Clean Armor How To: Wood 750 Tabletop Sealer and Wood 757 Tabletop Finish (Gloss)

[@numbasixx]

Well since nobody else will say it! Here’s some feedback from a grown up who works for a living, we don’t need or really want, high video production documentaries on how to apply a finish, we just want the quick and dirty from someone who knows what the hell they’re doing and then we take what we learned and go straight back to work. All that to say your videos hit the mark in the exact way we need them to so thank you very much for taking the time to film and post these videos. And to anyone watching this, it won’t kill you to like subscribe and comment on these videos. For one thing it’s just polite to show your thanks when someone goes out of their way to help us for free and second if there is no engagement on the videos, KZbin will bury them even if you try and search very specifically for these types of relatively niche/specific types of videos. But really thank you very much, anything Clean Armor specific is like gold to me.

[@MyWoodCutters-ur8vn]

Thank you so much for your nice words. I'm not a professional KZbinr and was quite nervous doing these videos, but as we sell these products, it is important to us, that we can tell and show people how to use it. So your words mean the world to me! Thank you again so much!

[@numbasixx]

@@MyWoodCutters-ur8vn you’re very welcome! Easy to tell the truth. And please don’t kill yourself trying to make the videos too pretty for our sakes. You post em I’ll watch em!

[@HalcyonGuitars]

I’m still eager to see if I can use this for my guitars…

[@JoeWiczko]

Can this be applied over counter tops treated with mineral oil? I like the look of the mineral oil finish, but hate the lack of durability.

[@MyWoodCutters-ur8vn]

Clean Armor adheres well to all kinds of other wood finishes for as long as these are fully cured and dry. Note that the indicated drying time by many manufacturers is more a statement of when the product can be put to use, but full and thorough curing often takes much longer. I personally would not apply Clean Armor over anything that is not at least 1 month old. In any case, the manufacturer is unable to test this on all possible other finishes out there on the market, so always do your own tests before applying this to your projects.

[@suspensefulness]

do u have any good scratch test videos

[@arrow7212]

I've been testing the 700 series for a few weeks. I don't have adequate spray tools so I've been trying all kinds of different application methods. Wipe on (stain pads, cotton, microfiber, anything else I can find), I've tried closed cell rollers, I've tried various paint brushes - too many to explicitly name. In almost every single case, it NEVER self levels (streaks from brushes remain even after 30 minutes) and when trying very thin wipe on coats, it almost always produces tiny bubbles that have to be wet sanded. Out of about two or three dozen attempts on different wood surfaces, I have only one that I'm happy with. When I say "happy" it means, it wasn't terrible. Could it be that I just have a bad batch of product. None of what you've shown in any of the videos that I've watched is a reality in my experience. It's a very frustrating and prohibitively expensive experience so far. Any advise would be very much appreciated.

[@MyWoodCutters-ur8vn]

Since Clean Armor produces all products in very large batches from which individual orders are bottled, it is very unlikely that you have received a “bad production batch” since we do not have any other similar customer complaints from customers that received their product from the same batch. Your experiences are difficult to understand and guide without standing next to you. Clean Armor has good self levelling abilities but often not to the point that it completely self levels because that would require a viscosity level that would make it next to impossible to apply Clean Armor on vertical surfaces without runners. It does require some patience and proper application tools and techniques to level the product perfectly, and everyone has different preferences. My personal preference is a microfiber applicator. Also, remember that Clean Armor is 100% solids where other finishes are at best 30% solids and 70% solvents. Therefore, you need to apply clean Armor with about 1/3 thickness as what you are used with other finishes. You are in full control of Clean Armor as it does not start curing while you are still trying to level it out. Simply do not turn the light on before you like what you see. If the bubbles you mention start appearing while curing, then you are too close with your UV light which will boil the Clean Armor. Clean Armor does heat up while curing and that process can indeed force embedded air to the surface while curing. It often helps to rub the sealer deep into the wood with some force. Most importantly, have you tried working with different wood species or just one? Sometimes, specific wood species (especially oily ones) can be more difficult to finish. Please note this is a comment section on KZbin. For more support, please contact us directly per email with your contact info that enables us to look up your order history.

[@MasonBivens-lo2nt]

I’ve been using it as recommended by wiping, paint pad, and even tried spray finish and having similar results. It’s just meh final results with significant gaps diving into the open grain even if there’s a cured layer underneath. Not sure what to do about it.

[@arrow7212]

@@MyWoodCutters-ur8vn Thank you for the response. I'd like to clear one thing up about the bubbles. They seem to appear prior to curing, even with a very thin wipe on layer. (NOTE: The sealer does not do this) Also, as for the exothermic process, I've experimented with distance of the light source after an initial curiosity test, just it out of the box (so to speak) and hitting it with a UV flashlight. We noted the rapid cure and the destabilized nature of the product (it was gloss btw). So, that's remained top of mind. As for the woods. Started with a box store 'select pine', then a maple project (hard wood, not ply veneer), some red cedar ship lap, and most recently, a very expensive and large slab of rainbow poplar. I promise, I REALLY want to make this work because I like making dust, and I like the final results of a beautiful finish, but, I don't like the time wasted between coats. Thanks again for any insight.

[@christianhull7999]

Can you use this over a polyurethane finish that’s already existing? And in good shape.

[@MyWoodCutters-ur8vn]

Yes, Clean Armor adheres well to all kinds of previous wood finishes (including polyurethane) for as long as these are fully cured and prepared to receive another finish.

[@joshuatate6106]

What is the reason/justification for a separate sealer?

[@jonlassak1141]

It gives the end product a more even coat since raw wood is porous and soaks up the finish differently across the board. I believe the clean armor sealer is a little thinner than the final coats.

[@shaunhindley]

Can I put the 757 on top of tung oil?

[@MyWoodCutters-ur8vn]

In most cases, yes. The problem is that most so called Tung Oils on the market also use other ingredients which makes them different from one another and we cannot possibly test them all. If it is pure tung oil and is fully cured and ready to accept a new finish, the Clean Armor will adhere well to it. If you are not sure about possible other ingredients in your tung oil, you would need to test for yourself on a sample piece...