The BEST 3D printing material? Comparing PLA, PETG & ASA (ABS) - feat. PRUSAMENT by Josef Prusa

[@CNCKitchen]

Don't forget to share this video on Facebook, Reddit, Twitter and other social media!

[@rikdenbreejen5230]

CNC Kitchen, this is a great video! Thank you, this is great and useful information. thank you for all of you great content it has been very helpful for me

[@1234fishnet]

Don't forget that PLA is not suitable for CPU coolers mounting plates. ;-) I love your videos. Thanks for sharing all the knowledge and please continue with your videos and with the Meltzone podcast too.

[@squidcaps4308]

That filament roll doesn't use less material.. It has lots and lots of hexagonal walls.. If you flatten them all, it is just one flat plane about the thickness of normal filament roll.

[@Bigjeffrey123]

16:00 Density "zu" strenght and stiffness 😂

[@stefanweber4548]

Hallo Stefan, könntest du mal Biofusion von Extrudr testen?

[@diebustergarage3257]

why am i watching this at 3am, i don't even have a 3d printer.

[@daarisbaaris]

Maybe it will come in usefull one day

[@itsmesoitis4059]

01:47am 😁

[@silentgaming9328]

@@colonelhacker3661 no

[@silentgaming9328]

@@eduardo_Skywaller1032 unless you live in india that ender 3 is 230$

[@silentgaming9328]

@@eduardo_Skywaller1032 aliexpress and bangood is banned in india and I was like 😱 when it got banned . It basically was banned to promote Indian products use but india doesn't manufacture 3d printers and so boom .

[@BenWilson24]

As an additive manufacturing engineer, I seriously love how well done the science is on this channel...

[@Patrick_Cooper]

Additive Manufacturing Engineer? You mean you make Nestle Kwik Chocolate milk powder additive. At least that is what I wanted to be at 5 years old...

[@BenWilson24]

@@Patrick_Cooper haha I make metal parts for aerospace applications

[@i.i.iiii.i.i]

@@BenWilson24 And the metal parts are used to stir milk and the nesquick additive together so that the astronauts can have hot chocolate in space, right?!

[@BenWilson24]

@@i.i.iiii.i.i Idk if it would pass as food-grade material, but I did print a friend a fancy inconel coffee tamper

[@jgoodpaster9725]

Actually sounds awesome. I’ve wanted to get into AM for a career for awhile now. Not a lot of jobs that focus specifically on that

[@LTMoore-yy1lm]

7:50 strength tests start. 11:25 stiffness test. 12:25 impact test. 13:20 temperature test

[@edstar83]

0:00 Epic Video starts

[@eastskate639]

Anyone wants 3d print but their parent don't give

[@graydon5497]

thank you

[@yulesh5726]

MVP right here

[@Simon-nx1sc]

thanks

[@ethanvink1710]

I tested PLA, ABS, and PETG for an engineering project last year. I found that PETG was the strongest, ABS was second, and PLA was significantly weaker. I think the design of the hooks is the main difference, where yours was open, and mine was closed. An open hook applies a torque on the material, which may lead to the difference results.

[@rikkardo9359]

How you print it makes a huge difference. When printing hotter, the layer adhesion will increase drastically, especially with PETG

[@leftaroundabout]

Makes sense: in the stiff PLA, most of the cross-section shares the tensile component of the bending force, and only the outer wall takes the compression. Whereas PETG and ABS yield more and thereby distribute the compression zone further inwards, which means the tensile load is more concentrated on the inner wall and thus has to withstand higher tensile stress despite same load. I'd say the open hook is a rather _more_ real-world-relevant test for static strength than pure tension though. PLA's stiffness means you can easier estimate how parts will behave under mixed-compressive loading, you don't need to worry about buckling etc. as much. OTOH, if your 3D-prints need to handle strong, purely tensile loads, you're doing something wrong in design - such tasks are much better given to wires / cables / ropes etc. The flip side is of course that the stiffness exacerbates PLA's brittleness. Definitely not the right material to expose to impacts. Not to mention high temperatures.

[@Valery_1954]

@@rikkardo9359 , At higher printing temperatures, PETG becomes brittle.

[@rikkardo9359]

@@Valery_1954 I do not have that much experience with PETG. Thanks for the info

[@digibluh]

@@Valery_1954 definately not unless your printing too hot for the material and it's crystalizing.

[@zipp4everyone263]

Its true that stiffness does not equal strength, but its also very important to remember that tension stress isnt the only parameter that matters when doing strength testing. Id like to see you test all 5 pillars of mechanical stress: tension, compression, bending, shear, and torsion.

[@arcreed13]

Would be very interested in seeing this test repeated with the prints having spent a significant time under a UV light

[@gg-gn3re]

I can tell you 1 thing: rip PLA

[@steffengr.5556]

What is a significant time? I have Wood PLA stuff outside in the garden since August last year. So far still looks good.

[@gg-gn3re]

@@steffengr.5556 Wood PLA isn't fully PLA. straight PLA degrades here in the sun after like 8 months it starts to crack & be brittle.... Ofc we're at 9000ft above sea level. ABS has lasted forever and petg has so far been ok

[@MaxQ10001]

We already know that PLA can't handle UV. No test needed. If you are going to put PLA printed parts outside in the sun, paint them :-)

[@arcreed13]

Was more interested in the actual figures for ASA vs petg for tensile and deformation post uv

[@bobcunningham6953]

Part design techniques, infill techniques, slicing tweaks, filament selection, printer configuration, the list goes on. So many variables to consider! I'm quickly losing track of how best to get from an idea to a great print using my software tools, equipment and filaments. I'm thinking Stefan has provided enough information to not only generate a basic decision tree, but to provide surface plots of the trade-offs between choices at each level in that decision tree. I'm thinking he should collect his data and wisdom to author a book: "Engineering the 3D Printing Process for Consumer Printers and Filaments." I'd buy one!

[@TimmyBlumberg]

I absolutely agree. That would be a fascinating read. However, I assume it would probably be more profitable for him to spend his time just creating videos like these.

[@julians.2597]

He's putting the info out there, and apparently you're watching it. Just take notes😉. But seriously, take notes. You won't be able to remember the exact results in a week's time, all you'll be able to remember is the tier list you compiled to fit your applicarions. At least thats all I can remember. If you write it down, if in the future you're ever in doubt all you'll need to do is look into your notes, a sub one minute thing, instead of warhhing a 17 minute video you'll have to find first.

[@tralfazy]

Book? What's that? When I need information I look it up on KZbin and other Internet sites. We have the information of the entire world at our fingertips. If I need information it needs it to be searchable, therefore digital. Books are something from the past as far as I am concerned. I've bought thousands of books in my lifetime but no more.

[@JulienTJ]

For me it's PETG all the big things. Easiest to print (always sticks perfectly to the build plate!) and is quite strong. For small items it's PLA because it has the best finish surface. ASA for high temps.

[@glennedwardpace3784]

From an aircraft design perspective, quadcopter or otherwise, ASAs lower density looks really attractive. I can print something 15 percent bigger for the same filament weighty, and design members and walls 15% thicker. Since stress usually acts on the outside skin of a part first, that 15% bigger makes a big difference to the ultimate strength

[@Wernerrrrr]

I think warping might be an issue. 3dLabprint did experiment with a low density PLA for non load bearing parts I saw in a video and they recommend it.

[@CNCKitchen]

Video on that coming 😉

[@seemlesslies]

@@CNCKitchen While it's nice to use 3d printed parts for aircraft related things it's generally one of the worst materials in terms of it's strength to weight ratio especially when you consider alternative like wood or foam or composites. Weight is the enemy when you're making performance aircraft.

[@inkz34]

Hey, have you tested how ABS or resin prints perform in aircraft parts?

[@mikaeljaakkola470]

@@seemlesslies

[@mikerhinos]

Discovered ASA recently, and now it's my favourite filament... If possible use an enclosure because of warping and layer adhesion, fan 20% max , but the best part is it can be smoothed with hot acetone vapour just like ABS. It gives you injected plastique look, with no layer visible at 0.2mm, at all...

[@jimintaos]

Hmm. I may try that on my next filament order.

[@rileyfenley522]

I have been seeing ASA pop up more and more. So I did some research and will definitely be getting some on my next filament order.

[@DrDefimus]

fan at 0% improves layer adhesion massively and helps a lot to prevent warping cracks in large prints

[@karellen00]

Also it's really easy to sand!

[@GnuReligion]

Certainly someone has used multiple extruders to create composite solids with interweaved materials. This may produce interesting strength test results. Nylon/ASA.

[@maurotanure5973]

Here at Speedbird Aero, we are changing from PLA to PETG because of the temperatures in Brazil. On a sunny day, the PLA parts simply can't handle the temperature when the drone is outdoors. Amazing video, as always!

[@JamesMelton]

I'm really grateful for you amd this channel. Being new to 3D printing, caring about the subjects of your content, but lacking the time to learn on my own, your contributions cannot be understated. Please keep up the fantastic work! You have made a huge impact on me already, and allowed me to produce amazing things!

[@radovanobal3842]

I use PETG for anything I use in the car and if there are parts that I expect to break and do not want flying parts all over the place. PLA+ for everything else. I do not have conditions to print ASA

[@LithophaneMaker]

Thank you for your rigorous studies!

[@BikerMage]

I used the sample PLA roll that came with my printer, then immediately switched to PETG. It's a bit tougher to dial in, but the thermal and UV resistance are good things in my opinion. And the warpage can be a good warning sign before complete failure, especially in printer parts. Oh, and small stringing can be easily burned off with a lighter.

[@chipschnarel6180]

Another interesting dimension for your tests would be abrasion. Which materials would be best for uses like gears or shafts and bushings or cams? Do any of the materials self-lubricate as they wear? Your quantified analysis is very useful and unique in this hobby environment. Great job. Thank you. We are looking forward to more videos.

[@JL2579]

PLA would really be the best material - if the temperature resistance wouldn't render it unusable for most applications. (without annealing etc). You can't put it in a car, mount an eletric motor to it, leave it in the sun - its basically living in the shadows^^ . The toughness/strength etc. can usually be compensated by making the part bigger or reinforcing areas.

[@elofgren1]

Ironically, I'm printing some load bearing parts that are literally going in a temperature-controlled closet. My PLA is like "Yes! This is my wheelhouse!"

[@VentoGelado]

But can PLA be exposed to the sun tho?

[@DhruvGN8]

I don't think your car goes to 50 degrees CELSIUS. So it should be good enough for anything of that sort, excluding impact resistance. Edit: clearly I was wrong, sorry, I guess cars do get hot. Thanks to all the people who corrected me!

[@JL2579]

@@DhruvGN8 Cars go up to 70 degrees celsius when left in the sun in summer. And I am not talking about death valley, just normal German summer with 32 degrees celsius outside. Problem is the greenhouse effect within the car

[@independentthought3390]

​@@VentoGelado Yes it can be, uv light will not damage it significantly.

[@BBFPV]

That is why it is called "Hooke's law"

[@CNCKitchen]

That needs to make it on a T-Shirt.

[@badasscop4459]

That review deserves you getting paid my friend, a very detailed review, just wow. Look no further for desiding which filament is the best. 10 star review. 👍👍👍👍

[@jgarmer]

i use petg when i need part to flex a little without snapping like i printed some hooks to keep my shed doors open they needed to bend a little to allow the door to pass under then click down to hold in place when i try pla it just snapped even when i annealed them petg is still going stong. i also notice with many materials exposed to the hsrsh Florida sun petg seems to hold up very well to uv and barely fade its color. Pla can fade quite a bit in the full sun and dark colors like browns and black absorb enough infrared that they wurp badly but lighter colors can survive I print quite a bit of abs in an enclosure made of pvc and mylar blankets and it works quite well for taller print you have to be sure to Orient it so the heat from the bed can flow up the print evenly. if it traps heat the you can get layer issues. The mylar blankets can keep it around 38c in chamber with no problem. Great work on your research.

[@SergiuszRoszczyk]

Great job, as always! I use PLA and PET-G. ASA and ABS are no go for me due to their potential threat to health. I mostly use PLA and support it with PET-G when bending instead of cracking or higher temperature is need (like in-car hooks). I also use flex 40D material as a thin supporting layer (ie to create soft surface on a hand watch mount) or absorb a bit of vibration (like mounting something to my electric scooter).

[@HeroCP7]

Doesn't all materials pose a health risk due to their fume emissions?

[@abyteuser6297]

And microplastics

[@admniyeokuyorsun...3044]

Materials engineer here, even thou the tests are not standard, they are pretty decent to compare the materials. I would prefer petg hands down for most applications. Petg is a very sweet spot of additive manufacturing filaments. It is watertight with 1.75 mm wall thickness, can handle temperatures up to 75-80 degrees, ductile at low strain rates, moderate fracture strength, moderate impact strength, stiffness is a bit low but when you get a wall thickness of around 3mm, its very stiff. It is a very sweet material to 3d print structural parts.

[@jackking414]

why do you like it over asa?

[@kyleniedermeier6651]

I appreciate your consistent testing! Thank you!

[@shahafe2000]

Great analysis, answered most of my concerns on choosing the right filament - as expected PLA is the best for 90% of use-cases

[@maddus_]

I love how in the impact test that the ASA didn't even break all the way through

[@parrottm76262]

Yet another very useful video w/data generally not covered elsewhere. So grateful for your efforts.

[@86abaile]

It seems I was mislead about the strength of PETG, now I'm struggling to think of a use I might have for it.

[@MrWeaponlord]

Same, now i'm thinking about ABS+ or ASA.

[@kamilchodzynski9395]

The same here. However I have the HDglass PETG and it seems to be stronger than PLA I have from the same company. I can really break it easier...I do not get it...

[@alejandroperez5368]

@@kamilchodzynski9395 Higher temperature resistance and it won't burst like PLA, so it is more durable.

[@frankhovis]

I'm more surprised by how well PLA did in the strength test. No PLA I've used would stand any where near 73Kg on that pull test.

[@kamilchodzynski9395]

Exactly, as I said my PLA is far weaker than here presented. Either the Prusa PLA is super strong or PETG very weak unless the settings are special...

[@petemoss7256]

Thank you Stefan, Your video helped me alot with my Antenna block project. I'm printing an antenna holder for the Ubiquiti UAP outdoor wifi antenna. I ended up going with ASA in my final choice due to it's impact strength (it needs to be hurricane-proof), and be wind and bird resistant (wind and birds would twist the antenna to where the wifi would be decreased significantly) ASA also has superior resistance to UV, but also Temperature, and I also needed it to bear hot and humid weather as well as moisture.

[@TheOriginalGeekyNoob]

Really surprised to see PETG perform the way it did, its become my new go-to at present, though its tear as opposed to shear characteristic is desirable for the project I am working on. As you rightly say Stefan, there is no single ideal filament, only a "best for application".

[@danielschnaars6014]

I'm going to watch this more than once. The first time was just pure enjoyment. The second time I realized I should have been taking notes. Will definitely be sharing this video with my students. Thanks!

[@avejst]

Great video as always I use PLA when it is a indoor item I use ASA when it is a outdoor item (and I love the surface of the prints :-) ) I use PETG when the item is a practical item, there you have some ware on the item. more stringing but very usabil oh and mostly from filament PM, i think there quality is in Pruca league. Thanks for sharing :-)

[@gunmetalrook432]

Living in Florida, I default to PETG because of the heat. Nothing I make is regularly outdoors or in the car, but if power gets knocked out or I do forget something in the car I can rest easy knowing the heat won't warp it at all. However, revisiting this video several years later, I do see that I have discounted PLA too much. I will start using them more interchangeably, I greatly enjoy the ease of printing with PLA.

[@jeffvader811]

Love these videos. I've actually used PLA before to 3d print model rocket nozzles, and as long as the burn times were short it held up pretty well. I only saw about 1mm of erosion over a 1 second burn, since the nozzles were single use anyway this wasn't a problem. Might post the testing footage when I've got time to put together a video.

[@triples327]

I've found ASA to have poor chemical resistance, while PETG is generally unaffected. Would be interesting to see how a variety of brands fair on this front as well. Thanks for the quality videos!

[@BelviGER]

I stick to PETG since it prints amazingly and is stable

[@theoldhobbit3640]

As a total newcomer to the 3D printing hobby, this has been a really interesting lesson in the different qualities of different materials. I have been using standard PLA at about £20 per kilo from ERYONE and I find that it is a good all rounder and prints quite well. My idea of a good print may differ from others, but I am very happy with it. Thank you for taking the time to share your results with us.

[@GraveUypo]

i'm a cheapskate so i'll buy whatever is cheapest. never had trouble because of that, cheap ones are pretty good nowadays.

[@Butters69Channel]

I have made a lot of things for my daily life including some chainsaw parts. I use PETG for everything now after some of my PLA parts warped in my car on a sunny day. Lately I've been doing some more detailed work with overhangs and bridges. I miss PLA's no hassle printability.

[@dernicolas6281]

well done comparison. One of the few channels where it's not totally embarrassing how the words stiffnes and strength are used.

[@attackemartin]

was listening to this video while doing other things. but then "for example, if you're crashing your quadcopter" was like awaking from a dream with instant focus :D

[@TsunauticusIV]

Sounds odd but I have discovered that cleaning the filament before printing makes layer adhesion much better. Perhaps some sort of oils form during manufacturing? Not sure. I wipe mine with rubbing alcohol on a rag as I re-spool a new spool onto an empty spool. Give it a try. You’ll be surprised at the amount of gunk on the filament!

[@jacobfalk4827]

I like ABS because I can split difficult parts, print them separately, and then glue them together with ABS glue.

[@grodtstudio]

Try Aceton to glue...this Weld two parts direct.

[@pr51]

Is ABS different to these three?

[@vincentbarkley9121]

Terrific video, you answered all the questions I've been having surrounding filament materials. I love the test apparatus you built.

[@JasonZnack]

Your test methodology seriously disadvantages the ASA layer adhesion. Using a bed slinger with fan on without a heater enclosure is worst case scenario for ASA. Would very much like to see a deeper look into ASA performance with it's unique requirements taken into consideration. It's a really high performance material when used correctly. UV resistance, high temp resistance, chemical resistance, impact resistance, less smell than ABS, and easier to print that polycarbonate.

[@jarnold2000]

J Z good comment - I have been trying to use the Prusament ASA this winter and haven’t been getting good results, especially with layer adhesion. Would also love to see some follow up on how to accommodate ASA with home 3D printers.

[@JasonZnack]

@@jarnold2000 I use a vented tent over my corexy. The heated bed is large and powerful and can keep the inside of the tent to about 40c which seems enough. 0 part cooling fan as well.

[@Muffincaek]

*repeats what Stephan says about ASA and doesn't notice the enclosure*

[@dimitri877]

I use Devil Design uncolored ASA, and can't even print with it when the ambient temperature is under 30°C (bed adhesion/warping). I use a home made enclosure which is clad with insulated reflective foil, capable of reaching a toasty 65°C. When printed in a heated enclosure, I can't even bend similar parts by hand which snap with ease in PLA. Also part cooling is a no-go with ASA, even the hot-end fan can ruin the properties of ASA. The only downside I found (but may be fixable) is that ASA shrinks a lot more when cooling after printing, so holes and alignment keying can be a bit of a pain.

[@jarnold2000]

@@JasonZnack Very cool. I need to try to get to building an enclosure so some sort. Or at least wait until the weather warms up. :) Will try no cooling too.

[@dorkwin]

Was anyone else surprised by the ASA strength test results? I am so glad I saw this before printing some important parts from ASA

[@SuperMakeSomething]

Fantastic as always! Thank you for this information -- very useful and informative!

[@lauril1377]

I'm living in Nordic weather and minus degrees are normal during winter, down to -30C. I'd love to see you test these materials with cold temps also! Another point to add - impact strength of some plastics is increased when they have absorbed some water. I know this from RC hobby and propellers. Running them after winter, when they've dried out, they are very brittle. The trick is to put them into hot water and stay there for 12+ hours. So I hope you could take on cold test and hygroscopic (after printing) test of these materials.

[@dunlop64]

Would love to see a nylon filament done in this

[@Helz777]

Uber fidly. You need to temperature and humidity control your filament - even while printing. Your printer needs to be in an enclosed heated area, and you need to use your spare hot end....

[@davehudson5589]

Excellent video- thanks! In selecting a material, UV resistance is an important variable

[@anjanbabu3429]

Thank you for these experiments, they help me a lot in my own experiments. I've been using eSUN PLA+ for my 3D printed planes for a while now and they seem to perform better than the other materials like Flashforge & Wanhao filaments that I use. It'll be cool if you can compare the eSUN line up of materials experimentally, considering they're pretty inexpensive for the quality that I find in them. I use the PLA+ for fuselage parts & ABS+ for parts that may get hot like motor mounts. I do crude testing for stiffness by hanging weights on printed cantilevers & do drop tests for checking impact strength resistance.

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

You might want to try a double walled enclosure for ABS/ASA. Or an insulated one. You can also make a heated one with a space heater, a duct, a fan and a controller to exhaust the heat to keep it at a constant temperature.

[@digibluh]

that enclosure was HUGE for the printer. it should of been way smaller. lol.

[@spikekent]

Very well presented and highly informative as always. Thanks Stefan. I mostly use PLA but for mechanical parts it's PETG all from @3dprintz. I do have other filaments for other projects too.

[@JuliaC-sp5qk]

Yee 3dprintz filament is brilliant!

[@rusemers]

Brilliant analysis with a balanced interpretation of the measured results.

[@krukhlis]

Thank you, great comparison. But based on my experience and your video -- the specific material brand/vendor matters. All the PLAs I have tried in Canada( beside the Wood PLA which is not regular PLA) are weaker than PETGs. Also, PETGs I've used are significantly more wear resistant than PLA. The spindle mount I have printed with PLA material for my CNC3020 500w spindle has cracked and passed away in ~4 months because of all mechanical impacts and vibration. The same mount printed in PETG works for ~1.5 years without any issues.

[@MichaelsMultiverse]

Just got myself a 3d printer cant wait to make anything I want

[@GraphiP]

I would love to see different types of PLA tested. (Using example I know about) Like Fiberlogy has Impact PLA (Claims to have up to 800% compared to regular PLA and 50% compared to ABS more impact strenght) and HD PLA (special for annealing) and regular PLA's. I wonder how different they really are when tested, is it just marketing or there is some truth there.

[@michaelschaub]

Usually fiber infused materials provide more strength along the layers, but the layer adhesion suffers. Making the weak point weaker and the strongest point stronger has very limited usecases.

[@isaacsegura]

hello Stefan, acordingly to all3d.com "PLA is a pseudoplastic, non-Newtonian fluid. This means that its viscosity (resistance to flow) will change depending on the stress that it is subjected to. Specifically, PLA is a shear-thinning material, which means that the viscosity decreases with applied stress."

[@YunFuriku]

Personally I'm still sticking mostly to PLA due to being relatively new to printing. Expanding to more materials once I get more skilled :) PETG is interesting me at least.

[@michaelschaub]

Try it Today's PETG is super simple. Especially if you have a decent printer like the Prusa, standart settings do the trick. Press start and go to bed. No issue. Perfect surfaces, robust prints.

[@moth.monster]

If you're printing PETG using Cura, make sure to up the temps to something around 240c for the hotend. If you have one where the PTFE tube goes into the hotend, you'll need to get an all metal one for it too. That would only apply with something like an Ender 3 though; the Prusa wouldn't need modifications... maybe to slicer settings thouhg.

[@GraveUypo]

@@moth.monster idk i'm priting petg with 225c and it seems to work better for my filament. increasing the temperature that much causes more stringing. the recommended range on the sticker of my roll is 220~240. although i did get a bit of underextrusion when i was printing with 0.32mm layers that ruined some practical prints.

[@larrys8645]

A very thorough review of the material properties however deciding the proper material for the application may not be obvious. My PLA small quadcopter frame broke one of its arms during a crash on its first flight. The frame was reprinted in PETG and has now completed many flights and many crashes with out damage. For my application PETG is the superior material over PLA.

[@ameliabuns4058]

If only peek wasn't so pricey. And easier to print lol. I wish u tested nylon and pc too!

[@jerrypape5710]

That was the most awesome video about FDM materials I have ever seen. Your work is really meaningful.

[@WhamBamSystems]

Great video, very informative, surprised that PLA was so much stronger than the others!

[@scythelord]

I print mainly PETG. PLA is hard and all, but I've had numerous PLA items shatter, but I've never managed to break a PETG part without seriously trying to break it. One time I printed one of the hand crank sirens out of an expensive color change PLA. Shortly thereafter, the crank handle connection part of the main drive sprocket broke off. I reprinted the broken part in Prusament PETG with similar model settings. After placing it in the siren, I used it again and then the next weakest link in the chain broke, which was another PLA part. After reprinting the entire gearchain in PETG, it's now bulletproof and doesn't break. PETG is a better gear material than PLA in my experience.

[@smashyrashy]

Anyone else watching who doesn't even have a 3d printer😂😂

[@officialusmanqureshi]

This guy does what i do in assignments for fun

[@CurJam87]

I would like to see some testing on some TPU hooks

[@ZILLION4EVER]

look back in his videos, has already been done ;)

[@CurJam87]

dr_BD I can’t seem to find it

[@CNCKitchen]

Didn't test any TPU, yet.

[@licensetodrive9930]

Yes I'd also like to see some TPU hook tests, it's the perfect printable material for holding sport cams & some other things on quadcopters. Its resistance to heat makes it great to hold video transmitters without melting. Only once I've had a TPU part in a crash fail from the layers separating a little bit because it was 'wet' when printed. I just took a soldering iron and melted the seam back together. But now I dry all my filaments and store them in air tight tubs with silica gel beads, dry TPU prints look so good and are so strong.

[@stevehutchesson1321]

Useful testing and comparison. I am currently making GoPro parts with PETG made in Australia where I live and I am very pleased with the results. One quirk, I can sit alonside the machine while I am printing PETG and I cannot detect any odour at all. Using the VisionMiner adhesive on a Creality glass bed and I have no problems removing the finished parts after it cools down a bit.

[@PurchenZuPoden]

What I have discovered with my BASF ASA filament is, that it degenerates the longer the material is in the hot nozzle. I improved the layer adhesion by printing my ASA parts as fast as possible. Have you tried different speeds for ASA, Stefan?

[@marklee08]

ABS for me. As I stay at a tropical country, no moisture issue like PLA. PLA is really good if the environment is dry. I have many instances where I would need to re tube the filament when I don't print often. And sometimes I would need to rework, ie baking it, the whole spool or discard it away.

[@LZNico]

Results at 14:10

[@samvoelkel2046]

My printer is the Prusa i3 MK3. I have only used PLA and PETG. I prefer the PETG, as it is less brittle. The ASA filament looks interesting, so I may try it sometime. Thanks for your analysis of filaments.

[@lavachemist]

It's available on Amazon* *Sometimes

[@gabiold]

Good tests! Finally you shown that PETG is probably the worst choice for machine parts, contrary to the common belief. As I print mostly functional parts (as opposed to design/art) I've read many material's datasheet and came to the same conclusion what your test show. I never really accepted the common mantra as "print in PETG, it is stronger".

[@blackbusiness7]

Charpy machine! That brings back memories from college. Also, I didn't see a pretty graph for the thermal test. (I was screen-shoting* each.)

[@jackytigra]

PETG is my go to filament I don’t have to worry about temperatures unless the part is mounted in high temperature environments (engine bay) but for that I use CF-PA. And as always Great video!

[@fkingride.5500]

8:29 why dont you make them solid ?

[@andreamaralfaria4025]

My chosen filament is ASA for outdoor applications. I produce Paintball equipments and the rigidity and outdoor specs, make it perfect! Hard to print for sure, just took me about 3 months to get it very good!

[@chiraagbohra]

Such a good and educational video! Thanks a lot! I'll try imitating this :D.

[@jacobseay9035]

This is fantastic. Well executed and documented. As an engineer I really appreciate your methods. I have been using PLA+ which has a slightly higher softening temperature and am trying out PETG soon. I have issues with ABS/ASA because I live in a cold area and don't have an enclosure. I have had multiple prints fail because of bad layer adhesion with ABS.

[@Crisisdarkness]

I would recommend you make a closed space for your printer, you can support it with some glass sheets and some metal profiles, the key is not to lose temperature due to your icy environment

[@AlexandreG]

Bro, being an engineer doesn't make your appreciation for his methods any more valuable, I know it might be hard to grasp, but most engineers, and especially the pretenxious ones, are really shitty at knowing their stuff, trust me, I'm an engineer 😂

[@PaulKind3d]

Learned a bit about thermal issues... Printed a 3D Airboat (you can see on my yt page) ran great. Left it in the car can got some lunch, and well.... came back to a pile of warped plastic. 3 months of engineering and printing in the garbage. Now need to reprint in something else that wont deform in a car. I think im going to try using ABS. This was a useful video thanks. People should def know that a hot car gets hot enough the melt or deform pla or pla+.

[@freemannow]

Great Info. Tq very much for all the effort taken to give a good comparison. My experience do not leave any "built product" in a parked car for too long with temp reaching 43 deg C and does not last long in a water filled aquarium (unless built dense)

[@dolkslab]

the original prusa® i3™ mk3™ made by Prusa® labs™ by Joseph™ Prusa® using PRUSAMENT™ by Prusa® Labs™ Approved by Joseph™ Prusa® Using original Prusa®Slicer™ by Joseph® Prusa™

[@bladelaw]

I use PETG for my general purpose uses. It generally survives the hot car test and I don't need the rigidity of PLA and I lack the environment to consistently print ASA. Warping drives me absolutely nutty and I've never had warping issues with PETG. I can deal with stringing as the stuff I print I can usually torch it off and clean it up but warping has ruined more than a few of my PLA prints.

[@NurettinSevdik]

There is a material called STH from Turkish manufacturer ABG Filaments it has the ease of PLA when its printing, strength of this is outstanding compared to the ABS and PETG and has the heat resistance of PETG without any bad petroleum smell and its just 120 Turkish Liras (Approx. 20 Euros)

[@NurettinSevdik]

and it is really awesome for everything

[@meisievannancy]

Petg also makes great flexible dough scrapers for high hydration sourdough scrapers.. I found this by accident when I removed a raft for an object and had lost my sourdough scraper. The raft did the trick despite being printed a little too open for food. But in flour and dough this is not really a health problem as dough relies on yeast to ferment anyway. My glass bed first layer is hotter and the print comes of with one side really having a closed shiny surface.

[@teddysurf]

Jesus Christ I’m literally 4 minutes into this thing and he hasn’t gotten to the content yet... Update: scratch that 6 minutes and still hasn’t got to the content...

[@WaemYt]

ASA is uv stable and can withstand temperature upto about 100 degrees celsius which might be its biggest advantage. So it can be a good choice for outdoor project in the sun. The bad layer adhesion compered to PLA is a huge bummer because it limits the the design posibilities.

[@Hazdazos]

Nice video. It's good to see these kinds of tests that are usually too involved for regular users to do, but I do want to point out that the colors for these materials should have been the same to help minimize variations. The carbon black used to create the black filament will change the properties of the base plastic differently than the pigments used to create orange and green. I know it wouldn't have been quite as pretty of a video if all the filaments were the same color but it would have been a little more scientific. Heck, maybe a future test you test different colors of the same material and see how much the color affects various properties. That might be interesting to watch.

[@HansBrodiAutomotive]

The quality of these videos is insanely good!

[@jimintaos]

Somewhat new to 3d printing but have shifted from PLA to PETG because of the higher thermal resistance in the event I leave one of my prints in the car. I have not tried ABS or ASA yet. The one thing I really don't like about the PETG is the hard little globs that sometimes get jammed up in the print and either cause it to break free of the bed or cause the belt to skip and offset the layers from that point.

[@natewalker4666]

I have many brands of PLA and the Prusa filament is by far the best. I rarely have any issues with the way the layers look. It may be due to me using the shiny galaxy purple that may hide some lines but it still looks great.

[@miquelmarti6537]

I'v been trying to design a durable 3D printed racing drone frame for some years already. After having tested most materials, I found that the best one for the frame was Fiberlogy Impact PLA. It's also one of the easiest to print.

[@CondensedComments]

Stop! Don't leave this video! If you're like me and just want someone to say "x is the strongest filament," abandon that cause and watch this video! I did (at 2x speed) and can say it'll answer that question in the detail required that you didn't know was necessary! The tests and experiments contained herein were excellent. Maybe because the concept was new to me, the impact test astounded me at it's simplicity of design. I wasn't sure if this was an industry standard or his own invention but I knew that the results, regardless, were accurate. The 3 point test was scientifically exact and accurate as well. The thing I found interesting in regards to "x = best" was that each filament may serve better in different applications and you could potentially use different filaments in the same machine depending on what stress is where. Well done video. Subbed! Proverbs 27:17

[@Optikification]

I am currently using Sunlu Silk PLA+ on my ender 3. Prints and looks great.

[@JensJackowski]

The Most intressting point for me is the durability and water resistantance. I make many devices that i use outdoor and stay in sinlight under many months. So i usually end Up using PETG

[@CoopBo]

I mostly use overture easy pla because it’s easy to print with, but I just ordered some Voxelab ASA-CF that I’m excited to try out.

[@240plazer6]

Right now personally asa is my favorite for mechanical parts

[@dexagalapagos]

I spent years printing with PLA, then switched to PETG and never looked back. PLA warps under strain, even on a warm day in sunlight, it also tends to crack over time. PETG is a more stable material.

[@youtubevanced4900]

Printed a monitor vesa mount today. Put a 27" monitor on it. 2 hours later the Mount snapped and the monitor fell into the camp chair and cushions I had setup just in case. I printed it in PLA. I printed it in an orientation that didn't require supports but it reduced the strength. It snapped between layers.