Connect the Dots: Campus Boards and Where Climbers and Coaches are Going Wrong

[@abclimbing]

Love the content and how deep you always go.

[@PowerCompanyClimbing]

Thanks! The surface level view just doesn’t hold my attention long enough. 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@tomw3241]

thanks for bringing back some common sense here!

[@nataliafurina7314]

Many thanks for the reminder that we all should think a bit deeper!

[@johnwesely]

I always thought the power aspect of the campus board had more to do with applying force quickly with the fingers, and the pulling aspect was only important insofar as bigger/more explosive pulls require you to latch quicker with the fingers as a result.

[@PowerCompanyClimbing]

For smaller rungs (depending on the person of course) I agree. Bigger rungs I think the pull itself becomes the important element. Ultimately, the campus board can give you a range of both in a simple tool.

[@TristynButler]

I feel called out! Haha I sure do love myself some dot collecting. And while at times I think I do connect them, often, more often then not they just go in that endless shopping basket. Time to turn my brain on again and see what masterpiece connecting some of these dots will create! As always thanks for flipping concepts on there head!

[@PowerCompanyClimbing]

We all like collecting! It’s just plain better to see where they all lead.

[@adamhaas141]

I want to help connect dots to make sure they lead somewhere good.🙂 I love me some dot connecting, but admittedly, the over-collecting of them has become a minor vice of mine.😅 Time to get back to basics - quality, quality, quality - still, with a dash of quantity thrown in as grist for the mill, of course.😀 On a side note, I feel the need to echo Kris's shout-out to Eric Hörst. At time when information was genuinely sparse, he stepped up to the plate and got the ball rolling.🙏 That for which I am thankful extends far beyond simply climbing rocks.😉 Let's go!

[@davidbecker54]

I think Dave Macleod is a great example of NOT collecting dots (granted he does a lot of nutrition experiments). He has been using the SAME hangboard protocol for like 20 years!

[@PowerCompanyClimbing]

Absolutely!

[@cornelus9979]

Partiall disagreement: science experiment is about reducing variables, ideally leaving one, and seeing how changes in that one variable impacts the outcome. In that model, power is force + velocity! It is good to know weather campus training improves climbers power, or is it improving something else. Other factors improving climbing - those are the other dots. How to climb better - that's pooling all the knowledge alltogether, applaying science into practice, thats "connecting the dots". Full agreement, the last part is the tricky one...

[@PowerCompanyClimbing]

Power is force x velocity, not force + velocity. But functional power is much more.

[@mikewentworth4968]

Am I the only one who felt that Tyler Nelson got called out by this video?

[@PowerCompanyClimbing]

Honestly it’s more about all of us just blindly believing whatever is created for clicks and likes on the internet. That includes anything I say as well, but some coaches definitely try harder to confirm and verify before presenting as hard fact.

[@johnwesely]

Lawn Dart going hard with the acting on this one.

[@PowerCompanyClimbing]

She had to be convinced.

[@markjokinen]

imo you didn't really connect the dots in this one

[@PowerCompanyClimbing]

Which dots did I not connect?

[@Moache]

Takeaway from this video: campus board = bad

[@PowerCompanyClimbing]

Incorrect.