Complete 532nm Green Ebay Laser Pointer Teardown + Optical Mod Q&A

[@Zenodilodon]

Questions on problems have been thoroughly discussed in the comments covering, dimming and unstable laser pointers. Let me remind you these are cheap for a reason and you get what you pay for.

[@danielrushing4600]

I know, but I’m wondering how many cheap lasers I will have time to pay for. Most of my lasers I have fixed myself by your guidance, it’s funny how much a tiny spring or two will affect the laser, I have to guess where they go and that’s why I would love to have illustration of my 26 or So lasers in individual component placement.

[@Zenodilodon]

@@danielrushing4600 Yeah the parts can be quite sensitive. There are simply so may types/designs of lasers so making diagrams for them all would be quite difficult. I try to show concepts and function above everything else so that way it's far easier to know what things do and where they go along with possible modifications that can be thought of. The other thing is that for the most part i build my own pointers which I have done for years. Because of this I don't see many pointers made by companies or other people.

[@idavidbadger9657]

what is that lens called that is on the diode

[@Zenodilodon]

@@idavidbadger9657 It's a lens or set of lenses with a positive power overall. It's normally called the pump focusing lens in many diagrams but I have heard it also called a condensing lens in a laser optical train since it often is used to make a small spot. Not much special to it, maybe an AR coating for NIR but it's just a small bi-convex lens.

[@idavidbadger9657]

@@Zenodilodon much appreciated brother and great vids enjoy watching. keep up the great work and honorable enlightening to viewers

[@Erin-tj4bc]

Finally a guy that makes real videos I actually need, and looks and sounds like a cool dude. Thanks for the video man.

[@chaochou6821]

Thank you so much for this wonderfully instructive and educational video, probably one of the best laser disassembly tutorial I’ve come across on KZbin and trust, I’ve wasted so much time and a couple unfortunate laser pointers hoping to find a good way to mod a proper burning laser and voila, finally came across your video. Lovely detailed yet succinct, I hope more people give you due recognition for this wonderful contribution.

[@Zenodilodon]

I am aiming to be one of the best channels on YT for laser/optical related technology. I want to help and inspire others interested in this type of technology. Thanks for the comment!

[@danielrushing4600]

Thank you for letting me do this. I love lasers! I am 70. This is new technology for me and I have misplaced a washer or 7 on some of my lasers. Would you please either send or show me how they go back together. Thank you, you’re an angel!

[@Zenodilodon]

What type of lasers are you trying to repair? Lasers are something you tend to love for life. I am 34 and don't ever see being bored of laser stuff! The whole field of photonics is HUGE!

[@alone_again523]

Sənin ölən vaxtındiye ala

[@darkracer1252]

15:08 you also cleary see this reflective arc on your hands. (wich is actually on the camera lens) this would otherwise be your eye while not blinking

[@LorenzoTell]

best intro ever dudeeee. Pretty original, im in in this channel

[@tetraederzufrequenz]

Nice job. Excellent experimentation and good explanation. Thank you to show how it work.

[@Zenodilodon]

Thank You!

[@FPV777]

Wow So many information ans practical tips!!! And it's not on first place on yt search results. Very useful dude thanks 👍👍👍

[@Zenodilodon]

I don't aim to be the first result, I iam to be the best result!. Thanks for the comment and glad you found the video helpful.

[@RobinDev007]

BRUH..SUBSCRIBED RIGHTAWAY! I Love your videos...I have recently started working with lasers. Bought one 1.6w blue laser and 2 HY Laser 303s. Learned so many things from this video...Thank you

[@Zenodilodon]

Pretty soon you'll be making your own lasers it looks like!

[@GG-ec5eg]

good video you explain it all very well but just curious what amount of power was used while doing all these tests?

[@Zenodilodon]

Every laser in the video was the cheapest bottom of the barrel Ebay laser you could get. None where pot modded but the optical arrangements have been changed for demonstrative purposes. If you are speaking of input voltage the drivers are designed to run from 3.2v to 5v.

[@AWESOME295]

On eBay many people sell 990 miles laser,990 miles is 1500km , really can reach that far? please answer guys'''''''

[@Zenodilodon]

The laser light will continue unless obstructed by an object or dense fog/smoke,etc. The output will significantly diverge but yes, you will get photons to go that far. Seeing them is a whole hurdle in of itself at that point.

[@avonfonds2567]

Your video is great it answered a lot of my questions thanks a lot

[@robertchapman8025]

amazing work for laser lovers.

[@StephanieLondon]

Great information and tutorial. I have a cheapy eBay green laser that the lens fell down loose inside the housing and the brass inner housing will not come out, even though it has threads. Any ideas on that?

[@Zenodilodon]

I would have to see which laser style you have and what lens is incorrectly positioned, is the laser like the one on this video?

[@StephanieLondon]

I got the Laser pointer apart. Wondering what lens it is you add in your video.

[@Zenodilodon]

Any lens from a Red, Blue, or Violet laser is what I used for the IR modification, You will need to make an adapter to hold it if you don't have one handy.

[@parveen2263]

@@Zenodilodon my fingers starting burning when I opened the diode, what can I do please my skin is peeling off now

[@cbfull]

Have you considered replacing the 500mW 808nm diode with a stronger diode? I’m considering doing this with either a c-mount 1W or a windowless 9mm 1W diode but I was hoping you had some experience with this.

[@Gianns_TDM]

Thanks for the vid man keep making amazing content subbed

[@lokibork1035]

Great video, also where can I buy an expanding lens

[@ryukireii]

My pointer is having button problems, is it advisable to replace the small button?

[@Zenodilodon]

The lasers are often quite hard to take apart, esp for novices and those without a whole box of tools. I would try cleaning it with something like rubbing alcohol and letting it completely dry or trying Deoxit. It may be a pain but often simply replacing a cheap laser is a better option for those who just want a working laser.

[@ryukireii]

@@Zenodilodon I appreciate the advise. Its been awhile since I came across to a channel that actually responds to the community, for that I must Sub you. You deserve more supporters Have a great day :>

[@Zenodilodon]

@@ryukireii I know the feeling, I like that my channel is still small because I can address questions better. I really promote the asking of questions as it's often the first step to learning.

[@parveen2263]

@@Zenodilodon how do I repair the laser if it dosent turn on

[@hangman432]

Thank you for this very explicit video. I have a question for you : I have a blue laser pointer 450nm almost new , the laser beam is very weak, barely seen in the dark room despite a new battery ,no falls,not misused. Can you help me identifying the problem. Thank you.

[@Zenodilodon]

Sounds like a bad laser diode. Is your laser focusable?

[@hangman432]

@@Zenodilodon Thank you again for your reply. The pointer is not focusable.

[@Zenodilodon]

@@hangman432 If you can get a lens to expand the beam you can take a look at the quality of the light. It should be a rectangle that is solidly filled. If it's more circular and rough and or contains dark areas than this is a sign of catastrophic optical damage. Depending on the wattage of the laser the diode can be replaced pretty easily if that is the problem. Try inspecting the beam for defects and let me know what you see.

[@silentghost82]

Mine is weak too problem is the lense magnifier is loose inside got unglued or something. I Don't know how to open it

[@mmcda2player97]

Bro i just broke the expanding lens which is just placed after the crystal and its out of focus now, do you any suggestions how can i make its focus right to get a parallel beam of light as before

[@omsingharjit]

I also have some mysterious problem with my green 303 laser that's , when i press the switch it work normally with high brightness but after 2 or 3 sec its brightness goes half even if battery is full charged and some time it work normally continuously ( without being deem light ) until i not open the switch ? ( It consuming same power in both condition - 500mw @3.7 V ) So what is the problem ? * Is its L diode half dead ? *Or something wrong with its controlling circuit ? ( In circuit there is lm358 opamp , Y1 smd , 431 sot 23 , no pot ) ?

[@Zenodilodon]

This sounds like you have a bad crystal set, KTP normally operates best at a certain temperature to ensure there is proper phase matching for the doubling process, in most laser heads this is compensated for with a TEC and closed loop feedback. There is also an issue on some of the laser diodes mostly effecting IR and Red where if the junction heats up it will fall out of proper lasing due to thermal expansion. This is also something that laser heads compensate for in the same manor. You can adjust the current/add a pot on the board, to learn how to do this check my CD/DVD Bare&Basic video where I show how to modify the drivers for use with CD and DVD laser diodes. Output drift is common in DPSS laser pointers due to lack of temperature control.

[@omsingharjit]

@@Zenodilodon you may be right about Temp dependent x Harmonic crystal but i am observing this effect with in second , when it was new there was no problem but after few days this dimming issue was observed to me. May be the problem is with circuit or diode itself. As you said . about ir diode issue , i also think this could be the case.. i tried to see if this issue with its bare IR Diode but its intensity was so bright for cam to notice dimming issue ... Plz share me its circuit ( one with lm358 opamp ) Thznks

[@Zenodilodon]

@@omsingharjit The modification for the circuit is on the DVD/CD video, If it's a new problem it's most likely the pump diode. You can view the output of the pump diode without a lens on it to check for dark bars in the output if it's failing but that requires full disassembly. The truth on this is no matter what you try to do for these simply buying another one is often cheaper. For pointers direct diode is a much more stable and efficient option since it doesn't have temp issues. That's part of why I tend to use DPSS style in full laser heads only. My CNI yellow behaves similar and takes quite a few seconds to stabilize, this is the nature of the technology. The green lasers from china also often push their pumps for use with AAA 1.5v/3v and sometimes this makes them prone to either running very well at 3.7-4.2v but also can overdrive the pump. This kind of stuff is tricky and learning about it will most likely result in the death of a few lasers. If you are looking for a good 532nm I would look at getting a 100mw+ module and turning it down 80% or more for long life.

[@thevoidedwarranty]

I wear glasses now because as a kid i used to play with laser outta cd & dvd burners, for hours , days , weeks , without eye protection . True story

[@Zenodilodon]

Interesting, the CD/DVD lasers don't really have the properties to change your lens shape that I know if. Did you end up getting blind spots and just needing a larger image to compensate?

[@thevoidedwarranty]

@@Zenodilodon i dont really know what type of glasses are these but i also have astigmatism as my parents . Emphesis on cd & dvd writer lasers ,which are higher output that reader diodes .

[@Zenodilodon]

@@thevoidedwarranty It's most likely genetics alone. I have worked with lasers well beyond writer powers, up to 30,000mW compared to 300mW for years professionally. Because the show lasers are RGB there really aren't good goggles to use so I have to always be cautious.The vision damage I have is from a 90mW violet laser. It's the blue-UV that scare the crap out of me the most. Those are most easily absorbed and can cause more damage per power, this along with anything 405nm and under being a legit cancer risk. Seems as one of the forum members got a small case of skin cancer on the hand from 405nm. Scary stuff!!!

[@thevoidedwarranty]

@@Zenodilodon wow thats crazy ! My theory is , because i was a kid and didnt know about IR, i used to stare very closly at the diode to see if its working or not and that might have had an effect on my cornia thining it like a lasic might have done . I donno thou ,i have literally no info on topic but i started to loose 10/10 vision in a couple of months . nowdays i shy away from working laser because where i live ebay and amazon or other webshop service are non existant so i cant really buy quality eye wear .anyways , i enjoy yourvideos , u seem like a true maker , like we do it here , without any fancy parts or tools .u make stuff just because u want to make stuff and see what happens & thats true science .

[@alexbitter9147]

Thank you for your video, it helped me a lot. I found my green laser pointer had battery leakage, and I had to take it apart to clean it properly. Now I'm trying to check if it's working properly, and I'd like to ask you, how did you attach the wires to close the circuit?

[@Zenodilodon]

Positive connects to the outer brass hose of the laser diode a wire can be soldered directly to the same pad the case pin is. Note that some newer greens have a cheap flat package laser diode and those you will have to trace the connection for + which is pretty easy with close visual inspection. The negative is the spring, a wire can be soldered to the side of the switch closest to the switch to use the switch or soldered on the side closer to the laser diode to bypass the switch needing to be turned on.

[@alexbitter9147]

@@Zenodilodon thank you very much for the help. I would have one more question, about the mca: when the laser turns on the light is red, but when I put on the mca, it stays red, yet I see the light passing through the crystal. I tried putting it both ways, but it doesn't seem to help.

[@Zenodilodon]

@@alexbitter9147 Be careful of that dim red light, it could be pretty dangerous levels of IR. The pump diode in yours simply may of failed or your batteries aren't able to provide current ( this happens with cheaper alkaline batteries ) You should be getting a very clean dim red line with a little sparkle ( easiest to see on a black object ) if the pump it good. If there is no sparkle/speckle or there are dark bands seen in the output this could indicate damage to the pump diode. You're most likely going to have to just get a new laser if this is the case.

[@alexbitter9147]

@@Zenodilodon alright, thank you, I'll be careful with the light, and I'm really grateful for your video and advices on the topic. I will try the options you suggested, hopefully the laser will come back to life. In any case, thank you very much for your help, I really appreciate it:D

[@darkracer1252]

deffinatly a verry perculiar fellow. but he seems like a nice guy and there should be more people like him in the world

[@Zenodilodon]

I am rather eclectic aren't I. I agree though, we need more nice strange people taking part in the active community!

[@warenmann1042]

If I remove the expanding lens then reassemble the laser can I get a more focused pin point at a distance. Not for burning but for greater accuracy in a laser leveling type of setup at say 50ft...

[@itscold316]

I have an unbranded laser pointer, I got the optical assembly and board assembly out, accidently snapped the board off of the optical assembly and I thought I could just disassemble the optical component but it seems to be hard glued together. The black plastic lens housing is not budging. A shame because I could probably otherwise just resolder the components.

[@Zenodilodon]

Pulling the module out on these kinds of green lasers can be very tough. They really do get a metal forming crimp on the inside sometimes. If all else fails you can easily peel off the case with a pliers and get the module that way on these cheap kinds. This of course destroys the pointer aspect but as least you can maybe salvage and fix the actual laser. If the driver has the LM358 chip on it the driver can be powered off USB (5v) though you will need external cooling like a heat sink for long run times.

[@Mr3Dvisuals]

Thanks for sharing the video, was looking for that! Just an idea... Putting an exact piece of tube a washer and a nut over a longer extending screw (the one you "screwed" in the vice) can make your tool perfect. Then simply tighten the nut to press with the tube against the edge of the housing and gently push the housing off, or pull the laser out, depending on how you look at it. ( if you cant find an exact piece of tube then just take a bigger one and add another washer at the bottom with an exact drilled hole for the housing) Should work :)👍

[@NandA-jr8qf]

What about the laser sight used on weapons? I looked for a video about the laser to make it myself, but never found a video or article, how does it work?

[@NandA-jr8qf]

I understand everything, but I don't understand the zeroing mechanism

[@OuterHeavenProduction]

question, i been trying to make a prop from a game called phasmophobia. im trying to make dots projector but how do i to get to make laser dots grind ?

[@Zenodilodon]

You will need a dual axis diffraction grating. This can be bought in the form of laser start caps, fire work glasses, or so on. Now, with that said these will have a brighter set of dots in the center compared to the outside but there is next to nothing you can really do about that because physics. www.amazon.com/Diffraction-Grating-Slide-Excellent-demonstrating/dp/B006ZBDRN0/ref=asc_df_B006ZBDRN0

[@1000000volts]

awesome intro pal .

[@joy7552]

I bought this but it only worked for an hour or so . Then stopped working and I put the laser under the bed and left it for 2-3 months .. now I kinda wanna play w it but it's not working .. any suggestions??

[@Zenodilodon]

I have had a little luck with getting them to run better on lithium based batteries like Energizer many alkaline batteries don't have enough oomph to really run at half an amp. If that doesn't work your only real option if not technical is to get a new laser pointer. My suggestion is the laser lands grass green 510nm pointer. It's not a bright/vivid at the 532nm but as a durable long life safe pointer it's solid!

[@joy7552]

@@Zenodilodon thanks ! Will try lithium battery . Imma let u know

[@TommyBaldwin652]

Love your videos.. Please make one on jow to take apart and repair a Thor 2 blue laser. It seems mine is glued and i cant for the life of me get it apart without risking damage to the rest of the diode / driver assembly.

[@agg5324]

I used to have this laser but it stopped working

[@PureVikingPowers]

How can i switch my red pen laser into a broken green laser case that is bigger and more awesome even if it's the same mw, i broke the green one while trying to switch because i don't know what i'm doing.

[@omsingharjit]

But why my green laser does not has any chip like your ? Instead two rasistor 4.7 ohm and 5.1 ohm also its laser diode made of plastic instead brass ?

[@Zenodilodon]

Sounds like you have a direct diode laser is it 520/515nm? This video is for the DPSS 532nm style that is much more common.

[@Zenodilodon]

Your board is also probably a boostmode driver much like the 405nm laser pointers. If your wondering more about those types of drivers check out my shunt mod video. If you are intending to do a pot/power mod ( however it's not recommended ) all the information on how to calculate the current shunt resistor value is on that video. For more information pertaining to your particular application just reply and I will be happy to help you out.

[@omsingharjit]

@@Zenodilodon no , my laser pointer was green , and it has not any inductor or ic so i think its current is only limited By resistor ? But unfortunately is distorted it by pulling its structure from spring side ( battery connection side ) i thought because it was able to rotate by some degree so i decided to pull it out using nose pliers but because of my bad luck diodes leads brocked off from board and also some from diode because it was made of plastic not brass type diode :( so i find structure of mine green laser was much different then most of your but it was not different from outside .

[@Zenodilodon]

@@omsingharjit Ah I understand what you mean by chip now. I thought you may of been talking about the crystal in the laser because you said there was a diode in plastic. I get what ya mean, you're driver is missing the LM385 8 pin op amp. Yes some laser drivers that are very cheap use only a few components, a little 3 pin adjustable current shunt (TL431) a few resistors and a bigger transistor that's usually a D882. The resistors that are closest to the TL431 are almost always for current adjustment. Changing either one of them should have an effect on the power. Keep in mind if your turning power up that you don't have much heat sinking due to plastic and that the diodes are already about 200mw on the pump if it's DPSS. For every mw of green you gain you add 10mw to the pump which can easily lead to a lot of stress on the 808 pump laser diode.

[@omsingharjit]

@@Zenodilodon you will not believe me , that there was no any active components other than Laser diode itself . There was one Push button , two resistors and diode .!

[@monsterdavid22]

Bro my Monolitic Crystaline in my laser is Broken,,,,,,,what is Your Suggestion to Repair it??????? I can still repair it?????

[@Zenodilodon]

Yes you can, if the crystal inside isn't broken but fell off you can epoxy it back into position while making sure the alignment is good and exits out of the front of the laser. You may have to adjust the expanding lens to move the output of the monolithic crystalline assembly to center. For a while new ones could be bought on eBay, I can't find them now sadly. If the laser is a cheap one such as in this video you might just be better off getting a new laser. It's usually the cheapest/easiest option when all things are factored in.

[@monsterdavid22]

@@Zenodilodon so sad thanks for answering me

[@thomasjohnson1778]

I just bought a high powered laser I have questions if you have time. Mostly why it's not focusing

[@Zenodilodon]

Is it a DPSS green? ( 532nm )

[@muhammadriaz3739]

sir i have a green laser / his middle lens is distrubed.its addjustment is very difficalt .sir please solve my probleme...

[@djproduction1029]

bro i give 12v to this suddently this gone problem no open what should i need to do

[@Zenodilodon]

It's fried, time for a new one. 12 volts is far to much voltage for the laser pointer's electronics.

[@matuquev]

I accidentally dropped my laser from about 5ft and now it's misaligned. I've managed to disassembly but just a thin green it's coming out with a very short reach... it's very thin nothing like it used to be... my bad I guess XD

[@Zenodilodon]

On the upside it sounds like pretty easy parts to get back on. If you are just getting into this stuff I would recommend trying with a small bit of epoxy to fix it. Probably either the expending lens or collimating lens that needs to be fixed. If it's a cheapo ebay laser you're probably best getting a new one as it's probably cheaper than the epoxy would be. On the upside you could easily make the broken one into an IR laser if you wanted.

[@matuquev]

@@Zenodilodon I'll give it a try, but yeah it's a cheapo laser pointer...

[@Hey_You_Me]

I'm just going to buy a different laser. I couldn't be high enough to do all this.

[@Zenodilodon]

Oh, I think you could be high enough if you tried.

[@loneventhorizon]

Hi there. Just wondering if you have a link to a wiring diagram for the pcb's at 4:35? And at 3:45 do you think it would be possible to get the diameter down to 6mm? Thanks.

[@Zenodilodon]

I do not have the exact diagram no, but I have a friend who is currently making some very very small drivers. Currently he only has boosting ones but I am working on getting him to make some linear drivers using similar parts as the green laser pointers since they are slowly being phased out by a board with a resistor on it that is garbage. If your interested in little drivers e-mail me and I will put you in contact with my friend.

[@alphaalpha3557]

Hello sir! I just stumbled upon your great tutorial, i only have one question, i do have the one that has an aluminum casing for the diode itself, do i need to remove the condensing lense as well? It seems to be tightly glued in place and I'm afraid of breaking the diode. I have already followed everything on this vid, put the whole assembly all back together and when i tested it, it only shown a tiny faint red dot but it doesn't burn anything at all. And it seems to be on good focus.. I haven't changed the original lens with the concave ones cause i currently don't have one, and i saw on your vid that will still burn at least bit.

[@alphaalpha3557]

I can't remove the diode from the casing to remove the spring and the condensing lense to test it out..

[@Zenodilodon]

@@alphaalpha3557 You shouldn't need to remove the condensing lens. The original lens only captures a faction of the light, while sometimes there is still enough power that always isn't the case. Sadly since the making of this video there has also been several changes in the way these cheap green laser pointers are made which has significantly decreased their quality. I am actually going to do a video on that and have purchased 3 cheap laser pointers, circas 1995, 2015, and 2023 to show the decline in quality. Part of the problem simply comes down to that and the pump may not be as powerful as they used to be. I also used a single 10440 in many of my pointers which is 4.2v and not 2x1.5v. This gives the laser a little more power to work with usually. The problem is one of the quality cutbacks has been the removal of the constant current driver and has simply been replaced with a resistor. Attempting to run 4.2v in newer laser points of this type simply run the risk of instant laser damage resulting in an unusable device. I would try using 1.6v NiZn rechargeable batteries to see if that helps in addition to the proper lens.

[@alphaalpha3557]

@@Zenodilodon thank you sir! Now i know that the driver itself was the problem. I currently have a diy mini engraver project that I plan to make all out of scratch. I almost completed every part of it, but modifying the laser I currently have has been very frustrating. I might not invest more time and effort building a suitable driver for the existing diode from my crappy green laser. Coz it's more practical and easier to just order a better one.(i guess) Anyway, I HAVE LEARNED A LOT because of your videos sir! So again thank you! I hope you post more videos about anything in the future. And I wish you all success in every aspect in life. -technerd from Philippines

[@JO72ful]

how many mw is the laser that current voltage uses and amperage I have one c is written 200mw but I don't think it is 200mw

[@Zenodilodon]

These are only 5 mw green output. Without a power meter it's a bit hard to tell, you should have no problem with lighting matches or burning some small stuff with 200mw. It's a lot of why I started making my own lasers more and not buying them. There is a satisfaction of knowing what's inside. The voltage often depends on the composition of the laser diode itself. IR-Red laser diodes all hover around the 2.35v range peak, where as other colored laser diodes have a higher operating voltage. If your laser is a green and 532nm it is like this and starts off IR. It could be degradation of the MCA which can also cause low power. Not all are equally stable or as efficient as well. The current is a tricky part and really can't be determined without putting a current meter in the loop with the laser diode or without a datasheet for that particular laser unit or diode.

[@FPV777]

I'm wondering, if I could mod an laser 303 525nm rated as < 200 mW - with G2 glass focusing lense (for blue laser, but already on AliExpress some shops already specs it for wavelength 400-700nm) optics. It has tread M9x0.5 And working distance is 2357mm (2.3meter) Could it fit somehow inside of 303 laser? Appreciate your help ☺️

[@Zenodilodon]

If the threads of the module in your 303 is M9 then a G2 should work as I believe they use an M9 thread on the carriers as well. However you probably will get few gains as a green direct diode has a pretty narrow output, the g2 works best with the multimode diodes with larger outputs, the wider lens helps cut divergence issues with big emitters. What you intend to do with your laser determines what lens is optimal along with the laser itself. Note that your 303 is for sure 525 and direct diode as replacing the lens on a mislabeled 532nm will not function the same as a direct diode laser. For practical comparisons I would suggest looking at some of the pictures posted on DTR's Laser Shop. Working distance 2.3 meter.... what? Does the beam stop at that point? lol

[@FPV777]

@@Zenodilodon 2.3m it's max Focusing distance - for getting burning point. As AliExpress say... Didn't tested this. Is this even possible?

[@Zenodilodon]

@@FPV777 The larger your lens is in width, generally making your beam wider at the aperture will lower divergence overall. If you want to burning at a distance. A beam expander or simple refraction telescope will greatly increase distance. You can also fully remove the original lens and experiment with larger positive power lenses externally for greater distance. I have not used the G2 personally, nor do I know the current lens of you laser. Many people say that it's a good lens, personally I like the smaller beams of the compound collimating lenses.

[@mjyanimations1062]

How to get the inside out without breaking the driver from the diode????!?!!?

[@Zenodilodon]

It's in the video.

[@SwordFastic]

Just wondering, i got the exact same green laser model pointer in this video, so they have IR filters in them? It was cheap, so i am assuming no. If there isn’t, what can i do to filter out IR light?

[@Zenodilodon]

The dangers of IR laser light in this situation has been somewhat overstated in videos. The background of the hazard precaution is that IR is dangerous and that it's in DPSS lasers, which are both true statements. The danger of IR is not the wavelength alone, it's actually the lack of blink reflex because it's not a wavelength that you can see the light output of well, if at all. Comparatively speaking IR for it's power is less hazardous typically due to scattering in skin/tissue. I have done tests on these cheaper lasers to see how bad the IR leakage is ( I think it's in the shunt mod video ). The IR light is a very low amount, maybe 5mw if even that. The other thing to consider is that the green beam is also present so it's not just IR. The green output is 30-50mw typically on these lasers. So to boil it down... IR/NIR lasers are hazardous, yes! Esp if you are inside of the laser or working with them when they only produce invisible light. Since most of the NIR/IR light is converted, or scattered and is accompanied by a green output ( of greater strength ) you are in a very very low practical bracket for IR eye damage, you'd blind yourself with the green output long before the IR became a problem. The whole IR danger in these lasers has been blown out of the water in some aspects. If you need to place one on for science/lab reasons and need to remove the IR then try one from a cheap webcam, those tend to work pretty ok.

[@SwordFastic]

thanks for the quick reply, i appreciate it. I will try out your suggestion, to make the green lasers safer for use. I asked as i was concerned about my laser safety goggles not blocking infared (they are cheap goggles) and my eyes getting damaged without me knowing. (better safest than regret)

[@SwordFastic]

(also i unscrewed my pointer with my fingers, all the parts were damn tight, and even glued down the some degree. I kept turning it and it did not creak, after i try for about half an hour, it finally gave way and i unscrewed it, and repeated this for all the other screwed and hammered in parts. My fingers are bruised by now.

[@Zenodilodon]

@@SwordFastic Sounds all too familiar. being of the engineering type requires a little masochism. On the upside it's usually worth it!

[@omsingharjit]

I experienced that , handling (modifying) laser depends on luck . I did salvage lots of Class 2 and 3 lasers for making burning laser but but what i always get failures. All burned some by over voltage some by ESD some by over current and some by physical damage . So m blaming to my luck 🥶😥😕😴

[@Zenodilodon]

On the upside, you probably haven't cooked as many laser diodes as I have lol Learning is tough some days.

[@omsingharjit]

@@Zenodilodon mean i m on right track :)

[@KunalkrManna]

your video are very good and explanatory

[@pabloantoniofigueroa4162]

Gracias por mostrarnos el desmontaje para poder reparar y modificar estos punteros que son muy económicos y útiles a la ves, saludos cordiales.

[@maxibigatti9676]

Ami me prende y me aparece en puntito rojo y cunado andaba era verde

[@bluethunder6801]

Your very clever mate. Very informative

[@ayahsadam9817]

Beautiful sharing

[@barez8059]

I have the same laser , but my laser button is broken. What can i do ?

[@Zenodilodon]

Switches are fixable however it's not an easy task. I would not bother due to the amount of work involved. It's a heck of a lot easier to purchase another one. You can still use the laser module inside you will just have to solder wires onto it for power.

[@KingConcho]

Hello! I just bought a green laser on amazon that goes onto airsofts. I want to be able to see the beam. Any advice on how i can make the beam more visible if the one i bought doesnt have a potentiometer? Its called a Feyachi GL6. Or do you have any other recommendations on a different mountable laser that could have a more visible beam?

[@Zenodilodon]

Green will be the most visible. I can't recommend any mods or improvements directly as it would be quite dangerous to others if you where shining a more powerful laser at them that exceeds 5mw, most are already past that limit. There are portions of my videos mostly the shunt mod and DVD/CD laser diode video that will show you modifications for most common drivers. Another issue is that making a laser more powerful in this manor with a pot/shunt mod without a more powerful laser diode that can take extra power will greatly reduce the life of your laser or destroy it instantly.

[@KingConcho]

@@Zenodilodon oh i wouldnt be shining this laser at anyone. The laser i purchased is advertised as 5mw, videos show it is probably closer to maybe 50mw. I would only be trying to get it to maybe 200mw or around there. But thanks for your response dude! The vids of yours that i have seen are great although most of it goes way over my head

[@KingConcho]

@@Zenodilodon actually when i cracked open the unit today, it has a pot. Sadly, cranking it seemed to make no difference and only turn it off and back on.

[@Raka3877]

My Laser Pointer 303 has broke and i need to change the Laser diode. Is there any specific code for that laser diode? Coz i couldnt find the same one as what i need. Anyway..great video 👍

[@Zenodilodon]

What color of laser and power output.

[@Raka3877]

@@Zenodilodon The Laser Color is Green and output power max.500mw

[@Zenodilodon]

@@Raka3877 Without knowing the exact output here is all my rules of thumb when it comes to replacing pump diodes in 532nm lasers. Test current going to the laser diode 1 amp = 1 watt optical output ( IE .3 amp = 300mw ) You will need to identify the laser diode form factor. it's most likely a 5.6mm laser diode, I doubt by a large margin it's 500mw which bring me to my second rule of thumb. Final output power is 1/10th the pump power ( IE Pump 300mw = green 30mw ) So for 500 mw a 5 watt pump would be used which is very powerful and comes in a c-mount package usually costing quite a bit of $ I am betting you will have between 500mw to 1000mw/1w for your pump diode. A pump diode is 808nm in wavelength. You will need to completely take apart the entire optical assembly and remove the bad pump diode then carefully restack and align the optics again which is very tricky. If you have never done this before I would say it would be easier/cheaper to replace the laser as it would be very hard to fully repair. You can use the laser housing for future DIY laser builds though.

[@elaxerblaxer]

Please tell me you have a video showcasing it and using it when it is new

[@Zenodilodon]

This laser? lol no... this is a cheap 532nm eBay laser. IMO they are barely worth the effort to walk to the garbage can. I do have a review on a direct diode 510nm grass green laser pointer that is durable and eye safe. Great purchase for a beginner laser enthusiasts/general use.

[@marks4301]

You know it's a legit laser channel when the camera sensor got beaten up by all the laser experiments ;-)

[@Zenodilodon]

You can't easily fake that kind of authenticity!

[@cbfull]

If someone were to add a trimmer to the driver, what resistance would it need to be?

[@Zenodilodon]

5-20K works. How to install the pot is on my Bare & Basic CD/DVD video.

[@quanbui8416]

Hello. I am interested in a laser pointer like what you were holding at [00:18]. I have 2 questions. First, at 50 meter, is the green dot still the same size, the same diameter as it is at 0,5 meter ? Second, is the inside laser diode TO 18 ? Thank you very much.

[@Zenodilodon]

It's a DPSS laser so the beam quality will be rather good compared to a direct diode laser. Yes the laser inside is 5.6mm, however in the video you will see that it in this case is not a green laser diode but an 808nm pump laser. If you are looking for a direct diode green laser with good beam profile you can use a single mode green like the Osram PL520 or the PL T5 510. sites.google.com/site/dtrslasershop/home/diodes

[@quanbui8416]

@@Zenodilodon Wow. Thank you so much Your answer is "Food for thought"

[@Zenodilodon]

@@quanbui8416 It's the best kind of food in my opinion!

[@mussim2919]

Great video! Love it!

[@cymaticCS]

I've bought one of these green lasers in 301 hosts, that are rated about 80mW... I also bought a laser diode 808nm at 300mW and I wonder could I increase the power if I swap the IR diode or that won't work? What do you think?

[@Zenodilodon]

You would need a bit more power I think if your 301 is already doing 80 mw green out. If so the pump in it could be a c-mount and 500mw+

[@cymaticCS]

@@Zenodilodon Thought so... Thank you for the fast reply though!

[@Zenodilodon]

@@cymaticCS Stay tuned I just finished what might be the worlds first OPSL laser pointer! working on the video right now just finished the project earlier :P

[@RingerOFDeath]

I have a xpro v2 532nm that won’t turn on anymore.. battery shows charged and all.. nervous the diode driver board is fried .. do you work on them where I could send you this? Thanks and let me know

[@Zenodilodon]

It's not often a driver fails in a 532nm pointer. You can check to see if the driver is passing current by using a meter in current/amps and placing it in the circuit where the battery cap goes using the meter to complete the circuit ( one probe on battery contact and one on laser housing/case ) If the meter shows current it could also be the pump diode. Another way to tell if it's the pump diode. Another thing to carefully check for is if you can spot a tiny amount of red light inside of the laser. However checking this can be hazardous if there is a lot of IR if there has been another type of failure. I don't repair laser pointers, I generally only work on show laser systems and lab lasers. I hope you understand.

[@RingerOFDeath]

@@Zenodilodon thanks for the info.. I just don’t understand how it has sat for months and go to use it and nothing.. I am not at all great with electrical stuff so that’s why I asked if you could fix this.. hate to spend another 60$+ on new one has this one has only been used hand full of times ☹️

[@amadocarrera6615]

Hello, how are you, greetings from Mexico, I would like to know if you could give me information on the two increases that you use after the diode. I have a 3000mw pointer but I don't know what graduation they are and where I could get them. I would greatly appreciate it if you give me information.

[@Zenodilodon]

3000mW? No, direct diode 520/525 only goes to 1600-1800mw, 532nm DPSS only really goes to 100mW. The laser pointer for 3000mW would require a 20,000mW Pump Laser diode with 20A+ battery pack. It would be very large and unlikely to be made. I do not understand " Information on the two increases ". Are you asking about the expanding lens and collimating lens physical characteristics? Please verify the wavelength of your Laser pointer, if it's a more powerful 520-525nm Laser than the lenses discussed i this video are not applicable and you may require different ones for repair or use. For 532nm glass expanding and collimating lenses can be found on eBay with a search or three. They are all fairly standard for the application.

[@nicolasjofre9823]

hola compre un laser verde 303 y no me prende, osea lo pongo a cargar me dice carga lista y lo prendo y alumbra uy poquito que puede ser

[@Zenodilodon]

El Laser 303 es una mierda de consumidor. Mucha gente pregunta sobre su reparación. Obtienes lo que pagas en este caso y repararlos no es exactamente posible. El diodo de la bomba funciona por encima de las especificaciones y se queman rápidamente.

[@parveen2263]

How do I repair a green laser like yours. My laser dosent turn on anymore

[@Zenodilodon]

There are some answers in the comments below on various types of issues. With how cheap these pointers it's pretty much a case where I would just save it for parts and buy a new one.

[@djremotion2]

What kind of glasses would I need to see the IR but also be safe?

[@Zenodilodon]

That is a good question. Your eyes cannot see IR all that you see is a very faint red. In my videos I use a camera phone that is modified to see IR which is done by removing the IR filter. There are videos on how to do this on KZbin. You can at that point get a VR headset made to convert your phone use ones with a single lens as it doesn't work with side by side because you will be using a phone's camera. This is the only way to accomplish both at once.

[@charlesreed8420]

17:48 would you recommend getting that type of lens for the normal green laser to make it more powerful?

[@charlesreed8420]

also, is there any way to clean diodes/expanding lens/collimating lens?

[@Zenodilodon]

No, adding other lenses on your laser won't make it more powerful. I changed lenses because the diode output is different than the crystal output. The only way to make your laser more powerful the proper way is to get a stronger diode and driver. There is " Pot modding " but this damages lasers really quickly do to over current.

[@captain2212]

I can't get my green laser pointer apart. It is silver pen with 2 AAA's and very heavy. I tried a bench vise but the end wont pop off. Do you have to cut these open? And is there a chance it isn't pod controlled?

[@Zenodilodon]

Yes sometimes they do need to be cut open. What do you mean by pod control? do you mean pot? If so please note that " pot modding " your laser for more power has a great chance of destroying your laser.

[@captain2212]

@@Zenodilodon so it is 100% going to be pot on the board? Ok and use 5v and crank it all the way up? Got it!

[@Zenodilodon]

@@captain2212 Well, if there isn't a pot you can check out the CD and DVD laser diode video and it shows you how to put one on. If your laser has good weight to it I am betting it has a modifiable driver. Little secret, it you push it up to 12v you'll get a smoke machine too!

[@FlashLightDylan]

So to be clear is better to remove the expanding lens?

[@Zenodilodon]

No, I had just not put it back on when I was doing the demo. Since I tend to buy these only for the drivers I had no intent on fully restoring the laser. Not putting that part in was an oversight on my behalf. The expanding lens almost never comes off during impact damage or used in the IR mod. You're the first person to point that out and ask if memory serves me.

[@FlashLightDylan]

@@Zenodilodon i was just wondering cause if the beam is smaller it's more powerful i gues impressive you reply on all your comments keep up the good work

[@Zenodilodon]

@@FlashLightDylan The beam is smaller and has more energy density in the near field yes, but to get a collimated beam it first needs to be a certain roundness. It's actually somewhat an inverse function, the smaller of a beam you start with the worse the divergence you'll end up with. If you want the power close up using the beam right off the crystal assembly is a great option. I'd say throw a clear dust proofing window on it though to prevent contaminating the coatings. Thanks for the compliment, I try to keep up with comments as best as I can!

[@keri11369]

I just received my pointer and it is the assassine, but I bought the one that has the danger label and this is the apetureand it doesn't say what size battery well both a Triple A and a Double-A seem to be too big what is the deal there's no instructions or papers at all with it?

[@keri11369]

Why doesn't A battery fit snugly in there like every other device on the Earth?

[@Pauly5150]

Could a modded laser be useful for using as an illuminator with night vision? Thanks

[@Zenodilodon]

100% works really really well. I use modded ir lasers for this. It help to also place frosted glass on the front to help widen the view field up close.

[@anomicxtreme]

Lol you have the same curse I did at that age. I was 31 and looked 21. Great video man. Have you tried any upgrades using the irlu7843 mosfet yet?

[@Zenodilodon]

It's a good curse to have overall, though the grey hairs are slowly starting to come through. One day I'll be Zenodilodon the grey lol. What do you mean by upgrades? I use many Mosfets here ranging from small and fast all the way up to fets such as the apt20m11.

[@anomicxtreme]

@@Zenodilodon The Styropyro dude did a video on ebay pen lasers and he was using them in his and was saying that it was pretty much the most power you could squeeze into such a small setup and will switch up to 620 amps of current. I'd love to get my hands on the NDG7475 diode he uses too but my wife would kill me if I spent that much on a laser.

[@Zenodilodon]

@@anomicxtreme 620 amps aye, but for how long lol. There are lots of powerful diodes out there but I tend to stay away from the ones that got past 2W because of their terrible beam specs. I don't really get into the burning laser pointer stuff at all these days and have slid heavily into the DPSS stuff for their astounding beam characteristics. In that regard I am the swiss pocket watch to styros big ben. I say go for it and make yourself a powerful gadget, a loving wife will understand! :P

[@anomicxtreme]

@@Zenodilodon if I could honestly afford it I would definitely. Like how you compare yourself to styro it really comes down to accessibility and $$. Remember, he's been doing these videos forever, like 12 or 13 years I think? My problem is that aside from the lack of funds I don't have the benefit of being near a big city. I'm way at the top of the lower part of Michigan and there's nothing up here. I grew up in Detroit and that's the only thing I miss is the crazy stuff that the factories would just give away or toss out lol.

[@kgxperiment8181]

Very very very good vidéo👍! Thank you for all informations ^^! Hmm.. okay honestly +1 subscriber for that because i really love laser and your vidéo was a real paradise of explaination for this so thanksfull and Keep going on this way😉 !!! Ps: Love from France🇨🇵

[@Zenodilodon]

Thank you for such kind words! I intend to continue bringing more information about lasers coming on this channel! It's my passion and I will be lasering for life! If you have any questions on a laser topic let me know and I will try to help as best as I can. Be well and laser on!

[@kgxperiment8181]

@@Zenodilodon 😉👌

[@valentinluques720]

Hola

[@qbitsday3438]

GREAT Video!

[@justinwhite604]

Can baking soda be used to dry the super glue instantly in this reassembly?

[@Zenodilodon]

Yes it can be. I also use super glue accelerators or just a small drop of rubbing alcohol to cut set times. I strongly recommend to also have forces airflow on parts you are gluing to prevent fumes from contacting optical surfaces and wrecking them.

[@ffaunaselvagem2187]

Como faço para aumentar a potência do meu leis e transformar ele em um laser infravermelho

[@lucywucyyy]

damn i took mine appart as i watched only to find out they dont have potentiomiters in anymore

[@Zenodilodon]

There is a portion in my Bare & Basic CD/DVD video that shows how to mod the drivers and put a potentiometer on the driver. However I will also say if you intend to do a pot mod to turn up the power you will most likely damage your laser's pump diode. Many of the green lasers are already running up to 40 mw output from the factory. keep in mind for every mw you get out in green you are turning up the pump 10x that much ( 40 >60 mw means 200mw over power on the IR pump diodes )

[@WerewolfMaster]

Nice camera lens laser burns xD

[@qmagic5864]

hi tell me, can you change the inner life of a broken gatling leaser (diode) yourself or do it better?

[@Zenodilodon]

Yes you can. Typically these lasers use a 300-400mw 808nm laser for pumping. The rough conversion efficiency is 10% IE 100mw of 808nm=10mw of 532nm. There are many pump diodes you can get though if you're intending to replace the original laser diode you will most likely need a 5.6mm and to keep the pump under 900mw as the drivers can't do more than 800-900ma of current ( This is max current with modification, the modification is on my CD and DVD video ) You'll also need to throw a little heat sink on the driver if you choose to go past 500mw for your pump.

[@qmagic5864]

@@Zenodilodon many many Thanks, you are a great Guy like all you Videos 👍😁 and it's the same way to press all out of the Laeser like you do in this Video?

[@Zenodilodon]

@@qmagic5864If they look like this then yes, they are pressed in. They are not easy to take apart though, they still give me problems from time to time. Glad you like the content. I have a video uploading now of an insane 22 watt show laser system!

[@qmagic5864]

@@Zenodilodon thanks 👍😎

[@gerardojimav4076]

Excelente!! Gracias por el video.

[@omsingharjit]

How to remove diode

[@Zenodilodon]

They are usually press fit in and are open can, for the DPSS 532nm greens it's nearly impossible to remove them without destroying them. The best option I have found is a piece of brass tubing that will fit around the can or die and using a vice to press them out. Honestly they are so cheap and prone to the diode being broken I consider them disposable items. Sometimes the diode host is nice if it's all metal/brass and i save those.

[@omsingharjit]

you replied little bit late , i just , removed diode from 303 Green laser , you are right it's impossible to remove without destroying it , that's why i had to cut its casing . by the way i have an idea to remove it without distorting it , can you plz try it in any video ? so i can share

[@Zenodilodon]

@@omsingharjit I don't have any plans for making another video around the cheapo 532nm laser pointers, I can see about putting a little blurb in a video if your idea works next time I purchase a bunch for the drivers. I don't typically use the laser assembly other than for IR illuminators and for very cheap drivers to mod for use in other projects.

[@Duendes63]

I’ll buy a Lazer from you I needed for road striping the ones we buy you can’t see during the day let me know

[@Zenodilodon]

What do you mean striping roads?

[@mohamedwoody6148]

Hello brother i have an laser And have a small problem in it can you Tell me what should I do?

[@Zenodilodon]

Most problems have been discussed in the comments.

[@mohamedwoody6148]

@@Zenodilodon ok thanks ☺️

[@digitalwojtya3669]

nice vid

[@ffaunaselvagem2187]

Você teria algum vídeo no seu canal Em que canal

[@ront8270]

What if never worked ...I put Batteriers in and I get nothing ... ant help

[@denniswhitley9916]

Can you merge multiple beams into one to increase total power output?

[@Zenodilodon]

Yes and no. These lasers can be combined with knife edge arrays or by means of PBS cube or both. This information is covered in videos where I rebuild laser heads with multiple lasers combined to make one beam. There are limitations to these methods but are the only options available due to the physics.

[@darkracer1252]

for anyone wondering. that next video never went up

[@Zenodilodon]

Nope not yet, I am planning the DVD for summer since there is a lot I want to cover in it.

[@GLITCH_-.-]

8:04 Oh great! I had just extracted a laser diode from a DVD burner, but it was a weird rectangular one where it isn't obvious which pin is which. 22:46 it's number five from left. Please show us how to get them out of the heatsink. :) I once bought one of these cheap-shits from a "good" online shop. (Not eBay) Advertised as a 510nm diode laser. But it was just a usual 532nm dpss... :( Even worse than getting the wrong kind is the push-button is apparently the cheapest part in these. How are they holding up for you? Mine is very hard to get to shine with full brightness and barely works anymore. I hoped this video would help, but I don't want to destroy the casing. :( I also once bought a 405nm lens assembly for my 200mW 405nm laser. It is fluorescent under this wavelength. So it is garbage. Probably for green lasers. Damn it! *You can't buy anything, anywhere, anymore since China fucked the whole market!* Grrr

[@Zenodilodon]

Oh great! indeed place that LD aside or contact me over FB and I can let you know what the pins are if you want to play around with them sooner. I noticed as I did my first DVD laser videos ( outdated now ) that many DVD burners had strange laser diode form factors, they are common as heck and this left me to the thought of how many people must of pulled a DVD burner apart looking for a 5.6mm diode. On man soooo many lol. I have taken the challenge on to make a really long and detailed video and it's a pretty big undertaking with the time I have, but should be highly rewarding. For lasers above 100mw I always use glass, I find dust can get burned into plastic ones if it fluoresced under 405nm it might be plastic. I agree with you on the market, it's hard to find reliable sellers, the market is all sorta of strange parts and bad item descriptions.

[@Zenodilodon]

As far as lasers holding up, I don't buy these for use, I buy them for the drivers, the drivers from these lasers will be used in the DVD video. I typically make my own pointers from scratch, needless to say purchased laser pointers have a life of 20 minutes when they arrive.

[@GLITCH_-.-]

I can wait for the video. I am still doing the TEA laser stuff. :) The diode from my 405nm laser is kind of broken (less output) so I was hoping the DVD burner would give me a casing compatible diode. Yeah, I'm one of the people who hoped for a 5.6mm diode or smaller. xD The 405 diode is weirdly small, though. About 3mm, but looks like the usual 5.6mm otherwise. Anyway, I can use the driver from it for the DVD diode. Also, the lens-assembly I was talking about is currently in my 300mw red laser. (Forgot which "red". It was one of those with a big beam: about 1.5cm. They look really cool! You should definitely get one of these.) I was thinking: Shouldn't a lens-assembly for 405nm (or 532) wavelength lasers be different to those for "red"? I thought it wouldn't work good, but it works flawless. I mean beam divergence or something. That was weird to me. Why does it work for all wavelengths?

[@Zenodilodon]

You probably came across a 3.8mm 405nm. Was it from a burner? if not the voltage is about 5v at .02 amp it's a burner some of them like the BDR-16 can do 6.25v at .56 amps check on what type it is. My go to for 405nm is always the BDR-16 3.8mm LD

[@Zenodilodon]

Sorry I think I read things a little incorrect. If you are intending to use a 405nm laser for the DVD burner, you cannot the voltage and current ranges are not the same due to the diode material types. Best option is a 532nm laser driver that is modded or to order specifically a driver for red, such as one for the oclaro 700mw LED which I also may place in the video for those who want a much brighter red then a DVD laser diode.

[@adrianbaez4490]

I have the exact laser and the batteries seem to loose then before and doesn’t fully power the laser. How do I fix this ?

[@Zenodilodon]

You can try to pull on the spring and provide more pressing force on the batteries, maybe try cleaning the bottom of the end cap. My usual answer would be to use a rechargeable 10440 lithium ion at 37-4.2v, this requires pushing out the end cap and cutting down the battery holder shorter or using a AAA sized spacer to make up for the missing battery since you only need one to run the laser. This option may work for you but newer laser pointers are getting so cheap they no longer have the proper regulation circuit to prevent over current so that option may damage or excessively drive your laser diode which will lower the overall lifespan of the device.

[@adrianbaez4490]

@@Zenodilodon so i put aluminum foil on the end if the battery and it got really hot. The laser gives out a faint light as well

[@adrianbaez4490]

@@Zenodilodon thank you got your advice I might take it apart and mod it

[@Zenodilodon]

@@adrianbaez4490 Yeah foil tends to have a pretty bad habit of having aluminum oxide build up and can get hot due to poor contact. You can try to open the laser and make modification. I would suggest before doing so to look at my CD/DVD laser video and get your head around how to use the drivers and stuff. Also note that the general current to set the stock green laser diodes is .25 amps.

[@adrianbaez4490]

@@Zenodilodon awesome I will do my homework and come back with results thank you for your help and replies !

[@rozerovdemon6664]

I do That to my láser because the part of the batteries has burned out so I broke my laser and just saving the circuit, like in the min. 10:00, how can I connect or use the laser in that conditions?

[@Zenodilodon]

If you pulled the whole module out the outside of the diode host is + and the spring contact is -. Connect your battery at those points. You'd have to clarify your question and status of your laser's condition for more precise information.

[@rozerovdemon6664]

@@Zenodilodon It is the entire circuit, it just doesn't have the second lens, it has the spring, the plate, the button, then the diode that is still inside the gray cylinder and then the laser and the lens, it is literally the entire circuit without the second lens, just It does not have the tube where the batteries go And what I want to do is use the laser, since I spent $300mx and at some point the tube where the batteries go stopped working, the laser I think still works, so I just want to know how to use it without the tube

[@Zenodilodon]

@@rozerovdemon6664 Yeah the grey cylinder is + positive and the spring is - The newer cheap laser pointers tend to not have a proper regulating driver in them for current. Look on the board, if you see an 8 pin part that says LM358 or another 6 pin chip you can put up to 5v. If the board only has resistors do not exceed 3V or you may cook your laser diode!

[@__dn___6852]

Bro I have lost my laser lens ✨ Where will I get it? 😭

[@cantocacaepesca]

Obrigado por compartilhar excelente conteúdo, like mais um inscrito

[@sushmanandam3452]

My light is not coming

[@liakathossen5177]

My too😢

[@sumobear1777]

Here's a question why do red and blue lasers die in the cold no where near as easily as the green?

[@Zenodilodon]

Direct diode lasers are not as temperature sensitive as DPSS (IE 532nm). The reason for this is because of the nonlinear crystal inside ( IE KTP in a 532nm laser pointer ) When the photons enter the crystal they do so as an electromagnetic wave. These waves have a phase both in the electric field and the magnetic field component. Like other waves they also have peaks and nodes, in a laser these wave are very consistent due to being a single wavelength. The nonlinear crystal has to match up an incoming wave with a reflected wave to effectively combine 2 waves together to act on the electrons in the nonlinear crystal. So imagine in your head putting 2 basic sinusoidal waves together. Just like say, saw teeth there are points where they perfectly overlap or not if you slide one wave side to side. Let's consider a particular aliment to be "phase matched" Now consider this tolerance is in the manometer range because the waves you are dealing with are that small. (IE human hair is about 70,000nm wide, in a 532nm laser the tolerance for phase matching would be a fraction of 532nm, say within 15% or 80-100nm. This is a very very small tolerance and is important to note. Now consider material thermal expansion coefficient properties where things expand when warmer and shrink when colder. So in the laser we have a crystal, that needs to be withing 100nm of a suitable length to work of which temperature changes it's size. Temperature changes the location of the mirrored coating on the crystal and moves the reflected waves out of phase compared to the incoming ones.( Laser heads usually have a whole resonator assembly ). This explains why the DPSS laser pointers don't like cold, and why most DPSS laser systems require a warm up time. You will see this in a few of my DPSS videos as well as the TECs and feedback thermistors that regulate temperatures of optical components for this reason. In a direct diode laser the light is generated by a molecular band gap length and secondary properties such as spacing between the mirrored surfaces inside of the laser diode. These of course are also effected by temperature. As you cool down a laser diode it contracts and the band gap gets smaller as well as the spacing between mirrored internal surfaces. This increases the frequency of the laser ( up in thz, down in nm ). This is why you can super cool a red laser diode and make it go orange, or super heat a blue and have it start to go green as it expands. The upside is diodes themselves don't rely on phase matching as much and tend to still work regardless. However some laser diodes such as low power reds will lose output when too hot. I hope that thoroughly answers your question.

[@sumobear1777]

@@Zenodilodon oh yeah that definitely did. thank you very much

[@Zenodilodon]

@@sumobear1777 Glad to hear it.

[@joesteinke]

I used my cheap 532. Mm. 5mwgreen laser it was cold outside. When done I put it in my pocket. Now it don't work but when I press the button there is a red dot inside the tip. That isn't visible anywhere except inside the hole what's wrong???

[@Zenodilodon]

If the laser does not work when warmed back up then its sounds like your pump diode may of been open can and moisture got on the front of the laser die resulting in catastrophic optical damage. This would still produce a dim red light, but much more like an LED and not a laser so therefore it cannot lase the crystals. Only replacement of the 808nm pump can fix this issue.

[@joesteinke]

@@Zenodilodon ohhh well I don't think it got wet. O 3w4

[@Zenodilodon]

@@joesteinke Only takes a 10 micron wide drop to cause damage.

[@joesteinke]

@@Zenodilodon ok I did blow the dust out while it was cold maybe that caused enough liquid to build. Thank you

[@Zenodilodon]

@@joesteinke Yep, that would certainly be enough to do it sadly.

[@pak-news1049]

11:04 hassan

[@ibrahim.s484]

I have the same green laser I bought it a day ago and it was working just fine but the next day I was using it and it suddenly stopped working the Light was Dim I went to get new battery’s brand new out the packet and it still did not work the Light is Very dim please how do I fix this

[@Zenodilodon]

New cheap eBay green laser pointers are now starting to lack proper current regulating drivers. Do not purchase these style anymore as there is a large chance they will be easily destroyed. Due to this reason your pump diode is probably partially failed, if so there is no way to repair it.

[@ibrahim.s484]

@@Zenodilodon I got it from Amazon and also can you recommend a good laser

[@Zenodilodon]

@@ibrahim.s484 When it comes to laser pointers sadly no. I pretty much roll my own from now on and it's been that way for years because I got sick of gambling on quality. I will say one of the best general use green laser pointers is the Grass Green 510nm from Laser Lands. It's driven well with in spec on the diode with a proper driver, safe to eyes, and built like a tank! You will see the review I did on that in my videos. It's about the only green laser pointer I can recommend as it's not only safe but also durable which is why I did a review on that specific one. www.ebay.com/itm/143729696040?hash=item2176f51d28:g:0csAAOSwy7pfWeJS

[@ibrahim.s484]

@@Zenodilodon thanks

[@ljubomirculibrk4097]

Wach for IR laser light leakage, ware IR blocking glasess.

[@Zenodilodon]

The IR warning on green laser pointers is for the most part blown out of proportion. Most of the IR dangers come from working on the inside of larger DPSS laser heads and not pointers. Tests where done as I talked about this semi-misinformation on my shunt mod video and I also explain a little of the true dangers as well.

[@Stanima68]

brilliant video