Coloring and applying laminating film (doculam) to model airplane wings

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[@Tom-wl9sx]

Great video! It's always a pleasure to watch em. Wait for your next one.

[@jamesmcglinchey2295]

Thanks for the very informative video! Just bought some 1.2 mil laminating film and I’m looking forward to use it for the first time. Thanks Hope and Josh! Always great content!

[@dieseltinus6680]

Thank you for the video. Q: The doculam is just stuck on the plain balsa? No dope or anything? Greetings from the Netherlands.

[@joshuawfinn]

Correct. No finish or anything. I do normally cover the top first so that I can wick thin CA into the bond at the dihedral breaks since regardless of technique, I have trouble with film popping loose there (including with monokote).

[@kenkingsflyingmachines2382]

I don't know how to tell you this, but Hope was right. Within the first few minutes of unnecessary apologizing about your ad hoc operation, my jaw dropped open in amazement. So THAT'S the "mylar covering" everyone carries on about! I bought a kit from another supplier (sorry) and the instructions kept referring to "laminate" and I couldn't figure out what the stuff was. But there you are with a lifetime supply. And you solved the apparent painting "problem". Do you think one could put tissue on top for extra color/strength? Brilliant addition to the internet knowledge base. Thanks. I was mildly disappointed you didn't do it all with a budgie on your shoulder.

[@joshuawfinn]

Ken, glad you enjoyed it. :) You can definitely put tissue over laminating film, just brush some really thinned out adhesive like Sig Stix It or similar to make sure the tissue adheres when dry (I apply the tissue wet). The results are excellent!

[@dawarium7707]

Great tutorial! You mentioned wing warping during the streching process, how does one manage to fix that? I'd imagine a light structure like that would be easily bent out of shape as the laminate shrinks. Thanks!

[@joshuawfinn]

Any warps can be changed using heat application while forcing the wing to the correct twist. The result are incredibly quick and effective.

[@dawarium7707]

Thanks for the reply!

[@TroyBallard]

Hi All. I have some of the .6 mil J&H doculam and tried to cover a couple e-20 stabs with it but was not successful so didn't even try it on the wings. I have no experience with monokote or any other such film, just tissue and poly span. I painted the doculam very lightly with Design Master paint on the adhesive side. I used 1 coat of 50/50 thinned nitrate dope on the balsa structure. I used a monokote type iron set to 212 degrees which is as low as it will go. The doculam went on pretty good (bottom first then top then the ribs tacking around the edges first then working them together like the video) but the structure was warped terribly by the time I tacked all the ribs down. I tried to heat the doculam with the iron and hold in place on a flat surface as it cooled and was able to get some of the warp out but it was still warped so I kept trying with more and more heat and even a heat gun. I was never able to get it to flatten. Similar experience on the next stab that I tried. Before I try again I wanted to see if anyone could give me some pointers/advice. I think the dope on the frame may have been adding some difficulty so am going to try skipping that, good idea or bad?. I was wondering if someone could give me some more specific guidance on the iron temp? Is there a trick to taking the warps out that I am missing? Anything else? Thanks in advance for any advice!

[@CuetoRafael]

Hi, thanks a lot, very didactic.

[@thetwogardens6048]

Is that an Enamel paint ?

[@joshuawfinn]

Yeah, Krylon specifically, although others will work.

[@larzhillbot1443]

i just love doculam use it on my small glider wings

[@joshuawfinn]

Gotta be the best plastic covering ever. I still have to use vintage monokote for fast stuff and rubber models that don't have X ribs...much harder to use that doculam though.

[@neilgillies6943]

I'm thinking that 0.6mm doculam is _extremely_ thick - then realised that you meant 0.6 mil and not mm - FWIW, 15.2um - that should be just fine then :-)

[@cstatman]

i am SOOO dissapointed in you Josh. "Under Protest" -- yet I did not see a sinigle protest banner or sign. No one was marching around chanting into a megaphone... you didnt have the kiddos wearing oddball clothes with slogans markered on them.... you gotta UP your "protest" game amigo! :) :) :) brilliant video, thank you for sharing the wisdom...

[@joshuawfinn]

Lol! Maybe next time!

[@StephenFauble]

I used to use Doculam a lot on CL Combat planes, great stuff and nice video!

[@matthewallen3375]

You talked about tacking down the film under "low" heat. What temperature is that? I only have a household iron and heat gun,

[@Colin_Holloway]

I am building an lightweight DLG that uses 3D printed ribs. Would this doculam be "low temperature" enough to allow use on a carbon rod and PLA rib wing? For reference, here is the DLG: kzbin.info/www/bejne/i6m1mqGlhq5neKcsi=XNwCtS0eLa5ErZA3

[@joshuawfinn]

Oh dang it's a modernized Bug!!! I used to fly with Carl Dowdy who designed the original Bug. Anyway...the 0.6mil doculam is perfect for the temp range of PLA. The thicker doculams require too much heat.

[@Colin_Holloway]

@@joshuawfinn Sure is! @Geode has done an awesome job! Now to find a supplier of 0.6mil in Australia...