Ford 4.0L Timing Chain Replacement, Cloyes 9-0398SB

[@Slonya23]

Thank you Ford for making one of your most popular engines timing components so hard to service.

[@PiggyWiggyHunter]

This is the best informative video I've seen in ages .

[@Jigar-kamboh]

Hi

[@BB-hi5of]

My rear timing chain is rattling a lot lately. Was debating on replacing the motor but i will probably go ahead with the fix you demonstrated here! Thanks alot ! will be playing this video a few times

[@1TexasDallas]

You guys are awesome! Thank you so very much for making this video!! I bought your product because of it. Keep up the good work.

[@Cj2a46]

*******Things I learned during my 4.0 SOHC timing chain replacement: 1:use a longer crank bolt to help get the balancer off. 2: installing the bank 2 chain guide is tough, requires force and may break the guide if not careful (the segment that this video skips). 3: I had the cylinder heads off to do head gaskets, had both front and rear chains off at the same time- torquing the jackshaft bolts is possible without the rear jackshaft sprocket holding tool- Use the cam sprocket holding tool and the tensioner tool on bank 2 to hold the timing chain and torque the front jackshaft bolt, then put a bolt into the bank 1 cylinder head and prop the breaker bar against it while you torque the rear jackshaft bolt.------- then set bank 2 timing with special tools and then set bank 1 timing. 4: the timing cover has to be centered on the crank otherwise the front seal will leak badly. I used a micrometer and positioned it best i could and tightened down the cover, and re-checked it. 5: the front crank seal should be pressed in with the plastic crank seal dust shield so the plastic shield is flush with the cover. 6: If you pull out the injectors and the insert in the cylinder head comes out with it, replace it. (ford calls these injector seal adapters) they press into the cylinder head and are hard to get out without valve removal. These were the issues i came across during the challenge, and are solutions that i used with success. Hope this helps someone before they dig too deep of a hole.

[@sigguy1361]

Great instructional video. Was bummed when you said "remove the engine." Dang. A little more than I anticipated.

[@nike1337ib]

Sig Guy same here since it's for my work truck.

[@sigguy1361]

Esdras Ibarra I'm going to try changing out the tensioners first. I ordered them from Ford (could get them cheaper, but I wanted quality with this particular part) and will see if that fixes the issues I'm hearing.

[@sigguy1361]

GoTrump - So I swapped out tensioners this last week. I went with genuine Ford parts, not just the ones from Napa, in a rare move to have the best quality part for that particularly important part of the engine. They were kind of a B to get out, but I got them swapped, and it's much quieter now. I also saw I was low on oil (since you have to drain all the oil to do this process anyway) and I think that contributed to the rattle. At any rate, the chain rattle is greatly reduced, and I think we are in good shape. now if I could just figure out where I have a tiny leak in the coolant system that causes that noxious burning coolant steam from under the hood. Arghh..

[@jerryjamify]

That's what I call a professional, informative video. Thank you for posting....

[@MrPami9899]

great video, finally find a video that explain the step by step procedure, not too bad of a job, taking the engine out is pain, lol

[@dstock100]

souldnt be that hard tho

[@BrianSmith-lo3mj]

Finally! Someone actually posted a How-To video on this procedure. I've been looking for years to find a complete instructional video like this and this is the first one. I have a 2004 Ranger with this engine and it makes the horrible rattle sound on start up. It's a 2WD, so how likely is the noise just coming from the front? I just hate the idea of pulling the whole engine and replacing everything.

[@Cloyes01]

Brian, thanks for the kind words on the video. It is difficult to say, but being a startup rattle, it is more than likely an issue with the hydraulic tensioners. In the early 4.0L SOHC engines it was more likely to come from the rear bank because of a lack of oil to the tensioner. This was addressed by Ford with the addition of the oil restrictor rod that is shown in the video. Engines with the restrictor rod installed have about a 50/50 chance of noise coming from either bank. All that said, if you've got a startup rattle, you may want to replace the hydraulic tensioners. If the rattle is only heard at startup then you are getting oil to the tensioners, but one of them isn't staying primed up over a period of time.

[@BrianSmith-lo3mj]

You're very welcome, I actually just got done pulling the engine and replacing the rear plastic tensioner.(It was shattered into 50 different pieces) I replaced the 27mm tensioners 6 months ago and it didn't do a thing for the rattle noise. It was one hell of a job, and it took me 10 days. I had to pay the transmission shop over $250 to re-install the transmission because I couldn't do that part myself. I get there to pick up my beautiful red Ranger and start the engine and I heard the rattle coming from the front this time. I was just devastated. It's like the front tensioner broke right after I fixed the one in the back. I can't believe I done all that work, and now the noise is louder. I guess I just have to take my beating and fix the front now. I'm really thinking about lifting the body off of the frame this time and converting it to a 4-wheel drive.UPDATE: I took my beating and tore down the whole front part of the engine and after I removed the front timing chain cover I noticed that the primary tensioner on the passenger side (the one with the 7 metal leaves in it) was busted into four different pieces and it was laying down in the oil pan. I also replaced the primary guide on the driver's side. I'll give another update when I put the engine all back together and start it up. I really hope this fixes the rattle.

[@hansgruper872]

Brian Smith You can't. The engine is a 4x2 which means there is no balance shaft. If u converted it to a 4x4 without a balance shaft, that engine would rumble like crazy.

[@BrianSmith-lo3mj]

LOL ... I hope you were kidding. That balance shaft on a 4X4 4.0 is useless. I bet you can put 2WD 4.0 SOHC engines in 4X4 trucks all day long and not notice a difference between the two.

[@hansgruper872]

Brian Smith Not kidding. Build a 4.0 without it. It's there for a reason. The weights on the crank can't absorb all the vibrations. You'd be surprised how much it helps.

[@joeh2277]

Excellent video if I did it correctly, I suggest adding the two torque to yield Jack shaft bolts to your kit.

[@Roscotech]

Ok I have no complaints about the video, however! I suggest checking the thickness of the crank gears with a mike. As the video states there are two different versions of this set up. With and without a counter balance chain. A tech at our shop used what was supposed to be the kit without a counter balance gear. I believe the crank gears were too thin because when the engine was put back in it would not start. We spent well over a week checking everything over and over again to find that the balancer (when seated) went in almost 3/8 of an inch farther than it did with the OE gears. This engine had the balancer with the thin steel exciter ring for the crank position sensor. On the exciter ring there is a double gapped tooth that is used both for locating the locking tool to set the cam timing but also to let the PCM know where TDC is so that it can start the firing order. If you look at the double tooth on the thin steel exciter ring you will see that the double gap is there only to just before the outer edge of the ring. At that point the double gap is bridged to keep the integrity of the ring. With the thinner gears the balancer went back far enough that the crank sensor was seeing the bridge instead of the double gapped tooth. The engine would not start because the PCM never saw the double gap and therefore did not know when to start the firing order.

[@paulpetty7509]

Good to see some sharing good information as the guy in the video doesn't clarify this.

[@robynsecor9042]

Great trouble shooting by your team. Does Cloyes employ engineers or QC on their staff? 3/8" is a HUGE difference!!!!

[@1Cobranut]

Thanks. Very nice video. Much more straightforward than the Ford Workshop manual, which says to remove the cylinder heads to do this job? I guess they just want to sell more gaskets and torque to yield head bolts. SMH

[@robynsecor9042]

Excellent video. The technician is well versed and competent.

[@ibretus]

The balance shaft was not aligned correctly that motor will have a good vibration . There are 2 shafts in the balance unit that need to be aligned not just the drive sprocket

[@jwoodby1]

Very helpful video! I purchased TTY jackshaft bolts from Ford dealership. Front bolt part #2L2Z-6279-AA rear bolt part# W703167-S430

[@Cloyes01]

Thanks for posting!

[@edbmw13]

I ordered a rear JS bolt from Ford in Humble TX with no luck (varios times) finally went to Mac Haik Ford on I-10 got it.

[@33mustard]

Good video. Just installed the cloyes timing kit in my 4.0. I wish it came with the torque to yeild bolts for the ends of the jackshaft. Got the kit home and opened the box, then had to Chase those down separately.

[@xtra3975]

Where were you able to find the TTY bolts? Im trying to avoid having to go to Ford if I can help it. Cheers

[@bradharper9282]

Great informative video. My explorer is young (84,000 miles) and has developed a horrible sound from previous owners abuse. No damage on chains or sprockets, but those horrible guides are destroyed. Easy fix! (Thank God the back chain makes no noise, can't pull the engine on your only car and still make it to work :P)

[@manuelseniceros9550]

So did you get away with just doing one chain because I can't afford to pull the motor it only sounds like the one in the front of my 2003 ranger is giving me issues

[@nofortunatesonII]

@@manuelseniceros9550 Have you checked the hydraulic tensioner?

[@martystevens8357]

Thank you for the reply! I agree. Maybe include that on future videos so others won't think it's a good idea when they work on engines. A leak-down test can check for bent valves. Remove the timing chain for 1 side of the cam and get it at TDC and with both valves closed. Then if the valve leaks you'll know before putting the engine back in. You can do the test before replacing the chain with new parts.

[@Jmen-og8iv]

Thank you for this video! It’s about to save me a lot of time and probably an engine!

[@eulasdubois3181]

Very thankful of the video. It helped alot. I would edit the balancer selection of this video by putting some time of instruction on the video to aline the balancer shaft and hole under the balancer shaft. Thanks a ton

[@nike1337ib]

great video! very helpful will be purchasing the kit from you guy's when i do mine

[@stuartloggins3691]

After watching you do it i don't understand why anyone would be afraid to do it themselves.

[@ronaldtober9443]

nice video, did my 2004 mercury mountaineer a year ago and used cloyes complete kit with balance shaft, also got the tools for the job , it went smooth as well as redid heads wish i had this video then for a reference but oh well. You do need to pull the engine .

[@jtmartin8445]

around what millage does it need to be replaced ?

[@ronaldtober9443]

Did mine at 207,000 the balance shaft chain was the worst one , the chain was hitting the cradle and real loud. but the rest were a little loose , but now as quiet as ever .. happy happy

[@jtmartin8445]

was it making a grinding noise because the one we have is a 2002 and has over 220,000 on it ind it's making like a grinding/taping noise

[@AllanDee]

Hey Ron. Quick question for you since you pulled the heads. Do you know what special process and tools he's talking about in the video required to remove and reinstall the camshaft roller followers? Thanks!

[@mariagiron3970]

Ronald Tober hey do you have to. set the. timeingchain if the chainjump. timeing.

[@georgestephens5078]

Good instruction vidieo I am wondering why you guys dont' give replacenent bolts for the tourque to yield bolts with the full timing kit ? or did I get shorted?

[@2koolchris291]

Dang. That’s a huge job. Well if it doesn’t get done the old Ford Explorer will become the old exploder. Such fun.

[@Mabentuna]

This is the most informative video on this engine . Awesome job! Wish I seen it years ago. Lol

[@leejohnson9338]

Great instructional video! I really appreciate you guys that take the time to give us tech's time saving information that helps maximize profitability! Lee

[@gused82]

I'm ready to start redoing this project again, I did it and it failed one of the tensioner guide broke right when I started the engine , I put it on my garage for 2 almost 3 years on hold , now I'm about to start redoing it again, I couldn't get a ford mechanic to come and do it , no one wants to mess with this engine, I even brought a retired old ford mechanic that knew about this issues before even production started, he was sent 1 of the 6 prototype engines back in the early 90s for possible production, and showed me the records, Mr Lee the mechanic told me that this is one of the most hated and underperformed engines from ford that was design to produce more money in parts due to the design, he recommended not to use it bc all this timing issues but ford decided to start producing even with the negative feedback from their own master fordexclusive mechanics. I found that my tensioner were not loaded and needed to be preloaded with oil manually, the slack of them without oil causes the chain to slap against the fragile guides and brake, the preloading must be manual, the engine wont load them with a few spins, the amount of pressure on them need to be higher... I spoke to cody about this issue before , and since my wife is happy driving a mercedes there was no need to repair this 15kusd 08 explorer with 99k miles or junk until now that will probably sell or crash or something ...lol

[@northdakotaham1752]

I would trash that engine and find a good used one from the boneyard, install it then sell the vehicle. Been driving Fords for over 50 years and after watching this video would never consider buying a vehicle with one of these engines.

[@gused82]

@@northdakotaham1752 I'm about to install the engine , I'm confident enough that this time it will work, aleast to sale it and to get the mercedes my wife deserves , instead of this explorer ....

[@northdakotaham1752]

@@gused82 I like the Explorer and have two of them but both with V8 engines. Where I live all wheel or 4 wheel drive is a must. Good luck on your project!

[@sharpcarco]

This is the spectacular video!!

[@maxpaul11]

Missing a lot of technical points bro!

[@santaclause2875]

Great video, thanks for posting! But still, I don't understand why Ford didn't just use the tried-and-true push rod valve train on this engine. What advantages did they think would be had with this overly-complicated valve train?? It's still only two valves per cylinder, that's easily had with a single camshaft down the center of the block, and conventional push rod operated, a bullet-proof system that worked for 100 years.

[@primitiveassembly199]

it’s german

[@noconsentgiven]

Thats why they changed because it was bullet-proof and long-lasting. Planned obsolescence can't have things lasting too long, smh😑. Ford warned about this crap and what would happen to engineering standards.

[@cassconner6023]

This repair is above my pay-grade :-)

[@classicstangbrn8964]

This is the best video I've seen on a truly poorly designed system. I have never been able to remove the ds chain cassette up out of the head or install through the top, what I'm I doing wrong?

[@hectorortega9131]

You need a bigger hammer

[@dennisluttrell2228]

Great video on a 2004 4.0 for excellent excellent excellent thank you very much

[@brianpinzon2109]

There's a problem within this video as you get towards the end on time of scene at 10:30. You can see the original tensioner in place and not the tool tensioner. The when you see the tool tensioner back on scene time 10:44 as if he's just taking it off. This part is very misleading.

[@paulstandaert5709]

It looks like I just had a front secondary timing chain break at about 3 months and 3,000 miles. I have to tear it down to see what the case is. If it appears to be plenty wet with oil, this will be the last Cloyes timing kit that I will buy. There was also some fitment issues with the primary chain guide that requires some Macgyvering to deal with. I did talk to someone at their customer support about it, and never got a good answer other than, "it must be defective." Well, mass produced injection molded stuff doesn't have this kind of defect, so just getting a replacement would have had the same problem.

[@paulstandaert5709]

I verified that I, indeed, have a broken secondary chain on the left cylinder bank. When the chain broke, it jammed up the jackshaft sprocket, causing the primary chain sprocket to slip and go out of time, resulting in the left bank of cylinders mashing up the exhaust valves. Yes, I used a new jackshaft bolt and torqued it according to Ford. And it took plenty of force to remove the bolt. I have no idea why the chain broke. I have a bunch of pictures here: www.dropbox.com/sh/onj1yl2sx6epx68/AADesXSm8BXlvtXDj5q1m_L-a?dl=0 So far, there have been four issues with the Cloyes products during this process: 1.) When the left bank secondary timing chain cassette arrived from Rock Auto, the plastic guide was broken. Broken how, why, I do not know. It didn't look like it could have been broken in shipping with how it was packaged. Who knows? 2.) The primary chain guide did not fit--the mounting bosses and oil galley plug are of equal height. The guide didn't fit because in order for it to fit, the oil galley had to be recessed in. I used washers to space it away from the mounting hole. I think that worked fine. 3.) The primary chain tensioner went kiddy wumpus as shown in one of the pics in the link above. The roll pin worked its way out a bit causing the plastic wear surface to not be parallel with the chain. 4.) The secondary chain broke. I have no idea why. Bad tensioner? Just look at the broken chain links. There are broken links in 3 different places on the chain. Strange. I really think that I somehow got a defective chain. It was wet with oil, the parallel alignment of the sprockets is perfect... as far as I can tell, the tensioner was functioning as it should. My cylinder head rebuilder says that although he hasn't done a lot of these heads due to the economics of repairing these engines, he has never had someone call him and ask why a timing chain broke on one of them.

[@FT4Freedom]

Cloyes has failed on many occasions.

[@macsavers]

I installed your timing chain kit on my 2006 Mustang V6. It was working great. While at a stop light it died on me while idling and I could not get it to restart. It cranked just fine. I confirmed spark, fuel and working injectors, so I took off the valve covers and the passenger side is too far ahead and the drivers side is too far behind. Any idea why that would be? The timing chains seem tight and in good shape.

[@danielclark5170]

That has to be the dumbest timing chain design ever.

[@nofortunatesonII]

The 427 SOHC probably runs a close second place to the 4.0 SOHC.

[@mikepier1]

Wow, very involved work. My 99 just started making a light rattling noise a few weeks, and sure enough when dropped the oil pan today, I found 2 broken plastic pieces of what looked like the guide. I am the original owner, my truck has 155K miles. I took care of it religiously, but now I must anticipate that the rest of the assembly and engine will fail, and at that point, I might kiss it goodbye. Not worth it for me anyway to pull this engine and repair it. The truck is 18 years old.

[@javiscancino]

Great vdo, thks, just one question, when you say, for example, torque to 35psi plus 90 degrees, that means, when you reach the 35psi you still turn 90 degrees more?

[@Cloyes01]

Exactly, you will torque the bolt to 35 lb/ft then turn the bolt an additional 90 degrees (1/4 of a turn.)

[@javiscancino]

10,4 Thks. @@Cloyes01

[@vr4787]

Woof, and I thought the 4.7 Magnum from Chrysler of the same era was a bit tricky. This is a paint in the rear, much less having to pull the block out to get the rear timing chain.

[@clarenceoosterhoff7199]

Just wondering why Cloyes doesn't include the 2 bolts that must be replaced in an otherwise complete kit?

[@Cloyes01]

Those bolts, with proper torque-to-yield functionality, do not exist in the aftermarket. At this time Cloyes would be purchasing OE bolts and selling them at a markup to include them in the kit. For now customers can save money and purchase them separately, or reuse (not recommended.) We are currently working with a bolt manufacturer to produce proper aftermarket replacements. Hopefully they will be available soon.

[@joshdude2137]

you know... i did subscribe. good video, likeable tech. yall have it goin on cloyes. good job

[@MrManicola]

very good video and i now know that I cannot do this

[@ROBBEAUDOIN66]

Just bought a 09 ranger with the 4.0 ....I like it

[@jbarajas909]

My mustang has 223k and still running. If you don’t want to deal with it then do your oil changes on time

[@jbarajas909]

Call 1800 junkyard and shush

[@nessiedestiny8252]

Timing chain has nothing to do with oil change lol

[@jbarajas909]

How you think chains get lubricated? Run shitty/dirty oil and plastic guides will wear out faster. Then chain will get loose

[@ronaldbrown9638]

Or buy Chevy your call

[@ronaldbrown9638]

@@nessiedestiny8252 wow really how do you think the timing chain gets lubricated

[@steveharvey7712]

outstanding work. ez to follow instructions.

[@martystevens8357]

Wouldn't it be a good idea to put RTV on the tensioner threads and other fasteners contacting oil?

[@Cloyes01]

No, the tensioners have gasket rings that seal the oil. Do not use silicone/RTV on any threads, and especially on the hydraulic tensioners. Silicone/RTV can clog vital oil passages.

[@peanutbutterisfu]

Looks like a German/euro design. I’m a foreman at a euro repair shop and this looks like something you would see in a Audi/vw engine.

[@Cloyes01]

It was made in Cologne Germany. The reason for the complexity is that it is simply the older 4.0L pushrod block with SOHC heads retrofitted on.

[@ronaldbrown9638]

@@Cloyes01 it's still a poor design

[@duanerawlins1903]

made in cologne, Germany

[@SrColon309]

Wow!! The best video! Thank you for video and time.

[@gustavnauer2153]

Good job and really easy if you watch this video thanks

[@yolandapadilla8239]

nice video hey one question the rear chain don`t have timing marks does it?

[@johnfloyd2551]

For all this trouble.. May as well do a complete rebuild... Why is the the right timing chain on the rear? Because ford didnt wanna make left and right 4.0 ohc heads...

[@paulstandaert2042]

John Floyd That is what I thought. But if the 2 head castings were in fact the same, the left and right head gaskets would be the same but they are not. The differences are actually significant.

[@almostsk8terjamie]

Ford took the OHV block and made it SOHC. I agree with you, wish they would have kept everything on the front.

[@robynsecor9042]

Floyd, The heads are different castings. As you can see, there is no hole drilled for the hydraulic tensioner on the right bank cylinder head. The chain is in the rear because the engine block is offset side to side. To have the chain in the front, would have made the engine several inches longer and you would need a front cover all the way to the bottom of the right cylinder head.

[@ronaldjohnson3961]

I, changed my timing chain with a pipe wrench, and a cresent wrench in,3 hours you don't need all those expensive tools they are talking about,they just want you to spend uneesarry money, I took mine too Bird culgen Ford in Waco Texas to show to show them, I didn't need the expensive tools they were trying to sell me,why can't they be honest

[@hectorortega9131]

This is harder than deactivating a ticking bomb.

[@connoreurich1465]

A V8 drop seems much more time efficient.

[@boboynunez5805]

Do you have a video if the same engine jumped time how do you adjust the camshafts? When putting it back together?

[@Cloyes01]

You will still follow the same procedures, but you will need to get the camshafts realigned first. Try to rotate the crankshaft to a position where all 3 pistons are down on one bank. Then rotate and position the camshaft on that bank using the tool from the tool kit. You will then repeat on the other side. Once both camshafts are properly positioned you can move your crank to the correct position and install your crank holding tool.

[@terrypaquette2824]

Does the limited lifetime warranty cover catastrophic engine failure for a failed timing component? ASE mechanic and am looking at doing this job on my own vehicle, cloyes kit is very nice but i would like to be sure of the warranty before i purchase one

[@Cloyes01]

Your warranty is cover by the vendor that you purchase the components from. Most major parts stores offer the lifetime warranty along with labor claim programs that will help pay for damages if the parts are found to be at fault. Check with your vendor to see what kind of coverage they offer and if you would qualify to file a labor claim if necessary.

[@Gfaze]

Hello I just recently had a shop install this exact kit into my 2004 Ford explorer 4.0 4x4. After the install I still hear a mild "chatter" coming from the front driver side of the engine. Is it possible the front cassette is defective or installed improperly? The tech said his wife's explorer has always made the same type of sound since it was new. Is the chatter noise something I should expect or is there something wrong?

[@Gfaze]

Well since I got no response, I did my own homework and figured I'd provide an answer in case anybody else has the same problem. After speaking with the tech that did the install, installer error was not the problem. I pulled the hydraulic timing tensioner from the left bank and discovered that the Cloyes hydraulic tensioner was defective. The tensioner is supposed stiffen up once primed with oil. No matter how much I tried, the tensioner wouldn't prime. I still had the old tensioner I had purchased from Ford over a year ago and that one was very easy to prime. I installed it and voila! No more rattling/chattering!!! You can't assume new parts aren't defective. I hope this helps somebody else in the future.

[@robynsecor9042]

This reply helps people in the future if they think of buying parts from Cloyes.

[@FT4Freedom]

Yes. Tensioners should be pre primed before installing to ensure hydraulic seals. This is very important. See yt for pre priming tensioner.

[@jerryjamify]

I did my timing but the top chain guid on the left broke, I dont think it was getting oil. Do you know why these engines would be running dry at the timing chain? I'm taking it apart now to see what all happed.

[@WilliamBush1967]

The rear jack shaft bearing may have spun on the engine causing loss of oil

[@socram321]

Very common problem for these engines.

[@jerryjamify]

I'm doing mine, could you tell me the size of the torx bolt on the large sprocket

[@BrianSmith-lo3mj]

I think that one thing that should be noted here and was not in the video is that the two piece front guide assembly seems that it has got to be taken apart to get it down through the head and reassembled once it's down in the engine but it really doesn't have to be, there's certain way it has to be tilted and there's only one way it can be removed. I practiced on a 2005 spare Explorer engine and finally figured it out.

[@hansgruper872]

Brian Smith In the second gen explorers (like this one) it was not necessary to do that. In 2002 they moved the head making it extremely difficult to install the front cassette with the head on, thus having to break it into 2 pieces.

[@BrianSmith-lo3mj]

Thanks for the info ... I wish he would have used a 2002 + 4.0 SOHC in the video. I also noticed that on the 2005 and 2006 harmonic balancers they don't have the grooves for the special crankshaft holding tool to go in and it seems like the aftermarket ones that you buy at the parts stores don't either. It looks like they just added on a cheap speed sensor ring. So, you would actually need an older or newer harmonic balancer with the special tool kit to work on a 05 and 06 engine.

[@TCS86]

You forgot to check the gear under the balance shaft for proper timing alignment

[@alpha2gproject783]

Honestly seems like a straight forward process. Just time consuming really. Definitely got my spirits up. Plan on doing this to an 01 Ranger and can't even find a good used motor for less than 900 bucks and a complete rebuild is over 1,800. Even if I screw it up...not really out much since the guides will fail eventually. Is this kit on par with the Ford fix reflected in 04+ Rangers and Explorers?

[@Cloyes01]

Yes, the kits we offer for the 4.0L Ford SOHC engines contain the latest designed parts for that engine. The components will be direct replacements for the later model 4.0L's, and the complete kits will also retrofit the earlier model engines to the later style arrangement.

[@thebaddestogre-3698]

So, timing chain issues on this engine secretly means "time for a 5.0 swap".

[@Z-Ack]

Yea and when you blow thatn up your 4.0 sohcpos is there to change the timing..

[@northdakotaham1752]

@@Z-Ack get rid of the vehicle and go buy a 5.0 vehicle. If you can find one that is.

[@russianwolf6561]

What tools are all needed for this? Socket sizes,torque bits etc etc

[@hotfuss11]

Hello! Patrick Cox founder of TaxMasters

[@Cattlerest]

Anyone ever try and just make the chains shorter take some links out seems like slack in the chain should be an easy fix. Cloyes ? Nice video Thanks for posting it

[@jhonj9552]

well done bro. thank you

[@benzo9568]

wow nice work i am appreciate alot job well done

[@tcply9450]

ford, like the rest took the extra time to make sure we dont fix our own, they want you to buy them but then they are secretly waiting to roll you when you need some work. in the past 35 years ive seen the simplest of jobs turn to major work , and not because of the technology but because of all the built in problems they add on purpose, i do a lot of repair and rebuild and nearly all have trouble built in.

[@maxunderhill7336]

awesome video

[@Jili_Stang]

Do you have to take off the harmonic balancer to take off the timing cover and then reinstall it so you can put the tool on?

[@Cloyes01]

Yes, that is correct.

[@FORDBOYSJ]

Good, where I look and every few kilometers I must make the change of chains thanks.

[@celica02perronfurioso21]

Thanks for the video 👍🏾👌

[@ibretus]

The Balance shaft was not aligned correctly, you need to align the dot with the bearing split on the lower shaft then align the 2 lines either side of the dot on the case.

[@dylankinch2735]

Yes sir you are correct. I couldnt tell if it was align correct or not it was hard to see underneath there.

[@JohnMyers]

Great video

[@armandovelazquez8383]

Could you please let me know where can I buy the cam and crank holding shaft special tools, thank you much

[@aaliyahjackson66]

Amazon actually sells some

[@oby-1607]

Holy. 4 chains with 4 tensioners. Talk about overcomplicating matters. Won't see me doing this. My neighbor wanted to give me his 4.0 after he blew up his transmission. I don't think so.

[@kirkwest6654]

Leave it ford to fk it up

[@joegregory6948]

Help What do I need to do if one side of my cam is little off and my tole will not lay flat on head It’s up about 1/2” on one side when stubs are in slots

[@kellybriton-jones8016]

Engine jumped time?

[@Cloyes01]

It really depends on where you are at in the process. But either way you will likely need to loosen the camshaft sprocket bolt and rotate the camshaft to the proper position to install the tool, then tighten.

[@rjsquirrell2035]

Love your videos, quick and to the point. Watched this one to see if you use some sort of fixture to support the jackshaft sprocket to torque the bolt, seems like a lot of force to put on those upper chains, is that the recommended procedure? Also I welded up my own fixtures to hold the cams out of some angle and flat stock, was pretty easy.

[@Cloyes01]

It would be ideal if you could lock the jackshaft in place while torqueing the bolts, but we are not aware of any tools that exist to do so.

[@nofortunatesonII]

Do these kits include any bolts that are TTY?

[@Cloyes01]

No, they do not come with the bolts.

[@nofortunatesonII]

@@Cloyes01 Dealer only for the bolts?

[@Cloyes01]

@@nofortunatesonII That would be our recommendation. There may be some aftermarket options that we are not aware of, but I would be skeptical of their quality.

[@nofortunatesonII]

@@Cloyes01 Thank-you.

[@leonardojaramillo4740]

Felicitaciones, desde Caracas Venezuela..

[@kirkwonner2660]

Having trouble getting the driver side cassette in. You skip over this but you do it with the cam installed. Am I missing a trick because according to procedure you’re supposed to remove the cam

[@AnaRamirez-bx3nc]

exelente video you last explicacion muy Clara gracias

[@paulstandaert5709]

I will welcome it if Cloyes would like to chime in here. I will also welcome it if they at least help foot the engine repair bill that their product caused. The way I *think* it works is that Cloyes is actually the original equipment manufacturer of the sprockets and possibly the chain. The sprockets had Ford part numbers stamped right into them and the look and feel strike me as being a quality part. However, I think the guides are just sourced from wherever. Probably China as usual. I bought the Cloyes cassette assembly for the left cylinder bank, 1x cassette assembly for the right bank, and 1x primary timing chain kit. Problem #1: The left bank kit arrived broken from Rock Auto. The plastic guide was broken where it clipped onto the metal guide chassis. I returned it and got another. Nobody can really prove where/how that got broken, but no matter. Problem #2: The plastic primary chain guide is supposed to cover up an oil galley hole, and probably allow leakage that'll result in oil spraying all over the primary chain area for lubrication as I would expect. If you run a straight edge on the engine block from one mounting point across the oil galley to the other mounting point, the surfaces are all identical height. However, where the plastic guide would cover up that oil galley, it is about .020" greater there, meaning that to install the guide, it would tweak the plastic guide and possibly cover up the oil galley hole too tightly and actually create a good seal there, which you do not want. I was able to space it out at the mounting points with washers to compensate. Problem #3: After about 3,500 miles and 3 months (after I tore it apart due to the left bank chain snapping), the tension pin that keeps the primary chain tensioner arm worked its way out, and caused the plastic tensioner to be crooked. It did not result in a problem--at least not yet. I am confident that it would have, though. Problem #4 The left bank timing chain snapped in about 3 months/3,500 miles. This is another area where finger pointing is quick to happen. My analysis of the situation revealed that although the chassis for the chain guide (not the tensioner arm side--I am talking about the tension side of the chain) was straight, the plastic mounted on it had a curve, bowing away from the engine block in the middle. Like the originals, the wear surface of the plastic had a small ridge on the side closest to the engine block that is probably there to keep the chain away from the metal chassis. Well, with this entire piece of plastic having a subtle curve to it and thus and not matching the chassis, it was able to push the chain out of alignment as it ran from the cam gear down to the jackshaft sprocket, leaving it up to the jackshaft sprocket to re-align the chain. The jackshaft sprocket showed significant wear on one edge of teeth all around it, and the chain's outermost links also had wear marks on just one side which corresponded with the teeth. The wear marks on the plastic show the chain following the curve of the plastic, and right as the chain neared the jackshaft sprocket, the wear marks make a notable turn back into proper alignment, as undoubtedly the jackshaft sprocket was doing that. Running my straight edge in every possible way from the cam sprocket to the jackshaft sprocket revealed that the two sprockets were in *perfect* alignment. If they were not aligned, it was within a few thousandths of an inch, which would be about what amount of end play there would be in the jackshaft. And if the sprockets were not aligned, the wear marks would be on both the cam sprocket AND the jackshaft sprocket and would also have wear on both sides of the chain. Problem #5. I bought a replacement engine after the first one I fixed up lunched its valves due to the Cloyes chain failure. Those 13x,xxx mile guides in the replacement engine had significantly less wear than the newer ones provided by Cloyes with 3,500 miles on them. Some of the plastics were labeled PA46, some PA66, and maybe even one other in the mix somewhere. Well, those standardized plastic resins aren't necessarily the same. China will find a shortcut. There are reasonable possibilities that problems #5 and #1 were not the fault of Cloyes, but #2, #3, and #4 are definitely all done by their own doing--probably sourcing the guides from some cheap-o manufacturer and these problems were a big deal. I am not going to ever buy timing components from Cloyes ever again. If they reimburse me for time and parts to fix the mess that these parts caused, I'll consider it, but I doubt that they are going to send me a check for $1,500 plus a refund on their timing components. That would be cheap, by the way. Interestingly, the bank of cylinders with the broken chain resulted in no piston to valve contact. However, when the chain snapped and balled up down at the jack shaft, it is my belief that it jammed the sprocket, and since there are no keyed fittings, the torque of the engine was enough to make the sprocket(s) slip on the jack shaft, which threw the other bank of cylinders out of time and those are the valves that got smashed up.

[@robynsecor9042]

I agree with your post completely. My kit failed as well, galling the rear end if the jackshaft. Total loss.

[@paulstandaert5709]

@@robynsecor9042 What exactly broke on yours? Any pictures of the carnage?

[@paulstandaert5709]

Here are *some* of my pictures.

[@NexGenCarGuys]

how do you remove the crank keyway .. to remove balance shaft sprocket ?

[@byrlpence4648]

Very good how to video. Thanks

[@ghostmost2614]

Does an upgraded more durable guide exist?

[@franciscoadolfo5805]

Excellent explanation. I am about to order the kit. Explorer with 260,000. Are there any further inspections to the other components such as lash adjusters, roller followers. And if so, do you sell those parts. Regards

[@Cloyes01]

Thank you! No, we only supply timing components and related parts.

[@garyvanremortel5218]

How many odometer miles is typical for this job?

[@TheMorumotto]

Hi, thank you for the video. Could you please give a list of bolts required to be replaced (with the part numbers if it is possible). As I understand it is another critical aspect for successful Cloyes product application.

[@iamdjnam]

You need front and rear jackshaft bolts and crankshaft bolt. But please don't buy cloyes. Spend the money on OEM. Do the job once.

[@TheMorumotto]

​@@iamdjnam Thank you, sir, your help is highly appreciated. So, talking about Cloyes parts, you do not recommend them because you have had a negative experience?

[@iamdjnam]

Stanislav A. Bourakov Yes. They lasted 12,000 miles before having to replace again with Ford parts. 40k miles now on the Ford Components and it's quiet as can be.

[@wavegurucanada]

Camshafts bolts are not TTY bolts?

[@AllanDee]

Are the torque to yield bolts included in the kit? Those shouldn't be reused, correct?

[@paulstandaert5709]

Honestly, with the relative unavailability that I found for these bolts, I think people are re-using them. If people were always just getting new ones, I think someone would have gotten on the bandwagon of selling bolt kits on Amazon or something. After torquing LOTS of bolts over the years, a person can get the feel for a bolt that gets to it's yield point. As long as it takes a bunch of torque and doesn't feel like it is about to snap off, it is probably going to work. If it were my own vehicle, I would have taken the chance and re-used them.

[@mgillam333]

do you have a video for the same engine with no balance shaft?

[@Cloyes01]

We do not have a video for the engine without balance shaft. Our kit number for an engine w/o balance shaft is 9-0398SC. If you have any specific questions about the install please call our tech line.

[@jackiemonk5513]

big fan. straight up ....

[@magdump7380]

This is why I bought a 5.0 Explorer.

[@Cloyes01]

Good decision!

[@northdakotaham1752]

Only way to go bud! Getting hard to find however and Ford is getting rid of the V8. Another one of Fords great ideas....NOT!

[@48pianoman]

Very understandable clear Video thank you

[@hardhatcat100]

The rear and front jackshaft bolts are no punks. But finished it without removing jackshaft.

[@Njimmy89]

Hi, What happens if I've already changed the timing chains and tensors and there's still a slightly clacking noise from the chains after using tOEM ? (2007 Ford Explorer 4.0L) PLEASE HELP, AND THANK YOU.

[@UberMenschNowFilms]

Is there a tutorial on how to do a replacement after a timing chain failure?

[@thomascory1981]

yes, throw engine in trash. put in a used or rebuilt engine. will be cheaper. versus replacing pistons/valves/gaskets/time involved

[@philipstarkes8065]

My right rear timing chain is running to close to the rear of the head and not in the middle of the guide. I just replaced all of the components with the Cloyes CT9-0397SC. The old one was tracking in the middle of the guide where it should be. My cam gear is bolted up good and flat with the left handed threaded bolt. Can you tell me if you’ve seen this happen before??

[@lawxx6]

One of your sprockets are backwards

[@joshmclarty1704]

I have a 99 ranger with 4.0 ohv if I put flat top pistons in it will the valves hit or am I good an can I put non roller lifters in it

[@farfromperfect4643]

Wrong place to ask this. If you have Facebook, join Ford Ranger Crazy, has over 14,000 members. Very good info. If not, consult The Ranger Station forums.