@@youtubeaccount931 just put the exact title I show in the video in Google and you should find it in manuals lib

@@leekosky9444 glad to help. Let us know how it goes after you replace the part

@@rogerscubadiver I replaced the part and it's been working without fault for 2 weeks! Thanks again for your video.

@@leekosky9444 that is awesome! Thanks for sharing

From the Miele USA website

Read the description in this video

That is a good point. I think because I needed to unscrew the head with both hands and holding the phone was impossible. Is yours not one the simply unscrews when you extend the hose?

@@rogerscubadiver turns out you just pull out, no need to unscrew, just finished replacing the head, thanks

@@blanecurry9090 interesting. Mine screws in

It is a bad design that leaves water in the filter area to become stagnant and smelly. I have started to do a full cleaning cycle with lots of bleach every week as a way to limit the horrid smell

Dana, what part is it that you are looking for. I’m not sure what you are referring to as housing. But the Miele website should have parts if you know the part number or name. It has some basic stuff (user replaceable) and then you need to click in a link that will take you to the real internal parts website. Let me find it for you but again I recommend you know exactly what is leaking and what its part number is. Most of the times an o-ring replacement would be the way to go

Here is the full catalog www4.miele.de/MSD/MobileMSD/#/search/Housing

@@rogerscubadiver Access denied for the catalog you sent me

@@danadindial-brown8504 just go through the Miele website and find Support -> repairs and maintenance -> parts and accessories -> full spare parts catalog www.mieleusa.com If the part is not available online, just call Miele directly

Dana, F70 code is for a float switch float. It could be that you have a leak and the switch is activating or that the switch is defective. Either way, you will need to take the bottom pan out to determine which one. I haven’t had this problem yet but the manual has the following info “Fault code F70 Symptom Fault code F70: Float switch fault. After the WaterProof System has activated, the program is interrupted and the drain pump is operated. The fault will be indicated in the display or via LEDs. The buzzer is activated for as long as the fault is detected. Cause Water in the drip pan. Changeover contact of the overflow float switch B8/3 closed from 1 to 4 (refer to wiring diagram). Remedy Remove the water from the drip pan. Check all hoses, connections and threaded unions for leaks. Check the float switch B8/3 for continuity and correct operation. Carefully dry all electrical components in the drip pan area. Cause Float switch defective. Remedy Replace the float switch B8/3, 5.5.25. Cause Drip pan warped after transport. Remedy Remove Drip pan, 5.1.12. Bend the drip pan straight or replace if necessary.”

Dana, The F70 code looks like you can have a leak in the system or the switch is defective. Remove the drip pan to examine and get more clues. Look at some of initial video where I take the dishwasher apart to learn how to remove the drip pan and to identify the float switch (a white styrofoam circle hanging on a switch ) “Fault code F70 Symptom Fault code F70: Float switch fault. After the WaterProof System has activated, the program is interrupted and the drain pump is operated. The fault will be indicated in the display or via LEDs. The buzzer is activated for as long as the fault is detected. Cause Water in the drip pan. Changeover contact of the overflow float switch B8/3 closed from 1 to 4 (refer to wiring diagram). Remedy Remove the water from the drip pan. Check all hoses, connections and threaded unions for leaks. Check the float switch B8/3 for continuity and correct operation. Carefully dry all electrical components in the drip pan area. Cause Float switch defective. Remedy Replace the float switch B8/3, 5.5.25. Cause Drip pan warped after transport. Remedy Remove Drip pan, 5.1.12. Bend the drip pan straight or replace if necessary.”

Do you know where I can buy a float switch for the Miele la Perla dishwasher.

Before buying the switch, determine if you have a leak. If you don’t find a leak, I would remove the float switch and test it using an ohmmeter. It is an easy test to go from if the switch is working or not. You can then find the exact part numbers. It should be on the part and order it from the Miele website . They sell parts

I have a leak. Do I need to replace the pump or do you know if I can get the part. It looks like a housing

I called Grohe and they sent it for free since they are supposed to have a lifetime warranty

It was a difficult choice for me too Paul. I was 90% sure it was not the heater relay because I had already checked it was working as expected. My rationale was that once I have the dishwasher all taken apart, i didn’t want to do the job twice and waste another weekend so ordered both parts. On the plus side, you and have now have a spare heater relay in case that part fails in the future :-)

Glad it helped and that you had a second set of hands to make it go faster

This is awesome. Glad to hear

I couldn’t find it in the Miele website but I’m sure if you take the part to a plumber store, they should be able to find an O-ring. Someone replied in the comments here that they did that. No danger to try different o-rings until you find that fits tightly.

Sorry. I didn’t repeat the steps in this video because I have a separate one that covers that step kzbin.info/www/bejne/kJazgpKKfM6Zd7Msi=t13CAeGhHOgEfsKA

Did you find broken glass in the propeller where the non-return valve sits? I would start by removing that but yes, if the glass got into the pump, it may start causing other problems. Look for my video on how to reset the computer codes and run a couple of new dishwashing cycles. Use those codes to further triage the issue.

Thanks, can i replace the pump and the non return valve? Do you know the miele purchase code for the impeller pump as well?@@rogerscubadiver

@@anguscameron561 I’m confused Angus. Why do you want to replace the pump? If there is glass where the impeller is at, just get it out with your fingers or a shop vac.

I love it! It is a good lesson for the kids to know that they can put their minds to any problem and solve it. Congrats

Grohe is supposed to have a “lifetime warranty” but when I called them about getting a replacement, I found out “lifetime” really applies to the life of a cat.

@@rogerscubadiver I'm having trouble with the faucet head and am tr;ying figure if I should replace the head or just throw in the towel and replace the whole faucet..I'll try calling themf.Thanks again for the upload

@@markyeeee replacing the head will be easiest and cheapest route. See if they are willing to replace it for free. They will likely ask you for the receipt

@@rogerscubadiver Of course no receipt but will try...It's been really bad since the beginning....thanks again

@@markyeeee I would just push and escalate if they require the receipt. It is a gimmick to offer lifetime replacement and expect people to keep (or find) the receipt

Glad you found it helpful. Enjoy

Love it!

How were you able to find a matching o-ring? I wanted to buy one but couldn’t figure out a part number or something that I could use to search for a replacement

They do not sell it separately as far as I know. I googled the part number and found it as Mouser Electronics. You can see my order it in the video. Note that the part is for the USA voltage and you need to replace it with the equivalent voltage-appropriate part for the higher voltage countries

Are you having the same F84 issue? If so, please reply here if you end up root causing the problem. I’m curious what other issues can present themselves as this code. I suspect debris caught on the slide shutter could also lead to the problem

@@rogerscubadiver I’m going to test my customer’s dishwasher with same error f84 today

@@magomedradzhabov7489 any news on your F84 code and if you were able to resolve it?

@@rogerscubadiver hi, yes. I replaced circulation pump whole piece and it worked🤩 Thanks for your video, you’re a big man

Nice. Thanks for the tip.

See my previous videos in this channel. For myself and several people, it is not the heat relay but the pressure switch. I concretely proved it with an ohmmeter and then took the part apart to see some rust that was causing resistance issues. This time, I got an F24 in my second dishwasher and I immediately thought it was the pressure switch. However, when I tested it, it was working fine. I still put a replacement in since I had already bought it but then the F63 and F84 came on. Hence I’m stipulating that the first F24 was a red herring that could have been caused by a blocked pressure switch since the slide shutter wasn’t being rotated to the right spot

That is fantastic! Thank you for sharing!

Hi Rmariu. Good idea on using alcohol and hair dryer to proof the switch is defective. Electrically, I have already proven it is not working as expected. Physically is the next fun piece to investigate. I’m going to see if I can crack it open like it did for the pressure switch in a previous video. Stay tune for new videos. BTW, how did you arrive at this video? Are you having the same error code?

@@rogerscubadiver I have had the same problem in the past. Mine was due to a leaking seal. The switch is actuated by a "crank" arm which connects to a black seal that in my case leaked. I replaced the seal and it worked again.

@@rogerscubadiver There is some staining by the diverter motor which does hint at some leak. You can remove the diverter motor by pressing down firmly and using a fine flat screwdriver to release the tab. It makes it much easier to turn the crank and disassemble that section of the pump.

@@rmariu Thanks for replying back and giving me a background on your problem. Yeah, I have no idea what caused the staining by the shutter switch motor (I assume that is what you are referring to as the diverter motor). UPS just dropped off my replacement switch. Time to do more investigations.

@@rmariu I got the new switch and swapped it out. Problem fixed! Part cost $1.83 plus $8 shipping. Huge cost savings compared to having the whole pump replaced (that is what the tech manual says to do for F63 and F84 codes).

I would use hands only.

Hi Rich. Yes, my F24 was not the relay switch. I suspected it would be that part because it was testing correctly. In the description of this video, I added a link to where I show the pressure switch was root cause to my F24 problem.

That is great to hear. Did you replace the pressure switch and did the problem go away? I was very surprised when I started investigating this issue that no one else had root caused it to this part. It took me several weeks to find and prove it. Now I’m finding lots of people commenting in my videos that they had the same issue

I have ordered the part and will let you know once I swap it. Mechanically my switch would test fine but it was the only remaining explanation for my F14. To confirm before ordering new part I decided to see if it would hold pressure. It failed - it would not hold a suction (block hole with finger - suck hard on other side) so I figured that was the problem. On disassembly mine looked even worse than in your video. @@rogerscubadiver

@@dc-wt1wu yeah. If water got past the seal and into the contacts, I am pretty sure it would affect the resistance and cause the computer to throw faults. I got the new pressure switch for my second dishwasher. I’ll post here once I have had a chance to change it and take the old one apart

Just got the new switch. It held vacuum when I tested it so I went ahead and installed. F14 error now gone and all seems good with the rest of the cycle. Thanks for posting the video .@@rogerscubadiver

@@dc-wt1wu fantastic news. Happy dish washing

Thanks! My second dishwasher just threw an F24 code after some black powery stuff was found in the filter. I’m suspecting the rubber membrane in the switch began disintegrating. I have a replacement part coming and I will dissect the old one to confirm.

Did you get a replacement part and did it fixed the problem? I just got my replacement part yesterday. I’ll be doing the change soon and then dissect the old part

I believe a small amount of water got past the seal into the contacts. You can see in the video when I remove the metal plate there is a slight wetness inside. That likely caused some corrosion. Another possiblity is that the mechanical spring that breaks contact got fatigued and it doesn’t open as much as it should be to create the open circuit.

Hi Gabriel. I’m glad that you found it useful. The bouncing could be a problem. It should be a simple open or close circuit. Any resistance should be suspect. As to the color of the alligator clips, it doesn’t matter what it is to complete the circuit for this test.

@@rogerscubadiver - I figured the orientation of the leads didn't matter, but I was trying to follow what you did exactly since I am not well-versed in using a multi-meter. The first side had a steady reading of .2 or so ohms. When the second side was moving around, I was worried that I didn't attach the leads correctly and repeated the process several times with the same result. I feel confident the problem is the pressure valve... but we will see once the new part comes. On the Miele website, the part number (which includes the seals) is 6996821.

@@gabrielharber1788 I should have mentioned the leads didn’t matter in the video. Sorry about that confusion. The .2ohms is virtually 0 ohms (closed circuit) so that side is good. If the other side was showing variable and higher resistance, then I have very high hopes that replacing the switch will solve this particular error code. Do keep me posted because I like learning if my solution works for others as well. Cheers

@@rogerscubadiver I replaced the pressure switch, but the dishwasher still didn't work (but I know it was bad after following your instructions and testing it with a multi-meter). I then decided to also replace the heater relay, and it looks like the dishwasher is working now. I have just run a couple cycles, but so far so good. The only issue now is that there is a low level humming sound coming from the machine.

@@gabrielharber1788 it is hard to tell what failure either of these two parts are causing. The electrical diagrams and arrive manual descriptions don’t make it easy. This is why I chose to replace both parts. And I also verified both parts and found the pressure switch was the one that didn’t work. I am glad that for you that heater relay did the trick (though it is surprising that the pressure switch was also not working as expected). I don’t know what the other issue may be. It sounds mechanical. Like something didn’t get re-seated correctly

Hello there Mark. Finding the tech documents is one of the hardest tasks I had to endure. I found it through googling. But a word of caution, many results from the search, specially those towards the bottom of the page, are for hacked websites that will likely install a virus in your computer. You can tell because the URL link typically has nothing to do with manuals. Also, you may have better luck by searching for the DW family, like “G6xxx” rather than specific model.

That is awesome to hear. It took me several weeks to root cause this issue and then to confirm it was the right faulty part to replace. I’m glad it is helping others

That is fantastic to hear! Congrats

I spent 0.25 $ changing the o-ring.

What Miele dishwasher model do you have? I Can look up code F78 to see if it can be related. I never saw that code with my unit

@@rogerscubadiver Miele G 4970 SCV i

@@litvramu907 the diagnostic manual I found on the web only covers models 1xxx and 2xxx. It doesn’t even have the F78 code. I’m busy with work at the moment but I can look tonight to see if I can find a manual for your model.

@@litvramu907 in the meantime, I did a quick search and found this answers that may help you. Looks like you can do some easy checks for blockage if you haven’t already. Also reply back with what other symptoms you may be seeing. For example, in a previous issue with my dishwasher, I found there was leftover water in the pump’s drain pit by removing the arm after a wash was complete. Specify also any noises you hear or how long the washer runs before you get the error. I have a video in my series that shows you how to get into the service mode. Take a picture of all the error codes and then erase them all. Do a couple of washes and go back in to see what other new error codes are showing up. Sometimes the combination of error codes will help pinpoint the issue further www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/650541/Miele+Dishwasher+Error+F78+-+Circulation+Pump+issue

@@rogerscubadiver I have check everything basically. I took out circulation pump and there inside impeller i found some pieces of plastic from dishes. Also, it spins freely and everything is intact. When the machine is starter it starts like normal about 30 sec and stops pumping and gives F78 CODE.

Glad it helped.

You are right about the ST5 lead being wrong. I found the schematic in the fascia and went with that. I have another video where I discussed that. If you are getting some resistance measured in the pressure switch when the circuit is supposed to be open, then that is likely your culprit. It was for me as you can see in the video. When a circuit is open, you should measure infinity ohms (or which ever way your ohmmeters shows when leads are not touching). When the circuit is closed (by emulating water pushing on the membrane like I did with the screwdriver), you should read 0 ohms (or a negligible fraction of 1 ohm). From what you are describing, it feels to me that your pressure switch is bad. Mine seemed to have gotten water inside (past the rubber part). Look for my video where I dissect the bad pressure switch).

And to answer your question, I think doing the resistance test and not getting the expected results is as good of a test as you want to do. The other is to actually test the board ST6 connector while in use but that is a lot more work to set up. You can order the pressure switch from MIELE’S website.

Sorry Roberto but that is a bit too vague. I would start with figuring out if you have the right 240V (assuming US and electric dryer) by checking the plug.

Thank you. :-)

I have the same problem and yes, the seal is wearing out. When I looked at the replacement, it blew my mind that you have to buy the entire pump!! If you find the seal by itself, let me know. What I did the last time was to reverse the seal since it had gotten very misshaped. It is an awful design. I have been getting some extra time before I need to empty the receptacle by doing a self cleaning cycle with a lot of bleach. Seems to help temporarily. Is your need to clean it monthly for the same reason as mine? The stagnant water that becomes really smelly?

@@rogerscubadiverwere able to resolve the problem of stinky smell in filter? Can you access the drain pump if you tilt the machine? I’ve heard that if you use 1 tablespoon of powder Tide detergent and one tablespoon of Oxi Clean versatile powder in every load it helps deodorize and clean things out. I use Lysol liquid laundry sanitizer in my rinse tray for every single load in my HE top load washer. I don’t have any smells.

@@apAvocado not really. The seal became warped and it was hard to prevent leaks. They way I am working around it is by adding a ton of bleach to the drum directly and storage container and then run a full self cleaning cycle every week with no clothes. So basically throw a lot of bleach at it and waste a wash cycle. Even then the clothes don’t smell as clean as the 20yr old Maytag it replaced

That is great to know. How did you end up finding this switch was the culprit?

@@rogerscubadiver although i changed the switch with another used that i know its working i have the same issue again F51

@@rogerscubadiver in another previous model i had success but now no f51 still makes problem and i dont want to buy a new switch that might not work when it will be installed

@@JIMDP25 oh I get it. I misunderstood your original post. You are asking me if changing this switch will fix the F51 code you are getting now. I don’t know that answer but can look at the manual later to see if it is related

@@JIMDP25 I looked in the manual and F51 can be caused by the heater relay or the pressure switch. You can verify that both parts are working (or not working) as expected by pulling them out of the machine and testing them. My video in this chat shows how to test the pressure switch. I also have another video where I tested the heater relay

Very happy to hear it worked out. Did you end up replacing the non-return valve? Did you notice if the O-ring was worn out like in my case?

That is great to hear Kent. Did you end up replacing the non-return valve and it fixed your issue?

Great to hear

That is awesome to hear Seppo! Glad the video is helping out. I definitely did not want to buy a new dishwasher so I had to persevere until I could find the root cause

Glad it helped

It should have cost less than $30 in Miele website

@@rogerscubadiver Thanks, will check there.

That is great news Len! So happy that you were able to fix it yourself. If you have an ohmmeter, it will be easy to verify if the pressure switch was the culprit as I show in this video. I also went one step further and in another video I cut it open to see how it failed (moisture was getting in). Cheers