Clocking 2004 4Runner V8 4WD actuator assembly 4HI 4Low Center diff lock

[@Theweldingmillennial]

I looked for this info for years!!! only found your channel because my 4Lo just started working after 6 years!!! I had the actuator apart one time. Clocking all those gears is a pain in the butt. I used a scribe to mark each edge of the indicators. Never had the guts to take the whole thing apart. I just used the shift in and out a few hundred times method until it starts working. Great info for 4runner nuts. I Could see some people messing this up bad, definably a do at your own risk job.

[@loganpendleton]

amazing video!! this is the only video i can find doing this with the v8 actuator with the 2 rods thank you so much!!

[@jakemir]

thank you, I was also able to replace my actuator without removing the transfer case. 2003-2009 4Runner replace transfer case actuator without removing the transfer case kzbin.info/www/bejne/f6KQdKipjLZkjdE

[@shawnyoung9142]

Thanks for the info. These should be serviceable .

[@pavelmatoska7573]

Thank you so much, this video saved me.

[@jakemir]

Glad it helped!

[@bjeff1981]

Were you doing all this upside down under the truck? I don't see why the actuator doesn't simply slide off....and then very carefully slide back on so everything stays in sync...ie with the vehicle in park so the rods don't move. I only need to replace the big o-ring :(

[@jakemir]

There are two shafts so the first one is accessible but the second is not because it is blocked by the first shaft. The only way to remove all the parts is to remove the actuator. I have several videos showing the removal and clocking but it is impossible to access the second motor and gears with the actuator still in the transfer case

[@AriaPersiaTaj]

Thank you very much

[@mikeb.7068]

Awesome video, thank you! From what I've read the Chinese actuators are no good.

[@jakemir]

If you buy the Chinese version you will want to exchange the gears from the original. I tried one and it work a few times and failed. The gear cracked and I believe I have it in the video. I purchased used actuators on eBay but it took three tries before I found d a used one where both motors worked. The motors can be tested before installation. They are the first four terminals and they are reversed to go the opposite direction

[@terrywalters5410]

I'm confused so do I need to clock my previously working actuator before I can reinstall it? I took it off replaced the seal because it was leaking now I can't get it back on?

[@jakemir]

You only need to clock it if you take it apart

[@terrywalters5410]

So is there a better more simplified video on clocking it? I'm assuming I have to take it apart and Line the gears up a certain direction before the rods will slide back in?

[@jakemir]

Easiest way to buy a used one and carefully take it apart while taking pictures to see the orientation of the gears.

[@GoodkatNW]

I'm trying to do this on a 2005 sequoia (which I believe has the exact same actuator). I might be missing something here, but when you push in the last bit doesn't that slightly move the clocking position? Super difficult to get it correct with that second rod (the diff lock) in the way. I previously managed to do it just by trial and error, but I must have ruined one of those small o-rings, because yesterday I discovered the actuator case entirely full of transfer case fluid.

[@jakemir]

I found it easier to buy a used actuator off eBay and take it apart. Verify the motors were working and then swap it without removing the transfer case and mine has been working pretty well.

[@GoodkatNW]

@@jakemir I think my difficulty has just been getting it back on without forcing the gears. The upper (diff rod) makes it hard to get the lower cover in place without changing the timing. Ordered new seals and I'm going to give it another try, because it appears my motor is fine and it's just the seals letting transfer case fluids in

[@jakemir]

You do not have to take apart the actuator to reinstall it onto the rods. I have a video showing how you just push the actuator onto the rods and it will go on up to about a half an inch and then you tighten the 312 mm bolts evenly to torque it back on and you’ll hear it push the rods into the gears naturally.I originally thought I had to disassemble it to install the gears onto the rods, but that is not the case. The motors are really difficult to turn, but they will turn. You just have to tighten the bolts slowly and evenly around the three sides of the actuator. I hope this makes sense.

[@GoodkatNW]

@@jakemir Thank you. The videos you show demonstrate the timing while the rod is inserted into the actuator; how should it be timed if just pushing the actuator back on? I assume that pushing it on will move the gears, and change the position of the two timed gears

[@jakemir]

When you remove the actuator, it will not take it out of time. The clocking will remain the same and when you reinstall it, it will push the gears, but it will put it in the right position. The gear has to grab the rod so when both the rods are pushed in, and you mount the actuator it will force the gear forward about a quarter inch which just engages the gear onto the rod

[@ronaldrussell5481]

Very informative, Thank you! I have an '03 of same flavor. But there is no way I would attempt to mess with this laying on my back under the 4Runner. If I have to mess with this actuator, T-case coming off and I'll go from there.

[@jakemir]

I did find a way to remove the actuator without taking off the transfer case. I was using these actuators to understand how they operated. It took several used actuators before I found one where both motors worked. Here is the link 2003-2009 4Runner replace transfer case actuator without removing the transfer case kzbin.info/www/bejne/f6KQdKipjLZkjdE

[@ronaldrussell5481]

Yeah, I watched that video too, might give that a shot if the need arises. I'm 76 years old, so not pulling the T-case would be preferred! Thanks!@@jakemir

[@spencerlane4052]

Hey Jacob! I think I’ve really done a number on my system… the center diff is locked… I’ve taken the the actuator off of the rods… the 4lo is pushed in… but the center diff is pulled out… and I cannot push it back in, even with the car in neutral.

[@jakemir]

See if this helps 4Runner V8 Aisin SAT-003 4WD Actuator Replacement Full Video 36410-60093 kzbin.info/www/bejne/rnzKc5KNedOnqrM It should move easily in and out, you may have to get all four wheels off the ground and spin the drive shafts to get it to move

[@spencerlane4052]

@@jakemir do you think I will be able to place the actuator back on with the center diff pulled out in the locked position… does that mean I will have to clock the actuator into the center diff on position before screwing it back on? Sorry man, I know this is a lot. But I’ve been trying to figure this out for the last two years.

[@jakemir]

Both rods must be forward to install the actuator. Get the vehicle off the ground to allow the front and rear tires to move and the center differential rod should move forward or leave it in neutral on a flat surface and rock it until the rod moves forward then install the actuator

[@spencerlane4052]

@@jakemir thank you! Center diff went back in… both rods are now pushed in. Just waiting on the Aisin actuator.

[@waelelbai]

Got a 06 Seqouia 4wd lights both 4hi and 4 lo are on but the shifting in R or D it wont move. I hear actuators moving and shifting and car trying to move with continuous noises

[@jakemir]

Loosen the three 12 mm bolts holding the actuator to the point the actuator will rock and try again

[@KareemKhan-yg7uv]

V6 model actuator must be part of this video.

[@choose-yp1bq]

why when you turn on 4wd or 2wd it turns on and then turns off after a few seconds

[@jakemir]

I am sorry I do not understand the question. The 4Runner’s does not have a 2WD light: if you mean the 4Lo begins flashing that would mean it is trying to engage and is not fully engaged. There is also a center diff lock light that can do the same thing. After the rod fully seats in position the light will be steady. There is an encoder reading the rod position and this can occur if the 4LO or Center diff lock rod is binding and will not fully engage in the correct position. I have some additional videos showing the replacement of the actuator that may help to understand kzbin.info/www/bejne/rnzKc5KNedOnqrMsi=Dy8jcNUMECslsAoR

[@jonmccann1324]

I see how clocking matters, but doesn’t it get all messed up if you have to pull/push the top guide rod access the bottom rod?

[@jakemir]

If you remove it and reinstall it will not go in completely. I would suggest plugging in the new replacement and confirming it is in 4HI and center diff lock is open. Then put the vehicle in neutral and pull out the top rod which is 4LO. Unplug the actuator and install it inserting the top rod fully. Plug it back in and turn on the ignition with the vehicle in neutral and set the vehicle to 4LO. You should have a second person set to 4Low while you put pressure on the actuator so the actuator motor pulls itself back on. I will have a video up soon.

[@jonmccann1324]

@@jakemir thnx. This was really helpful. There’s next to no videos out there on this actuator.

[@erjelmanalastas7924]

⁠​⁠@@jakemirHey Jacob, it’s me again. I finally got to pull out my actuator from my 06 Sequoia. Come to find out there was a little bit of corrosion (grease looked discolored like rust) on one of the gears, I cleaned it all up and did exactly what’s on this video to get it clocked. I plugged it in to have the actuator on 4HI. I didn’t press the center diff lock button (assuming it’s open after following the procedure in this video). What do I do with the bottom shaft prior to installing back the actuator motor? Thanks again. Also, on my first attempt, I got 4HI to engaged and disengaged along with the center diff lock. I then started messing with 4LO and center diff lock and all the lights came back blinking.

[@jakemir]

@@erjelmanalastas7924 no need to move the shafts or put it in neutral, just place the actuator on and press it in moving back and fourth until it is within a quarter inch and then tighten the three bolts evenly a little at a time and you should hear binding. I think one of your motors is bad because it is getting stuck. Listen to the actuator. If it is beeping it is timed out and stuck. I would suggest another actuator

[@erjelmanalastas7924]

@@jakemirI tested both motors with a 9V battery and they both worked. That’s an indicator of them working properly correct?

[@LaurentZekri]

Jacob, your video is saving me a lot time, thank you! I have one question, Do the clocking of your indicators mark Center Diff locked or unlocked and Transfer Case in 4Hi or 4Lo? Again, your video is appreciated as I am about to service TC and Actuator on my 2005 V8, so many thx. Laurent

[@jakemir]

I made another video showing you do not have to remove the transfer case . 2003-2009 4Runner replace transfer case actuator with removing the transfer case kzbin.info/www/bejne/f6KQdKipjLZkjdE The encoders are the small indicators for your dash and computer but the gears are important too. Just take photos as you remove each layer to remember the sequence

[@ravenacacia7109]

got cdl to work but 4lo is still blinking

[@jakemir]

I have a video showing how to replace the entire actuator because clocking the actuator is really difficult if it is off at all it will not work correctly

[@TheMsmm93]

OMG, quite complex.. Why the manufacturers moved away from mechanical way to electrical actuators? Is it worth ?

[@jakemir]

I feel the same way, I wish they had it like the FJ with just a lever. So simple

[@zabalogne1]

this cannot be done on the vehicle

[@jakemir]

It can but it is difficult because you will be upside down and you cannot get to the second motor because the shaft will be in your way