Complete 3D Printed Fishing Lure Design Course - The New Hotness

[@fredsfinecreations4523]

A good call to do is use some silica gel as a rattle. The bb is introducing to much movement in your bait. Also, with the silica pellet, while it still rattles reasonably well, you'll have the benefit of knowing if your lure is taking on water later once you've got it painted 👍

[@WMBayouLures]

Cool I have some I will use on the next one I put together, thanks!

[@roeljonker]

Nice video course! 👌🏻 I think the body’s will print just fine with the nose direct on the build plate. Just make sure you place the lines for the cavity cuts at an angle so it’s not parallel to the build plate. When I design my softlures I always make a print of the lure itself before printing a mould. And I mostly can print them with the nose direct on the build plate (depending on the design offcourse). By the way: I think your video’s should have way more views then they have….. I guess there aren’t that many people designing and printing their own lures. Keep up the good work 👊🏻

[@WMBayouLures]

Thanks for the compliment! Yeah it’s a pretty small group of us but growing!

[@erikharring7928]

Maybe I missed when you did it but if you put the supported printed things in warm water its easier to remove the supports with no traces left on the print, some people use hair dryers also since you get no toxic water out of it. Also really cool vid!

[@WMBayouLures]

Thanks I have started hitting them with my heat gun and you are correct it works really well!

[@manuelcastrou79]

Simple amazing tutorial! Thanks a lot!

[@WMBayouLures]

Thank you! So glad it helped!

[@johnhammond6225]

I did this to the second lure I made, after the gaps in the first... All I did was mirror my old model fuse the halves, and instead of the eye I just cut a bb sized hole in the bb compartment and also printed the cutout plug. Wasn't bad, but still had to epoxy the side to keep it smooth. Gonna try the eyeball technique.

[@WMBayouLures]

Yeah that is a way to do it as well. I just went with this technique because you have a larger hole to put stuff in the lure. Mostly because I am not that good at planning 😆 If you already know what you want to put inside just make the hole big enough for it. Thanks for watching and sharing!

[@johnhammond6225]

@@WMBayouLures I like your method. Seems better thought out than me just plugging a hole in the side. Do you epoxy the new age model after, or just paint and go?

[@WMBayouLures]

@@johnhammond6225 I am not that great at painting and finishing but what a do now is clear coat (currently krypton crystal clear but any crystal clear will do) then paint, then a UV clear coat. That’s seems to be working really well so far. You can paint the resin directly but I get way better adhesion if I do a base clear coat first. I use the rattle can clear because it is faster but a base UV clear would work as well.

[@johnhammond6225]

@@WMBayouLures makes sense. I'm a crystal clear user as well. I have been matte black rattle canning the resin, then paint, then crystal clear. I started making soft plastic molds and can't believe how well they work vs the metal molds that cost 10-20x more. Thanks for the video! Liked and sub'd.

[@WMBayouLures]

@@johnhammond6225 yep I started with molds, I have a bunch of videos on them as well. Thanks for the sub!

[@4reelfishing23]

Great video man!! What resin printer do u use?

[@WMBayouLures]

I have an Epax E10 and Voxelab proxima for resin and a Bambu lab P1P FDM printer

[@klboutdoors9644]

What size are the screw eyes 1.43

[@klboutdoors9644]

I’m having a issue with rounding the nose and tail when time I do it the caves in. on the pilot hole do you have any suggestions?

[@WMBayouLures]

Round them off 1st then make the pilot hole