Complete Guide To Setting A Shower Pan

[@slappychap969]

Totally love the way you physically point out what your talking about. And gives the average schmuck an idea what you're talking about. Kudos

[@yllonnoc1985]

Thank you for the thorough video…this diy-er is feeling pretty good about my project now.

[@steven9163]

Fantastic video. I just installed my first shower and I did nearly everything you did, including mortar underneath the shower basin, except I spread mine out. I did use shims, but you’re absolutely right, I should’ve used plywood. Lesson learned for next time. I did not even think about using flashing for the studs at the point where they meet the shower basin and that was a big concern of mine. What a great idea. I’ll remember that for my next shower in a month or so.

[@johngreene7790]

Well done! Often times guys who do this kind of thing all the time assume that I understand things that they take for granted. You don't do that. For example, after watching many videos on shower pan installations, I thought that the purpose of self-leveling cement under a shower pan was to level the pan. Now, after watching your video, I understand that its primary purpose is to provide support to the pan. That helps me a great deal. Thank you.

[@spike378]

It's not self leveling cement and it's for that two purposes

[@martinpolach6171]

Thank you for your thorough video. You are very diligent replying to comments and questions ....

[@Bridog217]

This was so very, very helpful. It answered every single question and concern that I had. Thank you

[@aaronreeder5753]

Agreed. Pro. Thanks :)

[@fathampeak]

Thank you for all the details, increased my confidence to do our own shower! Great video.

[@enduringcharm]

Good luck!

[@Jack-gu7rr]

Love the way you leveled the pan with wood feet screwed to the floor before adding mortar. Thank you! Great video! Subbed..

[@victorclare9376]

GREAT VIDEO. LEARN SOMETHING EVERYDAY.. THANKS BUDDY

[@traytonjay2670]

Thank you for taking the time to make this this video! Excellent explanations, detail, and tricks of your trade. (Said the DIYer installing his first shower pan ever, tomorrow - as part of a complete master bath redux).

[@pastorjosh7747]

How did your install go? I'm installing a Vigo shower base in the next few weeks with a glass enclosure. I'm anxious about getting it perfectly level so the glass sits on it properly.

[@leswilliams9565]

Fantastic and very comprehensive video. Appreciate the various implications and trade-off’s you discuss. Thanks so very much for sharing your knowledge and experience. I hope all your content is just as succinct and pertinent (very difficult to find) , I will be a subscriber for life!

[@markoshun]

Wow! great video. I like the idea of using blobs of thin-set for leveling and extra support. I'll be doing my next one on a basement floor.. maybe I'll use plastic over the thin-set so plumber can take pan back out for plumbing. Yes! flashing. Love it. I've yet to have an install where I could shim out the walls and hang the backer over. Your trick adds so much peace of mind and even allows for the caulking and grout to be totally gone down there as well. Very nice! I love redundant backups and try to build so could theoretically shower before tiles. I think the reason they send flat-head screws is so that we don't countersink. But that seems overkill to me too, and not worth the extra trouble it causes. Thanks much for sharing this with us.

[@jasonoliveira2149]

Very well done with excellent explanations of different scenarios other than just this install. Thanks!

[@deejohnson5163]

Very good detail info that most people wouldn't think about.

[@justicetrucking5364]

This is a awesome video explaining everything very well. I’m doing this right now in my house.

[@larrymason8381]

Joe peschi does renovations now...cool! Do i look funny to you?😂. Great job! I learned a lot

[@ballsmaybite801]

Lawrence Mason I was just about to ask why Uncle Vinny stopped practicing law and started remodeling bathrooms. I guess this coronavirus bullshit is affecting everyone.

[@slappychap969]

I was thinking Joe Pechi too.. lol but love this guy's video tactics.

[@jcsteuart2]

Very clear advice. Some not seen elsewhere (waterproofing the pan rim). Very helpful.

[@YaSureSir]

Detailed, articulate and funny. Excellent video!

[@fanmanabc]

Really great video! Currently doing an install myself and this addressed my concerns I had. For the squeaking, I found that a bead of silicone where the pan meets the joists tend to help.

[@MrHank5899]

You explain things well good job

[@grantholt1122]

Very good video... points mentioned were explained clearly. Two thumbs up

[@krn14242]

Great work John. Love the tip about the bugle tip screws versus pan heads. Looks much cleaner and ready for backer board.

[@grantstanley5168]

Great video. I recently purchased a shower kit, pan and doors that I'll be installing. The company is Maax. The pan has Styrofoam attached to it, which is how they're built. It doesn't sit level on the floor and i need to shim and use mortar. Can I use mortar directly against the styrofoam? Will it break down the styrofoam or should I use plastic against the styrofoam before laying it on the mortar? Thank you.

[@enduringcharm]

You will find that manufacturers have a wide variety of advice on this matter, some contradictory within their own installation booklets! Some designs do assume a perfectly level floor, which is idiotic, but I guess it looks great on an engineer's computer screen. If it appears that your shower base will not tolerate shims or mortar very well or if the instructions forbid their use, your other option is to use leveling compound on the floor in advance. You may be able to do that just in the shower alcove and feather it out as it meets the room. This option will work if the floor isn't severely out of level but if you have a significant level problem you may need to correct it with the subfloor and underlayment first.

[@tomkennedymx]

Awesome video! Hey I have a Dreamline shower base and they don't say to use the screws into the studs. Would you recommend I do that step anyway?

[@enduringcharm]

If they recommend installation into a bed of mortar and nothing else, I will often evaluate the possibility of drilling holes in the flange to secure the unit to the studs. It depends on how tall and how thick the flange is and what material the base is made from. I do like to have some mechanical fastening to the studs if possible. Of course, I will also do the mortar.

[@tomkennedymx]

@@enduringcharm Thanks for the reply!

[@themusj]

I'll soon be placing my Dreamline shower base in my bathroom. Your video has given me great insights. I do have two questions. My directions calls for a sand-mix underneath with no screwing to the studs {technical support confirmed no screws as sand-mix is to hold unit.} In your video at around 15:51, you twice say you won't put any weight onto the shower base until your 'mortar poops' are dry. I was thinking in my case, that would be the opposite. If I don't put weight on it, how do I know it settled all the way to the bottom. I marked the studs with the shower base sitting in as a dry fit. I would assume with the sand-mix in, i would need to weight it down to back to those markings? Not sure why not putting weight in any application is a bad thing. I would think you would want the mortar to spread around any gaps and the weight would help do that. Is my question making sense? Also my shower base it appears to be a 1/8" off level. Not enough to worry about right? Thank you.

[@enduringcharm]

To clarify, you do, obviously, need to push down on the pan in order to seat it in the mortar. After that seating, however, you want to keep off of the unit until the mortar (or whatever you're using) sets up and can hold weight. It's probable that your dry fit marks won't align after the mortar anyway, so don't rely on those. Keep a level handy. If you can make up that 1/8 inch off level you should do it. Everything else, from tile to the shower doors are affected by being off level. Since you are bedding in mortar anyway, it should be relatively easy to get that pan dead-level. Just don't pull it back up after you've seated it. It's a one-way trip. Carefully seat the pan while watching your level and when you've hit bottom and you're on the bubble both ways, just leave it alone.

[@PlantaLoco]

Can you lay a round corner shower base on top of vinyl flooring. Im thinking of doing that to avoid cutting around it . Since it will be hard to cut it perfectly around the base and end up with an ugly gap

[@enduringcharm]

I'm not thrilled with the idea. Can it be done? I suppose it would work, and then you would caulk around the base. But the vinyl will tend to expand and contract and that isn't a very solid foundation for a shower base. And when you do need to change the vinyl it will be stuck under your shower base. If you are not doing a complete remodel, you could dry fit the base, mark the flooring, and then remove the base to cut the vinyl to the correct shape. If you get within an 1/8" then the rest will be covered by caulk or trim anyway.

[@PlantaLoco]

@@enduringcharm Nice i like that idea better now that you mention the dry fitting and marking the flooring for a perfect cut. I didnt even think of that. Thanks alot for the fast response i really appreciate it. I also enjoy your very informative videos. Cheers from northern California

[@mikeoconnell4241]

Very informative. Great job!

[@Mrjosecol1]

Excellent explanation!!!

[@solomonparshad2363]

Is there anything you should put between the actual shower base and subfloor or do you directly attach it? If you’re putting mortar, wouldn’t the plywood absorb some of the moisture? In this case, shouldn’t tarpaper be used as a buffer so the shower base is properly attached?

[@enduringcharm]

Some shower pans (or tubs) require bedding in mortar and some do not. You need to check the manufacture's instructions. If a bedding mortar is required, it's not a problem to put it directly on the plywood but I often staple down plastic or tyvec first out of consideration for the next guy. You can let the plastic stick out beyond the edge of the pan or tub, too, which will offer some protection against moisture seeping down into the plywood from above.

[@buildmax1]

Thanks for the added tips that was really helpful.

[@bgzwlz5119]

You were setting a Fiberglass pan and you screwed through the flange using Hardie backer screws. Would you screw through the flange for acrylic bases/pans as well? You always see a large headed nail applied directly to the framing just above the flange, but not through the flange.

[@enduringcharm]

Every unit is different and you have to both read the manufacturer's instructions as well as (sometimes) make up your own rules. I installed a drop-in tub not long ago where I added two additional feet because I found Kohler's design inadequate. Some fiberglass pans have feet, some are to be set in mortar. Sometimes I'll use screws even if not shown in the directions, sometimes not. For a DIY I would follow the manufacturer instructions. For me, sometimes I make a judgement call based on experience.

[@xungngo]

Question: Wouldn't the mortar on plywood makes it extra tough to remove this pan for future renovation?

[@enduringcharm]

Standard mortar actually comes up fairly easily when that time comes. There are masonry products, such as thinset mortar, which will stick tenaciously to plywood or anything else. But standard mortar will break free with a few taps of a hammer. In any case, there isn't much choice, since the some pans need to be supported.

[@RKGraves]

Excellent video - Thank You! I learned a lot and you gave me some great tips. Thank You for taking the time to make this video. I appreciate it!

[@Skeeze20]

Very informative bud. Great job!

[@MichaelLovePDX]

We are in the process of remodeling my girlfriends bathroom... not because it needed a remodel... but because we had to replace the shower stall because it split and cracked because it wasnt bedded in properly. This was a beautiful shower stall that had "feet" but the rest of the pan was unsupported because the homeowner cut that corner that has so far, cost us $2k You have ONE CHANCE to do the job right... no matter what... bed that tub!!!

[@enduringcharm]

Unfortunately it isn't always that simple. When the manufacturers include feet, some of them prevent the use of a bedding mortar because you'll never get the feet all the way to the floor, which leaves a gap at the edge. A few weeks back I replaced an expensive Kohler soaking tub for a client. The tub was bedded in mortar originally, but it still cracked, and drained water onto two floors below. I found a replacement that would fit, also a Kohler, and this one had feet. I didn't have a choice of using bedding, especially since it had to fit exactly in the same spot (it was a drop-in style). But, I didn't like the idea of only four feet supporting the whole tub either. So, I made two more of my own feet and installed them on the bottom for additional support. Worked like a champ. These manufacturers could easily design a tub or pan with complete support and without the need for bedding, but they are too cheap to do so. The designs are intended to use the absolute least amount of material and the absolute least amount of labor. Let the installer figure out the rest! Anyway, bedding can often work, but sometimes you need to think of alternatives for support.

[@7688redsox]

Great video man.

[@johngirard6343]

Hi John. I have seen some videos where the cement board is brought down over the flange on the tub, leaving a 1/4 inch gap, and other videos that have the cement board sit on top of the flange. Is one method better than the other? Why does this matter? thanks

[@enduringcharm]

I have several other videos which address this. It comes down to the specific circumstances of the bath. If the plane of the wall that your tub or pan sits against extends through the whole room then you have no choice but to have the backerboard sit on top of the lip. If you tried to shim out the board to go over the lip you'd end up with a bump out in the wall. In other circumstances the plane of the wall abutting the tub or pan is already separated from the rest of the room, and shimming the backerboard out to go over the lip is not a big deal. If you have this opportunity you should take it. In either case, however, I use self-adhesive flashing over the lip and up the stud faces as a preventative measure so that water can never get behind the wall. You'll see this detail in my other videos.

[@brandonbeezernoid6509]

Great detailed video thanks!

[@jimmerrill7546]

New trends in bathroom

[@bgzwlz5119]

I use Hardie backer board for the shower substrate and after calling them they said the the board should not sit directly on the flange and you should leave a 1/4" gap, but you said the board should sit on the flange? Can you clarify this? Love the flashing idea. Also you said you line the framing with plastic. In the past I have opted for waterproof paint like red guard or aqua defense on top of the Hardie backer board and not used plastic as many people have said that using both can result in trapped moisture and mold production? Can you address this? Do you use a liquid waterproof membrane on top of the Hardie backer?

[@enduringcharm]

The flashing and the plastic behind the first three feet or so is hopefully never needed. It's there only for the future if the homeowner doesn't maintain the caulk or if there is a lot of framing movement, etc. Waterproofing, if you choose to do so, is a different thing. If required I use the Schluter system, but it isn't always necessary. See this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fIq2i4SmYr6Soas

[@mikepier1]

Great video. Just wondering, could you Hardibacker the entire floor first, then drop pan on top? I thought this would provide better base and waterproofing, or is it unnecessary ?

[@enduringcharm]

The point of hardibacker is not waterproofing but better adhesion for tile and resistance to rot long term. Cement board provides a much stringer bond to tile than plywood or other substrates. If moisture does get through grout lines or whatever it won't rot like plywood can or turn to mush like drywall. So, it doesn't really buy you anything to put it under a pan. I put down plastic or flashing at the edge of a pan or tub to prevent moisture from rotting plywood in that area. Plus, there are often gaps at the edge of the pan in relation to the floor due to leveling or due to wavy plywood. The backerboard, along with the tile, help hide that gap in the finished installation. Having said that, there have been several times when I did put backerboard down under the pan because the floor height in relation to the plumbing drain made it necessary. In other words, I was so close to not making the plumbing pitch work that I needed the additional 1/4 inch of height for the pan.

[@dvader3000]

A couple questions ,what size drill bit should i use and what counterzinc? Also,can i install the drain before i set the shower base in place? Thanks for your help.

[@enduringcharm]

To secure the pan to the studs you can use the screws that came with the pan or countersink a bugle head screw. Either way you want a drill bit just a little bit larger diameter than the screw threads. As for drains, there are two basic types, a glue style and the rubber doughnut style. The glue style requires you to attach the drain assembly to the pan first, have the pipe perfectly measured and cut, have the drain assembly and pipe pre-primed and ready with PVC or ABS adhesive, and then you drop the pan onto the pipe to glue it in place. You need to be within an 1/8 inch or so. The doughnut style is a drain assembly with a rubber "doughnut" in the middle, which fits over the pipe to seal it. You attach the drain assembly to the pan and then drop the pan over the pipe, then you wedge the rubber doughnut into place around the pipe. This style is more forgiving of installation time or error.

[@themusj]

By a bugle head screw, would this be like a drywall course screw? Installed my Shower Base today. Couple observations. Several time the technicians at Sackrite told me to mix it with less water than the directions, crumbly, but like a snowball. Found out in my opinion that is too dry. First time I laid it over the mix it was too thick making it too high. Had to skimmed it down two or three times and finally got it level. Afterwards, realizing it was too dry, I used the excess I had, remixed it with water and packed all along the edges where the pan had a couple inch gap. I have two left over bags sitting on each end on cardboard. Looks like I am 1/16" high on one side, but the bubble is in the center. My directions do not tell me to screw it to the studs, but the shower base is very similar to your base's flange. I believe I am going to screw it anyway since what is underneath while solid, may not be bonded since it was so "try." So much for the tech's advice.

[@miket5057]

I'm planning on replacing a fibreglass shower unit with a pan and tiles. The width of the alcove at the surface of the existing drywall is 34.5". Assuming .5" for the drywall thickness on each side then the width from stud to stud will be 35.5". What pan width should I buy? 34" or 36"? It seems like I'd have to narrow my stud to stud width for a 34 or worry about being too tight with a 36. Any suggestions?

[@enduringcharm]

I think you'll find that you have a rough opening for a 36 inch pan, which will actually measure 36 1/8 or 36 1/4 stud to stud. The drywall adds an inch and the spackle adds a little more.

[@miket5057]

@@enduringcharm thanks. To be safe I'll put a small hole at each stud to see what I'm faced with before ordering the pan. I'll watch all your videos for this project too.

[@AceDublB]

If the floor is Level do you still recommend a small amount of mortar poop? If it feels solid when standing on base I presume that is satisfactory and no mortar is needed?

[@enduringcharm]

See the directions from the manufacturer. Some units do require a mortar or similar base no matter if the the floor is level or not.

[@johnal4560]

Hi Do u have video showing the instillation of the drain i have no access from the bottom have to do all from top

[@enduringcharm]

For a shower pan installing a drain from the top isn't that difficult. You'll use the "rubber donut" style drain. Plumb the trap and leave the pipe sticking up a little high. Install the brass drain on the pan and dry fit the pan to mark the pipe length. Or, you can just leave the pipe long and cut it off with a dremel tool after you fit the donut gasket ring. Either way, with the pan in place for good, you'll slide the donut over the pipe and use a hammer handle or similar blunt tool to seat the gasket. I like to use clear silicone around the pipe which acts as a lubricant and then seals any irregularities. A different option is to use a PVC glued drain. In that case you'll fit the drain to the pan and dry fit the pan to mark the exact pipe length. Installation means applying pvc cement around the pipe and drain and then dropping the whole unit onto the pipe. The fit has to be perfect or it won't work.

[@lunaaaaa05]

I've been following your channel and have begun a remodel of my master bathroom. Thanks for the tips! I set my shower pan (32x60) in sturdy flex mortar on a level plywood subfloor. Days later when I step on it I can feel flex only in certain areas, especially around the drain. Accompanying the flex is a "sticky" sound, which I believe is the shower base separating from the foam support it was constructed with for support. Should I be concerned? I know some small flex will happen with a prefab base, but what I am seeing and hearing around the drain is giving me an uneasy feeling.

[@enduringcharm]

Well, two things. First, it's possible that either you didn't get full bedding near the drain or that the hole in the floor for the drain left part of the pan unsupported. You don't mention the brand, but some designs are more susceptible to flex than others. Second, all of these fiberglass or acrylic pans do tend to be noisy at times. No matter how well installed, it takes very little flex to cause a squeak or similar noise. It generally goes away in time. If you are concerned about the flex now is the time to take care of it. Assuming the bath is on the second floor, you may be able to open up a 12x12 hole in the ceiling below for access to the drain area. Then you can get a can of expanding foam meant for insulating around windows and doors and, aiming the straw into the hole for the drain from below, fill any gaps you can find. After that sets up overnight you should find less flex and noise. Then you can repair the ceiling hole. Other than that, all you can do is take the pan up, but that's probably a recipe for disaster. If it's just a little flex and the rest feels solid it's probably best just to leave it or try the foam trick.

[@lunaaaaa05]

@@enduringcharm it turns out that the pan was somewhat bound against the drain pipe and was causing the plastic to separate from the foam support. This was because the drain pipe was slightly off center and I had to pull on it a bit to get it through the drain hole. I disassembled the drain seal nut and the plastic settled again against the foam.

[@enduringcharm]

Oh, okay. Getting the drain to sit "naturally" at the right position is important. When the fit gets tricky I'll often do a dry fit rather than measure. A glued drain is the most nerve-wracking because you need to get everything lined up perfectly and you only have 30 seconds to get the pan and drain placed before the glue sets up. With access from the bottom it's a lot easier, but sometimes that isn't easily possible. Glad you worked out your issue.

[@jbird68]

@@enduringcharm I just demoed a corner shower and am replacing with a new Dreamline corner shower pan. I had to cut the old drain off because new ones have different threads. Glued in a coupling, dry fit the base with new drain attached, leveled it and measured for the length of the pvc pipe extension. I have the extension glued in and ready to place the pan on it. How would you add motar under the pan to level it while lining up the drain with the extension pipe? Also, when bonding pvc pipe you are supposed to rotate the pipe 1/4 turn. I wont be able to turn the pan for the pvc glue to cure. I will only be able to push it straight on. I am concerned about not using enough mortar to support the pan and then not being able to add more since it will be all glued together. My floor is not able to be leveled and will need to be supported by the mortar. I have 1 shot at getting it right.

[@enduringcharm]

@@jbird68 Sorry, I just saw this now. Sometimes YT doesn't alert me about a message when you respond to an older one instead of starting a new thread. So, in your situation I prefer to use the "donut" style drain assembly. I leave the drain pipe a little long, install the pan, install the rubber donut, and then cut the pipe to length. If you want to use a glue style drain, you need to dry fit the pan and get it just right. Use shims to get the pan level and sitting where it should, then fill in with the bedding. The pan should bottom out on the shims. Or, if you have access from a ceiling below, cut a hole in the ceiling and install the drain from below. I do that about three quarters of the time.

[@seffmoney]

Thumbs up for the technical term mortar poop! 15:35

[@brianbaker359]

Absolutely top notch professional video with so many excellent tips. Very helpful indeed.

[@FernandoRivasJ]

WoW extremely helpful

[@consumersgasman8376]

with the feet raised half and inch against the wall the other feet will now be above the floor level, you should drop a mortar poop wherever they are located to fill the gap, you make no mention of this. your thoughts ??

[@donmclain9600]

I am getting ready to remove an existing corner shower enclosure and install a new one. You videos are great, but I have one question. Why are some of your videos in closed caption and some are not? I am deaf and reading what you say is the only way I can get the most out of your videos. Thanks for all you do.

[@enduringcharm]

I haven't the faintest idea! Actually, I have no idea how any of them are closed captioned, since I have nothing to do with that. I'd have to research who does that and how. If you have questions, however, you're welcome to post them here and I generally respond quickly.

[@badchukar1823]

Love your videos!

[@rajtoor7951]

Excellent video, very well explained,as I am trying to install Maxx Cyrene foam backed shower pan kit on concrete basement floor which is not levelled, now after watching your videos it will help me up putting shower pan . Be thanks

[@Adesico87]

instead of tyvek, why not use Ditra waterproofing membrane? its very thin, and is bonded to plywood with a thin layer of thinset/motar? it would also be a seamless water proofing system if you use the Ditra for the rest of the bathroom.

[@enduringcharm]

I do sometimes use Ditra, and other times just sheet plastic. Putting down a barrier at the edge of the shower pan or tub isn't a requirement, it's just something I do because I think it will help make the installation more durable. If the homeowner keeps the shower curtain closed or towels off in the tub, if the homeowner uses a bath mat, if the caulking and grout are kept in good condition, if kids aren't left unsupervised in the bath, and if other things don't go wrong then there really shouldn't be a need for the barrier. That's a lot of "ifs!" The Tyvek will offer modest protection against weepage, plastic sheeting or Ditra will offer complete waterproofing. I don't recall this particular installation, it may have been that I wasn't that concerned about the issue for these homeowners or I happened to have extra Tyvek on hand.

[@alasdevictoria1568]

thank you!!!!

[@foggymtnbreakdown]

There are 9 "feet" on the bottom of the pan. You put two, 0.5" plywood "shims" under the pan. That means 7 of the "feet" have no 0.5" plywood "shims." Some of those 7 "feet" have to be hanging in the air. When you apply the mortar "blobs" you mention that you try to miss where the "feet" are. I would think that you would be sure to put some mortar blobs under the feet that are not hitting the floor because of the shims. Those "feet" are engineered to be at stress points in the pan. They are meant to have solid support under them, right?

[@enduringcharm]

Good question, let's unpack this. One pet peeve of mine is that shower base and tub manufacturers give conflicting advice on installation. In fact, I can show you installation guides which contradict themselves in the same document. So, out in the real world we are left to fend for ourselves. Manufacturers give out generic instructions and wash their hands of the matter. The feet engineered into the pan or tub are designed to spread the load but when shimming is necessary or if the floor isn't dead flat, that engineering becomes meaningless. At 15:13 I noted that I was creating new feet with the blobs of mortar. And, those feet are much larger than the little plastic posts. You can use the engineered posts as a guide, but it's pretty obvious where support needs to be, especially around the drain. If you do put down mortar over the entire surface that will support everything, but it can cause trouble if the plastic posts get too much mortar under them and leave the unit too high. And if you do rely on the posts then you must get every one perfectly supported or else you'll get squeaks. When I do not use mortar, I gob construction adhesive on each foot, which dries hard and provides support for any gaps. Incidentally, drilling through the lip to secure the unit to the studs is also not in the installation guide in this case, but I did it anyway because I have more experience in the real world than young engineers sitting behind a computer screen. Without those screws, squeaking will be inevitable.

[@foggymtnbreakdown]

@@enduringcharm Excellent! Thanks for that detailed and super-fast reply!! There is nothing in my house that is square or plumb or flat or on-center or ............

[@mthorne8237]

I have a corner shower that needs a new base. I have contacted the best of the best and no one seems to be able to install one. Are there any one who can help me get this done? It is a ceramic shower and I have been trying to get a base installed for 4-years. Please, can someone please help me?

[@enduringcharm]

Are you attempting to have the shower base replaced without tearing out the rest of the shower or bathroom? That could be why nobody is interested. It's not like Lego blocks where you pluck one out and replace it with another color. The entire bath is built around the pan or tub--the floor goes up to it, the walls come up to it. To replace a shower pan you must remove the wall surfaces and disturb the floor tile at a minimum. Most professionals will not attempt this kind of patch job because it leads to trouble and looks awful.

[@mthorne8237]

Thanks for responding to me.. No, I had a water leak in the shower which rotted my floor. The contractor went underneath the house and removed the the shower pan and installed the floor underneath the shower without replacing the base. Now, the shower is sitting on the floor and it cannot be used this way. It is a ceramic corner shower and every contractor that has come after him, says that they do not have access to a corner shower base. One contractor said that he could tear down the corner shower and put in a regular base shower but it would take up all the room in the bathroom and the door entrance to the shower will be only 28 inches wide and the entrance will be directly in front of the toilet and there will not be a door to fit the shower because of the very small entrance. I don't mind it being torn down; but I do want it to be usable and look good. If you would like to call me to see pictures, please call : 252 - 266-1808. I really do appreciate and need help and advice.. Thanks, again.

[@enduringcharm]

Oh boy. Well your description of the floor removal sounds pretty sketchy from the get-go. I'm not even sure what that fellow thought he was doing. And, it also sounds like you have a pretty tight space there. You must understand that shower pans and tubs are standard sizes now and those sizes are getting bigger because houses and bathrooms have become bigger in recent decades. So the availability of pans or tubs to fit small, unusual spaces is almost non-existent now. Many contractors probably don't want to be bothered. My guess is that your only option will be to tear up the whole room and start over. You can build a custom TILED shower floor and skip the pan. Schluter and other manufacturers make shower bases designed to be tiled over, and the sizes can be adjusted by the installer. I've used this method when no standard pan will work. Of course, it is the most expensive option. At the same time, the floor can be properly repaired from above with everything cleared out. Whatever that other fellow did from below could not be anything more than a patch job. I'm afraid you're in for a complete remodel. If you approach contractors with this in mind I think you'll have better luck finding somebody to help.

[@mthorne8237]

Thanks again for responding. My bathroom is actually pretty good size. I believe the design may be the problem with it having 2 doors and 2 windows with the commode and the shower being in corners. I have been heartbroken about this for 4 years now.. Prayfully, the right contractor will come to my rescue... Thanks for all your help.

[@derekp13]

thanks!

[@dvader3000]

Dumb question here,the mortar on top of the tyvek wont actually take away some grip from the surface? And also,is it ok to apply it directly over the plywood?

[@enduringcharm]

The point of the mortar is not to hold the pan in place but to keep it level and supported. The screws into the studs are what keep it secured to the wall. So, it isn't important that the mortar provide any kind of adhesive effect. I put the tyvek (or sometimes other materials) down just to protect the joint between the pan and the tile from seepage. But, it also has the effect of keeping the mortar from sticking to the plywood, which the next guy will appreciate when it is remodeled again. You can put the mortar right onto the plywood and no harm will be done.

[@dvader3000]

@@enduringcharm thank you so much. You really help me a lot. Thanks again sir.

[@laurapage9018]

enduringcharm Excellent video! I am installing a Swanstone base. Instructions say NOT to screw through the flange. Instructions also say to set the pan in a continuous bed of mortar. I had hoped to put plastic down before the mortar to keep it from adhering to the ply, but then what would keep the base from sliding around? Thank you for your help.

[@enduringcharm]

@@laurapage9018 Even if you choose not to screw through the flange to the studs, other materials surrounding the pan will hold it in place. You have backerboard coming down to the flange or over the flange (see my recent video about that subject) and you have beckerboard or another substrate coming up to the edge of the pan on the floor. Then you have tile and caulk installed over all that. The pan isn't going anywhere. Before you install the backerboard you can secure the pan in place with silicone caulk if you wish, just to keep it in one place while you work.

[@alecpokrandt3322]

Thank you sir

[@thetruthmatters7]

Wonderful! Thank you, and Jesus Loves you!

[@AHMDDI123456531]

Good ☺

[@Richie-uy6io]

Playback speed: 2X You're welcome.

[@Cute_anmie.]

Kinda sounds like joe pesci

[@bradlila875]

Dr. Anthony Fauci is that you?