Will a Diode Laser Engrave Steel? | xTool D1 Testing

Today we're testing an xTool D1 laser engraver to see if it can mark stainless steel. We'll also try out some CerMark laser marking spray.
*This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated
Purchase from xTool*: bit.ly/3LCvbwG
Purchase from Amazon*: amzn.to/3J5R3in
00:00 Intro
00:40 The xTool D1 Laser
03:08 The Project
04:11 Making Artwork
11:33 Lightburn
19:47 Direct-Marking Stainless
24:27 Initial Results
25:32 Cermark Spray
27:12 Lasering Cermark
27:49 Washing and Comparison
30:20 Results
Other stuff used in this video:
*This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated
CerMark Laser Marking Aerosol (Amazon*): amzn.to/3uOdGTm
Milwaukee Brushless Impact Driver (Amazon*): amzn.to/2Xgcjjc
Shars Ultra Precision 1-2-3 Blocks (pair) (eBay*): ebay.to/2RxwqWc
Raw Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
creativecommons.org/licenses/b...

[@KizmitMakesIt]

I've only recently discovered your channel and have been watching a lot of your past videos. Just wanted to give you props on having a ton of really great projects and very engaging style of presenting them! I'm in the process of acquiring all the bits necessary for both the lathe vfd upgrade, and the electronic lead screw. Thanks for taking the time to put together these great videos.

[@jfl-mw8rp]

Outstanding James! Perfection is in the details. The older you get, the more appreciate it. Can't wait for the anodized aluminum.

[@tiaanlangner8009]

I enjoyed this review, thank you James. You inspired me to build my own CNC Mill and all the information you provide and share is amazing and so detailed....keep it up

[@MichaelLloyd]

Very nice work! The added text and outlines enhanced the look of the panel a lot

[@hansenprecision9390]

All of your videos are terrific, James! I am extremely impressed by the breadth of your knowledge and the wide variety of builds you successfully execute. Only problem is, I see you using something and am sure I need the item you are using!! I guess a xTool is now in my future!

[@larrysmurthwaite773]

Looks great! I agree the second effort has a much better contrast. Great content as usual.

[@ttfranks952]

I like that you uses mutable programs and different applications to get this job done. You are very knowledgeable and a good narrator. When you do have something go wrong you show it so people know it happens and can make adjustments with some help from you. Thank You for your time and expertise.

[@outsidescrewball]

Great video production/discussion/demonstration….enjoyed and nice finish!!

[@ComgrowOfficial]

Amazing video! plz keep them coming! Great job!!!😍

[@jhawker2895]

Your attention to detail is amazing ... Thanks for Sharing ... Stay Safe and well ...

[@TheUncleRuckus]

Wow looks great James! I'm looking forward to the anodized aluminum video. 👍👍

[@gunsmither]

Excellent sir, thank you for making this video. You have a great talent for explaining things !

[@postiemania]

Very nice finish, I will try this method and thanks for sharing.

[@RRINTHESHOP]

Nice, very informative. I like the final product.

[@joell439]

James - you’re having endless fun 👍👍😎👍👍

[@IceCreams62]

You can use T1/T2 layer instead of 02 layer so you can frame without really burn the path.

[@DavidLindes]

Most excellent. I think I'm envious of your shop. :D

[@joopterwijn]

Damn (sorry for the expression 😔) you are for me one of the most serious fabricators on KZbin. You work ethic, detailing, explaining,… and so much more are through expiring!

[@bh3141]

nice edit as always

[@hankjaworski1190]

Very informative video, easy to listen to.

[@Snugggg]

thank you for showing your errors - so helpful for people learning to troubleshoot for their own projects

[@chiparooo]

Frickin’ lasers! Great project to try this out on. Another professional job. I have see these lasers advertised and demo’d everywhere. Would be interested in your final thoughts on the product after your aluminum video. So far, it looks very good to me for a hobbyist. Thanks for sharing!

[@CruiseMonkeyGames]

Excellent video. My partner and I are looking to do some motorcycle and car part customizing using a laser and I wasn't sure if they diode would get the job done. Thanks for showing me the possibilities. Great video, well paste and excellently put together.

[@rodneycassidy6037]

Man thanks for the dxf tip in fusion. Always learn so much from you.

[@smbrown]

DXF export doesn’t appear to exist in non-commercial version, I use Shaper Origin plug-in to export SVG from Fusion then direct import to Lightburn.

[@GBWM_CNC]

Great result!

[@Sawmods]

Ive been waiting for someone to do this with that machine. Im ordering one tomorrow.

[@bfx8185]

Nice result indeed ! 👍👍👍

[@TimeWasted8675309]

James, I use Laserbond 100 which is a lesser expensive alternative to Cermark and does an excellent job. I've used it on metals and glassware and it looks great. Also I've learned that as soon as I get the aerosol can in my hand, muscle memory would take over and I'd be in "paint full-coverage mode"... had to break that habit and learn to only spray the product where there was going to be etching.. as you say, it is expensive so no need to waste on un-etched areas.

[@paulmace7910]

Amazing! It would be interesting to see what level of detail that setup can deliver.

[@Clough42]

It's very impressive. They claim a spot size of 0.08mm, and it will indeed fuse a single line of Cermark. I was impressed.

[@jonasfelleki8374]

Beautiful job!

[@troywahl9731]

The whole issue of the metal warping here is essentially the same issue when welding or surface grinding thin metal: too much heat concentrated into too small of an area at once. Two suggestions to reduce metal warping. The first is to back the workpiece with a block of a good conductor (such as aluminum) instead of the wood. The other is to change the order of operations so no area is heated for long periods (do a little engraving in an area then move to the opposite end of your work piece) - this may not be practical with the software you use (it would be trivial with MasterCam).

[@danhellgren5671]

Nice work! Since I don't own a laser I would have made the panels out of pcb. The connector holes and silk screen will be perfect. But a trial using laser and powder coat would be really interesting.

[@spudnickuk]

Thank you for sharing, your video shows a diode laser actually burning on stainless and for a hobbyist this is good to know. I have been looking into getting a laser cutter for ages but the cost of getting a Co2 laser is to much for what I intend to use one for, and this type is at good price.

[@jonjingleheimerschmidt5153]

"Artisan Robot" - The best two word description of the XTool D1 that I've ever heard.

[@MotoRideswJohn]

This looks SO good, you've got me wanting to remake the gland plate of my control box, with my diode laser. Sharpie just doesn't seem to cut it, now.

[@Clough42]

Yeah, that's the danger of discovering something new and awesome.

[@janamoraal7762]

Very Nice Laser cutting - Thanks

[@abbv2x]

Hi James, at 14:15, you can assign a tool path (T1 and T2 in the layer pallette) which still lets you properly frame but will not output. Nice work by the way!

[@Clough42]

Cool. I'll have to try it.

[@joujimiichi1]

I just got an S1 40w and have already engraved anodized aluminum and found it was easy and the results were fantastic. Judging by your process here, I think stainless may be just a degree of higher difficulty but I’m about to give it a go. Great tip on the cercoat

[@johannglaser]

Looking forward to your aluminium engraving video! Also, I would be interesting in seeing a very close zoom (and/or microscope image) of the markings.

[@Clough42]

Noted!

[@billmaguire6216]

James, That looks like it was custom ordered from a factory. Excellent job on the entire presentation.

[@paulmanhart4481]

Another great video James. What are those white connectors you have on your panel? I’m looking for a 3 pin connector like that. Thanks, Paul

[@paulsim7589]

My top tip for using the 'paint' type spray can, is once you have finished using it flip it upside down and give it a quick press. This will clear the spray head and stops it blocking up.

[@WimsMill]

Nice and interesting video! I put a diode laser on my CNC and had some similar problems with laser marking. I used LaserWeb to generate G-code. Which worked but it was not ideal with a lot of wasted time. Then I just used the horizontal milling in Fusion 360 and set the end mill to 0.1 or 0.2mm depending on the material. To export, I modified the post processor to turn off the laser at every linking move. This greatly increased speed of my projects. Also, the spindle speed can be changed to set laser power. In my case 24000 rpm = 100%.

[@RyanTehPyro]

So THAT's what offset fill is.. Good stuff!

[@NagelHausForge]

Great video!! I just purchased the D1 20W laser platform for use in my knife making shop. Does that spray on stuff work with other metals as well? Like high carbon steel?

[@jeffkthompson]

Durablack is an amazing option for decorative labels and machine tags. Takes detail really well and is shockingly durable

[@yychummer]

Great detail thanks

[@mw8151]

„And its a freaking laser!“ totally felt that😎🤙

[@carlwhite8225]

This is amazing, thanks.

[@travisdent7009]

Excellent tip about setting the power to zero for outside boundaries of the part. Also appreciate the info about how to get the laser to follow the line of the geometry, instead of back and forth like a dot matrix printer. I have a Ortur LM3 and these tips saved time (and money) immediately which is an excellent bonus. Like the switching between Fusion 360, Illustrator, and LightBurn. 👍👍

[@jakerazmataz852]

Just remember to click "show".

[@sebastianuchman3145]

Great job!

[@ChrisHalden007]

Great video. Thanks

[@meenboli]

I use the CerMark (yes it's a bit expensive!) - it washes off with water and a gentle cloth (much easier than rubbing with a rag) - great video though 👍🏻

[@wernerlang3115]

Wow, what an amazing introduction !🎩

[@dachr2]

That looks amazing! Now I want a laser as well...

[@GregBadabinski]

So after watching the whole video, I have a quick question. What would happen if you tried to engrave "regular" steel? I'd love to be able to laser a makers mark onto my parts, but I typically only use 4140, reaching for other steels as needed (like 303 stainless for things like dumbbell handles). Would it cause excessive oxidation? Or is there another reason you can only use stainless? I should probably just Google this, but other folks may be wondering the same thing so I figured I'd ask here.

[@pasquasio]

Great information.

[@leec2106]

WOW, I like how it looked even before you did the one with the spray. I have an Amazon mini router 3018, it has a blue 450 nm laser, I may try that. I was going to do my control panel in 1/8 inch MDF to attach to my control box. You are moving way faster than I am. I started to build my EDM machine over a year ago. At first, I wanted to do a wire EDM but, I went with a probe in a drill bit head. I have not designed my circuit yet for Electrical discharge. I am getting there! Take care, thank you for your videos. Keep up the great works. Lee

[@Clough42]

I'm very curious about EDM. I tried to get involved with AvE's project a few years ago when it looked like he was headed that direction, but it didn't go anywhere.

[@rosebuddesign635]

Very nice video. What about durability regarding the engraving just with the laser? I know it's not as dark as with Cermark but this thing is too expensive in Europe.

[@jimzielinski946]

Thanks for sharing. I'm only getting interested in dabbling with low cost lasers since I'm already retired. I like how you explained everything very simply. My one concern is eye safety. I have watched a number of videos where they mention that not all laser glasses are of adequate quality.

[@Clough42]

I bought safety glasses from an independent source.

[@colbylangley9545]

Great channel James, I like the way you use a lot of different types of machines for your projects. I have picked up a several tips that I can use at work where I use some of the same type machines and do some CAD work too. I do have one tip for aligning your parts for laser etching. To save time on the alignment you could have the laser burn the outline of the part on a scrap piece of wood or cardboard then put your part on the outline instead of having to frame it several times to get it lined up. You would probably need to be able to set an origin point at the laser for this to work good and I don’t think I saw you do that, not sure if you can on your machine. Keep the videos coming!!

[@Clough42]

Good tip. I'm not totally sure about this particular laser. It de-energizes the motors as it sits idle, so I'm not sure how well it keeps position. But I have a project coming up that requires very precise alignment, and that's a fantastic way to do it.

[@Clough42]

Thanks for the idea, Colby. I had some trouble getting the laser to repeat in the same position every time, but once I got it sorted, it works a treat. I used the technique in a video that will be posted this coming Saturday, and it saved me a lot of trouble.

[@samrogers8778]

Looks great! It's funny how we often miss the little details like the sanding direction that seem obvious in hindsight. Anyone else notice that the ATC frame isn't lined up with the LMIT frame? =P

[@Clough42]

I noticed it while editing. If it weren't on the bottom of the box, I would re-do it.

[@Chris-oj7ro]

@@Clough42 As someone who can't let go of the little things, I admire your restraint!

[@PurpleJersey999]

i know im whining but man... nowadays, every video that's interesting (including this one... thats a compliment) is a 15-20-30 min video. i just dont have time to download all this into my brain 🤣 Great video. Very informative. You have a new sub.

[@jimhinkle7245]

THANK YOU for including your mistakes. That helps me alot!!!

[@daxmakes]

You know, I was just thinking; if you were planning on doing a batch of the same panel, making a paint 'masking panel' from thin plywood/MDF would be a great way to save CerMark and also minimise clean-up after laser engraving.

[@Hossimo]

Missed opportunity with your logo on the control panel, but very nice. your getting a nice collection of tools!

[@Clough42]

Just wait. :)

[@624Dudley]

As usual, you have impressed me with your ability to absorb an unfamiliar chunk of software, learn all its buttons, and then remember it all well enough to narrate its use in real time. Dunno how you do that…

[@Clough42]

I use the space in my mind where other people remember each others' names. :)

[@624Dudley]

Ah, I see. Worthy swap, that.

[@Metalloys]

Hey, great work. I used to make control panels like these, but I used a different technique : I simply printed on a transparent film, with a high quality inkjet printer, then sandwitched the film between the metal panel and an acrylic (2mm thick) plate with the same openings as in the metal panel and screwed everything together. That tech. gave me 3 advantages : can print in color, and being able to recover/modify and just throw away the old film, and finally the outer acrylic layer is postive protection that can be cleaned easily without worrying about the legends being wiped away. Hope this helps.

[@Clough42]

That's a good process. If you can laser cut the acrylic, even better. :)

[@rpavlik1]

Can also use a vinyl cutter and a temporary or permanent adhesive vinyl. It's like a laser cutter but with an xacto knife instead of a laser...

[@Metalloys]

@@Clough42 sure, that's what I did exactly.

[@jakerazmataz852]

Holy crap. I've been watching these vids for a couple days and I'm really close to dropping the ball. I caught that you didn't set the start position. When you went to frame, I said, he needs to set the origin. I think I'm ready.😁

[@wileecoyoti]

Looks pretty good! If you like we could try and burn one using our fiber laser for you just for comparison. It definitely cuts material away as opposed to oxidizing, though not super deep.

[@airgunningyup]

awesome , looks super professional were you making these plates commercially.

[@Clough42]

It's way too slow for commercial use.

[@filipstoll9899]

Great work! I'm curious what is happening to the g0704? Will you use the old head/spindle for that machine now when the F30 spindle is on the router? Best regards from Sweden 🇸🇪

[@Clough42]

Haven't decided yet.

[@Moehre040]

Gotta say that looks a lot better than the engraving our CO2 Laser at work does on stainless

[@sblack48]

The laser cross hairs for precision alignment of the head with the work piece looks like a very useful feature. The creality falcon laser, which I bought, doesn’t seem to have anything like that ☹️

[@user-tr3cy7sj2q]

in lightburn you hit can set the power to 1% and hit the fire button and youll get a red dot you can use to line it up

[@andriosz]

Nice, thumbs up :) I would probably spray some clearcoat over it.

[@jonbozzy9600]

Try using Fill shapes individually in your settings. that might speed things up too. I know this was posted 7 months ago but might help in the future.

[@CraigLYoung]

Thanks for sharing 👍

[@7alfatech860]

That is one cool panel model. Did you have to model each of the connectors, or is there a source one can download them from?

[@Clough42]

The connector models are generally available from the manufacturers or the large component distributors. In many cases, the 3D model is a part of the PCB footprint for PCB components, and you can export the final PCB model, complete with components, from the PCB design software. I was able to find all of the parts I needed for this panel from Mouser, Digi-Key, Molex, and TE Connectivity directly.

[@ryanstafford9717]

thanks. that was helpful. just got the same laser, was curious about the effects of add ons like that. i would have been fine with the original, or maybe another pass (or two)? anyways, very cool, something i will be doing soon!! thanks

[@raulc398]

Great work!!,why is the ATC not lining up at top with Unit rectangle?that bothers me immensely LOL!!Cheers from Toronto Canada!!

[@Clough42]

I could say I did it just to bug people, but the reality is that I noticed it while editing the video.

[@FilmFactry]

I wonder if you can test regular powder coating powder. Comes in many colors. Should work like the spay you used at a fraction of the cost. And you could do different colors.

[@danwatson3944]

Have you tried cylindrical pieces? Along the length or around the circumference? Thanks

[@DougsMessyGarage]

I've got a K-40 laser in my workshop. I'll have to give this a try.

[@Clough42]

The Cermark should work well with a CO2 laser as well.

[@markgreen2770]

Just bought this laser and this is just what I want to do with it. Can you explain the surface brushing you did?

[@MrUSNMasterChief]

outstanding!!!!

[@shaynekielmann-kn2tx]

This is a really good video , super informative and really helpful. I really wavering on what machine i am gonna buy .. I am starting of as a complete newbie with lasers though i have some experience with a mori seiki cnc machine that a friend of mine owns and has been cutting trick high performance parts fro motor cycles fro years now. I have a ever growing itch to further my experience with cnc , So i am a small business owner as well , i am a drywall man , renovations and remodeling service provider, I am collectively buying tools for this and believe it or not its really easy to get them mixed up with others on job sites ie batteries cordless tools , hand tools ect. My solution is i am gonna purchase a laser engraver to put my brand on all my equipment and create a way to hopefully solve the problem of tools being mistakenly switched out. Plus like the video i just watched do some projects like you just showed . Thanks for the video,.

[@canadianavenger]

might be interesting to try powder coat instead of the cermark, then you might be able to have different colors as well. (also handy if you are already set up for powder coating, you don't need to but anything) Great video though, as always packed with great info. and good to know a small laser like still has enough power to mark stainless.

[@melgross]

I do powder coating, and I can powder coat characters over bare metal, or even a powder coat, though it’s a hassle. But sometimes powder, or any paint, isn’t the look desired. So burning characters through the powder, while it might work, may not be what is wanted.

[@jobkneppers]

Nice work as always James. One thing could be better I think from a graphic design point; the border outlines are too close to each other which makes them connected for a human eye. If the separation is just a few millimeter wider it looks cleaner and more defined as separate areas. Small tip. Thank you! Best, Job

[@Clough42]

It's a design challenge, because if you make the borders smaller, you start running into the connector lock nuts, and this is a visual challenge as well.

[@donteeple6124]

Wow James, very neat. I've been looking into lasers just haven't found the one for me yet. I'd like to be able to utilize one on rounded surfaces ie: for gun barrels in SS and 4140 and different chrome-moly barrel steels.

[@j.dietrich]

You need a machine with a rotary axis. They're available as an optional extra for a wide range of machines. If you want to do deep engraving of steel, you'll probably want a fiber laser.

[@Clough42]

I have the rotary axis for this machine, but haven't tried it yet.

[@Clough42]

I have the rotary axis for this machine, but I'm not sure it would manage a full-length barrel without some extra fixturing.

[@campkohler9131]

Great video! Suppose you put a tiny mic on the head, amplify the sound of the cooling fan, and, from a speaker at the edge of the machine, flood the area with out-of-phase sound. Will that cut down the whine?

[@danielrogers6090]

The brushed stainless looks amazing! How did you do it😁

[@Clough42]

I just used the cheap Bauer brand surface conditioning tool from Harbor Freight. I think Eastwood introduced theirs first, but there are a lot of copies in the market now. I screwed the panel to a piece of wood and used the 40-grit stripping drum.

[@dannywilsher4165]

That was so interesting I watched it twice...

[@joelrggizmo1373]

For doing acrylics try using. 20 oz. Flat Gray Cold Galvanizing Compound Spray this also works with glass salsa works with shiny medals to cut down the reflection during the process of etching.

[@Clough42]

You mean for etching acrylic? I would worry about potentially getting zinc vapors airborne.

[@iraherrero9894]

Good informative video. Would have been nice to see the marks up close to see the edging of the marks to see how crisp it is or isn’t. But overall good video.

[@amundsen575]

Quite impressive, that laser module has 4 diodes and an extremely small kerf (Dot) , I have my 5W laser module attached to my router running mach3, I would like to use light burn as it is specific to lasers and good reviews. Excellent Panel

[@Clough42]

This one has two, for a total of 10W optical output. I have seen advertising for a 4-diode 20W module, but haven't seen it on the market yet.

[@tukes23]

James, what is the program that you are using to screen capture when you are using Fusion 360? I like that it continually highlights the cursor.

[@Clough42]

I'm using Faststone capture. It's not sophisticated, but it works.

[@sblack48]

Do you think the cermark would work on top of a powder coated panel or would it burn off the powder coat?

[@redone823]

Would you share the lazer safety glasses you used? Thanks.

[@BitSmythe]

12:20. Play around with LightBurn. You’ll find it’s remarkably easy to control sizes, alignments and other design elements. You just need a little familiarity with it’s tool set. I decided to buy it, just after testing it for 2 minutes!

[@Clough42]

Same here. I won't buy another laser that doesn't support it.

[@gregfeneis609]

Very nice looking panel! Another laser engraving technique is that lasers cutters can burn through surface anodizing on aluminum.

[@gregfeneis609]

EG If those electrical panels were alu and had a black anodized surface, the laser engraving would look silver/alu color.