Confirming faulty Miele dishwasher pressure switch (F14 + F24 error codes)

In this video I show how I confirmed that the pressure switched I replaced in video • Fixing F14 and F24 Fau... is indeed the faulty part that led to F14 and F24 error codes
See this other video where I take apart a pressure switch just for curiosity: • Dissecting A Miele Dis...
If the pressure switch tests fine, check out the possibility that it could be a defective slide shutter switch:
• Could a Miele F24 code...

[@sepposeppanen172]

You saved me a ton of money! I have the exact same dilemma with the pressure switch. Could get one for 50 Euro all in from Germany. New Miele dishwasher 1200 Euro. Thank you 🤗

[@rogerscubadiver]

That is awesome to hear Seppo! Glad the video is helping out. I definitely did not want to buy a new dishwasher so I had to persevere until I could find the root cause

[@lensherman6242]

Just to close the loop, I installed the relay and pressure switch today and ran a full cycle with no fault codes. Thanks for this video. Saved me close to $1k.

[@rogerscubadiver]

That is great news Len! So happy that you were able to fix it yourself. If you have an ohmmeter, it will be easy to verify if the pressure switch was the culprit as I show in this video. I also went one step further and in another video I cut it open to see how it failed (moisture was getting in). Cheers

[@annfonfon3600]

Thanks for the video! I installed the new part and it runs like a charm. I had the same results as you when testing the part. You saved me a bundle in labor costs! (Not to mention the look on my kids' faces when they saw Mom fixing the dishwasher 💪LOL!)

[@rogerscubadiver]

I love it! It is a good lesson for the kids to know that they can put their minds to any problem and solve it. Congrats

[@gabrielharber1788]

Thanks for the video. Very helpful. I found the reading on the line side of mine kind of bounced around a lot, which was kind of weird. One thing that was a little confusing is that one of your alligator clips is white (I noticed it coming off the black lead after a bit). But thank you. I will be ordering a new pressure switch and will hopefully extend the life I my dishwasher for a while.

[@rogerscubadiver]

Hi Gabriel. I’m glad that you found it useful. The bouncing could be a problem. It should be a simple open or close circuit. Any resistance should be suspect. As to the color of the alligator clips, it doesn’t matter what it is to complete the circuit for this test.

[@gabrielharber1788]

@@rogerscubadiver - I figured the orientation of the leads didn't matter, but I was trying to follow what you did exactly since I am not well-versed in using a multi-meter. The first side had a steady reading of .2 or so ohms. When the second side was moving around, I was worried that I didn't attach the leads correctly and repeated the process several times with the same result. I feel confident the problem is the pressure valve... but we will see once the new part comes. On the Miele website, the part number (which includes the seals) is 6996821.

[@rogerscubadiver]

@@gabrielharber1788 I should have mentioned the leads didn’t matter in the video. Sorry about that confusion. The .2ohms is virtually 0 ohms (closed circuit) so that side is good. If the other side was showing variable and higher resistance, then I have very high hopes that replacing the switch will solve this particular error code. Do keep me posted because I like learning if my solution works for others as well. Cheers

[@gabrielharber1788]

@@rogerscubadiver I replaced the pressure switch, but the dishwasher still didn't work (but I know it was bad after following your instructions and testing it with a multi-meter). I then decided to also replace the heater relay, and it looks like the dishwasher is working now. I have just run a couple cycles, but so far so good. The only issue now is that there is a low level humming sound coming from the machine.

[@rogerscubadiver]

@@gabrielharber1788 it is hard to tell what failure either of these two parts are causing. The electrical diagrams and arrive manual descriptions don’t make it easy. This is why I chose to replace both parts. And I also verified both parts and found the pressure switch was the one that didn’t work. I am glad that for you that heater relay did the trick (though it is surprising that the pressure switch was also not working as expected). I don’t know what the other issue may be. It sounds mechanical. Like something didn’t get re-seated correctly

[@randomdiyfixes3947]

Amazing! worked perfectly. thanks so much.

[@rogerscubadiver]

That is awesome to hear. It took me several weeks to root cause this issue and then to confirm it was the right faulty part to replace. I’m glad it is helping others

[@Guardian1224]

HI Roger, great video. I'm in need of this technical document myself. Where did you find it? I'm suspecting either my inlet valve or pressure valve is malfunctioning.

[@rogerscubadiver]

Hi Johan, just google the exact title I show in the video and you will find it.

[@Guardian1224]

@@rogerscubadiver Hi, thanks. I got it as well as the service manual for programming and testing the machine. I can confirm I have the exact same problem. Faulty pressure switch, still making contact after applying pressure :-)

[@rogerscubadiver]

That is great that you have root caused the issue. If you are measuring residual resistance after applying pressure, then it is likely the pressure switch. I made another video where I took it apart and I could see some small amount of wetness in the internal contacts. My guess is that rust eventually builds up and it doesn’t make a clean break. Replacing the part was easy in the US. Just found it in the Miele website and it got delivered in 5 days.

[@Guardian1224]

@@rogerscubadiver Yes indeed, I noticed that the contacts were moist so I dried them (none of the other components were moist). It didn't work so I took some measurements and noticed that one side correctly breaks the circuit and the other side still showed some resistance. Just like in your video. I had a F24 and occasional F11 fault which both seem to point to the same circuits. The relay seems to work correctly though. I found the spare part quickly. Ordered it this morning. It should arrive tomorrow or the day after tomorrow. The service manual was also very helpfull in finding that fault codes (I have no display G1143i) and also to run tests on each individual component. This way I could quickly rule out other potentially malfunctioning components. Besisdes this, your video was very helpful to determine I had the same issue. Note, I also have the same multimeter 😀

[@rogerscubadiver]

@@Guardian1224 that is so great to hear that the video helped me. I spent days scouring the internet looking for help on this issue and didn’t find any resource that pointed to the pressure switch. Most referred to the heater relay which I checked out and looked really good, so I didn’t believe it would solve me issue. Funny how we have the same multimeter too. I really like it. It is such a useful tool that it should be taught in schools Let me know when you get the new part if it is all fixed. Cheers

[@alessandrodoria4326]

Instead, I am still getting mad with my G1230G - F24 Error. Relay is crystal clean and test with multimeter suggests it is working well. The pressure sensor, I get 180-200 kΩ on 21-22 while I energize the water pressure switch and 140 kΩ on 21-24 without energizing the water switch. 0Ω between 21-24. Also, I found the schematic inside the fascia, discovered that in the manual they reference all the time to the ST5 connector, but it is ST6! Everything looks clean with the ST6 connector. So far it looks like the pressure sensor is the culprit here. Is there any other test I could do?

[@rogerscubadiver]

You are right about the ST5 lead being wrong. I found the schematic in the fascia and went with that. I have another video where I discussed that. If you are getting some resistance measured in the pressure switch when the circuit is supposed to be open, then that is likely your culprit. It was for me as you can see in the video. When a circuit is open, you should measure infinity ohms (or which ever way your ohmmeters shows when leads are not touching). When the circuit is closed (by emulating water pushing on the membrane like I did with the screwdriver), you should read 0 ohms (or a negligible fraction of 1 ohm). From what you are describing, it feels to me that your pressure switch is bad. Mine seemed to have gotten water inside (past the rubber part). Look for my video where I dissect the bad pressure switch).

[@rogerscubadiver]

And to answer your question, I think doing the resistance test and not getting the expected results is as good of a test as you want to do. The other is to actually test the board ST6 connector while in use but that is a lot more work to set up. You can order the pressure switch from MIELE’S website.

[@markpoynder4884]

how do i get a tech manual for miele g6300 scu dishwasher ? im in australia

[@rogerscubadiver]

Hello there Mark. Finding the tech documents is one of the hardest tasks I had to endure. I found it through googling. But a word of caution, many results from the search, specially those towards the bottom of the page, are for hacked websites that will likely install a virus in your computer. You can tell because the URL link typically has nothing to do with manuals. Also, you may have better luck by searching for the DW family, like “G6xxx” rather than specific model.

[@youtubeaccount931]

Where can I download the tech manual in the video?

[@rogerscubadiver]

@@youtubeaccount931 just put the exact title I show in the video in Google and you should find it in manuals lib

[@litvramu907]

Can it it be related with error code F78? I took out pump assembly it looks like new...

[@rogerscubadiver]

What Miele dishwasher model do you have? I Can look up code F78 to see if it can be related. I never saw that code with my unit

[@litvramu907]

@@rogerscubadiver Miele G 4970 SCV i

[@rogerscubadiver]

@@litvramu907 the diagnostic manual I found on the web only covers models 1xxx and 2xxx. It doesn’t even have the F78 code. I’m busy with work at the moment but I can look tonight to see if I can find a manual for your model.

[@rogerscubadiver]

@@litvramu907 in the meantime, I did a quick search and found this answers that may help you. Looks like you can do some easy checks for blockage if you haven’t already. Also reply back with what other symptoms you may be seeing. For example, in a previous issue with my dishwasher, I found there was leftover water in the pump’s drain pit by removing the arm after a wash was complete. Specify also any noises you hear or how long the washer runs before you get the error. I have a video in my series that shows you how to get into the service mode. Take a picture of all the error codes and then erase them all. Do a couple of washes and go back in to see what other new error codes are showing up. Sometimes the combination of error codes will help pinpoint the issue further www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/650541/Miele+Dishwasher+Error+F78+-+Circulation+Pump+issue

[@litvramu907]

@@rogerscubadiver I have check everything basically. I took out circulation pump and there inside impeller i found some pieces of plastic from dishes. Also, it spins freely and everything is intact. When the machine is starter it starts like normal about 30 sec and stops pumping and gives F78 CODE.

[@lensherman6242]

Does anyone have a link for this switch that isn't a used part on eBay?

[@rogerscubadiver]

Just order them from the Miele website directly. Really fast service in the US

[@rogerscubadiver]

See the description in this video on how to order the parts kzbin.info/www/bejne/jGqphJmJZc6DiNk

[@lensherman6242]

I got both parts by calling Miele. Remarkably, they answer the phone. This is why I'm a Miele fan. Their stuff doesn't break less than the other guys, but they make it easy to get parts. FYI, they said that not every part is on-line and some require calling, which I why I couldn't find the relay.

[@rogerscubadiver]

@@lensherman6242 glad you found the parts. Keep us posted on your fixes. For my case, it was the pressure switch that was really the culprit but since I didn’t want to take the machine out twice, I replaced the heater relay as well (even though I was pressure it was not the problem since my testing of the part showed it was working ok).

[@rogerscubadiver]

@@lensherman6242 I have other videos that showed all my triaging steps before I found the root cause

[@JIMDP25]

i have f51 and is related to this switch

[@rogerscubadiver]

That is great to know. How did you end up finding this switch was the culprit?

[@JIMDP25]

@@rogerscubadiver although i changed the switch with another used that i know its working i have the same issue again F51

[@JIMDP25]

@@rogerscubadiver in another previous model i had success but now no f51 still makes problem and i dont want to buy a new switch that might not work when it will be installed

[@rogerscubadiver]

@@JIMDP25 oh I get it. I misunderstood your original post. You are asking me if changing this switch will fix the F51 code you are getting now. I don’t know that answer but can look at the manual later to see if it is related

[@rogerscubadiver]

@@JIMDP25 I looked in the manual and F51 can be caused by the heater relay or the pressure switch. You can verify that both parts are working (or not working) as expected by pulling them out of the machine and testing them. My video in this chat shows how to test the pressure switch. I also have another video where I tested the heater relay