Condensor woodgas

[@mazdalorean]

Luk, that's a clever way to cool the gas. I'm used to seeing people only preheat the air going into the gasifier with this arrangement. I think I will be adopting this idea at some point. Thanks for the show. Joe

[@LukVanhauwaert]

Joe, Thank you for watching. I somewhat got the idea of improving my condenser filter after seeing your last video. Saw there you had some problems with moisture gas and recognized the same in our test rig. it motivated me to get my lazy bum together and at last do something about it. Because realy, the preheating of the gas (we do this with a heating ring around the gas intake tube just before entering the engine) is a lazy's man solution. Also it makes the gas expand again and thus theoretical more weaker. How much weaker is still to find out. On top of that the heating ring consumes a lot of electricity wich together, with the weaker gas, takes the overall efficiency of our production system further down.

[@theDriZzleRGasifier]

Maybe you should have a look on all the other video's on our Channel. The unique DriZzleR gasifier design produces clean engine grade gas without the need of "nozzles". Our concept has nothing in commen with the "Imbert" type of gasifier. Luk Vnhauwaert

[@MrSpankyxiv]

a combination tromp and ram pump can eliminate nearly all of your hassles here when compressing... if you're happy with 100-120 psi. Very low teck and dirt cheap solution to both scrubbing and compressing. also... this "tar and crud" you can call it creosote or you could call it Bio crude and bio fuel. if you force the wood smoke through a downward sloping pipe (against convection)(inch and a half by 20 ft long) and drain the bottom of the pipe at intervals through the underside you can pull various grades of unrefined oil and fuels which are the very contaminants fowling up your syn gas when you go to compress it. good luck

[@LukVanhauwaert]

Thank you for commenting. Thank you also for you sugestions. Luk

[@frenchcreekvalley]

I see in another comment, that you tried a water scrubber (bubbler). You said that the water temperature "rises and rises". Of course, this is to be expected since you are adding heat. But were you cooling the bubbler water? Another related question: With the gas cooling system that you are now using, how do you cool that water? The reason that I ask is that, with my Chinese JXQ-10 gasifier, I can keep the output gas temperature down to about 100 degrees F when I use about 1 1/2 gallons per minute of 60° F tap water in a heat exchanger to cool the bubbler water. But, when I tried to eliminate the use of tap water by adding a radiator and fan, using automotive antifreeze, making it a self contained unit, I couldn't keep the gas temperature below about 120° F.

Hi Pete, Nice you commented. In the previous Bubbler test I added a tank of some 500 litres water. As you know I am still looking for the holy grail of automatic continious running the gasifier. So the tank stayed fairly cool after some 6 hours run, but then went up uncontrolable. In the test I want to do now I will run the cooling water from the tank through the cooling coil wich will be connected to either in winter with my floor heating and in summer connected to a swimming pool. The hottest bubler water will be the condensing water that is dripping of the cooling coil. It will be maintained at same level and regulary drained off if exeeding that level. All will be clear in a next video. Just went talking with a welder shop and hoping they adapt my cooler/concensor soon.

[@ravelkoff3549]

I did some testing with used soup cans 99/119 which I filled with steelwool and stacked them together. My aim is to get 30-40°C cooled gas. It seems to work ;) On the other way your idea of a water pipe around the reactor itself inspired me to insulate the reactor with a perlite/plaster mix covered by a bigger pipe around which I'm bending the water pipe. The result is enclosed heat inside the reactor and only the waste heat heats the flowing water. So I can measure about 1150 °C inside the reactor and water exits with nearly 60°C and can be used for heating or other purposes. But to be honest - my reactor is far away from continous runs at this time. Bridging and clogging ia always a serious matter. I'm thinking about a kind of stirrer inside the reactor to prevent it from clogging or bridging up.

[@theDriZzleRGasifier]

Dear Hutti, In search of a good and cheap alternative to our expensive bag filter house, I tested a filter with cheap disposable media. First layer wood-chips, second layer ceramic wool and end filter, a big truck air-filter. Despite that the condenser worked fairly well in condensing out much of the water in the gas, too much moisture still made it to the truck air-filter. The truck air filter being a paper filter got slowly wet and after 12 hours running I had to stop because of too much pressure drop. Funny you mentioned steel wool, because yesterday I ordered 5 kg stainless steel wool wanting to cut the paper out of the filter house and replace it with the steel wool. Wonder what your experience was about the breathing capacity of the steel wool and did you use ordinary or stainless steel wool and what grade did you use? 0000, 000, 00, 0 or 1?

[@ravelkoff3549]

@@theDriZzleRGasifier I use ordinary SteelWoolBalls for the kitchen. I ordered about 100 balls and pull them in length and width. The pressure stays at it's level and seems not to be influenced by them. I tested it today and was very impressed how much moisture came out. Anyway I have to build more stacks until every drop is condensed out. I drilled my grate bigger to 10mm each hole and ran my drizzler about 2 hours constantly until it clogged again. Nice effort :) The only thing I wonder about is a colorless flame which I have to inspect again when it's dark outside. I was not able to find any tar in my machine again and wonder why. Until yesterday everything was tary and the collectors were black as hell, but today everything was fine.

[@theDriZzleRGasifier]

@@ravelkoff3549 Try to figure out what you did better than yesterday. Never change by testing more than one parameter. otherwise it is difficult to see what item had the good effect. The most important rule by a DriZzleR is getting the suction right in order to get high enough temperature. Maybe the steelwool kept your gasifier better breathing thus more temperature.

[@ravelkoff3549]

@@theDriZzleRGasifier I only changed the grate. But unfortunately it clogged again after 2 hours of continous run. I will change the grate to a grateless model too. The reason why I dind't see a flame in sunshine is because it's a white strong flame. Very much hydrogen inside. Wonder why.

[@ravelkoff3549]

I finished my condenser now. What a strong change in gas quality! I have big glasbins for controlling and after the second condenser no more creosote is collected. Now lets work on the grate ;)

[@weldingfabrication6970]

If you have the proper Jets on your system when you are burning your wood you will not have tar in your system. If you are looking for a corrective measure for your tar start there