Making 3D Printed Fog Buster Mounts with Loc-Line

Today, I'm finally getting around to mounting a dual-nozzle Fog Buster on my CNC mill. I show how I designed the 3D printed parts in Fusion 360 and assembled the mounts on the mill.
Printable parts are available: www.thingiverse.com/thing:465...
Tools and parts used in this video:
*This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated
1/2" Loc-Line (Amazon*): amzn.to/333ilnb
1/2" Loc-Line Assambly Pliers (Amazon*): amzn.to/38VG78x
Allen Metric Metric Hex Key Set (*Amazon): amzn.to/2BVUYNw
Allen SAE Hex Key Set (*Amazon): amzn.to/2BsnIfP
Yeti Rambler 14ox Mug (Amazon*): amzn.to/3nAC59q
2" Kant Twist Universal Clamp (Amazon*): amzn.to/2UG76wv
Grizzly G0704 Mill (Amazon*): amzn.to/32rutgP
Miller Syncrowave 210 TIG MIG Stick Welder (Amazon*): amzn.to/35JEnx5

[@joeldriver381]

That weld looks great for your first work!!!

[@VladekR]

Some people are quick learners, I am not 😂

[@SlamminGraham]

It's also a bit painful since aluminum is one of the more notoriously difficult metals to weld, and TIG is one of the more notoriously difficult welding techniques to master.

[@MrZX1206]

I am genuinely jealous of your Fusion 360 & 3d printing abilities.

[@Clough42]

It has been brought to my attention that the Fogbuster spray head files I used were not being legally distributed, and have since been taken down, so I have removed my derived spray head files from Thingiverse. If you would like to support the original designer, please consider purchasing your parts here: www.gforcesolutions.com

[@loupitou06fl]

I've been using a fog buster for several years now and I find that the most efficient positions for the 2 nozzles are 3 and 6 o'clock instead or 3 & 9 because the opposite air streams prevent good chip evacuation. Thanks a lot for sharing the files - I will definitely try the loc-line mount instead of the original arms

[@billstrahan4791]

Don't let anyone discourage you! That weld looks like someone who's been welding for days, not day! :) Seriously, good as always!

[@confroter]

Hell, I've seen people that have been welding for years whose weld's are worse than his!

[@billstrahan4791]

@@confroter Totally agreed. I was just joking, he is clearly a quick learner.

[@jonty2020]

Best way to learn is jump straight in... Those welds look pretty good. The whole video was interesting. Thanks.

[@lowellhouser7731]

LOVE this setup.

[@joell439]

Another great episode using many of the tools you have at your disposal to solve an issue. Excellent result. I learn something knew every time I watch one of your episodes. Thank you James....... 👍👍😎👍👍

[@FreemanPascal]

The finished product looks sweet. Nice work.

[@44mod]

The weld looks great good penetration. Who cares what it looks like that is what a grinder with a flapper pad on it is for. Great Job. I have been welding race cars and racing then for 40 years and I started welding just like you, trial and practice. Great Job!

[@wags9777]

As long as the metal hold together it matters not what it looks like

[@Know-Way]

Just finished the video. Fantastic! thanks. I just got my first 3D printer a few weeks ago and am working through the learning curve with the printer and CAD (Fusion 360). One thing I learned recently (after 100's of hours of KZbin videos) was moving the timeline bug. At ~17:25 you added fillets and mentioned you should have added them before splitting the body. You can slide the bug back to before the split in the timeline, add the fillets then drag the bug forward again. But, you probably already knew that.

[@hypnolobster]

Good stuff. I always learn something from your Fusion demos.

[@broheim23]

Excellent video! Thanks for the in-depth explanations of exactly what you were doing in (I think) Fusion. I'm new to machining and appreciate the detail.

[@mrezafala]

What I usually do to fill the cavity on a part like that is revolving the cross-section of the part along it's center axis.

[@mchiodox69]

Very clean design....

[@chuirios365]

That's a great first time weld!

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

Hi James, A good build... Looking forward to seeing them in action... Take care Paul,,

[@braspatta]

Very good video as always.. And the welds look good!

[@barrythompson8813]

Very nicely done !!!

[@larrybud]

11:32, another way you can create a solid out of this is to first create a sketch on the plane which is looking at a side view of this, go to CREATE -> Project/Include -> Include 3d Geometry. Select the edges of the locline, then complete the profile down the side and through the center line, then revolve the profile. Took me about 20 seconds to do, and the side benefit is that you create a new body so you still have the original in your model. Also, after opening the STEP file, be sure to right click on the component and choose "Capture Design History". I believe that is off by default when opening a STEP. Also at 14:50 it probably would be beneficial to either create a plane at a known location of where you want the locline depth to end up, or at least turn on hidden edges or wireframe so you can see the position. Finally, at 17:30, don't forget, you're working with a timeline. You could have gone back before the split, added fillets to the single body, and your split will still be there when you're done.

[@markfletcher6511]

I found that your models were excellent. I am still working on my machine shop tools, but that is not stopping me from following your lead.

[@wesleyhjones1]

Greatly enjoyed video, as usual.

[@TrPrecisionMachining]

very very good..thanks for your time

[@mrstan3997]

Very nice walk thru on using Fusion 360. Thanks for sharing. BTW the welds look ok

[@deankq4adj125]

Brilliant! Just found your channel today. Love what you are doing. Instant subscriber!

[@davidtrump7598]

Thanks James for another fantastic video… your welding looks fine to me… greetings from Australia

[@GoCreateHobbyMachineShop]

Looks great! Very nicely executed. And your welding looks good to me.

[@Paul-pl4vy]

Great welding. Brilliant

[@WimsMill]

I installed my fog buster today and came back to this video to see the locline system. If you need to get the hoses off again, just use a hot air gun for about half a minute and then you can just pull them off. Thank you very much for making the parts available!

[@Clough42]

I tried that, but maybe I didn't use enough heat.

[@saltysoulcreations8537]

I really enjoy watching you with Fusion. Maybe to the more experienced user it is just common practice. For me it's like watching a dang magic show and you are the wizard, lol. Thank you for your videos

[@joehackenberg30]

Great video as always the 3d parts will come in handy for many so thank you for all that you do

[@toddcandee9836]

I just recently found your channel and have been watching many of your videos. Very informative. I have been using Fog Busters for a while now and have always been displeased with the factory magnetic mounts. I saw this video and started immediately making 3 sets of these. Had to design the gun end since the Grabcad design was removed. I printed them in Ultimaker CPE Black/White. I have found this filament to be very accurate after quite a bit of testing and 3D expansion adjustments in Cura. They came out great. Even put a Fog Buster logo in white on the gun. Still waiting on the rest to print. Thanks for the inspiration.

[@srmofoable]

To fill that loc line in i would have created a sketch through the center of the part, projected the body, and then revolved it around a center line

[@TheFeller1554]

Thanks for the video. I am running a single noga cool on my mill. I was thinking of going to the dual nozzle fog busters but as with your mill the mounting adjusting setup that is standard looked like a pain in the neck to use. Plus I hate using any type of magnet on my machines, as I work primarily in steel. this looks like a great solution, although I may try to make mine from aluminum or stainless. Thanks again for the excellent video!

[@BrilliantDesignOnline]

Welding not stellar, but a pretty good stab! Got my ELS kit! Thank you! You are an inspiration for your logical step by step, your organization and an excellent and honest communicator.

[@outsidescrewball]

enjoyed...nice upgrade....

[@sushantbolinjkar3477]

Very impressive. 👌🏼👌🏼

[@chriss1914]

That weld did not look bad, it looked plenty solid. The stack of coins look is purely cosmetic. Good job

[@kellybrown1860]

Great Video

[@briananichowski9139]

Nicely Done.

[@vincei4252]

Very nice!

[@chevyfahrer]

that 3D-Stuff is pure magic in my eyes

[@Clough42]

It's pretty awesome. If I had one of these when I was a kid I'd have fewer scars from misusing other tools. :)

[@buckhanan363]

20:32 "Relatively Easy" Kinda like trying to feed a snake while holding by the tail....

[@andyb7754]

Very interesting video. I've had a couple TIG welders for over 6 years and still haven't tried aluminum yet!! Great job of the welding for a first time welder, I couldn't tell you haven't welded.

[@Clough42]

I'm sure real welders would dispute this, but I think years of soldering has helped me to understand how the liquid metal will behave and some of that translates.

[@paulbyerlee2529]

As a boilermaker I can say those welds look very decent for your first welds in aluminium. Hell they are almost up to industry standard for a lot of jobs. 👍👍

[@705johnnyboy]

thats good weld mate

[@smudgemo]

I'm going to build this for my lathe/mill. The Noga knockoff is nowhere as easy to adjust and mostly blows toward me on the lathe. Thanks for creating a path to follow.

[@MakenModify]

Great video. At 12:00 I would do it like that: Make a sketch on a Plane on the rotational axis (XZ for example), go to Create > Project / Include > Intersect, Selection Filter: Body, klick the body, ok, complete the profile, revolve it around the center. Maybe not faster, but an other way ;) keep up the gread content 👍

[@hereticswissery9010]

good job

[@samvoelkel2046]

Excellent.

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

James, those welds look great....KZbin University is an awesome thing.

[@jeanphilippepoirier6130]

About filling the inside of the tool in Fusion 360, you can do it in the Solid environment. Create a sketch. Use the Project function to transfer the perimeter. Then Revolve the profile sketch making sure you use Operation: Join with the existing solid. BTW, 3D printing those links is possible. Plenty models on Thingiverse. Even the assembly tool! One downside; because of the staircase surface finish of the 3D print, it wears itself and won't give any longevity. Once 1 link doesn't hold, the whole thing is useless. Also, most 3D filaments are hygroscopic (tendency to absorb moisture), which would not be suitable to run any liquid directly. Good job and keep the up the great videos!

[@Clough42]

It all comes down to the tolerances your 3D printer can deliver and how much time you have to fiddle with it. Friction fits are tough. For most applications, buying the Loc-Line is worth the $10.

[@alistairfurnell126]

Top job and the welding I wish I could be that good only after 30min I still suck, Hamilton New Zealand

[@THEEblindman]

I’ve seen some very pretty welds that failed due to lack of penetration so as long as it works good job

[@l3d-3dmaker58]

looking nice! I've found your tip on chamfering bottom faces quite useful, but I've upgraded it! add a .25/.3 mm fillet instead of a chamfer, since it's harsher at the bottom where it counts and compensates less and less on subsequent layers, so walls look straight instead of dipping in on the second/third layer

[@Clough42]

Good tip. Thanks!

[@dwightcarlson7136]

You do amazing work and with no wasted words. Thanks for your generous sharing!👍👍 Is the coolant dangerous to breathe in?

[@dennispope8160]

To stop any chance of rotation at the 3D printed parts you could glue the loc line to one side of the 3D printed part, this will allow disassembly as well as ensure no rotation.

[@mrrrrr1rob590]

Great starter tig welds there. It takes a little bit to develop the muscle memory of the process, and I'm no expert. On the barb fittings -A little heat helps. I use a heat gun held at a careful distance. Heat just long enough until the hose is warm to the touch. Give it a little turn and then you can usually wiggle it off. We use this process at work on our CNC lathes on reinforced hydraulic drain hoses that have been permanently set stiff into shape with 10+ years of heat and oil exposure. Your solution was fine too, but there are times perhaps when your viewers might need to leave the length unaltered.

[@Clough42]

Thanks! My welds would be better if I didn't keep taking the tungsten for a swim in the puddle. I have trouble judging the arc length. I wonder if a clear cup would help, but I've been warned to learn to do it right before spending money on magic tools to try to make it easier.

[@ericbeckers2673]

Nice as always. Please tell us about the tig welder.

[@hansdietrich83]

I don't know if it's possible on a step file, but fusion can delete features. So my Idea would be to select the inner faces of the lock line and just hit delete. It might fill the hole

[@nathanlockman1554]

It is possible on a step file, which is really useful for modifying features like fillets and holes.

[@skidloaders1]

cool

[@airgunningyup]

your stuff looks soo factory it makes me sick to look at my machines,nice work as always

[@alanwood3597]

I made my fogbuster 3D prints to James' design in PLA. These have worked very well over the past year but the PLA around the front two clamping screws has now begun to crack and degrade making the ball clamping quite lose. My solution was to use two brass 'melt in' M3 inserts pairs to replace the PLA based holes and threads. The insert on the top side is drilled out with a clearance through hole and the clamping screw passes though this to pick up on the lower side insert. Seems to solve the problem without resorting to re-modelling and re-printing.

[@Clough42]

PLA is easy to print, but it it isn't necessarily the best choice for every application. Though it's also cheap, and it's easy to reprint, so it doesn't always matter.

[@JoeMalovich]

Fantastic video, the only thing missing was a quick demo of use, say a circular slot in a scrap of aluminum.

[@LetsJeep]

Blasphemy! If it isn't labeled Coca-Cola, now you'll never know what's in it! 😂

[@cadewey6181]

Try using a heat gun to remove the vinyl or tygon tubing. You still need to cut back the tube, but can avoid putting marks on the brass barbs.

[@davidkrikota4404]

Як завжди хороша робота.

[@gordonjones1516]

Machine that flush it'll look super pro.

[@nickb8530]

An aluminium tig welder is always preffered above aluminum tig welders.

[@MrRfries]

Looks like a nice setup! I'd like to try it on my mill , but I can't seem to find the Fog buster housing on Grab Cad. Perhaps it was taken down?

[@daviddenning4002]

What fluid do you plan on using in your fog buster?

[@zorbmogar4083]

Like the videos. I have the same mill and lathe. If you have one, I would like to know what size rotary table you have? I'm worried about tool clearances. I'm looking at purchasing a HV4 with chuck and dividing plates. While I have not taken measurements yet I do not know if I should step up in size to HV5 or HV6. Nice job on the ELS. I plan to price one out for myself, I'll have to back and review your videos for the servo and such.

[@DolezalPetr]

I have a question, how do you meassure the spindle load? I s there a way to connect a display to the vfd to show the current/ load or is there a way to show it directly on the vfd screen? How do you meassure spindle load?

[@MaximilianonMars]

I had no idea about grab CAD and cool companies uploading their STEP files, that's extremely helpful to know. It's good to see 3D printing has utility in a machinists shop. I've enjoyed it as a hobby for 3 years now, because of what I've learned I'm intending to learn machining. My only suggestion for a faster way to make that model solid in Fusion 360 would be to try to delete the internal features all at once. To be honest the way Fusion works is still a bit of a mystery to me, so I'd expect deleting features to work half the time only.

[@Know-Way]

Welds Look quite good! Wish my aluminum TIG welds were that good. Off topic but I just thought of something that related to one of your other videos. Re. your G0704 CNC conversion you said you sometimes miss having the manual hand wheels. I have the same mill and have been very seriously been considering a CNC conversion and have the same concern of loosing the manual hand wheels. I've seen some folks use dual shaft steppers and put the wheels on the unused shaft end; but then you get the unpowered-stepper feedback forces/drag. So, what's your opinion of adding something similar to the system you put on your lathe? Create a mount for handwheels for each axis and have the handwheels turn rotary encoders, in turn turning the steppers. Maybe some DPDT relays between the BOB and the stepper drivers to switch between CNC and manual. No tactile feedback, but manual control returned.

[@vitormhenrique]

Best way that I can get to fill out holes on fusion is selecting internal faces and deleting them... Usually pretty easy and very fast!

[@Clough42]

Thanks. I have used that trick before. I tried it on this part, and the results vary depending on the order of surfaces deleted. I didn't find anything that didn't destroy the outside geometry, but there may be a way.

[@calaban9]

@@Clough42 Could you have just creating a cylinder over it. Used the existing inner face to split the cylinder and then combine the inner part with your part?

[@rickmellor]

I would have turned that part to a solid body the same way you did.

[@kylebracht]

Hey James. Question about your earlier mist coolant setup. I have a similar model. I feel like a ball valve before the mister seems like a good idea. Let's me set the air pressure and lock the jamb nuts. Did you have anything similar? Or were you content adjusting the air with the needle valve every time?

[@squelchstuff]

Very interesting and informative as ever James. I wish my first weld looked so good :-) Out of interest, what made you decide against using a block with through hole to accept the Loc-line threaded element? It would have been so much simpler, or was it another case of "I can"? Great stuff anyway.

[@Clough42]

That was my original plan, but the NPT taps I have a pretty lousy, and I was afraid the threads would pivot in use.

[@TMCmakes]

@@Clough42 did you consider threadmilling NPT? but the printed solution is super easy and low risk for sure. when you were doing the model i was wondering what the CAM toolpaths for those blocks were going to look like and how long all that 3d toolpathing was going to take on the mill. then you sent them to the printer and i realized i was over-complicating it!

[@ratherrelatablemantisshrim2409]

what screws are used for the assembly of the fog buster clamshell?

[@MrDaniell1234]

13 mins patch both holes - Boundry fill select all parts as the tool, right to left drag to select all for the cells, set operation to new body or whatever, remove tools, ok done

[@billstrahan4791]

On your fusion stuff on the loc-line making it a solid...what would you think of a midplane sketch, project the body, throw in a centerline and revolve it?

[@Clough42]

Yes, that also works. Depending on exactly how the body got imported, getting a good center line and actually centered plane can be easy or hard.

[@billstrahan4791]

@@Clough42 On a good day, I learn something new! As always, keep machining and keep lifting weights! :) Take care.

[@bncesper]

How much airflow do you need for two nozzles? What's your air compressor setup like?

[@Clough42]

I have a 2HP California Air Tools compressor. Word on the street is that the 1HP is sufficient for a Tormach power drawbar and a single nozzle Fogbuster, so the 2HP should be sufficient for my smaller drawbar and a dual-nozzle setup. The 1HP is rated 2.2SCFM@90, and the 2HP is 5.3SCFM@90. Time will tell how well it works.

[@Jimmitime]

What about the first tests?

[@nicolasaudouard8956]

What kind of compressor do you have?

[@kermitfrog1897]

I was excited about the mist cooling idea until I learned about the health risks. Too bad, as it has a lot of advantages over conventional flood cooling.

[@joels4208]

Great video... Thanks. Just curious if you have found a favorite coolant/lubricant for the Fogbuster? I see lots of folks using Kool Mist 77 and DuraKut 900B. Any thoughts?

[@Clough42]

I run Sta-Lube soluble oil. I tried Kool Mist and personally didn't like it. It was pretty squeaky on aluminum with the YG-1 end mills I was running at the time.

[@joels4208]

@@Clough42 Thanks!

[@bluedeath996]

I would have chamfered or radiused the fogbuster holding ends, because I don't like touching sharp edges if I can avoid it, but otherwise it looks good.

[@Clough42]

Ahh..yeah. That would have been a good idea. Hmm...my 3D printer isn't doing anything at the moment...

[@richardcurtis556]

In re: your TIG weld. Does it hold the parts rigid? Is it presentable given its location when installed? If so, OK!

[@Clough42]

Yup. It gets the job done.

[@bradfitz999]

One way to make that solid is to project it to a sketch and then rotate on the centre axis.

[@Clough42]

Thanks. I tried that and it works okay if you have a good reference for the center.

[@chrismolloy131]

Any reason to not just file open the step file?

[@woodworks5009]

couldent you just create a revole sketch on the inside perimeter and revolve that 360 degrees. then merging the 2 body's?

[@jawad_bli191]

How much is a spindle?

[@patwicker1358]

Do you remember what wall thickness and per cent fill you used on those parts you 3d printed?

[@Clough42]

These are printed with a .4mm nozzle, three perimeters, 30% infill, .25mm layer height.

[@patwicker1358]

@@Clough42 Thank you

[@TheSkipinatorVids]

A little grinding and no one will ever know true level of welding skill. Of course that cat's out of the bag already...

[@Clough42]

Grinder and paint...

[@CryoftheProphet]

dude what kind of mill is that?

[@Clough42]

It began life as a Grizzly G0704.

[@richardsweet5068]

The lady in the thumbnail lives on the wall in my lounge, Does anyone know who she is and who did the painting ?

[@kylebracht]

Could you run a plane through the center of the model, delete half of it, then split it again and revolve it around its own center? Sorry for poor terminology

[@stevehobson3681]

I was told 'if you can't pick it off with a screwdriver - its welded'