Dynos so Hard They Couldn't be Graded

[@ninjapacquiao15]

I completely agree about the grading thing! For some reason it seems to be an unpopular belief to want to know the grade your climbing. A lot of people at my gym think I’m obsessed with grading but really I just like to track my progress and know what I am climbing

[@xinsanedefeatx]

Grading is one of the worst ways to track progress tho- grading is extremely subjective and most agree that style of climb is more important than grade For example- I've climbed up to V4, can flash most V4's I'm currently capable of sending, gotten to second to last move on a V5, have campused multiple V3's, but have found V2's and V3's that seem utterly impossible Objective training metrics like weight training ("normal" lifting, hangboarding) or perhaps repeatedly sending the same problem are all much more objective ways to track your progress

[@danielredgate]

​@@xinsanedefeatx I think we should all be entitled to our own opinions :) Grading is subjective, and everyone has different strengths, but at the same time, gyms should at least be able to keep grades fairly consistent versus previous routes they have set. As long as they are consistent, you will find there is a pretty clear max grade you can hit and then you can great feeling of accomplishment when you finally start getting boulders of the next grade. My gyms set routes with colours representing fairly narrow grade ranges like V2-V3 etc and then the members can vote using an application what grade they think is correct for each route. This works really well!

[@dankota]

its also a cool way to flex your climbing skills to friends who go to different gyms xD

[@xinsanedefeatx]

@@danielredgate I'm not saying there's anything wrong with wanting to know what grade you're climbing (I grade hunt all the time even tho I know I shouldn't) As far as exercise science goes, the more objective and qualitative the data, the easier it is to use that data as a predictor for future performance and easier it is to isolate variables/training metrics that seem to affect you more I think climbing as a whole is really lacking in applied exercise science. Climbing seems lack of periodized training and specified training, lack of recovery modalities, etc, even at the highest level I don't mean to sound negative, I just think if climbing shifts more towards some of the things I listed, then we'll see a massive jump in performance

[@Rufgaudas]

There are truth to both sides. A lot of times when people see higher grade - they don't even try a single move on it (not like 9A, but lets just say you climb 6A-6B, project 6C, and you never even try to do 7A, just because people are intimidated by the number). I rarely try to go above my comfort grades (6B-6C), though during amateur competitions, we have 50 boulders set-up (From 5- to 8A, majority being 6C-7A+), and route setters during the event intentionally do not put what grades they are. And I was surprised, that few times I tried and actually did few moves on boulders, I would never even try on a normal day, just because later they were graded "7A+ or 7B on it". Ofc I never completed full boulder, but even doing couple moves still felt good. And later my coach showed and explained a bit, how these moves should be done, and even from doing a single mid-route move taught me a lot about positioning, balance, etc. :) But I agree with the video - grades should be listed as what they are, not a huge range.

[@troyleach8]

As a routesetter a lot of the feedback I get is oh this was too hard/soft for the given grade. We give specific grades to climbs at my gym unlike the circuit grading mentioned in your video. I can see the argument for both but I think one of the biggest pros for circuit grading is that as a setter I can spend a lot more time on the quality of movement and the idea rather than nailing a specific grade. I can see how that's annoying not having an objective grade with which to track your progress but grading by design is subjective. There's no right answer but definitely an topic for debate.

[@ClimbingStuff]

A well-set boulder/route is definitely priority. I'd rather climb at a gym with great setting and broad grade ranges than a gym with specific grades and sloppy setting.

[@kris_ncx]

yo bro, hapy to see your channel get more and more traction! great video, and alll hail the chuch of dynology

[@kaycook5763]

the range grading is quite common near me and often you have ranges from V1-4 and V2-5, but I think it’s mostly that because they grade by colour they don’t need to have like 10 different colours of holds as well as being able to use each colour of hold on a range of different grades

[@martinteece8983]

Very cool idea the reverse slop padded floor for when doing the slanted climb. Very cool to see Intelegence and safty

[@FishOnRock]

I, for one, would enjoy seeing you struggle on harder climbs. Very cool to watch stronger climbers

[@jerowersonst2465]

Damn your videos are great. Bet you will blow up in the next months

[@brennansaid2266]

Day 2 of saying this man needs more subs for the quality of these videos

[@danielwoods621]

Boulder Brighton grade listing 0:28. Wasn't expecting that, all the way from lil Ol' England.

[@Blahblahblah51.2]

The picture of the grading scale is from my home gym in the UK

[@fearthagrizz8596]

That last V6-V9 was wild having to wrap around like that

[@gaiaiulia]

That's how they grade in my local gym. Different colours for different grades, but the grade is marked at the start of each route.

[@toad2394]

These two movement gyms in Chicago are my home gyms. I love the route setting and am at one of them almost daily. Just a tip though, if you want to take the mystery out of the grades, they use the KAYA app in both gyms, it would tell you the actual grade of any of the boulders.

[@icenoby]

The picture you used for the grading scale is Boulder Brighton

[@Levimnat]

I think a large reason its like that is because when you set a climb you dont know exactly how hard its going to be until you finish it but you already have to of picked the colour of the boulder.

[@Billy_McIntyre]

Congrats on the views and sub increases recently. I think ur about 2 blow up

[@austinbrown7784]

I’ve loved every movement gym I’ve been to.

[@michaelpook6651]

I've been to Movement in Lincoln Park twice and Wrigleyville once and I really enjoyed both but definitely think 4 grades is too wide. I also think you, myself, and many other people tend to gravitate towards the lower end of each grade range so I think it can be limiting at that wide since you end up spending too much time on things too easy and can't find enough just past your limit. If you come to Milwaukee, Adventure Rock is the local gym and has 3 grade ranges (V1-V3, V3-V5, V5-V7, V7-V9, V9+) and I think those ranges have honestly been my favorite. One grade overlap is good to prevent argueing over range/color and 3 grades is enough to cover any difference in style/morphology. Definitely shoot me a message if you come a little farther north to MKE (there's actually climbing in Wisconsin too, Holy Boulders might as well be the south).

[@Averell64]

I actually really like the circuit grading, first of all - one v5 might feel like a v3 for one person but for another person it’s a lot harder. And the other advantage is that routsetters can concentrate more on making a cool boulder problem than reaching some grade.

[@RaidenDEVOUR]

I climb in Florida and our entire gym sucks down Yerba Mates religiously.

[@connortremblay1259]

I hate grade ranges. I want to know what I'm climbing. My favorite system was a gym that used coloured electrical tape to mark the start and end holds (for the start holds they also would put 4 strips of tape, one for each limb. So if there were four starting holds, each would get a strip, or if there were only two starting holds, both could get two strips, or one could have one and the other three) the colour of the electrical tape signified the difficulty of the route, and they had a different colour for every grade. They also had a handful of routes with black tape that were "mystery routes" anywhere from v0 to v10 (in theory, none that I encountered felt like either extreme) most of the time these mystery routes would just have interesting problem solving or weird moves that made them more difficult to grade, but I liked the idea.

[@joshuaplatko949]

I went to this gym during usac youth nationals, still my favorite gym ever

[@theclimbingzebra]

The picture of the grading system at 0:28 I think was a picture of the grading system of Boulder Brighton.

[@Ghinini]

Went to a movement in Portland Oregon, they had a ramp section there too. Was wild, super cool.

[@rantaleksi7086]

My local gym only has 5 colors and they don't even tell what difficulty range each color represents. It's the only gym I've been to, so I just know that I can climb pink ones (4/5).

[@ClimbingStuff]

What if you find out that pink is V10 - V14 and you're actually strong as shit lol

[@rantaleksi7086]

@@ClimbingStuff I'd jump into my car and go flash Burden of Dreams since it's only 150km from my house

[@lucasvb4372]

​@@rantaleksi7086 just try it anyway :)

[@rantaleksi7086]

@@lucasvb4372 I don't want to embarrass Will and Stefano so I'll have to wait for the media attention to fade first.

[@Jsquared63]

The forbidden downward Dino!?!?!

[@tomber7411]

@ 0:28 it was the boulder brighton grading scale, my local gym! Yurple has now been changed to hot pink though

[@GeorgiaClimbs]

That long wall is amazing... it would be great if I could find one near me!

[@leopoldleoleo]

As a 6’4 V8/9 climber grades mean absolutely nothing to me. When your body gets a little out of the norm everything just gets so subjective/style dependent and some outdoor V3s are basically impossible

[@notapplicable7292]

I personally like the grade ranges. I catch myself not even trying on hard problems when they aren't really my grade despite the fact i'll try my heart out when it's what I consider my grade.

[@serratos97]

hahahaha it's not Yerba "MATE" IS YERBA MATTE, Its in Spanish

[@MythAvatar]

0:28 BOULDER BRIGHTON REPRESENT! THAT'S US!

[@verifiedhandle9103]

My home gym is a movement but our boulders are actually graded thankfully

[@kylemcghee4318]

That's super strange because my local movement grades all their climbs at a specific grade, no range at all they just tell you V4 or V7 whatever Edit: I'm further into the vid and I just wanna mention my movement also has a lot of dynos, there's one they set recently where the starting hold is 2/3 up the wall so you have to do a triple step up on slopey volumes, it's pretty sketch actually lol

[@knuckleskittenmitten6775]

Movement's new strategy is to buy existing gyms and just change the name they keep a lot of the old stuff which might be why

[@michael_angelo]

Chicago is windy and cold as hell in winter. Seek shelter in your local movement climbing gym.

[@alexwhimself]

I personally like the zone holds cause it kinda breaks down the problem in 2, and you can still get satisfaction from only getting the zone (if its a hard problem).

[@lukeroberts1]

you should come to my gym in Detroit. It's literally called "Dyno Detroit" so it's perfect for you!

[@BiggieChungulus]

You climb lines, not grades. Also, given how incredibly suggestive the grading scale is to begin with, it's smarter to create a large overlap. My gym has a pretty crazy 3 grade overlap, and I honestly love it. It also allows for a much harder plataeu breaking grade chase anyway, because once you can climb for example all the "green dots" in the gym in one setting, you can officially say you are a "green dot climber"

[@Porklion]

you climb lines that are within your difficulty range, lmao

[@davidkendall5093]

The gym I set for uses a nice scale I think. We have 4 different colors of tape on the starts. Blue for beginners, greemy intermediate, orange advanced and black very hard. But we also write the targeted grade on the tape

[@ConorW02]

where i live we have both kind of grading systems depending on what gym and i also prefer the specific grading but we also dont have as broad grading in the none specific grading gyms. So it will be like V1 to V3 max then V3 to V4 or V5

[@jamesgroom7281]

yo one of the pics u used on the grading chalk board thingy at 0:38 is at my home wall in England

[@danielwoods621]

Which gym?

[@davidclimbs]

Hey so this is actually the gym that I climb at and everyone agrees that the grading system is wack, but what I don’t understand is that the routsetters actually post the exact grades on an app called Kaya, so I don’t understand why they can’t just put the exact grade on the wall so idk 🤷

[@mongoose1804]

7:30 this is NOT the reason ppl dont like comp boulders in the gym

[@Greesher]

Was gonna comment the same. People don’t like comp boulders cause not everybody can/wants to dyno to a crappy sloper. They’re made for a slightly different crowd. Nothing wrong with comp boulders, but they’ve certainly got a different approach than regular style boulders.

[@AidanXavier1]

I've been to that gym and the grade range was annoying, but they did have the specific grade on Kaya. Sucks to have to use an app to see what you're climbing but at least it's possible.

[@pawetuczynski3581]

Hey, awesome video, might be off topic but since you love comp style boulders, you might like to check out some good shoes for that. There was so much toe hook potential in this video, this shit is awesome with something like scarpa drago or la sportiva solution/theory/skwama, I got scarpa drago some time ago and my fun from comp style skyrocketed. Those shoes also enabled bat hangs which is like the best thing in the world (coming from a fellow dyno lover)

[@kevjeong]

they have all the grades on kaya, a climbing app btw. i think movement LP is graded a bit harder than WV at least for bouldering

[@titanpolus5088]

If you're in Illinois should try coming and visit me at upper limits in Bloomington

[@Yildun28]

An entire gym of bouldering? What is this heresy.

[@leowizard4160]

Do you think you are gonna try any other Chicago gyms?

[@ClimbingStuff]

I'll be back for sure, it's only a 4 1/2 hour drive and I have friends up there. I'd like to try the outdoor bouldering gym they have there.

[@jamesjmn9624]

Go to Brooklyn boulders, best gym in Chicago (not unpopular opinion)

[@macknstyle]

Daniel Woods + Owen Wilson

[@gavinstephenson1083]

This is a shame that they grade it like that because movement here in MD is really amazing about their grades and readability of their routes

[@burneden]

If you want people to "try" routes outside their range, just set it ungraded for a time. Its that simple.

[@qazaqwert]

I hate gyms that dont give specific ratings. As long as the grading is consistent having specific grades is super helpful to track progress. I really dont understand the supposed benefits to doing the ranged grading. I think it also causes some gyms to slack a bit on setting and end up having large gaps between difficulties. tldr: Seeing number go up makes my brain like it more.

[@Abzan92]

Should've graded them on a scale of 3.5 to 5...

[@cern1999sb]

Those grade ranges are so wide they're completely useless. I'll just hop on this V2 as a nice warm-up. Turns out to be a V5. Pulls a tendon and can't climb for the rest of the session.

[@huguesdorban7488]

Your chanel is 😊

[@Greesher]

Yeah linkin park jokes r just sad now :/ Good video though sir

[@ClimbingStuff]

A lot of their songs hit differently now, songs that I used to think were edgy are actually tragic now.

[@Greesher]

@@ClimbingStuff got that right dude

[@TrebleWing]

Shoulda rated it '2 star - 5 star' lol. (jk)

[@cshaps1212]

I absolutely hate when gyms a grading scale... there completely trash for training.

[@soejrd24978]

Lol v2-v5 is a joke

[@wulvw]

erster