Cold Casting Using TC-808 Jet Black Resin Using Dusting Method

[@bjbenterprises]

Another great video Mitch and thanks for the material highlights. For many years TC-808 has been a very popular rigid, ABS-like fast-cast polyurethane for Movie Props, Product Development Parts, and, as you mentioned, aftermarket auto bezels and such. It is 78D Shore hardness, has good heat and impact resistance for making real-world parts; both thin walled and mass castings. Couple notes: Pre-blending that B-side to keep the pigment in suspension is key to getting rich, dark, black cured parts. You can shake it or you can use a flat-bladed stirring spatula/utensil to minimize bubble entrapment. Also, heat resistance of any rigid casting resin will improve with an elevated temp post cure to ensure the max heat resistance. This is highly advisable in auto applications where summer temps become extremely high. Reading the Tech Bulletin will explain that in detail. -BJB 🙌😎

[@brickintheyard]

Thanks for the inside scoop, Troy!

[@tmorrgold4929]

Look who I found on youtube as I was going down a different rabbit trail on cold casting resin techniques! This should be fun! :-)

[@brickintheyard]

This is a crazy rabbit trail indeed!

[@tmorrgold4929]

@@brickintheyardhaha, well not as crazy as some 'interesting books' ... :)

[@kurogiza]

Great video! If I wanted the rear of the medallion to also be metal coated, could I make a squish mold and pre-coat the backside of the mold with powder? Or will the powder dislodge and sink to the bottom? How about adding lead / shot weights to the medal, to make it heavier? Would I need to wait for a specific cure stage before adding shot to the medal? Thanks for any answers...

[@brickintheyard]

You could do that, just be careful when applying the back of the mold. It might take some finesse!

[@TheHobbyShopFilms]

I use the TC-808 for casting firework cue bases. I do not have problems with air bubbles on the larger parts, but smaller parts, like the edge of that medallion, can trap air bubbles very easily. Also, I count to thirty during my fast stirring process, then pour the outside of the mold first and move toward the center. I have had very good results. Also, shaking up the material 1st, then let it sit for 10. minutes before combining and mixing the two parts helps to minimize the bubbles.

[@brickintheyard]

Thanks for the tips!

[@Jerry-67]

thanks for the video

[@brickintheyard]

Thanks for watching! Your phone call inspired some new content!

[@Jerry-67]

@@brickintheyard for sure- looking forward to the next video with the backfill of the TC-1630 Ultracast

[@HenkJanBakker]

Tip: Put the brush in a bag. The powder is rather dusty and also will attract its own dust. You really want it to stay as clean as possible. I sticky tape the bag with the brush to the side of the pot. Clean and no mixing it up.

[@StoneE4]

Does all the metal powder come out of the mold when you demold the part?

[@brickintheyard]

Whatever the resin touches in its liquid state gets bonded to the surface of the cast part. If you keep the layer of metal powder thin, it will all come out with the cast.