Comparing 2k vs 4k vs 8k 3D Printed Space Marines to Games Workshop

Can you tell which one of these models is 3d printed? I 3d printed a space marine in 2k, 4k and 8k to compare 3d printing against the official Games Workshop models.
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This video was inspired from channels like Midwinter Minis, Goobertown Hobbies, WintersSeo, Say Hi Paul, Squidmar Miniatures, Miniac Painting, Black Magic Craft, Real Terrain Hobbies and Geek gaming scenics.

[@battlebrothersam]

If you want to support the channel further please pledge to my patreon. www.patreon.com/battlebrothersam

[@TheJankyTank]

Check how anti aliasing affects support strength, I’ve very much noticed the same thing

[@NimbleForge]

If you need a high-res SM model I have something I have been cooking up and am looking to publish in the near future. Let me know and I would be glad to send you a preview. Been following your content for a while. I used your "This Is Everything You Need To 3D Print Warhammer Models" as a guide for getting my first resin printer a couple months ago. Thanks for all the content and community you foster.

[@falsehero2001]

Won’t they be able to tell from the weight?

[@rthj6446]

I wish I had those stl files 😢

[@derpythespy]

why not... 2k vs 4k vs 8k vs.... *40K* 3D printed Space Marine

[@EatPoo]

Comparing 2k, 4k, 8k and 40k. Go for higher quality STL.

[@battlebrothersam]

I tried to keep it fair between the printers but i should've printed a HD model as well! Lessons learned

[@EatPoo]

@@battlebrothersam Great video all the same!

[@tyscott7769]

​@@battlebrothersam probably would have been more fair to print the highest quality model on each to get a fair assessment. Love the content. You are my favorite 3d printing content creator

[@joelwashere5382]

Hi are you a robot?

[@bubandlisa]

Miniatures community are snobs.. oh you have a 4k printer how very droll.

[@tidomann]

With how much has evolved in the past 2 years in printer and resin technology, let's see how STL's have evolved as well! Strangely the bolter not being hollowed out was a clear giveaway for the games workshop model for me!

[@Dezkoi]

for me it was the layer shift on the left legs mid shin, as well as a layer line on right knee pad. Tho the non hollow bolter i though was cause he forgot to drill it NGL lol

[@Botjer1]

For me it was the design of the helmet, GWs is just alot better sculpted.

[@SiggyCloud]

Not the massive blocky lines on the round surface of the powerpack?

[@Botjer1]

@@SiggyCloud haha no XD didnt even look there

[@Nomadx83]

You can still hollow it

[@elisabeth5111]

If the starting STL is lower poly it won't really matter which printer it was printed on, in fact the higher the resolution the more it would prob highlight the lower poly's. If you'd started with a higher quality STL and then did the comparison I feel it would of been a bit more useful. Of course the difficulties of finding a 1 to 1 for a GW model would prob also be more difficult as well. Interesting idea for a video at least. I don't really see the point of the "plan", personally there are so many STL creators out there that showcase how much better 3d prints can be than GW's stuff already. Passing as a GW model is hardly a challenge IMO.

[@ulforcemegamon3094]

Yeah , he should have selected a high-quality STL in first place and then do the whole 2k , 4k thing imo

[@Tinytraveler]

I've mentioned in the past, you are one of the main reasons I started including 3d printing into my collections. Cheap, easy to commission models, and fun when it comes to customizations. Please don't poke the bear that is GW, you might be a smaller channel, but your content is great and I'd hate to see them wreck your shit simply cause you pissed them off. Lets be real they are petty af. Love your vids Sam!

[@Commodore22345]

"Lets be real they are petty af." Exactly. Look at how they went after Gamza once he started doing those price comparison videos where he was showing just how much cheaper 3D printed models are compared to buying from GW.

[@forgottencameras]

I'm really hoping that the Amazon 40k 'universe' takes off, GW makes a tremendous amount of money, and they just license it like Pathfinder, where fans can make their own stuff. The amount of money they are making with the IP and other media must absolutely dwarf profits they are making with minis, and that gap is only going to get wider.

[@greaterpainter7996]

Focusing on 2k/4k/8k doesn't really mean much. It's more about x/y resolution. An 4k printer with a 5 inch buildplate will produce the same detail as an 8k with a 10 inch buildplate. With that said IMO anything with an xy resolution of 30ish microns or less will replicate models indistinguishable from GW save any layer lines/ file differences. I had a phrozen sonic mini 8k sitting in the box for a year because the mini 4k that I was using was that good. The place where high resolution printers shine their ability to retain all the detail while still cranking up the anti-aliasing for smooth high detail prints.

[@GrandNagusEli]

This comment should be higher.

[@JamesBuggemo]

Certain slicing programs have anti-aliasing settings that can reduce the “grow lines” and edge fractals on those lines. It’s worth experimenting to get right, because if you can dial it in, it produces nearly flawless prints that don’t look printed at all

[@burningphoneix]

I think it would be best to just do the priming and compare to make the differences more clear. Painting tends to hide these things.

[@aranil89]

Or highlight depending on the techniques used, like dry brushing. Agreed on the priming only

[@originalguckfoogle]

It's because he doesn't know how to thin his paints, they all look the same with the chunky ass paint.

[@viciaoalwow95]

For these small details Sam do you use antialiasing moddifier? With my Elegoo Saturn 2 8K this option gives me smooth models. Also you can "smooth" the low poly areas with ZBRush

[@battlebrothersam]

You know what I don't think I do!!! I should try that first but thanks I didn't know about zbrush!

[@lordnovas]

I don't think you should continue with your secret plan it doesn't accomplish much, 3D artist is pushing the SM template father than the GW has in the past few years, I even seen Crab Marines. A better test is to find a busy Park/Street and ask people what models are better and why. Then tell them the price. People Drop Jaws its funny to see the avg person trip balls over the price of a plastic model lol

[@TheDainerss]

With both the Leviathan and 10th Ed. Ultimate Starter being $250+, and individual characters going for $50 - $100 each, GW is pushing people to 3D printers. For the price of the two sets I mentioned, you can get a 12K printer. It is outrageous what they are charging for plastic and At the detail these are at now, I see more and more people moving to resin printing. And with other games openly sharing their STLs or making them available for a fee, it is just enhancing the reasons to print your own models.

[@andyseverance1519]

I'd be interested to see if you used Anti-Aliasing on the 4K and 8K printers if it would fix the polygons on the backpacks.

[@preddes6522]

So the problem with the polys has to do with the STL and not the printer. you'd need to take it into a modelling software like maya or blender and increase the polycount to smooth it out.

[@terugue]

@@preddes6522 your slicer has an anti-aliasing feature to alleviate poor polycount

[@Mephiston]

@@terugue This. Anti aliasing was introduced to help blend out layer shifts, and if he's using an 8k printer then it should have zero layer lines.

[@peterkiss1204]

@@terugue Not really. Anti-aliasing is to reduce the "sampling error" caused by the finite detail density capability (in this case the resolution along the X-Y plane) of the LCD screen by some sort of "over sampling" (by varying intensity or exposure time on concerned areas). But it won't help on the problem of low polycount as it is a problem of the model and not the method of its reproduction. On the other hand image blur would indiscriminately wash away the sharp edges somewhat covering up the low poly nature of the model.

[@noviceartisan]

@@peterkiss1204 Most of us dump Image Blur into AA as it's a suboption within the AA menu in Chitu, that's not able to be enabled unless you tick the AA box.

[@Hellspawnxxx]

I will tell you how they will know its 3D printed and its not based off the looks it will be because of the weight. You can 100% feel the difference in weight from a mold injected plastic GW space marine versus a much heavier dense resin 3D print. The only way to test your theory is too not allow the GW shop owner to hold the piece and that's unlikely. BUT if you placed the space marine in a small display case and handed it to them, they won't detect the weight difference.

[@flynnlong9998]

If you know Space Marines, you instantly know which head is the real deal.

[@MorganScott82]

Sam, I hope you know this but, just in case, and for your audience, resolution is only half the picture. Its about how many pixels the screen fits into a given area, also called the XY Accuracy. A 6" 2k screen has as many pixels per sq cm as a 4k 10" screen, so they produce the same results. The original Mars (2k) and the original Saturn (4k) have basically the same XY accuracy. If you're comparing two printers with the same build volume the one with higher resolution is better but if the screen is bigger you have to think about more than just resolution. This is why the best printer currently available is the Phrozen sonic mini 8k at 22 micron xy accuracy (compared to something like the Saturn 2's 28 micron or the original Saturn or Mars's 50 Micron) though it is be about to be eclipsed by the Saturn 3 or Anycubic M5s at about 19 micron both of which have Saturn like screen sizes, but 12k screens.

[@mattmanchip9419]

Thank you so much, I'm buying a printer after my big exams, and may have made a document which contains stl's for 4 armies, and pieces to bulk out kits planned for the future, thank you for being so inspirational.

[@battlebrothersam]

Thanks brother!

[@ScytheNoire]

The entire 2K, 4K, 8K is completely misleading, because it doesn't tell you what the actual detail level the printer is able to get out. A small scale 4K can have higher detail levels than a large scale 8K. The spec that matters is the XY Resolution. Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K has a XY res of 35μm, whereas the Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K has a XY res of 43 µm. So if printing miniatures, you can get finer details with the Mini 4K than the Mega 8K. It's all about getting the right size for what you want to print, and just pay attention to the XY resolution, that's what matters.

[@ss-oq9pc]

The horizontal lines on the legs on both the 4 and 8 k models gave it away.

[@cberg2731]

It's going to get to the point where GW will have to lower prices because people will start making their own models.

[@exodous02]

I remember a while ago I watched a review of a 8k printer and the reviewer was setting it up against a 4k printer and determined 8k lost because the 4k prints were better. What he didn't realize was the 8k printer had a huge print bed and the 4k printer bed was a lot smaller. Printers need to be advertised by pixel density not by resolution. A 4k printer less than half the size of a 8k printer is going to be higher quality because of pixel density.

[@hillybanson]

Just wanna say sam your content quality has taken a quantum leap forward in the short time you've been making content. Really great job man keep it up.

[@battlebrothersam]

Thanks brother!

[@lewiskearney3797]

In addition to using/not using hot water, your 8k is probably slightly overXP meaning your supports are stronger on it 👍

[@joshuacallaway5984]

While modeling from scratch in Blender is a bit daunting, you can import the low poly model you have and try an operation called "Sub-divide faces". As long as the stl is a manifold (no holes and only one face) that should work a treat to make all those poly faces disappear.

[@Adlore]

this will harm sharp edges, so you should manually mark sharp edges as seams first, then subdivide with a reduced weight for the seems. This will keep the seams sharp and smooth the rest

[@joshuacallaway5984]

@@Adlore Hey, thanks for the good info! I'm still very much an amateur at Blender. I guess this would explain why some of the models I've tried this on look like crap...lol. I will definately try that out the next time I need to smooth some low poly models.

[@wernerstrauss613]

I 3D print just for the huge variety of models not just Game Workshop inspired models but models from any creator that has interesting models

[@itsallfunandgames723]

Lots of high quality space marine backpack stls out there, you can definitely print models to the same quality as HIPS casting. I could tell as you were painting which one was GW though because it had a mold line.

[@savagex466-qt1io]

The Emperor of Games Workshop is tracking your position !

[@ScytheNoire]

Are you using the Cones of Calibration to make sure your exposure settings are right? It's the exposure calibration that doesn't rely on human perception, it has a pass-fail design, and I think you may want to use it to get your exposures correct.

[@ArkChanneltrue]

I'm doing it in 2k, because I still haven't had the money to buy a 4k one, it's been working very well

[@battlebrothersam]

2k is great and it's getting cheaper every year

[@skankhunt446]

@@battlebrothersam The Mars 2 is already 100$ don't know if they can get any cheaper . Tbh with the printer prices so cheap already I cant understand people who still spend like 500-700$ on a 2k point army

[@ClokworkGremlin]

The 4k and 8k models still had support marks, and had aliasing on the legs and collars that give them away as 3D printed models at any resolution. If you're not going to clean those up, then trying to get one of your models displayed in an official GW store's window is stabbing the management at that store right in the back.

[@catherder6552]

Gotta remember "A good paintjob adds detail to a bad mini, But a bad paintjob can forever ruin a great mini"

[@gregsmw]

yeah i really like 3d printing and how accessable and relativly sheep it is (i have an anycubic m3 myself which iv used a LOT) but in all your comparisons i immediatly picked out the GW model i even called that you had mixed up the models when you showed them individually the printed models have a few small lines and artifacts from the printing which are noticable, but the real givaway is the sculpt, ONE glance at the head of the miniatures immediatly told me which one was the GW one as the printed ones just arent as good, the heads are narrower, the eyes and face vent more tilted, the shapes are all just slightly off, and i didnt even need to consiously think, i immediatly subconsiously knew which one was the GW one and which ones were printed

[@battlebrothersam]

I knew while editing it was going to be obvious 😂😂 I think I'll do a community post with a higher def model that's closer to official

[@sophieadams4155]

You'd think they'd know the difference but you'd be shocked how many people work in a store and don't know much about what they're selling.

[@TheRockDK]

I think it's time to update this video. I have a 3dprinter that prints 18um pixel size with 20um layer height. I see absolutely no lines after priming my models and I usually have eagle eyes when it comes to layer lines.

[@Wizard311]

poly can be reduced with Blur/Anti-aliasing without loosing detail but its a delicate balancing act to say the least. But, finding better STL files is a much easier solution if available.

[@BallBusta]

This is probably the only video I can think of that I honestly wish was also filmed in 4k.

[@MrBiggybit]

the bravest man on youtube right here. He gets those emails from GW and sends them straight to spam, god bless you

[@fredrikjohansson2743]

Does First Born Stl files exist that are the same size as GW's Primaris marines?

[@TheAlterspark]

Even if they don't you can scale up quite easily

[@GromStal]

The difference between the models is huge! And it's easy to see. Models made on a 3d printer have uneven surfaces, incorrect proportions of some parts, such as an eye on a helmet. The model from Games Workshop is smooth and pleasing to the eye.

[@sundowner8326]

Aye, the Games Workshop marine clearly stuck out, the quality is miles ahead. People wonder why they have high prices but you pay for that premium quality

[@dorbie]

I saw some info saying that 8k printers create fillets in corners unless you use a more opaque resin due to finer layers and light bleed. This is probably what is strengthening your supports. Go with a darker resin to fix it. You will have to cure for longer though. I can see the polygonization easily. I also see striations (layer steps) quite conspicuously on the thigh, edge of the gorget and elsewhere. There's also a layer shift line on the shin of one leg, on both printed models. I hope you get a finer detail mesh model and attempt to place it in the store. You might have to go with a finer layer height if that's possible (it will make the support fillets worse so you will need darker resin).

[@dderajj2166]

I think it's very noticeable but just because of the STLs themselves.

[@SuperEagle112]

We have an elegoo 8k Saturn. The quality and speed by which we are printing tanks and full squads is so exciting. I cannot justify spending GW kind of money on models. I will consider getting books and supplies from local stores to support them. Just time to be fiscally responsible.

[@badadger]

Finish the squad and then take them all to GW. See if they would put them on display and then call it there. Pointing out that GW is expensive is like stating the sky is blue but it would still be a fun experiment.

[@ssd2579]

Personal opinion of course. Whilst I don't mind the odd upgrade/weapon/etc 3D printed, when it comes to an entire model, I am yet to see one that is not immediately identifiable that it's been 3D printed. Even the tiniest layer size is still detectable unless you spend a good amount of time sanding and cleaning to smooth it all out. 3D v Injection is like digital v analogue, digital is cheap and fast, but limited. Analogue is a little esoteric but the quality is hard to match due to it being far less constrained. I didn't even need to look at the barrel without a hole to tell which was which, it is still glaringly obvious (8k doesn't even look much better from here which is saying something, it is definitely NOT twice as good). This is specific to this particular vid for the most part, but in the general scheme of things, I think too many ppl just use crappy files and call it a day unfortunately. That aside, you may want to retest with the highest quality stl you can get, as digital stuff doesn't scale well with quality. You have to HAVE quality to GET quality. I'd happily re-eval.

[@deformiertergolfball4847]

you dont see any layers in resin prints. at least, i have not even seen a single layer line since i use my printers. fdm printers do have lines and you have to clean them up.

[@ssd2579]

@@deformiertergolfball4847 I watched the video buddy, I can see the lines (even on the Tyranid he printed). Though I did state he should try again with a better quality STL. Pity you can't post pics, I'd like to see some of yours for comparison :D

[@deformiertergolfball4847]

@@ssd2579 id honestly like to see the lines, i have to be braindamaged then. i mean i know mold lines from gw models but if its decent i do not see any difference on the gaming table. maybe my eye just does not witness such details idk

[@ssd2579]

@@deformiertergolfball4847 You're not technically wrong, most eyes see things a little different, whether its colour/focal point/etc. My eyes only work up close cause I'm short-sighted lol. Tbh though, having done extensive 3D CAD does kinda mean I know exactly what to look for for the most part and straight away I spot the striations on the backpacks and greaves as well as poly on parts like the elbows.

[@ginozancanaro3346]

just printing the bodies would be enough: in gw boxes there are many heads, weapon that are not used.if you print the body you can easily attach those spare bits. at that point the difference is almost impossible to tell

[@darkhighwayman1757]

That is fact. I have a huge pile of heads and weapons

[@pavma7]

The helmet was an easy giveaway but thats a modeling issues, not the printers fault

[@panzerabteilung]

the best way to compare those qualitys, its making car bodys, in a figure it doesnt impact so much as in a car

[@lucabaldi2034]

I could get the real one simply because of the leg pose :) , super nice job anyway, keep up the good work man!

[@bobbybell36]

If you cant see the poly faces on the 2k print that means the 8k wins, the poly face is detail and the 2k couldnt print it.

[@ProfessorOfPoorTaste]

"How do you tell which of these is 3d printed" Easy, most 3d printed helmets are proportioned incorrectly. Wide face and narrow 'mohawk' = 3d printed.

[@S.A.S.H.]

Did you use anti-aliasing when you printed the 4K and 8K models? The polies are visible on things like the round bits of the backpacks, and I'm wondering if AA would reduce their obviousness.

[@deraxelturrelkeign]

I guessed all three correct the give away on the 4k is the right (from the marines perspective) grieve there appears to be a layer shift and on the 8k model the layer shift is on the left grieve. It was difficult to find it even with the model in full sized for the HD screen. I'd imagine that layer shift would be hard to see before painting so it might be difficult to hide unless it was fixed then repainted.

[@jamtea573]

The difference between the 3D prints is very obvious on the elbows and the legs. I don't think they'd fool anyone if they were told to check for differences. I'd blame the STL though, as the print quality is superb.

[@bananaxbanana3784]

Another Amazing video Brother

[@battlebrothersam]

Thanks brother!

[@EmonWBKstudios]

4 secs in I immediately know the middle model is the genuine article. I wait to eat my words.

[@jaegerbomb269]

When I settle down, I, too, want to get into 3d printing for the bits.

[@Luka_Nogalo]

I was able to spot the true GW Marine But was working as a professional 3D Printer and I think over 90% of people arent able to spot the little seams that the layers create. Maybe go over them with a file? 6:03 Look at the left marines collar and the right marines lower left leg youll be able to see them

[@zraal3759]

Resolution rating does not mean much with out knowing screen size. A 4k and 8k printer can have the same quality print, but thr 8k will be a larger printer. A better ratting is voxel size.

[@IPrint3dMinis]

Are you using an 8K resin? If so, the toughness is simple. 4K resins have a slightly lower tensile strength than 8k resins, really just due to the formula. In most cases Standard 2k resins will have the lowest tensile strength. This will make the supports tougher, harder to pull off, and leave more damage. I love the compare and show, this is a great example of how printing has come full circle, and where as we were told that printers would never match the quality of injection molds a few years back, etc. like traditional models are made, or even resin molds and the like. Personally I feel the 4k and 8k are so close in quality either one is a little better looking than the GW version. Short of those polys, there is a blender trick you can use to smooth them out, but it does require some blender knowledge and a a bit of patience. Nice vids, btw. Got my sub.

[@acecab5397]

Honestly 4K isn't that bad, it just needs a little sandpapering.

[@superchroma]

topology may be sloppy but the tiny vents show that detail definition on printed models exceeds the detail levels GW is putting on their own models

[@kriegdeathkorp1286]

hello brothers, I want to get a 3d printer but i dont know wich one to pick ¿do you have any recomentations?

[@RestlessSoul45]

depend on what you want to play. if you want to play wine and or really onramented armys a smaller printer with better resolution is the choice, for a horde or tank army a bigger printer , to put yout more models at the same time makes more sense. i print scince the "Astartes" incident and use a Elagoo Saturn, wich is totally fine to use if you want to print truescale marines. for finer miniature this is sometimes a littlebit tricky but i wouldnt want to miss the ability to print a tank the size of a macharius in 3 prints so about one to two days. best is to inform yourself about the printer. and the comparison. imo a 8k printer is for starters way overkill atleast if you dont want to print high detailed busts.

[@battlebrothersam]

I would say any saturn sized printer if it suits your budget

[@kriegdeathkorp1286]

@@RestlessSoul45 have you heard of the creality halot one? do you know if its a good printer? cause thats the only 3d printer I can find where i live

[@darklight5383]

Hi so I am new at the 3-D modeling printing and I was wondering which model you recommend if it’s a resin one or the other one and all of that? It’s for fun 40k, d&d, aliens but we do want amazing quality and that it will last of for a while

[@flounder2283]

GW created a whole amazing universe in Warhammer, and work hard to keep it fresh and exciting. That costs money to run such a global business, not to mention all the other smaller companies that feed off it, including all those youtube channels. It would be a shame to loose all that to 3d printing. And what is a few a bucks for a the model. I know people that pay seven bucks for a coffee. 3d printing is great and there are plenty of great models to print that don't infringe on GW.

[@totallynottrademarked5279]

Uh, as someone that has worked for GW before they went to one man stores just no, just no. They moved from handspun pewter to plastic injection and damn near doubled the price just in my time there. There is no justification for the price they charge compared to other companies.

[@NumberOneGeek]

I say send your 3d print to one of your Patreons to submit to their local GW. I'd do it, but I swore never to set foot into one again.

[@LetsWoodDIY]

as an 3D Artsit i can tell you, use a higher res Model File, i got only an 2k Printer and with the proper file there are no Polygons visible!

[@pixelasm]

6:02 unfortunately due to the low poly density on the 3d model´s backpack domes one can easily tell that the left and the right model are 3d printed. You can see the problem here at 0:54 Other than that it is rather hard to tell and thus it is awesome to see how far 3d printing has come already :D

[@Mousedroid]

pretty much an easy giveaway.

[@MikeTheGamer77]

its easy to tell when you can see the polyfaces. Even on the printed models you can tell which are 3d-printed.

[@ItsMrDon]

could tell the difference in the close up with close inspection. however for sure irl i dont think 8k will look any different unless u dont clean it up well enough (u can stil see the print lines in the 4k and 8k)

[@returningwhisper]

Really impressive results. Can't imagine what we'll be seeing in a few more years.

[@MrNitrox91]

I'm teaching myself Blender so I can print myself a 100% custom WAAAGH! Orks as a concept are hilarious, but the GW-minnies are often lacking in their design. Sculpting orks in perticular really aint that chalenging. I've been at it a week, and I feel confident that I'll have my first boyz ready for printing before the end of Orktober. I'm thinking Blood Axes

[@Phantaminium667]

Did you suceed ?

[@jordancollins1270]

what stood out for me was the details being slightly different to others the GW model Backpack sits lower and has a wider scoop on the head compared to the rest

[@ctspoafarm]

Can we find an excuse to sue GW for putting a dude legally 3d printing figures INTO A 200,000$ DEBT THAT WILL EFECT HIM FOR THE REST OF HIS LIFE

[@jaychrist4437]

For people who actually can paint and care about the hobby aspect, GW always wins. Nothing beats injection molds.... Yet

[@sub39h]

Great video. Certain things on all 3D printed models are a dead give away though. I’ve not seen an stl so far where the backpack or the helmet look right.

[@BridgeTROLL777]

On the highend consumer 3d printers, i cant see any difference..Though those are quite pricey so if its only for miniatures its probably alot cheaper to just buy from GW..

[@andrearust5824]

2k, 4k, and 8k is sorta enigmatic... your actual detail level is going to be a combination of the resolution and screen size I think. What are the different micron sizes?

[@CrimsonSunBear]

whoever did the model didn't subdivide the spheres in the backpack enough

[@wetland3010]

8K printing beds are 4x size of earlier 2K beds, so they have the SAME printed resolution. You get to print more models on the larger 8K bed, but model resolution is the same as 2K.

[@paintfortauva]

Wut

[@tezcharold]

While GW pricing is high, that shouldn't justify stealing. But as pretty much anyone my age, I definetely downloaded many a video game/mp3/movie when I was young and couldn't afford much. I just wonder if it becomes too widespread it will impact the hobby. We are at the end of the day dependant on GW to design and release new models and rulesets.

[@KT-pv3kl]

what exactly was stolen here? GW does not own the name "space marine" nor their shape and design.

[@caragas9331]

i think it does considering the absurd amount of profit they make. They should give us a fair price.

[@tezcharold]

@@caragas9331 Any number of things make absurd amounts of profit, and I'm pretty sure you're not stealing from your local supermarket and apple store? And when you want a new car, do you go out and steal a ferrari?

[@calebjtv]

I would really like to see this same experiment with a higher quality STL and also printing with various resins, is 8k resin worth it? Does normal resin in an 8k printer compare to GW?

[@jedidls]

maybe don't try to sneak it into the window, rather, take the models in and say that you got them off ebay, and ask if you'd be allowed to play with them. Only official models allowed for play in store, so it could be a good test

[@ricktedder4749]

As you don't want to risk getting the guys in the store in trouble for being fooled by a print why not compromise, go ahead and choose a model you think will pass visual inspection once painted and ask them if in their opinion is it good enough to be in their window if they say yes they would then you have done what you set out to do, without any problems for anyone. The figure doesn't need to actually go in the window just be accepted as one they would put in the window. You get you're point across and they don't get fired, and yes I can see GW firing a store manager for putting a 3d copy of of their products in the display window, the last thing they want is Joe public to realise for an initial outlay of cash they can go on to print their own armies for a fraction of the GW prices, and in some cases the "proxy" models you can find online can and do outstrip the GW detail and quality levels, another point is once someone gets to grip with the 3d software the ability to chop and change/customise their miniatures is endless. Oops sorry for length of post GW tends to push my buttons.

[@Fomfonicus]

Using anycubic mono 4k for my primaris-sized chaos space marines, i scaled, mixed and kitbashed a lot of stuff... Never had such problem. Too bad im quite an amateur at painting. Anyway, i always use antialias on, and never had an problem with the "geometry" of the files, even on my old 2k models i had such thing. You should probably pray with more fervor to the machine spirit.

[@Doomguy-ut9nf]

Hey I've been looking for some chaos space marines STLS but having trouble finding any units. Can you help recommend where to find good quality ones?

[@Taematoe]

Paused at 5 seconds. Left 8k right 4k and middle GW. Layer lines on the backpack give it away. Ah I was close! the 4k and 8k where opposite.

[@BluSky1]

Thanks for this video and tips I was able to print out a batch of these guys. I dont mind buying them but I want to master my painting skills on resin prints to golden demon level before dropping the cash on the real figures so they have paint job I can be proud to display.

[@battlebrothersam]

Glad it was helpful!

[@MikeM-hf1qk]

Has anyone at Games Workshop ever heard of Hero Forge? Seriously, with the rise of 3d printing, not making a Hero Forge like system for Warhammer models is just leaving money on the table.

[@kypdurron6168]

you probably have to lower your layer hight. its eems quite high. for 10" 8k printer i would at least lower it to 30 microns if not 20. it will show much more. because the layerlines are very visible and you could hide it. and we didnt talk about AA yet

[@antongunther3977]

Are you using anti aliasing? That can help a bit with the polygons as it smooths things out a bit. It can be a pain to get your settings adjusted for it, but it can be worth it on printers with smaller pixel sizes.

[@noviceartisan]

Helps if you choose a decent model to start with, and use AA, you won't loose much detail with it even on low. That's what it's there for :)

[@christopherbonner4454]

I can tell you from personal experience, 3d printing is better. I will still buy a GW kit every now and then. When it comes to making armies though, 3d printing is definitely the way to go. It’s cheaper in the long run, and you will have better models.

[@dunka12]

hard to have a fair comparison, when the 3D models were not quite up to standard. Look at the polygons around the jetpack thrusters. That's not the fault of the printer. Those details can be fixed from the modelling side, to be more precise and accurate.

[@johnhanley5546]

From N.I.? - greetings from one Norn Irn guy to another!! Always enjoyable - keep going!

[@bradymarsden]

Hey im just researching 3d printers as i want to get in to printing mainly for warhammer what would be the ideal printer with a 600cad limit ?

[@alpharius8336]

if you want to have sooth like butter you need to sand them down a bit with sandpaper it removes those i belive printing lines?

[@r25012501]

Gotta,say using 8k has been mind blowing on detail

[@TrepidDestiny]

I have a bunch of 3D printed fire warriors. When mixed in with my GW fire warriors, you have to be LOOKING for the differences to spot them. At a glance from the table top, you'd never know. Hot take: my 3D printed Broadsides, Riptides, and Crisis suits look better than the GW versions. Full Stop.

[@kdhlkjhdlk]

Increasing the scale was silly - it just made 3d printing them easier.

[@TheAnthonyDunn]

I think the printing quality is pretty much there these days. I think 0.05mm is too large of a layer height as the lines are really clear. But with a lower layer height the print quality is great.The sculpt for the primaris marines is just awful, the trick with mislabeling them did not work at all. It's not so much a problem with the polygons, the sculpt is just so deeply. Especially the head. I'd love to see you review some more modern sculpts. I see this model printed all over the place, they're really easy to spot becasue imo it looks so so much worse than the gw one. It really puts me off printing knowing that this is the level of 3d model sculpt quality. .

[@antongunther3977]

For normal infantry or tanks I use 0.05 but for characters I do 0.03 or 0.02 (for a primarch). Layer lines aren't as noticeable on the table so 0.05 for 90% of people is fine. But yes, for display minis you want to go for something closer to 0.03 with AA on a printer with sub 30 um pixels. 100% agree with you on the sculpts though. I'm going through my 1tb of files to determine which files are too low poly.

[@filanfyretracker]

@@antongunther3977 geeze resin is insane resolution compared to FDM(or FFF as some prefer to call it), here I am happy when I set my Prusa MK3+ to .15.

[@PownzerX]

Nah. I think at most for your “secret plan” I’d bring in the trio of space marines and ask if you can display one, and if they happen to choose the 3D printed one double check and say something like “lemme actually check- oh that’s 3D printed, are you sure you want to do that?” Just so they don’t erroneously do something and get in trouble, doubly so to avoid popularizing copy cats in the printed Warhammer community (which is quite small and let’s be honest a bit impressionable) so we could have further issues with legitimate people getting thier painted minis banned from stores etc.

[@nathanielpullig932]

What are some things to look out for if I want to print Mechanicus?

[@tawesssoabbox]

It would be fun to see what someone could do with a "8k" model on a 8k printer... But i wonder if the stepping on round surfaces still would need to be taken care of.

[@battlebrothersam]

I've done a video on fulgrim which would be 8k model and the tyranid at the end of the video would be the same but that's next week's video

[@Antheraws]

​@@battlebrothersam that's what got me subbed. What's crazy was before you released that video that very day I was thinking I wonder what cool files are out there for Fulgrim and then KZbin read my mind and suggested your video.

[@BioClone]

you only need a sphere to make test such that.. everybody can model a sphere