Concrete Requirements for 2 Post Auto Lifts - Tutorial

Visit us at www.RedlineStands.com or call us at 901-351-4764 if you have a questions.

[@martinrodgers6114]

Excellent advice all round!! Thank you!

[@adhsaelsosa3687]

I need to buy a lift and you guys have the best information, thank you!

[@sourabhpandey9470]

We are available in india to supply u the two post lift in cheap price .. The product is make in india . Contact for any ,[phone]

[@davidbuckner6454]

Good to know I learned a good bit thanks

[@peanutbutterisfu]

They make drill bits made to drill through rebar. I am not a pro but I have installed a handful of lifts. When drilling the concrete you can kinda tell when it’s not really strong concrete it will drill through it very fast. Again I’m not a pro but if it drills out very fast then it’s a good idea to re pour some pads for the lift to be safe. When I was installing a lift in my garage at home the one side was 6in thick and other side only 3in. So I cut out two 4ft x 4ft sections of the floor, dug out the area to be 12in thick and then used a 1ft wide Auger to drill two 4ft holes in each section this was completely over kill but I would rather go over kill and have all that weight of the concrete. We then drilled into the existing concrete floor so the rebar went into the old floor to help it be even stronger. We used 5,000 psi concrete, I put burlap over the concrete when we were done and kept the burlap moist for 3-4 days which helps the concrete not crack when curing. I let the concrete cure for 30 days before installing the lift. The lift came with anchor bolts but they were only like 5in long and when you account for the thickness of the lift, shims and the nut the bolts are less then 4in deep in the concrete so I bought longer bolts I think they were 7-8in long. I’ve seen the concrete break under lifts and many times it looks like the concrete broke close to the top like the bolts weren’t very long. The funny thing is in the manual for my lift it states a minimum of 4in thick 3,000 psi concrete which might be fine but I don’t trust that. I think it even said something like if you poured a concrete pad it must be 2ft x 2ft but that seems so small I’d much rather have a 4ft x 4ft pad 12in deep to atleast have some good weight to keep that post from moving. Idk why anyone would ever go the bare minimum considering ur already doing the work to make the pad, it’s only gonna cost you a few hundred bucks more to make it a bit overkill so u know it’s gonna be safe.

[@gerardjones7881]

send me a few hundred bucks please.

[@Sparky5]

8" minimum concrete here for my lift. Tear out old concrete and re-pour a new slab making sure it's at least 8" throughout. You'll be surprised at the inconsistencies in thickness of existing concrete. Some parts were not even two inches thick!

[@randywooldridge9064]

Hard to find good answers. Due to every answer I needed you guys answered them all so no doubt I will be your next customer thank you very much! That just saves lives !

[@RedlineStands]

Wonderful to hear. Thanks for the business Randy!

[@AdversaryNemesis1124]

Excellent work Boss, it really gives everyone something to think about, before installing any lifts including myself....

[@ronaldngadziore4711]

hfjththrjgjthkf

[@gmancharger961]

I'm BUILD NEW HOME FOR MY CLASSIC CARS & GETTING LIFT FROM ADVANTAGE LIFTS THAT DONT REQUIRE BOLTING TO FLOOR I WILL PUT MY 88 SS MONTECARLO ON IT

[@miredquadrangle3963]

Very helpful video, will certainly keep your company in mind when I’m looking to buy a lift.

[@RedlineStands]

Glad to hear it. Hope this video is saving a lot of big accidents. Thanks.

[@ApprenticeGM]

Some really good information here - well done. Good to see sellers supporting customers this way. Some comments and tips to make this better: 1) When excavating deeper under posts, chamfer the edge (eg 45 degrees) back to the thinner slab (don't have 90 degree joins in thickness differences). Your photo of your shop showed part of this preparation being done. 2) When putting the tape on the drill bit, leave a flap loose so as it spins it is easy to see when it makes contact with slab (it swipes the dust). 3) Make some marks on existing slab (if replacing part with new, thicker concrete) or on the formwork aligning with reo or mesh, so when you do go to drill the anchoring bolt holes you DON'T drill into the steel! 4) Pay particular attention when screeding and floating at post locations to get it dead level. 5) Drill your bolt holes and grind the concrete perfectly level at post locations the day after the concrete is poured, not 28 days later. Green concrete is much easier to cut, grind and drill, and puts less stress on surrounding concrete and your tools. Don't actually USE the lifts for 28 days + as you want the concrete to harden to decent strength though. 6) As with all concrete slabs, keep it wet and cool for the first 7-14 days as much as possible. Slowing the hardening down early helps maximise strength long-term. This might be more of an important thing in warmer climes like Australia (my neck of the woods) than winter in Northern USA lol. 7) Finally, a pet peeve, please get the manufacturers / suppliers to use the term "concrete" not cement in their manuals and website guides. Cement is the grey powder that binds sand and aggregate into concrete, cement and concrete are different, you wouldn't use the terms radiator and coolant, or exhaust and muffler interchangeably, don't mix up cement and concrete either!

[@jaydoe5654]

As a concrete guy that was once certified as a tech ^ THIS COMMENT ABOVE

[@Natedoc808]

As a guy who poured concrete for a living, including vertical and over-vertical work building skateparks, ^^^ 100% on all of these. Regarding #3, you can mock up a jig with the bolt hole locations and use it to ensure no interference of rebar with bolt locations. If cutting out an old slab I recommend cutting out an "H" pattern with the bolts/posts located at the intersections of the vertical and horizontal legs as well as drilling, dowelling and epoxy setting the rebar into the existing slab

[@stuarth43]

correct hen butt welding twp plates say one at one inch, other at 1/2, you chamber the thicker way back

[@jjscustomfabrications8234]

Good info. Thank you for posting.

[@genecoppedge5972]

Good information, thank you.

[@nainka11]

Thank you and Well done !

[@RedlineStands]

Glad to hear these videos help folks.

[@walter.bellini]

Thank you for the informative video

[@nolimitjrod2224]

I had a pretty crappy shop floor , I cut out 5ft wide by 15ft long rectangle. Concrete was already 6inches deep but not level at all . I chose to go 13 inches deep 4K psi for strength the price point isn’t much different . Used rebar & mesh under where the posts would sit as well as hilti anchors and 2 nuts on the outter anchors of the base plates . And still gonna get lift jacks 😂

[@CHIBA280CRV]

Very helpful video , thank you..

[@DIY_PROFESSIONAL]

Very helpful. Thanks

[@69Polie69]

Thank you!

[@RedlineStands]

You're very welcome

[@williamduncan8097]

Very informative

[@Pierofelizzola]

EXCELENT video

[@rdspeedfab]

Super helpful video. Thank you

[@serega4087]

Great video, I never understood suiciders who try to cut around saving on labor or good concrete

[@mferrarorace]

Tensile strength of concrete is not what you are looking for, it is compressive strength. And is very important to compact the soil underneath the concrete use type 2 with compaction and rebar in the type 2. Dome shape it and hammer it in. Then pour the supporting footings with rebar spaced to avoid bolt patterns. Use a piece of plywood to make the bolt pattern template. Is easy. 6k psi concrete and don't go crazy on the fiber mesh. 3ft around each post will do it if you compact and dome the footing. Like an umbrella. Is easy and worth the 2 hours to do it.

[@TAMBestBuild]

They need to rewrite their manual. It makes you wonder how competent they are if they don't even know the difference in tensile strength, compressive strength, cement and concrete.

[@jacobormsby9241]

@@TAMBestBuild you actually need both, on a 2 post lift there is a rotating moment right in the middle of 2 posts making them want to cave in and pull UP on the outside. So you need compressive strength to support the weight AND tensile strength so the posts dont pull the concrete up on the outside.

[@philipbrown6500]

Just about ALL manufacturers specify a base of no less than 48” x 48”.

[@kennethkimmy2522]

Tell that to the engineers . Tensile testing a sample core from each truck on a bridge pour. Common pour strength is 3000 lbs . That 3000 lbs on an inch by inch steel rod before failure Ie cracking . 3500 and 4000 are higher Portland mixes usually placed for driveways .

[@dieseldime]

You do need tensile strength as much as compression. When those 2 post are sharing the load between them 6 feet in the air the want to pull in towards each other, the only thing stopping them is the anchors bitting into the slab and the cross over on the to top if it's an overhead lift. That is why typically there are more anchors on the outer edge of the base than the inner.

[@northwestsuburbs20]

i just did one for a maxjax 6000lbs lift we went 6inches deep witha 8500psi mix for airport runways and bridges. very solid and cure time was very short was able to lift a car 3 days later as the concrete cures very fast to above 3000psi with 24hrs. it was $44 a bag

[@peanutbutterisfu]

Where did u buy the concrete

[@lumberjackdreamer6267]

Very good video. It makes me want to buy from your company.

[@RedlineStands]

LOL. Thanks! We're happy to have the business

[@luckyhack78]

my 2 post lift, old ravaglioli KPN124 (2500kg) mounted on concrete of 30cm thick with steel under it and 5x5 meters 16x16ft y think for usa , the post lift has only 4 bolts to fix it in the concrete , good weight distribution

[@AlexTheGrumpyOne]

Hi there Ive made video on my car lift installation and review and its quiet handy as my model is 2 post H base and only needs 4 inch concrete. Check it out as it might be quiet helpful. its a single phase lift, but also comes in 3 phase model.

[@obfuscated3090]

BTW if anyone buys a used three phase lift solid state phase converters for such small motors are easily affordable.

[@rihanslife8410]

Thanks

[@muddywater6856]

Funny.... I don't remember a single mechanical engineer in any of my concrete and structures classes. But it has been 30 years since I graduated with a civil engineering degree.

[@Switching-Cars]

what is you have like a slope that start fron 6 inch thick on the side and goes to 4 inch in the middle for the drain ?

[@LunaDaSavage]

Excellent video 👌🏻

[@lesgarten]

Awesome!

[@brendonrobbins6759]

I've just gone through this with my own lift and had to cut out 2 pads in the existing slab, tied rebar back into the slab and made it 8 inches thick and cut back under the existing slab. One thing that you said was wait 28 days for it to cure - I thought the same but the concrete worker who poured my pads and then following up with 2 mates who are engineers reckon within 3 to 5 days it's at full strength (32Mpa) and waiting 28 days is pointless.

[@lcee6592]

They are wrong. Wait the full 28-30 days.

[@kermets]

One very important thing missing.....at 4:00 the wire mesh in sitting on the ground with NO standoffs or chairs as sometimes called so the mesh is not doing its job this way.

[@RedlineStands]

You're exactly correct. Thank you for mentioning that. When we poured it, we pulled it up a once it was sitting in wet concrete, but even if we didn't, we added fiber to the mix so that alone should have covered us. But still, good eye!

[@kermets]

Cool, trouble is also once you pull up the mesh the layer stands on it again to screed the concrete, the firbres are to short to do as good a job as the mesh and I have seen it crack also......The mesh once cracked will still hold together

[@nainka11]

Do you have any info on the Stenhoj DS2-M ? Thanks

[@robertoferrari5397]

...i remember as a kid putting cars on cinder blocks and crawling under the car to do work and not even think twice about it..😮😮!...it's amazing i'm still alive.

[@Joe-qv7jk]

God is good.

[@Bread996]

Rebar cutter. They’re expensive, but you’ll get your holes through.

[@josephjohnson6626]

How big a lift did you need for that truck?

[@homewrecker44]

You don't need to move the lift if you hit rebar. You can use a rebar cutter bit to get through it. There are also concrete bits that can handle rebar as well. Maybe update this video to reflect that.

[@RedlineStands]

I wish. KZbin does not allow me to reload a video over an old copy to update it.

[@bigears4014]

My old hoist has a 4' long base plate (beam) why the modern ones are do small is beyond me

[@davewolf3115]

Nice video and very helpful. I am installing a new 3-stall garage floor to accommodate a future 9000 2-post lift. Just like in the video, I was thinking of varying the concrete thickness of my new concrete floor. Perhaps I could add 2 to 4 inches of extra depth, for a 6 foot swath, across the width of all three bays? This would provide lots of post-install location options over the thicker concrete. However, I do question how varying concrete thickness across a pour can effect the quality of the cure, if it does all. Any comments?

[@RedlineStands]

Disregard any worries about the concrete curing due to varying thickness sir. It needs 28 days to fully harden. As long as you go above and beyond the minimum requirements specified in your lift's manual, you'll be more than fine. Thanks.

[@davewolf3115]

@@RedlineStands Sounds like a plan comrade. Many thanks!

[@davewolf3115]

@@RedlineStands I had one more question regarding the use of rebar in my new floor. Will it hurt anything to put rebar “only in” the 6 foot swath area, versus the whole floor?

[@RedlineStands]

@@davewolf3115 I don't put rebar under the lift at all. I put it in the footer around the edges. I put wire matting under the lift.

[@RJTracing]

I followed the guidelines in the PDF 9000AC&F and I had ZERO issues with mine.. I've had my 9k asymmetric for over 3yrs now and love it. I do have a question base on your video... I see you have some sort of screw in/telescopic pad, do you guys sell those for my lift? I have the 35mm pin hole. Thanks

[@RedlineStands]

Hard to say. Please email good pictures and measurements to [e-mail] and we'll forward them to folks that can tell us. Thanks!

[@ninegeorge]

I wish I'd known this. My slab is 5" wire mesh 5000 psi

[@Portal12345678910]

What size rebar did you use? #4 or #6? I have a bendpak 10k lift and the manual calls for #6 but I’m not sure if that’s over kill. I see most ppl using #4 rebar

[@RedlineStands]

Good question, but I'm sorry to say that I do not know. I didn't pour the slab, and I didn't pay any attention to the size of the rebar the contractor was using.

[@thearchitect4726]

i recently put a new shed up for a workshop. ran a 32mpa slab at 8 inches thick, double mesh (SL82) and a thickened edge beam, trench mesh and z bars linking the mesh. The old shed slab is sitting under the new one, it too is 100mm thick. had its own piers and steel, i had the hoist on it and it cracked radially across the center with a 2 post lift. i would use nothing less than 8 inch thick slab with double mesh and at least piers under it or raft slab like i opted for hoist applications.

[@RedlineStands]

I'm not sure what happened with your slab, but something went terribly wrong. There isn't a single lift manufacturer in the country, as best I'm aware, that calls for an 8" thick slab. Not Challenger, nobody.

[@thearchitect4726]

@@RedlineStands Well, that's what the engineer called for that specified the requirements. 100mm slabs are simply not strong enough, to support a hoist, a shed and mezanine floors . I can confirm radial cracks under the hoist on the old existing slab caused by stresses of the hoist. Since then, I would run nothing less than the concrete and steel specified, Safety first. I have 4 150mm long 5/8 dynobolts holding it down. The hoist is used for commercial purposes on my property also and i lift up to 3 Tonne vehicles on it also. And it is an older Molnar hoist the non clear floor version with a hump you need to drive over. If this type of hoist what sits on a box tubing base spreading the load over a larger surface area caused a 100mm slab to crack, what do you think a clear floor hoist would do to a slab 100 mm thick ?

[@jacobkelley519]

@@RedlineStands the atlas floor plate 12k lift calls for 200mm almost 8 inches

[@websurfer1585]

The thing i can't get my head around is how these set ups resist the incredible forces that must be pulling the two posts together, with the weight of a vehicle on the arms, the forces are not just vertical, but surely must be trying to pull the tops of the posts in towards each other?

[@RedlineStands]

Correct. The concrete provides the strength that keeps them from falling inward. The concrete is literally the foundation of strength for the lift.

[@hmann34]

They are, and the force is called a moment force. Each lift will be engineered to account for that in how large and far the arms will slide or project, the size of the posts, the base plate, and number of anchors used to secure it. Which is why it is important, and the purpose of this video, to follow each manufacturer's concrete requirements. It is all designed so there will not be any issues and why each lift has a max rating.

[@slarsen32]

This is why it is better to get a two post lift that has the cables crossing at the top where there is a beam holding the tops from coming inwards. Excellent point though if you use the floor cable routing.

[@jochoa72jv]

Can a 2 inch 2by 3 feet steel plate be installed under base to get it installed at a 3 inch concrete by adding more anchors on the steel plate

[@RedlineStands]

You'll have to hire an engineering firm for that one sir. I'm sorry but I can't risk the lawsuit by answering your question.

[@thechestnutking736]

2 inch base plate is way too thick lol. All you need something like a 1/2 or 5/8. I have some 3/8 laying around for free and I’m using that.

[@stepheneggert9474]

Bye an inground lift..safer bet..mine is 67 yrs old been repiped , this yr..pulled out inspection done.. for safety.. reinstall.for another 60 yrs of service..it's a Rotary.model FP 46H. American made America steel.

[@perillouss3506]

You call for the tensile strength of the concrete to be 3000 psi, but concrete is usually tested for compressive strength.

[@RedlineStands]

That may be, but I sell lifts for a living and I can promise you the installation manual of every lift I've ever seen calls for a specific tensile strength. Normally it's 3000 to 4000 and it varies from one lift to the next. See below as an example. The American made Challenger CL10V3 calls for 3,500 psi concrete. www.redlinestands.com/manuals/CL10%20manual.pdf

[@perillouss3506]

@@RedlineStands The literature doesn't specify tensile or compressive strength but tensile testing of concrete is not a common practice. The tensile load is carried by the steel or fibers added to the concrete.

[@RedlineStands]

@@perillouss3506 Checked with Challenger and they said, "The PSI (pounds per square inch) measures the compressive strength of concrete." Right you were sir; good catch!

[@philipbrown6500]

Not a simple mistake. More like a critical mistake. Probably best to seek advise from the installation manual or the manufacturer. They know for certain what standards you'll need to meet.

[@perillouss3506]

@@philipbrown6500 Yeah, i would have flunked out of engineering if i had made that mistake. I don't usually comment on videos but some things that contradict my education, i have to commment on.

[@RAMIREZdividebyzero]

I see a typo in that pdf. That 3000 psi is compressive strength. It's tensile capacity is limited to only 410psi at 3000 f'c. If cast in anchors 3/4" Jbolts with proper confinement #4 bar should suffice. I would not use screw anchors for these things. Also great crack control! Excellent point about guilding that away from the baseplate!

[@victornaja7927]

hi please i want to know to tall is this lift you using on the 3500 truck you have up in the air. is it the extra tall or the 12 ft lift.

[@RedlineStands]

It's this lift www.redlinestands.com/catalog/lifts-c-290/automotive-lifts-c-290_138/2-post-car-truck-lifts-c-290_138_139/launch-11k-asymmetric-2-post-clearfloor-lift-ali-certified-p-2424

[@mikedowning8506]

what are you using to anchor to the concrete??

[@upnorth5465]

Either wedge anchor it if it's existing concrete or if your pouring a slab for your lift I would suggest using j-bolts in a jig specific for your lift as it is way stronger and no drilling is required.

[@eastmanresearch3143]

I have a 3000 psi 5.5" slab w/ rebar every 24" across the entire slab in my shop. It's been cured for 7 years. Do I need to cut out a section or can any of your lifts work with this? I am looking at a 9k lift for some of my vehicles.

[@RedlineStands]

You "should" be fine. The reason I'm using "should" in quotations is that the true correct answer is actually this. You should always consult the manual of the car lift you're considering and make sure the required specs given in that manual are satisfied. Some car lifts have wide baseplates that allow for thinner concrete, while others have small baseplates that require stronger concrete. At the end of the day, you need to check the manual and let the manual serve as the word of God...so to speak.

[@torsten6777]

Drill a hole to see if you really have 5.5” where the lift goes. Concrete guys are not always that exact when pouring slabs.

[@eastmanresearch3143]

I did the foundation prep, so it's 5.5" minimum. compacted and formed the whole thing. It was an engineered slab. @@torsten6777

[@farmlifer]

Amazing that same 12k lift is now $7,300. Here it was $4,800 just 2 years ago.

[@RedlineStands]

Right. About 24 fit into a container. 2 years ago a container was $4000. Now they're $21,000. That's $708 per lift just in shipping costs. Say nothing of the costs of labor and materials. The world has gone crazy.

[@farmlifer]

@@RedlineStands Absolutely! I am a small carrier in the freight business myself and know what you are talking about first hand. Surcharge on materials at the moment is out of hand we are hanging on by a thread all across the country. Very nice lifts none the less.

[@hhazelhoff1363]

That so cool, I love paying full retail for everything. Hope the price continues to rise. Awesome

[@upnorthyooper1196]

If you have to keep retorqueing the bolts, then are they not stretching? At what point would they fail?

[@RedlineStands]

That's a good question, and frankly, I'm not sure. I don't worry about retorqueing mine very often as I'm typically only lifting 3k lb cars with my 11k lb lift, which has 6" of concrete. However, in the rare event I'm about to lift my diesel, I make sure they're tight, which normally requires less than 1/8 of a turn. Given I lift my diesel about once a year, it would take a very long time in my case to affect anything.

[@Natedoc808]

Just some notes regarding the manual and its information: PSI rating of concrete is compressive strength not tensile strength, and use of the term "cement" instead of concrete is very misleading as cement is the grey Type II portland that is an ingredient in concrete.

[@sullie35]

I just bought a 9000 AC Titan 2 post lift. I had my cement floor poured with 4500psi with fibers and it's about 4 to 5 inches thick but where the lift will be..we dug that out 4ft square where total depth is around 10" thick. They did not put rebar screen in the cement. The titan came with 5.5" long anchors but since I have now rebar screen...should I get longer anchors to be on the safe side??

[@RedlineStands]

I'd say you're already on the safe side, but longer anchors is definitely additional assurance.

[@philipbrown6500]

You have eaar surpassed the manufacturers recommendations and the necessary requirements of OSHA for installing and operating your lift. 5.5" anchor bolts are adequate.

[@philipbrown6500]

No! You have already exceeded the manufacturers reccommendations. You don't need 5" or 10" of concrete. You need 4". You don't need rebar. You don't need longer bolts.

[@sullie35]

@@philipbrown6500 they state minimum requirements is 4" 3500psi There is nothing wrong with 10" of concrete or 4500psi. And yes Titan came and installed my lift and told me it was a great idea that I did these measures. Extra Reassurance

[@philipbrown6500]

@@sullie35 Titqn did not comeand install your lift. An independent subcontractor installed your lift. Titan, nor any other lift manufacturer, employs installers. Of course they told you that it was good and gave you extra reassurance. Did you expect them to tell you to your face that you're an idiot and that you wasted time and money. They waited until they left your place and laughed out loud together in the truck on their way home. If you look in the installation manual that came with your lift, you'll find what Titan and all other manufacturers told or will tell you, that the required thickness of concrete for installing your lift is 4" of 3500 psi concrete. No mesh, no wire, no rebar, no BS. Just specifications laid down by engineers employed by the lift manufacturer, the lift manufacturer that carries the liability and has been in business fot years and years. Just seems to me that..... If extra concrete, mesh, wire, rebar or anything else were needed to safely install and operate a lift, surely in all of the years that all of the manufacturers have been in business and with the probably hundreds of thousands, if not millions of lifts that have been manufactured, installed and operated around the World, somebody somewhere would have said something to somebody. Wouldn't you think? I guess there will always be people who think they know more than people who design, test, market, stand behind and are liable for the products they market. And there will always be people who don't want you to tell them the truth. They want you to agree with them and confirm for them that what they already believe is the truth. "The highest form of ignorance is to reject something you don't know anything about." Wayne Dyer.

[@eddykirksey8698]

I'm looking for a 2 post lift, but I need it for outside. Any suggestions?

[@dustingilmore2710]

I've seen it done, but it leaves all the components exposed. Make sure you cover the power unit.

[@bigtush85]

So is it ok to do 3 sections 4 inches on top and bottom and the middle 6 inches for concrete for the stands?

[@dustingilmore2710]

I don't quite follow your question, but what I can tell you with absolute certainty is that overkill is a beautiful thing. Pour as much as you can stand.

[@bigtush85]

@@dustingilmore2710 if I did a 30ftx12ft the section 10ftx12ft on top section is 4in concrete middle is 10ftx12ft 6in concrete and the bottom 10ftx12ft 4in. I kind of seen it on ur video, I want to do this for a garage I want to build.

[@aecrim1969]

Funny how he has a depth gauge on the hammer drill and he is using tape on the bit (which is not wrong BTW).

[@thereplacementfordisplacement]

Have you seen successful installations of 9000 lbs 12' lift where an existing 3-4" thick slab with wire mesh was replaced only under the lift baseplate area? I was wondering if cutting out the concrete in a 6" perimeter from the base plate fasteners and doubling the thickness with excavation would be enough assurance? If the new concrete is anchored to the old with horizontally drilled and epoxy set rebar to miss anchors and use wire mesh everywhere else would this avoid a larger slab replacement? Trying to avoid calling out a concrete truck, would rather work with bags, this is for personal use, vehicle storage and repairs. I'm not asking you to assume liability just what you have seen done successfully or failures you have seen done like this.

[@thechestnutking736]

Just simply cut you out a 2’x2’ piece of metal about a 5/8 or 1/2 thick and put it under your post base plate.

[@kcbill502]

Im wanting to pour a stationary pad 13 x 20 will 4 inchk thick slab work...?.only want a 9000lb lift.

[@RedlineStands]

Go ahead and make it 6" thick. Won't cost you much more for all that piece of mind.

[@kcbill502]

@@RedlineStands Thanks for the info...Will do...

[@philipbrown6500]

Yes

[@S30Build]

do your posts wobble at the top when lifting a car?

[@RedlineStands]

I'm sure if I set a dial caliper on a magnetic base I could measure deflection and there would be some, but there's not enough that I can see it and that it worries me during a lift.

[@highstepperARF]

If I’m not sure what PSI my concrete floor is, can I still buy a lift? We have no fiber, but we do have wire mesh reinforcement...

[@RedlineStands]

Maybe, maybe not. Without knowing the specs of your concrete it's impossible to guarantee safety. All you can do is take steps to minimize the chance of an accident. Call us at 901-351-4764 ext 1 if you want to discuss.

[@philipbrown6500]

Contact a qualified lift installer. He will have the answers you seek and any solutions necessary.

[@philipbrown6500]

Concrete companies, as a norm, don't sell anything less than 3500 psi concrete. Call as many as you need to in order to confirm this. You may find some that are willing to special mix some for you but it would be a special order. 3500 psi is the stanxard in concrete.

[@obfuscated3090]

You can always rent a concrete saw. cut a hole and pour an amply deep footing for each post. If needed Sonotube and others make tubes for that purpose, they look like the tube inside a toilet paper roll but of course big enough for foundations. You can also cut (for example) a piece of heavy beam two or three feet long, weld a plate to your top end, and pot that in your concrete. There is another, easier option without cutting the floor. People forget steel is reasonably affordable (and mechanics have many of the right friends at scrapyards while todays prices are low) and while lift makers must consider base plate shipping sizes and cost in volume when they buy steel you are free to buy (how large is your call) much larger plates of say 1/2 or thicker steel to spread the load much wider and use more anchors. There's no limit to laying plate as long and wide as you want to go. Mag drills can be had at any rental store and a rotabroach, not a drill bit, is the slick way to make holes in plate. You can use a plasma cutter (yet another good excuse to buy one) or an acetylene or LP cutting torch (which every mechanic should already have as they cut, gouge, heat for torch bending, gas weld, braze, solder, and other useful jobs) will make short work of cutting holes in plate. Gross overkill is a good thing. Your local steel supplier can cut to size if that's not convenient for you.

[@philipbrown6500]

@@obfuscated3090 if you cut out a section of concrete to pour back thicker where your lift will mount, yhe cut out section must be z minimum of 48"x48".

[@filmart430]

What do u guys charge to deliver and install?

[@nathanbasham6920]

We don't do installations but you can give us a call Monday morning and we'd be glad to help you with a shipping quote. 901-351-4764. Thank you

[@QuebecLimaCharlie]

Why doesn’t the manual reflect your recommendations?

[@RedlineStands]

Because I don't own the companies that manufacture the lifts sir. I'm the reseller, not the manufacturer.

[@MR-gl1fs]

Should properly epoxy threaded rod instead of anchor bolts that often fail or loosen over time.

[@RedlineStands]

I agree with half this statement. I like to use epoxy, and expand my anchors while the epoxy is still wet. That gives me the anchor holding in place by mechanical means, as well as epoxy.

[@saintsmc1]

A hammer drill bit will cut through rebar without a problem if you're using quality carbide bits!

[@davidanderson3999]

I have 4” slab but I have 5,600 psi concrete in it 26 years ago power trowel, and no cuts in slab, I have fly ashas base under slab, and no cracks have developed, will this support a 9,000 lbs lift?

[@RedlineStands]

A fly ashas base under slab? I have no idea what that is sir. You need to cross reference the specs found in the manual of whatever lift you intend to buy against the specs of your slab. A question like this is not one that I prefer to answer at all, because it assumes liability with no chance of reward. If I tell you "yes" and it works fine, I make nothing, but if I tell you "yes" and I'm wrong, your wife will sue me over your death when the slab breaks and drops a vehicle on you. I'm sorry but the letigious nature of modern American society and the dime-a-dozen supply of ambulance-chasing attorneys makes me overly cautious to help folks anymore.

[@davidanderson3999]

@@RedlineStands fly ash if what’s left from cole been burnt in power plants,they used to give it away until they found out how good it is for under layment for interstate and concrete pads

[@davidanderson3999]

@@RedlineStands I get not want to be lieable, I am flipping between a post lift or the floor lift, similar to my motorcycle lift but made for trucks, my shop has 10’6” walls so I know I won’t be standing under any lift, and mostly I would use for suspension and wheels/ tires/ brakes/ axel work, thanks

[@RedlineStands]

@@davidanderson3999 Consider a 2 post floorplate style lift. You'll find you can probably still roll around under the vehicle on a stool and that'll be much better. For suspension work, a 2 post is the way to go for sure

[@davidanderson3999]

@@RedlineStands that’s kinda what I was thinking.also I have A100 plates if I remember right they are 40” by 30” so I could weld them to the foot pads and increase the load area, 3/8” thick just a idea I have floating around

[@markanthony3275]

Buy a rebar finder ...Zircon Metalli Scanner MT6

[@gerardjones7881]

some misinformation on anchors in this video. Rebar bits easily cut through rebar, lift does NOT need to be relocated at all.

[@kingyankee69]

Anyone familiar with concrete requirements for 12k 2 post around SC? Having a 25x35 slab done on side of existing garage and getting mix reviews. I'm going 6" for slab at 4000psi and 12" around the posts. My question with #5 rebar is the spacing. What's the minimum spacing without over kill.

[@RedlineStands]

Just do a couple layers of wire mesh spaced a few inches apart in the middle. Add fiberglass to the mix, and you'll be fine. You don't want to hit that rebar when drilling for anchors.

[@kingyankee69]

Should I still use rebar around the outside of the lift in the slab? Just not around the posts and how long are the anchors bolts for the towers?

[@RedlineStands]

@@kingyankee69 Certainly won't hurt to do that if you want. The anchors will come with your lift. You'll know how long they are when you buy the lift.

[@kingyankee69]

@@RedlineStands thank you!!

[@timmyers4950]

put a pipe brace on mine

[@arobjavan9481]

3000 psi is not a tensile strength but compressive strength. Concrete does not have that much tensile strength, that is why you use rebar in Concrete to give it tensile strength. You should hire an engineer to design the foundation and the placement of rebar in a foundation detail.

[@robert4747]

You need to do something about your sound. I had the TV cranked up to 80 & could barely hear you. Plus the level of volume kept changing. I tried your video on several devices. Otherwise a great video

[@howardmoody9379]

your diagram says not less than 5",however, you said 4"?

[@RedlineStands]

Honestly, I don't even doubt it. The truth is that trying to make these videos without one single silly error occuring is the kind of thing I think I could only accomplish if KZbin was the only thing I did for a living. It sounds so easy to achieve video perfection in conversation, but it's completely another to produce 10 minutes of content and never screw up once.

[@howardmoody9379]

I get it. Thanks for the videos but this concrete thing is causing me to lose sleep. Is it 4 or 5?

[@RedlineStands]

@@howardmoody9379 You gotta consult your manual. Some lifts call for 4" and others require thicker, like 6". The size of the baseplate, capacity, and other things all determine what's needed.

[@1coppertop]

Why dont they put a separating beam across the top. Problem solved

[@Doucettedon]

I’m going to guess 99% of installations will be in pre existing slabs.

[@herbb8412]

“Wire mesh” should be placed in the top 1/3 of the slab. It’s purpose is to hold the surface cracks tightly together. It offers virtually no structural strength. And hard to believe the manual actually specifies “four inches of CEMENT”. There’s a failure and a lawsuit coming I’m sure.

[@slip0n0fall]

Incorrect. As the top of the slab see's mostly compressive forces, the bottom of the slab sees tensile (imagine the slab 'bowing' downward with force applied from above). Concrete is good at compression, poor at tension. The mesh is added toward the bottom to combat the low tensile strength.

[@boobacockaa]

Can’t hear you.

[@stuarth43]

way off beam mate, the pads under mine are 39x39 x 28 inch, the weight of the pads are more tha the 5700 lbs of my landrover D4

[@philipbrown6500]

Before you pour extra thick concrete, consult the lift manufacturer's recommendations in the manual. The requirements listed in the manual are safe and have been safe for decades. It is not necessary to over do it. You may check with your installer as well. Anyone who recommends more than is required by the manufacturer is claiming to be smarter than dozens of engineers and architects. Think about it.

[@dustingilmore2710]

We have thought about it. As a matter of fact, the person making this suggestion is...wait for it.... a Mechanical Engineer. Think about it...

[@philipbrown6500]

@@dustingilmore2710 ....And he knows more than a of the other engineers in the World?

[@dustingilmore2710]

@@philipbrown6500 look fella, it's over kill. The machine gets all of its structural rigidity from the concrete base so the thicker and stronger, the better. End of discussion..

[@philipbrown6500]

You can end the discussion if you choose but do so knowing that everything you propose here is above and beyond what is deemed necessary by the lift manufacturers. It never ceases to amaze me how many people will post a video explaining something they don't know anything about.

[@dustingilmore2710]

@@philipbrown6500 so I encourage people to go above and beyond the mfg specs and it's a problem for you??? That means I don't know what I'm talking about??? Wow man, you're like arguing with my ex wife. No logic. I guarantee I know 10x more about this than you. Go bother someone else troll.

[@narcissistinjurygiver2932]

after nearly being killed by my lift breaking the concrete i had someone make a top brace for my lift. it is not too expensive and can save your life.

[@slarsen32]

Very important point and advantage of using the top cable lifts that use a beam to keep the tops connected and preventing the tops moving inward. I also use 4 ft outriggers to give greater stability. I had a well used second hand commercial lift once that came from the factory with outriggers and a structural member for the cables to pass through at the floor level. Two post lift did not even need to be bolted down!

[@narcissistinjurygiver2932]

@@slarsen32 how do you make the outriggers?

[@teslacube]

THE WORD IS....not t r u m p it is now COOL! wait for it......so cool