Climb Safe: How to belay with the Grigri

[@h4ckrun246]

Love these vids, they're concise yet detailed in a beneficial manner.

[@SteveLong-Mountaineering]

All these comments posted to date are advocating out-dated use of the Gri Gri, particularly the video recommended by Manu Schijf, which shows a method of taking in slack rope for top roping that treats the Gri Gri as if it were a tube device rather than a mechanically assisted braking unit. I don't think these commentators are aware that this video was produced by the DAV Safety Research Group, and then approved by the UIAA Safety Commission before publishing in this English language version. The UIAA Safety Commission manages the Equipment Label that the Gri Gri holds. It includes representation by Petzl. The method shown in the video is not the only way to use a Gri Gri but contrary to its detractor's' comments it has been tried and tested very thoroughly.

[@somecsguy9824]

When detracting from well established methods you'd think the creator of this video would mention it and, more importantly, provide source(s) for what you're describing. You could do the same.

[@SteveLong-Mountaineering]

@@somecsguy9824 indeed, which is why I did.

[@bcrowell3]

Treating the grigri as if it were a tube device is exactly what people should be doing. They should have the PBUS method in their muscle memory, so that when they use a tube device, they're belaying safely. Tube devices aren't obsolete. People still use them.

[@raneksi]

As an indoor climber, I have never used a tube device, and never will. Why would I use an unsafe belay device?

[@SteveLong-Mountaineering]

@@raneksi Tube devices are not unsafe. Like any device they need to be used properly. The difference is that the device does not provide braking assistance if the belayer is inattentive. However, the problem with assisted devices is that if used badly, they can deliver the illusion of a degree of assistance/backup but fail to deliver it - a very important example of this is the Gri Gri, which does not lock if the belayer squeezes the device with one hand and yards out the rope with the other, as shown at 4.50 in the video. There have been a number of serious accidents caused by this misuse. At least with a tube device its pretty obvious that the tube won't hold a fall if you let go of the tail end of the rope.

[@Eating72]

This top rope belay technique would get you kicked out of any gym where I'm from. Please demonstrate a safer method.

[@1stNightingale]

It's a contentious point but many consider it safe, but you are right many insurance companies don't and you will not be approved to lead belay in most gyms.

[@thefourthbrotherkaramazov245]

@@1stNightingale Not true. It is allowed at plenty of gyms, so long as they are up to date with current guidelines and techniques. It is not only considered safe but also the technique that PETZL recommends.

[@ImperiumLibertas]

It is considered a more advanced technique because it is not redundant when taking slack. It is safe if done correctly. But that's the trick, it must be done correctly.

[@GrecianGoat]

This technique is widely accepted in most places, I think the US is one of the few places you _have_ to PBUS

[@reformed_attempt_1]

sounds like it's your issue. More specifically, with the laws in your country.

[@cioli23]

Excellent instruction and information thank you.

[@EdgarJackson-sr4sv]

The ropes are durable and just like the ones at the gym. kzbin.infoUgkxTFxba6lNeHrZaHoY_LXe6ZzmMfaipnwu Caution: I bought the 50 feet ropes and they are long and heavy so make sure you have the space (I do have the space). If I was to do it again I would probably get a shorter version as 50 feet (25 feet each side) is a little long.

[@civedm]

Wow. Is that how you work your brake hand?

[@manuschijf484]

nope!

[@control1922]

That's even how Petzl's own video on the Grigri shows how to use it.

[@manuschijf484]

@@control1922 link?

[@control1922]

@@manuschijf484 www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Video--Belaying-with-a-GRIGRI However just to add I don't think it's good practice for belaying.

[@PhweeRage]

Yea it looks unsafe! V, Knee, 1,2,3. if someone falls when you are sliding your hand up the brake rope, you could allow them to fall way too far. maybe dangerously so.

[@timreyes2179]

Why, when catching a lead fall, do you demonstrate your brake hand in a position that is not the same as when you're feeding slack? Almost like you know should just feed slack how petzl says to or use a different device.

[@romedcuevas0828]

We have failed lots of climbers who’s doing tope rope assessment in our gym,with this kind of technique of holding the dead rope.

[@XibaXela]

Not really holding the dead rope at all when he slides a single hand up it

[@brevinjohnson2016]

this technique is very safe I can't see how the rope can possibly slip through at any point

[@brevinjohnson2016]

A grigri is very safe it locks very easily

[@thefourthbrotherkaramazov245]

@@brevinjohnson2016 Yeah they are clearly not up to date with actual belaying techniques with an assisted braking device. I understand the concern when testing people out on toprope, since you want them to make good habits to never let go of that side of the rope, but not only is it not practical for assisted belaying devices, but this technique of sliding over the brake hand side of the rope is literally the recommended technique (source: PETZL's website).

[@Kuisis]

@@brevinjohnson2016 in real world safety is based around multiple steps of security. Just relying on the grigri’s function to stop alone is not the safest, you should still always have a hand on break side

[@boerenkoolmetworst]

If you want to know more about belaying (thanks to the hard work of Hard is Easy): Different belay methods used in the world: kzbin.info/www/bejne/p6mWqWiDgtZ6i8k Testing the tunnel-method: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZmTIqadtecabrtE Example of wrong use of the Gaswork method: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rauUgYeYn7ZmpsU And last but not least: a how-to video from Petzl showing the tunnel-method: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mqLVpJ6ggNyHnKc

[@thefourthbrotherkaramazov245]

Great sources. As a note: For anyone looking at this, the tunnel-method is a comprehensive look at the tunnel-up method on tube devices. He doesn't discuss much until the end about assisted braking belay devices. (12:48) When he does mention them though, he says the tunnel-up method is what is used and recommended by most (including PETZL). It is not great for tubes though!

[@iamthekwan]

Thanks mate, esp for the second link. My friend asked this exact question and your link answered it perfectly. This should be mandated viewing for all belayers.

[@m0rjc]

What if you use the same belay technique you've learned with a bug, with hand swapping?

[@m0rjc]

I wonder if it's worth my son continuing to lean on the DMM Mantis that I use. That reinforces brake hand usage and, at the moment, we have a second adult acting as an assisted braking device (holding on to the brake rope) in case he makes a mistake. So far this has not been needed.

[@chrispolii5026]

Do you get rope burn from doing the gaswerk method? Not sure if I’m doing it wrong or is it because i was practising on the gym’s top rope section with their in house ropes already hanging there. When i pay out slack the rope burns as it runs through the remaining fingers of the brake hand, no matter how lightly I’m gripping. Even barely gripping and just letting the rope slide but still resting lightly on the fingers causes painful burns.

[@Guerilla_G]

Avoid the techniques shown in this shitty and dangerous video

[@zoldrin]

Nice package

[@therealm00theoriginal27]

cringe

[@madln6023]

Can you belay someone that is also using an auto belay to practice?

[@1stNightingale]

That's a question for your gym.

[@kr8Rocks]

alguien que tenga una crónica de escalada en potrero chico?

[@x3i4n]

Seems like has his hand on the unlock mechanism too often.

[@PackaSmash]

"All I see are pork swords" - Juno

[@SHIFTKICK]

that's a pork warhammer lmaooo

[@therealm00theoriginal27]

weirdos

[@majestic2814]

Funny that everyone in the comments thinks they are more knowledgeable than petzl, the DAV and UIAA...

[@NickFoxQuixand]

The worst part is that my local gym in the UK also think they know better than DAV and UIAA. If only there were some universal safety procedures everyone could agree on, things would be much simpler. It goes to show how much hubris there is in climbing. And if safety procedures are being dictated by insurance companies rather than governing bodies, we're doomed.

[@bhumikagupta4432]

I failed the test. Please follow a different video

[@juansom41]

Alguien que tenga artículos interesantes sobre derechos humanos ?

[@kr8Rocks]

ahora que veo este video pienso que sí pudo haber sido útil, pero ojo minuto 5:20

[@juansom41]

@@kr8Rocks gran respuesta! ningún video sustituye la instrucción y supervisión por un instructor calificado.

[@kr8Rocks]

⁠​⁠@@juansom41muchas gracias!!1 Si tan solo pudiera codearme con alguien calificado!

[@Logan-xf4je]

For anyone seeing these negative comments, dont listen to them. The Grigri is a foolproof device and if you follow the instructions in this video you will be safe.

[@smasheduptoaster9186]

i hope this is a joke

[@jacklyncheung4993]

Gyms don't even allow you to belay like this. Please PBUS if you are toproping.

[@brevinjohnson2016]

finally someone with some common sense. The grigri is very safe, I use both of these top rope and lead belay methods and it makes belaying so easy while still being very safe

[@1stNightingale]

Grigri is not fool proof, it is an assisted braking device, if you are a fool it will still fail, just like many others.

[@reformed_attempt_1]

I wouldn't call it "foolproof" but using this technique shown in the video is definitely safe

[@sharpparadox9563]

Man this is wack why do you keep the video up when you literally pinned a comment saying "DO NOT DO THIS" Come on! Haha

[@CookieMonstaJared]

Delete this video this is wrong. The most important part is completely incorrect. You can never take a hand off the dead rope

[@raphbax2073]

A less sad voice?

[@taylorlowinger1206]

Ahhhh bad technique!!!

[@annapurna9893]

The brake hand technique is wack - would not be comfortable with someone belaying me like that

[@gregorylu]

Im a new climber and even I know you should always have one hand on the brake side secured to the rope at all times. What if your top rope falls right as you're sliding your hand up? You could panic and lose the brake side of the rope.