More than a sniffly unfortunately :( but hopeful rehab will keep improving it~
@KezzadawG2 жыл бұрын
Both ring fingers can be a bit sniffly if I drag too much. Luckily I like getting the pinky involved as much as possible so it’s not too often.
@benja_mint2 жыл бұрын
Yep... Both middle fingers. I'm not allowed on the Moonboard right now :(
@LemonLimeFlavoured2 жыл бұрын
both ring fingers :/
@danschmidt51892 жыл бұрын
It is such a public service when climbers as good as you post videos of problems like this, which we're all able to try. Seeing you twist your way through these boulders, climbing very well and efficiently in a style that actually transfers off the board, is so much more valuable than seeing someone huck their way through. Thanks, Tom!
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Haha I feel like such a weak kitten when I try and emulate the heave ho pulling I see some people do. Got to employ all the tricks I can. Appreciate the kind words 🙏
@jn425412 жыл бұрын
oooo please do this for the moonboard 2016 set. id be super interested : )
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Sounds good to me!
@jonathanbreckheimer15062 жыл бұрын
That would be a rad video!
@jonathanbreckheimer15062 жыл бұрын
This is that good good moonboard content we've always been waiting for! Great video man and great to see someone as strong as you on the board we all know and love! (Fellow moonboard cultist here :p)
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Haha thanks. Im keen for some more time in the moonboard. I may be the cults newest recruit 😛
@JoeShowers2 жыл бұрын
Can we take a second to appreciate how glued to the kickboard your feet are!? Not one slip off those start feet... you've definitely got something going on in your feet!
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
It’s all in the shoes 😉…and extreme concentration
@pinchomaniac26432 жыл бұрын
This video has really got me psyched for a board session! Something I figured out wayyy too late is that the lower grades e.g V4, V5 and V8 are composed of two whole Font grades. It explained why the jump from V8-V9 always felt so massive 🙈. The brits consider both 7B and 7B+ to fall under V8.
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
I think there's a lovely sprinkling of sandbagging in there too, plus the system has just become it's own beast entirely.
@julien46992 жыл бұрын
Up an coming mainstream climbing channel. Keep it up, its awesome!
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Thank you. Keen to keep it going and having fun
@haywardab2 жыл бұрын
Moonboard and the Kilter board draw frequent comparisons - for obvious reasons - but for me it comes down to the moonboard always being a finger + power workout whereas the kilter holds seem to suit being able to isolate strength and power from being so finger intensive Love the video!
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Yep I’d say moonboard is a most bigger tax on fingers and kilter is the whole body power/strength.
@Ganooli2 жыл бұрын
Your on a roll with these video ideas. this video is super relatable i've always noticed how the easiest v8 benchmarks feel easier than the hardest 4's (at least on the 2016 a b and old school set)
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Yeah I find there can be such a big difference across them. Kind of funny when they are called ‘benchmark’
@hazboy10002 жыл бұрын
Love the organic-ness of your videos and this one doesn’t disappoint. Absolutely been loving your spray wall and moonboard sessions! Absolute treat!! Keep up the good work Tom!
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Thank you, I'm psyched you like them :)
@ag73955Ай бұрын
Super late comment but I really appreciate this type of content as well! It is sometimes hard to find examples of this level of quality climbing on the lower benchmarks, I love comparing my own attempts to yours!
@TomOHalloranAusАй бұрын
Ahh awesome, glad you enjoyed it. Better late than never. I'm keen to make more when I can :)
@boyinred342 жыл бұрын
Hell yea 2019 board is siiick. Its also wild seeing pros climb stuff that I've done or given attempts at and showing just how good it can look when climbed really well
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Haha wouldn’t consider myself a pro, but thank you 😀🙏
@finlayc1212 жыл бұрын
This is such a great video idea! Great info here as someone getting more stuck into moon boarding
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Glad you liked it. Enjoy the dive into the moonboard world. its a deep one haha
@joolsgrommers14662 жыл бұрын
Great video! It's so hard to get across how difficult Moonboard can be. Glad you feel the same. I look at the problems and go: ok, straight forward enough, then pull on and get shut down.. Glad I finally did my first V6 on it now, need to get better at those high feet though, I'm 1.88m and sometimes there's a lot of me for those small boxes.....
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Haha yeah there’s a few small boxes to moosh into. Nice one getting the V6 done! They are not easy!!
@Gamedute2 жыл бұрын
FYI - KoalaClimbing is a dude from South Korea (if i am not mistaking a gym owner aswell) He sometimes climbs together with HoseokLee - a (famous) Korea boulderer who got to double digit V grade super fast and trained mostly on the moonboard
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Ahhh cool thanks. They moon board strong in Korea. I wonder what the koala connection is then?
@ianbrannan960810 ай бұрын
he owns a gym called koala, hoseok is a friend of ours yeah. It is called that bc we always told chaeyeon (@koalaclimbing) that he looked like a koala
@mtc75982 жыл бұрын
Since you are pretty strong and not having any problems with V3 problems on the Moonboard you might not know, but Maple is the least repeated simply because it is a new V3 benchmark! So not sure if you can compare this with the most repeated. And the benchmarks for me are super different in terms of difficulty. Actually the "Warm-Up Problem", the most repeated V3 is not doable for me (move to the right, black hold) while some of the least repeated routes were doable for me. Nice video!
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Hey, yeah I figured I'd be running into the new ones through that method, rather than the hardest. Good luck getting Warm up done!
@pickrs012 жыл бұрын
would love to see this done on the 2016 set
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
It’ll happen for sure!
@jeanpaulooopsn59762 жыл бұрын
Same
@alexantone55322 жыл бұрын
@@TomOHalloranAus I’d also love this for the 2017 set
@kockarthur7976 Жыл бұрын
@@TomOHalloranAus I also vote for this to be done on the 2016 set, the OG set 😃
@liam10092 жыл бұрын
Such an awesome vid if you’re doing the 2016 moonboard may as well do the 2017 as well would be keen to see both
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
I’ll make it happen 👍
@samlfarrar2 жыл бұрын
Awesome video Tom, wish there was a moonboard closer to me
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
They are pretty fun!
@ronangreene16342 жыл бұрын
love this video format! if you are still wondering who KoalaClimbing is, he is the owner of a climbing gym here in Korea called Koala Climbing
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Haha yeah, the Korean Climbing Koala! Who's a moonboard weapon as well
@ianbrannan960810 ай бұрын
ronan come back to korea brother
@Landolini2 жыл бұрын
Also Im looking forward to the second episode :D
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
It will happen 😀
@Landolini2 жыл бұрын
Very cool video! Atm Im just getting into moonboarding so this was very interessting. Would be cool to see the differences between the sets.
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Awesome. The moonboard journey is a good one! Very keen to make more vids with the other sets when I get the chance
@tomhodges72272 жыл бұрын
Awesome session man! I have a moonboard in the backyard since all these lockdowns and I've never had a finger injury on it. Though I am projecting the V5 benchmarks so maybe that's why :) I also think that there is a bit of negative talk about the moonboard being super jumpy but you used so much tension and really only jumped once I think. Kris Hampton should have a watch of this video!
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
You may be one of the ones clever enough to listen to your body (fingers) and not mince down on a weird stacked 2.5 finger crimp. Keep up the good work haha
@pert43612 жыл бұрын
Shed board gym? Sign me up!!
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Haha totally!! How sick would that be!!
@alloutgod20662 жыл бұрын
You’re videos are so underrated
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Haha thanks. Having fun making them!
@alloutgod20662 жыл бұрын
@@TomOHalloranAus any tips for elbow tendinitis recovery besides just resting? Also you’re going to blow up soon just keep up the consistency and top tier videos!! 😁
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Arm aid!! It made a major difference to mine. However there’s a ton of reasons it can kick off, so this may only fix what I had. Find a good Physio, they will be your best bet for a proper diagnosis and rehab
@richardbradley15322 жыл бұрын
Excellent video
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Thank you 🙏
@flanfl75562 жыл бұрын
Damn the body tention you showed is inspiring! I feel like I have to cut feet all the time (which I'm terrible at) but it seems you can get super far with weighting your feet properly and using your core. I just need to it to be world class level XD
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Yep, body tension is super useful, especially when your fingers are as weak as mine. I’m relatively weak on the fingerboard
@flanfl75562 жыл бұрын
@@TomOHalloranAus I hope to be as weak as you one of these day :D
@alloutgod20662 жыл бұрын
I can’t even do a climb on the moonboard yet and here I am watching Tom like 🌚 🌝
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Haha I can’t do 93% of the stuff I watch on KZbin
@michaellauer16612 жыл бұрын
more moonboard, please :)
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
For sure
@RealWorldClimbing2 жыл бұрын
Yes, Shed full of boards and the millions of [insert monetary denomination] that it would take to purchase :D
@gavinportier78382 жыл бұрын
Doesn’t Cujes live nearby? 😉😂
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
He lives a 2 minute walk away. It’s a dreamy set up 😍
@devinharmon6402 Жыл бұрын
Great vid!
@TomOHalloranAus Жыл бұрын
Cheers. Psyched you liked it :)
@MythAvatar2 жыл бұрын
Enjoyed the format of the video! Swapping between talking after the climbing to a cut away of you talking seemed good; Watching someone talk seems to be better than a voice over, by a lot. The fact that this cut away was outside meant it was was pleasant to look at, which probably helped too. My take away is try to avoid voiceovers because they feel disconnected. Don't be afraid to film with other people in the video, having the comradery in videos has definitely helped other climbing channels. I liked the idea of the video a bunch, as you're strong enough and experienced enough to climb almost all of the grades quickly & give a decent opinion on the grades. Unsurprising results, but that doesn't dampen the video in anyway. Look forward to more content, perhaps some videos of you and friends demolishing climbs at the local gym or crag? idk. GL!
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the idess
@TheTMschannel2 жыл бұрын
This made me want to moonboard in tomorrows session
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Haha awesome. I’m psyched to hear that 😀
@kylemrohs9870 Жыл бұрын
Great video. But it has to be said that the benchmark problems, as ranked by number of repeats, also reflect the time as a benchmark. The ones with the most repeats have been around since 2019, and the more recent ones only have a few repeats because they reached like 50-100 repeats and then were deemed benchmarks via algorithm or consensus. So it is some type criteria to say best/worst or hardest/softest as determined by repeat count, but more likely it’s just reflection of how long it’s been an established problem. Thank you for the hard work and commentary.
@TomOHalloranAus Жыл бұрын
Yeah totally not a perfect system for the exact reason you mentioned. I wonder if there’s a better way to find out. Maybe we can get in contact with Mr Moon haha
@KevinRGorham2 жыл бұрын
The Woods board is insane. It is definitely the next level of board training.
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
I can't wait to see one! You have?
@KevinRGorham2 жыл бұрын
@@TomOHalloranAus ya, the prototype is at my home gym in Las Vegas. It's going to be good at so many things. So much thought put into every hold.
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Ahhhh wowsers. That’s rad!! Very jealous haha
@KevinRGorham2 жыл бұрын
@@TomOHalloranAus if you ever find yourself out in Vegas check out The Pad Henderson. So much great climbing outside but the gym is a lot of fun in betweens sessions or uf it gets too hot outside.
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
a vegas trip is high on the list. I'll be sure to check it out if/when i get there! cheers
@flip_lange2 жыл бұрын
Only at the first part of the video, so I don't know if pu're actually going to talk about it, but one thing I would like to mention is, how new the problems are. Maple got benchmarked not too long ago, which is why it doesn't have many repeats. It's not super easy, but I would argue that there are a couple ones which are a lot harder ;) (Ben Moon's custard Speedtalk for example). Same for the V4s (try t-rex which ist probably harder than some of the V6s depending on how glassy the black piches are). Oh, and Koala climbing is I think Korean and the name comes from his(?) climbing gym.
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Yep the repeats is not the most scientific way of approaching it, but we had to start somewhere. It will always be hard to work out what is actually ‘the hardest’ one. I’ll for sure check out some of the ones you mentioned though!
@flip_lange2 жыл бұрын
@@TomOHalloranAus no worries! Really liked the video (and all of your content actually). But damn you’re strong!!
@lachlanbatty56022 жыл бұрын
top vid tom!
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Thanks 🙏
@paulgennaro20012 жыл бұрын
Would love for you to compare moonboard climbing to outdoor in terms of the physical limits and not technical. I know v10 and 11 outdoor climbers who max out at v8 on the moon who send double digits outside. I find this really interesting. You also have pro climbers who probably go through the same thing. The board is thought to be this awesome power and strength training tool for outdoor climbing. But many argue, in my circle at least, it's just too jumpy (i.e. 2017 board for example), and the tension board is much better for outdoor endeavors.
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
I think the moonboard, in terms of style, is not super comparable to outdoors. The energy systems sure, but the climbing style is so different. I haven’t struck many boulders/routes which climb like a moonboard problem. It is very fun though and that’s worth something. There are certainly some hard ones for the grade too. I’d say in average it must be out by a grade? Though I heard Ben moon talk about the grading once and said it’s just moonboard grades. There’s no correlation to outdoor grades
@joshkaufman45322 жыл бұрын
koalaclimbing is korean i believe, he's friends with hoseok (unless im mistaken)
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Ahhh cool. Thanks
@Carlosallouchimontero2 жыл бұрын
Koala Climbing is the gym Hoseok climbs at
@joshkaufman45322 жыл бұрын
@@Carlosallouchimontero yup and its also the mb username of his friend
@user-jm8kw7vl9s2 жыл бұрын
Great content. Tyty
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Thank you!
@bongosock2 жыл бұрын
It seems like finger strength training is done purely with static loading - often shock static loading - mimicking the use-case for fingers in climbing. And perhaps this is the best way to train the forearm muscles, but I'm not sure it's the best way to train the finger tendons and ligaments. I've often thought that dynamic loading through a range of movement would do a better - and safer - job of training the tendons and ligaments of the fingers: less static shock loading, and the movement would keep the structures involved better lubricated and oxygenated. What do you think?
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
To be honest, I have no idea. Getting into the weeds of the science is not my cup of tea. As much as I find it fascinating to read and disgust, it’s all a bit too theoretical. I like a dose of fingerboarding and board climbing to keep my fingers progressing and have never felt like I’m missing out
@bongosock2 жыл бұрын
@@TomOHalloranAus Hard to argue with the results you're getting ;)
@matthewking48832 жыл бұрын
From my understanding heavy slow isometric (static) loads like hangboarding tend to promote a more compliant tendon/pulley system which could be considered healthier, but less effective at producing force rapidly or what some people know of as contact strength. Plyometric type workouts like campusing or moonboarding tend to create a stiffer tendon/pully that allows faster force production (contact strength) but also increases the likelihood of tears. Depending on your level of climbing and other factors like how injury prone are you, a mix of the two would generally be pretty good to balance out having decent contact strength vs not getting injured. That's my understanding anyway, feel free to correct me.
@bongosock2 жыл бұрын
@@matthewking4883 Back when I was training, I used to try and figure out an effective way for me to do something like "finger tip curls" so that I was strength training across the full range of motion of the fingers. (something better than guitar grip trainers). I speculated that this range of motion exercise would reduce repetitive loads on just one part of the ligament/tendon system, and keep the system better lubricated/oxygenated. What do you think?
@matthewking48832 жыл бұрын
I'm sure it would have a bit of an effect but I wouldn't make it a large part of my training due to the lack of specificity to climbing. Seeing as slow isometric can already promote tendon health I think training a few different grip types would be a good way to not 'over' load one position.
@alexandereckinger501 Жыл бұрын
You should do a flexibility video, your footwork looks so fluid and mobile. I’d be keen on hearing your thoughts on the subject. good stuff, I’m a big fan keep it up 🙃
@TomOHalloranAus Жыл бұрын
Definitely on the 'videos to make' list. psyched you're enjoying the video :)
@212JT Жыл бұрын
Hi Tom, very informative video and useful beta as well! Curious, do you by chance know what your ape index is?
@TomOHalloranAus Жыл бұрын
I think I’m around +10cm
@tobiaslueck94 Жыл бұрын
nice! btw your i17 hold is off - it should be rotated like 30° clockwise
@TomOHalloranAus Жыл бұрын
there's a couple holds on that board that aren't right. need to be tweaked. good eye
@brettpurchase10952 жыл бұрын
Maple was the first problem I did. Felt hard
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
nice one to open the account with
@gregoryfarmer21892 жыл бұрын
Awesome video! Great so see some perspective given on the grading! Out of interest, had you done some of these before the video in your own training ?
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Hadn’t done any of these before, all totally new. I’ve done very little on the Moonboard actually. Keen for more
@MrAnakin88882 жыл бұрын
Unless I'm mistaken, I think koala climbing is a gym in Korea with a couple avid moon boarders
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Koala board crew!
@carloghezzi28372 жыл бұрын
Nice video :) The Moonboard is also good for training the resistence, 20/25 moves is ok imho.
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Yep for sure. I was doing a lot of endurance work on it prior to the Olympics.
@ianbrannan960810 ай бұрын
koala climbing is a gym in south korea. Its called that because we always told the owner @koalachaeyeon that he looked like a koala xD
@TomOHalloranAus9 ай бұрын
Haha great little insight. Cheers.
@nicholasmarshall57752 жыл бұрын
Great video, thanks! Quick q; do you have any tips or thoughts on how to improve core tension? I thought that really stood out in how you moved on the board
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
TRX stuff is great, where you are holding the load/tension between upper limb and lower limb. It’s also as simple as consciously practicing it
@hamishlivo2 жыл бұрын
Since they release new problems over time, there's a chance that less climbed problems aren't necessarily harder, but just new. Still, even the "sort by easy" function is flawed since it relies on people changing the grade when they log it, and some may not. So, it's tricky. Nice content though 🙂
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Yep, it’s an imperfect system. Glad you liked it though 😀
@arpadzsigmond23762 жыл бұрын
Strong dude!!
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Thanks 🙏
@terrybar48022 жыл бұрын
I personally find the 'cutlooseornot' to be hardest 6a+ benchmark, because of one far move losing my feet. I flashed almost all of the rest of 6a+ benchmarks. But I can't finish this one, and it's really annoying, since its only a matter of my height...
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
I'll have to check it out. The dreaded cutloose is a killer. Good luck knocking it off.
@longb1913 Жыл бұрын
i notice u full crimp alot, or just wrap your thumbs around the hold when climbing these problems. do you have particular weaknesses with open hand or is this just preference?
@TomOHalloranAus Жыл бұрын
Full crimp is definitely stronger than open for me, but open is not terrible. I’ll generally opt of full crimp whenever it counts
@UFOpricey2 жыл бұрын
"so I decided to just give it a bit of a rest"... *moves onto v12*
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
haha I'm not sure I can stand by my own logic here
@n1kos5702 жыл бұрын
Flo Wientjes sets at my local Gym. Hes so strong. If i remember correctly he set the only V13 Benchmark
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Rad! I’ve looked at the 13 but not tried it yet. Looks good!
@Maniac458642 жыл бұрын
Do you prefer the moon board over a spray wall? I heard Adam Ondra say he prefers a spray wall because it still allows you to use and learn how to use bigger footholds. I think he said he doesn’t hang board or moonboard often compared to just the spray wall.
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
I’m totally the same as Adam in that regard. Love the versatility of the spray wall. Also I haven’t fingerboarded in ages and my fingers are as strong as ever. Moonboard is fun though
@Maniac458642 жыл бұрын
@@TomOHalloranAus interesting you haven't fingerboarded in a long time. Do you feel there is a place for it in training. What portion of your training is on the spray wall? Do you have a video talking about what different training days are like for you?
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
@@Maniac45864 There is 100% a place for it in training. I've had a big stints of fingerboarding in the past. However board climbing with direction can do fairly good job of making your fingers strong too. It's defeinitly something I want to talk about in a video :)
@DontFaultTheUnderdog2 жыл бұрын
I find the holds on the moon board pretty aggressive much prefer the kilter board in that respect but the vicious crimpy style of the MB is certainly a lot more applicable to uk bouldering . how do you compare the two for climbing in AUS?
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Kilterboard is probably closer to Aust bouldering I think. Though I haven’t got a ton of experience of bouldering in Aust. Moonboard is certainly a particular style
@J_punkt_O_punkt2 жыл бұрын
Another great Video. Safe some good video ideas for when you have 100 000 subscribes!
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Haha thanks. There’s a back catalogue of ideas simmering away for me. Though just in case I run out, make sure you spread the word about the channel 😛
@donovandownes50642 жыл бұрын
could the number of repeats be influenced by how recently a problem was added as a benchmark?
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Yep, that’s 100% likely
@Adumbfartzarano2 жыл бұрын
Cool vid. How about someone chooses different climbs and you have to guess which has more repeats
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Haha that’d be fun!
@dingleberry102 жыл бұрын
you earned my sub :)
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Haha thanks 😀
@codyheiner36362 жыл бұрын
This Nick Wedge guy seems to be setting a lot of the lowest-repeat climbs haha. Also wonder if there's a recency element to it though - more recently set problems will naturally have fewer repeats
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Some nice stout ones in there for sure. Yep, recency to being benchmarked will play a roll in repeats for sure. Not the most scientific approach, but a place to start. Suggestions welcome 😀
@codyheiner36362 жыл бұрын
@@TomOHalloranAus a cool approach would be to mathematically model average number of repeats as a function of time since set, and then find the problems that deviate most drastically from the expected number of repeats based on their age. There are other factors too though, I think it's definitely fair to say that some problems are more "fun" than others, and so even with all other variables fixed, a more "fun" problem will have more repeats.
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
@@codyheiner3636 absolutely
@TheRoarbit2 жыл бұрын
Hey Tom, how much did you end up putting into the 2016 set timewise? I saw you way back in a moonpig tournament with the gwood crew boys from Adelaide, but never saw your name on much else from the 2016 set!
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Very very little. I’d guess less than 5 total. I’ve really not spent much time moonboarding at all! That moonpig session was awesome. Perhaps need to make it happen again!
@Fred-oz3tw2 жыл бұрын
What is that chilly music playing here?
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Below Horizon - Luwakas Out of State - Dylan Sitts Sidney - Luwakas
@Fred-oz3tw2 жыл бұрын
@@TomOHalloranAus thank you!!
@jeanpaulooopsn59762 жыл бұрын
Sadly this is not on the 2016 Set:(
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Thankfully that will happen :)
@Silver-hi9xg Жыл бұрын
I think 9x 17y is placed at the wrong angle at 8:42
@TomOHalloranAus Жыл бұрын
I’ll do some checking. Cheers for the heads up
@citationXLS_driver2 жыл бұрын
Gebrochener Knieboogie is german and translates to - the broken knee boogie
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Haha classic name!
@schluppvomgrunenstern73942 жыл бұрын
Nice vid and strong. Just FYI "Gebrochener Knieboogie" is German and it means broken knee boogie. 😉
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Haha rad name! I like the boulder even more now
@schluppvomgrunenstern73942 жыл бұрын
@@TomOHalloranAus I can imagine. Some boulder or routes are much better, when the name is funny or weird.
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Totally!
@Petitgaaateau2 жыл бұрын
Your approach to determining the easiest to hardest benchmark per grade is fairly close to being accurate. Benchmarks are added over time, so Maple for example is a new addition to the board and will naturally have less sends. You’re going to want to look at when the climb is set compared to sends. Past is the hardest 6A+ benchmark if you use this approach. Yes. I’m a Moonboard nerd. Sigh.
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Sweet. I’ll have to check that one out. Would you say this would be a more reliable approach on the 2016 set?
@Petitgaaateau2 жыл бұрын
@@TomOHalloranAus for sure! 2016 is close to peak benchmark saturation.
@lifeguy30002 жыл бұрын
how tall are you?
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
181cm
@johancr16197 ай бұрын
gg
@cdd1craig Жыл бұрын
2017 is the worst grading consistency. Some hard 7c's among the 7a+
@TomOHalloranAus Жыл бұрын
Haha isn't that most of the moonboard grading though? Yes that one seemed to have the biggest reputation for things not going well across several fronts.
@oldi6btm6t9d42 жыл бұрын
How do you feel about full crimping while training? It seems like you full crimp a lot more than other pros. I find that I can pull a lot harder while full crimping, but try to avoid because it is uncomfortable.
@TomOHalloranAus2 жыл бұрын
Crimping is definitely my strongest grip. Though I’ll actually try to avoid it as much as possible when ‘training’ to try and bring up my open/chisel grip. But when it comes to ‘performing,’ the shackles are off and anything goes.
@EggPunch2003 Жыл бұрын
how the fuck do you keep your feet on for everything. Crazy body tension
@TomOHalloranAus Жыл бұрын
Haha because if my feet come off, so do it. I do like keeping tension on moves. I'd be keen to make a video on how to keep tension at some point soon. New home woody should be built soon so I can make that happen :)