Classic Lexus CHECK ENGINE after T-Belt Job??

A week after the parking lot timing belt replacement, the 94 Lexus ES300 threw a Check Engine light!
Owner is once again wondering if the car is getting unreliable, so let's see what the P0115 and P0125 codes mean, and try to determine the root cause. Was this related to the timing belt job?
Enjoy!
Ivan

[@arcburn3364]

I was telling my grandson. You can't drive for free. If you drive a car after it's paid off, or bought cheap because of age or high milage, you have to decide if those occasional repairs and inconveniences are worth not having a payment. Since I've retired and have time, my hobby has been maintaining our vehicles and some family members' vehicles. Thus I really enjoy watching quality channels on KZbin like Pine Hollow Diagnostics.

[@johnschuler3269]

Yep. When I was a full-time Engineer, then Harried Business Consultant, I got a new "Business Vehicle" every few years ... no TIME. NOW I am retired and have time to burn ... so to speak. My Wife's old '92 Van would have been crushed years before I rescued it. Most recently for (all together) 3 bad grounds, 2 dirty connectors & one crusty solder joint inside the Body Control Module (about 6 hours of diags & remedy on my part. 1st clue ... no Instruments no chime. THAT would have been a "Junk it" for any normal shop ... even changing the BCM @ $400 + many diag hours ... ... would have resulted in ... "no fix, sir". As for my "New" 2003 Lexus RX300 ... bought it a year or so ago for a song ... nearly pristine with only 112K miles on the clock. Previous owner traded it in for a new RX350 and CarFax showed good care. Just did the 120K service myself ... So far, my parts costs ~$1,200 ... Dealer ?? About $7,000 So with time & hassle & cost no "regular worker" could afford to even own it. Just one AFR (only failure before I changed all 3 O2s ... open heater wire) would have been ~ $700. Best to all. John in the NW

[@moviemania1137]

This is why I subbed to Ivan. He's a stand up do right man! We need to import more young men like this. Too many flakes who would have ripped this woman off.

[@htownblue11]

Napa needs to sponsor South Main Auto, but if they ever sponsored Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics they’d never have to supply any parts cause Ivan is a mechanical wizard who never needs parts….hahahaha. Well done yet again.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

LOL! I like Napa LEGEND batteries :)

[@GlycerinZ]

IF they sponsored SMA and PHAD, i'd only buy from them and nowhere else

[@pczapp827]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics You would --their made by Penn Battery with one of 3 plants in PA. That one is the largest in the world. Legend/Penn are good.

[@mrb1864]

they could supply him cable ties and elec tape lol .

[@adotintheshark4848]

at least if he did need parts from Napa, they're usually not Chinese crap.

[@paulsullivan6392]

The old fix it with a zip tie move. Heat and age are hard on those connectors. Well done and a great way to treat the customer. Oh, and no tach would drive me nuts...just because.

[@jyao5409]

I did a zip tie fix for my 21 yo mazda mpv on the oil pressure switch connector.

[@volvo09]

I can't stand no tach... Even with autos. Every no tach car i've had to date i've found the tach cluster and swapped it in.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

It's sticky...just tap the dash...but the needles have lost their illuminating ability haha

[@stealthg35infiniti94]

One of the drawbacks of working on old cars, brittle connectors. They are almost guaranteed to snap, crackle or pop, if you touch them.

[@macdonaldsmotorworks]

stuff like this I do for free... and bill it to my "marketing" budget. This owner will say - "Ivan did a quick follow up and fixed my car after... " it's worth the future customer you'll get from this lexus owner spreading your good work...

[@chekelley6861]

That’s the only problem working on older cars. You touch it once and you’re married!🤣

[@moviemania1137]

This! It's called the "ever since" club. "Ever since you did the timing belt, the wipers don't work anymore" 😌

[@bigdaddymak1439]

That's a customer problem not an older car problem

[@lovetolearn5253]

Lol, this body shop I do diag/repair work for called me and said a check engine lights on and the customer says it wasnt when it came in. I go inspect the situation and it has a stuck roller lifter that whipped out the cam lobe (yes it's the 5.7). The customer still blames the body shop. The body shop was only doing a custom paint job no accident.

[@altonbarbee8864]

Replace the connector. Can't cost but a few bucks.

[@awc7772000]

Nothing ever said was more true than this lol

[@johnminor2496]

Ivan. You are a fine technician and an even better man in the business of serving your customers. If I did not live in Arkansas, I would be bringing my business to you. Thank you for another fine video.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Thanks for the kind words John 🙂

[@michaeltrinidad1217]

You have to expect plastic connectors after 27 years are going to be brittle and break very easily.

[@JOMaMa..]

That’s the way I would handle it...good job taking care of the customer 👍

[@unclejoe6811]

The joys of old cars, brittle wiring connectors and broke customers...plus you have road salt

[@Ianf1x]

I would say no charge. It's rubbish doing work for free. But I find it bring more work. Honesty does pay.😁

[@arthurfricchione8119]

Way to go Ivan. No big deal no parts required another happy customer. Ivan thanks for sharing 👍

[@duanedonaldson2262]

I lived in Japan and ran my Mobile business for 20 years, JDM Toyota/Lexus of this era could have all 3 different DTC plugs, you could even use DTC plug #2 to flash the CEL for codes. Thanks for another awesome fix.

[@4WDIESEL1]

hard to find honest and honorable people today, very hard. well done Ivan.

[@additudeobx]

With those connectors that have slightly broken or limp lock tabs, I have mixed up a small amount of 5-minute epoxy and then with a toothpick wipe the tab at the break with a tiny little amount of epoxy to form a seam on the break. Use another toothpick to bias the tab open so it will latch when the epoxy hardens. Don't need to use much, just be delicate.

[@dennisbailey4296]

Thanks so much for letting us see what you're doing on the scanner it is so much better!!! 👍👍 All best from Canada

[@SK-2ill]

Heat shrink tube is also good for broken connectors, give it a shot.

[@neilmurphy845]

Love these old car's there so reliable and simple

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Lexus has some fancy tech like that cluster that becomes annoying with age 😭

[@neilmurphy845]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Yah do people still rebuild them .

[@Hybriddiag]

Man. .you are keeping these old gold on the road.love your work

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Thanks Suhail!

[@agostinodibella9939]

It’s hard to prevent old plastic connectors from cracking. Nice repair Ivan!

[@robertmedina6875]

Great video Ivan! I can’t wait to see the next video!!!!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

You will enjoy the LABOR DAY SPECIAL ;)

[@aldrinalmario1513]

Great diagnosis and simple to understand the repair! Tackled a similar issue of crumbling plastic connectors on all 4 Coil Packs on a 06 Mazda 3, threw misfire codes intermittently as the pins were shorting out due to engine movement, so I just taped and plugged each individual wire onto each pin on each coil pack while waiting for a set of replacement connectors ordered on line. Replaced all connectors and hopefully they last..

[@gillgetter3004]

I’ve done that zip tie repair on connections, push locks break etc. usually works👍

[@vwwrenchie314]

Customer is #1. Good call to look after them Ivan.😎👍🇨🇦

[@lifekludger]

Anoter great fix. But what's up with the gauges.. I didn't see the Tach working .

[@on-site4094]

This world needs more Ivan’s taking care there customers 👍

[@glenncerny8403]

Good customer service. I do prefer a criss cross tie wrap over tape on a loose connector.

[@smithraymond09029]

A 1994 with an OBDII connector? That's pretty cool. I know some makes and models were full OBDII a bit early in 1995. Never knew about the 1994.

[@josecondemarin9586]

Great diagnostic skills. You are a very honest man. Good video thanks 😊

[@rhpham2]

Love this video, as I have an Avalon with the same engine. Wish their was a mechanic like you I can trust in Houston.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Scotty Kilmer used to live there... ;)

[@rhpham2]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Yes he did, I saw him all the time on the freeways. Outspoken guy to strike a conversation with. Learned alot from him.

[@rickilee961]

My Buick did that once I cut the plug off put two separate terminals on it she was fixed my plug was melted on the bottom and it actually took me awhile to find it

[@donb1661]

Glad you went with the zip tie vs tape.

[@sirsweetness8332]

It’s back again!! Same Lexus. NOT a PHAD comeback….

[@donbox8073]

Good thinking Ivan! You are considerate and your customer will be happy with that decision.

[@weshawkins7165]

Good call on the repair.

[@mnmarlin6074]

Excellent repair - NPR and no cost to the customer! Double bonus!

[@sewing1243]

The problem with old cars is that they are old cars. Old cars with modern electronics are even worse that old cars from the era before the manufacturers started using all the electronic components. And the adage "You touch it, you own it" applies whenever dealing with the general public and fixing their stuff.

[@miscbits6399]

That's highly debatable. Old vars without electronics were fiddly and needed near-constant babying Electronics is far more reliable than moving parts and the single most unreliable part of the electronics is the connectors. Those have improved in leaps and bounds over the last 30 years. It wasn't that long ago that non-waterproofed Molex were the norm in the engine bay and for lights, etc or that brittle wiring which would work-harden and fracture was common The worst reliability cars available today are on par with the best Japan was offering in the mid 1970s. We've been utterly spoiled by reliability since ~1985 when breakerless ignitions and electronic timing advance (instead of vacuum) became commonplace. Disk brakes are simpler and more reliable than drums whilst also being easier to fix (who remembers 70s muscle cars with milkbottle tops for brakes that would fade out before stopping the vehicle? As well as constant brake adjustments?) The ~1990 widespread adoption of fuel injection eliminated fiddly and fussy carburettors. When was the last time you had a locked jet or a vapor lock? Or had to ride the choke to keep the engine alive until it had to warm up? Car reliability can be seen in the fact that there _aren't_ very many repair shops around anymore. It used to be that virtually every gas station had a servicing bay which was always busy. That's long gone I'll take my car which runs without much fuss up to 100k miles any day over the one which was in for adjustments every 1500 and would eat an engine plus 3 clutches by the same milage (not a slushbox fan, but I get why people like them)

[@sewing1243]

@@miscbits6399 The gas station service bays went away because the vehicles became too complex for the basic mechanic to repair with out expensive diagnostic tools and training. The pre-electronics cars may have needed more fiddling, but anyone with half a brain and with basic knowledge of how to use hand tools could work on them and successfully keep them running.

[@davidclapham1066]

Generous and honest plan regarding charges to customer. It will pay dividends in the long run. P.S. Who on earth gives the 'Thumbs down' ? They seem to be on all the finest posts I see online. It really makes no sense, I can't understand why.

[@docfeelgood111]

Great job man glad to see other technicians trying to treat their customers like they'd want their family treated. It sucks doing work for free but they'll brag about your work to friends and you'll make more in the long run with all the great things people tell others...

[@johnkirk5202]

A 1994 vehicle is 28 years old when this video was made. After 28 years on the road I would kind of expect any make or model vehicle may have a multitude of issues from minor to major. I would say that if a timing belt replacement and a connector that is loose are the extent of the issues it is a testament to the quality of Toyota vehicles from the mid 1990s.

[@mrb1864]

On older cars it pretty normal get couple issues from doing bigger jobs. Just tell them old crusty elec connectors needed cleaning/fettling due to age fatigue . In my area i do a lot of older cars and between stuff already half broken from previous work or falls to bits as soon as shine a light on it you got more than initial fault/repair to deal with . I actually upped hourly rate by 10 bucks purely help cover this sort of drama and give customers some inbuilt insurance on no unforeseen charge to resolve problems like these . Done some euro trash last month and plastic fuse box latch and battery cover latches fell off with most gentle of touches, quite a few elec connectors almost impossible deal with without risk of creating problems so it a must have some inbuilt costing to keep you in business and customer bills closer to known charges/quotes .

[@alexandercahoulan6583]

my clip broke for my ECT sensor on my accord v6 2007. I just double check it now and again to make sure its staying connected. Those plastic clips brake SO easily. No issues (knock on wood).

[@GhettoWagon]

Is that one of those serviceable connector bodies that u can pop out w/o having to crimp new pins? Love when those break on my old GM's I broke so many as a kid then was so happy later on in life to fix them with terminal release tools.

[@edwinlomonaco6754]

Agree with everything you state on how to handle it with the customer except when you say "it's totally reliable". I would never make that kind of claim on a vehicle that age. It's stoll a high mileage vehicle. And it's old by all standards. It's impossible to promise reliability on that vehicle. Anything from an abs sensor to a light bulb could fail at any moment.

[@waleyefish9026]

I have kept cars 17 years, 20 years. You are totally correct, anything can happen. You just can't say that to the Public or your family. Usually when they did go it was major rusted frame, rusted sub-frame. All plastic and rubber parts petrified.👍

[@NoWr2Run]

Very good of you SIR IVAN, I had to use zip ties on a few of my connectors, THE HEAT KILLS THEM.

[@simonilett998]

Nice one Ivan. That P0125 can be deceiving. When I saw it I said to myself straight away, 'that might actually be related to an o2 sensor issue' then 'boom' you mentioned the o2 info on Autodata..lol...I had a similar instance but with P0125 + P0173 code to diag for a customer with a Mitsubishi 6G74. My customer was quoted by another shop to replace the thermostat and CTS but both seemed to work perfectly fine. The shop completely ignored the P0173 code, and went with the generic obd description of a P0125, which turns out is also not correct for these Mitsi's. I noticed a lot of oil had been leaking from the valve covers, all over the B2S1 sensor. It turned out B2S1 was completely dead/fixed lean, but didn't throw any codes related to an o2 sensor problem. Strangely the o2 heater element was still good, but even after fully warming up the engine and adding propane, B2S1 only made around 15mV and also no reaction on fuel trims, STFTB2 would stay pegged full rich. B2S2 was sitting at 900mV constantly, obviously not so great for the 🐈. Anyway, a new B2S1 solved the issue. I also sorted out the leaky valve covers prior to fitting a new B2S1, or it probably would have occured again in no time🤣👍🇦🇺

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Excellent diagnostics 👌

[@simonilett998]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Yeh, that one turned out to be a good learning experience, and a I gained a happy, loyal customer. A great example of 'Test, Don't Guess'👍🇦🇺

[@lvsqcsl]

I remember friends of mine had those timing belts changed every 50-60,000 miles on their Toyotas back in the day. I thought OBD II started in 1996? I guess Toyota was ahead of the game. Great video!

[@jonnygg6594]

Gotta get the hot key words in the title Ivan. Restoration of ECT on classic vintage Lexus. Meta :)

[@Gizmo42Rodeo]

Must be pretty common. Had something happen to the one on my Rodeo while in another state. Didnt have time to diagnose there so had to drive home with it reading -30 deg (poor cat converters). Sensor didnt fix it, turned out to be connector. NGK had a kit with new sensor and new connector. That solved it.

[@johnschuler3269]

Well Done! As for those AFR Sensor Codes ... seems you might have an "OBD 1.5 and your analyzer got confused. All of us who own older cars and fix them (most of the time) ourselves, do understand the dilemma. I have a '92 Caravan (OBD-1 (count the blinks) and a 2003 RX300- OBD2 ($100 Scanner), but great for preventive maintenance. Hopefully you charged a fair price (and got paid) when you already went "above and beyond" on the Timing Belt. As the owner of your own shop ... YOU can do what is best empathically. Your decision to "eat" the diagnostic & taping cost of the "jostled" ECT connector was ... in the longer term ... a GOOD ONE. THE KEY IS: ... to fully explain to your customer WHY & HOW connector tabs do dry out and break, then vibration "walks the connector "OUT", etc. THAT way you have at least 3 more good customers coming to you soon ... plus you will sleep well at night. A Lexus Dealer would probably have charged $1,200+for that Timing Belt & Water Pump ... THEN (later ... NOT RELATED, MAAM ... an hour or two @ $140 per hour, plus $30 or so for a new pigtail, plus $80 or so for an ECT Sensor. "Sorry, Lady, that ECT was bad and it also needed a new PigTail. Good Job. John in the Northwest. BTW ... If you get one of those PayPal links for your posts we can ALL send you a few bucks. e.g. See Eric O's PayPal link at South Main Auto. Much easier than Patreon.

[@davidthomits544]

He’s a good technician does nice work

[@reallynotbob6]

I would have covered the cost of the fix too. Either zip ties or tape. Should work good if you can't get a new connector for it.

[@AP9311]

Not bad of a job, ivan! But if it was me, I'd go junk yard and find a pigtail and replace it with butt connectors and heat it to close them up and tape it! If you bumped it during the timing belt job, it could happen, but you made the call not to charge them for the connector fix. Awesome video!

[@unclemarksdiyauto]

Another happy customer! They will tell there friends!

[@andrewvillanueva3722]

Love my lexus ls430 2001. Original engine and transmission. Original starter and alternator. Just had it 3rd timing belt kit installed and new spark plugs. It has 328,000 miles. Just regular maintenance brake pads and fluids. Every mechanic who has worked on it said that it would easily go over 500,000 miles if I continue with regular maintenance.

[@fmbfla]

Good find and good practice I use a real small drop of super glue on the edge of the connector when I find one "IF" a pigtail is unavailable

[@curtgomes]

Great video Ivan. I have an old Lexus and I believe it will last for many more years. These cars are amazing.

[@jackwood8307]

Thanks Ivan, your channel is like Zen for a lot of us. 👍

[@edwardhenry7119]

You rock guy, timing belt in parking lot, woww.

[@agmc4me]

As always you did the right thing.

[@PhillipBailey]

Usually before I start a significant job like a timing belt I'll take a minute to do a network code scan or at least scan the PCM for codes. If it had the ECT code in history then it was a preexisting problem. If not then it was caused by the manipulation during the service work. I would not charge the customer either in this case. Customer satisfaction. This is why I like the versus edge since it automatically keeps a scan report each time attached to the work order history. Good job.

[@mmichaeldonavon]

Great decision, Ivan, not to charge for this "discrepancy." "Stuff happens." :-) Cost of doing business. The lady will love you for this. :-) And, rightfully so.

[@RJ-vb7gh]

Funny, I knew you would wind up with a zip tie.... which is my favorite go to with old connectors. Otherwise 5 out of my 6 cars are now legitimately historic... between 27 and 54 years old and most of the cars I work on are just old... and you can bet if you touch anything under the hood at least 4 other things break or come loose. So yes you might have sneezed on that connector or a random moth sat on it and it's easiest to just eat the fix. Been there and done that. And at a friend's shop, I watched a young mechanic snap off a $200.00 sensor while replacing a hose... the kid tried to hide his mistake, but I told my friend and yes, he ate the cost of the sensor. It all goes under "goodwill" and it's part of owning a shop. There's a big difference between working by the hour and running a business.

[@leoashrae4199]

Hey Ivan: Do you think the code documentation might be screwed up(?) What I mean is, for example, when I was subscribed to All-Data I had a problem with a customers 2014 Yukon. I was getting a P0101 mass air flow range/performance code but, when I went to the on-line All Data code description, it went on and on about charging system performance(?) When I searched for the code descriptions for charging system and alternator trouble, I found the P0620 code description with the exact same text as the P0101 code! So I went back to the original problem code (for mass air flow performance) and ultimately diagnosed it as a bad mass air flow sensor. My problem was that the All Data code description was bogus! It was clearly a typo/misprint where someone had pasted the P0620 symptoms and troubleshooting in for the P0101 problem. Just saying, this isn't the first rabbit hole I've been led down because of documentation errors. In the case of this Lexus, I can't see the correlation between oxygen sensor performance and an out of range engine coolant temperature sensor. Glad it didn't take you long to figure out it was a rabbit hole.

[@zx8401ztv]

The cable tie is a good quick fix :-D The long fix is to order the plug pig tail and wait forever. Thankyou for all your videos ivan, i appreciate the trouble you go to. Also you are very honest with your customers and do the best you can. No i'm not payed to say that, is the cheque in the post ha ha :-D

[@throttlebottle5906]

pigtail is likely available through local box parts stores.

[@sirsweetness8332]

I had a P0128 code on a 1997 Avalon and it was the wiring on the B1S1. A/F sensor.

[@metoon3092]

Great video Ivan ! I believe, the cause of this connector failure; the customer had it at a local auto parts store, and the kid employee performed his parking lot pin-point diagnostics, and cracked the connector. Yep, that's what happened .

[@buckhorncortez]

Wow...psychic. Can you give me next week's winning Power Ball number..? Otherwise, you're just making it up based on personal prejudices...

[@metoon3092]

@@buckhorncortez personal experience. proven _EVERYDAY_ I work at one of the Auto Parts stores.

[@Graham_Wideman]

@@buckhorncortez He IS the kid! :-)

[@bobbydelamar606]

2 hours, I thought I was early. My notifications got turned off!!

[@DJJustyJust]

Would it be possible to obtain a new plug for the broken one. Just curious the other way to fix things like this?

[@willefixit]

nice fix

[@edwardhenry7119]

I have the same 3.0 in my 1992 Camry, same problems here in Pa.

[@baxrok2.]

Good call. Thanks Ivan!

[@davidworsley7969]

Ivan-I have no idea what you are doing-But I love it.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Just keeping old cars on the road as long as possible :)

[@wyllie4961]

Yep bad upstream O2 can flag the p0125, happened on my 1999 4Runner 3.4L, scangauge said my ECU coolant temp was spot on as was the separate temp sensor for the cluster, fuel trims went rich and then zero’d out open loop and then CEL came on, reset and did the same, put in a new upstream Denso O2 and went back to normal.

[@cheapskategarage7945]

It's not your fault the connector's are brittle. It's the customer's car and their problem. Especially considering you didn't disconnect it during the timing belt replacement, that should be on them. Even if it broke because you moved the harness, as long as you didn't move the harness excessively any breakage is on them. However, this was a quick, easy fix. By claiming responsibility for this one to maintain the customer's confidence in their car so they keep it you're garanteeing future business.

[@throttlebottle5906]

that vintage with codes related to temp sensor, 99% chance bad sensor and/or connector broken and unplugged :)) over the years I've fixed/replaced about equal amounts.

[@MrTonmit]

Great diag Ivan!

[@adamtrombino106]

I'm with you on this 1. Eat it. It's a small repair that takes seconds, and happy customer that will likely return with other work. When I run across, or break lol, a connector that is N/A as a replacement part, I generally use a dab of silicone on the outside of the connector housing, to whatever it plugs into. The grey stuff. So it's glued together, but can easily be pulled off if necessary. Vibration and heat cycles won't affect it. Of course, I suppose you have to be careful of where these parts live before you start using silicone..lol

[@VedafoneYT]

Hi Ivan good work but I prefer to replace connector and clean sensor pins either... I have a question... Why the rpm meter not working... I suppose because an old car

[@stephendee7839]

Good call on the "no charge" call after a large bill on the timing belt. I feel like your billing practices are sometimes more oriented toward an individual than to the jobs.

[@kenfromsilverdale5675]

IMO, should've just told the customer about the degraded plastic, 20+ years old, on the CTS connector, told him what you did to fix it for now, and tell them if it's an issue again it will require a pigtail replacement to fix the issue long term. No charge to your client is fine for now but you should've planted a seed about an eventual pigtail replacement at regular prices. Remeber, you can't quote rust or make 20+ year old parts, plastic in this case, perform like new.

[@billziegmond4943]

Love NPR Quick diag loose connector 1 zip tie. No Charge by me either. Goodwill goes a long way.

[@josephneal4858]

Great and fun diag man I really enjoyed it!!!!!

[@TractorWrangler01]

Yeah, No charge. Those connectors get so hard and brittle. I use zip ties on those too. Tape never stays reliably. Those zip ties are a perminate fix.

[@JohnNorris411]

I had a similar code in my 2005 es330 and rough idle after doing a timing belt job, turned out I just forgot to plug the water temp sensor electrical plug back in.

[@hddm3]

Good tip and very fair

[@jimforsyth2.]

It would probably set both codes if there was a rich condition according to the sensor . Its a way to make you look at the ect or 02 because make a rich condition . In old toyotas coolent temp sensor would make the trans have no OD and its was eazy to mis in data . It probably a way toyota programs there ecms to make you look at something overlooked

[@shawnwimberly9294]

I'm generally a fan of your process, but why not source a connector and fix it properly?

[@kinglangren]

I like the zip tie - it works . I usually put some silicone on it but that’s probably better.

[@Bumpy400]

Great Job!! Don't see any rpm movement.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Just bumpy bumpy the dash and it wakes up lol

[@fredflintstone8048]

Given the age of the car however nice it is, the plastics are getting brittle. I also use the zip tie or small piece of bailing wire to lock those broken connectors in place. I'm not a big fan of a lot of the modern made zip ties that you can buy everywhere. I used to buy the tywrap brand of nylon tywraps, they last the longest.. the plastic ones off gas and over time break.

[@mikesvirtualgarage9917]

Agree with not charging the customer on this one. I love older German cars with metal clips :D At least this one was an easy fix. Russian repair?!?! :)

[@rexberttechnica6702]

Something easy and not necessarily related, I wouldn't charge the customer. The older stuff gets you, everything falls apart in your hands. Just the nature of it.

[@shabbirneyazi1151]

Great video! I had a mitsubishi Grandis 2004 and it has only one code P0125 when I checked the ECT didn't find any problems. And the car has 4 oxygen sensors. When I checked the B1S1 oxygen sensor it switched slow and when I replaced it there was no more code and fixed.

[@TheCrazy243]

Go to salvage yard if you have time. Collect a lot of connector if they are good in shape. I do that all the time when i go to salvage yard. They’re usually free. I always have it in stock, depend on make. When i broke it or customer broke it. I change it out lol. No wiring work. Just pull that pin and put in new connector . They’re very brittle and easy to break.

[@reallynotbob6]

Now that's a good pro tip.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

I don't have time to go to junk yards 😅

[@fulgenciomarcos9350]

Well done

[@s980845]

Just noticed when you started it, the tachometer didn't show the rpms 🤔

[@adotintheshark4848]

A '94? Holy Crap. It's as old as You-Know-Who's Celica!

[@chrisgreenwood271]

is that the one thats done 4 million miles, and is still on the same oil 😉

[@adotintheshark4848]

@@chrisgreenwood271 Just like it's owner!

[@hrdworkin7633]

Thanks for the video. Did you happen to notice the tachometer was not functioning at 8:06 even though scan tool registered the engine RPM. Just an observation

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Yeah speedo didn't work either! Just needs a gentle tap on the dash 😂