop and a new project!

[@RaysGarage]

Hey Tom, Looking forward to this project! Great to see you back in the shop! Ray

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks Ray.

[@mattpalmerchuck]

Been waiting anxiously for this. Can't wait for the rest of the series.

[@TomsTechniques]

Check back later tonight for the first video. Tom

[@tzkelley]

Looks like a great series; I'll be building along.

[@wallacesaan]

Me too! I have the traditional 'bump' type knurler, a nice old Armstrong one, but have never been happy with the results, so I'm really looking forward to making and using this one. --Greg

[@TomsTechniques]

I should have the first video on the knurl holder up tonight. It's all recorded and edited, but I had forgotten how long it takes to process on my s l o w computer. Time for something from this century I think. Tom

[@oink079]

I have been looking forward to this. This knurl tool looks to be a big improvement over the pinch type I made about 10 years ago. Thank you for sharing, I will be following along.

[@TomsTechniques]

Yes, this is a big improvement over the scissors type. The videos for the knurl holders are being uploaded now. Tom

[@charlesmarlin6632]

Tom happy to see you are making more videos!! :-) Very excited to watch the video for the Clamp Knurling Tool

[@TomsTechniques]

Hopefully you'll be building as well, but even if you don't the tutorials have a lot of good information and tips in them. Tom

[@charlesmarlin6632]

Toms Techniques YES plan to build your Clamp Knurling Tool Design :-) Here is link my last project for the Lathe ~ Radius Knob Turner: ctmprojectsblog.wordpress.com/2014/11/07/lathe-radius-cutting-experiment/ :-) CHEERS!!

[@dmcarpman]

welcome back i have just downloaded the plans will be a good project to to go with my small lathe a do away with the knurling tool i have.

[@TomsTechniques]

Great! Download the drawing for the knurl holder again, because I tweaked a couple of the dimensions. I mentioned it in the video but I'm having a hard time getting it uploaded to KZbin. Tom

[@dmcarpman]

many thanks for the info drawing to hand so marked it on it thanks again. regards Martin

[@davidaarons2488]

Very nice Tom, I think I will scale this down to work on my Sherline lathe. I am just a beginning hobby machinist,but I am a retired auto tech so I understand mechanical things.I am going to try and follow you along and make one. Thanks for the knowledge that you share. Dave Aarons

[@TomsTechniques]

Dave, If you are going to downsize, you may want to drop down to 1/2 x 3/16 x 3/16 EPV series knurls. Tom

[@lbcustomknives]

Looking forward to making this Tom

[@TomsTechniques]

It should be a very worthwhile project.

[@MaDeuce80]

Nice project. Thanks again for your knowledge.

[@TomsTechniques]

You are welcome.

[@Patroand]

Very nice to show this to us. I've already downloaded the drawings to follow your instructions. Warm regards.

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks Robert.

[@tombellus8986]

Can't wait-------- thanks for some nice videos

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks. I'd have two more on the list if KZbin would get their act together and finish processing them. It's been a full day since they were uploaded. :( Tom

[@theradarguy]

Tom, I am really enjoying this series and will be duplicating it when I finish my current project. As this device is intended for diamond knurls, when you feel inclined, I would like to hear your insight on straight knurls with maybe a demo. Thanks for your contributions. Russ

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks Russ, This tool works equally well with either diamond or straight knurls. I'll give a demo on how to use it when the project is complete, but the procedure is the same for either type. Tom

[@outsidescrewball]

Hi Tom, Looking forward to the build and operation of the unit. IMO, it would have been helpful to a "newbie" to have shown a (downloaded) photo of the two knurling tools that you described rather than your attempted descriptions. I am past the newbie stage but still remember my quest (confusion) for learning/understanding. Also, can you mention the mfg. of the commerical tool, just curious! ATB Chuck

[@TomsTechniques]

Hi Chuck. I'll go into more detail on the knurls when I demonstrate how to set up the tool. The knurling tool that I have is called the "Best Yet" and it is (was) made by SPI. Don't think it's available any more. Tom

[@pitstoptr3]

Looking forward to this. Thanks

[@TomsTechniques]

The first part of the knurl holder series is processing now and should be uploaded later tonight.

[@BigMjolnir]

Tom, I'm glad you are doing more videos. I can see why this design is superior to the other two you mentioned. It looks like a mill will be required so I'll just watch for now, though it might be possible to modify things a little so I could build a variant with my South Bend 9" lathe. I have the milling attachment for it, but it's pretty limited in what can be done on it...though I'm thinking of ways to increase the size range of parts. My milling attachment should handle the knurl holders ok, but the frame they go into is looking too big. I'm wondering if it could be circular so I could turn it? I'll see how your build goes and think about it. Thanks for the time sharing your expertise! -- Mike

[@TomsTechniques]

I'm not even going to use the mill for the shape of the body. That will be an exercise in band sawing and belt sanding and the holes can be done in a drill press. You'll still need to mill the slots, but that could be done on the lathe. Tom

[@westweld]

Hey Tom I was just on your website looking for the machinist vise for my rotary table prints and I couldn't find them anywhere haha......great job on these videos the knurling tool is by far the best I've ever used especially for my 36 inch lathe.....do you use autocad?

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks! It's always good to hear about succesful builds of the knurling tool. There are a lot of them out there. The tool was 3D modeled and detailed in SolidWorks.

[@westweld]

@@TomsTechniques always wanted to try solid works I use autocad but that exploded view you do is pretty cool

[@vvet7625]

Hi Tom, Glad to hear from you again. I really enjoy your videos. I have a Bridgeport mill in my garage and now just learning to machine metal. I plan to do a simple project of some kind and this may be the one to start with. I don't have a lathe yet but really like your new project. I need a DRO for the mill but know nothing about them. Would you be interested in making a DRO video? I'm thinking of getting a DRO Pro setup. Thanks

[@TomsTechniques]

A DRO is a very useful accessory for the mill (or lathe) because since location is taken directly from the table, it completely eliminates backlash issues. Not sure a video would be useful for the operation of a DRO since they all have unique methods of operation. I could show how mine operates, but it's 20 years old so not many would care. They all do pretty much the same thing, so selection of one is pretty much based on cost and quality. Just find one you can afford and check out reviews. Tom

[@holmes230536]

Tom, I have a little Taig roller skate lathe, (that's what I call it) I already have a floating scissor type knurler, my question is how do you apply equal pressure from the two separate feed screws to get an identical knurl with both wheels, do you use eye, what system do you use or how do you go about it, I like the design and might make a scaled down one, Just curious,......Edmund......

[@TomsTechniques]

The tool floats due to backlash in the cross slide screw, so it's self centering. I run the knurls in until they touch the work, then center the cross slide in the middle of the backlash. That allows plenty of float for the knurls to put equal pressure on the work. Tom

[@holmes230536]

Toms Techniques Ok Tom, that makes sense, appreciated,

[@milspecmachine]

Hi Tom thank you for sharing this video man I want to build one of my own 😄 Do you know where can I get the plans ? Thanks again Tom

[@TomsTechniques]

+Milspecmachine If you watch the video, there is a link in the upper left corner form 3:50 on. Tom

[@MaturePatriot]

That link is no longer in the video. Any other source?

[@CompEdgeX2013]

Should be a cool project. Will follow along for sure. ;-) Colin

[@TomsTechniques]

Great. Now if I can just get the videos to upload...

[@tomasobamela]

Tom can you please show the print for the frame?

[@TomsTechniques]

All of the drawings are available for download on the tomstechniques website.

[@samrodian919]

Tom please can you tell me if these drawings are still available in 2020 as I know you did this series a good few years ago and how I go about obtaining them. Manny thanks, Samrodian. England.

[@TomsTechniques]

All the project drawings are on my website, tomstechniques.com.

[@jackpaulson5834]

I see some of the parts are to be case hardened. Can you give us some indication of the technique you are planning to use so that we can order the materials? (I used Kasenit in high school, but it seems to have disappeared due to confusion about cyanide).

[@TomsTechniques]

Kasenit is still available. I get it from McMaster Carr. You can also get case hardening compounds from gunsmith suppliers like Brownell's or Midway. The parts are small enough to do with a torch. Tom

[@jackpaulson5834]

Toms Techniques A Kasenit search at McMaster-Carr now leads to a glove page. Brownell has their own case hardening compound, but the composition(POTASSIUM NITRATE,CHROMIUM (III) OXIDE is different from the original Kasenit (POTASSIUM FERROCYANIDE, SODIUM FERROCYANIDE, CARBON BLACK). I'm not sure how the Brownell's works with no carbon. Midway carries Cherry Red, which has the same ingredients as Brownell's private label material. I'd run across this before, which is what prompted my question. The last can of true Kasenit to sell on eBay went for $67/lb plus shipping after 18 bids.

[@TomsTechniques]

Jack Paulson McMaster Carr doesn't advertize by brand, just search for case hardening compound. The heat and quench stuff was Kasenit last time I ordered it. Tom

[@jackpaulson5834]

The surface hardening MSDS is Cherry Red now. Oh well. Thank you for doing this project. I have the armstrong style knurler, and agree with your opinion of that!! I built the Lautard style scissors knurler, and am not too happy with that either. Your project looks like it addresses the issues of both these styles. I'm looking forward to making it.

[@koetschkid8733]

Hi Tom, Great videos. I was just wondering what software you use to create your technical drawings. They look very professional and well thought out. Keep up the good work. Chris

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks Chris. I use a 3D CAD package called SolidWorks for modeling and detailing, the same one I use at work. Remember though that CAD software is nothing more than an aid. as in Computer "Aided" Design. Those same drawings could be created with pencil and paper. It would just take more time. Tom

[@CreaseysWorkshop]

Couldn't you save a few parts by mounting one of the wheels directly to the frame?

[@TomsTechniques]

+John Creasey If that were the case, One of the knurl holders would need to be extra long to make up for the offset of the other, and that much overhang would compromise the rigidity of the tool. The way it is now, the knurls holders are identical, which means one less part and the overhang is minimal. The knurls also need to be mounted in hardened steel, which the frame is not. Tom

[@CreaseysWorkshop]

Thanks, that makes sense. Great project!

[@TomsTechniques]

+John Creasey Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. Tom

[@roleic7246]

Hi I just saw your video. I love your videos, I love your home page with downloadable drawings. Brilliant. However, I don't see the advantage of your knurling tool design over a scissor type tool which is self centring ensuring identical pressure on both wheels without adjustment except the single pressure screw. Your design needs to be carefully centred using 3 settings: the cross slide lead screw and the two set screws on both wheels. Specially if I have eliminated backlash on the cross slide lead screw and have a short piece in the chuck then there is not much flex or self centring. Then it might get rather fiddly. If your tool would be freely sliding in the cross slide direction then only 1 wheel would need a set screw while the other could remain permanently fixed to the sliding bracket. Then the whole thing would be truly self centring too like the scissor type.

[@TomsTechniques]

rol eic This design (not mine) is much more rigid than a scissors type knurler. I have a commercial version of this knurler and use it all the time. It's simple to set up and due to the presence of backlash in the cross slide, very easy to center. You can't appreciate the rigidity of this tool until you've seen it form a knurl on a 2" diameter piece of stainless in one pass. Tom