Climber Reacts To Sandbagged Route 🤔

[@773-csb]

Fantastic vid....great job.

[@ChrisHaileyTrainHardDiveEasy]

🙏 Thanks so much, a crazy line!!! grade aside, an absolute banger!!! moves for days, ill be talking about this one for some time ;-)

[@anticoxchange7698]

Amazing line. Would love to try it

[@ChrisHaileyTrainHardDiveEasy]

When are you next in town, lets jump on it 🤙

[@anticoxchange7698]

@@ChrisHaileyTrainHardDiveEasy I’m living on the other side of the world 😭

[@kevedwards]

There’s a guy in the U.K. who was known for crying about ethics I am sure he criticised people for pre clipping first and second draws, he’s paralysed now from a fall, I heard of another guy who used to warm up on the same route in Malham Cove (UK) had probably done the route over a hundred times and never pre clipped the first bolt and one day he randomly slipped, cracked his head and is no brain damaged. It’s just not worth it, I am totally fine clipping the first 2 bolts if it protects a ground fall, I’ll only not do it if I won’t deck and it’s part of a crux. If I wanted more risk I would trad climb. I know people who will clip up to 3 to make the climb easier for me that’s when you’re starting to get a bit cheeky but each their own, we’re only competing against ourselves at the end of the day. The climb looks awesome by the way, the rock looks so clean.

[@molomono9481]

Yeah man, 100% agree, the ego is a strong drug, but it gets in the way of celebrating, preserving and sharing life. Clipping the first bolts to avoid a ground fall, means lower risks and injuries, and since a major component of climbing and alpinism is looking for challenges and reducing risks when possible. It baffles me that there is a tradition to tell people to not reduce unnecessary risks. And i've free solo'd short sport routes, and topped out career ending highballs without mats so the "no-fall" mindset is not lost on me, it has an important place, but lets not shame others into injuries. Pursuing these things should come from careful consideration not a "don't be weak" mentality. I go even further indoors to the point of encouraging people to cheat starting positions, or skipping cruxes if they would have otherwise been persuaded to not try a route. I love chasing grades, but sometimes we cripple ourselves with formalities. I believe we don't need to send a route to feel validated, but it should motivate us to push ourselves and not give up. Sadly these false "ethics" in the minds of many, including my own in the past, just simplified into: "if you can't do it proper, just give up". But seeing the smiles on peoples faces for succeeding at moves they thought they couldn't do, and then later routes that they decided they shouldn't try. I love it and won't go back.

[@AlexeiDrummond]

Rock looks mega!

[@ChrisHaileyTrainHardDiveEasy]

You're mega!!!! also yes the rock is mega, you are going to love it if you ever get your ass down there 😂

[@alexpopinga2997]

Is the best climber in NZ a Brit? 🤔

[@ChrisHaileyTrainHardDiveEasy]

The best climber is the one having the most fun sooooooooo...... I know a few that probably have more fun than me but I'm up there 😂 😂 😂

[@OliverBatchelor]

I have seen more grumpy reactions to sandbagged routes! I like the extended draws trick, though you have to get them up there somehow to begin with!

[@sophiedean8333]

Clipstick is a godsend for first two bolts when your at risk of decking

[@ChrisHaileyTrainHardDiveEasy]

zero grump here 😂 I love a good sandbag!!! helps me grow but ill be honest about it for others to not get their feelings hurt. Usually (98% of the time) 23/7a is an onsight... this must just be part of that 2% 😂

[@ChrisHaileyTrainHardDiveEasy]

@sophiedean8333 @OliverBatchelor You should see the clip sticking I did to get the longer draws in 😂 would make them old school head pointers turn in their graves 😬

[@sophiedean8333]

@ChrisHaileyTrainHardDiveEasy where there's a will there's a way 😆

[@ArrampicataGolden]

I live in Italy and I climb mostly in Susa Valley (Turin) olds and nice used splippery crags (ah ah) where the "sandbagging" is a "religion" I would like to post videos of the most classic 7a/7a+ route it will be fun..

[@ArrampicataGolden]

may be it is 32 instead of 23 ah ah ah ah just written at the contrary !

[@ChrisHaileyTrainHardDiveEasy]

😂 im not sure its 32... though some 23 climbers may need to put a 32 amount of effort in to take it home as a trophy 😂