Odies Oil vs. Rubio Monocoat: Why I Will Never Use Odies Oil Again

[@bgore3457]

Have you never seen anyone apply this finish before you man. This is a great video to show people how not to apply both of these finishes. So I guess good job if that was your goal!

[@TimTimTomTom]

seriously... I bailed out at 6:44, by then it was abundantly clear this guy has no idea wtf he is doing. Hacks.

[@Subliminalowl]

In the first minute I could tell that you didn’t wipe the Odie’s off enough. And NEVER should you need a full jar of it on anything. Well, maybe an entire house exterior lol. Because of this I can’t say this is a good comparison video.

[@markbulle9622]

I did not even watch 2 minutes into it for the same reason. Other thing I notices if you look closely in the video of the his epoxy pour, the black epoxy i humped up in areas so he did not sand it smooth. @ major rookie mistakes in less than 2 minutes. I stopped the video at that point and started looking at comments to see what others have said. Your comment was the fist one I saw and was dead spot on.

[@bhafferman]

Man, i dumped 2 gallons of Rubio on my table and the finish didn’t work right. Guess I should have followed the instructions, ho hums, must be rubies fault :( Maybe next time read the instructions. Odies is fantastic and much better than Rubio. And it’s food safe.

[@CSWells-uq4jx]

Same. If your nail scratches residue off the surface, you didn’t buff it off enough

[@user-mb2vk9lc4f]

I completely agree! You should NEVER use Odie's again if you don't know how to properly apply it.

[@TheLocalWoodworker]

I amde 15 seconds of this nonsense. Hour approach is totally amatuerish. I agree with every reply on this thread, if you don't knnow how do use something, don't use it. I build very high end Walnut live edge Dining Room tables and Maloof style chairs. Odie's is all that I will use. One thing you obviously don't understand is grain delineation. Srpayed or brushed finishes, ones that you will like sit on top and create a smooth layer, thus filling in the grain. Odie's penetrates and enhances the natural grain like nothing else I have ever used. I won't even use the Ceramic finishes because they do the same.

[@cassityart7001]

Super lovely. Thanks for the honest process of your video. I too love the Rubio finish and simplicity. So I spent 6 months looking for a custom size end table. All seemed to be way beyond my budget. So I found a piece of butcher block natural pine that was marked down due to a very noticeable scratch. But I bought it and sanded it out. Then watched hours of “best” finish videos. Rubio was rated overall best. As a Grandma of 8, I didn’t have time to hover over furniture. The table looks lovely, is durable and a perfect fit for a lamp and an army of plastic soldiers. 😊

[@tomstevens8243]

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but your Odies oil problem is that it's a lot more work up front to get great, long lasting results. I use Odies and while it's admittedly not as easy to apply as Rubio, the results are stunning and hold up very well to normal use and proper care. I noticed several mistakes you made but rather than hashing all that, I'll just explain how to use Odies properly and maybe you could try it again. I think it's worth it. First, after sanding your wood to at least 600-800 grit. (The higher you go in grit from there, your finished product will become even shinier.) I've found 1200 grit works great on most hardwoods for an almost mirror like finish. IMHO, there's not much difference any higher than that. After sanding and thoroughly cleaning the surface, you apply the Odies oil SPARINGLY(After thoroughly mixing it in the jar at room temp first) At best, you may have needed a third of that jar for that table. (I made the same mistake my first time but rather than use acitone and sanding, I just buffed by hand for 2 days. Tomato/tomatoe ) Only apply a dime sized dollop at a time and work it in, in sections. To do the BEST job, you should apply the oil in small circular motions with A fine Mirlon pad. I believe they are 2400 grit standard. You need to work it into every inch of the wood by hand. There shouldn't be so much oil left that you can scrape it off with your fingernail. That's way too much. On a table that size, if you haven't worn your arm out several times, you aren't doing it right. Once you have the oil on evenly and there are no dry spots, let it sit for 30 minutes to 1 hr. No more than an hour or it makes it a lot harder to get off but give it time to penetrate the wood. Next, use a clean dry, lint free rag (You'll need several in fact, once they get oiled up) and fold it into a rectangle. Push with both hands, WITH THE GRAIN to wipe off all the oil. Wipe off All of it. When your rag gets oily, get a fresh one. You should be able to wipe your finger across the top without leaving an oily mark when you're done. Then the final and most important step is to take another clean rag and polish (Buff, Buff, Buff). You could use a buffer at this point but you can overheat the oil and make you start over if you're not careful. No need to ask me how I know that. It's just best to do it by hand. I have several pieces of large live edge hardwood furniture I've made with Odies, one of which is my 6x3.5 foot kitchen island. It takes some abuse. Water beads on it for hours and never leaves a ring. I can clean it with just a damp rag. About twice a year, I apply a very light coat of odies with the miroln pad that I just leave in the jar then buff it off. The shine is back to day one. I highly recommend it. On a side note, I will mention that the finish will still continue to darken some for the next 2-3 days. Nothing dramatic but it will be a shade darker than day 1. I hope this helps.

[@hardwoodfabrication]

Thank you so much for your detailed comment! The amount of work you describe is exactly what I was trying to avoid for this particular piece of furniture, but I will reference this comment for my next application of odies. I also wonder if the Indonesian monkey pod behaves differently than domestic hardwoods like oak or walnut. The Janka scale says 900 but Ive noticed, as with most tropical hardwoods, hardness varies throughout the slab. Whereas when working with domestic hardwoods, I find hardness and density to be more consistent throughout the slab. Just some observations Ive had.

[@tomstevens8243]

@@hardwoodfabrication Thank you for your Thank you! It's how we all learn, sharing. Thanks for taking it so well. I have never tried it on Monkey pod but I've found other hard and soft woods turn out just as well as far as finish. I've noticed all woods take the staining part differently though. I made a plant table with some cheap southern pine from a box store I had left over and made the legs out of some spare spalted Maple I had. You'd think it would stain the soft pine more than the hardwood but I had a heck of a time color matching the maple legs to the table top. The pine didn't stain as well. Box Elder doesn't either. As I mentioned, it takes a day or two, maybe even 3 before it finishes darkening on some wood, so that was a bit of a pain. I experiment on a spare piece from the same slab when I can or, try it on the bottom side of the actual piece beforehand so I know how many coats to do and for how long. I finally got it but I'm glad I wasn't doing it for a customer. Rubio is far easier for sure but I think Odies protects the wood deeper for longer. It's probably like the argument of which is better, Chevy of Ford really. Odies hardly lets anything get under that soaked in wax that you can't get out though. (Within reason of course. I don't have toddlers and teenagers any more but I did, and I've lowered my standards of cleaning a bit to save my sanity.)

[@johndavid3114]

This guy’s instructions are correct. I can get great results following these instructions . Odies isn’t as easy as they advertise, and sanding to higher grits is a pain. But if u do it right it looks great. I sand to 800 and it looks awesome

[@MehrabS]

Well said. I always use Odies and I'm happy with it. Recently used it on my 8 foot long live edge black walnut dining table.

[@TheFriskyBoy]

I like detailed comments

[@charlessupplee2655]

Been using odies for a few years. It will take a ton of convincing to make me change.

[@brewtalityk]

I think this guy just doesn't know how to apply Odie's oil correctly. The idea of having to use an entire jar is absolutely absurd. I've done a 7x3' dining table, a 4x3' coffee table and a couple other small projects, and I still have half a jar of Odie's left

[@bryankienow5563]

That sandpaper storage is exquisite. Looking to find something similar.

[@hardwoodfabrication]

Clean, right? Let me see if I can dig up a link for you.

[@DrDenticle]

@@hardwoodfabricationdefinitely want that link was well haha. Great video though! I just got my first can of Rubio and it’s great so far. I haven’t tested Odie’s yet but glad to see your perspective.

[@TravisOG64]

Had the same exact thought after seeing the tub. Would love a link! @hardwoodfabrication

[@hardwoodfabrication]

Check the description for a link to the sandpaper organizer.

[@charlessupplee2655]

Found mind on Amazon

[@HelloAnthony]

02:35 Pedro's Tacos!! I really need to make a road trip down to South County soon for some grub. Also, give Osmo Polyx a shot. "Clear" for walnut/dark woods, "raw" for white oak/light woods. I've been very happy with the results. I feel it's as good as Rubio without the extra step of having to mix up a batch with the hardener. Cheers!

[@nickj1968]

We have been using the rubio product for 10 years and cannot fault it. The only thing I'd do differently is to use the black pigmented version in full, half or quarter strength to mask the yellowness of your timber. Yes the table will be darker but the grain will be further highlighted and the timber not so yellow.

[@miguelsanchez3582]

Cuál es la diferencia entre aceite de teca y rubio monocoat? Saludos.

[@mauriceryton]

I use Odie's all the time. It gives a beautiful finish.

[@scottrobertson9788]

Looks incredible, super helpful information as well! Cheers for posting!

[@EvanarProductions]

Based off my experience, as a profesional woodworker. I would say odies is much more durable. Rubio is no where near as water resistant. Also, it does appear that you applied odies incorrectly

[@phillamoore157]

Wow...beautiful table. One thing seems very clear. A well prepped, very high-end piece of wood, can make any product seem exceptional.

[@tillmansr2002]

Great VIDEO. Rarely are there great 'compare' videos. At 6:37 you mention the final grit at 240. Which seems very fine, then later you mentioned at 8:03 you mentioned it product doesn't absorb as much. Is this likely due to the finer sanding grit (240) mentioned earlier at 6:37?

[@paulbriggs3072]

I learned more about Rubio Monocoat from you than I could figure out from their obscure vague website. It's a catalyzed oil finish. Which ought to be named Duo-coat since its a two part finish.

[@davidqualls7651]

Oldies is really great for Charcuterie boards but you need to work it in and then buff it and get any excess off in about 30 min. I love the Rubio for my tables. I use both on products.

[@chrisweigand1817]

how many coats of odies to you use on your charcuterie boards if you don't mind me asking? I have had nothing but bad luck with odies. and I do exactly what they say and BUFF OFF but still end up with a splotchy finish

[@SamWanamaker1]

Yes, he clearly put too much odies on as you can see from that finger nail mark. With that said though, I can understand why he kept adding it. Odies does dry out very quickly, and will not look great after the first few weeks. It’s not a great product, but having a whole jar of it on one table is not the answer either.

[@petrsidlo7614]

Videos like these give me life, I was always hesitant to spend a lot a expensive finishes. All I use is linseed oil and very badly advertised swedish wax. Some less stressed pieces I have built years ago do not require re-applying, they still look good and with nice sheen, soft to the touch. One table to that get a lot of plates and coffee cups on it gets mostly away with cleaning, and maybe once a year re-applying wax only and only on problem spots. To see Odies fail so hard while costing triple of my wax (in a much smaller container) is kind of funny. Sometimes keeping it simple and oldschool pays of I guess.

[@missylellek9760]

Looks absolutely beautiful!

[@BryanDunlap]

Just came across this video. I've used both Odie's and Rubio. I'm going to go the other direction than most the of comments I'm reading below. I've had far better results from Rubio than Odie's. While it is very true, a little bit goes a long way - for both finishes. I have found a far more durable, even finish with Rubio. I've also used Rubio tinted 5% white - which is GREAT for light colored wood like maple. It doesn't give the yellow tint like Pure does. So - for me personally - I will stick with Rubio for larger projects and table tops. But I'd still use Odie's for smaller projects. Honestly - to each his own. I think it goes down to personal taste. You did a fine job on the table - and you learned from your mistake (Rubio's documentation even tells you - you can never take too much off!) Nice job!

[@ckkelby]

Awesome explanation on how to use. Thanks!

[@patrickobrien9982]

Rubio says never sand over 180. It wont hold onto enough oil to last very long

[@W.A.J.J.]

I use oldies on my counters and floor. I did them myself. Milled the flooring And everything. The maintenance is a lot and it’s not as easy as they pretend it is when they sell it to you. But it is great.

[@cynthiahaynes4762]

OMG!!!! I AM STUDYING FOR MY FIRST PROJECT AND AFTER TWO DAYS OF SEARCHING, YOU ANSWERED ALL THE FRUSTRATIONS/FEAR I WAS HAVING INCLUDING THE EXOPY RIVER WHICH IS SOMETHING I WANT I WANT TO DO ALSO. DO YOU HAVE A VIDEO ON HOW TO DO THE RIVER? TOOOOOO PRETTY!!! LADY HAYNES. OH BY THE WAY, THIS IS ALSO MY FIRST KZbin COMMENT🤣

[@Rickydragon1979]

I did a 7'x2'x2" black walnut live edge mantle using odies oil. Two coats took at most 3 table spoons of Odies at most. I'll probably use this jar for years. Applied a glob to a scrub pad, then scraped it back into the jar. Used whatever remained on the pad to apply to almost a 1/4 of the top side before repeating. If you used a jar, you either are trying to make odies look bad, or you don't know how to use it.

[@LuisAMRU]

Hi. Great looking table. What do you think of using rubio on a raised panel finished room? Not sure if it is red or white oak. Has a stain. Several coats of possibly shellac. Thank you.

[@kieranfinnerty631]

Rubio Monocoat, it’s in the name just one coat apparently a second coat will not penetrate. I’ve used Rubio for a few years now and found it to be a superb easy to apply product. I apply it with the pads that they recommended and just wipe off the access, it’s simple and durable. Not cheap but goes a long way and is durable 😀

[@JohnAlanDay]

I like Odies for small projects but have switched to tried and true

[@5zwoodworks]

I have to question your methods with the Odie's and why it failed. Why? Because you didn't sand to Rubio's instructions when you were applying it. That's a concern. I would've called Odies and spoken with someone to find out what the problem could've been.

[@PhillTheGreat]

True

[@WatchTashi]

Omg. Y’all really need to relax with the “questions.” It didn’t work for him. He found a product that did. Your favorite KZbinrs will still be using Odie’s. Calm yourself. And tbh, I don’t care for Odie’s. Way better products available in 2023.

[@boulderguywhy]

He didn't wipe any of it off. It's caked on. This is an obvious fake video.

[@travisedwards9983]

He.. applied it and removed it totally wrong, anything would fail doing that. For oil wax finish its one of the best on market and beats rubio in most tests, osimo is actually worse than rubio. Are things that do better, but are in a different catigory of finishes. In short, he is getting bashed because of wrecking a product because of his errors.@@WatchTashi

[@RobertL39]

Please tell us what the second coat of Rubio did. Yes, looks great in the video. But do you think the second coat gave you more sheen? Filled the wood pores better (my main complaint with Rubio)? I'm using it on cherry and it's given me a very uneven, open-pore finish which is OK but not really what I wanted. I was expecting the "wax" nature of it to fill the pores a bit more and leave the surface sheen more uniform. Oh well. Thanks!

[@rogerkant3696]

In my woodworking journey I have learnt many things but finishing is the black magic of furniture as represents the challenges of different wood types and use cases. I started out with stains and standard polyurethane clear coats, played with some tinted poly’s and finally settled on a modified wax product that is German but sold under an Australian brand by WhittlesWaxes under the Evolution brand. The product is one pot for indoor use but comes with a hardener for floors and outdoor uses, coverage was excellent and wetted out to a smooth warm finish. They have some color tinted versions but clearly state the colors are color in the finish so you can dilute into the finish if you want. Coverage was 30m2/liter which is about 1200 sq.ft/gal. Comes in 4 sheens from gloss to satin. About USD60/liter or quart. Takes 12-15 hours to fully dry but is touch dry in 30 mins.

[@nancyanneberg403]

Was just thinking about Odie's . Thank you. Wonderful table. Especially after redone finish

[@rdot980]

He used the Odie's all wrong.

[@oneacrehomestead]

The color and grain of that wood is amazing

[@forbiddenengravings7306]

I want to try Rubios. I use Odie's a lot but on small guitar parts I make which works really well. I do a lot of color treating to woods prior so likely another reason it takes the oil well. One difference I do that you didn't is add their Odie's Super Duper Everlasting Oil after the first coat of the regular stuff. It's a real thin version of their oil. Just something else to consider. I'll pick up some Rubio's though and give it a shot!

[@Markoteoriko]

Hello there! Have you tried the stains offered by the Same Odie's company? Do you put a finish coat over the oil?

[@coppulor6500]

What kind of stain did you use on your fence?

[@TheMinor7th]

Also the mic sounds amazing. Is it an xlr?

[@hardwoodfabrication]

Yes. Its a podcaster ;-)

[@bmccarty2012]

Nice San Clemente footage :)

[@jeffreybomes6816]

What color Rubio coat if any did u use?? Great vid! thanks for it!

[@csranch2000]

Question, did you not finish the bottom of the table? I might be concerned that there would be some moisture problem and possible cupping of the wood with only one side finished. I have not done a project this size but am wanting to. Trying to look out for problems. Thanks. Beautiful table.

[@PhillTheGreat]

That's also correct and a good observation, brother!

[@RustyHolcomb]

A full jar of odies covers like 400 square ft.

[@jeremyelliott4652]

What color of the rubio monocoat is this?

[@garyingersoll2460]

looks beautiful...

[@sicklefinger]

after the first coat of Rubio, you have to wipe off all the excess using any cloth. then if you want to buff it, go for it. It won't be as sticky. or you don't have to buff it at all.

[@hardwoodfabrication]

This makes sense. Thanks for the tip!

[@MrAtfenn]

the fact that you can scratch the finish (not the wood) of the table so easily with your fingernail means that you failed to wipe off all of the excess odies oil off between applications. this is not a film finish, meaning that you dont want any of it to cure or polimerize on top, so no oil should remain above the surface of the wood. this is an application problem not a problem with the product. with that said. by all means use rubio instead if you like it. its a wonderful finish and easy to use

[@hardwoodfabrication]

I know its not officially documented, but you'll have to trust me that when I rubbed off ALL the Odies, I rubbed off ALL of it. We eat on this table almost every night. No way I could have gotten away with leaving even a little behind. The surface protection issue was a slow, degradation process.

[@KarlBunker]

@@hardwoodfabrication You may have rubbed off all the _excess_ (i.e. still liquid) Odies, but obviously from the huge build-up you weren't rubbing it all off. And also obviously, Odies doesn't work once you start building it up into a thick layer. I'm curious what lead you to put on the first re-application of Odies, because once you did that you were stuck in a downward spiral: The thick layer of Odies gets cloudy and marked up easily, so you apply another coat which gets more cloudy and marked up more easily, and so on. That said, I expect you're right that Rubio is better for a hard-used tabletop than Odies. Just don't start adding more and more coats of Rubio without removing what's already on there.

[@kellyskinkis8909]

I like the table but you are woefully uninformed on the proper method of applying Odie's oil.

[@liamcallahan6652]

I absolutely love Rubio and as you dislike Odie's. Have had great long term results and will continue to use the Rubio as my go to finish. Great work

[@albanleroux]

if you have applies Odies just like you apply Rubio, your Odies finish was too thick. You say you apply and apply it again making it more thicker. It will nerver cure at all. You may remove any excess by wiping it off. Using a buffer do not wipe off, it just spreading the finish. I'm thinking this is certainly why Odies not work on your table.

[@hardwoodfabrication]

I only applied a small amount of Odies and thoroughly rubbed it off each time.

[@TimTimTomTom]

@@hardwoodfabrication that's why you can leave fingernail scratches in it... because you wiped it all off? No man

[@fhannaf]

You need to read the bodies oil application instruction and follow to the letter. It will out perform Rubio

[@aprilgarcia6954]

Just wondering why you did a 4 to 1 ratio on the Rubio and not a 3 to 1?

[@joschmoyo4532]

I am speaking from fourty years in the trade FYI. When I made my wife's dining table in European Cherry I used a traditional linseed oil based product called Volvox. It is not dissimilar to what Stradivarius would have varnished his violins with. It takes time to cure but gives amazing clarity and depth to the grain of the timber. It just gets better and better with age. It's expensive but goes a long way. That being said no finish is bullet proof and our family table long since lost that glow from hard use. But it doesn't bother us in the slightest. Every stain and dent is a story. Live with it. Showroom shine is fine for some things but Table's like bench tops are a working surface. The more perfect the finish, the more imperfections stand out. If I need to refresh and water proof the surface, PURE beeswax works best. This modern obsession with perfectly flat shiny showroom surfaces is un natural and unrealistic. Life is not about perfection and in any event that epoxy will start to break up in the UV. I don't bother to fill knots. I leave them. I hate fillers and epoxy. Sorry, but in Europe we don't have this same clinical obsession towards natural materials.

[@TheMinor7th]

You mentioned the wood was from an order. Do you have more? It’s super nice and I was thinking it would make a killer desktop.

[@hardwoodfabrication]

Yes. We have some nice monkeypod slabs in stock. Shoot me an email HardwoodFabrication at gmail.com

[@TheMinor7th]

@@hardwoodfabrication excellent! Will do

[@mlee9049]

​@hardwoodfabrication Hi, do you still have slabs available? I just shot you an email.

[@Lolo7674]

Acetone on epoxy ? My acetone eats epoxy like the sun melts Groenland. In seconds, the epoxy is kaput. How did you manage to save the epoxy ?

[@ansunromanowski3381]

Have you ever used syringes to measure out the Rubio?

[@hardwoodfabrication]

Yes. Used syringes on the second coat and barely wasted any on that run.

[@JamesWelbes]

Anybody else notice he said "now it's time for that second coat of Odie's"?

[@gipsasl]

What you are wiping off is the dust that's left after sanding not the oil finish....As for Rubio,we are using it in the workshop as our go to finish as it's very economical, only one coat required and they have a lot of different colors and durable, smells decent also. Also you are supposed to apply it with a scotch pad so it pushes in the grain. Good to see that you are not afraid of posting video where you make mistakes though ,after all that's the best way to learn.

[@thenext9537]

Rubios is nuts because not a lot is needed. Also the accelerator isn't needed, just brings down cure time to 7 days vs ~ 30.

[@steven_vogt]

lovely table 👍

[@zephyr1408]

Blacktail woodworks buy the ceramic coating? I think it’s om8 are some name like that! Goes right over that finish and wow ! Then you leave it and drive a truck over it! He makes and sells tables all around the world! You can see him use that same finish!

[@TheEchelon]

It’s not an activator but an accelerator. You can use it without it, but it takes more time to cure.

[@boulderguywhy]

It's actually a chemical modifier. Rubio calls it's part two a catalyst when it's actually a reactant. It doesn't just speed up the drying process, it modifies the linseed oil so that the finish becomes a polyurethane. Rubio's part two is mostly isocyanate. They say their finish is food safe because it isn't "free isocyanate", but really what they mean is that once the oil dries all the isocyanate and linseed oil has reacted together to make polyurethane. Rubio's verbiage is pretty sneaky.

[@TWC6724]

So how durable or how hard is Rubio actually? I know practically ever woodworker is using it but it’s just wax correct? I’m still baffled at this concept.

[@ucuniversity2869]

It's not durable and it penetrates very little from my own testing. It is the best looking finish in my opinion. For durability you'll want something else

[@hardwoodfabrication]

So far, in a well used environment, it has been much more durable than Odies. Not a single scratch on it yet and Im telling you, my wife and kids do not go easy on this poor table. Its really a hard wax that cures. Remember this stuff is used on high end custom hardwood floors, it absolutely has to offer a level of protection higher than the average wax or oil.

[@brewtalityk]

use Carbon Method top coat if you want a really durable top coat that you can put on any finished surface

[@michaelfederoff261]

To start with, there is no comparison with the Rubio monocoat oil plus 2C comp. A and comp. B. and Odie's wax. The former is a 2 component and the latter a 1 component. That said the 2 comp. will always beat the 1 comp. plain and simple. If the 2 comp. is somehow not as good as the 1 comp. you can rest assured that the 2 comp/ is an inferior material. Sooo, yes using too much material with not enough cure time between coats is an issue by the person putting it on and not the material but there is more to this product than just any other material. Just because it’s dry to the touch doesn't mean it’s ready for the next coat. Being a master journeyman in CRII painting, I have an extensive background in (re)finishing and homeowners almost always(no offense) get it wrong because they get the marketing confused with the directions given for application and that’s just what the marketing team would like, because you WILL end up buying more for whatever reason.. lol. The Odie’s directions for coating by the guy, James that created it, believe it or not, could be improved on! Lol. This material is unique in that it uses the heat by friction from the application to draw the materials down into the wood fibers initially. It’s important to know that this was a wood flooring product initially and that is how it is applied on floors with a buffer. That is what it was originally designed for. It’s all on their video’s with no fault by James it just fails to be considered/offered for other surfaces… lol. That said, it's easy to see the folly. 😀

[@kirkjordan2625]

120 is as high as you go with Rubio. You need the pores open. If you go with high grain paper you need to water pop it and don’t sand anymore

[@VinniesOilEurope]

If you want to Use acetone, polyurethane or any form of highly dangerous and cancergeous chemicals. Make sure you wear a mask with A1 filter, gloves, and long sleves. If you happen to have sawdust in the room. You need to use mask at all times in your workshop! not only when you apply. You dont see a lot of old woodworkers able to run a marathon these days. Thats what we want to change. Health is a lot more importaint than your piece of wood, but you actually dont have to compromise. Theres way better options than Odie's in the toxic free segment that actually penetrates and hardens the wood properly ;) Cheaper too.

[@RestorationsFOD]

I’m pretty sure the application is achieved with a white pad not a soft buffer

[@ofearthfurniture]

You over applied the Odie’s Oil and never properly removed all the excess/residual oil. This is very apparent by being able to leave a mark with your fingernail. Odie’s works by residing IN the wood not on the wood. When properly applied it performs as advertised and definitely outperforms Rubio which is essentially a weak wipe on polyurethane.

[@hardwoodfabrication]

Thats interesting because I did thoroughly wipe off every bit of Odies after every application. The scratch test in the vid was over 6 weeks after the last Odies application. BTW, Rubios is not polyurethane and so far it has held up much better than Odies (at least on this table).

[@ofearthfurniture]

@@hardwoodfabrication if you successfully buffed it all off there would be nothing to scratch or leave that unsightly white scratch mark. I have been using Odie’s for many years and have finished many tables, bar tops, kitchen countertops etc with never having any issues. You could have even easily fixed that table with Odie’s by doing a proper fix coat. Do you know what a polyurethane is? Rubio is a linseed oil based finish with petroleum solvents and an isocyanate hardener! Put all those together and you have a polyurethane.

[@MajorCordite]

Incorrect. Rubio is a two part product with a catalyst, not a polyurethane product. Odie’s oil is an organic product with a lot of snake oil advertising. Save yourself 80% $$ and buy Howard’s Orange oil beeswax instead of Odies. Same gummy buffy product.

[@ofearthfurniture]

Exactly! @@hughchewb2529 thank you

[@simonexner7547]

@Hugh Chewb oh, so there’s a polyol in linseed oil? Of course not . Do your research! 😅

[@SPQR-Z]

I was wondering about this comparison. Both of these finishes have their fans and both are bias. I went ahead and ordered the Rubio mono coat pure. It does seem the more durable of the two. Thanks for doing this comparison

[@PDXMILO]

Wait, you used pretty much a whole jar of Odie's on just that table? I'm pretty sure you can't blame Odie's when you disregard their specific instructions.

[@rdot980]

Right.

[@travelwell8098]

He said that he used the jar in 13 applications over the course of a year... not in one application.

[@PDXMILO]

@@travelwell8098 Even if that's the case, it's still not how you use it.

[@ResilientCraftsman]

He used more coats b/c the original application wasn’t satisfactory. On the other hand, Rubio recommends 120 grain sanding, 180 with water pop. He want to 260 I think? Outside of instructions.

[@WatchTashi]

He didn’t use it all at once. Tbh Odie’s is overrated. There’s so many finishes available, but they’re prob not being pushed by a lot of furniture flipping or woodworking KZbinrs.

[@rdot980]

I've heard the wood cleaner is just mineral spirits.

[@ashadowawhisper]

The Odie’s jar is supposed to cover 400 sq. ft.

[@christopheseyler3512]

Rubio MONOCOAT .... a second coat is just waste of product. Rubio states the product does not bond to a previous coat. If you want an additional protection, use their metalizer on top of the first coat.

[@PeoplesCarpenter]

Countless layers of Odie's Oil? I have never applied more than two coats. Something isn't computing here. There's definitely a user error going on. Do some browsing of how others apply it, and how the manufacturer explains the process. I'm sure you'll change your mind.

[@Borescoped]

Yeah… lost me in the first 15 seconds with “countless layers”. Used way too much Odie’s Oil. And the part where you run your nail across the wood shows product not properly buffed off. Also, you can tell it wasn’t properly buffed off at the same point in the video when I could see oil on the epoxy portion just sitting there. Using Odie’s Oil, from my experience takes some practice. Good to learn on small items to get used to it before tackling a large project like a table.

[@justinkayce9811]

A whole jar??!! 😳 Bruh, I usually shake the jar and literally only use what's in the cap for almost 4 square ft. Its all about the elbow grease in rubbing it in and buffing it off. Too much Odies, leaves it tacky and dry spots. It's all about the application. Just my experiences tho. I would tend to agree that Rubio would be easier for larger applications tho. Odies for my smaller applications.

[@DevinLumpuy]

Good lord get to the content. Moving on.

[@schpeidermann]

13:02 you mean Rubio ;)

[@marksatterfield3100]

Why not wet sand it? ZERO dust.

[@RonKillian]

thought this was going to be a good comparison, sadly not I was hoping for. Not really a fair side by side.

[@WatchTashi]

Nice job. Beautiful table. I’m all about trying different finishes abs products than the stuff that’s constantly being pushed by KZbinrs. I’m looking at Rubio’s black stain. Because it’s actually black and I’d prefer to use it rather than black paint for my project.

[@kevinfox7825]

One needs to educate themselves on how to use each individual product. You clearly did not do your due diligence on how to apply Odies oil. It is a wonderful product if the application is done correctly, do your research and refrain from educational videos when you are clearly not a professional, and have no business trying to teach others when you do not know yourself.

[@vincenthandcraft4395]

I highly recommend trying Vinnie's Oil. its cheaper, but better than odies oil in my opinion.

[@blandmccartha]

Next time tead the instructions or watch some professionals apply Rubio. You did just about everything wrong. Improper cleaning, improper sanding, mixing too mich, not wiping off before buffing, applying a second coat. There's a reason they call it MONOcoat. Great product, poor technique. Rubio has some great videos, by the way.

[@Mr_Chuckles]

Yep, you can see he applied Odie's incorrectly too - there was loads sitting on the surface that he could scratch with his fingernail. Yet another "KZbin Expert" who couldn't be bothered reading the manual or who came up with their own "superior method"

[@blandmccartha]

@@Mr_Chuckles Both Odies and Rubio have excellent videos on how to apply their products. There's no excuse for making those kinds of mistakes.

[@rdot980]

I've seen a couple very good woodworkers on youtube say they would recommend a 2nd coat of Rubio. It's not necessary, but gave them the finish they wanted.

[@sabersaw5611]

@odies has a whole tutorial for each finish style. I have an easier time applying odies than rubio. It's less delicate. Your prep work may not have been good enough to receive it and maybe you didn't buff off the excess in time. I would rather sand off odies than a poly finish.

[@AA-zq1sx]

Scratching my head why you don't just stain and poly it for durability?

[@seanjohnston8268]

acetone in the house over an unprotected wood floor ........DAMN cowboy !

[@gftx2971]

I just spent $50 on my first jar of Odies just to see what the rage is about after using Rubio historically and I feel the same as you. I followed the application tutorial from the owner and its pretty meh. Odies is pretty good compared to a lot of finishes you may find at Home Depot or something but Rubio is smoother, looks better, dries harder, fills pores better, feels better and as you said will likely last longer. Odies is not even in the same league as Rubio in my opinion.

[@hardwoodfabrication]

My sentiments exactly. Thank you for sharing!

[@tomstevens8243]

Ya, in the grand scheme of things, i would also have to give the nod to Rubio. My comment wasnt really about which is better but more, you have to use a product properly before offering opinions on someones product they developed that helps pay the bills. If the product truly sucks, they should fail but not because it wasnt used properly.

[@steelsunpi]

Another reason not to use Odie's: the owner went on a rampage and basically called small garage based woodworkers losers and unworthy of his product.

[@brucebuckley1413]

Absolutely not true. He did put someone in their place. However just like middle school the guy spun it as an insult to his club as a whole.

[@steelsunpi]

@@brucebuckley1413 I disagree. I read the whole post series when it happened. Odie's owner was definitely an ass and on the offensive.

[@ofearthfurniture]

He absolutely did not, the owner of Odie’s Oil strongly supports his customers of any walk of life. Stop spreading misinformation and lies. James (owner of Odie’s) has done so much for the woodworking community and has positively changed the lives of countless people.

[@ofearthfurniture]

@@steelsunpi if you read the comments you would easily determine that he was speaking to one individual who’s post had some negative comments towards Odie’s. How a whole community of “makers” got offended is beyond comprehension!

[@Cat_R_Waul]

@@ofearthfurniture That guy wasn't even talking negative about Odie's lol. But anything short of "Odie's is the greatest finish ever" is enough to trigger the owner into hurling insults. Not a good look.

[@tvinci1983]

You only need one ounce for 25sqft with odies . A full jar on one table is insane should be like 10 tables. And scratching the table with your finger and it marking means you never removed all the oil. So clearly some mistakes were made during the application process . I feel odies is much better than Rubio and use it most of my projects. But all and all this isn’t a fair comparison video. And hope you give odies another chance and if you follow the directions to the letter I think you will be shocked with the results.

[@CunninghamFurniture]

Odies oil smells good... that's about all its good for.

[@rdot980]

Had to double back to this video to say you actually misused both products. The Odies would have been just fine if you used it correctly. It's durable enough for wood floors.

[@TimTimTomTom]

Dude. So many things here. Agree with others that you didn't apply the Odies correctly. You didn't apply the Rubio correctly either. You aren't supposed to go above 150 grit at the very highest, for Rubio. 120 is what they recommend. You aren't supposed to sand the wood itself that smooth, you're closing off all of the pores. Your finish can't get into the wood. Nobody should follow any of the things this guy did. So many hacks passing themselves off as pro's these days, and youtube is making it worse.

[@patriciamay638]

People who have trouble with odies haven't applied it properly

[@LegendaryGoetz]

Man you applied way too much odies… an 1/8th of that jar would have done that table.

[@marblesrichard]

Looks great but the process was more than a lot

[@Palo_Duro]

Entire jar? WTF?

[@bigeasy_f150]

jesus you used enough for 20 tables

[@billstempek4364]

DUH

[@ronaldtreitner1460]

Meanwhile if you have captions on........ "now I'm ready for that second coat of booties," could we have people doing the captions that understand or passed English in school. However, captions online are still nowhere as bad as the garbage i get watching T.V.

[@conorcurran971]

You massively messed up applying the Odies

[@KVdV-ne5pl]

dude a hole jar 😂 I can do my hole house whit one jar you did your project wrong 😂 Odie’s is a natural product and Rubio is poison! Please dude don’t blame a beautiful product on your own fails, Odie’s is a amazing product ❤

[@leegmoore111]

Odies Oil applied wrong vs. Rubio Monocoat: Why I apply a product incorrectly then blame the product

[@SP0TJ]

massive user error here. jesus haha. an entire jar?? good lord man. what.

[@512bb]

Oh no, monkeypox wood, hopefully the woke police aren't into woodworking my friend.