Connect any powered sub to Sonos with this Ikea Symfonisk DIY hack

[@keithepstein2812]

I don't do a lot of hardware hacks, as my experience is that they often do not work as advertised. This one is the real deal. I had two Symfonisk speakers paired with an Arc, which produced pretty good rear speaker surround sound. I purchased a Polk 10" subwoofer for $150, wired them to binding posts exactly as you did, and BAMMMM! Huge, furniture-rumbling bass. Thanks for this excellent tutorial.

[@todd.parker]

So glad it worked for you. Adding a sub makes a huge difference

[@DerekJohnsonSV]

This worked perfectly for me with a Polk Audio PSW 108. While it doesn't sound quite as clean as the actual Sonos Sub, it's quite incredible for the price. Thank you for the great video!

[@todd.parker]

That’s awesome!

[@FlossinFlipper]

This worked like a dream. You knocked it out of the park with this video.

[@todd.parker]

Great to hear it worked for you!

[@FlossinFlipper]

@@todd.parker you mentioned using both the subs input and output for more filtering and better sound although your sub didn't have the capability. Can you please elaborate on how to wire the second set of wires for a capable sub? Thanks

[@todd.parker]

Ashvin Forouzandeh if your sub has speaker outputs you essentially disconnect the symfonisk woofer and wire that to the sub input. Then you connect the output from the sub to the symfonisks woofer. This will filter out the bass below the subs crossover frequency

[@shaundavidssd]

Because that's exactly why those speaker terminals are for ,lol

[@todd.parker]

Yep!

[@louisolivierfortin]

FYI : I managed to do exactly the same thing with a Sonos Play 1. I have a polk audio sub with RCA inputs. I put it on very low volume and ran a trueplay setup, and it’s honestly amazing. I wouldn’t call it HiFi but it’s definatly good enough for the average consumer ;) Thanks!

[@todd.parker]

Thanks for sharing, you’re braver than me to get into the Play :. Thing is packed tight! I agree that you can always have higher fidelity but if you’re plugging a $100 sub in, I think that’s the limiting factor over the signal and like you said it’s more than good enough for most people

[@louisolivierfortin]

Todd Parker It is in fact packed tight, but it really wasn’t difficult at all to open up. There is a good play 1 teardown video that shows it all ;)

[@IngénieurDENG]

Hi louisolivierfortin, so do you also use a speaker level to RCA adapter to achieve this?

[@IngénieurDENG]

@@todd.parker Just to show my appreciation for all your great works. It's amazing.

[@IngénieurDENG]

@@louisolivierfortin Thanks for quick reply. May I have link you used for speaker level to RCA adapter? I also saw some replies about 75 ms delay for this 5.1 system, what's your real feeling?

[@todd.parker]

Hi all - Based on all your questions, I made a video covering how to use this technique to connect a cheap sub to your Beam or Playbar for a 5.1 home theater setup: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oZqWn2xuisR8bbM Here are my recommended subwoofers on Amazon ~$100 that will work for this: Polk 10" - amzn.to/2RcWV1q Monoprice 8" - amzn.to/3696umd Monoprice premium 8" - amzn.to/2Rdl73O Acoustic Audio 8" - amzn.to/2TVfCZt Any subwoofer will work as long as it's amplified and has speaker level inputs - if it only has RCA inputs, look elsewhere.

[@mcruzer82]

I just went to ikea and did this with my Polk sub yesterday. Works perfectly and so easy. Thanks for sharing!

[@todd.parker]

Awesome, good to hear it worked well for you!

[@janpostma6032]

Finally had some time to arranged the project. I connected my Ikea speaker to a ts7 harman kardon sub and it works good thx !!!!

[@todd.parker]

Glad to hear it worked!

[@FrancisBaconthe3rd]

Wow! I’m trying this in the next few weeks. IKEA in my area has been closed due to COVID but this is an exciting project.

[@todd.parker]

It’s a fun little project, let us know how it goes!

[@sudheery1703]

Sonos arc +2 Symphonisk speaker+2 subs mind blowing super sir tq for your idea

[@todd.parker]

Nice! Dual subs must sound great

[@matfernan100]

Hello, do you set the Symphoniks as surrounds? By doing this maybe the sub will receive only the signal of the sounds supposed to come from behind, missing the lows of the front/center channels… or am I missing something?

[@todd.parker]

I was surprised that the surround channels had as much bass as they do. It’s obviously not the same as the true sun channel but I think you’ll find it sounds really good when passed into a high quality powered sub

[@khanfauji7]

Awesome video - I have a subwoofer collecting dust which can now be a part of my Sonos system

[@CWCruiseWalkthroughs]

Thank you. Confirmed what I was hoping would work.

[@robertearlreynolds7064]

You could probably find a line level signal to tap into just before the amplifier stage. They would allow you to use the RCA inputs on your sub, or a better external amp.

[@todd.parker]

Yep, I just didn't know where on the board to tap into at the time. I've seen videos of people doing exactly that but it's a bit fiddly and my soldering skills aren't up to the job!

[@stefan.n894]

I have a subwoofer with RCA inputs but unfortunately not with a speaker input like it has in this video. Do you know where the amplifier stage is located in the Symfonisk? or where you can tap/solder that?

[@Lord--Farquaad]

Hey, I'm running into problems with this hack, I got everything wired up but I don't know if it's all correct. Just to clarify, do I leave the speaker wires that are already on the woofer terminal in Symfonisk and loop my outgoing speaker wire around them? Or do I take the Symfonisk connections out and just run my sub off the empty posts? I've watched all your videos on this and I'm still not clear about this. I'm also using an RCA adapter, it's fairly high-end and I was told this would work. But the signal I'm getting now into the sub is weird - it sounds like a full-range signal but it's janky, pitchy even. High-end rolloff on the sub doesn't do much about that. Also it hums when static... am I fucked?

[@todd.parker]

If you’re using the symfonisk as surrounds then you want to leave all of the internal drivers connected. The easiest way to add a wire to the woofer is to wrap it around the terminal on the woofer and add some hot glue. Be careful they don’t touch the frame of the woofer or it will short out. You can also slightly pull back the plastic boot on the wires, slide a stripped wire in so it sort of sits on top of the existing wire terminal, then slide the boot back so it’s compressed on top of the terminal. If the converter sounds strange, double check your wiring and adjust the volume so it’s as loud as possible without distorting. Usually the converters have a tiny volume knob recessed in a hole. Guessing your levels are low?

[@Lord--Farquaad]

@@todd.parker thanks - I’ll check on the converter volume. I don’t care for any of the sound from the Symfonisk, in fact it would just get in my way. Ideally I’d want just the signal to the subwoofer and nothing else. Do I disconnect all the internal drivers then?

[@todd.parker]

@@Lord--Farquaad yep, just disconnect the drivers and electrical tape each wire separately to avoid any shorts

[@uponpaul]

This seems such an easy way to connect any sub indeed. I wonder if they don't output the sonos cast audio like this in the original hardware. Probably the answer is money, but if you have some confidence in opening and closing the Symfonisk or any sonos (although they often have better bass than the symfonisk) it is a very good solution. Thanks

[@leonpjhb]

Superb original content. Great idea. Well done.

[@shaundavidssd]

Original? they've had those speaker terminals for decades , KZbin for decades,change the Sonos for Denon , Yamaha and you'll find you're decades late my friend,original lmao

[@todd.parker]

I agree this has been built into powered subs for decades. I think the new twist here is rather that using a receiver to get a signal to the sub we’re jumping off a woofer in a bi-amped Sonos speaker which is a cheap way to add a sub without buying the official Sonos sub.

[@paitz]

how bout using hdmi splitter, go with hdmi from tv to the hdmi plitter, then you get 2 hdmi outs, one out to the sonos soundbar and the other out to an hdmi to rca converter, then you plug the audio rca´s (red and white) to the active subwoffer ... would this work ?

[@avery41]

Very late to the party here. This will be a huge help for other rooms. In my theater room I have a Sonos Arc Soundbar and 2 Ikea's as the surrounds.. thoughts on how I could execute this with my current setup?

[@faresfaresfares100]

Did u try?

[@dickie997]

Just a little thing. I’ve done this project. I am using a Kef PSW2010 which I am connecting to the Line In Input Socket. It works fine and I can adjust the input level to get the right amount of fill in bass. Unfortunately when there is no sound through the Sonos system there is a low level hum from the sub. Any ideas how to stop that? I don’t know if it matters but I disconnected the connection to the IKEA mid range; I know that has an impedance so perhaps that’s why it’s humming?

[@todd.parker]

If your sub doesn’t have speaker inputs, you can’t connect the wire from the symfonisk woofer to the RCA plug or it could damage your sub. You must buy a speaker to RCA signal converter and that will clean up the sound. If you just want to use the sub, disconnect the wires to the woofer and tweeter

[@neilbarkeraswell]

I am so pleased with this hack. SONOS and other companies wind me up with their expensive solutions. Any ideas regarding getting my tv sound to play through sonos without loosing tv sound? Keep up the good work.

[@todd.parker]

It depends on what audio output you have on the tv and what sonos speaker you have.

[@CarrascoFarms]

Maybe I've misunderstood the question but it sounds like you're trying to playback the TV audio through other speakers throughout the home? If so, the app allows you to do that as long as your source is TV and grouped by the playbar/base/beam.

[@zachtchannel3124]

I did this and just took the whole thing apart. If you do just be careful with the ribbon cable. It’s way more clean because you can mount the amp in the cabinet

[@RodolfoGonellaDiaza]

Hi Todd, great video, thanks! I might try this. One question: with 2 symfonisk as stereo, is the hack needed just for one of them, or both?

[@todd.parker]

You could do both but I don't think it makes much difference in sound quality since bass tends to be mono so I'd just do one

[@johnw2604]

Great video, using this I was able to output to a powered sub, as well as a Buttkicker couch shaker. Works perfectly!

[@todd.parker]

Good call on the buttkicker

[@johnw2604]

@@todd.parker I originally was using the Simfonisk as a surround, and pulling the LFE for the sub/buttkicker. It was OK, but I eventually switched to using the Simfonisk with disconnected speakers as a "sub only" unit and grouping it, and now it is tons better. Water cup scene from Jurassic Park shows it's in perfect sync and sending out all the proper LFE signals. Thanks again for all your videos!

[@todd.parker]

@@johnw2604 Thanks for confirming, that makes sense. A surprising amount of LF info is in the surrounds but taking the full signal by grouping should be more powerful at the expense of a slight delay.

[@alexgalviz2291]

do you think i could connect a turntable to the ikea speaker?

[@alexgalviz2291]

specifically a RCA audio cable

[@todd.parker]

Not easily, no

[@victorcarloslopez1749]

What’s the name for that spectrum analyzer?

[@woltergrant]

Awesome video! This idea popped into my mind too, well similar, so I had to do a search to see if someone had done in yet, figured it would be with one of the older models a while ago. But nope same speakers I picked up last weekend to try it on too, I had similar thinking since these cheaper speakers came out I can now start messing with Sonos hacks. This Does Not Compute actually inspired my idea from his teardown video. I wanted to try and make a video on hooking up a line-level adapter to the terminals so I could wire it to my receiver input and output it to my entire surround sound. Kind of like a makeshift Connect without the line in. My biggest concern was audio delay on the surround, but I just did my first round of testing and it seems like it won't be an issue. The way you perceived it was cool too! That method had not crossed my mind.

[@todd.parker]

That’s interesting. So how are you getting a full range signal out of these since they electronically crossover the signal for the woofer and tweeter amps?

[@Only-Bans]

Great tutorial, great idea, but wont the sub LACK a massive amount of power? This only works with ACTIVE woofers right? Why dont remove all the insides of the IKEA speaker and build these in the sub?

[@todd.parker]

This is designed to skim a signal off the symfonisk or other Sonos to feed an active sub with its own amp so the power is just limited by the size and quality of the sub. You could put the guts into tue sub but that’s a lot of work and awkward because the input for the sub is outside. That might be a better idea for a passive sub (no amp) which is a possibility I didn’t cover because the symfonisk amps are pretty small compared to an average sub

[@robertstovall1449]

I can report success following your instructions on the Symfonisk-SubWoofer hack. Thanks, but can you clarify the sound I am getting? I’ve operated under the belief that the .1 referred to a specific LFE (subwoofer) channel that is neither left nor right; however, my sound source is the TV as heard through a Sonos soundbar. To connect the subwoofer through Sonos WiFi, I had to nominate the Symfonisk as sitting in another room. What is the source of its sound? In a related question, I wanted to connect left & right front speakers to enhance the spatial sense of action on the TV, but a Crutchfield tech AND a Sonos tech told me that when the TV/soundbar is the signal source, peripherals in the room WILL BE left & right REAR channels. They argue that the soundbar is all I need for spatial effects, and Sonos design - declaring these new speakers as “peripherals” - is enforcing that imperative. What happens if, like the subwoofer, I nominate them as sitting in a separate room even though I placed them left & right of the TV. Will I get left & right front speaker signals?

[@todd.parker]

Good to hear this worked. Sonos is very rigid in the setup. If you have sound bar you can only add an official sub and pair of matched rear speakers. You cannot add more front speakers. If you connect a sub to a symfonisk as a separate room abs group it with the home theater room, it think you get a mono signal that combines all the audio into one.

[@TheJoshkc662]

Would a Polk PSW10 be suitable for this set-up? If not can you help star me in the right direction? Thanks for this video! I just bought a Sonos Arc and two One SL's but couldn't bring myself to spend $700 for the Sub.

[@todd.parker]

Yep that one will work. Really any sub with speaker level inputs will be fine

[@TheJoshkc662]

@@todd.parker thanks for the reply, found the PSW10 on FB Marketplace for $65 and wanted to make sure before snapping it up. Excited to dig into this.

[@CrownJoker]

Apologies if this is poor understanding, but does splitting the speaker level input into the sub cause that channel to be quieter than the other? I would love to do this with my system, but having audio feel off=center would drive me crazy.

[@todd.parker]

Not at all. Splitting the wires off from the woofer to the speaker inputs on a powered sub won’t change the sound of the speaker at all.

[@poweller34]

Thinking about getting 2 of these ikea speakers and a sonos beam. Looking to do a 5.1 set up. Would I just need to take signal from one ikea speaker to the sub? Cheers. Great vid

[@todd.parker]

Yep. You wire them both to the sub but I don’t think you’re going to hear much of a difference. When I had it set up, I only used one channel for the sub and it sounds great

[@jb.8992]

Would it be possible for you to make a video on how to connect a set of outdoor speakers like Kliptsh indoor/ outdoor set?

[@todd.parker]

It’s pretty much the same as my bi-amp Klipsch videos so check those out. You could leave the symfonisks inside and essentially just run wires from the woofer and tweeter amps inside directly to the woofer and tweeter in your outdoor speakers. Just bypass the passive crossovers and direct wire to the drivers

[@jb.8992]

@@todd.parker Thank you so much for the info.

[@spencerbarnes6sb]

Awesome video. Very descriptive and very clean install. Thank you so much!

[@wanderleisumo]

Thanks Todd, this is one of those rare videos where the internet is really a powerful tool! how would music listening result after the hack?i'd go with a beam gen2+2 symfo and a sub configuration. Thanks again!

[@todd.parker]

It sounds really great, just make sure to Trueplay

[@chicoloco11]

I saw a symfonisk hack to a „sonos move“ someone put a Batterie inside and the speaker works without powercable up to 8-10hours. Can you also do this and explain how it works in a video ?

[@todd.parker]

Sorry I haven’t messed with adding a battery yet

[@dragonniteIV]

You have a new subscriber! Really nice explanation and cool hack!

[@todd.parker]

Hey thanks, I appreciate it!

[@dickdickinson222]

Can this be done with just one Symfonisk speaker? I cannot get so is app to link a single Symfonisk to the Beam.

[@todd.parker]

No, if you’re setting the Symfonisks up as the surrounds, Sonos requires a matched pair. If you only have one, your best bet is to group the symfonisk room with your Beam room

[@pavanb500]

Todd.. I was thinking of using a variation of your idea to directly power an Aura bass shaker off of the wire going to the woofer built into the Symfonik (and disconnecting the built in woofer). Is there a particular reason that wouldn't work? Also, can I just disconnect the tweeter and wrap the connectors in heat shrink, or would I need to use a resistor or something to keep the built in amp happy? Thanks

[@todd.parker]

I think if you disconnect the woofer, the internal amp could power the bass shaker. It’s only a 50 watt amp but it’s decent quality. I’d either use wire caps or electrical tape around each connection but there’s no need to add anything else to keep the amps safe. Let me know how it goes...

[@pavanb500]

@@todd.parker Thanks Todd. Ordered the speaker and shaker, so I'll let you know how it goes after testing this weekend.

Hi Todd! I hope you reply to old clips like this one ... I got an old Logitech PC sub with a wired volume control connected to the sub with what looks like a PC monitor cable. The sub sounds really good and if possible I'd like to hack it. Do you have any tips?

[@todd.parker]

Those are tricky because of the proprietary connectors but the best you can do is get a speaker to line level converter and plug that into the Logitech’s 1/8” input. Check out my Sonos line out video to see how that works

@@todd.parker thanks, I will watch that one!

[@jdankbaar]

I have a JBL Bar 9.1 with a big subwoofer and I want to hook up some bass shakers to my couch via an extra amplifier. Do you think I can get the sub frequency signal from the subwoofer internal speaker to wire to the amp that then controls the bass shakers? Can the signal that originally only supposed to be for the subwoofer be weaker after this signal tapping? Thanks in advance!

[@todd.parker]

Yes, absolutely. This technique works with any powered speaker. I assume your bass shaker doesn't have high level (speaker) inputs so you need to buy a converter to reduce the powered line to a RCA signal. This kind of thing - must have a box with electronics, not just a wire adapter. www.crutchfield.com/S-Zi2v8YdjCsf/p_20646KILO/Kicker-46KiSLOC.html

[@jdankbaar]

@@todd.parker thanks for your quick reply, I see the converter but I do need an additional amp to power the bass shakers (2x 50watt) if the amp has high input levels this converter would be unnecessary since the subwoofer already receives a low frequency range (I guess?). Then can the signal that originally only supposed to be for the subwoofer be weaker after this signal tapping? In other words: will the signal tapping have an effect on the signal that the original wireless subwoofer receives? Thanks in advance.

[@todd.parker]

@@jdankbaar I thought you mentioned that you had an extra amp for the bass shakers? Yes, you'd should have a separate amp for the bass shakers and just skim a signal off the woofers to feed to that. If you hook a subwoofer and bass shaker off one amp, there is a good chance that will be too much for the amp. Each speaker you add in parallel drops the impedance by half and makes it harder to drive.

[@jdankbaar]

@@todd.parker the subwoofer and the bass shakers have their own amplifier, subwoofer is wireless but doesn't have line-outputs. That's why I want to tap a signal from the subwoofer to feed the separate amp with a low level signal for my bass shakers. But my question is: does the signal tapping have an effect on the high level signal the subwoofer receives originally before tapping? In other words: does the subwoofer that is tapped from perform the the same after tapping it?

[@arthurduurkoop9468]

Hello, I have a Sonos sound bar and a Sonos AMP and a not Sonos better subwoofer. Now the subwoofer das not work in Surround mode. I hat can I do? Don’t want to buy another amp. Das the surround work with a ikea sonos on my subwoofer? Thank you

[@todd.parker]

In both setups, you need to group your sounder room with the amp room and it should work

[@Zakw17]

@Todd Do I need to use the speaker or can I just use it as a sub tether? I have 2 Play Ones and a Beam currently

[@todd.parker]

Nope, you can disconnect the internal drivers and just use it as a way to feed a signal to a powered sub. I made some follow up videos that go in depth if interested

[@Zakw17]

@@todd.parker do you have a link? Sorry i think you helped me on Reddit as well. I just need it to register as a “sub” so it will play nice with my 5:1

[@todd.parker]

@@Zakw17 There isn’t really a way to register it as a true sub. You can group that “room” with your home theater but that’s it. There is an app (celltekk.de/sonosequencr/) that used to let you do that but I think Sonos made them remove it.

[@danieltholenaar5170]

Can you use this hack also in Sonos Home Cinema set-up for watching movies 5.1? Or is this set-up just for listening to music?

[@todd.parker]

This works with home theater for sure, I have videos on that setup

[@christopherb8602]

Hi, really quick question hopefully you see this! I have two Sonos Play:3 which I don't want to "hack". If I buy a Symfonisk and follow your guide, is there a way to make the Symfonisk non functional but just being used as the facilitator for the subwoofer? Essentially all I want is my Play:3s and the subwoofer emitting noise. Thank you!

[@todd.parker]

Yep, you can set it up as a “gateway” where you disconnect the internal drivers and use it to supply a signal to your sub. You then group that with your other speakers. See my hack guide video for wiring diagrams and details

[@christopherb8602]

@@todd.parker Very kind of you, thank you!

[@columbusontario]

Love this hack. Question. I have a pair of new play ones hooked up as a stereo pair. I have the same sub you use in this video. If I purchase the ikea speaker and disconnect the drivers in the IKEA. Can I still use the play ones in stereo pair? Will I simply group the stereo pair with the IKEA and just get the the sub functioning?

[@todd.parker]

Yes, that exactly it. Just disconnect the internal drivers and use it as a way to get a signal to your sub and group both rooms together.

[@rbrood267]

I connected an old Yamaha sub yst sw005 that I took from a surround set. I need to say. It works but still you hear the music trying to come out of the sub. That case it doesn’t go really deep in bass. Is that a subwoofer issue or just this hack ?

[@todd.parker]

Sounds like the subwoofer’s crossover is pretty high so you’re hearing more midbass. A home theater set won’t go very low either. A higher quality sun will sound better

[@rbrood267]

@@todd.parker Thank you for the reply. ill try to source a better one in the hope it'll get better. It was fun to make and i let you know the difference!

[@rbrood267]

@@todd.parker Hi. The sub i used (jbl 230) broke down. Guy in the store said that it might be because the diffent ohm values of both units. With an high low converter you can prevent that issue and only use the signal from the symfonisk and let the active woofer be the woofer.

[@todd.parker]

@@rbrood267 My hunch is the amp just died, it happens a lot in subs. I don't think there is anything out of the ordinary with the Sonos amps that could stress your sub. You can use the converter but the one I tested tended to be noisier than the built-in speaker inputs on my sub

[@rbrood267]

@@todd.parker but you havent choose the right sub ohm to match the ohm sonos speaker ?

[@ridanindustries2975]

if you use trueplay and tune the whole system can this actually be used for a full setup. I wonder if getting a sonos sounds bar and using the symfonisk-hack as the sub would make the ultimate condo 2.1 setup

[@todd.parker]

That’s how I had it set up and it sounds great! Trueplay is great

[@Drew18000]

Any idea of how to connect this to a 5.1 setup? I have the beam and two Sonos ones, can I add this as a sub or would it be a separate group?

[@todd.parker]

So do you have a Symfonisk wired to a powered sub as I showed? If so, you could consider using those as your rear channel in place of the 1’s. I don’t know how much low frequency signal is sent to the rears though. The other option is to just use a single Symfonisk as a sub (disconnect the internal drivers, just use to feed a sub. Then group it with the rest of your surround system.

[@peteostro]

@@todd.parker "group it with the rest of your surround system" is this possible? i have a beam and two play 3's in sonos's surround mode.

[@todd.parker]

Peteo yeah, for that situation, I’d use a single symfonisk with the internal drivers disconnected and the woofer signal sent to your sub. Then group it with the surround system and use that zone to adjust the bass volume.

[@leibenfelder]

You can it as a Sub with the App SonoSequencr

[@PETERCLIPS]

Hi wicked idea how do you no you have got the speaker phase correct as one manufacture + or - could be a different and the bass can cancel out

[@todd.parker]

You could always test the polarity both ways, either by reversing the wires going into the sub’s speaker input or by using the phase switch most subs have and seeing which sounds better.

[@bankruptsee]

Sonos is all about DSP though and the signal they send to the dedicated Sonos sub will be far different than what they send to other Sonos speakers such as Symfonisk, Play1, etc I would presume. I'm sure this will "work" but the experience would be lacking considering the Sonos system wouldn't be utilizing that Symfonisk as a sub unit in their software.

[@todd.parker]

Yep, I mention that. You get way more bass but the other speakers don’t adapt like they would with the real sub

[@hmrdk]

Can you do with one IKEA Sonos speaker with this hack as surround channel with a Beam without using the Symfonisk actually as a speaker? Or do you have to have two Symfonik speakers to allow that option in the Sonos app? I would prefer the sub to automatically be part of the Beam setup and be controlled with the volume of that as well. Thank you very much for a nice video.

[@todd.parker]

I believe that when you add rear channel speakers, you need to add a pair. With just one, you may have to use the grouped zone approach. Or, open the beam and jump a wire off the woofer to get a signal to your powered sub, no Symfonisk needed!

[@rajk909]

I have only a Beam and would like to add a powered sub using 1 IKEA speaker. Is this not possible and need 2 IKEA speakers? I found it hard to add just a single speaker as surround.

[@todd.parker]

Raj Khatri Sonos requires you add a matched pair for the surround channels. You can, however, open your Beam and jump a wire off a woofer there to get a signal to a powered sub, no surrounds needed.

[@rajk909]

@@todd.parker thanks for your reply. Do you have a video for opening a Beam to perform the steps? I just saw your other complete video and looks like the "Gateway" approach makes sense - using a single Symfonisk as a bridge to a powered sub and grouping the 2 locations together.

[@todd.parker]

Raj Khatri I haven’t seen a tear down of the Beam so you might have to take on the adventure

[@laurensdegraaff1725]

Excellent, I copied your setup without the subwoofer. With switches and terminals. So I have a reference 3a Master control connected to it. Sounds wonderfull after trueplay and add a little bass and chop off a little treble with the EQ. I can thow out my tube amplifier (almost). Unfortunately sonos doesn't play hi res content. Next step is to take out the crossover in de speaker (woofer is without crossover). Maybe that helps a bit

[@todd.parker]

Great to hear! You definitely want to remove any passive crossovers in the speakers for the best sound

[@Chi-townCollectorsCloset]

Just got symfonisk and sub, do I add speaker wire to the sub connectors in symfonisk or should I disconnect the symfonisk sub altogether and just run wires straight to polk audio sub?

[@todd.parker]

You have a few options. This video covers all the scenarios kzbin.info/www/bejne/b3PZoJlmnatngqc

[@chicoloco11]

Hey Great Job 👏🏻 Is this also a good solution for just audio ? I want more bass for my one and the five is to expansive.

[@todd.parker]

For sure.

[@patjelange5015]

Hello todd, I have a Sonos beam and 2x Sonos one set up as an home cinema set. Is it possible to add one ikea speaker to this set to connect my Harman kardon active sub? I understand this might work as a grouped set of speakers but does it also work when some speakers are set up as a stereo pair? Kind regards

[@todd.parker]

Yes, if you have the beam and the Sonos ones set up as a home theater room you can create another room with the Symfonisk and subwoofer then group them together. I cover this in detail in my wiring guide video

[@patjelange5015]

@@todd.parker thanks for your fast respond. Next question. I have a Harman kardon subwoofer I want to connect. But all I see is the “line in” and not the speaker level in you are talking about. Is this still possible to hook up. (Before I spend 99$ to buy the symfonisk speakers I want to know if it will work. It is the hkts210sub. Thank you for your time

[@todd.parker]

@@patjelange5015 in that case, you just need a converter to turn the amplified woofer power back to a signal. Kicker KISLOC 2-Channel K-Series Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_FGtUFb5BPMSDF

[@hanshinterschinken4195]

I just found this vid, it's old-ish, but maybe you still pick up on a question. The tweeter in the Symfonisk is cut off at a rather high point. That means the "sub" in the Symfomnisk is more of a mid-sub speaker. If you now feed that mid-sub signal into a real sub with it's own even lower crossover frequency, where do all of your mids go?? Does it not sound like something is missing? Do you not only get the low lows and the high highs and not much inbetween?

[@hanshinterschinken4195]

Aiiiiii, wrong thinking on my part! You do not cut off the mid-sub in the Symfonisk. It still plays along and gives you the mids.

[@todd.parker]

Yep, you can use the Symfonisk as a surround and as a way to feed a signal to a powered sub. The sound of the Symfonisk is unchanged in this setup

[@hanshinterschinken4195]

@@todd.parker Thanks! I confused myself here because I have hacked mine so I have two speakder level outputs (high and low) and each one has a switch which silences the internal speakers. So slightly different than yours. More like in your other video where you ONLY use external speakers.

[@christianbjerrehuus4714]

Hi Todd, this is a great video. Would this hack also work if i connected ceiling speakers to the hacked Symfonisk speaker, or is it needed to have the amplifier that the sub has?

[@danielpigott7342]

If I wanted to connect a set of B&W CCM 618 Loudspeakers through the Symfonisk, how would I do this? There is only one binding post and I know the symfonisk has two amps, one for the tweeter and one for the woofer. Help?

[@todd.parker]

Good question. On a ceiling/wall speaker there will be a passive crossover attached to the back. You want to trace the wires coming out of the crossover that lead to the woofer and tweeter and connect the Symfonisk amps to those wires so you’re circumventing the passive crossover and direct wiring. Those connections seem to be in the upper left of this photo - img.letgo.com/images/fd/b8/47/3b/fdb8473b965edaa3228bc098f24c360d.jpeg?impolicy=img_600_pwa

[@danielpigott7342]

@@todd.parker Thanks Todd! I will give that a try

[@CurranLong]

I live for this stuff

[@dustinandjulianlamontagne]

I have a jbl 2.1 sub that cant coonect to anything...only the original soundbar would this work for me?

[@todd.parker]

Those usually have oddball connectors so unless you can find a wiring diagram and are handy, no

[@mitchellstl]

I have a PolkAudio PSW110 that has high level in & out. Did you completely disconnect symfonisk's subwoofer when you put the binding posts in? And if I did a second set of binding posts, could I have the subwoofer's high level out come back to the symfonisk's subwoofer via the second set of posts. Or leave the symfonisk speaker disconnected? Or show it the way in your video shows it where it still goes to symfonisk's subwoofer and to the post? Sorry for the questions!

[@todd.parker]

If your sub has high level inputs and outputs then the best thing is to wire on set of binding posts from the internal woofer amp to the sub input. The second set could go from the sub output to the symfonisk woofer so it won’t work as hard.

[@todd.parker]

I am planning on making a video of this next. Might be another week or two though...

[@mtba102]

Do you connect the speaker as a sub through the Sonos app?

[@todd.parker]

The app never knows there’s a sub connected it uses the speaker. I have a bunch of videos on this that should answer all your questions

[@mtba102]

@@todd.parker awesome I’ll check them out. Thanks!

[@trymlarsen7190]

I am thinking of doing an Sonos Beam, plus two Symfonisk speakers for surround sound and finally your incredible subwoofer hack for complete 5.1. Is the sound coming out of the sub as good as something you would expect from like a cheap version of the Sonos Sub or is it just okay? And do you have any recommendations of subwoofers giving very good value for money? (Thinking a maximum of 200 dollars)

[@todd.parker]

The Sonos sub is really good but honestly a $150 powered sub with a Symfonisk sounds similar enough for most uses. The Polk subs are known to be pretty solid and a good value. This 10” is a steal at $99 - Polk Audio PSW10 10" Powered Subwoofer - Featuring High Current Amp and Low-Pass Filter | Up to 100 Watts | Big Bass at A Great Value | Easy Integration Home Theater Systems www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_reoVDbC3CKR89

[@avery41]

If you hook up the sub to one of the surrounds, wouldn't you be lacking a lot of the signal? I feel like you'd wanted to come from ideally the front or left or right channel, not the surrounds.

[@vanmoofer]

cool hack! Just wondering, couldn't you attach a wireless sender into the Symfonisk and a wireless receiver behind the sub?

[@todd.parker]

You certainly can, you’d just need to convert the amplified power back to a signal before plugging that into the transmitter. Wireless has some degree of lag but it will work

[@TheMoviewatcher5000]

Would this also be possible using the line in instead of speaker in ports?

[@todd.parker]

Yes, check out this video for details: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b3PZoJlmnatngqc

[@TheMoviewatcher5000]

@@todd.parker So basically, it's putting a converter between the sonos and the sub instead of a direct connection?

[@Profox77]

Great video about the sub hack Ik have a Beam connected to my tv. Can i connect a symfonik with the sub hack to the beam in a wat that i only use the sub function.......and that IT always works when i play music on the beam or watch tv ? Ik want to use a low sub to hide IT under my couch so i wont use te symfonik for " normale" use. Ik hope my question makes sense 😀 And secondly: if i use a sub.......should i change the equilaizer settings in the beam ( loundness of less bass) Third : should the sub woofer be passive or actieve (BTW sorry for the mistakes, my english isn't great :-)

[@todd.parker]

If you just want to connect the subwoofer, you can use the gateway technique. With this you disconnect all the speakers in the symphonisk and just use it as a way to get a signal to a powered subwoofer. The subwoofer must have a built-in amplifier for this to work. This will show up as a symfonisk and you can group that to the same room as your sound bar. You could reduce the bass to your sound bar once you have these grouped together. See this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b3PZoJlmnatngqc

[@Profox77]

@@todd.parker thnx i AM gonne give it a trie.....Just one more thing. Do i understand IT right that the sub wont sync with the beam when i use the TV remote for volume ( loundness)? If so.....i wont even start cause we dont use the Sonos App when we watch TV. I hope my question makes sense for you 😀

[@todd.parker]

@@Profox77 right, it will not sync because it’s essentially just another speaker grouped to your sound bar room

[@Profox77]

@@todd.parker i was afraid of that......butt maby in the future there.will be a next hack......in gonne search and try. Manny thanks.....youre.videos are.really great and clever

[@pannysat]

Do you need a third speaker? If I have two in pair, can a run a wire the left speaker and connect it to a powered subwoofer? Meaning the left speaker is still working while sending signal to the sub.

[@todd.parker]

Absolutely. That’s the setup I show in the video and the most cost effective way to go.

[@pannysat]

@@todd.parker hi Todd, I thought I would run this by you before I try it. I got a play5 gen 1 for cheap. It has a headphones out and a linein jack. I was able to connect the headphones out to the sub and it works great, but of course the speaker were muted. What do you think would happened if I used a splitter from the headphones out, back into the line in and to the sub? Good bye play5? Thanks in advance.

[@todd.parker]

Bill GMoris that’s a good idea but my hunch is that would add too much delay as the input would need to be re-digitized. Worry trying just to see

[@pannysat]

@@todd.parker Just an update. It did not work because I have to selet linein in the browser which disable any streaming. So I will be long for another symfonisk. Thanks for your time.

[@AlmerickSo]

Are you not missing any signals as the speaker will only receive single (L or R) channel signal? Also does this have any volume penalty on the speaker itself causing a mismatch on L & R?

[@todd.parker]

Most low end isn’t in stereo and it’s non directional so I think in general you won’t be missing much but you can run the output from both symfonisks into your sub if you want to be more even. I don’t hear any difference between the symfonisk attaches to the sub and the one that’s solo

[@extrachannel7457]

Does the symphocic still play? Or did you totally reroute the Bass to the sub to get more signal power By the way what would happen if I have 2 Sonos stereo pair and then add this symphonic hack-to-subwoofer. Do I still get to keep my stereo sonos speaker pair, and does adding the simphoc hack simply add a speaker as non stereo to my existing 2 sonos stereo pair ? Hell yeah my room will be booming now I can add like 2 of these hacks then :)

[@todd.parker]

I have them running full range but if your sub has speaker in/out that will cross them over

[@todd.parker]

Check out my wiring guide to see all the wiring scenarios...

[@mkwda]

I was thinking in a similar direction, though I’d prefer connecting the sub directly from the pre-amp to be able to use my sub’s integrated low-pass filter. Is there a way to connect anything at that level, or is is it a printed on electrical circuit?

[@todd.parker]

I think that would require a lot of electrical expertise since there aren’t line level outputs. Sonos wants to sell you a Connect for $350 if you want line outputs! Using the high level speaker outputs probably isn’t quite as clean but for a sub it sounds fine.

[@tartanguru]

You can use a speaker to line level converter. They are frequently used in car audio systems to drive subs from the normal head units. You can pick them up for less than £10 from Amazon

[@todd.parker]

Excellent point. I think I need to make a video of all the connection options

[@vdoedtr]

@@tartanguru hey ross, I just tried a line level converter using the same method that todd did, and I noticed that after a out 10 seconds of playing a song the entire unit would stop playing. Not sure if it's somehow shorting out or if there's too much load? Going to do more tests this weekend. Have you had any experience connecting a speaker to line level converter with the ikea speaker?

[@todd.parker]

vdoedtr Hmmm, that’s odd. I don’t see why this wouldn’t work but maybe the impedance of the converter wired in parallel to the woofer makes the impedance drop too low for the amp? You could try wiring these in series...

[@pascal8948]

I have a sub with only cinch connector, can i Connect the symfonisk via the cable and a Adapter to cinch to my sub? (Yamaha yst FSW150)

[@todd.parker]

Looks like it has a single RCA input. This o]would work if you got a speaker to signal converter.

[@pascal8948]

@@todd.parker okay i found a cable: speaker to cinch, on Amazon, should that work? By the way thanks for your reply!

[@todd.parker]

Just make sure it’s a converter with a box like this one. Kicker KISLOC 2-Channel K-Series Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HVQ14GBBZ9QNBAGC1S0Y

[@34Stony]

When you add it to the room it will not be seen as a base speaker, so do you give up on a front or rear speaker?

[@todd.parker]

This video should answer all your questions kzbin.info/www/bejne/b3PZoJlmnatngqc

[@jonathanvl1160]

Could this work if you connected the terminal wires to an RCA Line in instead? I have a passive subwoofer and an amplifier for it but the amplifier only takes RCA input/3.5mm AUX input.

[@todd.parker]

No, don't try that because it's way too much power to push into an RCA input. You can buy a converter like this to convert the signal down properly: amzn.to/36guWSE

[@BeyondTheLineProductions]

how to you do it with a sub with speaker out? Also would love to see the inside of how its wire. (super low tech over here)

[@todd.parker]

This video has you covered: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b3PZoJlmnatngqc

[@lietzandrew]

hey guys , wondering if you can add one ikea speaker with a sub and connect it to arc , two ones and sonos sub. now that the app allows a second sub , could I use the ikea speaker and sub as my second sub in the setting ?

[@todd.parker]

The app never see this as a sub, just as a symfonisk. You can connect a sub to a symfonisk as a new room and group it with your hone theater room.

[@lietzandrew]

@@todd.parker right , but didn't you say there is a delay ?

[@todd.parker]

There is a small delay but it may not be noticeable for those frequencies

[@osibig]

Hi Todd, great video!!! I have a sub with input and output terminals. Please can you confirm that I can connect the tweeter terminals from the Sonos to the input of the sub and the woofer terminals on the output back to the Sonos? Thx.

[@todd.parker]

Thanks. You can install two pairs of binding posts like I did but use the first pair to route the woofer’s amp output (disconnect the woofer) so you can connect it to the sub’s input and use the second binding post to connect the sub’s speaker output to the Symfonisk woofer. I think that’s what you were saying, just wanted to be clear so someone doesn’t hook their tweeters up. This is the “ideal” way to wire up a sub since it will remove the bass from the Symfonisk’s woofer for a cleaner sound but it’s more wiring.

[@billhurlburt4604]

@@todd.parker I am a bit confused about this setup. I have the one pair of binding posts connected to the Symfonisk woofer, and they connect to the High-Level Input on the Woofer (acoustic Audio Woofer). However, I am not sure what the second pair of binding posts should connect to within the Symfonisk? These would be the ones that are connected to the High-Level Out on the acoustic Audio Woofer?

[@todd.parker]

I have a second pair of posts to let me access the tweeter amp. If you have 2 pairs, I’d suggest using them to leverage the sub output so the woofer isn’t working as hard

[@billhurlburt4604]

@@todd.parker Sorry for the confusion with this. So... I route the Sub Woofers Hi-Level Output to the binding post that is attached to the tweeter amp within the Symfonisk and the Sub Woofer Hi Level Input to the binding post that is attached to the Woofer amp within the Symfonisk. Is that the correct Method?

[@todd.parker]

Bill Hurlburt No, you’d leave the tweeter out of the equation. Unplug the Symfonisks woofer terminals and connect them to the sub input. Then connect the sub’s speaker output to the Symfonisk’s woofer. You’re essentially placing the subwoofer between the symfonisks amp and the woofer so it filters out the bass going to the symfonisk woofer.

[@zenm8190]

Hi Todd, this is awesome, but is it possible to send the signal from the symfonisk into active (powered) speakers? I thought that sending this amplified signal into an active speaker would create terrible distortion because there are then two amps in series, but it seems like that is what you've done here with the sub?

[@todd.parker]

You’d need to either grab it before it’s amplified (which is very difficult) or convert the powered back down to a signal level. I tried the latter idea here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/h5m3ZJ1vlJuNn8U

[@bigbusa881]

Is there any delay in response with this?

[@todd.parker]

Since this happens in analog, there shouldn’t be any delay at all

[@jimgardner5129]

Hey. This was great. Thanks. Now if we can just get the Sonos sub hooked up to a non-Sonos audio system. Guess we need to work in the opposite direction and get a wired signal into it. While likely not an outstanding sub musically speaking, they certainly have a high WAF. I kinda like their looks, too.

[@todd.parker]

Hmmm yeah. It would be nice if that was an option

[@adamg5283]

Could you go a step further a strip the components from the IKEA speaker, mount within the sub. Using the power supply input from the sub, powering the Sonos signal which intern feeds the sub so you only need one power supply?

[@todd.parker]

I suppose you could, yes

[@DjFugazi]

It won't be long until someone makes a video of that and uploads it

[@adombrowski1]

Could be a good idea to use a line level adapter (speaker to RCA) so you're not drawing too much power from the Symfonisk amp, and possibly burning it out over time. Great idea and video!

[@todd.parker]

Maybe? I don’t know if those adapters soak up more of less power but it’s worth considering

[@MakotoHawkins]

Anthony, good point! Todd, are you wiring your sub in parallel to the SYMFONISK woofer? I saw in your other video that you installed a cut off switch for the internal speakers. Did you consider the amp's wattage and impedance in your process? Would love to know your thoughts here.

[@todd.parker]

Makoto Hawkins yes, I’m running the wire from the symfonisk to the sub in parallel. Since this is bi-amped, I’m less concerned about the impedance than I would be with a passive crossover because the speaker’s impedance would impact how hard the amp works but won’t cause the crossover to shift like it would with a passive setup. The only consideration I made for the switches was to make sure they were DC (many are AC). I just wired them to disconnect the negative when off.

[@sandz3639]

This is awesome. Confused about the impedance thing though. If you are just using the Symfonisks speaker wires for just signal, are you really changing the load in an active/powered sub situation? If it were passive, and you were using the Symfonisk amp to drive both I would agree it would be running in parallel....is this really a concern? To clarify, are you keeping both speakers in the Symfonisk connected in your current setup? Thanks!

[@todd.parker]

Some people seem concerned but I agree. I have to admit I don’t understand how the speaker level inputs work in term of how they impact the amp but I’ve been using an active sub hooked up for a few months to a pair of Symfonisks and all is well

[@sandz3639]

@@todd.parker are you using both speakers and running them into the LR LR high level inputs or just the low frequency speaker into the sub? Also, because I believe you are using the system as a 2.1 are they paired as a set and how do you have the eq set? (I dont have an iphone so I just have the bass/treble at 0).

[@todd.parker]

sand man I essentially have the wire from the internal woofer amp spliced off and going into the speaker inputs on the sub. Out of laziness i usually only hook up one channel to the sub but both would be slightly better to catch oddball bass effects panned to one side or the other but I’ve never noticed the difference with modern music. They are a stereo pair and I Trueplay them with the sub off or very low. If the sub is turned up too much, trueplay basically sees that as a room problem and eq’s the low end down so you’re fighting against it and never get deep, strong bass. If you only have EQ, I’d suggest playing with your crossover frequency and volume on the active sub rather than turning the bass up because that will result in cleaner, deeper bass. The bass controls boost too much mid bass imo.

[@kenmoelhoff3122]

I feel like I'm missing something here. Is there a Sonos Connect hooked to an amplifier that is driving the Symfonisk? I don't see how Sonos is being integrated into this system. Great video BTW.

[@thomasatkinson6892]

Ken Moelhoff the ikea speakers work with the Sonos ecosystem

[@todd.parker]

Yes, the symfonisk speakers are Sonos speakers. The guts are basically identical to Play1s but the lower price and easier to access cabinets make it fun to hack into.

[@Frankdubbsfpv]

awesome i knew this would be possible. This just confirms it for me. Great video.... i'm hoping to perform this to free up my Sonos Port for some more important work for it's price point. Thanks for the great video

[@todd.parker]

Glad it was helpful

[@jasonkilley]

Hey quick question: Does it not matter that you have both channels going into the sub? Do the low freq sounds typically not vary by channel?

[@todd.parker]

You can get away with just one channel in my opinion. Most bass is mixed across both channels. That’s honestly how I had mine set up and it sounded great

[@jasonkilley]

@@todd.parker awesome, thanks for the answer!

[@hungdoan7303]

Another question, do you set it (the modified ikea speaker and sub) as a speaker in a separate room, or in the same room (with others speaker)? I am not sure if my question is clear. Thanks again

[@todd.parker]

Not sure I understand

[@B.Ch3rry]

Would it be possible create a line out from speaker terminals to connect to any 3.5 mm jack?

[@todd.parker]

I don’t think so, not without a lot of work. Look into getting an old Play:5 or connect if you need that

[@Djones6487]

Can I add two subs off of one ikea speaker?

[@todd.parker]

Yep, the speaker level inputs on a powered subwoofer is high impedance so it basically pulls no power from the Symfonisk amp

[@jbravo14]

I was able to hook up a psw10 to my symfonisk. How do you tube this with true play? I tried disconnecting ako the speakers from the IKEA unit and just the sun but the Sonos application was not able tune with just the sub. Do you tube it with the speakers from the IKEA unit and the subwoofer attaches and then disconnect the IKEA speakers after the tuning?

[@todd.parker]

Good question. I’ve so far only used the symfonisks to add a sub for a 2.1 system or to bypass the internal drivers to bi-amp external speakers. I haven’t used the sub solo but I guess you’d need to try both ways and see which works best or if no Trueplay is best. My hunch is you’d want to tune with the speakers and sub turned to 69-60% volume of where you’d want it. Too much and Trueplay may be fighting against your sub. This way, you’re accounting for room response. Then disable the internal drivers.

[@bas040]

Does the internal dsp not mess up the Low end? Can’t imagine these tiny speakers will get any signal below ~50ish Hz.

[@todd.parker]

I assumed that too but you’ll see in my video that I was getting solid signal into the 20hz region. Odd they don’t do a high pass but it’s good for us!

[@JonMoralesLA]

It would be great to see the SYMFONISK guts paired with a 2 way speaker for an inexpensive way of making a superior sounding Sonos compatible speaker. I wonder what 2 way speakers out there are easy to access the innards?

[@todd.parker]

I’m working on a video showing that. Really any two way speaker would work. Just straight wire to the drivers to avoid the internal passive crossover and you’re good to go.

[@pontuslandin6883]

is it the SYMFONISK speaker that drives the SUB or is it the SUBs amp driving it when plugged in this way?

[@todd.parker]

Although the signal coming from the symfonisk is amplified, the sub is converting that down to a signal then re-amplifying it.

[@Ipeacocks]

Will this will be the same as Sonos Sub? I mean with Sonos app and group of speakers...

[@todd.parker]

No, in the app this will look like a Symfonisk speaker. Can’t trick the app

[@redpillpundit4708]

OUTSTANDING my friend, well done!!

[@todd.parker]

Appreciate it, thanks

[@seanmauricette2347]

Works great! I simplified it a bit by just running a wire into the Sonos speaker by drilling a hole and tapping into the leads that connected to the woofer. I do have a slight hum but it’s not too bad (going from positive and ground to rca jack). Adjusting the eq in Sonos helped too. I am still able to get a little bit of treble out of the Sonos which helps to balance the room a bit. Thanks for this hack.

[@todd.parker]

Are you connecting the amplified signal from the woofer terminal and just wiring it to an RCA plug? If so, I wouldn’t recommend doing that without adding a high level (amplified) to low level (signal) converter since that is too much power to plug into an input stage. E see my video on the DIY Sonos connect for info on that converter.

[@seanmauricette2347]

Todd Parker thanks for the quick reply. I’ll pick up the converter but have mainly 2 questions: I’m only interested in the low end frequencies so I’d only be connecting 3 wires from the 6. What do I do with the ground wire? I’m pretty clear on the positive negative hook up, but not the 3rd wire and where it goes. Or...is this a powered, neutral wire connect? Lol. Powered=positive and neutral = ground? Lol those terms confuse me. Please let me know. Thanks Todd

[@todd.parker]

Sean Mauricette If you are only connecting one symfonisk then yes, you’d only be using one of the channels on the converter (2 wires). There are two ground wires that may help with hum but aren’t required if there isn’t somewhere to run a ground wire. I’m Assuming you’re doing this because your sub does t have speaker inputs?

[@seanmauricette2347]

Todd Parker yes. That’s correct. It only has an RCA input. When i use it, it’s only on around 5-10% volume because it’s so powerful (as you mentioned). There is a low hum that’s only noticeable when the system is off. But other than that it sounds amazing! Is there an area inside the IKEA/Sonos speaker that I could attach the ground to?

[@todd.parker]

Sean Mauricette I’m glad this is working well for you. I replaced my Sonos sub with the symfonisk/sub combo and it sounds awesome. I’m not sure where to connect a ground inside but you can run a wire to the screw on an outlet cover usually. You might find the hum goes away one ever you’re using the converter

[@kaboutertje43865873]

i just added my rel quake 2 to the symfoniks, really easy and sounds fantastic now!! thanks!

[@todd.parker]

Awesome!

[@ThomSellink]

How did you connect it? Via speakon or lfe?

[@kaboutertje43865873]

@@ThomSellink speakon

[@ThomSellink]

Erik Thomassen Oke I’ll give it a try! Thanks

[@abineshadhikari5973]

@@todd.parker I have a kEF PSW 2150 which does not have SPEAKOn , have Line in Left and Right. so only way is to use RCA on Tpa3116? or can i connect it to Line in Left and Right?

[@Klinkertinlegs]

Is there a way to add aux input into the ikea speaker? I used to use it as my mac's speaker with airplay, but I'm on PC now and would love to have an aux input.

[@todd.parker]

I don’t think that would be possible without a lot of work and technical know how. If you want an aux in, look for the first gen play5’s

[@joefranco7151]

I did this with a Play:1, but disconnected the Play's woofer and instead ran wires out directly to a passive sub....and the Play can actually drive the sub. I'm not sure how, but its driving it pretty effectively and at impressive volumes.

[@todd.parker]

Yep, that will work too but the amps are a bit small to run it super loud. Glad it works for you

[@joefranco7151]

@@todd.parker I mean, you’d think…but I’m telling you it’s holding volume pretty well. I A/B tested vs an SVS SB-1000 and it’s matched it up to ~70% volume, which is pretty darn loud for the space!

[@todd.parker]

@@joefranco7151 that’s impressive

[@ApexFinX]

Do you know why when I start approaching half volume the Sonos cuts out? Almost like it’s too much for it and shuts down. But when I back the volume down it works again?

[@todd.parker]

I haven’t run into that and I’ve been running mine with a powered sub for a few months now, sometimes at very load level. So is the symfonisk speaker turning off? Are you trying to power a passive sub or does it have its own amp?

[@lukasfrisk-puggaard870]

Try putting a wireless charger on the inside of the Ikea Sonos speaker So you can lie the phone on top of it and then charge the phone

[@todd.parker]

Cool idea